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i have a small fab shop, i do most stuff for fisherman and they all have scrap that they want things built from!! in many cases it cheaper to buy new clean stock , most scrap they have has spent many hrs in the ocean and salt soaks into the metals! so i have learned how to work their scrap to usable, i love my atlas lathe! but like you said taking lots off do take time
Great job bumping that piece true in the 3-jaw. I am, however, amazed you got that point cut with all that overhang. You made it happen, though, so good on ya.
Nice job Richard! After running my big lathe for years it spoiled me. .5 inch all day.😎 A small lathe is better than no lathe that's for sure 👍Thanks for sharing
yes this tread bar have a much tension because they are make it in the tread rolling machines and this machines are pressing and rolling in the machine and you cane say that is similar as cold forging
Since acquiring and old atlas lathe I have made dozens of seal driver bushing drivers liner pullers exhaust flange dies life is definitely better with a lathe would not be able to get buy without one
I see your bleeding Richard. The old girl is telling you she hasn't seen enough action. Lol. If I manage to come in and not have been bleeding it has been an extremely good day. Or I didn't do any lathe work. Nice project and good job. Good to here from you.
I can see there are some limits with small lathes. Not sure what it's the max rpm on that machine? I still believe you could benefit with a better insert.. There are inserts that are made to take light cut like 4-10 thou with small feedrate and still manage to brakes the chips. Here's one example from Kennametal: www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0771SFM75/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525492134&sr=1-1&refinements=p_style_name%3ATPMT%2Cp_89%3AKennametal&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&dpPl=1&dpID=41lCKkFu7UL&ref=plSrch
No way you should pay that much for single insert! Usually those inserts costs about 8€/piece.. I've been cnc machinist 12 years and I know what difference a good and bad insert makes! I'm not trying to offend you. Just thought I give you a good advise :)
I would love to have top notch tooling and inserts for the lathe but run the shop and this channel on a shoestring budget. In the last year or so I have been fortunate to take on customer jobs, including some work for viewers that has allowed me to slowly acquire some new items for the shop like the small mill I got late last year. Anything I make from jobs in my shop gets reinvested back in the shop. I took no offense Matti, I am slowly but surely working my way up to getting everything I need to do better quality work....wish I had gotten my lathe 10 years ago as I really love machining :) ~ Richard
In this material .040 to .050 DOC (.080 -.100 off the OD) is all this lathe would do. I didnt have great engagement chucking on threads and didnt wanna risk the stock moving in the chuck from tool pressure. I coulda tried left hand turning....saw you do that to avoid that issue many times 😎
Why did the tool need to be made in two pieces screwed together (plus the tip =3) when it looks like one long punch and you could have turned it in one piece?
Thanks for chiming in Shaun...I will put it on the schedule. I dont get many requests from viewers but will be glad to share how I make a set... be sure & subscribe so you dont miss when it comes out 😊
Makin Sumthin From Nuthi. Another request then please 😀. I have watched a few videos on how to make a thread on a lathe but it’s not sinking in, if I want to make a 8mm bolt, I take it I thin the bar stock to 8mm but I don’t know how deep to cut the threads. And then making the nut for it, Iv still not got any to match up after many attempts! Please do a tutorial 🙏. Cheers
Shaun, you bring up a really good subject. I believe I am gonna do a video on that subject now that you brought it up for discussion. For reference, you want to turn your bar to about .005 UNDER your 8mm so you have some clearance before turning the thread....it all depends on what class of thread you need honestly. Subscribe....I will do a video on this subject...I think its worthy :) ~ Richard
I didnt think the brass fingers on the steady rest would survive holding a machine screw. I had no way to turn a section to have a smooth surface for the steady
I guess I was not very clear, what I should have stated was while you were preparing to bore and thread the 5/16 18 treads in the pointed end. At this point you had quite a lon stick out that was unsupported with not much held in the jaws. Please don't get me wrong, you do nice work and I like what you do. You did have enough support for the task or it would have gone very differently. For me, I would not have had the confidence to proceed without a steady rest. Thanks, Richard
You have a great point. I probably should have slapped on the steady for that operation. Turning the point had me more comcerned than the drill/tap...shoulda used it there too..LOL
Hi amigo! Excellent video as always. I think that's a good size stud bolt you started with. My guess anyway. Do you have a website or email I can contact you with?
When recommending to use a dead center you should mention its lubrication. Normal oil or grease is not up to the task. You need to use extreme pressure grease. Only that lube will hold up without wallowing out the center hole and heating up the work and dead center. (Your dead center looked plenty discolored. It must have been hot a few times... ;-) (Oops. Sorry I was wrong. The discoloration is from annealing it after hardening as I found out in your video "Making a HALF DEAD CENTER and Why You Need One! ")
Love this channel! Question though.. I've never seen anyone hold a center drill with a collet chuck like that. It is better than using a jacobs chuck? Or is it just what you have on hand to work with?
Btw, it is better to use a collet in your tailstock rather than jacobs chucks as collets will never allow a bit (drill, center drill, reamer etc) to spin. Avoids damage to your tooling and damage to the chuck jaws.
Very interesting video!! One thing, don't talk when you speed the video up because you sound like Alvin from the Chipmunks! Just subscribed today, keep up the very good and interesting videos. Thank you.
Much appreciated Andy! I usually shoot 2 hours worth of video to make a 15-20 min video for y'all to watch so I dont know at the time which parts may be sped up. Hopefully you enjoy part 2 where I finish up the project 😊
A couple of observations from a very amateur machinist, so please take these with a grain of salt. Firstly, were you lubricating the stock to help keep your insert/material cool? It didn't appear so. Lubrication/coolant my have aided a better surface finish. Secondly, using a centering tool (eg: 1/2" square stock with bearing mounted to the end mounted in the tool post ) makes recentering machined part SO much easier. Not sure if you used one of those. Thirdly, trying to drill a part with a long shank drill is just asking for the bit to wander. Did you pilot drill the hole first? Please don't think that I'm having a go at you because I'm not. Like I said, I am an amateur machinist who is trying to improve and I'd say there are lots of others like me. Videos like yours are valuable for learning. Thanks for posting.
Not common, but they are out there. You can watch the video of when I first got it and I give a good overview of it showing the entire machine. I put the video up Sept/Oct 2016 th-cam.com/video/8uRk_e8U4-Q/w-d-xo.html
I generally dont use oil when turning OD's, the material was machining fine without it. I think I used some oil while turning off the threads when you saw smoke
I also got a Rockwell upright band saw for 25 you wouldn't believe the stuff you can find at a recycling or scrap place or the dump .when your on a fixed income you have to improvise
Please Consider Supporting MSFN To Help Pay For Supplies Needed For Future Video Projects, Even a Small Donation Goes a Long Way!
www.paypal.me/MSFN (Paypal Only)
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i have a small fab shop, i do most stuff for fisherman and they all have scrap that they want things built from!! in many cases it cheaper to buy new clean stock , most scrap they have has spent many hrs in the ocean and salt soaks into the metals! so i have learned how to work their scrap to usable,
i love my atlas lathe! but like you said taking lots off do take time
YUP!!
good job so far working with that old starly piece of threaded rod. going to watch part 2 now thanks.
Thanks Jamie, it was a fun project....was good quality steel for sure
nice video. Miss my old Atlas, but still have my Logan and Craftsman lathes. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Sky, its my first and only lathe....not a bad machine. I can make some nice stuff on it ~ Richard
I sent you a PM, check it out when you have the time. Appreciate it.
Reply sent :)
You're something else you do some great work with that lathe
Thanks Brian, hope you enjoy Part 2 that is up, some good machine footage in that one as well ~ Richard
Great job bumping that piece true in the 3-jaw. I am, however, amazed you got that point cut with all that overhang. You made it happen, though, so good on ya.
Was an odd piece to hold, a better order of operations woula resolved that. Good to see you Rick
Nice job Richard! After running my big lathe for years it spoiled me. .5 inch all day.😎 A small lathe is better than no lathe that's for sure 👍Thanks for sharing
.5" all day.... 😐
Thanks for stopping by Steve :) ~ Richard
Turning in sandals, nice.
Wow really? Hahha any-who, I always enjoying machining videos!
yes this tread bar have a much tension because they are make it in the tread rolling machines and this machines are pressing and rolling in the machine and you cane say that is similar as cold forging
Now off to watch the second half .... :-)
Good to see you Joe ~ Richard
Since acquiring and old atlas lathe I have made dozens of seal driver bushing drivers liner pullers exhaust flange dies life is definitely better with a lathe would not be able to get buy without one
I love having a Lathe....awesome machines :)
The problem with threaded rod is, it's never straight and not threaded on center.
Nice material once you get it concentric tho, thx for watching!
Agreed. And, you cant beat the price! I had only mentioned it because you thought you may not have centered it properly.
You were absolutely right, it was centered well but that one side still had about .030 to clean up....dont forget to watch part 2 :)
I see your bleeding Richard. The old girl is telling you she hasn't seen enough action. Lol. If I manage to come in and not have been bleeding it has been an extremely good day. Or I didn't do any lathe work. Nice project and good job. Good to here from you.
Thanks Anthony, nothing groundbreaking here today but some good footage tho :) ~ Richard
I know those bolt materials can be really stingy stuff.. But you should consider buying some inserts with better chip breaker for small cuts :)
Was on highest feed rate I had, still wouldnt break a chip....nice material tho
I can see there are some limits with small lathes. Not sure what it's the max rpm on that machine? I still believe you could benefit with a better insert.. There are inserts that are made to take light cut like 4-10 thou with small feedrate and still manage to brakes the chips. Here's one example from Kennametal: www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0771SFM75/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525492134&sr=1-1&refinements=p_style_name%3ATPMT%2Cp_89%3AKennametal&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&dpPl=1&dpID=41lCKkFu7UL&ref=plSrch
I would love better tooling, but at $28 per insert....seeing a picture on amazon is about as close as I would ever come to owning one of those...LOL
No way you should pay that much for single insert! Usually those inserts costs about 8€/piece.. I've been cnc machinist 12 years and I know what difference a good and bad insert makes! I'm not trying to offend you. Just thought I give you a good advise :)
I would love to have top notch tooling and inserts for the lathe but run the shop and this channel on a shoestring budget. In the last year or so I have been fortunate to take on customer jobs, including some work for viewers that has allowed me to slowly acquire some new items for the shop like the small mill I got late last year. Anything I make from jobs in my shop gets reinvested back in the shop. I took no offense Matti, I am slowly but surely working my way up to getting everything I need to do better quality work....wish I had gotten my lathe 10 years ago as I really love machining :) ~ Richard
Woke up at 5am so time to watch part 1 and 2 before work. Hey Richard at 12.15 what size max can you cut and feel comfortable?
In this material .040 to .050 DOC (.080 -.100 off the OD) is all this lathe would do. I didnt have great engagement chucking on threads and didnt wanna risk the stock moving in the chuck from tool pressure. I coulda tried left hand turning....saw you do that to avoid that issue many times 😎
Why did the tool need to be made in two pieces screwed together (plus the tip =3) when it looks like one long punch and you could have turned it in one piece?
Nice video. Have you done one on the making of the soft jaws?
No I hadnt, but since I need new ones I might if there is interest....it pretty easy
Makin Sumthin From Nuthin Yes please. Thanks for sharing your time and knowledge! Cheers
Thanks for chiming in Shaun...I will put it on the schedule. I dont get many requests from viewers but will be glad to share how I make a set... be sure & subscribe so you dont miss when it comes out 😊
Makin Sumthin From Nuthi. Another request then please 😀. I have watched a few videos on how to make a thread on a lathe but it’s not sinking in, if I want to make a 8mm bolt, I take it I thin the bar stock to 8mm but I don’t know how deep to cut the threads. And then making the nut for it, Iv still not got any to match up after many attempts! Please do a tutorial 🙏. Cheers
Shaun, you bring up a really good subject. I believe I am gonna do a video on that subject now that you brought it up for discussion. For reference, you want to turn your bar to about .005 UNDER your 8mm so you have some clearance before turning the thread....it all depends on what class of thread you need honestly. Subscribe....I will do a video on this subject...I think its worthy :) ~ Richard
Nice but why didn't you use your steady rest to hold your piece? Richard
I didnt think the brass fingers on the steady rest would survive holding a machine screw. I had no way to turn a section to have a smooth surface for the steady
I guess I was not very clear, what I should have stated was while you were preparing to bore and thread the 5/16 18 treads in the pointed end. At this point you had quite a lon stick out that was unsupported with not much held in the jaws. Please don't get me wrong, you do nice work and I like what you do. You did have enough support for the task or it would have gone very differently. For me, I would not have had the confidence to proceed without a steady rest. Thanks, Richard
Also I forgot to say that I agree the brass would not hold up to those threads, I would have done the same thing as you!
You have a great point. I probably should have slapped on the steady for that operation. Turning the point had me more comcerned than the drill/tap...shoulda used it there too..LOL
Thanks
Hi amigo! Excellent video as always. I think that's a good size stud bolt you started with. My guess anyway. Do you have a website or email I can contact you with?
Thanks Rolando, my email address is in the description section of my videos :)
Makin Sumthin From Nuthin -----
Lol, I'll make sure to have more coffee before replying next time. Thanks Richard!
Shoot me an email at your convenience...I always answer promptly :)
When recommending to use a dead center you should mention its lubrication. Normal oil or grease is not up to the task. You need to use extreme pressure grease. Only that lube will hold up without wallowing out the center hole and heating up the work and dead center. (Your dead center looked plenty discolored. It must have been hot a few times... ;-) (Oops. Sorry I was wrong. The discoloration is from annealing it after hardening as I found out in your video "Making a HALF DEAD CENTER and Why You Need One! ")
Yep, I agree 100%, I appreciate you checking out the channel
Love this channel! Question though.. I've never seen anyone hold a center drill with a collet chuck like that. It is better than using a jacobs chuck? Or is it just what you have on hand to work with?
Jacobs chuck is fine, I use the collet as a dedicated center drill holder....part 2 is now uploaded if you care to check it out ~ Richard
Cool! Thanks for the reply. I'm a newbie so I thought I was doing it wrong or something.
I have only had my Lathe for about a year and a half :)
Btw, it is better to use a collet in your tailstock rather than jacobs chucks as collets will never allow a bit (drill, center drill, reamer etc) to spin. Avoids damage to your tooling and damage to the chuck jaws.
Very interesting video!! One thing, don't talk when you speed the video up because you sound like Alvin from the Chipmunks! Just subscribed today, keep up the very good and interesting videos. Thank you.
Much appreciated Andy! I usually shoot 2 hours worth of video to make a 15-20 min video for y'all to watch so I dont know at the time which parts may be sped up. Hopefully you enjoy part 2 where I finish up the project 😊
The work got a bit warm ?
It did until I got under the threads, then most of the heat was concentrated in the chip.
A couple of observations from a very amateur machinist, so please take these with a grain of salt.
Firstly, were you lubricating the stock to help keep your insert/material cool? It didn't appear so. Lubrication/coolant my have aided a better surface finish.
Secondly, using a centering tool (eg: 1/2" square stock with bearing mounted to the end mounted in the tool post ) makes recentering machined part SO much easier. Not sure if you used one of those.
Thirdly, trying to drill a part with a long shank drill is just asking for the bit to wander. Did you pilot drill the hole first?
Please don't think that I'm having a go at you because I'm not. Like I said, I am an amateur machinist who is trying to improve and I'd say there are lots of others like me. Videos like yours are valuable for learning. Thanks for posting.
No worries, thanks for the suggestions and happy machining! 😊
what lathe do you own
Its a Commercial Atlas 12 x 36, underdrive model
thanks, now time to hit CL to look for one.
Not common, but they are out there. You can watch the video of when I first got it and I give a good overview of it showing the entire machine. I put the video up Sept/Oct 2016 th-cam.com/video/8uRk_e8U4-Q/w-d-xo.html
Wish i had a Lathe
I sold my boat to buy mine, was a good trade
Yeah Boats just cost money a lathe will make you money especially with your talent
Thanks...I appreciate ya
What state do you live in gage?
Shane K do I know you??
Can I ask why you don't use oil when you're working this piece?
I generally dont use oil when turning OD's, the material was machining fine without it. I think I used some oil while turning off the threads when you saw smoke
W1 tool steel, costs nothing.?
I had some laying around, its not all that expensive
"making something for nothing" LOL
Yep, brothers dont pay well! Lol
Are you seriously wearing goddamned FLIP FLOPS with those horrendously stringy chips flying about!? Really?
Of course not, it was trick photography :)
One day something heavy is going to fall on his foot and make him limp for the rest of his life, then he will be sorry he joked about it.
not a pancake compressor shame lol
I like pancakes with sausage & eggs :-)
I can tell by the sound its very small I went to the scrap yard and got a broken 5 h 60 gallon just needed a new fly weal for 50 bucks .
Niceeee!!
I also got a Rockwell upright band saw for 25 you wouldn't believe the stuff you can find at a recycling or scrap place or the dump .when your on a fixed income you have to improvise
I doubt that's junk.... Probably 4140 HT.
I think you are right, was great material in the end