Thanks for this video that was awesome👍 I was able to see the whole thing thanks so much. I live in Michigan they said we were in90% but I saw nothing really the animals went nuts but nothing exciting. Again thank you for the whole thing that had to be so cool to go through that. Good place to view
Nice... we were in the 98% totality, would have had to drive about an hour NW to see totality, which we thought about doing but it was a school day and Betty didn't want to take off from class... I would've been pressed to get back in time for the bus, and hated to leave them in a lurch for an afternoon driver since there's only six buses in our school district here in Shiner... plus Betty has to take off now and then for doc appointments and we sometimes take off to go up north 4 hours to where my daughter is in college at Tarleton State University in Stephenville... So we try not to abuse the privilege... At any rate it was 100% overcast and actually raining some here during the eclipse... down in far South Texas near the Mexico border it was sunny but even if we'd have driven about 3 hours west it would have been cloudy, so I'm glad we decided not to take the day off. It was a little better up at Fort Worth where our nephew and his wife teach school... they got to go out to the sports field and watch it, so that was nice fo them-- they were in totality. The family up in north central Indiana got to see it too, they had decent weather I think. I went out between rain showers for totality and it got noticeably darker for about 15-20 minutes but that was about it... about like a heavy overcast storm clouds would do, though... Oh well... Like I said we'd have had to take the day off and drive 4 hours to have been able to see it because of weather... More to come...
Continued... I like those Krone mowers... are they the same mower cutterbar as the 3 point hitch models?? If not I wouldn't be as impressed. What I like about the Krone mowers is, the cutterbar protection is a roll pin connecting the hub to the shaft... if the disk runs into something, it simply shears off the roll pin and the threaded shaft continues to spin, turning the hub up the threads and "jacking" it out of the way, so it cannot collide with the other disks by being out of proper timing... that way it can spin and overlap the other disks without hitting them or being hit. When the shaft has spun it up a couple inches, it runs out of threads and the disk is held on a turned-down section of the top of the shaft that allows it to "freewheel" until the mower stops turning. All you have to do to fix it is spin the disk back down the threads til it bottoms out at the proper timing arrangement, and then drive in a new cheap roll pin. Easy peasy and cheap to fix! Our local dealer likes to sell Kuhn mowers with the top service bar and hubs... problem is, the "protectadrive" hubs are EXPENSIVE!! If you hit something with the mower, the disk stopping will cause the shaft to shear completely off at the top of the toolbar... the "turtle" disk is tossed out the back of the mower, still bolted to the hub and with the stub of shaft still in it. They mill down the roughly 1 inch shaft by cutting slot in it so what's left of the center of the shaft is about the size of a dime-- this creates a weak spot where the shaft twists off if it hits something. Problem is, IF Kuhn would sell the new gear and shaft (since they're one piece) it would be bad enough, probably still $100 fix, BUT they DO NOT SERVICE any of the parts in the hubs... they are a "unit part" only and sold as the entire assembly--- the gear/shaft, double row ball bearing, bearing hub that bolts to the top of the cutterbar, seal, and the disk hub which the turtle bolts down onto with four bolts... and the assembly is over $250 bucks each! I've read on some forums where guys wanted to fix old bearings-- either the seals wore out or got cut by twine or something wrapping around the shaft, or the double ball bearing wore and got sloppy, but otherwise the shaft, hub, gear, and disk hub were fine... BUT Kuhn refuses to sell the bearings either, or the seal... "too complicated for the farmer to set the preload on the double row ball bearing" is their claim... course the farmer I read about posting his experience said that's all bullsh!t... same as setting the preload on a wheel bearing or any other bearing that you tighten down the nut to put a little pressure on it to set the preload... the shaft goes up through the double row ball bearing pressed into the hub, with the gear on bottom pressing against the underside of the bearing, and then the seal is tapped into the hub, and the top disk hub installed over the splines and seal, and then the shaft nut goes on top, and is tightened down to compress the split inner race to create the proper preload on the two rows of bearing balls... the nut is locked in place and voila, all done. He finally managed to source the seal and the hard to find double row ball bearing from a supplier in Europe that makes the bearings, probably for car front wheel bearings or something. Once he got them he rebuilt the hub assemblies for like $25-50 bucks each depending on what all they needed... sure beats $250 every time something happens! The New Holland mowers use a shear hub, as does John Deere pull-type mowers. The JD 3 point disk mowers are just repainted Kuhns and use the exact same system/hubs as the Kuhn. Deere mills like four or six splines in their hubs designed to shear off if something hard is hit. New Holland 3 point and pull types use the same sort of system called "Mow Max". The hub kits from NH are like $50 bucks, so not too bad, and can be replaced on the cutterbar in a few minutes with a couple wrenches. Worst thing about their design is, and there's ultra-slo-mo vids of this on TH-cam, is that the sheared hub spins on the shaft once the splines are gone, and this throws the disk out of time... it then collides with another disk on either side of it which "knocks it back in time" until the mower spins down and stops... this collision, even filmed in super-slo-motion, is quite violent... The old Kuhns had non-top service hubs, so if you hit something you sheared parts internally or stripped gears, and usually grenaded the entire cutterbar. To fix them you had to basically gut the entire bar with all the gears pulled out one end. No bueno at all. The "Frontier" cheap JD brand mowers are this type; I wouldn't waste my money on one of those new or not... The NH and Vermeers are shaft-driven cutterbars... both modular. The NH has short "quill shafts" connecting each module together inside the spacers bolted between modules to make the cutterbar and transfer power down the bar. The old pre-Mow-Max bars would shear off a quill shaft or strip a module gear if you hit something. Modules come in RH and LH depending on the direction they spin and you can split the bar anywhere along its length and replace the module, then bolt the bar back together again on NH. Vermeer bars are modular but stack together like disk blades and spacers on a long arbor bolt that runs the length of the bar to hold all the modules together... they use a single (some new ones use two separate shorter driveshafts) hex shafts that connect all the module lower gears together to drive the modules and maintain timing... I've heard that they can be a total PITA, particularly the older mowers, if the hex shaft gets twisted over time from torque loads, since the cutterbar modules have to slide off the spiral-twisted hex shaft and the cross-shafts and gears run from one side of the module to the other and are supported by internal bearings on either end and seals for the oil, and have a hex hole through them for the shaft to transmit power to it. Otherwise the bars look very good.. they're built by Lely in Europe, at least they were... I heard several years ago Vermeer started building their own or bought out Lely or something like that and changed their design somewhat, making it a bit beefier and larger hex shaft to resist twisting better, and going to two shafts that meet in the middle so even if it does get twisted no module has to go from one end to the other, but from the middle to either end... makes good sense. I know when the disk mowers started really becoming popular in the late 80's and we decided to finally retire our old Ford 501 sickle mower (the Jubilee was about done for hay cutting and the 501 was WAY overpowered by the 6600 Ford and didn't fit it right, and breaking Pitman sticks was no fun at all... I looked at the various mowers on the market and our dealer here in Shiner, Boehm Tractor, had two choices... the Kuhn first series non-top service mowers (which top service was invented later) in either Kuhn brand or NH brand (NH hadn't come out with their own modular design yet and was selling rebranded Kuhns at the time) or a PZ Zweegers drum mower... What made the decision for me was that the kuhns had 23 gears in the cutterbar to spin all the disks and they were daisy-chained together... that's a LOT of gears and bearings and seals and stuff... the Zweegers drum mower had six gears, all bevel, 2 for the input shaft and cross-shaft and 2 bevel gears for each drum... plus the gearbox was up top of the drums which hung down below it with their skid saucers below that, so the cutterbar was well up out of the dirt and risk of damage, as I'd heard stories of knives getting bent on Kuhns and cutting into the cutterbar gearcase, and ruining them, and then you had to buy a new cutterbar gearcase and replace it... We bought the Zweegers in '88 and it's still working today. All those old Kuhns were scrapped LONG ago... Not sure what your Pottinger has or any of the other pasta mowers or Turkish mowers... I know there's a lot of companies building them but I was told better to stay away from the Italian and Turkish ones... YMMV (your mileage may vary). I did a lot of research for when I decide to replace the Zweegers... it's heavy and folds straight back like your Pottinger, and the 5610S is light on front when you raise it folded to go down the road, but it works... I ran a top service Kuhn on a 5610S Ford for a guy who did custom baling, husband of a woman I used to drive buses with... it was a good match power and weight wise... Only thing I don't really like about the Zweegers is it's only a 7 foot 2 inch cut, so even going at 6 mph it takes some time to get done. Still faster than lightning compared to an old sickle mower though! I'd like to go to a nine footer, probably a disk mower because the drum mowers are practically extinct now... Maybe a pull type with conditioner on it, either tines or rollers... would be nice for winter ryegrass or wheat hay and sorghum-sudan in the summer... the ryegrass is kinda hard to dry early in the year when it's cool and days are shorter, because it's SO thick, and sorghum-sudan is hard to dry even in 100 degree temps because of the stems if it's not crimped or conditioned...
It was pretty cool we were under 95% totality here in my part of Atlantic Canada. The resident otter that lives in the brook about 1/3 mile away got all messed up he ran around all freaked out.
![ALLY - OH MY! [ REACTION ] 'Amarin Nitibhon' #ALLY_OHMY #ALLY #allynitibhon #แอลลี่](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nX9qpHjVfbQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Best way to watch it from a combine and tractor 👍👍. We had about 90 to 95 percent coverage, had our security lights come on here at the farm.
I live in Crawford county, Ohio and we had 100% totality. Pretty awesome to experience, once in a lifetime. Thx for the video !!
Thanks for this video that was awesome👍 I was able to see the whole thing thanks so much. I live in Michigan they said we were in90% but I saw nothing really the animals went nuts but nothing exciting. Again thank you for the whole thing that had to be so cool to go through that. Good place to view
We had one 20 or so years ago but it didn’t get that dark! Wow.
Jacob good to see your videos. What’s the farm plan for this season?
Great video. Very special. I hope for more fun farming action soon. I hope you find your missing camera.
Good to see you back Jacob
Nice... we were in the 98% totality, would have had to drive about an hour NW to see totality, which we thought about doing but it was a school day and Betty didn't want to take off from class... I would've been pressed to get back in time for the bus, and hated to leave them in a lurch for an afternoon driver since there's only six buses in our school district here in Shiner... plus Betty has to take off now and then for doc appointments and we sometimes take off to go up north 4 hours to where my daughter is in college at Tarleton State University in Stephenville... So we try not to abuse the privilege...
At any rate it was 100% overcast and actually raining some here during the eclipse... down in far South Texas near the Mexico border it was sunny but even if we'd have driven about 3 hours west it would have been cloudy, so I'm glad we decided not to take the day off. It was a little better up at Fort Worth where our nephew and his wife teach school... they got to go out to the sports field and watch it, so that was nice fo them-- they were in totality. The family up in north central Indiana got to see it too, they had decent weather I think.
I went out between rain showers for totality and it got noticeably darker for about 15-20 minutes but that was about it... about like a heavy overcast storm clouds would do, though... Oh well... Like I said we'd have had to take the day off and drive 4 hours to have been able to see it because of weather...
More to come...
Continued...
I like those Krone mowers... are they the same mower cutterbar as the 3 point hitch models?? If not I wouldn't be as impressed. What I like about the Krone mowers is, the cutterbar protection is a roll pin connecting the hub to the shaft... if the disk runs into something, it simply shears off the roll pin and the threaded shaft continues to spin, turning the hub up the threads and "jacking" it out of the way, so it cannot collide with the other disks by being out of proper timing... that way it can spin and overlap the other disks without hitting them or being hit. When the shaft has spun it up a couple inches, it runs out of threads and the disk is held on a turned-down section of the top of the shaft that allows it to "freewheel" until the mower stops turning. All you have to do to fix it is spin the disk back down the threads til it bottoms out at the proper timing arrangement, and then drive in a new cheap roll pin. Easy peasy and cheap to fix!
Our local dealer likes to sell Kuhn mowers with the top service bar and hubs... problem is, the "protectadrive" hubs are EXPENSIVE!! If you hit something with the mower, the disk stopping will cause the shaft to shear completely off at the top of the toolbar... the "turtle" disk is tossed out the back of the mower, still bolted to the hub and with the stub of shaft still in it. They mill down the roughly 1 inch shaft by cutting slot in it so what's left of the center of the shaft is about the size of a dime-- this creates a weak spot where the shaft twists off if it hits something. Problem is, IF Kuhn would sell the new gear and shaft (since they're one piece) it would be bad enough, probably still $100 fix, BUT they DO NOT SERVICE any of the parts in the hubs... they are a "unit part" only and sold as the entire assembly--- the gear/shaft, double row ball bearing, bearing hub that bolts to the top of the cutterbar, seal, and the disk hub which the turtle bolts down onto with four bolts... and the assembly is over $250 bucks each! I've read on some forums where guys wanted to fix old bearings-- either the seals wore out or got cut by twine or something wrapping around the shaft, or the double ball bearing wore and got sloppy, but otherwise the shaft, hub, gear, and disk hub were fine... BUT Kuhn refuses to sell the bearings either, or the seal... "too complicated for the farmer to set the preload on the double row ball bearing" is their claim... course the farmer I read about posting his experience said that's all bullsh!t... same as setting the preload on a wheel bearing or any other bearing that you tighten down the nut to put a little pressure on it to set the preload... the shaft goes up through the double row ball bearing pressed into the hub, with the gear on bottom pressing against the underside of the bearing, and then the seal is tapped into the hub, and the top disk hub installed over the splines and seal, and then the shaft nut goes on top, and is tightened down to compress the split inner race to create the proper preload on the two rows of bearing balls... the nut is locked in place and voila, all done. He finally managed to source the seal and the hard to find double row ball bearing from a supplier in Europe that makes the bearings, probably for car front wheel bearings or something. Once he got them he rebuilt the hub assemblies for like $25-50 bucks each depending on what all they needed... sure beats $250 every time something happens!
The New Holland mowers use a shear hub, as does John Deere pull-type mowers. The JD 3 point disk mowers are just repainted Kuhns and use the exact same system/hubs as the Kuhn. Deere mills like four or six splines in their hubs designed to shear off if something hard is hit. New Holland 3 point and pull types use the same sort of system called "Mow Max". The hub kits from NH are like $50 bucks, so not too bad, and can be replaced on the cutterbar in a few minutes with a couple wrenches. Worst thing about their design is, and there's ultra-slo-mo vids of this on TH-cam, is that the sheared hub spins on the shaft once the splines are gone, and this throws the disk out of time... it then collides with another disk on either side of it which "knocks it back in time" until the mower spins down and stops... this collision, even filmed in super-slo-motion, is quite violent...
The old Kuhns had non-top service hubs, so if you hit something you sheared parts internally or stripped gears, and usually grenaded the entire cutterbar. To fix them you had to basically gut the entire bar with all the gears pulled out one end. No bueno at all. The "Frontier" cheap JD brand mowers are this type; I wouldn't waste my money on one of those new or not...
The NH and Vermeers are shaft-driven cutterbars... both modular. The NH has short "quill shafts" connecting each module together inside the spacers bolted between modules to make the cutterbar and transfer power down the bar. The old pre-Mow-Max bars would shear off a quill shaft or strip a module gear if you hit something. Modules come in RH and LH depending on the direction they spin and you can split the bar anywhere along its length and replace the module, then bolt the bar back together again on NH. Vermeer bars are modular but stack together like disk blades and spacers on a long arbor bolt that runs the length of the bar to hold all the modules together... they use a single (some new ones use two separate shorter driveshafts) hex shafts that connect all the module lower gears together to drive the modules and maintain timing... I've heard that they can be a total PITA, particularly the older mowers, if the hex shaft gets twisted over time from torque loads, since the cutterbar modules have to slide off the spiral-twisted hex shaft and the cross-shafts and gears run from one side of the module to the other and are supported by internal bearings on either end and seals for the oil, and have a hex hole through them for the shaft to transmit power to it. Otherwise the bars look very good.. they're built by Lely in Europe, at least they were... I heard several years ago Vermeer started building their own or bought out Lely or something like that and changed their design somewhat, making it a bit beefier and larger hex shaft to resist twisting better, and going to two shafts that meet in the middle so even if it does get twisted no module has to go from one end to the other, but from the middle to either end... makes good sense.
I know when the disk mowers started really becoming popular in the late 80's and we decided to finally retire our old Ford 501 sickle mower (the Jubilee was about done for hay cutting and the 501 was WAY overpowered by the 6600 Ford and didn't fit it right, and breaking Pitman sticks was no fun at all... I looked at the various mowers on the market and our dealer here in Shiner, Boehm Tractor, had two choices... the Kuhn first series non-top service mowers (which top service was invented later) in either Kuhn brand or NH brand (NH hadn't come out with their own modular design yet and was selling rebranded Kuhns at the time) or a PZ Zweegers drum mower... What made the decision for me was that the kuhns had 23 gears in the cutterbar to spin all the disks and they were daisy-chained together... that's a LOT of gears and bearings and seals and stuff... the Zweegers drum mower had six gears, all bevel, 2 for the input shaft and cross-shaft and 2 bevel gears for each drum... plus the gearbox was up top of the drums which hung down below it with their skid saucers below that, so the cutterbar was well up out of the dirt and risk of damage, as I'd heard stories of knives getting bent on Kuhns and cutting into the cutterbar gearcase, and ruining them, and then you had to buy a new cutterbar gearcase and replace it... We bought the Zweegers in '88 and it's still working today. All those old Kuhns were scrapped LONG ago...
Not sure what your Pottinger has or any of the other pasta mowers or Turkish mowers... I know there's a lot of companies building them but I was told better to stay away from the Italian and Turkish ones... YMMV (your mileage may vary). I did a lot of research for when I decide to replace the Zweegers... it's heavy and folds straight back like your Pottinger, and the 5610S is light on front when you raise it folded to go down the road, but it works... I ran a top service Kuhn on a 5610S Ford for a guy who did custom baling, husband of a woman I used to drive buses with... it was a good match power and weight wise... Only thing I don't really like about the Zweegers is it's only a 7 foot 2 inch cut, so even going at 6 mph it takes some time to get done. Still faster than lightning compared to an old sickle mower though! I'd like to go to a nine footer, probably a disk mower because the drum mowers are practically extinct now... Maybe a pull type with conditioner on it, either tines or rollers... would be nice for winter ryegrass or wheat hay and sorghum-sudan in the summer... the ryegrass is kinda hard to dry early in the year when it's cool and days are shorter, because it's SO thick, and sorghum-sudan is hard to dry even in 100 degree temps because of the stems if it's not crimped or conditioned...
18:37 Hey! I’m from Manitoba, of course about 2 hours away from Winnipeg but that’s pretty cool!
Good video.
Who is the new farmer?
I was thinking the same thing
The power of God is amazing
Late 90’s model
I thought you bought a newer combine at first.
So what did they want for that mower? don't tell us that you didn't price it
20k
Long time jacob
I had no interest in this at all, and we were about 500 miles from totality. However, watching a few minutes was interesting.
It was pretty cool we were under 95% totality here in my part of Atlantic Canada. The resident otter that lives in the brook about 1/3 mile away got all messed up he ran around all freaked out.