FreeCAD Simple hinged box for 3D printing. Beginners Part Design Tutorial Linear Pattern for hinge
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 มิ.ย. 2021
- A beginner guide to modelling a simple hinged box in FreeCAD for 3D Printing using basic tools in freeCAD. We learn how to create a whole hinged box to be printed in situ by creating one side of the enclosure with a repeating hinge that is then copied, flipped / rotated and pinned to create the full box ready for slicing and printing. We use freeCAD's part design pad and the thickness tool to hollow out the box. As an alternative, if our thickness dimensions are the same for all the box walls we use the pocket tool inside of the box.
We then move onto the hinge and learn how to model the hinge and repeat it with a linear pattern. We then attach the hinge so when we copy and rotate one side of the box to make the other side the hinges connect together. We then move on to the final part, the pin, which holds the two sides together
#FreeCAD , #CAD , #Python , #3D , #3DPrinting, #CNC
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Only 41k subscribers (at the time of writing)? C'mon guys! This channel needs much more love than that. This is solid gold content. If you don't subscribe, Santa will ghost you for life.
agreed, by far the best tutorials I have found so far. Thanks!
This is not taking anything away from other folks helping other people to learn 3D design, this is the first tutorial that I was able to follow through and I have viewed a bunch. I like the way author is not assuming anything like showing the grid for example, that made a whole lot of difference to me. Thank you very much sir.
Thanks for the feedback, great to hear what you like about the teaching style. I will use that as a guide in my other videos
Wow this tutorial was amazing, I was struggling at times to find my mistakes but the way you describe every step and even the possible mistakes and why they occur make this an even better learning experience for me as a nascent beginner. I love it!
Glad you enjoyed. Its a pretty popular tutorial and I'm going to do some more on the same lines for the future. Great to see your progressing
Thanks--I have been struggling with FreeCad--your video helped a lot.
Fantastic! You make me really believe I can learn FreeCad.
Great videos. Hope you keep going ...
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! I'm getting into 3d design for engineering and chose freecad for that. Your tutorial helped so much.
Great to hear, thank you so much for the comments. I enjoy reading how people are using the videos and why. Good luck on your journey.
Thanks, this was helpful!
Great tutorial. Thanks
You're welcome and thank you so much for the donation.
great tutorial friend, thanks
I did not know the addition of points on an existing extruded sketch yet. Very good to know
Great to hear you enjoyed the video, thanks for the comments.
Nice nice! Very nice! Thank you a lot!!!
No problems, glad your enjoying
Thanks!
Only great. Thank you su much 🙂
looking at 3d printing and this has helped no end well done
Great to hear 👍
Thank you very much
Just come across this video. Bit confused where you say you could print it open or shut. If you print it shut, won't the two halves fuse together ?
Also, if you print it in the orientation shown, what is there to keep the hinge pin floating, at least to one of the halves of the box ? You'd have to print it with the pin vertically, surely, but then you'd have the pin end-cap protuding.
One of the best FreeCad tutorials I have seen and been able to follow. In video you mentioned about different hinges for different uses, would it be possible to show the design of these hinges please. I am really looking at making a strong hinge for a tackle box type box
Glad you found this useful, normal it means making the hinges bigger but I am going to find some of my old tackle boxes from when I used to carp fish and have a look. I see from your picture you do the same. It's that a leather or mirror? Picture is small on phones.
@@MangoJellySolutions Hi thanks for the reply.
It was a mirror carp around 28lb.
I was looking at the Ali Halmidi One more cast rig ready box hinge to make something similar for a basic fishing box, but my FreeCad skills are very basic
Did you 3D print this? there aren't any spaces between the hinges, won't it print as one entire piece, preventing the hinge from moving?
Thanks very easy and clear explanation
Thank you
Great video. Can the hinge be added to a box using thickness (your first approach instead Pocket?) I tried supporting Hinge_Sketch is with PAD(Face3) or Thickness(Face3) and I get "Failed to Validate broken Face" The hinge sketch is full constrained. Puzzled. Using FreeCAD 0.19.3. Thanks.
Ignore found workaround. thanks
hey you're a big help man thank you!! when I try making a pocket in my sketch the sketch layer and pad are not linked so it doesn't allow me to create a pocket. what am I doing wrong?! thanks again
Hi, it sounds like the sketch is not mapped to one of the pad faces. You need to click on the pad face first and then select the create sketch from the part design. If you click on the sketch you have currently created and look in map mode on the data tab in your combo view you will see how it is mapped. If it says something like deactivated then click on the button on the end of the field. A window on the left will be shown where you have a number of text boxes. The top one has a button that you can click so it says selecting. Then you can pick your pad face by clicking on it. Either that or you have a broken geometry in your sketch. Make sure that each geometry on your sketch has no breaks in it I. E. If it is a square then all lines are joined together and don't seperate if you move each of the lines. Hope that helps.
I threw ya some coin. It was 10.50 but that's like 6 pounds. Our funny money sucks lol just a small thanks bro. I used one of your old videos about the a4988 drivers. It helped alot.
Ah thanks for that most appreciated. Ah yes I remember that video as I sneezed half way through and smoked one of the drivers as I was probing and managed to short the driver. I should of left that in as an out take. 😂
@@MangoJellySolutions I let the magic smoke out of one. Luckily I have a bag full of them and more arduinos than electronics store haha when I build my cnc machine I'm going to buy a specialized mainboard with better drivers.
I had to buy a better 3d printer because the tronxy and then the eryone were doa. I've been really into cmos logic lately and building stuff that doesn't rely on a microcontroller. It's fun and gives me a reason to justify owning an oscilloscope lol
@@jstro-hobbytech Iv'e switched now to drv8825 as the a4988 didn't deliver me enough power for my motors. I must admit I have seen a nice increase in build quality. I have had some really rough a4988's. What CNC controller are you using? I have both the uno v4 shield and the v3 shield and I have had some real problems with the v4. Been through 3 of the v4's. They just seem to stop working and plagued with design floors. Have installed the v3 and seems a much nicer board, well to start with everything is wired up correctly!
With the logic stuff have you played with FPGA's at all? Have done a little with them and it's something that I would like to get into.
very nice ;) Hey next, could you model a ball joint and move it in the A2 plus workbench ? curious to learn how to do this
Funny you should say that, a friend of mine wants a simple ball joint for one of his projects. We was talking about it last week and has asked me if I could create him something. I never thought about simulating it in A2 though it be a nice addition. I will give it a go.
Had to have a quick go, yep it is very possible to create one in A2Plus workbench and works pretty well. I will put together a video in the next couple of days. I may do a very basic one first to get you up and running quickly.
@@MangoJellySolutions awesome. I am so glad that i subscribed to your chanel. Awesome
@@guillaumevincent716 Here you go, this will give you a start. Hope you enjoy th-cam.com/video/faR9FHJvWV0/w-d-xo.html
Thanks, great, liked, subscribed etc but why did you have to go to draft around 5:00?
Thanks for the comments, I set the grid size so the grid was large enough to place our object on. The grid gives us an idea of the planes we are napping to when further on in the video we use the draft workbench to move the parts.
Can a FDM 3D printer print that hinge and it actually work? I suspect if I printed it with my printer then it would all fuse together and you'd not actually be able to open it. Perhaps it depends upon the quality of the printer.
Most of my designs have been fairly static or I've used screws as hinges (typically to allow movement then fix the position). If I was doing that I'd probably buy a metal pin to go through and use that instead, but I'd be interested to hear your experience and whether that can be 3D printed as a working joint.
I was thinking the same thing. Is it possible to print the pin?
@@KurtSchwind I don't know if the pin wont fuse to the hinge. Would be great if someone tried to print it.
I haven't tried this myself, but if there is a gap between the pin and the hinge it will print disconnected and should work fine. But, there will be another problem: assuming the side of the box is on the print bed, the caps on the pin will be below the edge of the box and the print will rest on the face of the caps, leaving the entire box unsupported! This will cause the print to fail.
Hello and thanks for all you do! I'm following along with your tutorial, trying to add hinges to my own project. I'm adding hinges to the right side view of my project and the 2d view shadowing is in the way.. any idea how to disable this?
Thanks for your comments, sorry for late reply I am trying to get through a large number of comments on my channel, are you in the sketcher? I'm not sure what you mean by 2d view shadowing. I think you may need to use the section view tool to cut through the view. Do you have a screen shot of what you are seeing?
@@MangoJellySolutions no worries, really appreciate what you do. So in sketch mode when you are looking at the squared up side of a part that has been padded, it has a shadow casted off to the right side showing that it's a 2d part.. it's just hard to sketch over that shadow and I was wondering if it could be turned off. No super big deal.
@@upnorthFPVandEUC Ahh you on LinkStage3? If so on the top menu, view, draw style selected flat lines. :)
@@MangoJellySolutions Perfect thanks! I was crawling all through the preferences tab thinking it would be in there.. so here's my next issue. I'm following along with you but my body is not square so I can't just clone and flip. Mirroring doesn't work either because the top and bottom hinges won't mesh up. What would be your preferred way to get the top piece finished with hinges in correct position in my situation?
@@upnorthFPVandEUC there are a number of ways, you can create the bottom and the lid as two separate parts and for the hinges shape binders. I am sure I have a example somewhere. Once I am back home in a couple of days I will have a look.
Your original idea was to print the box on it's side. As the hinge pin has protruding heads on it then surely this is not ideal? You could reduce the hinge widths at the sides and then the pin heads would be flush with the sides making printing less of a problem.
hello, my rectangle on sketch appeared at the bottom.. how do you make it appear on the top?
It sounds like you haven't selected a face before hitting the create sketch button. That will align the sketch to the face.
You wouldn't need that overlap if you had reversed the pad from the start.
how do we create an STL from this I can select each body seperately but if I select and control each body then I get the box sealed??
You can export out the individual parts by selecting the bodies one by one and exporting them. If you select multiple parts and export then they export as one but they are compounded together. Which is the same as I did with the print in place assembly video I belive. Its a pretty old video which I would like to revisit using assembly workbenches and parametric spreadsheets.
Late post. Great video as always from MangoJelly. But as few mentioned, there will be problems with 3D printing this. The hinges will fuse together and the pin will float in the air (depending orientation of print) and the pin being so thin it will be weak.
Suggestion for 3D printers would be to dump the pin, use a piano or brazing wire (or even PETG or stronger piece of filament) and glue it in on one hinge only. Adjust the hole to correct diameter of wire + a gap. Make the hinge length slightly smaller so there is no binding or fusing.
Also you only need to design one side and duplicate it in your slicer. But this is a Tutorial, so nothing wrong the whole design (even with a pin). I still learned how to design a hinge.
pls add the cad file in the description
i think this is a great tutorial however this is not optimized at all for 3d printing i would rotate the lid of the box 180 and use shift to snap do it would be flat on the print bed
is it possible to make this parametric?
Yes it should be possible, this is another one that I really need to revisit.
@@MangoJellySolutions it would be very usefull I can para the box but not sure how to link with the hinge in relation to the box?? so a video would be great, possible also incorporate a clip to hold closed like two interlocks on the top into two slots in the bottom??
Sounds like a job for spreadsheet and either a link action or assembly workbench. Can see this being a pretty useful tutorial
@@MangoJellySolutions I think it would be most useful 🙂
What are DoF's??? in a sketch please
Degree of freedom. This relates to how constrained down your sketch is. Zero degrees of freedom means the sketch is fully constrained. A single line without any constraints has 4 DOF's; add a horizontal constraint you are down to 3, constrain the length your down to two, point on line constraint on horizontal axis, down to 1. point on point constraint to point of origin then 0 or fully constrained.
whyd you turn from front to right mid way into making the first hinge ?
smh