That obviously doesn't confer expert status on you or your profession, but even K&S filters use oil and sell a special filter oil (automotive performance applications). It's the best combination of the old oil bath air cleaner and the modern kind with a foam and/or paper element. Did you know older engines used an oil bath type?
@@Hjerte_Verke Did you know they also came with a rope and wooden handle with which to start the motor. Quit acting all high and mighty. Basically calling us stupid/ignorant. That attitude is just not warranted.
I always put a few spots of oil on them then mashed them almost flat on a rag to get the oil throughout the foam filter medium, and get rid of any excess oil. When they got dirty I washed them in Tide powdered laundry detergent, oiled it, smashed 'em on a rag, and stuck them back on the machines.
I have been using motocross air filter oil on everything from rc cars to dirt bikes or anything with a foam filter. Just soak it in oil, squeeze out the excess and let it sit overnight to get any remaining oil out. I like the motocross oil because it’s extra sticky and captures all the dust. And clean the foam in hot soapy water. It is more expensive but a lot better!
Back in the 1930s, 40s and 50s cars had oil bath air filters, that looked like a giant Brillo pad sitting in a pot of oil with a lid that fit with an opening around it to allow the air to get into the filter through the oily brlillo pad media and then on down into the carburetor. They kept the bigger rocks out of the engine.
Dawn is the best for washing prefilters. Rinse well, squeeze out and dry on the boiler or on the floor in front of your fridge where the warm air vents out, or outside in the sun on the deck railing.
there are lots of bad advice out there....lol... how can oiling cause problems..if over oiled it will foul a plug at worst...but soon clear up and be fine... no oil can destroy an engine quicker
I never oiled my prefilters, figgered they were just to keep out the large chunks of stuff and the regular air filter would get the rest but now that I think about it being able to wash the prefilter will help the disposable part last longer. Oh yeah, quick tip here: you can go to a fabric store and bulk buy open cell foam to make your own air filters. I've been using a couple yards of it for many years now for replacements.
Also it is important to change the air filter because a very dirty one will cause performance issues with the engine making it run slower which has happened to a mower that we own it was running quieter than normal and I thought this is an air filter problem and it turned out that I was right. I looked up on how to oil air filters and if you need to and I found my information very quickly and it was nice to see Taryl go over this as well.
I keep an extra around to replace and put mower back in service immediately ...clean old one let dry...oil and put in sandwich bag ready to go for next change.....it dosent take but a few minutes.....so unless prefilters are really cheap.....cheaper just to clean...especially if your lawn is not that great and you have dusty areas....Im lazy and just mulch my leaves instead of raking...try to do soon after a rain but sometimes have to do it when its dry and dusty....especially natural areas i cut 2-3 times a year...dont like them getting to natural 😁
Another great informative video, I agree with some of the others that recommend bacon grease, it would smell so good while you are oiling the filter:) Thanks for all your work, you guys rock!
I think Taryl may have pre oiled his hair with bacon fat. That's why Elkskins hangs around there so much. There's stuff called foam air filter oil, Belray makes it, that is made for those pre filters and washes out easy. K&N makes some too. That engine oil might be difficult to get out of the filter just like bacon grease would be hard to get out of Taryls hair.
You have brought up a valuable and money saving revelation. For years, and even though I have lots of automotive experience, I have serviced our dirt bike and UTV air and vent filters with JP Aerosol, which is recommended by the bike shops and is expensive. In reality, using conventional motor oil is just as effective however because the serviceable filters are rigid, I will now use a pump spray applicator. This will save a lot of money.
That's on you for wasting money on a "specialized" product instead of using something way cheaper that does the same thing. I actually read motorcycle manuals and they have said to use fresh motor oil for as long as I can remember. I'm sure "bike shops" recommend a lot of things to garner a sale, it's all about the money 💵
I took my foam filter out of my 1972 MTD rototiller (was with my grandfather when he purchased it) for the first time since it was purchased, it fell apart in my hands, should have just left it for another 50 years. Now I have to find a new one, if they still make it. Oh it was oiled and more dirt than filter. It might run better with a new filter,
Great information video, Taryl. I always have used common sense & oiled the foam filters, squeezed out the excess oil. I also clean & reuse the filter. With you having the business that you have, at first you were probably shocked when a customer would bring in lawn equipment, they didn’t do any maintenance but now you’re probably not. The ones that don’t maintain their lawn equipment are probably the same ones who don’t maintain their vehicles. Keep’m coming
Yes,I wash mine out with dishwashing liquid, let it dry out, stick it into a small bucket then soak it with engine oil then I wring it out as per Briggs and Strattons service manual instructions then I refit the filter. onto my 3 horsepower Briggs and Stratton powered mower !
You're automatically elevated to genius status in the comments section. So many are bewildered that you would oil an air filter (and leave the oil filter dry lol).
Lot of people don’t realize the older vehicles pre 60’s didn’t come with paper filters. They relied on oil alone to do the filtering. Most had canisters with a Brillo looking media that the oil would circulate through before going into intake. The dirt would accumulate at the bottom of the oil reservoir and would need changing regularly
No need to buy a new foam filter or pre-filter, you can hand WASH them with mild detergent or dish soap, let air dry and then re-oil. This is stated in many a Briggs-Honda-Clone engine manual
You can wash them... for a while. Eventually they fall apart. They are cheap enough that it makes sense to replace them if you value your time. Either way, any maintenance is better than no maintenance.
Wash them in turps, not petrol then wash the turps out with soapy water and rinse. Dry in the sun thoroughly. Don’t over service them and with motor bikes use some grease on the sealing surface at the front of the air box to make doubly sure no dust gets through. The turps will wash the grease seal off too. You can wash a good spare parts, not after market, filter many times.
This was great, Taryl. But it would also have been helpful to show a dirty filter being cleaned before re-oiling it. No one needs to find or buy separate pre-filters if they just see how easy it is to clean the one they have (regularly) with soap & hot water ~ Thanks, always good viewing 👍 👍 👍
Use fill a small bucket with hot water and liquid dish soap (i.e. the stuff they use to clean the ducks when an oil tanker spills). Submerge the filter and squeeze it/swish it until it isn't oily anymore.
I still have both the original foam filters for my 2 1973 and 74 Sears ST 16s, I oil both of them, they are great for plowing snow, I have all the attachments, things are tanks.
Thanks for the info. I have not been oiling my pre-filter. Does seem like some oil would transfer to the paper filter, no matter how much you blot it. Maybe that doesn't matter?
I had a yamaha race maual when i was a kid, the way they taught me to clean the filter was mix some gas and oil into a container (coffee tin for me), rinse and squeeze excess, dont wring it, then let sit outside in the sun until fuel evaporates. 👍🏼
My Husky BT350 filter gets oiled. When dirty, washed with dish washing solution. Dry and use an old 2cycle oil mix bottle that has been emptied. I can always get enough drops out to lube the filter and boom, good to go again :)
This reminded me of time I helped a lady start her Yugo at night. I thought the choke was stuck, when I took off the air cleaner a swimming pool of oil saturated the paper filter. Well it's not good to run your Yugo without one, I told her it would get her home. It started and then gave a free light show from the cracked ignition wires and off she went.
Most people, like 99 9/10 % don't and you never hear of problems e/ piston rings wearing out. Only a commercial mower will EVER need a filter. It's cheap for the mgr to include on a new build and it serves as a fire suppressor. But most people are conditioned to believe it's even needed. Taryl: What will the "dirt" hurt? Be specific. Rings. When was the last time you saw piston rings wearing out? NEVER. The rest of the mower will wear or rust out 1st.
You know how good a channel is, when you watch the video all the way through to the end and you not only know the topic, but you've been doing it for 45 years already! Great channel great guys with dang good videos! Merry Christmas Taryl and all the grass rats! P.S. Taryl do you have a video on refueling your mower in the middle of a cut? The fire department had to come and put out my brother in laws! No one got hurt and I couldn't stop laughing! Neither could the neighbors! By the way.... He's been doing it for 45 years also! Lol. Later. J Pol.
I have a bottle or 2 of K&N filter oil for my car and truck. I would think a light spritz of that on my mower filter would work well and minimize excess. I might try that in the spring.
A dirty air filter will limit the amount of of air going into the carbatrator thus making it run rich.Fouls your plugs.The cold air intake on my truck is pre-oiled because it's not a completely sealed unit but traps the excessive dirt.If I over oil it, it screws up the MAF and wants to lean the motor out.
All right so you said I could use any kind of oil and my prefilter is very thin for my Husqvarna. So I sprayed with Pam and then squeeze it with the paper towel
I don’t oil the foam wrapped filter on my Briggs Intek, however that filter and foam are cleaned and blown out everytime that mower leaves the garage. My filters have held up well and had a long life for doing this. I know some videos are done for folks that largely do not routinely maintain their equipment. Nothing I enjoy better than to trigger trolls and watch them loose they’re _ _ _ _ when someone does something different than them 😁 For me I could care less what others do, knock yourself out 👏👏👏
You're supposed to oil it so you are mistaken, and doing it the right way means you don't have to "blow out the air filter" each and every time, but you do you. However, it doesn't matter so much if the engine uses a conventional paper filter along with the foam pre-filter. You over-maintain your equipment because you failed to read the manual 🤡
Your right about getting a new pre filter and throwing the old one away normally the foam gets old and starts to fall apart just when you don't realise then when you check it to wash it out it's half gone or sucked around the main filter , good airflow =power and economy filters are cheap engines are not ! New filters are cheap insurance ,
Back 40 years ago I raced motorcycles I squeeze to much oil out of my filter an after the race I checked the filter an it sucked dirt because of it. I would also add grease the mating surfaces of the air box.
Chainsaw filters get really dirty because of the sawdust, oil and dirt, but they do not have pre filters to oil. I have to check and clean them every day I use them, otherwise I have starting issues if they get caked with dirt.
I raced Dirt Bikes for 15 years...we use a better oil option. Foam Air Filter oil that starts off liquidy then gets sticky/ gummy and will hold up better in heat or just normal as regular oil will drip downwards and the Dirt Bike products ( they will say they setup sticky - some are no better than regular oil )... the filter will stay better for you longer if you use this type of oil..and cleaning is the same... i usually use a solvent tjen warm regular soapy water to finish the cleaning ( dishwashing detergent is all you need ) ..rinse it in plain water....squeeze it gently to get the water out and let it dry...i usually have an extra filter so one is ready to use and one gets cleaned etc... We stopped using regular oil in the 1970's.... they said plain oil too but it is not the best option..the better oil isn't expensive and will last many years too...
You're not supposed to saturate the filter in the oil, so there's no dripping. I think you're just overthinking the issue---BUT you are a racer and whatever the budget allows, you can justify and racing has its own issues. Not sure I'd want stickier as that sounds like it would clog in minutes; whatever. For us regular dirt bike trail runners, regular motor oil works splendidly.
@@Hjerte_Verke nope...been a mechanic fir 50 plus years....and it isn't over oiled if done correctly..it coats it but breathes..and over thinking isn't what i do ... i raced pro and know alot about what i talk about.... i use it on my garden tractors...regular oil will flow down and then your filter has no oil in top part..oil is the fine filter on a foam filter....without oil it is not working properly - why they tell you to oil it....i do squeeze out excess oil...but you learn to add it slowly and cover the filter....if it's too hard to read ?? probably can't understand why we use it..only idiots use a plain oil on foam....but hey? at least oil it....
@@Hjerte_Verke the reason it sets up sticky is it will not run off ..even lightly oiled filters will start losing the oil .the sticky part of the setup keeps it suspended on the filter to continue doing the job ..to keep dirt out of your engine..as to affordability? it isn't expensive...saves rebuilds...is pennies to use....you are over thinking this...lol
@@Hjerte_Verke any dirt bike rider nerfs to learn tips..ignorance isn't being smart..the oil is an improved product anyone can use..and should....how often do you clean your filter???
@@Hjerte_Verke the sticky part also grabs the dirt better than plain old oil.... before i raced..i rode trails..we all did that..racing isn't high tech till you get into bigger races etc.... you spend money wisely or you pay more by bad maintenance .... anyways my tip was for those interested in different options only...not an order....i give help for Free..like i did when i raced....
Proper filter oil won’t drain out of the filter like engine oil will. It is very sticky and stays there. Some is very thin till it is exposed to air to make it easier to squeeze into the foam then becomes quite viscous.
Good video Taryl, but I'm torn about whether to oil or not. My B&S manual says 'not' to oil the pre-filter, which is exactly like the last filter you showed in this video. Will there be any harm if I do oil the pre-filter? Is B&S statement 'not' to oil it because they want my engine to wear out sooner so they can sell more? Thanks.
This is how I have always done my filters. I like to use the two stroke oil because its normally coloured oil eg red or blue for the two brands I use. The colour in the oil means its easy to see if the filter is fully oiled or if it needs more. I don't agree with throwing out the filters when dirty given its easy to wash them out with dishwashing liquid and then after drying reoil them. We are too wasteful and throwing still good foam filters out is adding to that waste.
Redmax says not to oil their foam pre-filters, but I do anyway. Inside of my filter housing stay cleaner using oil, and my trimmers last quite a few commercial years.
Worsh it it in awesome degreaser. Hose it. Step on it. Squeeze the water out. If you have 2, you can use the other one while it dries. (Quote the elkskins) Before he eats your dinner
If you take the time and read your owners manual, it will explain this exact situation. I have a 2009 JD X-320, 22HP Kawasaki engine with 700hrs. on it and it runs the same as when new. Typically it takes 1 or 2 Oz oil. for this. The pre- cleaner for X series is about 6 dollars. I change it after each week. The actual air cleaner is still like new. If u oil it, it won't run correctly. I did what he said , buy a couple extra.
I have never oiled a foam filter… didn’t think it was necessary? How would anything get through that much dense foam? I just take em out and clean them off after every use
Read the manual? It's just a light amount of oil, enough to make it moist not dripping wet ...and yes the performance is still there. Tons of motorcycles and performance cars (see K&N filters) use oiled air filters. K&N is the king of reusable air filters.
Yes obviously, i have a k&n filter in my truck but honestly they don’t perform as well in dusty environments than just the plane paper filters do… the reason they claim to increase Power is cuz they have less restriction. And back to the point they are built much differently than a sponge…
YES. Over and over, as long as you want. The old L-head manuals state the same thing, but nowadays they want to sell more parts so that info might be left out
I never even thought of oiling the foam pre filters. Is this recommended by the manufacturers? I liked the old Briggs foam filters. Cheap, re-usable and effective.
@@Hjerte_Verke The mowers I have had the privilege to own for the past 60 years did not come with manuals. Most came with a carburetor but all of them.
I ride and race dirt bikes. I don't 'clean my filter after every ride' like some say to do. A slightly dirty filter filters better than a clean one. I love saying that because guys get all pissy before they think about it. 😉 However, after just a few trips around my yard my lawn tractor air filter is beyond nasty! I reuse the paper filter for a year or more and replace the foam pre filter when it first starts to deteriorate.
I don't use a straight oil to oil filters. Straight oil is often to restrictive. I use a 50- 50 mix of oil and gas. This more easily penetrates the foam for complete saturation. When you squeeze out the foam the oil sticks to the foam and the gas doesn't. I also let it set and air out. The gas evaporates out of the foam. I tried a K&N filter and used the K&N cleaner and oil. These came in spray cans. Real easy to over oil. When you spray it on do so lightly. You want to barely coat the foam. If you see it it's too much. 5:26
Just use a lighter oil dude, and not so much. That gas and oil sounds a bit overcomplicated. Any oil can work such as a lighter machine oil, the manufacturer just recommends motor oil as it is always at hand. However, I use the recommended amount and never have a problem
Won't the oil effect how much air is going through the filter? What if your motor didn't have a filter that needs to be pre-lubed, you oil it and now the carb is going to run too rich? Less air flow. I will try to oil my next filter and see if there is a differance.
It's just a light amount of oil; if it is dripping off you used too much. The oil is only there to collect, trap and isolate dirt particles. If your engine runs richer, you can lean the mixture but that's a given as the A/F mixture is always adjusted with the air cleaner installed.
Pre-filters that come in contact with paper filters should not be oiled, they are designed to catch leaves and grass, not necessarily dirt . Some cartridge type filters have a metal mesh screen around them, the pre-filters covering them should be oiled. Oil should never come in contact with the paper filter, it will stop air flow.
My KROLLER engine's filter uses those foam prefilters over a pleated paper filter. By the end of the summer there's oil all around the CARBATRATOR and manifold. Is this normal or maybe I'm using too much oil?
I have a Kroller motor in my 2000 Toro wheelhorse 268 Hydro & the dealer said to not even worry about oiling the prefilter, just wash it out every season. I should have probably listened to my gut instincts. Then again the main filter doesn't appear to be dirty when I look at it or hold it up to the light?¿
I think I had PJ1 filter oil, otherwise I used yamalube. But on dirtbikes I cleaned the filter every 2 or 3 hours. My lawn equipment get the filter changed every 10 years..LOL
The foam is a labyrinth , a maze. The dirt has to make sharp turns as it goes through the foam and it sticks to the oil. There should only be enough oil to coat the tiny strands that make up the foam. You are not trying to fill the voids with oil. Think of an oil saturated rope. - I wrap the freshly oiled foam with a paper towel and squeeze the filter. This will force the excess oil out into the paper towel. Do NOT wring the foam. This will tear the fibers.
Oiling the filter when oil isn't call for by the manufacturer would restrict airflow and act like a choke. You would be running too rich. OTOH not oiling it when you are supposed to would have you running too lean. 2:56 Vegetable oil in contact with air will oxidize and polymerize due to unsaturations in the molecules, and will become hard and rubbery. The intake has a lot of air going through it, so I would expect the filter to harden and take on a rancid smell if you use vegetable oil.
Taryl , it would be nice if he’d make a video on a Toro two-stroke, snowthrower carburetor, rebuild and adjustment model 38538 just saying since it’s winter time.
@@ENZIO90 I don't think he's a regular viewer--that comment went over his head. Not sure on the spelling so Taryl needs a sticker for it so we will know a la "Breaks & Scrap'em" 😀
For myself when it comes to oiling filters I'm a little more messy. You take a pan of some sort that you won't mind getting oil in then you put the filter in and pour in the oil, I usually just go for 30 weight non detergent oil since that's what's already in any small engine I'm working with. Then I put on some sort of rubber gloves and get to work making sure the filter has soaked in a good amount of oil, then I wring it some (taking care to not tear the filter) to get out whatever oil I can so it's just damp with oil and not soaked. I just do it this way because it's how I was taught. EDIT: One thing, be careful about having people use any old oil, there are people out there who would use vegetable oil and might be surprised when their filter gets filled with mold.
You complicate simple matters. I just add oil directly to the filter then squish it around--it's not rocket science and we're not working on the Space Shuttle.
You're the only person that's ever mentioned this out of all these years that I've been watching lawncare videos on the tube. Thank you
I leave my air filters in the original plastic wrap…that way they won’t get full of dust and grass clippings.
HA! Found the Funny Guy !
Don't laugh, I've seen it done on car oil filters.
@@mrbrown6421I have to.. Just Rolled In showed it on his videos.
Long time automotive mechanic here, I didn’t know the pre-filters needed to be oiled. Good information as always, thanks Taryl.
That obviously doesn't confer expert status on you or your profession, but even K&S filters use oil and sell a special filter oil (automotive performance applications). It's the best combination of the old oil bath air cleaner and the modern kind with a foam and/or paper element. Did you know older engines used an oil bath type?
@@Hjerte_Verke Did you know they also came with a rope and wooden handle with which to start the motor.
Quit acting all high and mighty. Basically calling us stupid/ignorant. That attitude is just not warranted.
Manual for tecumseh vtwin specifically says not to oil pre-filter. No idea why.
@@gadasavideos8564So does the manual for the Kawasaki V-twin FR and FS series. Specifically states do not oil pre filter.
@@scottp2462 don't know about kawasaki
Briggs used to emboss air filter instructions on the lid of the filter. Wash and re-oil every 25 hours.
I always put a few spots of oil on them then mashed them almost flat on a rag to get the oil throughout the foam filter medium, and get rid of any excess oil. When they got dirty I washed them in Tide powdered laundry detergent, oiled it, smashed 'em on a rag, and stuck them back on the machines.
I have been using motocross air filter oil on everything from rc cars to dirt bikes or anything with a foam filter. Just soak it in oil, squeeze out the excess and let it sit overnight to get any remaining oil out. I like the motocross oil because it’s extra sticky and captures all the dust. And clean the foam in hot soapy water. It is more expensive but a lot better!
I always wondered if I used too much or too little! Great video idea👍🏾
Back in the 1930s, 40s and 50s cars had oil bath air filters, that looked like a giant Brillo pad sitting in a pot of oil with a lid that fit with an opening around it to allow the air to get into the filter through the oily brlillo pad media and then on down into the carburetor. They kept the bigger rocks out of the engine.
They kept Everything but Air out of the engine.
My 1967 Ford 3000 tractor has an oil bath air filter. That oil can get dirty but the filter above it was always clean.
Oil bath filters were the best air filters ever made. The Army still used them in the 70's.
All good til you get a Diesel Runaway. Happened to me on maneuvres with a Sherman Tank.@@steveashcraft718
Just can't use them on modern engines because the oil messes with the MAF sensor
When I worked for a landscaping company, we never oiled are air filters. Never knew you had to do that. But we did blow them out often.
2175 will tell you that you are stupid and you should read the manual.
As for me, I didn't know either.
When you pre oil make sure you squeeze out the extra oil or you will soak you paper. Good tip Taryl
My old Gravely has an oil bath air filter.
Dawn is the best for washing prefilters. Rinse well, squeeze out and dry on the boiler or on the floor in front of your fridge where the warm air vents out, or outside in the sun on the deck railing.
That's what the 5 gallon bucket of old gas is for 😉
AWESOME! I was taught that oiling the foam restricted air intake and could prematurely damage an engine. Thanks so much!
there are lots of bad advice out there....lol... how can oiling cause problems..if over oiled it will foul a plug at worst...but soon clear up and be fine... no oil can destroy an engine quicker
it isn't saturated, just damp with oil.
I never oiled my prefilters, figgered they were just to keep out the large chunks of stuff and the regular air filter would get the rest but now that I think about it being able to wash the prefilter will help the disposable part last longer. Oh yeah, quick tip here: you can go to a fabric store and bulk buy open cell foam to make your own air filters. I've been using a couple yards of it for many years now for replacements.
I am sure 2426 will tell you all the pitfalls of your folly.
Of course, I've done the same thing.
You can also clean and re-oil your prefilters.
Facts. I guess Taryl is once a salesman and always a salesman. Much easier to wash, rinse, dry and re-oil
Also it is important to change the air filter because a very dirty one will cause performance issues with the engine making it run slower which has happened to a mower that we own it was running quieter than normal and I thought this is an air filter problem and it turned out that I was right. I looked up on how to oil air filters and if you need to and I found my information very quickly and it was nice to see Taryl go over this as well.
Whatever oil you already have that you put in your lawn mower or small engine just use that on the filter that keeps things simple
Thanks Taryl. I just changed my filter and need to oil my pre filter. Thanks for the pro tip!!
Eyri
I keep an extra around to replace and put mower back in service immediately ...clean old one let dry...oil and put in sandwich bag ready to go for next change.....it dosent take but a few minutes.....so unless prefilters are really cheap.....cheaper just to clean...especially if your lawn is not that great and you have dusty areas....Im lazy and just mulch my leaves instead of raking...try to do soon after a rain but sometimes have to do it when its dry and dusty....especially natural areas i cut 2-3 times a year...dont like them getting to natural 😁
Another great informative video, I agree with some of the others that recommend bacon grease, it would smell so good while you are oiling the filter:) Thanks for all your work, you guys rock!
I think Taryl may have pre oiled his hair with bacon fat. That's why Elkskins hangs around there so much. There's stuff called foam air filter oil, Belray makes it, that is made for those pre filters and washes out easy. K&N makes some too. That engine oil might be difficult to get out of the filter just like bacon grease would be hard to get out of Taryls hair.
You have brought up a valuable and money saving revelation. For years, and even though I have lots of automotive experience, I have serviced our dirt bike and UTV air and vent filters with JP Aerosol, which is recommended by the bike shops and is expensive. In reality, using conventional motor oil is just as effective however because the serviceable filters are rigid, I will now use a pump spray applicator. This will save a lot of money.
That's on you for wasting money on a "specialized" product instead of using something way cheaper that does the same thing. I actually read motorcycle manuals and they have said to use fresh motor oil for as long as I can remember. I'm sure "bike shops" recommend a lot of things to garner a sale, it's all about the money 💵
@@Hjerte_Verke I'm so old ... and YOU are so smart. Thank GOD we have millennial morons like you to correct our aged white male mistakes.
I took my foam filter out of my 1972 MTD rototiller (was with my grandfather when he purchased it) for the first time since it was purchased, it fell apart in my hands, should have just left it for another 50 years. Now I have to find a new one, if they still make it. Oh it was oiled and more dirt than filter. It might run better with a new filter,
Awesome video, Taryl. Thanks!!! Showed this to my young grandson, he now understands about air filter maintenance. Thank you!!! Merry Christmas!!!
Great information video, Taryl. I always have used common sense & oiled the foam filters, squeezed out the excess oil. I also clean & reuse the filter. With you having the business that you have, at first you were probably shocked when a customer would bring in lawn equipment, they didn’t do any maintenance but now you’re probably not. The ones that don’t maintain their lawn equipment are probably the same ones who don’t maintain their vehicles. Keep’m coming
Yes,I wash mine out with dishwashing liquid, let it dry out, stick it into a small bucket then soak it with engine oil then I wring it out as per Briggs and Strattons service manual instructions then I refit the filter. onto my 3 horsepower Briggs and Stratton powered mower !
You're automatically elevated to genius status in the comments section. So many are bewildered that you would oil an air filter (and leave the oil filter dry lol).
Lot of people don’t realize the older vehicles pre 60’s didn’t come with paper filters. They relied on oil alone to do the filtering. Most had canisters with a Brillo looking media that the oil would circulate through before going into intake. The dirt would accumulate at the bottom of the oil reservoir and would need changing regularly
Lots of older tractors like the Ford N-series used the oil bath method.
No need to buy a new foam filter or pre-filter, you can hand WASH them with mild detergent or dish soap, let air dry and then re-oil. This is stated in many a Briggs-Honda-Clone engine manual
You can wash them... for a while. Eventually they fall apart. They are cheap enough that it makes sense to replace them if you value your time. Either way, any maintenance is better than no maintenance.
Wash them in turps, not petrol then wash the turps out with soapy water and rinse. Dry in the sun thoroughly. Don’t over service them and with motor bikes use some grease on the sealing surface at the front of the air box to make doubly sure no dust gets through. The turps will wash the grease seal off too. You can wash a good spare parts, not after market, filter many times.
This was great, Taryl. But it would also have been helpful to show a dirty filter being cleaned before re-oiling it. No one needs to find or buy separate pre-filters if they just see how easy it is to clean the one they have (regularly) with soap & hot water ~
Thanks, always good viewing 👍 👍 👍
Use fill a small bucket with hot water and liquid dish soap (i.e. the stuff they use to clean the ducks when an oil tanker spills). Submerge the filter and squeeze it/swish it until it isn't oily anymore.
I still have both the original foam filters for my 2 1973 and 74 Sears ST 16s, I oil both of them, they are great for plowing snow, I have all the attachments, things are tanks.
Can’t imagine a foam pre filter is still good from 1973
Thanks for the info. I have not been oiling my pre-filter. Does seem like some oil would transfer to the paper filter, no matter how much you blot it. Maybe that doesn't matter?
I had a yamaha race maual when i was a kid, the way they taught me to clean the filter was mix some gas and oil into a container (coffee tin for me), rinse and squeeze excess, dont wring it, then let sit outside in the sun until fuel evaporates. 👍🏼
My Husky BT350 filter gets oiled. When dirty, washed with dish washing solution. Dry and use an old 2cycle oil mix bottle that has been emptied. I can always get enough drops out to lube the filter and boom, good to go again :)
This reminded me of time I helped a lady start her Yugo at night. I thought the choke was stuck, when I took off the air cleaner a swimming pool of oil saturated the paper filter. Well it's not good to run your Yugo without one, I told her it would get her home. It started and then gave a free light show from the cracked ignition wires and off she went.
I usually Warsh those Air filters if they are in good shape, using Dawn dish soap cuts that Oil very nicely.
Most people, like 99 9/10 % don't and you never hear of problems e/ piston rings wearing out. Only a commercial mower will EVER need a filter. It's cheap for the mgr to include on a new build and it serves as a fire suppressor. But most people are conditioned to believe it's even needed. Taryl: What will the "dirt" hurt? Be specific. Rings. When was the last time you saw piston rings wearing out? NEVER. The rest of the mower will wear or rust out 1st.
Best show on TH-cam
I've got a qt. of Bel-Ray air filter oil but use 30w non-detergent on pre filter because its easier to clean in parts washer.
You know how good a channel is, when you watch the video all the way through to the end and you not only know the topic, but you've been doing it for 45 years already! Great channel great guys with dang good videos! Merry Christmas Taryl and all the grass rats! P.S. Taryl do you have a video on refueling your mower in the middle of a cut? The fire department had to come and put out my brother in laws! No one got hurt and I couldn't stop laughing! Neither could the neighbors! By the way.... He's been doing it for 45 years also! Lol. Later. J Pol.
I have a bottle or 2 of K&N filter oil for my car and truck. I would think a light spritz of that on my mower filter would work well and minimize excess. I might try that in the spring.
A down side to the kn filter being oild is when oil gets sucked up into your mass air flow sensor and ruined the eliments
In Australia the Quantium OEM Filter $30 and $22 for pre filter
Very important info. I use what ever oil I have open.
I have always used my aerosol spray k&n filter oil for all my equipment and vehicles with a k&n drop-in. A can goes a long way.
If all else fails, read the instruction manual...
A dirty air filter will limit the amount of of air going into the carbatrator thus making it run rich.Fouls your plugs.The cold air intake on my truck is pre-oiled because it's not a completely sealed unit but traps the excessive dirt.If I over oil it, it screws up the MAF and wants to lean the motor out.
"A dirty air filter will limit the amount of of air going into the carbatrator". Similar when you oil a filter that's not supposed to be oiled.
Good morning grass rats! 🎉
All right so you said I could use any kind of oil and my prefilter is very thin for my Husqvarna. So I sprayed with Pam and then squeeze it with the paper towel
I don’t oil the foam wrapped filter on my Briggs Intek, however that filter and foam are cleaned and blown out everytime that mower leaves the garage. My filters have held up well and had a long life for doing this. I know some videos are done for folks that largely do not routinely maintain their equipment.
Nothing I enjoy better than to trigger trolls and watch them loose they’re _ _ _ _ when someone does something different than them 😁 For me I could care less what others do, knock yourself out 👏👏👏
Always oil the foam ones. It is about the Engine, not the Filter!
@@gordbaker896 Me and my 16 year old Briggs largely will not 🤣
You're supposed to oil it so you are mistaken, and doing it the right way means you don't have to "blow out the air filter" each and every time, but you do you. However, it doesn't matter so much if the engine uses a conventional paper filter along with the foam pre-filter. You over-maintain your equipment because you failed to read the manual 🤡
There is 2175 telling you that you are wrong too. What would this channel be without a know it all?
@@Hjerte_Verke 😵💫
My 79' Toro gets the filter oiled every year!
Novice I oil mine everyday.
Your right about getting a new pre filter and throwing the old one away normally the foam gets old and starts to fall apart just when you don't realise then when you check it to wash it out it's half gone or sucked around the main filter , good airflow =power and economy filters are cheap engines are not ! New filters are cheap insurance ,
Thanks for the guidance! Very helpful.
Back 40 years ago I raced motorcycles I squeeze to much oil out of my filter an after the race I checked the filter an it sucked dirt because of it. I would also add grease the mating surfaces of the air box.
Grease in the air box is the best
I use Pam skittles spray for the filter plus my home filters also
It's very important to oil in those filters
How about Craftsman round tube filter ? No oil correct. The Eager 1 5.5hp
Chainsaw filters get really dirty because of the sawdust, oil and dirt, but they do not have pre filters to oil. I have to check and clean them every day I use them, otherwise I have starting issues if they get caked with dirt.
I was shocked when my friend chainsaw stopped, I removed filter and it started up, he said I will take it to shop for repair work lolol
I raced Dirt Bikes for 15 years...we use a better oil option. Foam Air Filter oil that starts off liquidy then gets sticky/ gummy and will hold up better in heat or just normal as regular oil will drip downwards and the Dirt Bike products ( they will say they setup sticky - some are no better than regular oil )... the filter will stay better for you longer if you use this type of oil..and cleaning is the same... i usually use a solvent tjen warm regular soapy water to finish the cleaning ( dishwashing detergent is all you need ) ..rinse it in plain water....squeeze it gently to get the water out and let it dry...i usually have an extra filter so one is ready to use and one gets cleaned etc...
We stopped using regular oil in the 1970's.... they said plain oil too but it is not the best option..the better oil isn't expensive and will last many years too...
You're not supposed to saturate the filter in the oil, so there's no dripping. I think you're just overthinking the issue---BUT you are a racer and whatever the budget allows, you can justify and racing has its own issues. Not sure I'd want stickier as that sounds like it would clog in minutes; whatever. For us regular dirt bike trail runners, regular motor oil works splendidly.
@@Hjerte_Verke
nope...been a mechanic fir 50 plus years....and it isn't over oiled if done correctly..it coats it but breathes..and over thinking isn't what i do ... i raced pro and know alot about what i talk about.... i use it on my garden tractors...regular oil will flow down and then your filter has no oil in top part..oil is the fine filter on a foam filter....without oil it is not working properly - why they tell you to oil it....i do squeeze out excess oil...but you learn to add it slowly and cover the filter....if it's too hard to read ?? probably can't understand why we use it..only idiots use a plain oil on foam....but hey? at least oil it....
@@Hjerte_Verke
the reason it sets up sticky is it will not run off ..even lightly oiled filters will start losing the oil
.the sticky part of the setup keeps it suspended on the filter to continue doing the job ..to keep dirt out of your engine..as to affordability? it isn't expensive...saves rebuilds...is pennies to use....you are over thinking this...lol
@@Hjerte_Verke
any dirt bike rider nerfs to learn tips..ignorance isn't being smart..the oil is an improved product anyone can use..and should....how often do you clean your filter???
@@Hjerte_Verke
the sticky part also grabs the dirt better than plain old oil.... before i raced..i rode trails..we all did that..racing isn't high tech till you get into bigger races etc.... you spend money wisely or you pay more by bad maintenance .... anyways my tip was for those interested in different options only...not an order....i give help for Free..like i did when i raced....
I always wash my old filters in gas is this sufficient cleaning and oiling !
Proper filter oil won’t drain out of the filter like engine oil will. It is very sticky and stays there. Some is very thin till it is exposed to air to make it easier to squeeze into the foam then becomes quite viscous.
Good video Taryl, but I'm torn about whether to oil or not. My B&S manual says 'not' to oil the pre-filter, which is exactly like the last filter you showed in this video. Will there be any harm if I do oil the pre-filter? Is B&S statement 'not' to oil it because they want my engine to wear out sooner so they can sell more? Thanks.
This is how I have always done my filters. I like to use the two stroke oil because its normally coloured oil eg red or blue for the two brands I use. The colour in the oil means its easy to see if the filter is fully oiled or if it needs more. I don't agree with throwing out the filters when dirty given its easy to wash them out with dishwashing liquid and then after drying reoil them. We are too wasteful and throwing still good foam filters out is adding to that waste.
I wish the Krohler command PRO had pre filter only replacements.
Redmax says not to oil their foam pre-filters, but I do anyway. Inside of my filter housing stay cleaner using oil, and my trimmers last quite a few commercial years.
I’m gonna start doing that to the Honda filters, oil, the pre-filter
I wanna know what that badass red switchblade is?
Pretty sure it is a Lightning OTF with Tanto blade. They are inexpensive but very reliable and great for EDC. Lots of reviews here
Worsh it it in awesome degreaser.
Hose it.
Step on it.
Squeeze the water out.
If you have 2, you can use the other one while it dries.
(Quote the elkskins)
Before he eats your dinner
If you take the time and read your owners manual, it will explain this exact situation. I have a 2009 JD X-320, 22HP Kawasaki engine with 700hrs. on it and it runs the same as when new. Typically it takes 1 or 2 Oz oil. for this. The pre- cleaner for X series is about 6 dollars. I change it after each week. The actual air cleaner is still like new. If u oil it, it won't run correctly. I did what he said , buy a couple extra.
I have never oiled a foam filter… didn’t think it was necessary? How would anything get through that much dense foam? I just take em out and clean them off after every use
Read the manual? It's just a light amount of oil, enough to make it moist not dripping wet ...and yes the performance is still there. Tons of motorcycles and performance cars (see K&N filters) use oiled air filters. K&N is the king of reusable air filters.
Yes obviously, i have a k&n filter in my truck but honestly they don’t perform as well in dusty environments than just the plane paper filters do… the reason they claim to increase Power is cuz they have less restriction. And back to the point they are built much differently than a sponge…
Can the pre filter be washed out a d reused?
YES. Over and over, as long as you want. The old L-head manuals state the same thing, but nowadays they want to sell more parts so that info might be left out
I never even thought of oiling the foam pre filters. Is this recommended by the manufacturers?
I liked the old Briggs foam filters. Cheap, re-usable and effective.
Yes! I do understand this is the "Taryl the comedian" show but he is not joking. Read the manual.
@@Hjerte_Verke The mowers I have had the privilege to own for the past 60 years did not come with manuals. Most came with a carburetor but all of them.
@@jws3925 Ah I see. Lots of manuals are available online for free.
I has some old equipment with oily filters, it's nice when they rot and fall apart being sucked in the engine lol
Thanks for the tip, never knew that.
thank you
Can you use used motor oil?
Hi there Taryl ,great video man, cheers 🍻
Nice vintage oil bottle. Now where's the model T?
I ride and race dirt bikes. I don't 'clean my filter after every ride' like some say to do. A slightly dirty filter filters better than a clean one. I love saying that because guys get all pissy before they think about it. 😉
However, after just a few trips around my yard my lawn tractor air filter is beyond nasty!
I reuse the paper filter for a year or more and replace the foam pre filter when it first starts to deteriorate.
If your filter get excessively dirty very fast,
remove the deck blades. Its a great cure.
-- You're welcome.
@@mrbrown6421 🤣🤣🤣
Are you Pig Pen from Charlie Brown? Figure to soil an air filter in a few trips around the yard your place has to be utterly filthy!
@@Hjerte_Verke you do your mother, don't you?
Thanks Taryl
I don't use a straight oil to oil filters. Straight oil is often to restrictive. I use a 50- 50 mix of oil and gas. This more easily penetrates the foam for complete saturation. When you squeeze out the foam the oil sticks to the foam and the gas doesn't. I also let it set and air out. The gas evaporates out of the foam.
I tried a K&N filter and used the K&N cleaner and oil. These came in spray cans. Real easy to over oil. When you spray it on do so lightly. You want to barely coat the foam. If you see it it's too much. 5:26
Just use a lighter oil dude, and not so much. That gas and oil sounds a bit overcomplicated. Any oil can work such as a lighter machine oil, the manufacturer just recommends motor oil as it is always at hand. However, I use the recommended amount and never have a problem
I knew 2175 was going to get you as I read your comment and, bingo, there he is like a bad penny
Taryl! I like a little more Vinaigrette with my 10w30 on my Salad, Mmmmm... Keeps me regular too.
I thought motor oil would break down the sponge? I bought the pink stuff that says it's specifically for sponge filters.
Hi Taryll.
I was thinking about this today.
To oil or not to oil.
Thank you 😁
Won't the oil effect how much air is going through the filter? What if your motor didn't have a filter that needs to be pre-lubed, you oil it and now the carb is going to run too rich? Less air flow. I will try to oil my next filter and see if there is a differance.
It's just a light amount of oil; if it is dripping off you used too much. The oil is only there to collect, trap and isolate dirt particles. If your engine runs richer, you can lean the mixture but that's a given as the A/F mixture is always adjusted with the air cleaner installed.
Most filters tgat come with foam filter/pre filter. Are only sold in sets. So you buy both which is ok it takes care of your mower engine.
Good idea to buy them in sets instead of one at a time. Good deals to be had in a 2, 4, 6 pack of filters because they are so cheap
Pre-filters that come in contact with paper filters should not be oiled, they are designed to catch leaves and grass, not necessarily dirt . Some cartridge type filters have a metal mesh screen around them, the pre-filters covering them should be oiled. Oil should never come in contact with the paper filter, it will stop air flow.
I use syrup and it works great and I can wash it out better than oil.
Oh yeah I forgot to mention don’t be a pansy ass about anything!!!
And another thing I have a bag at home, don’t need another one lol 😂
I've had some mowers with one of those square pre filters like he showed and they have DO NOT OIL printed on them.
2175 says, of course, you are stupid and ignorant.
I am with you, not oiling those pre filters.
My KROLLER engine's filter uses those foam prefilters over a pleated paper filter. By the end of the summer there's oil all around the CARBATRATOR and manifold. Is this normal or maybe I'm using too much oil?
I have a Kroller motor in my 2000 Toro wheelhorse 268 Hydro & the dealer said to not even worry about oiling the prefilter, just wash it out every season. I should have probably listened to my gut instincts. Then again the main filter doesn't appear to be dirty when I look at it or hold it up to the light?¿
You might be using too much. The oil just needs to be enough to make the filter moist, not dripping wet. A teaspoon amount?
Cold have a valve or head gasket issue …. I am seeing this on my S170 with only 39 hrs
Old dirt bike riders should know this. There was a oil made just for foam filters, but I don't remember the brand. Maybe someone does.
K&N makes their own filter oil/spray and some of it comes out of a bottle and you drip it on
I think I had PJ1 filter oil, otherwise I used yamalube. But on dirtbikes I cleaned the filter every 2 or 3 hours.
My lawn equipment get the filter changed every 10 years..LOL
The foam is a labyrinth , a maze. The dirt has to make sharp turns as it goes through the foam and it sticks to the oil. There should only be enough oil to coat the tiny strands that make up the foam. You are not trying to fill the voids with oil. Think of an oil saturated rope.
-
I wrap the freshly oiled foam with a paper towel and squeeze the filter. This will force the excess oil out into the paper towel. Do NOT wring the foam. This will tear the fibers.
Can I use used engine oil?
I need a rebuilt old L head 3.5 HP for my good old Sensation mower.
Oiling the filter when oil isn't call for by the manufacturer would restrict airflow and act like a choke. You would be running too rich. OTOH not oiling it when you are supposed to would have you running too lean.
2:56 Vegetable oil in contact with air will oxidize and polymerize due to unsaturations in the molecules, and will become hard and rubbery. The intake has a lot of air going through it, so I would expect the filter to harden and take on a rancid smell if you use vegetable oil.
That is very very good small engine oil. Kinetix is amazing small engine oil.
thank you sir
Taryl , it would be nice if he’d make a video on a Toro two-stroke, snowthrower carburetor, rebuild and adjustment model 38538 just saying since it’s winter time.
I thought they were called Carbatraitors? 😊
There’s only one carburetor on it it doesn’t have dual carburetors
@@ENZIO90 I don't think he's a regular viewer--that comment went over his head. Not sure on the spelling so Taryl needs a sticker for it so we will know a la "Breaks & Scrap'em" 😀
Would this work for shop vac pre filters? Help or hinder?
Goodness, no. Only for engines, Steve.
Use 2 cycle mix gas oil ring it out like a sponge. Best way ...
I did on my car air filter to stops the tiny dust go in the engine unless you live in desert.
Only on FOAM or cars that have a foam pre-filter. Some performance air filters use oil like K&N
I wonder if oiled air filter effects how much gas gets sucked into carburetor
For myself when it comes to oiling filters I'm a little more messy. You take a pan of some sort that you won't mind getting oil in then you put the filter in and pour in the oil, I usually just go for 30 weight non detergent oil since that's what's already in any small engine I'm working with. Then I put on some sort of rubber gloves and get to work making sure the filter has soaked in a good amount of oil, then I wring it some (taking care to not tear the filter) to get out whatever oil I can so it's just damp with oil and not soaked. I just do it this way because it's how I was taught. EDIT: One thing, be careful about having people use any old oil, there are people out there who would use vegetable oil and might be surprised when their filter gets filled with mold.
You complicate simple matters. I just add oil directly to the filter then squish it around--it's not rocket science and we're not working on the Space Shuttle.