I need to remove the bevel on my Mora Garberg Carbon knife this week. Then I will need to redo the black bluing on it. Glad I’m not the only one that does this. Thanks for the video.
@@dabberty I have redone the bluing on my guns before, so this is a similar process just in black. You could also use a mixture of mustard and vinegar to give it a different patina then the blade.
This is the second time I've come across your channel. First time was when I bought a carbon steel frying pan and needed to know how to season it. Now to sharpen my Garberg. My friend you make this look easy.
Hi! I don't understand stropping a scandi without secondary bevel. Won't it make next sharpening a pain, having to remove a lot of metal because of the strop making something like a small convex?
I also removed the secondary bevel on my Garberg ... and subsequently found out why they put it there. This knife is bloody useless with a true scandi geometry. The primary grind is of a height - and the stock is of a thickness - at which the edge is simply too frail for all but the most delicate of tasks. Even moderate use will cause the 14C28N to chip into oblivion. Try it - it might feel good when cutting paper, but I assure you that in the field the blade will be fully serrated after a day's hard use. And 14C28N is an absolute bastard to restore manually - worse than M390 or Elmax in my experience. I spent hours and hours with water stones, faithfully taking it back to scandi, and after another day out I'd have to do it all over again. I mean three to four hours on the stones, day after day. So eventually I got sick of it and put the secondary bevel back on, 20/20, and I've not had a problem with 'er since. I'd like to hear people's observations on the Garberg, because it's a strange beast.
That'd be great, I'd be interested to know your findings. I have to say I'd love to be able to keep a scandi on the Garberg because it is brutally sharp, but the combination of the geometry and the steel makes it super fragile and chippy. Of course on the Companion and other small Moras a true scandi presents no problem at all - my OD carbon Companion hasn't chipped at all and I've been using it a couple of years for all sorts of stuff.
Drive7, a few months and lots of use further, and no issue's at all here. I have actually not even sharpened it since then, just twice a bit of stropping.
wow, thank you very much Dabberty. Great Video. Can you tell me, what waterstones that are and where i can buy it in Germany? Maybe Amazon/ebay or something ether? I dont get my Garberg sharp, i tried with Fällkniven DC4 or Warthog Classic 2 Sharper... no chance, it was on factory first so much sharper
Stefan D Hi, I have the Taidea stones, but they are quite soft, which means you quickly notice which part of the stone is used a lot. Amazon and ebay must have them for sure. After these stones I want to try the King stones, should be harder and not wear that quickly.
Good Morning. Thanks! So would you remove now furthermore the second bevel or should it be there? It seems not so easy to sharpen the second bevel, like a real Scandi
drive 7, under me removed the bevel and said: This knife is bloody useless with a true scandi geometry". Can you see the same here? That would be not good....
@@TinyIslandMaine in that case i would keep it flat on the sharpening stone indeed. But all the scraping on wood and the firesteel i do with the spine of the knife. So far it was not needed to sharpen the spine again.
Dabberty thanks for the tip. I use the spine for ferro rod and the pommel for scraping wood dust etc. if I ever have to sharpen it I will let you know how it turns out. And thanks for the consistent & great content.
Hi, I wanted to know from your experience whether this 14C28N steel is really great as it is said for knives to use in nature? Is better than 440C or VG10? Let me know what you think, a greetings Michele
Howdy Dabbs......haven't talked to you in a while, but I noticed your comment on one of the threads over at B&B the other day. I was just curious about your evaluation of that new Garberg, now that you've had a chance to use it in camp situations? Oh.....and I LOVE your waterstones!
Mr Oldsen, at the moment my wife, kid and myself are down with angina, so not much action here. The Garberg is doing really well, is great in the hand, performs as it should, but for some reason it's not my kind of knife. I think it is due to no wooden handle.. I don't know, but the knife is not to blame, it's just personal preference.
Dabberty I was a bit turned off by the handle but I've noticed a huge change with everyday use with gloves for 3 months. I stopped working with gloves cause the winter is over a d the grip actually feels somewhat like micarta now, its softer than it was new. I think if people use the knife as an edc like I have, they will find that the grip does become softer feeling with a more warm type touch to it. I've really used mine hard everyday actually and its really grown on me, I took off the secondary bevel to but gave mine a slight convex for extra strength but also cause I like the way it carves. I also took off the insanely sharp spine, I carve and whittle way to much and my thumbs were literally bleeding, the benefits of a sharp spine for some folks just doesn't out way the negatives.
Dabberty I was a bit turned off by the handle but I've noticed a huge change with everyday use with gloves for 3 months. I stopped working with gloves cause the winter is over a d the grip actually feels somewhat like micarta now, its softer than it was new. I think if people use the knife as an edc like I have, they will find that the grip does become softer feeling with a more warm type touch to it. I've really used mine hard everyday actually and its really grown on me, I took off the secondary bevel to but gave mine a slight convex for extra strength but also cause I like the way it carves. I also took off the insanely sharp spine, I carve and whittle way to much and my thumbs were literally bleeding, the benefits of a sharp spine for some folks just doesn't out way the negatives.
Dabberty dan doe ik toch iets fout haha. Ben al een uur bezig aan 1 kant, en het schiet alsnog niet op. 180 grit steen, die nu overigens volledig vervormd is. Moet maar even een egaliseersteen halen. Bedankt voor je antwoord!
Dutch Wildcamp die steen is wel erg goedkoop.. ook raar dat hij nu al vervormd is. Ik heb jarenlang met een goedkope combi steen van de hornbach mijn mes en bijl geslepen, maar die bleef vrij vlak. Nu heb ik de taidea waterstenen. Per combi steen zijn ze rond de 40 eur. Naja, geen idee, maar sterkte in elk geval.
Hej wow man super scherp. Ik heb dezelfde setje stenen als jij daar hebt maar ik kom er niet eens dicht bij in de buurt ! En de Mora (compagnon) schijnt nog wel makkelijk te slijpen... ik ben echt *piep* slecht.... ;(((
Ik twijfel ook altijd bij de 2e kant of ik teveel van de bevel afhaal, of ik zegma voorbij de apex ga. Ik ben ook 2 dagen begonnen met deze hobby maar tis moeilijker als ik dacht jeetje.. Kan jij me misschien helpen met wat ik fout doe? Ik denk zelf dat ik op verkeerde moment overstap naar een fijnere grid, ik weet het anders echt niet meer :( Kan je misschien een schema'tje voorstellen met hoeveel strokes het ongeveer allemaal moet??
GamingFreak076 Als je net begonnen bent, is er nog niets aan de hand hoor. M’n eerste mes heb ik ook flink verneukt met slijpen toen. Gewoon blijven oefenen. Zelf doe ik meestal iets van 20 tot 30 strokes per zijde, en dan naar de volgende steen. Voelt hij na elke steen niet scherper, dan herhalen.
Within the past two years, I moved twice, built a house and then work. I shot a few videos which I never posted, because I always ask myself if it´s really worthwhile. Once my new workshop is operational, I think I will get back to it. Anyway, thanks for the enouragement! Cheers, chris
I was going to get a garberg but I changed my mind. I don’t want a bloody micro bevel on a scandy grind knive. I’ll stick whith my 10 year old HD compagnon.
I recently bought the same knife, and it was more or less blunt out of the box. I've made several attempts to sharpen it using a set of water stones (currently 400, 1000 and 6000) and haven't had much success. Definitely nowhere near the results you got here when cutting paper. I wish I had just sent it back now!
![Repairing the worst MORA BUSHCRAFT I have ever seen! - [WATERSTONE SHARPENING]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cuZHrq-zQ4Y/mqdefault.jpg)
![Repairing the worst MORA BUSHCRAFT I have ever seen! - [WATERSTONE SHARPENING]](/img/tr.png)
I need to remove the bevel on my Mora Garberg Carbon knife this week. Then I will need to redo the black bluing on it. Glad I’m not the only one that does this. Thanks for the video.
Your welcome! With what will you do the black bluing if I may ask?
@@dabberty I have redone the bluing on my guns before, so this is a similar process just in black. You could also use a mixture of mustard and vinegar to give it a different patina then the blade.
This is the second time I've come across your channel. First time was when I bought a carbon steel frying pan and needed to know how to season it. Now to sharpen my Garberg. My friend you make this look easy.
Thanks ! Good luck with the garberg, I have not regrets in removing that second bevel, it's a great knife without it.
Did the same to mine as well and the Eldris
Absolutely hated the ridiculous secondary bevel
Nice work
WildMedGuru1 Thanks, didn't expect that the Eldris had it as well.
"Good enough." I would say exceptional.
Thanks
I did the same thing except I used sand paper🤣..still removed it and it's sharper than ever.
Hi! I don't understand stropping a scandi without secondary bevel. Won't it make next sharpening a pain, having to remove a lot of metal because of the strop making something like a small convex?
Michal Urban Hi, I sharpened it only once after this video, it holds an edge very well. And with the sharpening i didn’t notice any problem with it.
Yeah, I only use those sharpening stones, never the crappy knife sharpeners in the stores. Real men use stones 😁👍
I agree !
Awesome vid man!
I also removed the secondary bevel on my Garberg ... and subsequently found out why they put it there. This knife is bloody useless with a true scandi geometry. The primary grind is of a height - and the stock is of a thickness - at which the edge is simply too frail for all but the most delicate of tasks. Even moderate use will cause the 14C28N to chip into oblivion. Try it - it might feel good when cutting paper, but I assure you that in the field the blade will be fully serrated after a day's hard use. And 14C28N is an absolute bastard to restore manually - worse than M390 or Elmax in my experience. I spent hours and hours with water stones, faithfully taking it back to scandi, and after another day out I'd have to do it all over again. I mean three to four hours on the stones, day after day. So eventually I got sick of it and put the secondary bevel back on, 20/20, and I've not had a problem with 'er since. I'd like to hear people's observations on the Garberg, because it's a strange beast.
drive7 thats weird, i had no chipping issues yet. I'll put her to work a bit more and let you know.
That'd be great, I'd be interested to know your findings. I have to say I'd love to be able to keep a scandi on the Garberg because it is brutally sharp, but the combination of the geometry and the steel makes it super fragile and chippy. Of course on the Companion and other small Moras a true scandi presents no problem at all - my OD carbon Companion hasn't chipped at all and I've been using it a couple of years for all sorts of stuff.
Thanks for your experience, I was going to get a garberg and after reeding your comment I’ll stick whith my HD compagnon !
hmm? i am confused, Garberg has a Scandi with second bevel? So the removing is not good or is it?
Drive7, a few months and lots of use further, and no issue's at all here. I have actually not even sharpened it since then, just twice a bit of stropping.
wow, thank you very much Dabberty. Great Video. Can you tell me, what waterstones that are and where i can buy it in Germany? Maybe Amazon/ebay or something ether? I dont get my Garberg sharp, i tried with Fällkniven DC4 or Warthog Classic 2 Sharper... no chance, it was on factory first so much sharper
Stefan D Hi, I have the Taidea stones, but they are quite soft, which means you quickly notice which part of the stone is used a lot. Amazon and ebay must have them for sure.
After these stones I want to try the King stones, should be harder and not wear that quickly.
Good Morning. Thanks! So would you remove now furthermore the second bevel or should it be there? It seems not so easy to sharpen the second bevel, like a real Scandi
Stefan D Hi, I’ll remove the second bevel always, personally I don’t like them. If you have a good knife, you don’t need it to keep a good edge.
drive 7, under me removed the bevel and said: This knife is bloody useless with a true scandi geometry". Can you see the same here? That would be not good....
For me it works perfect. Perhaps he changed the angle too much, I don't know. For me it works just fine, better then original.
Excellent job. How do you sharpen the pommel scraper? Do you just hold it 90* to the stone?
You mean the one on the back of the knife? I haven't touched that one, and see not much use for it..
Dabberty I have not had to either, but I figured sooner or later after using it for scraping, it would dull and was curious how it would be sharpened.
@@TinyIslandMaine in that case i would keep it flat on the sharpening stone indeed. But all the scraping on wood and the firesteel i do with the spine of the knife. So far it was not needed to sharpen the spine again.
Dabberty thanks for the tip. I use the spine for ferro rod and the pommel for scraping wood dust etc. if I ever have to sharpen it I will let you know how it turns out. And thanks for the consistent & great content.
Hi, I wanted to know from your experience whether this 14C28N steel is really great as it is said for knives to use in nature? Is better than 440C or VG10? Let me know what you think, a greetings Michele
Howdy Dabbs......haven't talked to you in a while, but I noticed your comment on one of the threads over at B&B the other day. I was just curious about your evaluation of that new Garberg, now that you've had a chance to use it in camp situations? Oh.....and I LOVE your waterstones!
Mr Oldsen, at the moment my wife, kid and myself are down with angina, so not much action here. The Garberg is doing really well, is great in the hand, performs as it should, but for some reason it's not my kind of knife. I think it is due to no wooden handle.. I don't know, but the knife is not to blame, it's just personal preference.
Dabberty I was a bit turned off by the handle but I've noticed a huge change with everyday use with gloves for 3 months. I stopped working with gloves cause the winter is over a d the grip actually feels somewhat like micarta now, its softer than it was new. I think if people use the knife as an edc like I have, they will find that the grip does become softer feeling with a more warm type touch to it. I've really used mine hard everyday actually and its really grown on me, I took off the secondary bevel to but gave mine a slight convex for extra strength but also cause I like the way it carves. I also took off the insanely sharp spine, I carve and whittle way to much and my thumbs were literally bleeding, the benefits of a sharp spine for some folks just doesn't out way the negatives.
Dabberty I was a bit turned off by the handle but I've noticed a huge change with everyday use with gloves for 3 months. I stopped working with gloves cause the winter is over a d the grip actually feels somewhat like micarta now, its softer than it was new. I think if people use the knife as an edc like I have, they will find that the grip does become softer feeling with a more warm type touch to it. I've really used mine hard everyday actually and its really grown on me, I took off the secondary bevel to but gave mine a slight convex for extra strength but also cause I like the way it carves. I also took off the insanely sharp spine, I carve and whittle way to much and my thumbs were literally bleeding, the benefits of a sharp spine for some folks just doesn't out way the negatives.
This is great! Do you just rest the blade on the bevel and sand it down to eliminate the secondary edge? Looks easy.
Yep, that sums it up indeed.
Hoe lang ben je met 600 grit bezig geweest? Ben zelf bezig met een second bevel verwijderen op m'n EKA mes, maar schiet niet echt op.
Dutch Wildcamp Hoi, als ik het me goed herinder iets van 15 minuten max. In totaal duurde het gebeuren niet langer dan 35 minuten.
Dabberty dan doe ik toch iets fout haha. Ben al een uur bezig aan 1 kant, en het schiet alsnog niet op. 180 grit steen, die nu overigens volledig vervormd is. Moet maar even een egaliseersteen halen.
Bedankt voor je antwoord!
Dutch Wildcamp raar, wat voor mes is het? En wat voor steen?
Dutch Wildcamp die steen is wel erg goedkoop.. ook raar dat hij nu al vervormd is. Ik heb jarenlang met een goedkope combi steen van de hornbach mijn mes en bijl geslepen, maar die bleef vrij vlak. Nu heb ik de taidea waterstenen. Per combi steen zijn ze rond de 40 eur. Naja, geen idee, maar sterkte in elk geval.
Iets met goedkoop = duurkoop hehe. Komt wel goed, thanks
Hej wow man super scherp.
Ik heb dezelfde setje stenen als jij daar hebt maar ik kom er niet eens dicht bij in de buurt !
En de Mora (compagnon) schijnt nog wel makkelijk te slijpen... ik ben echt *piep* slecht.... ;(((
Ik twijfel ook altijd bij de 2e kant of ik teveel van de bevel afhaal, of ik zegma voorbij de apex ga.
Ik ben ook 2 dagen begonnen met deze hobby maar tis moeilijker als ik dacht jeetje..
Kan jij me misschien helpen met wat ik fout doe?
Ik denk zelf dat ik op verkeerde moment overstap naar een fijnere grid, ik weet het anders echt niet meer :(
Kan je misschien een schema'tje voorstellen met hoeveel strokes het ongeveer allemaal moet??
GamingFreak076 Als je net begonnen bent, is er nog niets aan de hand hoor. M’n eerste mes heb ik ook flink verneukt met slijpen toen. Gewoon blijven oefenen. Zelf doe ik meestal iets van 20 tot 30 strokes per zijde, en dan naar de volgende steen. Voelt hij na elke steen niet scherper, dan herhalen.
Ik denk dat ik teveel verwacht zonder stropping :P
(I think i expect too much without stropping)
GamingFreak076 nee hoor, stroppen is niet zaligmakend. Als je goed slijpt hoef je niet zonodig te stroppen.
Oke bedankt dan moet ik nog wat oefenen haha:P
nice!
TheLicewine thank you
TheLicewine btw, will you be uploading any videos? I didn't see anything passing by for a while, which is a shame. I like your videos.
Within the past two years, I moved twice, built a house and then work. I shot a few videos which I never posted, because I always ask myself if it´s really worthwhile. Once my new workshop is operational, I think I will get back to it. Anyway, thanks for the enouragement! Cheers, chris
This is a Cool
Viktor Yellow Pro thanks
I was going to get a garberg but I changed my mind. I don’t want a bloody micro bevel on a scandy grind knive. I’ll stick whith my 10 year old HD compagnon.
973Marcelino Agree although it’s easy to remove. In 2 weeks I will get also the Kansbol, curious if that one will be properly delivered :-)
one one jeaaa
Get the carbon version would of been sharper in half the time
You can not really choose when it's a gift right?
I recently bought the same knife, and it was more or less blunt out of the box. I've made several attempts to sharpen it using a set of water stones (currently 400, 1000 and 6000) and haven't had much success. Definitely nowhere near the results you got here when cutting paper. I wish I had just sent it back now!
Thats not good, sorry to hear that. Where are you located?
Get the carbon version. Way better
Secondary bevels SUUUUUCKKKK!!!
Prepared 2 Thrive indeed they do :-)