@E.G. I did isolate the start relay out of the picture totally and had failures. The wire that goes from the start relay contacts down to the starter solenoid can get corroded and give this same indication. Had to wiggle the wire to get a better connection. Finally had to replace starter, no more problems at all for about a year. Thanks for your input to the problem.
You say the power going through the push button is low watts or amps, what is the amount of power going through the switch? You say the engine will not crank. The word crank means only that the engine will turn over but not start, if the engine fires up to run, that is not called cranks. With your key out and you push the button only, this is called a crank, no start condition. Did you try to start the engine with the key in the run position and push your button, does the engine crank with a no start? Do you actually need to hold the key in the start position? Can you turn the key to the run position and while the fuel pump is priming, quickly push the button, will it start while the computer is in the prime mode for the first couple of seconds? Thank you.
@Duane Donaldson, I have made more discoveries about the intermittent start problem that has plagued us all for a long time. The push button idea was just an emergency action to bypass the start relay. I stated low current, it is only energizing the starter solenoid. Then the solenoid delivers the high current to the starter. The push button is not necessary, there are other things that need to be addressed. I found that the connection spade connector could be wiggled and clean the contact to allow starting. I did this for about a year and not very often, but it worked when the problem occurred. Finally this failed one day, at home in the garage, it would not start, no matter how much I wiggled the connector on the starter solenoid. I have a video that I show testing the starter at the contacts of the starter relay. I short the contacts and only a loud click of the starter solenoid. Over and over. This meant that the starter solenoid was operating, but the starter was not turning. I knew from this test, the contacts on the solenoid were good and the starter had to be bad or the contacts on the solenoid were bad. You have to remove the starter at this point. I did remove the starter and installed a new one. Started like a champ with even higher starting rpm, motor turned faster with the new starter. Just a recap for all that read this. This problem first started around 2013 and I found that changing the start relay corrected the problem for a long while, but it would come back occasionally. Changing the relay seem to be the problem. Later I found changing the relay did not allow it to start. I went to the next point in the chain for current to flow for problem and that was the connector at the starter solenoid. I found that now this was a place that I could wiggle and get a good quick start. I did this up until it just quit and noting would work. Starter was bad. A lot of folks at the beginning of this problem stated that they had changed the starter and the problem still happened. Lots of folks. I believe this problem had all three problems and it just was not one issue. Anyway, everyone will need to change the starter at some time, that is the final solution. Do not install a push button switch, not needed. Good luck to all Jeep owners with this problem. I am going to place my Playlist of video on all Jeep problems I have to let all see how to replace the starter and a number of other problems. th-cam.com/video/ZgPdJbg-5Yk/w-d-xo.html
Thanks sir solved !
2005 jeep grand cherokee 3.7
Did u ever check the ground wire connection in the starter relay??... some people claim that is not making a good connection..
@E.G. I did isolate the start relay out of the picture totally and had failures. The wire that goes from the start relay contacts down to the starter solenoid can get corroded and give this same indication. Had to wiggle the wire to get a better connection. Finally had to replace starter, no more problems at all for about a year. Thanks for your input to the problem.
You say the power going through the push button is low watts or amps, what is the amount of power going through the switch? You say the engine will not crank. The word crank means only that the engine will turn over but not start, if the engine fires up to run, that is not called cranks. With your key out and you push the button only, this is called a crank, no start condition. Did you try to start the engine with the key in the run position and push your button, does the engine crank with a no start? Do you actually need to hold the key in the start position? Can you turn the key to the run position and while the fuel pump is priming, quickly push the button, will it start while the computer is in the prime mode for the first couple of seconds? Thank you.
@Duane Donaldson, I have made more discoveries about the intermittent start problem that has plagued us all for a long time. The push button idea was just an emergency action to bypass the start relay. I stated low current, it is only energizing the starter solenoid. Then the solenoid delivers the high current to the starter. The push button is not necessary, there are other things that need to be addressed. I found that the connection spade connector could be wiggled and clean the contact to allow starting. I did this for about a year and not very often, but it worked when the problem occurred. Finally this failed one day, at home in the garage, it would not start, no matter how much I wiggled the connector on the starter solenoid. I have a video that I show testing the starter at the contacts of the starter relay. I short the contacts and only a loud click of the starter solenoid. Over and over. This meant that the starter solenoid was operating, but the starter was not turning. I knew from this test, the contacts on the solenoid were good and the starter had to be bad or the contacts on the solenoid were bad. You have to remove the starter at this point. I did remove the starter and installed a new one. Started like a champ with even higher starting rpm, motor turned faster with the new starter.
Just a recap for all that read this. This problem first started around 2013 and I found that changing the start relay corrected the problem for a long while, but it would come back occasionally. Changing the relay seem to be the problem.
Later I found changing the relay did not allow it to start. I went to the next point in the chain for current to flow for problem and that was the connector at the starter solenoid. I found that now this was a place that I could wiggle and get a good quick start. I did this up until it just quit and noting would work. Starter was bad.
A lot of folks at the beginning of this problem stated that they had changed the starter and the problem still happened. Lots of folks. I believe this problem had all three problems and it just was not one issue. Anyway, everyone will need to change the starter at some time, that is the final solution. Do not install a push button switch, not needed.
Good luck to all Jeep owners with this problem. I am going to place my Playlist of video on all Jeep problems I have to let all see how to replace the starter and a number of other problems.
th-cam.com/video/ZgPdJbg-5Yk/w-d-xo.html