@@JimmyShawsTidbits1 Hi Jimmy, did you have any problem with z movement after putting on tha anti z wobble? They are a little larger than the rods and before they lock the nut to make it turn on the screw they turn a bit making a "tac noise". Idk if it is a real problem or just my paranoya, let me know.
Greetings Jimmy, This is probably the best video I've come across on print bed calibration yet. It was a delight to watch and learn, and I've been doing a lot of that since assembling my AnyCubic Prusa i3 Mendel kitset. I sure appreciate the quality of your vid... great lighting, sound, detail and beautifully presented. Just signed up to your video portal - so much USEFUL stuff there that goes beyond blue ducks and toys (not to put them down) :) John
+Qyuubi786 I do it that way so that when the extruder moves sideways and pulls the filament from the spool, the PLA doesn't pinch at the top of the extruder and break. It's just something I do as insurance.
Hi ya, great video, Random question, could you possibly show a picture of the levelling screw, I nothing you had a screw on it! Mine doesn’t have one on, I presume it makes it a lot easier while adjusting things,
Thanks for the vids! I have the same printer but the acrylic version (aluminum was out of stock) so they are quite helpful and informative. Keep em' coming, brother! :-)
I have basically completed assembly of the printer (need to add much needed extruder cooling fan). When I try to "Home All," the stepper motors seem to be going in the correct direction. However, when the bed reaches the Z-stop and the switch is triggered, it looks like my left Z motor gets stuck a bit and clicks a couple of times (anti-Z wobble piece doesn't actually contact the coupler). Do you think I need to raise the couplers on the Z-axis since I added the anti-Z wobble fittings? If so, how much? The directions were not very clear about how high to mount the couplers away from the Z-motors. Thanks!
Great videos ! At the beginning of video you measured to the bed, for Z axis level. I would recommend to measure for level on Z Axis , from X axis rods to a fixed spot on vertical frame, like just below the Lcd panel. The bed could be completely out of level. Just a thought.
I just got one of the acrylic geeetech PRO B printers this afternoon for $75 from a man moving out of Seattle. My gain. I want to add to Cura, what printer do I use from the lists?
Just starting out with 3D printing and finding your TH-cam and Toms TH-cam channel a great help. I have one question what glass do you use on your bed. Thanks for sharing and keep up the good work.
hi Jimmy I have got my printer and got it all hooked up just have a problem when i go to home to set up my bed every thing goes the wrong way ie Z goes up and not down y and x also do the opposite , instead of going to the micro swich they go the opposite way and I have to cut off the power so's not to burn anything . I would be greatful if you could help me thanks in advance marcus
+Marcus Parkes I remember something in the manual about if that happens. Unfortunately I'm still in Colorado on vacation and have limited Internet access. I'm sure you have already, but please double check all the wiring to be they are plugged in to the correct sockets on the board and also that they didn't happen to get plugged in the wrong way around since sometimes the little plastic nubs that are suposed to orentate the connectors the right way are almost nonexistent. If all that is correct, please email technical@geeetech.com they can walk you thru the steps of reversing the stepper motor in the firmware. Sorry I couldn't be better help. I hope you get up and printing soon.
Hi I had the same problem with the x and y axis cables. The solution is to invert the cables. So cut the 4 cables on one side and switch their order around then solder them.
Hahaha so true about the wife thing you better answer it when she calls lol 😂 Wow why can't everyone be as clear and straight to the point on how to adjust the 3d printer your very helpful and so easy to understand 👍 Thank you
Hi Jimmy I'm completly new to this , I have just ordered my first printer 2 days ago , from banggood , knowing full well that its going to take at least a month to get here , so in the meanwhile I'm checking things out , I have tons of questions , which areprobably not for now like just one of them , what filament shoud I use ie diameter , plus what nozzle ? and many more newby questions like that . enjoyed your vid , can't wait till mine gets here then I will be asking you soooo many questions !!!!! ha ha big thumbs up from me , cheers Marcus
+Marcus Parkes if it's the same printer, it uses 1.75 mm filament, but please double check the specifications to be sure. Most generally they come with a .4mm nozzle which is a good all around nozzle. If you want to print extremely detailed models, you might want to use a finer nozzle like a .3mm or .2mm. You will definitely enjoy it. I will definitely be happy to answer your questions. And thank you so much for watching.
Thanks for the video Jimmy. You confirmed that I am doing my bed leveling the same way you do. So that must not be my issue. I will say that I have not had any issues with prints sticking to the bed using Hatchbox PLA. I am having other issues with some of my prints but I blame that on myself for being a noob with the slicing programs. Can you share what your "normal" settings are for PLA?
+Fuganater the fan really helped with bridging. There are alot of different fan setups you can try as well. When you have a chance check out the Geeetech Aluminum Prusa I3 group on Thiniverse. A few of us have been adding some different designs on there. Instead of having to search Thingiverse.com for them, you can find them all in one place at www.Thingiverse.com/groups/geeetech-aluminum-prusai3-owner
+Jimmy Shaw's Tidbits I'll send you a picture via Facebook tomorrow. It starts out ok then the filament comes out in like chunks and also my infill gets super stringy and is not supportive at all. I was using the crap program that comes with it but that is junk. I then switched to Simplify3d and the print was AMAZING. Then I tried to remake the anti z wobble parts with S3D and they were crap. Same settings as the good print but IDK what the deal is.
Hi I think the locking rings on you x axis shafts should go in the inside of the x axis shafts to stop the x belt tension from squeezing in the z axis shafts inwards, as well as stopping the shafts from sliding out. I have this printer and I had nothing but dramas, as soon as I swapped the lockers my problem was fixed "not to say you have any problems" its just an observation . Thumbs up for the vid, loved it.
my printer the print isn't sticking to the bed it just like rolls of the glass and gathers around the nozzle is this because the bed is too far away from the nozzle or because I should put tape on the glass or something? Also would it be easier to level the bed in an X shape rather than a square shape? So do bottom left corner then top right then bottom right and then top left?
+Michael Whitney Are you leveling your bed with 1 sheet of paper between the nozzle and the glass? Yes, you should use tape, glue hair spray, or purchase a sheet of buildtak. Printing directly on glass without anything to adhere to can cause this problem as well. As far as a pattern goes, do what ever you feel is right. It doesn't matter what pattern you use as long as you can feel a slight drag on the paper as you move it between the print bed and the nozzle.
I'm using feeler gauges a .004 thou one which I believe to be the thickness of paper. Think I made the mistake of not checking the height with the nozzle in the center of the build plate first and then also was using a 0.2 and then tried a 0.1 first layer height with no luck oddly setting the layer height to 0.35 it actually stuck. Still curled tho and came completely unstuck just before printing the first top layer of a 2 cm cube. Seems to have quite a bit of z wobble as well here's some pictures of the cube could you tell me if that is indeed Z wobble? goo.gl/photos/juRv23Q6jq8XnFmi6 I've ordered some buildtak won't be here until Friday though annoyingly I've also ordered some lead screws that should arrive tomorrow though will no doubt have fun trying to get the Z axis to move the correct amount as the threads will be different but hopefully will help get rid of Z wobble. Tbf can clearly see my threaded rods moving side to side and I'm certain I can see the hot end moving about too though not sure if it's just my imagination lol no way to properly check it but that cube looks to have Z wobble to me but I'm not experienced at 3D printing so need a second opinion from someone like yourself who's more experienced than I am.
+Michael Whitney It looks like s combination of things. It does look like Z wobble, but speed and possibility temperature issues too. What is the maximum print speed that you are running?
I have just build mine. I3 prusa pro b Same as yours but I noticed u put spring in the end stop screw and added fan to cool the plastic after extruded. So on cura u put .3. Not 4 ?
Rc Vulcan Yes. The spring is to keep tension on the screw so it doesn't move. It said to put it there in the instructions when I built the printer. The fan helps alot when printing with PLA. In Cura the nozzle size is set to 0.4mm.
Hey Jimmy, thanks for the vid again.. learning lots. Would it be possible to see how your filament is fed? meaning from spool holder to extruder? any guides or filter etc.. My Geeetech Prusa I3 Pro should be arriving today or tomorrow... then the fun begins... hehehe Thanks again, and keep the vids cuming... Reg
+MrRegzxzx sure, I'm going to be working on the extruder this weekend. All I have is the spool holder, a filament guide on the top of the printer to keep the filament from dragging across the aluminum, and then straight to the extruder. I haven't tried a oiler yet. Thanks for watching, and please let me know how you like your new Pro. I like the looks of that machine.
+Jimmy Shaw's Tidbits Hey Jimmy, I got my Pro, now all build and working pretty good. Not much problems building it, few quirks, but I improvised and fixed all up. Seeing your vids ahead of time was really helpful. The box looks pretty good, but I did have a major problem with it at the beginning, one of the sub board inside had a solder short and it took me 2 days to figure it out, I tough it was the GT2560 board,, oouff... Any how, if you would like, I can take all around pics and small vids (with my phone) and put them on Google drive for you to see... Not a youtube star :-) take care and cheers. Reg
+Jimmy Shaw's Tidbits It's pretty good, I'm still learning about all the settings and all, using Repetier with cura.. so I'm learning a lot. I just figured out how to make sure my prints start in dead center of bed. (that took me a while! hahaha) I'll make a small vid tonight.
+Paul Amato Hi Paul! You can find my Cura settings in this video. th-cam.com/video/RNaR8-W8bvA/w-d-xo.html I never updated the firmware. In fact I have never connected the computer to it. I only print using a SD card.
Hello, is there any way that you can email the exact firmware that is running on yours. I put the new marlin on mine but waiting on new step drives because the voltage regulators on 2 or mine are defective. I just want to compare my settings to yours. Im running the Sanguinololu rev 1.3a. By the way awsome to see your printer doing work.
I found a spot in the Firmware to reverse the motor direction for firmware manuals control under config printer but home still goes back wards. Tried it using home like it is shown in this video with panel and home still hard right, up and forward. all opposite the stops.
I think I have a solution. It will be a few hours before I can get home to try it (dang job lol) but it appears to be as simple as swapping the connector on the motor which will require cutting the key off. The commentator on the Repetier FB page mention this as well as going into firmware. I'm not a Software guy so I will try the wiring first. 4 wire stepper motors drawing show wire 1 and 2 going to A coil and wires 3 & 4 going to B coil. Flipping the connector should make it change direction. adding link but searching stepper motor wiring should get you to it. ebldc.com/?p=253
I have the same printer (the acrylic version) and mine came with the x axis reversed. Changed in the firmware. www.geeetech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=17037
I usually would have to level it after every 4 or 5 prints. Now with the new Geeetech printers with the super plate its pretty much only after making changes to the machine.
No worries. I've tried Cura but never managed to get it to connect to my printer (this one or the Printrbot LC I had previously). Is there a trick to that I'm unaware of?
Jimmy Shaw's Tidbits Yeah...though not a requirement of course. I've always done it that way in Repetier. For what it's worth, I've been having problems with the hot end they supplied (it want put together tightly so it oozed all over the place) so I'm not printing yet anyway.
+Sadok Barbouch Do you have the springs compressed a little on the print bed, or are they almost to the top position? I ask because if the springs are compressed about half way, I find that I don't need to level as often.
I think my printer got jammed I have the same printer. I can't make the 1st layer right the filament stop moving down but the gear is moving so there's some skipping in the layer I already clean the nozzle but nothings change.
the fillament start softening at the heat break is it normal? im using pla. i use the. repeiter host and preheat it at 240 and move the extruder at 100 the filament didnt stop but i dont have a good cooling fan so i cant print at 240.
this video would be so useful to me 3 days ago lol. Its funny to see that I go true almost the same steps in levelling the bed as you do. Its just the logical thing to do I guess. My first print (yes it prints ;-) was a 2x2 cm cube..... it was a ugly son of a @#$^% but I have seen much worse prints. Something about the corners not being nice, also don't put printer on case with wheels it will mess up your prints in a almost funny way, like you were drunk. It seems to be a belt tension problem so I printed a belt tension device and added a layer fan, and now my cubes are almost perfect. I had or still have troubles getting PLA to stick, I though PLA was this easy material. But with the bed up to 75 degree C it will stick but still sometimes corners lift. So I thought lets buy a glue stick, so heated the bed used glue stick of course it will dry out in 10 minutes but I now understand it's used with the heat bed off right? Funny thing I scraped off the dried out glue stick, its a white powder if you add water tada! its glue again, don't we life in a mysterious world :-) Small correction, you can not level your X with the bed as a reverence, because the bed it self is not strait. The motor mounts are a better option. Take care!
+Voyager Are you printing at 100% infill? Just curious because every time I do the corners lift. If I print at 95% or less they don't lift. Yes, I do add the glue when the bed is cold. I have tried it when it is hot and it messed up the surface of the glue stick. You are 100% right about measuring from the print bed. It hit me after the video was already uploaded. I should have measured from either the aluminum plate beneath the glass or from the rods up to the top of the printer. Thank you for watching.
Wonder if anyone can help. I followed your steps to getting the bed flat and the hot end close to the bed, then when it comes to printing it starts 3-4 mm above the bed which is never going to print anything but a mess. I'm completely out of ideas. Wtf am I doing wrong ladies and gents? I'm at breaking point... the point where I'm going to smash this printer to bits and give up..
it did print a little bit of a cube, the nozzle somehow wiped the cube off the table part way into printing but as of right now i think i have it where it doesnt mess up so much. im trying to figure out why theres no plastic coming out.
@@JimmyShawsTidbits1 I am on an Anet group on Facebook and I have heard people talk about the noctua fans, but I never knew what the big deal was with them. All I know is that they are more expensive.
Thanks for the video!!! I just ordered this printer and I'm trying to learn all that I can. I'm looking forward to watching more of your videos.
+Rick Powis Thanks!!! I hope you enjoy it. I don't know how I got along without mine.
@@JimmyShawsTidbits1 Hi Jimmy, did you have any problem with z movement after putting on tha anti z wobble? They are a little larger than the rods and before they lock the nut to make it turn on the screw they turn a bit making a "tac noise". Idk if it is a real problem or just my paranoya, let me know.
@@Dosclic98FPV never had any problems with them. In fact I still use them on that printer.
@@JimmyShawsTidbits1 Can you explain me better how much tight the have to be to the rods? Do both sides have to touch the rod?
Greetings Jimmy,
This is probably the best video I've come across on print bed calibration yet. It was a delight to watch and learn, and I've been doing a lot of that since assembling my AnyCubic Prusa i3 Mendel kitset. I sure appreciate the quality of your vid... great lighting, sound, detail and beautifully presented. Just signed up to your video portal - so much USEFUL stuff there that goes beyond blue ducks and toys (not to put them down) :)
John
+John Sweden Thanks!!!!
Thank you! Your pointers are very clear and to the point. I'll be sure to re-watch this video when I get around to leveling my 3d printer. Subscribed.
+Qyuubi786 Thanks!!!
Jimmy Shaw's Tidbits I noticed the PTFE sleeve is sticking out of the extruder entrance. Is it best to run the 3D printer this way?
+Qyuubi786 I do it that way so that when the extruder moves sideways and pulls the filament from the spool, the PLA doesn't pinch at the top of the extruder and break.
It's just something I do as insurance.
Hi ya, great video,
Random question, could you possibly show a picture of the levelling screw, I nothing you had a screw on it! Mine doesn’t have one on, I presume it makes it a lot easier while adjusting things,
Very informative you do a great job of explaining thing ! My problem is steeper jumping , ordered some steeper smothers hope it helps .
Thanks for the vids! I have the same printer but the acrylic version (aluminum was out of stock) so they are quite helpful and informative. Keep em' coming, brother! :-)
+LostRoaming Thank you very much.
theres no actual difference in the prusa printers (i3 pro editions), its just the material that is changed
I have basically completed assembly of the printer (need to add much needed extruder cooling fan). When I try to "Home All," the stepper motors seem to be going in the correct direction. However, when the bed reaches the Z-stop and the switch is triggered, it looks like my left Z motor gets stuck a bit and clicks a couple of times (anti-Z wobble piece doesn't actually contact the coupler). Do you think I need to raise the couplers on the Z-axis since I added the anti-Z wobble fittings? If so, how much? The directions were not very clear about how high to mount the couplers away from the Z-motors. Thanks!
You have a fan on the front of the nozzle.
What size and how did you connect it up.
Is there a bracket you can buy or print drawing
Thanks, good video
Great videos ! At the beginning of video you measured to the bed, for Z axis level. I would recommend to measure for level on Z Axis , from X axis rods to a fixed spot on vertical frame, like just below the Lcd panel. The bed could be completely out of level. Just a thought.
I just got one of the acrylic geeetech PRO B printers this afternoon for $75 from a man moving out of Seattle. My gain. I want to add to Cura, what printer do I use from the lists?
Just starting out with 3D printing and finding your TH-cam and Toms TH-cam channel a great help. I have one question what glass do you use on your bed.
Thanks for sharing and keep up the good work.
+John Husband Thank you!!
The glass is called borosilicate glass. If you search for it on Ebay, there are a quite a few people selling it.
hi Jimmy I have got my printer and got it all hooked up just have a problem when i go to home to set up my bed every thing goes the wrong way ie Z goes up and not down y and x also do the opposite , instead of going to the micro swich they go the opposite way and I have to cut off the power so's not to burn anything . I would be greatful if you could help me thanks in advance marcus
+Marcus Parkes I remember something in the manual about if that happens. Unfortunately I'm still in Colorado on vacation and have limited Internet access. I'm sure you have already, but please double check all the wiring to be they are plugged in to the correct sockets on the board and also that they didn't happen to get plugged in the wrong way around since sometimes the little plastic nubs that are suposed to orentate the connectors the right way are almost nonexistent. If all that is correct, please email technical@geeetech.com they can walk you thru the steps of reversing the stepper motor in the firmware. Sorry I couldn't be better help. I hope you get up and printing soon.
Hi
I had the same problem with the x and y axis cables. The solution is to invert the cables. So cut the 4 cables on one side and switch their order around then solder them.
Hahaha so true about the wife thing you better answer it when she calls lol 😂
Wow why can't everyone be as clear and straight to the point on how to adjust the 3d printer your very helpful and so easy to understand 👍
Thank you
Hi Jimmy I'm completly new to this , I have just ordered my first printer 2 days ago , from banggood , knowing full well that its going to take at least a month to get here , so in the meanwhile I'm checking things out , I have tons of questions , which areprobably not for now like just one of them , what filament shoud I use ie diameter , plus what nozzle ? and many more newby questions like that . enjoyed your vid , can't wait till mine gets here then I will be asking you soooo many questions !!!!! ha ha big thumbs up from me , cheers
Marcus
+Marcus Parkes if it's the same printer, it uses 1.75 mm filament, but please double check the specifications to be sure. Most generally they come with a .4mm nozzle which is a good all around nozzle. If you want to print extremely detailed models, you might want to use a finer nozzle like a .3mm or .2mm.
You will definitely enjoy it. I will definitely be happy to answer your questions. And thank you so much for watching.
Thanks for your quick answer I have ordered it with 1,75 filament and a 0,4 so all should be ok
Banggood have them on offer instead of 495.43 dollar they are selling them for 365,99
+Marcus Parkes you should be good to go. What brand filament did you order?
+Marcus Parkes I just checked it out. With free shipping, that's a great deal!
Thanks for the video Jimmy. You confirmed that I am doing my bed leveling the same way you do. So that must not be my issue. I will say that I have not had any issues with prints sticking to the bed using Hatchbox PLA. I am having other issues with some of my prints but I blame that on myself for being a noob with the slicing programs.
Can you share what your "normal" settings are for PLA?
I also need to rewatch your video about the cooling fan to see how you wired it up. I think that is why I am having issues with bridging.
+Fuganater the fan really helped with bridging. There are alot of different fan setups you can try as well. When you have a chance check out the Geeetech Aluminum Prusa I3 group on Thiniverse. A few of us have been adding some different designs on there. Instead of having to search Thingiverse.com for them, you can find them all in one place at www.Thingiverse.com/groups/geeetech-aluminum-prusai3-owner
+Fuganater sure. For hatchbox pla I print at 210°c with the print bed at 60°c.
What problems are you having with your prints?
+Jimmy Shaw's Tidbits I'll send you a picture via Facebook tomorrow. It starts out ok then the filament comes out in like chunks and also my infill gets super stringy and is not supportive at all.
I was using the crap program that comes with it but that is junk. I then switched to Simplify3d and the print was AMAZING. Then I tried to remake the anti z wobble parts with S3D and they were crap. Same settings as the good print but IDK what the deal is.
+Fuganater That will be great. Thanks!!!
Hi I think the locking rings on you x axis shafts should go in the inside of the x axis shafts to stop the x belt tension from squeezing in the z axis shafts inwards, as well as stopping the shafts from sliding out. I have this printer and I had nothing but dramas, as soon as I swapped the lockers my problem was fixed "not to say you have any problems" its just an observation . Thumbs up for the vid, loved it.
Wouldn't be consistent if the heated bed doesn't have springs but static?
What temp do you set your your print bed at? and what temp is the surface of the glass when you check it? Thanks.
+John B Normally between 65c to 70c for PLA. I've never physically checked the temperature of the glass.
I tried mine for the1 time yesterday. The filament wouldn't extrude. How deep do you have to load it? Do you know some other error causes?
How do I calibrate the printer without an LED screen? thanks
my printer the print isn't sticking to the bed it just like rolls of the glass and gathers around the nozzle is this because the bed is too far away from the nozzle or because I should put tape on the glass or something?
Also would it be easier to level the bed in an X shape rather than a square shape? So do bottom left corner then top right then bottom right and then top left?
+Michael Whitney Are you leveling your bed with 1 sheet of paper between the nozzle and the glass? Yes, you should use tape, glue hair spray, or purchase a sheet of buildtak. Printing directly on glass without anything to adhere to can cause this problem as well.
As far as a pattern goes, do what ever you feel is right. It doesn't matter what pattern you use as long as you can feel a slight drag on the paper as you move it between the print bed and the nozzle.
I'm using feeler gauges a .004 thou one which I believe to be the thickness of paper. Think I made the mistake of not checking the height with the nozzle in the center of the build plate first and then also was using a 0.2 and then tried a 0.1 first layer height with no luck oddly setting the layer height to 0.35 it actually stuck. Still curled tho and came completely unstuck just before printing the first top layer of a 2 cm cube. Seems to have quite a bit of z wobble as well here's some pictures of the cube could you tell me if that is indeed Z wobble? goo.gl/photos/juRv23Q6jq8XnFmi6
I've ordered some buildtak won't be here until Friday though annoyingly I've also ordered some lead screws that should arrive tomorrow though will no doubt have fun trying to get the Z axis to move the correct amount as the threads will be different but hopefully will help get rid of Z wobble. Tbf can clearly see my threaded rods moving side to side and I'm certain I can see the hot end moving about too though not sure if it's just my imagination lol no way to properly check it but that cube looks to have Z wobble to me but I'm not experienced at 3D printing so need a second opinion from someone like yourself who's more experienced than I am.
+Michael Whitney It looks like s combination of things. It does look like Z wobble, but speed and possibility temperature issues too. What is the maximum print speed that you are running?
These are screen shots of the slicer settings I used for both print speeds and temps: goo.gl/photos/EoXdiFpNNNJ71cyi8
I have just build mine. I3 prusa pro b Same as yours but I noticed u put spring in the end stop screw and added fan to cool the plastic after extruded. So on cura u put .3. Not 4 ?
Rc Vulcan Yes. The spring is to keep tension on the screw so it doesn't move. It said to put it there in the instructions when I built the printer. The fan helps alot when printing with PLA. In Cura the nozzle size is set to 0.4mm.
Jimmy Shaw's Tidbits interesting. No mention of the spring in my instructions. Ok. Cheers
+Rc Vulcan Really? If it feels loose, the spring helps alot.
Jimmy Shaw's Tidbits yeah. I will look for a spring maybe pen spring. As u say. It is loose and wobble and sometimes it Miss the switch end
Hey Jimmy, thanks for the vid again.. learning lots. Would it be possible to see how your filament is fed? meaning from spool holder to extruder? any guides or filter etc..
My Geeetech Prusa I3 Pro should be arriving today or tomorrow... then the fun begins... hehehe
Thanks again, and keep the vids cuming...
Reg
+MrRegzxzx sure, I'm going to be working on the extruder this weekend. All I have is the spool holder, a filament guide on the top of the printer to keep the filament from dragging across the aluminum, and then straight to the extruder. I haven't tried a oiler yet.
Thanks for watching, and please let me know how you like your new Pro. I like the looks of that machine.
+Jimmy Shaw's Tidbits Hey Jimmy, I got my Pro, now all build and working pretty good. Not much problems building it, few quirks, but I improvised and fixed all up. Seeing your vids ahead of time was really helpful. The box looks pretty good, but I did have a major problem with it at the beginning, one of the sub board inside had a solder short and it took me 2 days to figure it out, I tough it was the GT2560 board,, oouff... Any how, if you would like, I can take all around pics and small vids (with my phone) and put them on Google drive for you to see... Not a youtube star :-) take care and cheers.
Reg
+MrRegzxzx That's great!!! I'm glad you like it. How's the print quality?
+Jimmy Shaw's Tidbits It's pretty good, I'm still learning about all the settings and all, using Repetier with cura.. so I'm learning a lot. I just figured out how to make sure my prints start in dead center of bed. (that took me a while! hahaha) I'll make a small vid tonight.
Can you share your Cura printer setup for the aluminum i3A with me? Did you update the firmware?
+Paul Amato Hi Paul! You can find my Cura settings in this video. th-cam.com/video/RNaR8-W8bvA/w-d-xo.html
I never updated the firmware. In fact I have never connected the computer to it. I only print using a SD card.
Hello, is there any way that you can email the exact firmware that is running on yours. I put the new marlin on mine but waiting on new step drives because the voltage regulators on 2 or mine are defective. I just want to compare my settings to yours. Im running the Sanguinololu rev 1.3a. By the way awsome to see your printer doing work.
danielmdavis1@gmail.com
+Daniel Davis I have what ever came on it. I never changed the firmware.
idk if you can help, but my motors are going backwards, and I cant reverse the steppers because the socket is one way, can i force it?
+Bryce Fountain you could, but in the instructions it tells how to reverse them in the firmware.
I found a spot in the Firmware to reverse the motor direction for firmware manuals control under config printer but home still goes back wards. Tried it using home like it is shown in this video with panel and home still hard right, up and forward. all opposite the stops.
+Donald Hill I have never heard of that happening. It almost has to be a bad board.
I think I have a solution. It will be a few hours before I can get home to try it (dang job lol) but it appears to be as simple as swapping the connector on the motor which will require cutting the key off. The commentator on the Repetier FB page mention this as well as going into firmware. I'm not a Software guy so I will try the wiring first. 4 wire stepper motors drawing show wire 1 and 2 going to A coil and wires 3 & 4 going to B coil. Flipping the connector should make it change direction. adding link but searching stepper motor wiring should get you to it. ebldc.com/?p=253
I have the same printer (the acrylic version) and mine came with the x axis reversed. Changed in the firmware. www.geeetech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=17037
OK that was really helpfull (will have to watch it twice though) very calm and helpful thank you
What cura settings do you use for your printer?
I've done more than 1 video showing the settings. Here's one of them. th-cam.com/video/74T-NBVLeKU/w-d-xo.html
roughly how many times will it go out of level?
I usually would have to level it after every 4 or 5 prints. Now with the new Geeetech printers with the super plate its pretty much only after making changes to the machine.
Oh by the way I'm the 102nd subscriber !!!!!!
+Marcus Parkes I appreciate it. Thanks!!!
mine prints not in middle it goes to the rt end back on build plate unless its' the model im building from sd card
I just finished building mine. Do you mind sharing your starting gcode?
+Greg Webster I just use whatever Cura creates for the beginning and ending gcode.
No worries. I've tried Cura but never managed to get it to connect to my printer (this one or the Printrbot LC I had previously). Is there a trick to that I'm unaware of?
+Greg Webster I've always saved the gcode to a SD Card and print that way. Are you trying to print via USB?
+Greg Webster I've always saved the gcode to a SD Card and print that way. Are you trying to print via USB?
Jimmy Shaw's Tidbits Yeah...though not a requirement of course. I've always done it that way in Repetier. For what it's worth, I've been having problems with the hot end they supplied (it want put together tightly so it oozed all over the place) so I'm not printing yet anyway.
Hey! you almost at 100! hehehe good job!
+MrRegzxzx Thanks!!!
This helped me a whole lot! Great video
+Patrick Jackson Thanks!!! Glad it helped.
Thanks Jimmy that was really useful!
when leveling do diagonal corner first eg. front left then back right... then front right then back left
my Auto Homing isn't working?? going to do a one over on the wiring i guess..??
If the wiring and switches are good, try updating the firmware.
I tried using a piece of paper and I did exactly what you did but my prints keep coming out poorly its either too close to the bed or too far away
+Sadok Barbouch Do you have the springs compressed a little on the print bed, or are they almost to the top position?
I ask because if the springs are compressed about half way, I find that I don't need to level as often.
there half way
Hi jimmy how you doing
I am looking for the firmware for this 3D printer. Can you help me, please?
+Mbra771 please check out this video and please check the video description for the link to it. th-cam.com/video/Mk2C53nOeVo/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for making this video.
Thank you soooo much really!!!! thanks to you I got it working on this last step and you explain it so good!!!! again I cant thank you enogh :)
Thanks for this video, very informative and easy to follow!
I think my printer got jammed I have the same printer. I can't make the 1st layer right the filament stop moving down but the gear is moving so there's some skipping in the layer I already clean the nozzle but nothings change.
+john Wick If the gear is moving but it's not extruding, it could be a small clog in the nozzle or something in the nozzle throat jamming the filament
the fillament start softening at the heat break is it normal? im using pla. i use the. repeiter host and preheat it at 240 and move the extruder at 100 the filament didnt stop but i dont have a good cooling fan so i cant print at 240.
I tested this morning and the filament curl up and touch the nozzle.
+john Wick Definitely sounds like a clogged nozzle.
cant remove the clog I already clean it with the guitar string.
this video would be so useful to me 3 days ago lol.
Its funny to see that I go true almost the same steps in levelling the bed as you do. Its just the logical thing to do I guess.
My first print (yes it prints ;-) was a 2x2 cm cube..... it was a ugly son of a @#$^% but I have seen much worse prints.
Something about the corners not being nice, also don't put printer on case with wheels it will mess up your prints in a almost funny way, like you were drunk. It seems to be a belt tension problem so I printed a belt tension device and added a layer fan, and now my cubes are almost perfect.
I had or still have troubles getting PLA to stick, I though PLA was this easy material. But with the bed up to 75 degree C it will stick but still sometimes corners lift. So I thought lets buy a glue stick, so heated the bed used glue stick of course it will dry out in 10 minutes but I now understand it's used with the heat bed off right?
Funny thing I scraped off the dried out glue stick, its a white powder if you add water tada! its glue again, don't we life in a mysterious world :-)
Small correction, you can not level your X with the bed as a reverence, because the bed it self is not strait. The motor mounts are a better option.
Take care!
+Voyager Are you printing at 100% infill? Just curious because every time I do the corners lift. If I print at 95% or less they don't lift.
Yes, I do add the glue when the bed is cold. I have tried it when it is hot and it messed up the surface of the glue stick.
You are 100% right about measuring from the print bed. It hit me after the video was already uploaded. I should have measured from either the aluminum plate beneath the glass or from the rods up to the top of the printer.
Thank you for watching.
+Jimmy Shaw's Tidbits
Indeed it was a 100% infill
But do you print PLA with a cold bed and only the glue stick?
+Voyager I print with the bed heated to 60°c. The glue helps keep the edges down and small parts from coming loose.
Wonder if anyone can help.
I followed your steps to getting the bed flat and the hot end close to the bed, then when it comes to printing it starts 3-4 mm above the bed which is never going to print anything but a mess.
I'm completely out of ideas. Wtf am I doing wrong ladies and gents? I'm at breaking point... the point where I'm going to smash this printer to bits and give up..
In your slicer, check your initial or first layer height. It should be 0.3. It may be set at 3.
z axis motor just keep humming and not turning consistantly...i keep moving the sides up and down and now im tearing my hair out
Is there something binding up? Have you swapped out the stepper drivers to see if it's defective?
it did print a little bit of a cube, the nozzle somehow wiped the cube off the table part way into printing but as of right now i think i have it where it doesnt mess up so much. im trying to figure out why theres no plastic coming out.
nevermind, still original problem also, i hate this thing. i hate i wasted my paycheck on this lol.
not worth the headache, just took mine to the dumpster
How long have you had it?
Good one, useful!
Your part cooling fan is quite noisy. You should replace it.
A lot of things have been replaced in over 3 years since this video. LOL!!!
@@JimmyShawsTidbits1 NO problem. Just an observation I had when watching the video.
I've always wanted to change over to noctua fans. Maybe some day I can get around to it.
@@JimmyShawsTidbits1 I am on an Anet group on Facebook and I have heard people talk about the noctua fans, but I never knew what the big deal was with them. All I know is that they are more expensive.
ma perché non lo fai in italiano!
Vorrei sapere italiano. Se l'ho fatto mi piacerebbe.