The original thermistors on the SV650 N/S 2nd generation and I believe the SV1000 were Panasonic that are no longer available. These were replaced by some when they went U/S with NTC Thermistor TYPE RL2004-582-97-T10 Rated at 1,000 ohms at 25 degrees Celsius. Cold resistance is between 900 and 1200 ohms. That resistor in turn was replaced by a later one to the same spec and should be easily available on the Internet. You probably know that the fuel cools the fuel pump and keeps the thermistor cool so high resistance and when low fuel the thermistor being uncovered heats up reducing the resistance. Later 2nd gen SV650s had two thermistors at different levels to give an indication of needing fuel and really low level. This may have been incorporated into later SV1000s.
Just had a quick look at a few of my manuals, only found a couple. XS1100 set meter to R x 100 range is 1,500 +/- 100 ohms at 25*C. Cagiva Navigator (My dad's bike with the same engine as the Suzuki TL1000) 750 to 1100 ohms at 25*C Looks like you will need to find the right range for the SV, too broad a range of thermistors out there :/
*Looks at his 9 year old Yamaha and weeps* Ye I have to give them that looking at the overall condition the bike is in. Paint is chipping on the seams on the tank on my FZ6 and the underside looks like teenagers face.
My tanks looks like it was coated with something on the inside. Where you jab the petrol dick thing whatever was coating got scratched up. Saying that my Suzuki EN125 had a spotless tank (sans few sports on the top which were from UV) and that looked like it spend few weeks on the canal at some point.
Wait a minute. Increasing the temperature increases the ohm resistance, it is not the other way around. That is why, for example, superconductors in expirements are usualy super cooled using liquid nitrogen.
The Workshop The Suzuki manual shows a battery, lightbulb wired through thermistor. On out of water, off when immersed. 03 only has a low level light, if yours is the same (looks like mine) it should work like this according to factory manual.
The Workshop Called a thermistor in fuelpump section, troubleshooting section calls it "Fuel Level Indicator Switch Inspection". Looks like yours in the picture.
yeah i get what you mean but...... 1) it doesn't work. 2) the circuit is fine until you get to the thermistor 3) the resistance range is in the Mega Ohms - which is really high 4) I needed to know the resistance range of a good one which i think I've got talking to an EE at work. The test will show me what I already know, it doesn't work - part 2 will be coming soon.
Yes I would and I did, but I wanted to see exactly how it was attached and see if I could see any physical damage. Its broken, but why, was the question - hence the exploration.
The fuel pump is exactly the same as gsxr 1000 k3-k4.But many bikes of those years used a thermistor for low fuel level warning.What i did to my k3? I went to a shop with spare parts and bought a cbr600f fuel level sensor for 15€.I carefully cut the thermistor and weld it to the gsxr thermistor assembly.
Great bike - had the 650 for about 4 -5 years, this is 50% better. The clutch is fucked and a lot of them are so be warned. They suffer from 'chudder' in a video soon. To check the clutch just ride under 3k in first/second - if it feels like shit then you know the clutch needs modding. Shit as in really jerky. £1700 is what I paid - 43k on the clock
1700? they go for 3000 euros here...normally. I thought a all stock sv1000 engine (+gearing) just doesn't like riding below 3000RPM.. isn't that why it can be jerky? I'm thinking of changing to a 16t sprocket very quickly
So yeah, just picked it up and it does have the chudder issue. I was thinking of not buying but I was amazed to find that pretty much every SV/DL1000 has this issue eventually. Apparently even new OEM clutch baskets can have this from the start, and if not will get it one way or the other. It ruins the low-rpm ridability though, entire bike vibrates even for about 1 second at. So I'm thinking about having it modded, quite expensive unfortunately...Looking forward to your video.
Please open the "read more" for a link to a test rig test rig you can use without having to know the thermistors resistance,,, I've just been reading a SV1000 forum which suggests the resistance of the thermistor should go down as it gets warm.. Heat is generated by a very small current of electricity, but is not enough when the thermistor is immersed in the fuel. Depending on the year of your SV1000 could mean the fuel lamp will start to flash at 1.1 gal and constantly on at 0.4 gal... Have you checked the fuel lamp bulb too? Here is the test rig you can use without having to know the thermistors resistance,,, www.triumphrat.net/attachments/speed-triple-forum/26107d1276468502-question-about-fuel-level-sensor-fuel_thermistor.jpg
I've been digging a bit further.. I think your bike is an earlier one with the light only coming on at low fuel because it has one thermistor .. It would have two thermistors attached one above the other on the same rail if it was a later model.. Also I have read that the ZX1400 (what ever the UK version is) uses the same one..
The original thermistors on the SV650 N/S 2nd generation and I believe the SV1000 were Panasonic that are no longer available. These were replaced by some when they went U/S with
NTC Thermistor TYPE RL2004-582-97-T10
Rated at 1,000 ohms at 25 degrees Celsius.
Cold resistance is between 900 and 1200 ohms.
That resistor in turn was replaced by a later one to the same spec and should be easily available on the Internet. You probably know that the fuel cools the fuel pump and keeps the thermistor cool so high resistance and when low fuel the thermistor being uncovered heats up reducing the resistance. Later 2nd gen SV650s had two thermistors at different levels to give an indication of needing fuel and really low level. This may have been incorporated into later SV1000s.
That's fucking awesome cheers dude! Like really - Just fitted a 1.5k.
I think megohms is way high for a PTC thermistor . Most run in the kilohms range . Generally 10k @ 25°C
Just had a quick look at a few of my manuals, only found a couple. XS1100 set meter to R x 100 range is 1,500 +/- 100 ohms at 25*C. Cagiva Navigator (My dad's bike with the same engine as the Suzuki TL1000) 750 to 1100 ohms at 25*C Looks like you will need to find the right range for the SV, too broad a range of thermistors out there :/
I've been talking to the geeks at work and they think 1.5k Ohms so I've ordered a few - fixing video coming soon
*Looks at the seams on the tank*
Man that is some quality sheet metalwork. I know what problem you are having with it, its a Suzuki lol.
Saying that the inside of the tank is almost spotless - little to no rust. For a 13 year old bike it looks quite good
*Looks at his 9 year old Yamaha and weeps*
Ye I have to give them that looking at the overall condition the bike is in. Paint is chipping on the seams on the tank on my FZ6 and the underside looks like teenagers face.
When I go back in I'll shot some of the inside
My tanks looks like it was coated with something on the inside. Where you jab the petrol dick thing whatever was coating got scratched up. Saying that my Suzuki EN125 had a spotless tank (sans few sports on the top which were from UV) and that looked like it spend few weeks on the canal at some point.
Wait a minute. Increasing the temperature increases the ohm resistance, it is not the other way around. That is why, for example, superconductors in expirements are usualy super cooled using liquid nitrogen.
Yes it should be, but it is fucked, need to ask the electricity geeks at work why its the wrong way round
depends on the type of thermistor.PTC's resistance goes up when you heat it and NTC's goes down
I have those paddock stands 😊
The thermistor should be an open circuit when immersed in water, no resistance figures given in 03 Suzuki manual.
"The thermistor should be an open circuit when immersed in water"
are you sure? That doesn't sound right. Its a thermal resistor not a switch
The Workshop The Suzuki manual shows a battery, lightbulb wired through thermistor. On out of water, off when immersed. 03 only has a low level light, if yours is the same (looks like mine) it should work like this according to factory manual.
The Workshop
Called a thermistor in fuelpump section, troubleshooting section calls it "Fuel Level Indicator Switch Inspection". Looks like yours in the picture.
yeah i get what you mean but......
1) it doesn't work.
2) the circuit is fine until you get to the thermistor
3) the resistance range is in the Mega Ohms - which is really high
4) I needed to know the resistance range of a good one which i think I've got talking to an EE at work.
The test will show me what I already know, it doesn't work - part 2 will be coming soon.
Matt, I commented on FB, the sensor should be in the region of 1k at "room temperature" and is NTC, I have posted details of a type that will work.
Only to make a test would it not be possible to use a potentiometer outside the tank in place of the thermistor?
Yes I would and I did, but I wanted to see exactly how it was attached and see if I could see any physical damage. Its broken, but why, was the question - hence the exploration.
Did you changed the Thermistor in the fuel sensor unit? Or did you bought the whole spare part? Price is 180€😢 Thanks for the help
I changed the thermistor and that sorted it
The fuel pump is exactly the same as gsxr 1000 k3-k4.But many bikes of those years used a thermistor for low fuel level warning.What i did to my k3? I went to a shop with spare parts and bought a cbr600f fuel level sensor for 15€.I carefully cut the thermistor and weld it to the gsxr thermistor assembly.
Hey! You think that by fitting this extra fairing I cannot see the corossion on the water pump cover??? Fix it ffs!!!
:P
How are you liking it so far?
How much did you get it for?
I might be picking one up this weekend :) (2003 model)
Great bike - had the 650 for about 4 -5 years, this is 50% better. The clutch is fucked and a lot of them are so be warned. They suffer from 'chudder' in a video soon.
To check the clutch just ride under 3k in first/second - if it feels like shit then you know the clutch needs modding. Shit as in really jerky.
£1700 is what I paid - 43k on the clock
1700? they go for 3000 euros here...normally.
I thought a all stock sv1000 engine (+gearing) just doesn't like riding below 3000RPM.. isn't that why it can be jerky? I'm thinking of changing to a 16t sprocket very quickly
So yeah, just picked it up and it does have the chudder issue. I was thinking of not buying but I was amazed to find that pretty much every SV/DL1000 has this issue eventually. Apparently even new OEM clutch baskets can have this from the start, and if not will get it one way or the other.
It ruins the low-rpm ridability though, entire bike vibrates even for about 1 second at. So I'm thinking about having it modded, quite expensive unfortunately...Looking forward to your video.
My fuel light is always on any ieas,i put a TRE on it thought that could be the problem but removed it and same old.
Do you know the meaning of th code -c00 on 2007 sv1000?
That's the tps adjustment signal. You've plugged in the mode selector...?
I thought , that bike looks VERY clean until that happened
nice multimeter
£178 for a Thermistor, shiiiiiitt.... :O
Its not just the thermistor - the entire assembly - but yeah if fucking steep!
Usually a problem I have 🙄you know a sensor reads a certain thing, you can measure it, but what the fuck is supposed to say?🙄
You will have to do a graph measured out in Wayne's 🤣
This thermistor? Part code:15170-35F10
Yes the price is fucking mental!
The Workshop Brutal £
Did you changed the Thermistor or bought the complete tanksensor? May someone else can help. Mine did broken and the spare parts is 180€😅 Thanks guys
Fatboy Slim there - Fucking excellent song - video clip for it too has got to be up there as well. awesome.
90's, early 00's nostalgia!! :_)
Almost 18 years passed from the release of that particular song...
Fuck off I don't wanna hear it LOL
Dood stop getting obsessed with your fingers poking stuff lol
Go on SV Rider BBs, they will know.
go where?
SVrider forum
www.svrider.com/forum/
Please open the "read more" for a link to a test rig test rig you can use without having to know the thermistors resistance,,,
I've just been reading a SV1000 forum which suggests the resistance of the thermistor should go down as it gets warm..
Heat is generated by a very small current of electricity, but is not enough when the thermistor is immersed in the fuel. Depending on the year of your SV1000 could mean the fuel lamp will start to flash at 1.1 gal and constantly on at 0.4 gal...
Have you checked the fuel lamp bulb too?
Here is the test rig you can use without having to know the thermistors resistance,,,
www.triumphrat.net/attachments/speed-triple-forum/26107d1276468502-question-about-fuel-level-sensor-fuel_thermistor.jpg
"Have you checked the fuel lamp bulb too?"
- the bulb comes on as a test when you start the bike.
I've been digging a bit further.. I think your bike is an earlier one with the light only coming on at low fuel because it has one thermistor .. It would have two thermistors attached one above the other on the same rail if it was a later model.. Also I have read that the ZX1400 (what ever the UK version is) uses the same one..
First
fuuuuuuuck
What the fuck happened!?