With the 7kWh pack, my guess from very similar builds with 4kWh packs at 240lbs is that you will end up with a bike that is over 260lbs, but we are not spandex wearing road bicycle weight weenies! This is dirt bikes and this build looks awesome!! 100
Haha the goal is to stay under 260 so it weighs less than the Varg with more battery than the EX Varg. I think we can make it happen. The battery is built very efficiently with very energy dense 21700 cells.
I agree with you 100% on building a better E moto then present manufacturers. I have 2 now one being a Talaria and have an Altis on the way. I have ability to build my own but without the time and tools needed (welder, cutters and drill presses) this can be quite tough for most in my position but I think you have a great build ahead of you and i am going to be tuning in for it! Can’t wait to see it start!
I built a 2007 CR450 using the Electric & Co kit and a 3700 KW battery. Mine weighs 228lbs. It came out great and I prefer riding it compared to my gas bikes. I am interested to see how your battery comes together. Please do a range test video after you complete your build. 👍
electric bikes (and ebikes) are game changing technologies because the power unit is just so damn simple when compared to ICE. there are also major investments being made into batteries and the power units that we all benefit from. i think the only bit of real innovation that will remain is going to be in the software experience (controllers, phones for hud etc). truly an exciting time for everyone who loves this space. stark is going to have to own the "luxury" segment because surron and 100 small indy companies are going to battle it out for the low/mid market segments which is going to be enough for 90% of people.
I hope to see and be apart of much more battery innovation too. Its exciting to see how quick its gotten so much better. Once we can get the range in line with these new 2 stroke bikes I think our community will grow an incredible amount.
Good point, I'm a little scared at this point since I don't want to advertise these parts to anyone before I test them. They "should" be the best options but they could be garbage for all I know without testing. I'll definitely be going into detail on build sheets after I get it finished and know the final build sheet.
Sounds exciting! Best of luck and hope it works out! I'll be keeping an eye on the build and if it works, might even try and replicate it. Just a bit of feedback, please get a decent microphone, the sound isn't great atm, but it is a quick and cheap fix.
Thanks! I hope you do! Thanks for the feedback, I didnt want to hurry and buy all the expensive equipment so feedback on the things that are needed the most is very helpful. I'll research what options are good. How is the volume? Thats something I can adjust separately from the mic.
Can’t wait for the build series. Going to be sick. I was dreaming about trying to get my hands on some Catl solid state pouches and building a pack from that. But I may still be a few years out. Can’t wait to see this machine built. It may just make me jump on board and build something similar to your bike in the intern.
All the concepts offered are valid. Interested in the settings you end up using on the FarDriver. 28s is what the too heavy Zero bike I have runs, but have been using 20 or 22s with EBMX X9000 on my builds which honestly is plenty of power on trails for my skill level. Is there three wires (potentiometer device) built into that lever or two wires for a switch? I've been looking for a three wire brake lever besides the $12 one from the cheap scooters that sells on Amazon that doesn't have the hydraulic system so the feel isn't good but it works for variable amount of regen great. I would use the handle to actuate the caliper as well so it could hold the bike in place at a stop and loading up the bike etc. if it has three wires, but I get it people like their foot brake they are used to; I just never rode dirt bikes before and electric made all this fun accessible for me without the noise, stank, top end rebuilds, plus cheating by always being in the right gear. People can store a bike like you are building in their apartment if need be; so awesome.
I think the one that came with that lever is a 2 wire so I'll probably end up using the port for a pressure transducer. If you do make a setup with regen-over-manual brake on one lever, please let me know how it goes. Very interesting, seems like it would be hard to tune how much the regen comes on before applying the actual rear brake. I like the foot brake set up just for keeping it separated and easy.
Very interesting indeed... i do some singletrack in northwest Montana and near Bonners Ferry Idaho on a Beta 300RR and have ridden a modded Ultra Bee briefly. I've been contemplating converting a YZ with the Electro & Co. Kit or getting a UB and trying to leave it mostly stock... I'll be watching what you do for sure, thanks for documenting.
I also was contemplating the kit from electro and co but ended up avoiding it for a few reasons like: 1. Too low of voltage to run high watts reliably and efficiently because of the needed amps. (Same reason for not using the EBMX X-9000 controller) 2. The EM-260 controller is not easily tunable, they tune it for what they think everyone wants and hope it works. (I'm too picky) 3. No battery options with enough capacity. Even the battery thats $1500 extra is only 5.7KWH 4. The weight is positioned high and forward which make the bike feel much heavier than it is. 5. For about the price of the base YZ-E kit,(including the price of my donor bike) I'm going to have significantly more range, tunability, quality, efficiency, and power. I'll dive more into this in later videos. I am a fan of their upgraded qs138 motors, and I do like them as a company. Thanks for commenting, I hope to hear what you try out!
Hey good luck on the build i am really looking forward to seeing the build and final product , youre on point with the whole range thing tho thats a major factor , i currently have a talaria mx5 for trail riding and im impressed but would love more range its like the grail . Arctic leopard make a great bike i hope your build will surpass that . Like i say really looking forward to following this along best of luck 👍
Thanks! Yeah I tried a modified sur ron once. Ended up being towed behind a KTM 300 for 3 miles... The Arctic leopards do seem to have the most impressive range of any New bikes. It would be awesome to beat them at range.
I totally get what you mean with the Varg’s power, the most powerful bike I’ve ever ridden was a worn out 250 two stroke and that was plenty of power for me so if I built a bike like this I don’t think I’ll need anywhere near 80 horsepower. I would probably use the fardriver 108450 controller (270 line amps) with a custom 30s li-ion battery, which would be 39hp. I would probably use that same BMS that you have. What charger is that? I’ve been looking for a good one for a while now. I don’t think the Fardriver controllers can do variable regen, it’s either on or off. One last thing, those cell continuous current ratings are for a single cell, so they don’t really apply if you cram hundreds of them together. The battery pack will definitely heat up unless you have some kind of cooling fan system that blows cold air through the battery. I recently built a 20s20p pack with 10a continuous discharge 18650s, and I’ve determined that I can’t even do 5a continuous per cell when discharging the pack without the center of the pack reaching over 120 degrees F. I thought I would give you a heads up since you seemed pretty confident that the only thing that might overheat is the motor.
@ It’s possible that it’s continuous, to estimate how hard the cells are working we can work backwards from 80hp. To get watts we multiply 80*745.7=59,656 watts. The Varg battery has 100 cells in series which would be 360 volts nominal, so we divide the watts by the voltage to get the current: 59,656/360=166 amps. The Varg has 4 cells in parallel, so divide the current by the number of parallel cells to get the current per cell: 166/4=41.5 amps. The Varg uses 45 amp continuous cells, so that’s 92% of the cell’s continuous discharge. Normally I would say that would definitely not let the whole battery pack be 80hp continuous, but the Varg battery has a good design where the negative end of all the cells are thermally connected to the aluminum shell of the pack that acts like a heatsink, so maybe on a cold day you could do 80hp continuous.
Thanks for the input, I hope you start a build too. I havent seen that decreased discharge ability from series connections before, I'll definitely have to see if that shows up here. Each cell has a 45 amp peak discharge and 25 amp continuous. I will only be pulling 26-27 max at full tilt which I doubt I'll even get to much. It will be something to test though. For the regen, I thought I had saw in the specs for this controller that it was variable. I'll definitely check now though. Thanks for bringing that up. This charger is a modified R4875G1 from EleCharger. I cant say if I'd recommend it or not yet but it was recommended to me by a couple guys on the endless sphere forum. It only goes up to 118v so it couldnt do 30s.
a stark varg competitor can absolutely be built for less however the stark has one advantage and that is that is is running 360v nominal, higher voltage allows a crappy 18650 or 21700s with poor c rating to be less of an issue which also means less sag, slightly better efficiency and a cooler running system over all, 80hp is easily achievable with 20s if you use high c rating lipos but it will never have the same run time
Higher voltage does help for sure. In the months I spent planning this build I found its actually harder to get the wiring and connections solid enough to avoid voltage sag than it is to find good enough cells. I was originally going to use electro and co's 76v system but there was no way to do it without any voltage sag and efficiency is a huge deal on this build. At 96v I still have almost 400Amps to deal with which is more than any connector I could find is rated for.
I'd be worried about the regen with battery being at 100%, there is not much room for it since your battery is 117,6V at full charge and the controller can handle only 120V
Agreed. Luckily I can use the BMS to regulate the Regen so it shuts it off when its within a set range of what I tell it is max charge. Since regen is not super effective for actually generating power, I doubt there will be much time without the regen brake.
I have two questions, do you think it's possible to fit in there 28s 15p? You mentioned your currently at 14p. And also you didn't show or mention if it is hot swappable the battery. Curious on that
1.Yes, you could absolutely fit that in this frame. Probably even more than that. I only limited mine where it is because of weight. 2.It is not even a little bit hot swappable lol. I am very concerned with power efficiency and I couldn't find any connectors that could take this level of amperage without voltage drop so the leads come straight out of the battery and bolt onto the controller. I also hate battery boxes that the battery can wiggle in so Im building in bolt-on mounts to the battery case.
@BlacksheepEngineering ok thanks for the clear up, I'll wait for the next video hopefully to see you moving up the battery within the frame to get a better idea. Wish you the best
cant wait for that battery build ....detailed battery build ..... and cant wait to guy my 07 kx250 smoker and sell off my kx 450..... electric is the shit
If that's a Surron 2 x hall sensor throttle you'll have the dreaded er114 problem . They're overly sensitive or just poorly made so much so brushing you hand across the throttle body when it's having a tantrum will cause the engine to partially fire up ( plus lose reverse , running on with closed throttle , failure to engage drive ) I'm looking for a replacement , possibly Domino so if someone / you have any suggestions ...
Great insight, thanks! I'll have to do more research on that. If reliability is what you're looking for, The gas bike throttle with the frame mounted actuator is probably the way to go. Sounds like I may end up with one too lol
I'm not sure what the laws are like down there. I will say, I had to import most of my parts from Asia so its gotta be easier to get those at least. You just might have to assemble it upside down.
seems like a cool video, unfortunately I can't hear a single thing audio is too low. I don't want to turn it up because when i get hit with an ad it would be so freakin loud. I liked and subbed hopefully you can release one with louder audio??
Haha thanks for the feedback, that is helpful. I will be looking into a new mic and adjusting the volume levels better. Its dumb you're even getting ads. My channel isn't monetized. Guess they gotta make money any way they can. Thanks for joining!
Nice build tho but your battery is going to be the weak point. But good luck I guess your stuck with them cells unless you have money to buy better ones and maybe sell them or use them for a less powerful build. Keep an eye on temp of them cells plz.
I did a lot of research before starting this build. The continuous ability of the battery is around my peak load. The peak ability is over double. Definitely not my weak point. If I used those cells in a smaller configuration then I could see your point but they wont be pushed anywhere near their limit here.
That things sick! 104mph is wild. I definitely want to do a street build. Its not as much of a thing here in Idaho as it is in Baltimore haha our roads are too crappy. Just subbed!
@@BlacksheepEngineering Ayye I appreciate you my guy! Looking forward to seeing your build too I'm only running the ND96850 rn...this summer ill grab the 1800 and see what happens lol
Please share your experience and the specs of your build. You definitely can make one worse than the Varg. Pretty wild to assume all custom builds are as bad as yours though lol. If weight, ride time, and rideability are not what you think make a bike good, is it reliability? If so, go look at a stark forum. They're pretty dismal on the reliability front too. I'm interested to hear your argument here.
I love your build and also have a converted crf250 with a qs138. I dont like how you have literally rubbished the stark so much, there is no need and it's pretty clear the stark has been an inspiration for your build. Appreciate that stark have an entire team and R&D backing them and have taken years to develop it. It uses top of line components and has been engineered solely to be an electric bike and therefore has no compromises. In comparison, the new model runs 100s4p molicel p50b cells and a motor and gearbox designed for this purpose, whereas you and me are using a cheap chinese motor from aliexpress. Less hating on the stark please. Love the build, particularly your battery, and I think it will be an amazing bike.
@@michaelfila2796 Thanks. Stark is great and I love what they've done for the market. It does seem like I'm bagging on them a lot but its not for the fact that I dont like them. Just want them to do better. The fact that we can compete with (and possibly beat) them using cheap Chinese parts makes me want to push them harder. The fact that they came out with the enduro version tells me they listen to our complaining so in my eyes its worth continuing to complain. I like to receive the same criticism too. It helps us get better. Thanks for pointing out how much its coming off as hate. I'll make sure to set it right moving forward.
I'm a simple man with extra parts. I see an electric dirt bike build, I like before I watch 🙏
This is one of the most supportive communities I've seen. Glad to be apart of it!
With the 7kWh pack, my guess from very similar builds with 4kWh packs at 240lbs is that you will end up with a bike that is over 260lbs, but we are not spandex wearing road bicycle weight weenies! This is dirt bikes and this build looks awesome!! 100
Haha the goal is to stay under 260 so it weighs less than the Varg with more battery than the EX Varg. I think we can make it happen. The battery is built very efficiently with very energy dense 21700 cells.
cant wait to see how the build goes!
Thanks! I'm very excited. Working on the next videos now!
I agree with you 100% on building a better E moto then present manufacturers. I have 2 now one being a Talaria and have an Altis on the way. I have ability to build my own but without the time and tools needed (welder, cutters and drill presses) this can be quite tough for most in my position but I think you have a great build ahead of you and i am going to be tuning in for it! Can’t wait to see it start!
Thank you! Thats a good point, I'd love to follow up with another build that specifically avoids using any of those tools.
Man, you have some confidence in this, love to see where it goes.
Thanks, we'll see if my math is correct here soon
I have a Suzuki 85 that I want to do this to. Can't wait to see how you do it!
Nice! Please let me know when you do, I love hearing about cool builds.
I built a 2007 CR450 using the Electric & Co kit and a 3700 KW battery. Mine weighs 228lbs.
It came out great and I prefer riding it compared to my gas bikes.
I am interested to see how your battery comes together.
Please do a range test video after you complete your build.
👍
Nice! Impressive weight! How much capacity does it have? Definitely will do.
I love this idea... Would love to convert an old bike to electric!
Hopefully by the end of this build you'll start one too!
Good luck mate, can't wait for pt 2. Keep up the great work!
Thank you! Working on it now!
electric bikes (and ebikes) are game changing technologies because the power unit is just so damn simple when compared to ICE. there are also major investments being made into batteries and the power units that we all benefit from. i think the only bit of real innovation that will remain is going to be in the software experience (controllers, phones for hud etc). truly an exciting time for everyone who loves this space. stark is going to have to own the "luxury" segment because surron and 100 small indy companies are going to battle it out for the low/mid market segments which is going to be enough for 90% of people.
I hope to see and be apart of much more battery innovation too. Its exciting to see how quick its gotten so much better. Once we can get the range in line with these new 2 stroke bikes I think our community will grow an incredible amount.
Should put a part list in the description.
Good point, I'm a little scared at this point since I don't want to advertise these parts to anyone before I test them. They "should" be the best options but they could be garbage for all I know without testing. I'll definitely be going into detail on build sheets after I get it finished and know the final build sheet.
Sounds exciting! Best of luck and hope it works out! I'll be keeping an eye on the build and if it works, might even try and replicate it. Just a bit of feedback, please get a decent microphone, the sound isn't great atm, but it is a quick and cheap fix.
Thanks! I hope you do! Thanks for the feedback, I didnt want to hurry and buy all the expensive equipment so feedback on the things that are needed the most is very helpful. I'll research what options are good. How is the volume? Thats something I can adjust separately from the mic.
Can’t wait for the build series. Going to be sick.
I was dreaming about trying to get my hands on some Catl solid state pouches and building a pack from that. But I may still be a few years out.
Can’t wait to see this machine built. It may just make me jump on board and build something similar to your bike in the intern.
Thanks! I would love to try out pouches on a later build too. Sad that its so hard to get ahold of reliable ones right now. I hope you do!
very cool, been hoping someone would do this for a while now. good luck with the build!
Thanks! I'm excited to see how it ends up!
All the concepts offered are valid. Interested in the settings you end up using on the FarDriver. 28s is what the too heavy Zero bike I have runs, but have been using 20 or 22s with EBMX X9000 on my builds which honestly is plenty of power on trails for my skill level. Is there three wires (potentiometer device) built into that lever or two wires for a switch? I've been looking for a three wire brake lever besides the $12 one from the cheap scooters that sells on Amazon that doesn't have the hydraulic system so the feel isn't good but it works for variable amount of regen great. I would use the handle to actuate the caliper as well so it could hold the bike in place at a stop and loading up the bike etc. if it has three wires, but I get it people like their foot brake they are used to; I just never rode dirt bikes before and electric made all this fun accessible for me without the noise, stank, top end rebuilds, plus cheating by always being in the right gear. People can store a bike like you are building in their apartment if need be; so awesome.
I think the one that came with that lever is a 2 wire so I'll probably end up using the port for a pressure transducer. If you do make a setup with regen-over-manual brake on one lever, please let me know how it goes. Very interesting, seems like it would be hard to tune how much the regen comes on before applying the actual rear brake. I like the foot brake set up just for keeping it separated and easy.
Very interested in how you build the battery, thats what im doing with an MX550 right now
That just happens to be what I'm working on right now! Very excited.
Very interesting indeed... i do some singletrack in northwest Montana and near Bonners Ferry Idaho on a Beta 300RR and have ridden a modded Ultra Bee briefly.
I've been contemplating converting a YZ with the Electro & Co. Kit or getting a UB and trying to leave it mostly stock... I'll be watching what you do for sure, thanks for documenting.
I also was contemplating the kit from electro and co but ended up avoiding it for a few reasons like:
1. Too low of voltage to run high watts reliably and efficiently because of the needed amps. (Same reason for not using the EBMX X-9000 controller)
2. The EM-260 controller is not easily tunable, they tune it for what they think everyone wants and hope it works. (I'm too picky)
3. No battery options with enough capacity. Even the battery thats $1500 extra is only 5.7KWH
4. The weight is positioned high and forward which make the bike feel much heavier than it is.
5. For about the price of the base YZ-E kit,(including the price of my donor bike) I'm going to have significantly more range, tunability, quality, efficiency, and power.
I'll dive more into this in later videos.
I am a fan of their upgraded qs138 motors, and I do like them as a company.
Thanks for commenting, I hope to hear what you try out!
gonna subscribe based on the video title alone 🤩🤩
Haha glad to have you along!
Hey good luck on the build i am really looking forward to seeing the build and final product , youre on point with the whole range thing tho thats a major factor , i currently have a talaria mx5 for trail riding and im impressed but would love more range its like the grail . Arctic leopard make a great bike i hope your build will surpass that . Like i say really looking forward to following this along best of luck 👍
Thanks! Yeah I tried a modified sur ron once. Ended up being towed behind a KTM 300 for 3 miles... The Arctic leopards do seem to have the most impressive range of any New bikes. It would be awesome to beat them at range.
F for Bryan, Ditch the square and let this dude build you a big sexy!
I’m in Washington.. it’s a few of us that have Honda 250r electric
Awesome! I'd love to hear more about it!
I totally get what you mean with the Varg’s power, the most powerful bike I’ve ever ridden was a worn out 250 two stroke and that was plenty of power for me so if I built a bike like this I don’t think I’ll need anywhere near 80 horsepower. I would probably use the fardriver 108450 controller (270 line amps) with a custom 30s li-ion battery, which would be 39hp. I would probably use that same BMS that you have.
What charger is that? I’ve been looking for a good one for a while now.
I don’t think the Fardriver controllers can do variable regen, it’s either on or off.
One last thing, those cell continuous current ratings are for a single cell, so they don’t really apply if you cram hundreds of them together. The battery pack will definitely heat up unless you have some kind of cooling fan system that blows cold air through the battery. I recently built a 20s20p pack with 10a continuous discharge 18650s, and I’ve determined that I can’t even do 5a continuous per cell when discharging the pack without the center of the pack reaching over 120 degrees F. I thought I would give you a heads up since you seemed pretty confident that the only thing that might overheat is the motor.
Is the stark varg 80HP, continuous or peak?
@ It’s possible that it’s continuous, to estimate how hard the cells are working we can work backwards from 80hp. To get watts we multiply 80*745.7=59,656 watts. The Varg battery has 100 cells in series which would be 360 volts nominal, so we divide the watts by the voltage to get the current: 59,656/360=166 amps. The Varg has 4 cells in parallel, so divide the current by the number of parallel cells to get the current per cell: 166/4=41.5 amps. The Varg uses 45 amp continuous cells, so that’s 92% of the cell’s continuous discharge. Normally I would say that would definitely not let the whole battery pack be 80hp continuous, but the Varg battery has a good design where the negative end of all the cells are thermally connected to the aluminum shell of the pack that acts like a heatsink, so maybe on a cold day you could do 80hp continuous.
Thanks for the input, I hope you start a build too.
I havent seen that decreased discharge ability from series connections before, I'll definitely have to see if that shows up here. Each cell has a 45 amp peak discharge and 25 amp continuous. I will only be pulling 26-27 max at full tilt which I doubt I'll even get to much. It will be something to test though.
For the regen, I thought I had saw in the specs for this controller that it was variable. I'll definitely check now though. Thanks for bringing that up.
This charger is a modified R4875G1 from EleCharger. I cant say if I'd recommend it or not yet but it was recommended to me by a couple guys on the endless sphere forum. It only goes up to 118v so it couldnt do 30s.
Great video, Looking forward to seeing the end results.. I just subscribed
Thanks! Happy to have you along!
a stark varg competitor can absolutely be built for less however the stark has one advantage and that is that is is running 360v nominal, higher voltage allows a crappy 18650 or 21700s with poor c rating to be less of an issue which also means less sag, slightly better efficiency and a cooler running system over all, 80hp is easily achievable with 20s if you use high c rating lipos but it will never have the same run time
Higher voltage does help for sure. In the months I spent planning this build I found its actually harder to get the wiring and connections solid enough to avoid voltage sag than it is to find good enough cells. I was originally going to use electro and co's 76v system but there was no way to do it without any voltage sag and efficiency is a huge deal on this build. At 96v I still have almost 400Amps to deal with which is more than any connector I could find is rated for.
F for Bryan! 😂
I'd be worried about the regen with battery being at 100%, there is not much room for it since your battery is 117,6V at full charge and the controller can handle only 120V
Agreed. Luckily I can use the BMS to regulate the Regen so it shuts it off when its within a set range of what I tell it is max charge. Since regen is not super effective for actually generating power, I doubt there will be much time without the regen brake.
F for brian!
I have two questions, do you think it's possible to fit in there 28s 15p? You mentioned your currently at 14p. And also you didn't show or mention if it is hot swappable the battery. Curious on that
1.Yes, you could absolutely fit that in this frame. Probably even more than that. I only limited mine where it is because of weight.
2.It is not even a little bit hot swappable lol. I am very concerned with power efficiency and I couldn't find any connectors that could take this level of amperage without voltage drop so the leads come straight out of the battery and bolt onto the controller. I also hate battery boxes that the battery can wiggle in so Im building in bolt-on mounts to the battery case.
@BlacksheepEngineering ok thanks for the clear up, I'll wait for the next video hopefully to see you moving up the battery within the frame to get a better idea. Wish you the best
cant wait for that battery build ....detailed battery build .....
and cant wait to guy my 07 kx250 smoker and sell off my kx 450.....
electric is the shit
Electric is a whole lot of fun. I hope to see you do a build!
If that's a Surron 2 x hall sensor throttle you'll have the dreaded er114 problem .
They're overly sensitive or just poorly made so much so brushing you hand across the throttle body when it's having a tantrum will cause the engine to partially fire up ( plus lose reverse , running on with closed throttle , failure to engage drive )
I'm looking for a replacement , possibly Domino so if someone / you have any suggestions ...
Great insight, thanks! I'll have to do more research on that. If reliability is what you're looking for, The gas bike throttle with the frame mounted actuator is probably the way to go. Sounds like I may end up with one too lol
Subscribed. What state are you in? This is awesome. A lot of expertise involved in this. Ready for pt 2.
I'm in Idaho, sometimes ride in Utah. Thanks for joining!
Any way to do this in australia?
I'm not sure what the laws are like down there. I will say, I had to import most of my parts from Asia so its gotta be easier to get those at least. You just might have to assemble it upside down.
@@BlacksheepEngineering 🤣alr, I'll try.
seems like a cool video, unfortunately I can't hear a single thing audio is too low. I don't want to turn it up because when i get hit with an ad it would be so freakin loud. I liked and subbed hopefully you can release one with louder audio??
Audio is fine for me even without headphones. maybe yours is turned down somewhere
Haha thanks for the feedback, that is helpful. I will be looking into a new mic and adjusting the volume levels better. Its dumb you're even getting ads. My channel isn't monetized. Guess they gotta make money any way they can. Thanks for joining!
@@carsonevans4252 Thanks for the feedback, were the ads still louder than the video on yours? Seems like I need to adjust it to match those better.
my 100 Ah e ride pro ss 1.0 gets a lagit 90 miles range
Thats sweet! 100Ah is a big battery. What voltage?
Nice build tho but your battery is going to be the weak point. But good luck I guess your stuck with them cells unless you have money to buy better ones and maybe sell them or use them for a less powerful build. Keep an eye on temp of them cells plz.
I did a lot of research before starting this build. The continuous ability of the battery is around my peak load. The peak ability is over double. Definitely not my weak point. If I used those cells in a smaller configuration then I could see your point but they wont be pushed anywhere near their limit here.
LETS GOOO!!!! I TELL PEOPLE THIS ALL THE TIME! Good content my guy! I built a 96v 100ah motorcycle myself check it if u have time😎😎
That things sick! 104mph is wild. I definitely want to do a street build. Its not as much of a thing here in Idaho as it is in Baltimore haha our roads are too crappy. Just subbed!
@@BlacksheepEngineering Ayye I appreciate you my guy! Looking forward to seeing your build too I'm only running the ND96850 rn...this summer ill grab the 1800 and see what happens lol
Ya how is about to buy a new bike and then realized it was cheaper to build one
BUILD ONE!!!
nope..done the conversion..its not better than a Stark
Please share your experience and the specs of your build. You definitely can make one worse than the Varg. Pretty wild to assume all custom builds are as bad as yours though lol.
If weight, ride time, and rideability are not what you think make a bike good, is it reliability? If so, go look at a stark forum. They're pretty dismal on the reliability front too.
I'm interested to hear your argument here.
I love your build and also have a converted crf250 with a qs138. I dont like how you have literally rubbished the stark so much, there is no need and it's pretty clear the stark has been an inspiration for your build. Appreciate that stark have an entire team and R&D backing them and have taken years to develop it. It uses top of line components and has been engineered solely to be an electric bike and therefore has no compromises. In comparison, the new model runs 100s4p molicel p50b cells and a motor and gearbox designed for this purpose, whereas you and me are using a cheap chinese motor from aliexpress.
Less hating on the stark please.
Love the build, particularly your battery, and I think it will be an amazing bike.
@@michaelfila2796 Thanks. Stark is great and I love what they've done for the market. It does seem like I'm bagging on them a lot but its not for the fact that I dont like them. Just want them to do better. The fact that we can compete with (and possibly beat) them using cheap Chinese parts makes me want to push them harder. The fact that they came out with the enduro version tells me they listen to our complaining so in my eyes its worth continuing to complain. I like to receive the same criticism too. It helps us get better. Thanks for pointing out how much its coming off as hate. I'll make sure to set it right moving forward.