Progressive Suspension Fork Spring Install | Iron 883 Sportster Build Ep. 10
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.ย. 2019
- Progressive Suspension Fork Springs - amzn.to/3d8QILE
Fork Cap Tool by Motion Pro - amzn.to/2N3ezSi
H-D Type E Fork Oil
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Mustang Fastback Seat (3.3 Gallon Tank) - amzn.to/30IPyDY
Krator Quarter Fairing - amzn.to/37yev6x
Bung King 39mm Quarter Fairing Brackets - amzn.to/3fpQnFZ
Wisamic LED Headlight - amzn.to/2C20ySD
Smoked Turn Signal Lense Kit - amzn.to/2YAGZIY
Shinko 777 Front Tire (non-reflective sidewall) - amzn.to/3d5JEj5
Shinko 777 Rear Tire (non-reflective sidewall) - amzn.to/30Jlfgr
![[UNCUT] ที่นี่ที่แรก ปู - หาญส์ พูดถึงมหากาพย์หนี้สิ้น I คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ I 10 ก.ค.67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KDNA9DZ0p4U/mqdefault.jpg)
You have to loosen the top fork clamp bolt on the tree to take the pressure off the top of the fork which takes pressure of the top nut, makes removing them a lot easier. Nice bike though.
What's the difference between yours Progressive Suspension 11-1527 18.5 Progressive Rate Fork Spring,Black verses the 11-1577 that only shows on their website for a 2019 Harley 883?
The measurement of the oil is provided by progressive in the instructions. " 5in down from the top of the fork tube". You need to measure that with the forks fully collapsed and the springs in the fork tubes. When you put in the springs in will have an effect on the level of the oil in the tube......
I measured with the springs in the tubes and the fork "fully" collapsed however, the fork boots were still on. The Progressive instructions only state that 5.5in is the max oil level... I drained 9oz so I added exactly 9oz which fell within progressives safe oil level range. Tubes feel like they could use some stiffening with more oil since they are not yet at the max level.
My 2015 XL 883N the service manual (Clymer) states 14oz. That's what I put back in using 15W and stock springs with an extra washer for a little more preload. I had to remove the forks and dump out all the stinky oil. No drain plugs on a 2015. Oil level was just under the top of the OEM spring when fully collapsed looking down inside. The manual doesn't state if the spring should be in or out? Maybe Clymer didn't know for sure? Careful taking the caps off could put your eye out!
not sure if u have fixed it yet but removing the forks makes it easier and u need to pump the forks to empty and when you fill them back up with new fluid. if you have the forks all the way up it won't give you such resistance when you unscrew the top.
Hey, With this progressive kit, how many inches you lowered the front end?
Monir Mahdi Hi, lowering the front end is not the purpose of these springs. I raised the front with extended damper tubes. That video is coming soon! I suppose you could lower the front with shorter damper tubes.
Always cover your tank and fender!!
It’s a 2011 right ? Bc my set up is the same and I just got it I’m trying to do a full work up; I’m thinking to either do it before summer or after summer Bc I’m trying to paint it and swap the rear suspension with ohlins and do what you did to the front forks .. do you need the owner’s manual? Bc mine didn’t come with one; should I buy one from online so this way I have the torque specs etc and all other info or it isn’t necessary; Mybad to hit you with a million questions, but I’m pumped to do stuff to it but I definitely don’t want to fk it up lol
I’m installing the mono tube progressive. I recommend using the manual and not following these instructions. I looked through the manual and I’m watching videos for pitfalls along the way. This is the worst video I’ve seen and probably the furthest method from the manual. Just saying
fill it till you can remove it from the tube and then once you can it will be the correct level.
edvko I went back and put trackerdie dampers. I took the forks out of the trees to allow fork to level and fully collapse. Added 12oz and used the syringe to pull out the excess.
the manual states that springs need to be installed to the damper rod. why didnt you do that step?.
Not sure what step you’re referring to but if I remember correctly, there are two springs and the damper rod goes through the little spring. Video is not meant to be a how to. Definitely follow the manual.
I mean the only thing that’s a little discouraging is the fact that I don’t know how you came about draining the oil from the front forks everything else with the video is pretty useful I’m even wearing my OSHA approved slippers but I don’t see no drain plug on mine 2014 iron
If no drain screw there is a bolt on the bottom of the legs. Have to remove the brake, axle and wheel. Need a long metric hex
What size is the socket?
This was a Motion Pro socket specifically for 39mm forks. They don't specify a size only that its for 39mm forks. I have read that others have used a 1 3/8 inch, 35mm or 36mm socket.
Jack the wheel up brother.
I guess this is a tutorial of how NOT to replace your fork springs?🤷🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤣. JK. Thanks for posting. Sweet bike! Thinking about the same springs or maybe some by race tech for a firmer ride.
I love that you guys bought a specialty socket for fork tube caps so you could ensure you didn’t scratch cap.... but then you dropped them anyways. Unload forks before doing this next time so you don’t injure yourself or mess up cap/ internal fork threads. 🙄 😒
Yeah I defiantly should have unloaded the forks, lesson learned.
@@twinsmotogarage1866 You should turn the front and rear suspension into a full rigid suspension and go off roading with your boyfriend on the back.
This was not the correct way to install and adjust a Progressive spring kit. The forks should be off the bike so you can do all fluid measurements on a level surface. You also didn't add enough fork oil...
rockgin 100%, thanks for the comment. I mention fluid level issue at the end of the video. When I added tracker die dampers I took the forks off and redid the fluid. Forks feel much better after.
@@twinsmotogarage1866 Excellent. Also...I usually slightly increase the pvc shim length by .25 to .5" if the rider rides a little more aggressively on the road.
at 7:54 putting more tightly wound Springs on the bottom is incorrect. The whole idea behind the progressive rate spring is that it provides increasing resistance as the spring compresses. The more tightly wound coils provide that additional resistance at the top of the compression stroke, while the more loosely wound coils provide a softer ride at the bottom of the compression stroke.
If the springs are reversed, they will still function, but you negate the effectiveness on the progressive design.
There are several other things I could have done better on this install but this part is straight from the manufacture's instructions, "Mechanically, it makes no difference which way the springs are installed. Some manuals will state; install the spring with the close wound end towards the bottom. This is done because sometimes there will be less spring noise. The springs will perform exactly the same regardless of which direction they are placed."
It clearly states in progressives instruction sheet that the orientation of the spring does not matter.