New Lathe Adventure - OKUMA LS - Part 1: Inspection and first Chips
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ส.ค. 2020
- I bought a bigger Lathe for my Shop to do some heavier work. A nice Japanese made Okuma LS from around 1970-1975. This video is about the first look, inspection, some electrical problems and making the first chips.
Instagram Bart Harkema: / bartharkema - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Gday Bart, beautiful lathe for sure, certainly a very heavy strong machine, please don’t be concerned about the language, I’m Australian and I still stuff the English language up, I really enjoyed this video, I’m looking forward to seeing future projects on the lathe, thanks mate, Please take care, Cheers Matty
Thanks Matty. Cheers!
Funny joke:
What do you call a person that can speak three languages? Trilingual. What do you call a person that can speak two languages? Bilingual. What do you call a person that speaks one language? American.
As a English speaker that has a tenuous grasp on my native language, I have much respect for anyone that can manage effective communication in more that one language.
Thank you for the videos, please keep them coming!
Haha, thanks!
funny but true.
What do you call a Hot chick that can speak 5 languages????? First Lady of the United States!
Enjoyed it thoroughly.
I just bought an Okuma LS that’s been sitting in a barn for 20 years. I will be watching this video MANY times.
THANK YOU!
Good to hear. Let me know if you have any questions. Do you have the manual and parts document?
I don’t have any documentation. That’s why your videos will be so important to me! 🙂
@@mudnducs send me a mail to bartharkema at g mail dot com. I can share Pdf documents
@@bartharkemametalworks2299 will do!
Hi Bart, as a native English speaker yours is very good indeed. The great thing about our language is that those with very little English can make themselves understood even if they don't follow all of the rules, but that doesn't apply to you. My wife liked the face that you used the "That is not my cup of tea" idiom. Looking forward to seeing you do Moore with this lathe, I wish we had access to 3 ph in domestic properties in the U.K.
Thank you!
You speak better English than a lot of people who live here in the USA. That is a great looking machine and should give you a lot of good service. Stay safe.
Thanks!
Beautiful lathe, now I want one! 👍🏼
Hi Yuchol, it is a great machine but you will need a large shop for it. It depends on your work. Maybe its a little to big for 'everyday' use.
Happy to see you at work again
Thanks!
Excellent high precision industrial lathe....congrats on that purchase....damn i need one of those......
Thanks!
The outward feed direction for the Crosslide is quite common, its the same on Weiler Lathes.
Imagine you do some turning up to a Shoulder, the next step is to finish the shoulder and not to crash into your workpiece :-)
So this is done on purpose.
And when you do a facing cut on a workpiece with reversed feed direction (as you need to do to feed inwards) and have selected the carriage feed by accident the tool will not crash into, but move away from the work.
So this makes a lot of sense if you think about it.
Be careful with the Forkhard Chuck ! If the warning pin sticks out and you switch the Spindle on, the Jaws can fly out and eventually kill you !
They also require special lubrication to have full gripping force, they want you to buy their 2 special Products for this but you can use readily available stuff from Molykote, i can look up the names if you like, they mentioned them in their early Manuals.
Thanks, that sound like a good and logical reason!
I'm only an amateur but that makes sense it's a great feature, I've forgot to alter the direction of the feed of the lathe in the past and done what you have described, one more for the scrap bin lol. I always double check now.
My Harrison 165 also does this and it has always mildly annoyed me. But now I can see the reason so that makes it ok! Thanks.
Thanks for the advice on the Forhardt Chuck. If you have any info about the lubrication then please share.
@@bartharkemametalworks2299
It depends on the Size, but in a nutshell, you are supposed to lube all parts inside wit Molykote BR2 and a push-type greasegun with ordinary bearing Grease on the grease fitting where you place the Key.
There is even a symbol of one embossed beneath it.
On some sizes you are supposed to coat the parts inside with a thin layer of Molykote G first.
This seems to be replaced by G-Rapid Plus.
Great video! Thanks for sharing Bart, just subscribed. Solid lathe you have there. Look forward to Binge watching your videos. Cheers.
Can't wait for the painting video.
You did very well. Those are excellent lathes. Cheers
Thanks!
nice video,new lathe excitement
Nice lathe! Your very lucky to find it in such good condition.
Thanks!
Leuk om weer wat te zien van je. Wat een beest die Okuma! Onze Schaublin gaat binnenkort vervangen worden.
Dank je. De Okuma is idd een serieuze machine. Met wat gaan jullie de Schaublin vervangen?
Wat een prachtige machine, gefeliciteerd!
Dank je 👍
I have worked with such a lathe when I was aprentice in 1990. The gearwheel is made of fiber and is original. It reduces noise in high rpm.
No apologies necessary Bart, I have respect for you and your ability in English. You are more eloquent than some of my own countrymen who only know English. Nice machine! I get a kick out of all the different features, some of which I've never seen before.
Thanks 👍
i have 2 of those chucks that my German colleague sent me, 160mm and 250 mm, nice chucks but much different from any i have ever had. Thanks for sharing and nice machine.
Thanks. Only problem I have with the Chuck is that the jaws have some movement and it opens a bit in the front. Maybe I can regrind the Jaws because at this time I don't trust the clamping for heavier work.
Your English is terrific. No excuses needed! I enjoyed this tour of your new lathe. 3-phase power is weird stuff to work with. (We call the center leg neutral. Close to the zero you use.) Move 2 legs and the motor reverses direction? One of the weird things. Where neutral goes is another. Good luck!
Thanks! I have a basic understanding about the 3- Phase system. But if things get complicated like this system I have to ask a more experienced guy.
Verdorie wat een mooie draaibank Bart. Ik ben gewoon jaloers. Ik woonde bij jou in de buurt, maar nu verder weg. Ik volg je kanaal al een tijdje. Zelf heb ik een werktuigbouwkundige achtergrond en ga zelf nog een werkplaats inrichten. Geld is er, maar nog geen ruimte. Succes man!
Damn Bart, nice lathe! I am jealous. I use to live in your neighbourhood, but I moved. I follow your channel on TH-cam for a while now. I am an engineer myself and I want to build my own shop. The money is there, but I don’t have a location yet. Wisshing you a lot of succes!
My Cincinnati lathe has the same convention regarding the sliding and facing power feeds. I can change direction of the leadscrew without stopping the spindle (at reasonably slow speeds) via a dog clutch on the threading gear box.
Very nice lathe, looking forward to some fine heavy duty projects. Your english is very good, I'm english but live in spain so know what its like to have to learn another language, my castellano is not too bad but I tend to mix it with galician(I live in Galicia, Spain)as I learnt by listening and repeat like a parrot. The locals do the same.
Thank you. I think it will always be difficult to live in a country that speak a different language. Even after many years. Humor, reading between the words, emotions. Communication is much more than only words. Maybe the biggest problem is that you will often be smarter then you sound like but you have trouble to communicate.
Don't worry at all about the language! My mother tongue is french and i can perfectly understand everything that you say. Im new to your channel and i've liked your beadroller video since i want to get one for myself soon enough. I just wish i could have a large enough shop to get a lathe and a milling like you. Looking forward to your next videos!
Thank you. And you don't need a very large space. You be amazed what you can do in a small space. My last shop was only 30% this size and I did the same projects. So just go and start building ;-)
@@bartharkemametalworks2299 sure will one day! I'm already taking a lot of space in my dad's garage. Will have to wait until I get my own shop. Thanks for the input.
Starting in reverse on full power and no brake - problem. I think the solution is just the cams that operate microswitch 2 (top right at 18:30). Note the way it works properly. Note bottom microswitch appears to switch from soft start to full power. - so, in the way it works properly, the soft start operates top left microswitch - so soft start reverse should operate top right microswitch but is not moving the switch far enough. Note correct start - top left microswitch is fully on top of the cam but in reverse start the top right microswitch is not on the top of the cam - and it should be. It needs the screw in the cam loosening and the cam sliding up a little to get that switch operating first before the lower switch.
Try it out manually. Using insulated tools (prods) with power on, ready to start, operated the top right microswitch - should give you soft start in reverse. If it does, then I've correctly diagnosed the problem for you - really helpful section of video there for this diagnosis !
I just got my own Okuma LS home to the shop and set up. A big thank you for this series, has helped alot in sorting through the ins and outs.
That brake addition is interesting on your lathe, do you have any further information on it? Mine has some remnants of a manual type brake but not electrically driven. Thanks again!
25:50 most probably for when you're turning up to a shoulder. Go in with your finish pass and feed out on the shoulder to finish it.
Why the cross-feed on the lathe goes outwards is for safety reasons. If the switching handle is pressed while the carriage is being fed against the spindle, the transverse slide will be fed outwards. I have read this in the Operations Manual page 37
Thanks. Yes I heard this was the reason. Still not sure if I like it.
You have bought an AWESOME lathe watching your video. You don't see many Japanese lathes compared to other makes. The oil in the headstock looks very clean, lets hope its been looked after all over. The features on the tailstock are amazing. Never seen a chuck like that, it must be quicker in a one off or maintenance shop once you get to know how to use it. I think that's why it on, it suits the lathe. Your English is very good A1 no complaints. Tony
Thank you Tony 👍
Yep - insert work into chuck - zip jaws to size then finally tighten. Interesting and novel solution !
Gefeliciteerd met je nieuwe draaibank, hoop je loos de probleem snel 👍👍, trouwens jouw Engels is het meer dan goed, maak je niet zo druk, je kennis is veel te bewonderen 😉
Dank je. En druk maken over Engels valt wel mee hoor. Alleen door het een keer te noemen veranderd het perspectief iets. Het maakt het wat relaxter en dan hoef ik er zelf niet meer zo op te letten.
Oh, yeah! A very fine machine. The feature I like best is that whopping cast iron base casting. When the bed casting is secured to the base casting it forms a stiff box greatly enhancing its rigidity. While I've never had a chance to test the alignment of an Okuma SL, I can foresee from its construction its alignment is pretty independent fom its support. You migt even support it on three points if theyre carefully selected - two under the headstock and one under the tailstock end. In any case, follow the installation instructions. I'm merely outlining an experiment I would try had I the opportunity.
Getting back to your Okuma lathe, that is one of the best production lathes made in its generation, ranking with the Axelson, Monarch, and Dean Smith and Grace. Let us know of any novel features you find.
Thanks, yes its a great lathe. Will do a few video's about it. Agree that the base is very strong. Still I want to make a stronger and level ground frame in the future instead of the wooden pallets. But I will always need the option to move it away from the wall because the chip pan and electrical cabinet can only be reached at the back side.
nice, i just picked up a Clausing 1500, needs some work but i'm happy
Thanks. The Clausing also looks like a great Lathe
Hey your English is as good or better than a lot of people that live in a English speaking country, not to worry about it. I commend you your ability to speak more than one language. I wish I could understand a few Eastern Europe languages, as there is a lot of really fine machining channels out there that I can only watch but can’t understand.
Thank you!
I have the Korean version. It has the same micarta gear in it. It was worn out and prevented the carriage from engaging.
I believe it is to stop having a crash into the spindle if you forget to select the correct lever. That has happened to me on my conventional lathe where I forgot to disengage the carriage drive and selected the cross slide and the powered up the lathe and bang had a bad crash. A result of not concentrating all on me.
Thanks, that sound like a good and logical reason.
Okumas are very nice Lathes !
With hardened Bedways and the oilpump in the Carriage the condition of the Bed should be still good.
I think you just need to refill the Carriage sump, the Tonna 68 you used on the Schaublin should be fine here too.
Thanks, and I will check if I can use the same Tellus and Tonna oil for this lathe. But I think the 68 will be fine.
Mooie machine Bart.
Deze zijn lekker zwaar en stabiel ideaal voor het wat zwaardere werk.
Ik zou hem thuis ook wel willen hebben😁
Dank je. En ja, je hebt er wel een grote ruimte voor nodig. Op het moment staat er een op marktplaats maar wel een stuk duurder dan wat ik ervoor betaald heb.
Hello! The problem with the soft start is the microswitches at the handle. It is warn out, i had same problem with mine when i got it. Throw away first microswitch for forward and reverse, and install a timeswitch realy in the box behind that switches the from Y to D after 4 seconds for example. The you dont have to worry about the stadges in the lever, just put it in second stage and the time realey will change to D after the time you want. I can mail pics if you need
Thanks! I will check the switches and the timer is also a good idea
Mooi nieuw speeltje , grotere beitel en de voeding een paar stappen hoger je was nu nog maar aan het aaien werken moet de draaibank. Kijk naar jou volgend project met de Okuma 👍👍😊
Dank je! Klopt dat de machine veel meer kan dan wat ik nu heb gedaan. Grotere beitel is nodig maar ook beter gevoel met de 3 klauw. Deze staat nu aan de voorkant wat open bij grotere klem kracht. Hier heb ik nog niet veel vertrouwen in voor grotere voorzet. MIsschien kan ik deze opnieuw slijpen want ze zijn zichtbaar wat versleten. En er zit ook wat speling op. Anders andere klauw organiseren. Heb je tips voor beitels met goede prijs / kwaliteit verhouding? En wat voor types?
I have one 👍👍👍
I had a LS had the same problem traced the fault to micro switches in the lower front cabinet which was not opening. It's the one thing l did not like not having a clutch.
Thanks, will check if the micro switches are working 👍
great machine. already blue ; )
Thanks! And yes I really like the color. To bad the paint is in a bad condition.
Great lathes. The gear is a sacrificial gear, I think the original is made of a fiber as I recall. I made a new one because on my LS one of the teeth had a chip. I made a few extras, if you need one look me up on the internet just type in my name. Prince Edward Island Canada.
Bart, my experience is that those belts provide a much smoother and quieter drive than the standard V belt. I would keep them on.
Thanks for the information. I have no reference and these belts are in good conditions so I will leave them on. Saves me some money 😁👍
Bart Harkema Metalwork. A friend and I recently replaced our “v” belts on a wood lathe and drill press to reduce the amount of vibration we were getting. We noticed a significant improvement, which supported the advice we received. The “link” belts were not cheap, but worth it if you want a smooth running machine. I like your new lathe. I would like to get a Takasawa some day too. Enjoy your work.
Thanks brother i want see okuma ls 10 old 1965
Wow you been busy. Building and buying Machines.
nice lathe
I'm going to buy a Okuma lathe. It is the best Japanese machine. If you have a link for the Okuma LS manual, Can you please send the link for the manual.
Nice lathe Bart, and the English is fine. Thanks for taking the trouble to learn it. Have you learned the very bad words yet for when things go wrong? Thanks for posting.
Thanks, and about the bad words. I watch enough AvE to get that covert ;-)
I have a similar machine, mine is the longest version but yours is newer as it is 1971. Your top shifter is outside the electrical box, mine has a bigger box and the shifter goes through the box.
Nice, and thank you for the information
I forgot to mention my lathe has a cam lock spindle. I suppose someone changed it years ago.
Great lathe and excellent communication, engaging and easy to understand ( great forward planning by your country to have 3ph domestic supply no such luck here in 🇮🇪)
Thank you!
My LS tool post [original] can be set at angles others than the four 90's . Where is the carriage lock? can't find it on my LS !!
Clockwise without soft start - will be more than 10 horse power ! Probably 3 times - i.e. 30HP - so 'soft-start' will reduce that to 15.
I ran an Okuma very similar to that one for 14 years. To brake you simply shift into reverse briefly until rpms hit zero or nearly zero. There was not an actual brake. The machine is made to handle going into full reverse from full speed. That works very well once you've tried it a couple times. I loved the machine. It was a beast.
Also I really liked the two speed MANUAL carriage hand wheel feature by pulling in and out. In case you haven't discovered that yet.
Dynamic breaking? I’ve never seen a gear head lathe that you could do that on without damage. It didn’t damage the gears at all when it was instantly reversed?
@@ubob703Robert Thanks for the information. I read in the manual that you can use the direction switch to stop the spindle. Still someone added a electrical brake. I like it. And the problem that I have at the moment is that it won't do a soft start (star) in clockwise rotation. And I dont think its a good idea to switch rotation at full power (I tried, not fun). This wont stop the spindle, it just goes full power in the other direction. About the manual two speed carriage handwheel feature, I dont know about that one. How does it work?
@@jhueth3969 Yes you can do that, its even in the manual: 'To brake the spindle rotation, Le, to stop the spindle instantly, proceed as follows :
Place the lever directly from the "Forward Rotation" to the "Cushion Start" position without stopping it in its neutral position and then immediately return it to the neutral position at the very moment the spindle comes to a stop and would change the direc- tion of rotation'.
@@jhueth3969 Nope. That machine never ever broke!
You have a Star Delta starter to reduce starting current.
Confirm Star contactor and main contactor close first, after timer times out Delta contactor will close and Star contactor will open.
I like the Tailstock lift running the tailstock on bearings, alleviating wear.
Thanks. The star delta on this system has no timer. Just different relays that are switched with the handle in front of the lathe. So you have to be your own timer ;-). I will check the closing / opening sequence.
I don't think it has a 'main' contactor. Only 4 main contactors: star, delta, forward, reverse. Needs no more!
Typical Star, Delta has has 3 contactors, Main, Star and Delta.
On start Main and Star close simultaneously and after a time delay Star opens and Delta closes, Star and Delta are inter locked mechanically or electrically to prevent both contactors being closed at the same time to stop the smoke coming out.🙂
Your forward and reverse are your MAIN contactors.
@@willemvantsant7416 It doesn't need three !
8:35 The first gear for the feeds drive-train is not metal so it's the one that fails when everything jams up ! A bit like the equivalent of an electric fuse ! Might be an idea to have a spare one !
Also makes it a lot quieter.
@@TheMetalButcher You must have come across a few rough gears then ;)
Myford ML7 uses a metal gear and so do Colchester lathes.
Hi Bart, I think we had contact on Practical Machinist about the manuals.
Bice to see you bought this one, saw it on the auction site too! Looks like the machine is in good condition. Does yours have a disc brake?
In any case, a heavy duty machine, superb quality, many nice details to aid with attaining high accuracy and still quite easy to service. Can move huge amounts of metal and still has that smooth tool room lathe kinda feel.
Hi Botje, yes same person. I really like the machine. Taking it slow (in between customer jobs) to clean everything and make sure it runs good. I'm doing a small series on it on my channel. At the moment working on the compound slide and toolpost.
@@bartharkemametalworks2299 Yes, great work. When I have more time/space I plan to do more work too (already did enough to make sure nothing gets damaged, you've seen the pirctures). Your video's show me what to expect :)
PS: random thing I remembered, the oil windows are available at Smeertechniek Rotterdam (22 and 32mm) ;)
@@neonalon Thanks, maybe ill buy new oil glas. Is it press fit or with tread? Btw, if you have instagram we can also chat there (bartharkema). Its a bit easier and would be nice to share a bit more.
Earth Leakage Contact Breaker. ELCB in Britain, now RCD. German is called Fehlstromschutzschalter or something. Holland will have similar devices, mounted in the power distribution board. They measure total electrical current going out on the phase(s) or live wire(s) and compare that with the current returning on the (N) neutral wire. Big difference trips the breaker. 30mA is a common value.
In many smaller 3 phase machines like yours the controls are powered by only 1 of the 3 phases, L1 for example and Neutral providing power for the contactors (power relays) that control the machine functions. You may need an experienced electrician to help find a safe working solution. Good luck with your new machine!
Thank for the information. I'm confident enough to use it right now but will ask a experienced electrician to try to fix the problem with the clockwise rotation soft start.
@@bartharkemametalworks2299 needs a mechanic, not electrician ! Hopefully my explanation will sort it for you.
Power feed, saddle and cross slide directions - that seems the normal way - towards the chuck and away from centre. Is your other lathe not like that ?
First
Lol, your the cool kid now 😆😉. Btw, not sure who bought it first... 🤔
Bart Harkema Metalwork im not a kid man. Im 200 years old now.
@ Yes I know. But you look cool and young so I just call you the 'Cool Kid'. And 'This Old Guy' was already reserved for someone called Tony.
Bart Harkema Metalwork i think i'd already bought it a few days before i saw your post. Im just kept it until released the video.
Another list I didn’t make 😭
In the manual, it says, that why it goes from center to out is safety reasons. It says nothibg els. I dont like it eather.... very anoying. Can it be rebuilt?
Maybe you can rebuild it but you have to make changes in the gears or use left hand lead screw. But the last one will be anoying for hand use. So I just leave it and try to get used to it.
Do you perhaps have a control manual for a Okuma Dong Yang Lathe Model LS Serial 4209-11364?
Yes, send me an email to bartharkema at gmail dot com.
The problem with your tripping RCD ist the connection of the green/yellow Protective Earth and the blue Neutral Wire.
You Probably only need to disconnect both blue Wires from the Terminal on the Housing and connect them to each other on an isolated terminal block. But better get an Electrician to do the Work.
The only thing on this Machine that needs the Neutral should be the Lamp Circuit and eventually the soft starter.
Yes I thought about that. But there are many connections with the neutral on the base. And I need it for the single fase connection (lamp, dro, ect). I will ask a electrician in the future to have a better look.
'Soft starter' is standard star-delta - no neutral required.
My english is very, very bad, but as a German I understand you very well.
A really very beautiful machine, but the best is the "Forkardt" chuck - very expensive if you want to by a new one. The serial Number includes the string "4711". It is a very known number for "Kölnisch Wasser" here in Germany. Very funny.
I hope the chuck smells not like the perfume. ;-)
Thanks, Good to hear that the Forkardt is a good chuck. And luckily no perfume smell ;-). But maybe I can use that Kölnisch Wasser as cutting oil? ;-)
Visited Koln in the 1980s - 4711 got a mention !
It's a bit bizar that you can not set the toolpost at any angle you want. But i'm sure you'll fix that.
Nice machine, you gonna have lots of fun with it.
Yes my Harrison M250 is the same
Thanks. I think a multifix will fix the problem ;-)
Mooie machine Bart, zou een optie zijn om spindel in de dwarssupport te wijzigen van een linkse naar een rechtse of andersom, volgens mij krijg je dan wel de juiste richting van buiten naar binnen.
Ja dat zou misschien een optie zijn. Bedankt.
Bekijk even het antwoord van Taunus. Deze uitvoering is wel correct hoor, mijn Celtic doet hetzelfde. Je mag/kan de draairichting wel veranderen zonder te stoppen. Het went heel snel hoor. In ieder geval een heel mooie machine!
Great lathe for sure the non metallic gear is from the factory,it was placed in the gear train to prevent wear .
Could potentially be phenolic resin.
@@VastCNC yes
Yes commonly Tufnell and also make a quieter running gear train
Thanks guys!
16:07 That's a screw-in fuse !
I see it has a Forkardt chuck good chuck, have you used them before? you have to keep them clean.
Thanks, yes nice Chuck and never used it before. Need to be very careful not to power it with the pin sticking out... This one has some ware on the jaws so it needs a re-grind. I think I will take it apart and give it a good clean.
@@bartharkemametalworks2299 I think the push buttons will hold the jaws at low RPM, every time you bore a tube and try to keep chips from going in the jaw slide area because will get in to rotation ring area inside, and it locks up and you can't adjust jaws, always use a sheet metal sleeve inside the chuck bore to keep chips from going inside.
@@akfarmboy49 thanks for the tip 👍
How much price?
i have this machine in my work..
Any idea how to decode the serial number?
Yes! Its a Japanese calendar thing. Take the first two numbers of the serial number tag and add 25. This was the year the machine was made. The second set is the month. The last 4 numbers are the serial nr.
Do you think the reversed auto-feeds is by design so that you don't screw up your workpiece? If both moved in, as you want, you could easily have your selector knob in the wrong position, messing up your work. Say you're wanting to take down the diameter of the middle of a shaft, you touch off, feed-in to your depth, and you engage your auto-feed, and ooopppps! You had your selector knob set for facing instead. Now your cutter just dug deeper into your workpiece. The way they designed it, if you make that mistake the auto-feed will just pull your cutter away from the workpiece, causing no harm.
Yes I think that is the reason. Some more people came with this explanation. Still a bit annoying because I do have to switch of the lathe to change the direction.
@@bartharkemametalworks2299 yes, I see perfectly how this would be annoying. All lathes I've worked on use completely different levers to engage auto-feeds. Which I believe is a better design, but, I'm still super jealous of your new lathe!
Any idea what year it is? Can't imagine the Germans and Japanese were allowed to play together after that little episode.
No not exactly. Build start somewhere in 1960 and I think this one is around 1970 so I think the German - Japan aspect was not so important any more at that time.
@@bartharkemametalworks2299 Mid 1960s a great era for machine tools ! Have a '63 lathe and '65 milling machine.
This lathe is made in the year 46 of the Emperor Shōwa 昭和天(r. 1926-1989 AD) era. The year is found in the serial number; first two digits.
So 1926+46=1972.
Mine is made in 1974 and the signs are also in German, in line with all Okuma LS machines I have seen in the Netherlands.
hey 1:08. he is vietnamese not japanese. "cà lem" = ice cream
Yes I know 👍
@@bartharkemametalworks2299 how much you buy okuma 2 year ago ? in vietnamese now old okuma lathe is 3700-4000$. after 2 years the machine is still good ??