Motorcycle Engine Stand made from a car engine stand. If you're in need of parts for your vintage motorcycle visit Simpy's motorcycle parts barn on ebay - www.ebay.com/str/simpysmotorc...
Sir, let me give you some constructive criticism, as I have 4 of these in my shop for both Harley Davidson engines and 4 cylinder Suzuki engines. The 3 legged or wheeled engine stands are not real stable so always keep that in mind when moving it around or rolling the engine over, it can flop the whole deal over. You seem like you can easily convert yours to a 4 wheeler with just buying another wheel and welding up a outrigger on either side out front. Most important is to line up the center of the weight of the engine with the center of that big round black tube. It takes some doing with the 4 arms but it can always be done. Sometimes drilling 2 other holes in the plate or like you said put 2 arms in a single slot. In the Elsinore engine in the video the centerline of weight is probably right on top of the upper engine case. This will distribute the weight evenly so when you turn it over it won't FLOP and try to throw itself over. The bigger the engine the more the flop if it's not centered. I hope this helps, again I have 4 of these in my shop as we speak. Good luck Sir. T.S. RACING
Your input is very welcome. I feel the same way about the lack of stability with these 3 wheel stands. I will most likely go with 4 (larger than factory) wheels that also lock.
You are making a good start. With this vertically split engine design it's better to hold it from one side so that you can split the cases while the engine is still in the stand. I have been working on some engine stands and holders for a few months now. Send me your email address and I will show you what I have found works well.
I hear you on the side mount stand but at this point in time I want a stand that I can start / run an engine on. We have a bunch of engines that don't have frames. I plan to try and mount a starting system, fuel and coil on my stand that will be a universal fit. We shall see. Thanks for the comment.
@@flipfix I have seen several MC engine run up stands, but they were all for electric start engines. I think a drill motor driving the flywheel would be one way to go with some kind of drive coupler or even just a socket. An alternative would be a belt drive from an electric motor to the flywheel with some kind of tensioning mechanism. We mounted a test fuel tank, battery, ignition coil and CDI box on an upright above the back of the engine on a stack that could be mounted and removed easy. Good Luck with it!
@@millarfarewell5343 Thanks for the input. I'm still working on a mount for fuel/electrical. I'm looking into using a car starter motor. Anything goes at this stage of the game.
![Every Engine in Motorcycle Explained | Single to Ten Cylinder Engines [Part - 1]](/img/n.gif)
That is cool. I’ve been thinking of something like this. Thanks for sharing brother.
BIG RED T23401 Steel Rotating Engine Stand - Amazon
Sir, let me give you some constructive criticism, as I have 4 of these in my shop for both Harley Davidson engines and 4 cylinder Suzuki engines. The 3 legged or wheeled engine stands are not real stable so always keep that in mind when moving it around or rolling the engine over, it can flop the whole deal over. You seem like you can easily convert yours to a 4 wheeler with just buying another wheel and welding up a outrigger on either side out front.
Most important is to line up the center of the weight of the engine with the center of that big round black tube. It takes some doing with the 4 arms but it can always be done. Sometimes drilling 2 other holes in the plate or like you said put 2 arms in a single slot. In the Elsinore engine in the video the centerline of weight is probably right on top of the upper engine case. This will distribute the weight evenly so when you turn it over it won't FLOP and try to throw itself over. The bigger the engine the more the flop if it's not centered. I hope this helps, again I have 4 of these in my shop as we speak. Good luck Sir.
T.S. RACING
Your input is very welcome. I feel the same way about the lack of stability with these 3 wheel stands. I will most likely go with 4 (larger than factory) wheels that also lock.
You are making a good start. With this vertically split engine design it's better to hold it from one side so that you can split the cases while the engine is still in the stand. I have been working on some engine stands and holders for a few months now. Send me your email address and I will show you what I have found works well.
I hear you on the side mount stand but at this point in time I want a stand that I can start / run an engine on. We have a bunch of engines that don't have frames. I plan to try and mount a starting system, fuel and coil on my stand that will be a universal fit. We shall see. Thanks for the comment.
@@flipfix I have seen several MC engine run up stands, but they were all for electric start engines. I think a drill motor driving the flywheel would be one way to go with some kind of drive coupler or even just a socket. An alternative would be a belt drive from an electric motor to the flywheel with some kind of tensioning mechanism. We mounted a test fuel tank, battery, ignition coil and CDI box on an upright above the back of the engine on a stack that could be mounted and removed easy. Good Luck with it!
@@millarfarewell5343 Thanks for the input. I'm still working on a mount for fuel/electrical. I'm looking into using a car starter motor. Anything goes at this stage of the game.