Removing Slack In A-Series Engine Timing Chains
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ส.ค. 2024
- If you've got too much slack in your A-Series engine timing chain, Mini Mania now has Rollmaster timing gear sets in stock to take up that slack! See below for links to site to get yours today:
Rollmaster Offset Timing Gear Sets:
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Great info! Makes me want to check my chain when my motor comes out again.
Very good video! Most engine builders don't like to address this isssue, I'm happy to see that you give attention to details like this it makes a big difference in the life of the motor!
re. 2.44: if the inline boring is done correctly, they will not take off material from the flat of the MB caps, they will be bored slightly oversize & thicker bearings installed. Or should be. Overall, replacing a duplex chain set is easily done & not expensive. Nice vid all the same.
Yes, precisely. A proper line bore should only be truing the cap - not the block side of the main bearing area. With wear and tear, all blocks will eventually produce slop - especially when they're 3-main bearing types.
It sounds like I'd only trust the Rollmaster brand as I need to replace the one in my Chevy LS1 V8 which I'm currently replacing a set of hydraulic lifters in.
The bottom sprocket has some wear on it & the chain is a bit sloppy @ 337,512 kms,I believe it is causing the ECU to throw a trouble code.
We replaced the stock set in my dads Buick L36 V6 engine with a Rollmaster set which was tight,I had to fit both sprockets at the same time because the chain was that tight.
Great video. Can you tell me how many crankshaft degrees the cam would be late with the new stock chain?
Super helpful video, thank you!
I've been running a duplex with tensioner for probably 20 years. It's an easy retro fit and has never needed adjustment. Chain slack simply isn't an issue, and of course adding a tensioner has the added benefit of eliminating spark scatter, so strobe timing remains rock steady on and off load.
Yes we sell kits for the conversion to a tensioner set up, as well : www.spridgetmania.com/part/MMKT0019/Timing-Cover-Kit-W--Tensioner-For-Sprite--Midget-With-Timing-Chain-Slack
I always put rtv around the rubber o rings on the side plate bolts .
Side plates always seem to leak from the bolt hole cos its much bigger than the bolt hole .
If that chain is any tighter is it going to cause some premature wear on either the cam or main bearings? I was thinking of retro fitting a tensioner to my 1275 a series, what is your opinion about that ? I have fitted a new chain and adjustable sprocket kit.
It could, yes. However, on a new engine there will always be some break in so starting with something just slightly tighter than you think is good is the place to start. We do offer a kit to add a Mini-type tensioner as was used on the A+ engines: www.spridgetmania.com/part/MMKT0019/Timing-Cover-Kit-W--Tensioner-For-Sprite--Midget-With-Timing-Chain-Slack.
That's another way to go but it won't look stock, obviously. Also, there's more work involved in that retrofit since you have to replace the front plate.
All things being equal, what is the best way to go? Having a chain that is slightly too tight or near perfect (and assuming it will break in) and running it OR running a tensioner.
Reason I ask is that I have had this issue on my 1275 A+ Mini motor. The block has been line bored now but even before it was, I had two chains stretch prematurely (both from very reputable performance suppliers) and currently running a very good brand of chain. There is still play, too much if I am going off this video, but I have the stock tensioner in place. Will the factory tensioner make up the difference or do I (eventually) need to go this route?
The issue isn't as critical on engines with a tensioner - in the sense that you can have more play to begin with since the tensioner should alleviate it. But, you can still have too much play and in those cases going to a .002 set might be the best option. Unless the line bore drastically slackened the chain a .005 set would probably be too tight. Note that these are duplex sets, not simplex sets so slightly different than a stock Mini A+ set up with the single row chains but the tensioners will work with them the same way. You may need to shim the crank gear to fit, however - to make it level with the cam gear.
Right, I am currently running a Swiftune duplex veneer timing set with the stock A+ tensioner. Next time I am inside the motor (hopefully not for a bit) I am going to check the chain slack and see where I am at. Thanks
great video, however, I don't understand why you don't have a chain tensioner?
The inline A-Series engines never had a provision for adding a tensioner. The later A+ series engines for the Mini, Metro, and other cars did.
A tensioner can be added but it requires replacing the front plate with an A+ type that's been modified to accept the tensioner and the A+ timing cover. It's a lot more work and it doesn't maintain originality. Also, the original tensioner set up was designed for simplex chains, not the duplex type on Sprites & Midgets. It works, but not as intended.
@@minimania The early engines with a single chain did have a tensioner - but they also wore in time.
#minimania Is this a good practice to use duplex as a timing chain replacement or is it a solution dedicated only for tuned engines? (I have 998 automatic).
Using a simplex set-up and good, non-stretch chain is good, too!
00:47 01:51 02:03 02:28 02:30 02:34 02:54 03:05 03:26 05:07
So a good amount of slack is actually a bad amount......