@@TheDeepPlanet Aye that's fair - was useful for myself as I've not touched a motor that wasn't 125cc or below and attached to handheld garden or construction equipment since I did a motor vehicle course when I was a late teen.. I have a Ninja 650 with a knocking motor and I'm fairly confident I have the skills to tear it down and at least fix the immediate problem (my assumption is it's spun a bearing, but not 100% it hasn't screwed at least one of the cylinders - was down to running on one of two at one point but is back up to two from cold now, so also assuming it's not junk), and watching videos like this (even though you didn't dive too deep into the motor) gives me some confidence to at least try tearing the thing down. I'm surprised at how few videos there are on here documenting the process, given how often you can find the same sort of videos for car engines.
@@innocuousmerchant8766 I stripped the engine down to figuring out it was a main bearing failure… mostly had the top end in bits and the bottom end still together. I then totalled up how much it would cost in parts and tools to strip and rebuild the entire motor from that point and found that there was only a couple hundred difference in stripping and rebuilding vs buying a used motor (with less miles, but unknown history) so I opted for the used motor. Built the bike back up with the new engine and it ran perfect again. Managed to sell the busted motor in its various parts to a mechanic for the couple hundred difference that buying a working one cost me over rebuilding
Thanks for showing a good close up of the Cam, so I know exactly where the feeler guages are supposed to go. However, you didn't seem to replace any shims. I will probably need to know how to do that, too.
Hi Andrew. Thanks for watching. The valves were all in spec so I didn't need to change any shims. I'm planning on doing more vids and will do one on the valve adjustment when I get a chance. There is a chart in the workshop manual that shows how to calculate what thickness they need to be...
How come you barely have over 1000 views!!! The quality of the video and explanation is great!! If I wanted to get the shims to actually adjust the valves, how would i order them??
Thanks for watching! You can get shim kits online (eBay) but it might be worth speaking to your local mechanic or dealership to see if you can order the shims individually.
I'm building a hybrid between the er6n and the Versys and will be filming each step. Will be doing a compression test on the motor and then putting it into the frame if it's good...
Hi there. Yes, I've done a few other videos on how to service the bike , replace the mechanical oil seal, change the brake pads. Planning on doing more in the coming months. Thanks for watching. 😎
Great video bro! Very well explained, I know you didn’t adjust but if I wanted to adjust I have to replace shims aswell? Or can I just adjust ? 2011 Versys 650 here, got it for free so I just want to fix it up slowly, 47k miles and still going strong. Just hear a bit of valve ticking
@@TheDeepPlanetsounds good! So people are telling me is not valves tick since my bike doesn’t hesitate at all to start but they are saying the timing chain might be stretched and might need replacing. How hard is it to do ? I work on small 125cc motors but never taken a big motor apart and don’t wanna mess it up
No. There shouldn't be a ticking sound. Might need timing checked. Make sure your timing chain tensioner is reset before you put it back. How many kms has the bike done?
It is hard to tell from the audio. How does the bike perform? It may be a job for a mechanic but there is a guide in the manual on how to check the camshaft chain.
Johnson, very useful of yours. Nice job! Please, can you answer me question? I am part of an ER6n community and several members of us had the engine blown out. After long discussion, we got know the most cases were due to valve failure (a kind of fatigue), which consequently break the piston and twisted the rod. Later it makes a hole on lower part of the engine. In your opinion, is Kawasaki valve of this model the weakest point? Does it mean this engine cannot work at full throttle? Thanks in advance for anything which could be a little for us.
Hi Ags. I've read and heard many stories about the breaking valve issue. I believe it was a manufacturing fault the affected the 2005-2008 model. Some of the mechanics that I have spoken to have suggested that the clutch/gearbox are not great but I haven't seen much to confirm that. At the end of the day, this is not a " high performance" engine. I don't personally redline my bikes as I need them to get to work and can't afford the cost and down time. I think it's a great motor. Easy to work on, reliable, inexpensive and, most importantly, fun to ride. I'm building an er6n with a versys front end and motor (the motor in the video) and I'll be putting up videos of my journey soon. Can you send me an invite to your community? I would love to be a part of it and maybe we can share some knowledge...
@@TheDeepPlanet , absolutely, it'd be great pleasure to have you among our team. However, I am chatting from Brazil. There are no models of ER before 2010. It was commercialized in Brazil between 2010 up to 2017. Cases I have reported come from the newest models. Your conclusion matches our assumption. I'll share your viewpoint. Certainty, I'll follow your next videos and ride. There's plenty to learn. Thanks for your feedback.
@@MrAloysioguimaraes OK. That's very interesting! I've seen bikes for sale with the broken valve on the 2006 - 2008 model. As far as I know, they kept the motor pretty much the same. Thanks for your comments. Ride safe. 😎
It was the 2012 model onwards that had valve issues. Kawasaki said it was only bikes built in Indonesia that had the problem but i know of several riders, including myself, that have had a valve drop and destroy the engine. I believe it was down to the forging of the valves too low and the bike running far too lean
@@stiggydore4543 , I really agree with you. Mine is so economic like my fellow's. They reported me long mileage with a tank. Surely, their engines are running too lean. Nice comment of yours. That's the most logical conclusion.
Hey can you use the same valve cover gasket if it looks good still and just use the right torquing and a good sealer only done 6000 miles !! Had a small leak
Hi Ridley. Yes I use Mechanix originals which offer a good balance of protection and dexterity. They also work with touch screens which is great as I have my manual on my Tablet and I'll often need my phone to take reference photos etc. - www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwiF95f-sfT2AhUNmmYCHX1nDKoYABAPGgJzbQ&agsac=CPDUfX6JHQU&cit=CkUKCQjwxZqSBhDwARI0ABR75CuCKKOanEpHrQy_sQGs7QEizh1Ifyy-MrKwF-mih7c_ZJOsNucJKtbpTUxT0wsnrBoCvVTw_wcB&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESauD2ZCoZMhK7ydXrBBSVOACyBrsMdYQblIxudr8k0DIRmLuUNe3_NFSLOVQuK9CyyYsxe2ZM3gmO455yYfSjLklNw2UXwlP-SMtCR7ci6JLEbsGTHg8lMnXA-oFnkE6170-3xdSgx1JY7t0&sig=AOD64_0PBxGMA1b5p63CZeSCxQ5Qe5D_SA&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwib747-sfT2AhXByjgGHV-jBZUQwg96BAgBEAs&adurl=&ms=CoACBbcYmEcGkk7h91_6wsRtr8oDx1i8oxAeLFLX-cAN18NnpVEl6cuYDsh0eTlkb60hfQQ7MMKh5SVj3SFvAAADGUuViyo1U4vVxI4SLVPUmD5JyJKSI3_bgVZejm0znP4hDDoFJpqgj6yJShsmYVdauNxbaUKl1txskvh_4rn9D7QiGvpeb0SO1XaY21zz7tZbcN3FlrD-bH_30rplsiGuPAbymUWpf68r0ASX_rODGKEZuijlhIw2UCcTDdJtEdwOCVs5X3jkhgFIRXSPeBePwoJ_eFUXtOrhzYw2C0nAib3jTbJ7CcHc2rcnBjHjxNMpREhR5NeszDXTLU39VZefygqAAtp_x43_zQsl5ZdxvMP2Jx-HI05Tjg8mcdVTgjUAEVPsSyqUKIU9QoDerdhz0wDqzqxuAS6MVCjdvnhuejJ3l2RUHUqhP6cUPZxT77lGFb0VoVitlHB-JMCLs1qFKl3Vt1GC40mtBvGwtg4GxgL0dm-Jg-7QoYCrAEvLPU2y-Z1o5eqGhPH2agsk1VDuXpQd4RZpMt09M0fLYFcQZCxtme1uFT8JexS_6hgiN9WbzE14tKqGD7V5tn7KdOpNIgylfRqqMggO7QBKDAds21ebdhXdMLR65D7pUcbrfY5skff0t9ZCfC7bwHuxd8fpZv9Usu-qitqkCjohV-JWRVesCA0SEKS99JPwFKakjeqpGJu9UAM
Or, if I know I'm going to get a lot of grease/oil on the gloves I use these : www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/toolpro-toolpro-polyurethane-dipped-gloves---one-size-black/379792.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwxZqSBhAHEiwASr9n9FikbGhswFW0HLuwDgdqgqyzTb0bXD9pKBc-4taE3IHVitJdw-UOSBoCULcQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
It doesn't matter. If you turn it a little bit too far, then you can just turn it back,a little bit, until the marks line up. You don't have to turn it a full 360 degrees, again.
Hi Malkoy. You need to ensure that the timing chain is in the correct position and that the tensioner has been reset. How many miles.has the bike done?
@@TheDeepPlanet my bike traveled 16000m. I set the gap in accordance with the manual. intake 0,15-0,21мм exhaust 0,22-0,31мм. I set the timing marks according to the manual, first 1IT, the camshaft cams look up in different directions. Then 2lT.
Hi Malkoy. Timing chain should be fine after only 16000km. Did you check the tensioner? Also a good idea to check that the cams have been positioned correctly. Did you remove the cams or just check the gaps?
Massively under-rated channel.
Thanks mate. So much more to come but it's slow going as I have a full time job and two kids!!
@@TheDeepPlanet Aye that's fair - was useful for myself as I've not touched a motor that wasn't 125cc or below and attached to handheld garden or construction equipment since I did a motor vehicle course when I was a late teen.. I have a Ninja 650 with a knocking motor and I'm fairly confident I have the skills to tear it down and at least fix the immediate problem (my assumption is it's spun a bearing, but not 100% it hasn't screwed at least one of the cylinders - was down to running on one of two at one point but is back up to two from cold now, so also assuming it's not junk), and watching videos like this (even though you didn't dive too deep into the motor) gives me some confidence to at least try tearing the thing down. I'm surprised at how few videos there are on here documenting the process, given how often you can find the same sort of videos for car engines.
@@trotskiftw how did you go in the end?
@@innocuousmerchant8766 I stripped the engine down to figuring out it was a main bearing failure… mostly had the top end in bits and the bottom end still together.
I then totalled up how much it would cost in parts and tools to strip and rebuild the entire motor from that point and found that there was only a couple hundred difference in stripping and rebuilding vs buying a used motor (with less miles, but unknown history) so I opted for the used motor. Built the bike back up with the new engine and it ran perfect again. Managed to sell the busted motor in its various parts to a mechanic for the couple hundred difference that buying a working one cost me over rebuilding
@@trotskiftw what a bitch of an issue. any idea why your 650's motor did the main bearing in the first place?
Thanks for showing a good close up of the Cam, so I know exactly where the feeler guages are supposed to go. However, you didn't seem to replace any shims. I will probably need to know how to do that, too.
Hi Andrew. Thanks for watching. The valves were all in spec so I didn't need to change any shims. I'm planning on doing more vids and will do one on the valve adjustment when I get a chance. There is a chart in the workshop manual that shows how to calculate what thickness they need to be...
Very clear video, thank you for the demonstration!
Thanks! 😎
Pretty easy...
How come you barely have over 1000 views!!! The quality of the video and explanation is great!!
If I wanted to get the shims to actually adjust the valves, how would i order them??
Thanks for watching! You can get shim kits online (eBay) but it might be worth speaking to your local mechanic or dealership to see if you can order the shims individually.
awesome material. Thank you so much. I predict your channer will skyrocket soon!
Thanks so much. It's been three years of steady work. I really hope it does!!!
@@TheDeepPlanet word! looking forward for more fiddling with the engines. I have a er6f and your clip is just so helpful.
I'm building a hybrid between the er6n and the Versys and will be filming each step. Will be doing a compression test on the motor and then putting it into the frame if it's good...
To avoid spreading sealant everywhere while putting the valve cover back...can you apply the sealant on the head?
Hi mate. Absolutely. Either way is fine. Probably makes more sense to do it that way especially if the motor is in the bike.
My manual (ER6F) reports that this inspection has to be done after 42000km.
Thanks for sharing.
Yes. It really depends on how you ride, what oil and fuel you use too...
Frequent Oil changes, (and high quality oil) are extremely important to maintaining a long lasting engine.
Thanks for this video bro very informative 🤜🤛
Thanks man. Been a bit busy lately to put more content out. Comments like this really motivate me.
legend, thank you!
Hi Matt, just came across you, i am buying an ER6, (u.k) I wondered if you had made a video on the basic regular maintenances at all?
Hi there. Yes, I've done a few other videos on how to service the bike , replace the mechanical oil seal, change the brake pads. Planning on doing more in the coming months. Thanks for watching. 😎
Great video bro! Very well explained, I know you didn’t adjust but if I wanted to adjust I have to replace shims aswell? Or can I just adjust ? 2011 Versys 650 here, got it for free so I just want to fix it up slowly, 47k miles and still going strong. Just hear a bit of valve ticking
Hi Thanks! Yes you will need to adjust with new shims. I have been planning to make that video but just haven't had a chance. Thanks for watching! 🙂
@@TheDeepPlanetsounds good! So people are telling me is not valves tick since my bike doesn’t hesitate at all to start but they are saying the timing chain might be stretched and might need replacing. How hard is it to do ? I work on small 125cc motors but never taken a big motor apart and don’t wanna mess it up
@GheeAnth I haven't done a timing chain but I think you need to split the block for this...
Nice vídeo thanks for help me
Is ticking sound right while riding versys. The tick increases with rpm and it comes imo from valve head.
No. There shouldn't be a ticking sound. Might need timing checked. Make sure your timing chain tensioner is reset before you put it back. How many kms has the bike done?
@@TheDeepPlanet I bought it at 110k km, last week.
Hi testplmnb. That's pretty high mileage for a 650 parallel twin. I suspect you will need a new timing chain.
@@TheDeepPlanet Can you take a look on that video th-cam.com/users/shorts6TyVkdn-X7k?feature=share ?
It is hard to tell from the audio. How does the bike perform? It may be a job for a mechanic but there is a guide in the manual on how to check the camshaft chain.
Nice clear video. Thanks!
Thank you!!
Johnson, very useful of yours. Nice job! Please, can you answer me question? I am part of an ER6n community and several members of us had the engine blown out. After long discussion, we got know the most cases were due to valve failure (a kind of fatigue), which consequently break the piston and twisted the rod. Later it makes a hole on lower part of the engine. In your opinion, is Kawasaki valve of this model the weakest point? Does it mean this engine cannot work at full throttle? Thanks in advance for anything which could be a little for us.
Hi Ags. I've read and heard many stories about the breaking valve issue. I believe it was a manufacturing fault the affected the 2005-2008 model. Some of the mechanics that I have spoken to have suggested that the clutch/gearbox are not great but I haven't seen much to confirm that. At the end of the day, this is not a " high performance" engine. I don't personally redline my bikes as I need them to get to work and can't afford the cost and down time. I think it's a great motor. Easy to work on, reliable, inexpensive and, most importantly, fun to ride. I'm building an er6n with a versys front end and motor (the motor in the video) and I'll be putting up videos of my journey soon. Can you send me an invite to your community? I would love to be a part of it and maybe we can share some knowledge...
@@TheDeepPlanet , absolutely, it'd be great pleasure to have you among our team. However, I am chatting from Brazil. There are no models of ER before 2010. It was commercialized in Brazil between 2010 up to 2017. Cases I have reported come from the newest models. Your conclusion matches our assumption. I'll share your viewpoint. Certainty, I'll follow your next videos and ride. There's plenty to learn. Thanks for your feedback.
@@MrAloysioguimaraes OK. That's very interesting! I've seen bikes for sale with the broken valve on the 2006 - 2008 model. As far as I know, they kept the motor pretty much the same. Thanks for your comments. Ride safe. 😎
It was the 2012 model onwards that had valve issues. Kawasaki said it was only bikes built in Indonesia that had the problem but i know of several riders, including myself, that have had a valve drop and destroy the engine. I believe it was down to the forging of the valves too low and the bike running far too lean
@@stiggydore4543 , I really agree with you. Mine is so economic like my fellow's. They reported me long mileage with a tank. Surely, their engines are running too lean. Nice comment of yours. That's the most logical conclusion.
Hey can you use the same valve cover gasket if it looks good still and just use the right torquing and a good sealer
only done 6000 miles !! Had a small leak
Hi Aaron. I've never bought a new valve cover gasket. Always re-use them even though the manual recommends replacing it.
Hi.You have recommendation for non-single use gloves?
Hi Ridley. Yes I use Mechanix originals which offer a good balance of protection and dexterity. They also work with touch screens which is great as I have my manual on my Tablet and I'll often need my phone to take reference photos etc. - www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwiF95f-sfT2AhUNmmYCHX1nDKoYABAPGgJzbQ&agsac=CPDUfX6JHQU&cit=CkUKCQjwxZqSBhDwARI0ABR75CuCKKOanEpHrQy_sQGs7QEizh1Ifyy-MrKwF-mih7c_ZJOsNucJKtbpTUxT0wsnrBoCvVTw_wcB&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESauD2ZCoZMhK7ydXrBBSVOACyBrsMdYQblIxudr8k0DIRmLuUNe3_NFSLOVQuK9CyyYsxe2ZM3gmO455yYfSjLklNw2UXwlP-SMtCR7ci6JLEbsGTHg8lMnXA-oFnkE6170-3xdSgx1JY7t0&sig=AOD64_0PBxGMA1b5p63CZeSCxQ5Qe5D_SA&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwib747-sfT2AhXByjgGHV-jBZUQwg96BAgBEAs&adurl=&ms=CoACBbcYmEcGkk7h91_6wsRtr8oDx1i8oxAeLFLX-cAN18NnpVEl6cuYDsh0eTlkb60hfQQ7MMKh5SVj3SFvAAADGUuViyo1U4vVxI4SLVPUmD5JyJKSI3_bgVZejm0znP4hDDoFJpqgj6yJShsmYVdauNxbaUKl1txskvh_4rn9D7QiGvpeb0SO1XaY21zz7tZbcN3FlrD-bH_30rplsiGuPAbymUWpf68r0ASX_rODGKEZuijlhIw2UCcTDdJtEdwOCVs5X3jkhgFIRXSPeBePwoJ_eFUXtOrhzYw2C0nAib3jTbJ7CcHc2rcnBjHjxNMpREhR5NeszDXTLU39VZefygqAAtp_x43_zQsl5ZdxvMP2Jx-HI05Tjg8mcdVTgjUAEVPsSyqUKIU9QoDerdhz0wDqzqxuAS6MVCjdvnhuejJ3l2RUHUqhP6cUPZxT77lGFb0VoVitlHB-JMCLs1qFKl3Vt1GC40mtBvGwtg4GxgL0dm-Jg-7QoYCrAEvLPU2y-Z1o5eqGhPH2agsk1VDuXpQd4RZpMt09M0fLYFcQZCxtme1uFT8JexS_6hgiN9WbzE14tKqGD7V5tn7KdOpNIgylfRqqMggO7QBKDAds21ebdhXdMLR65D7pUcbrfY5skff0t9ZCfC7bwHuxd8fpZv9Usu-qitqkCjohV-JWRVesCA0SEKS99JPwFKakjeqpGJu9UAM
Or, if I know I'm going to get a lot of grease/oil on the gloves I use these :
www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/toolpro-toolpro-polyurethane-dipped-gloves---one-size-black/379792.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwxZqSBhAHEiwASr9n9FikbGhswFW0HLuwDgdqgqyzTb0bXD9pKBc-4taE3IHVitJdw-UOSBoCULcQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
When you are rotating to tdc what direction are you going? Clockwise? Does it matter?
Hi Shiela.Clockwise for sure. Not sure if it matters...
It doesn't matter. If you turn it a little bit too far, then you can just turn it back,a little bit, until the marks line up.
You don't have to turn it a full 360 degrees, again.
what is your motor years? my er is 2015 i fallow your way was not right. it will touch inside
Hi Wei.Mine is a 2009 motor. The method will be the same. Just check the manual for your model for the correct clearances.
What do I do if the marking is lined up but the cams are pointing at each other instead of away
Hi Sebastian. Turn the bolt again until the markings line up again, you'll see the cams will point outward...
Your motor is not in the correct position, yet. Try again.
(Just make sure that it's a Kawasaki motor).
✌️🤩👍
Tell me what valve clearances should be on er6?
set the gaps average according to the manual, in the engine there is still a clatter of valves on the warmed up
Might be you timing chain ?
Hi Malkoy. You need to ensure that the timing chain is in the correct position and that the tensioner has been reset. How many miles.has the bike done?
@@TheDeepPlanet my bike traveled 16000m. I set the gap in accordance with the manual. intake 0,15-0,21мм exhaust 0,22-0,31мм.
I set the timing marks according to the manual, first 1IT, the camshaft cams look up in different directions. Then 2lT.
Hi Malkoy. Timing chain should be fine after only 16000km. Did you check the tensioner? Also a good idea to check that the cams have been positioned correctly. Did you remove the cams or just check the gaps?
What is that 1-T for?
I'll have to double check the manual but it's to do with timing.
👍👍👍
😎
M❤