You have mentioned Danfoss was doing something in Summer when the heating was off and you took the batteries out. I cannot find it right now, but I remember Danfoss did such thing on purpose. The main reason behind it is to do not let the valve stuck in certain position so Danfoss do cycles like open fully, close fully and back to set position. It does it on schedule like once per few weeks. It is actually good for the valve and personally I left the batteries in, so Danfoss can take care of the valve.
Ahoj, nebolo by lepsie riesenie na reguláciu tepla nevyužívať automatizáciu cez HA a využívať údaje z externého T&H senzoru, ktory sa nachádza v tej istej miestnosti a napr. Ak teplota klesne pod 20°C tak valve sa zapne a pri prekročení 23°c sa vypne čím by sa eliminoval problém so skreslenim tepelného čidla v hlavici ?
How do you control the boiler to call for heat using the Sonoff TRVs. One of your replies to a comment mentioned a previous video, but I was unable to find anything that related. Can you point me in the direction, cheers
Hopefully you will follow up after the firmware update? If the new firmware would just reduce the valve opening after hitting the max temp it would be great. I would order bunch of these as my main criteria is the quietness of the valve.
Not directly. But when the TRVs are closed, the heating water will not lose heat and the heating system will turn off. But I also have a secondary way to control it directly through a thermostat contact - I made a video about it a while ago.
Václave, máte tyto chytré hlavice nějakým způsobem spojené s termostatem pro kotel? Hlavice jsou určitě skvělé, ale "zavolat si" kotli pro spuštění samy o sobě neumí bez propojení s termostatem kotle, Máte nějaké tipy, co případně použít, případně zkušenosti, jak to obejít? Díky za video.
Mám automatizaci, která rozpojí pokojový termostat na kotli, když teplota ve všech pokojích je vyšší než cíl. Nicméně topenářI toto nedoporučuji, říkají že je úspornější to nechat na ekvitermni regulaci. Nevim
what is the better battery consumption, to fully close/open or using calibration with external temperature sensor - then let it close/open by percentage steps automatically ? I'm using Tuya zigbee 3.0 TS0601 Thanks
That's a good question. The small adjustments might take less power, but then they will probably happen more frequently. Taken to the extreme, if it keeps adjusting constantly, that would take most power. So I guess less frequent changes would be better for batteries. But I did not measure it.
Reducing the temperature basically always help. But doing it for just a few hours give very limited benefit. Doing it for 6-8 hours, the benefit is quite significant. The only thing to consider is that the thermostat should not overshoot the target temperature when heating up, That is basically the one situation when reducing the temperature might be decremental.
The slow response is in most use cases a good feature. I think Dannfoss even claims to have a 30-minute “ventilation time”. If you open a window it will not go all open immediately. A set value change could be done without delay though. Then regarding lower temp during part of the day. In many cases it will create secondary problems in the form of energy consumption spikes. I have district heating, a “heavy” brick house and I had the Danfoss system. The monthly base rate for district heating is given by max 3hour consumption during winter months. So, when I tried the “smart” function to drop temp during part of the day, the spike it created when heating back to normal caused me to pay extra for the next 12 months. I gave the system to a friend with heat pump. He also disabled the function because the spike exceeded the capacity of the heat pump and caused it to use the emergency heating elements, hence dropping efficiency. If your gas heater has sufficient head room it might work to drop during part of the day and then take a bigger hit when heating back to normal. But as stated, use with caution.
0:25 “and I will go quite into detail” You’ve caught my attention. 😉👌 11:22 The TRV is mounted on top of the radiator. I think that’s a fault of your installation. Radiator valves should be installed away from the radiator and pipe if possible. Edit: Ah, you mention this later on.
I've been using the Aqara TRV and I can say that I really like it. The display is great, it has many options in home assistant and I still have the same batteries for around a year now. When I change the temperature, it starts changing it instantly without any wait. I think the noise is the same as you recorded, it's not really bothering at all. The only louder noise that it makes for me is when it fully closes. The motor seems like it's still trying even when it shouldn't so there's a bit unpleasant sound. (Tried to calibrate it multiple times) Might be just my old valve and not a hardware problem of the TRV. Valve never fully closes during night so I don't consider this as an issue. I would buy it again. The only thing that is missing for me is the % slider. That would be a good addition.
Yes, you are right. They mentioned noise when it was fully closed, as if it did not know it is already closed. So this is consistent. For the batteries, they mentioned a much shorter time (2 months or so). They mentioned the manual setting is not smooth and jumps around, and an issue with some sort of plastic pin. So this discouraged me. Glad to see that it works for you.
Are you on constant heat supply or using timed heating? I hate my aqara TRV as it constantly micro adjust itself as it want heat when i have my heating off. All i want it to get to the set temp and thats it
Yeah theres a smart schedule, but once i decide to heat up the house, i would also have to set the trv, this is annoying. Basically i want same function as analog TRVs but with wifi ability, thats all
I have the Danfoss Zigbee (2 years) as well as the Sonoff (one season). The Danfoss has more features, like week schedule, but I do not need those with Home Assistant.
You have mentioned Danfoss was doing something in Summer when the heating was off and you took the batteries out. I cannot find it right now, but I remember Danfoss did such thing on purpose. The main reason behind it is to do not let the valve stuck in certain position so Danfoss do cycles like open fully, close fully and back to set position. It does it on schedule like once per few weeks. It is actually good for the valve and personally I left the batteries in, so Danfoss can take care of the valve.
Ahoj, nebolo by lepsie riesenie na reguláciu tepla nevyužívať automatizáciu cez HA a využívať údaje z externého T&H senzoru, ktory sa nachádza v tej istej miestnosti a napr. Ak teplota klesne pod 20°C tak valve sa zapne a pri prekročení 23°c sa vypne čím by sa eliminoval problém so skreslenim tepelného čidla v hlavici ?
Dorazil jsem pozde na to party ale jsem tu abych se neco naucil. Diky za tvuj cas a ochotu tvorit super videa.
How do you control the boiler to call for heat using the Sonoff TRVs. One of your replies to a comment mentioned a previous video, but I was unable to find anything that related. Can you point me in the direction, cheers
Vaclav, I see some white blinking squares in the left and right upper corners so now and then.
Sorry for that. There is no way to re-upload the video unfortunately
Hopefully you will follow up after the firmware update? If the new firmware would just reduce the valve opening after hitting the max temp it would be great. I would order bunch of these as my main criteria is the quietness of the valve.
That's the plan :)
@@bruxy70 Have you managed to test the updated firmware? I've been looking to purchase TRVs and would love to get your feedback
@@bruxy70do you have any updates on new version of firmware?
@@bruxy70Hi, have you tested the new firmware of the TVR radiator valves? Thanks for the videos.
How do you switch the central heating system with the sonoff TRV?
Not directly. But when the TRVs are closed, the heating water will not lose heat and the heating system will turn off. But I also have a secondary way to control it directly through a thermostat contact - I made a video about it a while ago.
Václave, máte tyto chytré hlavice nějakým způsobem spojené s termostatem pro kotel? Hlavice jsou určitě skvělé, ale "zavolat si" kotli pro spuštění samy o sobě neumí bez propojení s termostatem kotle, Máte nějaké tipy, co případně použít, případně zkušenosti, jak to obejít? Díky za video.
Mám automatizaci, která rozpojí pokojový termostat na kotli, když teplota ve všech pokojích je vyšší než cíl. Nicméně topenářI toto nedoporučuji, říkají že je úspornější to nechat na ekvitermni regulaci. Nevim
Any update on the temperature control?
Sadly no. I did not really use it during the summer :)
@@bruxy70 i heard if you update the TRV to 1.1.5 it can intermediate control the valve. Haven't tested it yet.
what is the better battery consumption, to fully close/open or using calibration with external temperature sensor - then let it close/open by percentage steps automatically ? I'm using Tuya zigbee 3.0 TS0601
Thanks
That's a good question. The small adjustments might take less power, but then they will probably happen more frequently. Taken to the extreme, if it keeps adjusting constantly, that would take most power. So I guess less frequent changes would be better for batteries. But I did not measure it.
Reducing the temperature basically always help. But doing it for just a few hours give very limited benefit. Doing it for 6-8 hours, the benefit is quite significant.
The only thing to consider is that the thermostat should not overshoot the target temperature when heating up, That is basically the one situation when reducing the temperature might be decremental.
What is the nespresso device listed in your Z2M?
Just a smart plug :)
The slow response is in most use cases a good feature. I think Dannfoss even claims to have a 30-minute “ventilation time”. If you open a window it will not go all open immediately. A set value change could be done without delay though.
Then regarding lower temp during part of the day. In many cases it will create secondary problems in the form of energy consumption spikes. I have district heating, a “heavy” brick house and I had the Danfoss system. The monthly base rate for district heating is given by max 3hour consumption during winter months. So, when I tried the “smart” function to drop temp during part of the day, the spike it created when heating back to normal caused me to pay extra for the next 12 months.
I gave the system to a friend with heat pump. He also disabled the function because the spike exceeded the capacity of the heat pump and caused it to use the emergency heating elements, hence dropping efficiency.
If your gas heater has sufficient head room it might work to drop during part of the day and then take a bigger hit when heating back to normal. But as stated, use with caution.
0:25 “and I will go quite into detail”
You’ve caught my attention. 😉👌
11:22 The TRV is mounted on top of the radiator.
I think that’s a fault of your installation. Radiator valves should be installed away from the radiator and pipe if possible.
Edit: Ah, you mention this later on.
You should test Shelly TRV 😉
BTW I like your videos 😊
I've been using the Aqara TRV and I can say that I really like it. The display is great, it has many options in home assistant and I still have the same batteries for around a year now. When I change the temperature, it starts changing it instantly without any wait. I think the noise is the same as you recorded, it's not really bothering at all. The only louder noise that it makes for me is when it fully closes. The motor seems like it's still trying even when it shouldn't so there's a bit unpleasant sound. (Tried to calibrate it multiple times) Might be just my old valve and not a hardware problem of the TRV. Valve never fully closes during night so I don't consider this as an issue. I would buy it again. The only thing that is missing for me is the % slider. That would be a good addition.
Yes, you are right. They mentioned noise when it was fully closed, as if it did not know it is already closed. So this is consistent. For the batteries, they mentioned a much shorter time (2 months or so). They mentioned the manual setting is not smooth and jumps around, and an issue with some sort of plastic pin. So this discouraged me. Glad to see that it works for you.
@@bruxy70interesting, the battery for me is at 78% since I bought it. Not sure what could be the problem with the smooth setting nor the plastic pin.
Are you on constant heat supply or using timed heating? I hate my aqara TRV as it constantly micro adjust itself as it want heat when i have my heating off. All i want it to get to the set temp and thats it
@@lisijlisij9471 There is a program on the heating system. But I lower the TRVs pretty much consistently with the program.
Yeah theres a smart schedule, but once i decide to heat up the house, i would also have to set the trv, this is annoying. Basically i want same function as analog TRVs but with wifi ability, thats all
Do you have link for your discord server?
discord.gg/xtHhMXwm9B
Danfoss Ally and Bosch BTH-RA are the best. I can even control/modify "PI heating demand" (% of valve opening) manually.
I have the Danfoss Zigbee (2 years) as well as the Sonoff (one season). The Danfoss has more features, like week schedule, but I do not need those with Home Assistant.
Bro is sending subliminal messages with the flashes in the corners I can feel my programming changing
I can't believe how bad the battery life of these things is. It's unacceptable to have to swap batteries twice a year on 10 devices!
Ultimate trv is the Shelly one
Unfortunately it's wifi as far as I know