The coverage is amazing! I expected it to take a lot longer for the fog to make it to the end of the tube. My eyes flew open wide at how quickly it happened!
Impressive demonstration. This actually looks like it works better than using ice. I've been considering converting to using a mister, you're video has me sold. Thanks for all your effort and experimentation! It'll save me a lot of time
I absolutely does work better. Been using this method for the past 3 years. The mister actually warms the water up inside. Last year I dumped Ice in the tub to help counter made it much thicker and heavier. Ice melts pretty quickly though. Oak Lane didn’t discover this process. But, he definitely has a good version of the setup.
Awesome job!!!...that's gonna look even better in colder weather once it comes around. I don't have a huge yard, but something like this will definitely help the atmosphere of any graveyard.
Thank you so much for the secret, water your lawn. LOL. Just bought a fog machine and thank god I didn't spend the extra money to get a fog chiller when I can buy an ultrasonic that lasts longer and place in a Rigid $40 lockable tool box and pump out some low lying fog.
Too bad that haze effect doesn't extend more than a few inches from the tube. The only time I've seen the mister create a significant amount of effect was one night when it rained all day then got dead calm after dark. Even then the effect was limited to about 6-8ft above and in front of the pipe.
Observation: by putting a blower directly in the line, you are A) beating vapors back into droplets. B) introducing a LOT of moisture to an electrical motor. Solution: use a clean out junction. The straight connects between your box and discharge hose, and the bend is where you add the fan. This both prevents the problems above, and introduces unrestricted cool air. Conversely, you can place the junction and fan at the end of the pipe and pull the fog, but you lose the cool air boost. Keep up the good work!
A clean out or wye fitting won't work unless you add an inner pipe to create a venturi that funnels the incoming air from the blower past the opening that connects to the chiller. Without it you will only get backdrafting into your chiller that will push all of your fog right back out of the inlet no matter how or where you hook it up. I'm currently in the process of tinkering with such a setup and learning a lot about how it works and what it's limitations are. Putting the blower at the end of the fog tube will negate all of the holes along the way and you will only get fog coming from the end of the tube where the blower is pulling it to. So far the best way is having the blower inline and running it slow. using a 12v blower reduces the risk of mixing electricity and water (but does not eliminate it). The main issue has been the destruction of every blower caused by the moisture once it gets stored for the season.
Really impressive! I know the intent is NOT to use any ice but would chilling the water have any measurable effect on the fog being output? Just goes to show how COMBINING technologies can produce an award-winning effect! Congrats! Thanks for sharing.
Chilling the water or adding ice to it will reduce the mister's output and could damage the heads. - th-cam.com/video/C8D-g9EPXXY/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=TheHouseofHydro
Any 10 head mister and a marine bilge blower will work. You have to put a speed control on the blower to slow it way down. - th-cam.com/video/od-nG93ywDA/w-d-xo.html
I was looking at the 4” flanges but the pipe side doesn’t match up (too small) for the 4” pipes. How did you handler he transition? Also, where did you source the 3” flex pipe?
I found the flex hose at work in a pile of discarded drain pipe they used to clear the blockages when one of our waste pits overflowed. The company that does the work discards to pipe after using it because there is so much trash and paper pulp accumulated inside they can not use it again. Took me a while to get it all cleared out so I could use it. Not really sure where to source it from elsewhere. I was really lucky to find so much of it. The flange I used was drain flange, which is slightly different than pvc in that it is thinner than pvc so that makes the outer diameter is smaller. That's why I used the rubber coupling between the 4" flange and the 3" drain line. The rubber reducer has enough give to make up for the difference in the outer diameter of the flange and the blower slips right over it on the 3" side. (See 0:51 in the video to get a closer look at the rubber reducing fitting)
Out of curiosity, how was the decision on the hole size and spacing made? I literally just ran 3" pipe through my front yard last night and haven't yet drilled the holes. I was thinking to start with 18" and 1/2" holes, but this video was having me question this choice.
Based on my experience with using 6" pipe where my hole spacing was 12", I did some calculations and measured the flow algorithms, then consulted a pie chart and referenced Guomack's Guidebook on Laminar Flow, then decided to just take a stab in the dark on my 3" tube and drill some 1" holes spaced at whatever I felt like, which was 9" spacing with the first few feet at 18" spacing. lol. I actually DID put some thought into those first few 18" spaced holes though. I noted that with my previous tube a lot of the fog was being pushed out in the first few feet. Hence the wider spacing in the first few feet of the new hose.
Actually that is a GREAT question, and YES it does seem to create more condensation inside the tubing or piping as well as on outside surfaces it touches, mainly closest to where it exits the piping. If you think about it, it's logical because we are adding a ton of moisture to the fog. You have to really watch this setup to prevent the buildup from filling your tubing or piping. NO LOW SPOTS! I run mine slightly downhill from the box and I added small 1/8in holes to the underside of my fog tube to allow any buildup of moisture to drain. I would not recommend this setup for indoor use because of the wetness of it.
SO I have been trying to use fluorescent dye pellets, used for testing for leaks, to make fog juice glow in black light but no go. So now I'm suspecting that there's a possibility of making the fog glow when combining the pellets with the water...???
The only thing that will do is ruin the heads on the ultrasonic mister. Same for adding it to fog juice. In a fog machine any additives will burn off and leave a residue on the injector that will eventually clog it. In a mister it will coat the ceramic heads and eventually gook them up enough to not function. The ONLY way to make colored fog is to use lighting to make it appear to glow whatever color you want it to be. My ambient lights are green, so my fog appears green when it's under them. You can make colored SMOKE easily by burning whatever chemical creates the color you want, but real smoke is nasty stuff and colored smoke is doubly so. Experiment with lighting from underneath the fog with LED strips. Many cool effects can be created like realistic flames or toxic green gas. Look at how Froggy's Fog's A1 Thanos Fog Blaster creates glowing fog effects for inspiration.
It is a 12v marine bilge blower. They can be found on Amazon. You will need a 3v-12v control to slow it down. You will probably need a different style of plug on the speed control since you are in the UK amzn.to/3Y6DqIX amzn.to/3Y54KHR
I get this comment over and over since I first made this thing. Everyone is so entrenched in the old style ice chillers they are convinced nothing else will work. The whole point of this is to eliminate having to buy and manage ice and the mess that comes with it. Instant low fog at the flip of a switch. It 100% works just as well, if not better and for a MUCH longer time than using the old style ice chillers, no matter what type or how big. I've yet to hear back from anyone using an ultrasonic chiller in colder weather, but since it works by adding moisture to the fog instead of cooling it, I suspect the result will be the same no matter the temperature - low fog. (Except that in really cold weather the water in the box could freeze). As of this date I have yet to see anyone get an even miniscule improvement by keeping ice in the mix despite there being several TH-cam videos of people doing it. In my opinion continuing to use ice with an ultrasonic chiller is a waste of time and money. Wetting the grass helps propagate the fog across a yard, but that's about the only help it needs. If you make an ultrasonic chiller and it does not create super low fog, you need to tweak things because something is not right. Box might be too small, blower might be running to high, or fog machine is too weak.
I have 8 ADJ low lying foggers that need ice. They are great, however having so many, it's a pain. What motor and ultrasonic mister did you purchase? Can you link? I need this in my life!
Adding ice will greatly reduce the mister's ability to create mist. It has an optimum operating temperature range and going below that causes it to not work as well. The whole point of this is to get away from using ice and by adding ice you will just be creating a big, inefficient ice chiller and probably damage a $100 mister head. Ultrasonic chillers needs no additional help. They already work far better than any home made ice chiller ever made.
Because the water mist from the ultrasonic mister itself does not spread very far or become very dense. The fog machine fog is dense and spreads far, but does not stay low to the ground. If you combine the two the fog that comes out is both thick and dense and spreads far without rising into the air. It's all about using the water vapor from the ultrasonic mister to make the glycerin fog from the fog machine "wetter" so that it hangs lower to the ground to create the low lying "swampy" fog effect.
Oh I see. I thought the whole idea of the ultrasonic was to replace the fog machine. So really, it just replaces ice? What kind of fog machine is that? Does it work on a timer, or continuous?
Yes it just replaces the ice. With this setup all you have to do it turn it on and low fog will keep coming out for as long as there is water and fog fluid in it. Depending on the water tank and fogger size, that could be a very long time. Mine would probably take 8 or more hours to run out of water and fog fluid. With ice chillers the heat from the fog melts the ice pretty quickly and it has to be replaced every so often. Also as the ice melts, the low lying effect will diminish. The only advantage to the ice chillers is that they are cheap and easy to make. My fog machine is a Froggy's Fog Titan 1200 machine. I needed a large fog machine and large ultrasonic water box because of the long tube and large area I want to cover. Smaller ultrasonic setups can be made with smaller fog machines, but it won't produce the same volume of fog a big setup will. I run my fog machine with an attached timer set to give a full blast of fog for 10 seconds, every 120 seconds. This keeps a nearly continuous flow of fog coming out of the tube.
@OakLaneCemetery , wow cool! I have an older "The Fog Machine" that doesn't even list the watts. So I have no idea what size it is, but guessing around 400. The problem I have been having with it is that it takes so long to heat up the juice between producing fog. You have to wait til the light turns green before pressing the button. It seems like 5 minutes between. By that time, all the fog on the ground is gone. There is a timer remote that can be bought, that I was considering purchasing, but still the heating time between is still the issue. I have a very small area, and the 400 works fine when it is fogging, but like I said, the heating time in between ruins the effect by the fog dissipating. I assume the 1200 heats faster in order to work every 120 seconds?
Yea, most fog machines are pretty useless without a timer. All of them have an initial heat up time to get the element up to temperature and each time the fog cycles through the element, it cools some. Once it gets below operating temp the machine pauses to let it heat up again. Trying to run one continuously by holding down the button until the fog stops will cause this to happen faster. With a timer, you can set it to make shorter bursts that don't cool the element as much, so the reheat time in between can be much lower. I keep the little 400w fogger I use in the cauldron creep set to do a 3 second burst once a minute and it will do about 10 or 15 cycles before it needs to stop and reheat. There are pro machines out there that can run nonstop, but they cost 1000s of dollars. If you get a timer be sure it is compatible with your machine. There are a bunch of different types, but most small cheap machines use the same type of timer.
Just found your channel and subbed. Great builds! A question on using a rolling toolbox. I understand why you moved away from the tote. I was wondering if you had considered or tried using rolling coolers/ice chests. There seem to be quite a few of them for sale on used marketplaces. Should be sturdy enough not to flex and I believe they’re usually airtight. Thanks for sharing your experiences - great stuff!
It's shown at 2:33 in this video. I lucked out and it fit perfectly inside the bilge blower I used. th-cam.com/video/od-nG93ywDA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=PX4i52eZOkzZgp9n&t=154
I'm sure there is something somewhere that would fit outside instead of inside, I just used what I had lying around. It was originally used to fit a piece of flexible vacuum hose that connected the chiller to a 6" tube. I tend to use a lot of parts I have lying around in my builds to save a few bucks.
I'm working on mine now and went with the 3-inch to 3-inch rubber and clamps tighten down over the blower. Just in case anyone else is building fog chiller
For the PVC pipe inlet and outlets, how are you keeping them firmly attached to the box? Do you just slide them in and the resistance between the pipe and box is good enough, as long as the hole is the about the same size as the PVC pipe diameter?
I glued a short piece (about an inch sticking out) of pipe inside the fitting then glued a slice of straight connector (again about an inch) on the inside of the box to hold them in place. I didnt want a long fitting sticking out inside. Ive seen others use drain flanges to attach theirs.
@@OakLaneCemetery I live in Florida so it rarely gets cold enough for the fog to lay low to the ground. Thank you for all of your info and guidance. My laser swamp was a big hit last year because of the fogger
Wow this is amazing, thanks for the video. I am going to try to replicate this build to get the same low lying fog. Question, what type of fog juice are you using?
Probably not, I've done it both ways and don't see a difference. Either way, be prepared for moisture to accumulate inside the blower and hoses. I drilled a little hole on the underside of my blower to let it drip out and a series of holes in the underside of the fog tube to do the same. Try to keep the outlet hose either sloped downhill, or humped in the middle to minimize any buildup there.
About 3 days before I have to top it off. It consumes about an inch and a half to 2 inches of what's in the tank during a 4-6 hour run. I do a full water change every 3 days anyways just to ensure the water does not start to get funky and stagnant. Don't want to be atomizing toxic water and wafting it all over people. That's how Legionnaires' disease happens. Keep your water fresh.
One thing I couldn't find in the parts list (on any of the 3 fog chiller videos) is the rubber coupler you are using? Is it a straight 3" coupler that connects your bilge to the outlet pipe or does it have a step down? Its hard to tell with only getting a quick glimpse of it in the video. Any info you have would be amazing!
It was a 3" to 2" step down rubber coupling. A 3" hose or pipe, or the bilge blower should fit snugly OVER the 2" side instead of in it. There is a clear shot of it at 2:34 in the rebuild video here - th-cam.com/video/od-nG93ywDA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=-Afm5IF0Cey-fjKJ&t=154
@OakLaneCemetery thanks! I thought that piece must have gone away with the removal of the flex tubing removal with the latest build. Any reason you don't have the bilge going inside of a standard straight 3" rubber coupling? Appreciate it!
The original vacuum hose I used would not go inside a 3" straight coupling and if it did I wouldn't have been able to seal it airtight because of the wire that was in it. I took it to Lowes and test fitted things until I found the 2" to 3" rubber coupling that fit perfectly inside the vacuum tube instead of around it. Didn't even need a clamp it was such a good fit. With the new fog tube I've eliminated the short piece of vacuum tube but by happy coincidence that same rubber adaptor also perfectly fits the bilge blower the same way so there was no need to change it.
I just finished building the ultrasonic fog box with a mobile job box - thank you for sharing this! Fast question: have you tried icing the water in the box? Possibly even using dry ice? It might damage the ultrasonic mister, but I wonder if cooling the water would help the fog density. I know from past experience the ultrasonic mister tends to warm up the water quite a bit after an hour or so.
I actually to two 1 gallon iced tea containers, filled them with water and stuck them in the freezer. Then when it was time to use them, I put both containers close to the outlet for the fog. Seemed to work better than just the ultrasonic mister. Just my opinion. I was also using a large cooler instead of what he was using. I don’t think the 2 gallon jugs cooled the water down that much. But of course, even a slight breeze is our worst enemy.
@@OakLaneCemetery Thank you! Btw, I have a few gallons of Freezin Fog from Froggy's that I was going to use, but it's meant to be used with a chiller. Think I should switch to Swamp Juice? Not sure if that matters at all.
The only difference between "freezin" fog juice or "low lying" fog juice and regular is proportion of glycerin it contains. All fog juice is just made from glycerin and water. Cheap stuff is like 5-10% glycerin, normal "good stuff" is probably 15-20% and low lying is likely 20-30% glycerin. More glycerin makes thicker clouds of fog, but over around 30% and it starts to gunk up your machine. It does not matter whether you use a chiller or not. The juice will still work either way, it just won't be low lying without a chiller. I order food grade pure glycerin from Amazon and mix it 20% with distilled water to make my own fog juice. Works great and I can get 5 gallons of juice out of a gallon of glycerin for what one gallon of pre made juice costs.
It's whatever size fits whatever fitting you want to use. Don't take my tutorials to be the exact right way to do it. Think of them as more of a guide to help you to make your own. Improvements to this rig are constantly being made by people. Everyone tends to use slightly different fittings, piping and other parts depending on how big they make their setup so I can't say for sure that exactly what I used will fit what you used. What I can say is don't go under 3" or over 4" for the pipe, fittings and hose. That seems to be the sweet spot. Mine works GREAT, but is admittedly a bit haphazard and frankensteined together because I've made so many changes and alterations over the past couple of years.
Hi again. So my brother did this and he said it kept it low well for a good 20min or so, but then the fignstarted to rise. He openeed the chiller and the water was considerably hotter which is why it probably started to rise. How do you mitigate this? Do you add ice to your water every hour or so? How do you counter the warming of the water? We are in Michigan. Thanks!!
How big is his water box and how deep is the water? I have never had mine be able to do more than slightly warm the water. Icing the water is counterproductive and will reduce the output of the mister. It should run fine until water temps reach about 140, which is pretty damn hot. Things that have stopped my mister from working or made it work intermittently were not purging air from the floats, which cased it to float just a tiny bit too high and keep turning off and on, and having the water level go down to the point that the cord to the mister lifted it out of the water enough to stop working. I've never had the water get hot enough to cut off the mister! It sounds like his box is too small, or his water is not deep enough.
Also - even a TINY bit of wind will screw up any low fog. Sometimes you can't even feel the breeze but the fog is ruined. I watch my torches for indications on what the air is doing. Flames straight up and calm - awesome fog! Flames leaning or flapping means there IS a breeze, even if I can't feel it so I know that if my fog isn't doing right, that is likely the issue. As long as the mister is running when he opens the lid to check it SHOULD be making low fog if wind conditions are right. The only other factor I can think of that might kill the effect is having the blower too high. If it's too high it will suck all of the mist out of the box before it can mix with incoming fog. You want it really low so it's just barely pulling mist out of the box.
@@OakLaneCemetery he doesn't have a blower, sorry didn't mention that. I think he built his from scratch using a mister. He's never seen your video until I showed him yours. Let me get more info. Thanks!!
Oh, and one more thing I thought of - make sure the fogger IS NOT JAMMED RIGHT AGAINST THE INLET PIPE! Doing so will cause the fog to not be able to mix with cooler outside air and fully expand. You will have weaker fog and a lot of the fog juice will not even vaporize. It will just squirt out as a hot liquid, which might eventually cause what you are describing. (though it would take a hell of a lot of it!) Pull it back 2 or 3 inches so air can get in there and mix. You will loose zero fog if your setup is right because the bilge blower will gently draw it in and keep it from escaping.
This looks perfect! Will you be doing a more detailed tutorial step by step? I'd love to know more about the fogger you used, juice, and interior cooler set up.
There is a list in the description for the rebuild of the Ultrasonic Chiller. It's a couple of years old so the links may be broken now. th-cam.com/video/od-nG93ywDA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=cVwrV4w7DtvPyVab
It looks like you have some sort of lock collar on the inside of your outlet pipe. Is that just a piece of 3” pipe that’s been cut and stretched? I’m curious how you secured the 3” pipe for the inlet and outlet to the chest. I’d be nervous using only silicone. And I noticed that collar, so wanted to ask. Thanks!
Yes! I did use rings cut from pvc pipe to make fittings that would sandwich the toolbox between the 2 sides. I cut them from an old, damaged elbow fitting I had lying around. A straight connector would work just as well, probably better since it's made to fit. . One of the small details I overlooked when I made this tutorial.
Yes, the coupling would go inside to secure the pipe from pulling out. You want the inner pipe to be short enough that the coupling fits tight against the tote or toolbox on the inside so that it makes a secure fit with no wiggle room. You will still need to seal around the edges of the hole inside and out to ensure there is no fog leakage. It takes a surprisingly small gap to let fog leak out. Like I said, I used pieces cut off of an old elbow fitting to secure the inside of my pipes, but a coupling would work the same.
For the side it will depend on the type of discharge hose you connect. You might need just a straight coupling, or you might need a step up or down fitting. On top you will just need the elbow.
There's a material list on one of his other videos. However, even with the item number (1407437), I couldn't find it. th-cam.com/video/od-nG93ywDA/w-d-xo.html
Making this will be my last project for this year and I'm having a heck of a time finding 3" drain pipe. It seems like everything is 4", could that be a local thing?
Look a vacuum hose instead. Apparently the tube I found is some kind of heavy duty stuff. 3" pvc pipe would work the same as well, but just wouldn't be flexible, but depending on how you are using it, flexibility might not be needed. PVC would have the advantage of being able to use shorter lengths connected by straight fittings to create whatever length you desire, then break down for storage. Cheap dryer vent hose or vacuum hose can be used to connect pvc to the mist box and blower. OR just go with 4" drain. I was using 6" before just fine.
Does not work. Pushing the air get the fan out of the moisture, but it will create fog leaks everywhere. Drill a small hole in the blower right under the fan. This will let the water out before it builds up so much. I had to do a series of small holes in the bottom of my fog tube as well. It was filling with water.
@@OakLaneCemetery that worked great, final set up tonight…a laser went out for my swap, it still looks great! Thank you for all the work and testing you do!!! Where can a send you a vid of it?
A less expensive machine can be used, but you might have to downsize the water chamber from what mine is. I'm covering my entire yard with just one fog machine and one distribution tube so I need a machine with high output. For a smaller area a smaller machine and box can be used. I would still use the big 10 head mister though to ensure there is enough moisture to blend with the fog.
This is not just water fog alone. It's a mix of glycerin fog and water fog. I'm using a marine bilge blower to move the fog down the tube. I use a speed control to slow the blower way down.
First of all, thanks for the great videos! Very inspiring! One question about the Ultrasonic Fogger floats, do you think a guy could make his own out of pink styrofoam? On a tight budget and need to save some money to make this build happen. Thanks
Either that or pool noodles as long as they hold the mister at the proper level. Keep an eye out, I've seen a few misters that come with a float that only cost a few more bucks than one without.
Wish I could, but I lucked out and found the piece I have in a trash pile. The original 3in tube I was using to connect the box and the old 6in fog tube was vaccum hose. Maybe start there in your search.
@@OakLaneCemetery Thanks so much. I was actually able to find some. A bit pricey but the only option I found was 100ft for $100. I hope it fits nicely over the 3in blower motor exhaust
Just got my mister delivered and other components today. Question: water consumption for the mister, have you had any testing on how long it last before you have to fill up your tote backup? Built a double 5 gallon chiller last year and looking forward to not having to deal with lbs of ice. Thx a bunch for posting
Mine seems to lose about an inch of water a night (4 hour run). I have to top it off around every 3rd night. When I top it off I usually go ahead and dump it out and refill it fully so that my water does not start to get funky. Don't want to be blasting everyone with funky vapor that could make someone sick. Keep it fresh and clean.
@@OakLaneCemetery thanks so much for the reply and information. On a side-note when researching the misters some stated they could handle adding water-soluble pigments. I'm going to do some testing to see if it will mix with the fog . I'll let you know the results on this thread. That is the other 'fog holy Grail' to see if you can get it colored.
One more question… what do you have the output set to on your timer remote? I’m finding that any more than the lowest setting creates too much pressure in the chest and drain pipe.
Yes, I have mine set very low. You want it to be just barely pulling the mist out of the chest. If you were to have it set higher it would empty the chest of mist and there would be nothing in there for the fog to mix with. Don't worry, the fog machine blast will push everything down the tube and there will still be enough of a negative pressure to stop or slow any small fog leaks.
I set my Titan 1200 for 10 seconds every 2 minutes. This may or may not be right for you because of differences in how your setup is built. Unless you have exactly the same parts I do and exactly the same diameter and length fog tube as mine (which is highly doubtful) you will need to experiment and adjust your timing accordingly. I sat and watched mine run and got a rough estimate of how long fog would continue to flow from the fog tube between blasts. Then I set my fogger to about 3/4 of that estimate so that I would get an almost continuous flow. Start with a long gap between fog blasts and reduce the time until you are happy with the effect.
@@OakLaneCemetery Interesting. I’m assuming your timer remote doesn’t have a dedicated output dial, then. In addition to “Interval” and “Duration” dials, mine also has a dial named “Output” that controls the strength of the fog blast.
@@OakLaneCemetery yea I have a whole saw and it’s pretty small cooler, like a standard cooler. The hole saw bit I have is 2 1/4 and then I have a 3 1/8 so I figured I’d try the 2 inch first and see if it works 😬
@@OakLaneCemetery yea I have a whole saw and it’s pretty small cooler, like a standard cooler. The hole saw bit I have is 2 1/4 and then I have a 3 1/8 so I figured I’d try the 2 inch first and see if it works 😬
I love the upgraded fog tube! I am actually upgrading our fog solution to be exactly like yours. Got the mister and marine pump last week and already have the tube. I was happy to see you move to the smaller tube as that is what I was going to try...thanks for proving it out for me lol. I found a cheap float valve and am going to add a garden hose adapter to it so the water will continue to remain full. Do you have any issues with heat inside the sealed box? Thanks for making it easy for me to make!
@@OakLaneCemetery Will do! Thanks. Last question, did you see a big difference when you moved the pump to sealed toolbox vs having it farther away (as shown in previous version)? Thanks again!
@@OakLaneCemetery my bad. I'm talking about the marine pump/fan. In an earlier version I believe you had it positioned at end of 6" outlet tube/pipe. Now you have it right at the outlet of the sealed toolbox before tube. Wondering if you saw better output flow. Thanks
Ah! No, no real difference other than with it positioned at the top there is less likelihood that condensation will settle inside of it. It was just simpler to just put it up top between the new tube and the box because the tube was long enough to go across the house and still room to go around the corner to the fogger. Less is usually better with any type of connection. Less parts = less to fail. Condensation buildup is a HUGE issue with this ultrasonic setup. All of that water vapor coats everything it touches and starts to collect and the next thing you know you have gallons of water settled in the piping. With the 6" drain it was not an issue because if it did build up a few inches in the bottom there was still plenty of room for the fog to flow through. I'm going to put a series of small drain holes in the underside of the new 3" tube to ensure it does not collect.
The low effect comes from the chiller not the fog. There is no fog juice that will give you low fog without a chiller of some sort. Making it myself saves a ton of money. I can make 5 gallons of fog juice from a single gallon of glycerin and 5 gallons of distilled water.
i was going to do that last year and then make the setup this year from an idea i got from the more professional rigs. i decided to make a trash can chiller to save a little bit of money last year instead. seeing this video reminded me of doing this for this year. but apparently everyone is doing this now so the price of the misters have shot up significantly over last year. they're even labeled on amazon as use for Halloween and with fog machines. 🙄
Search around. 2 weeks ago I was able to find a couple of 10 heads on Amazon that came with a weatherproof power supply and floats for around $120, which was about in line with what I paid when I made mine almost 3 years ago. Some sellers have caught on to the seasonal demand, but not all of them. Watch Ebay too.
That's not what the fan is there for. Without it the fog will only move from the box when the fogger is pushing it. The fan is on a very low setting that creates a gentle continuous flow of fog out of the box between blasts. When the fogger kicks on it pretty much pushes right past the little blower anyways.
That looks amazing but I'd bet that you do not need the ultrasonic bit in place. By the time it's reaching the first hole, it's below ambient PS, thank the good lord for the MUTE button. Kill EDM
It absolutely does not work without the mister. No matter the length of pipe is still mostly goes airborne within a few feet. With the mister it crosses the entire yard and still stays right on the ground.
@@OakLaneCemeteryWill give it a shot. Just finished setting up a cooler/dry ice setup but will compare in coming days. Just need the weather to cooperate.
Yep. If it's even a little bit windy, I don't run it. Save the fog juice for better conditions. October where I am is pretty calm weather wise so I'm foutunate to get a lot of no wind nights.
You are definitely my hero for having solved the fog chilling problem (at least as much as it can be solved).
Added black cat for additional creepiness.
What a great dog machine set up you have designed! Thank you!
The coverage is amazing! I expected it to take a lot longer for the fog to make it to the end of the tube. My eyes flew open wide at how quickly it happened!
Didn't happen that way with the old 6 inch fog tube!
Impressive demonstration. This actually looks like it works better than using ice. I've been considering converting to using a mister, you're video has me sold. Thanks for all your effort and experimentation! It'll save me a lot of time
I absolutely does work better. Been using this method for the past 3 years. The mister actually warms the water up inside. Last year I dumped Ice in the tub to help counter made it much thicker and heavier. Ice melts pretty quickly though.
Oak Lane didn’t discover this process. But, he definitely has a good version of the setup.
Wow! That's impressive! Can't wait to see it in October with all of your fantastic upgrades this year. Thank you for sharing!
Awesome job!!!...that's gonna look even better in colder weather once it comes around. I don't have a huge yard, but something like this will definitely help the atmosphere of any graveyard.
Now that’s is a blanket of fog!! Amazing, I’m going to start getting my chiller ready tomorrow, thanks for the update 👏🏻
Thank you so much for the secret, water your lawn. LOL. Just bought a fog machine and thank god I didn't spend the extra money to get a fog chiller when I can buy an ultrasonic that lasts longer and place in a Rigid $40 lockable tool box and pump out some low lying fog.
The flex tube is the way to go. Even the mister running alone gives you a really nice haze effect. Very cool
Too bad that haze effect doesn't extend more than a few inches from the tube. The only time I've seen the mister create a significant amount of effect was one night when it rained all day then got dead calm after dark. Even then the effect was limited to about 6-8ft above and in front of the pipe.
@@OakLaneCemetery maybe if Halloween is a cool night it should let everything hang around longer. With no winds!
That's perfect. I know what I'll be building on vacation this upcoming week.
Finally, I have some inspiration to get my workshop cleaned up and ready to do something!
This is awesome! Thanks for the update! I am so far behind on this year's Halloween.... Thanks for Sharing!
Wow that's a great idea to use ultrasonic mist. So much simpler than needing to refill ice!
I’ve seen so many setups and I think this is the one I’m gonna try! You did an amazing job!!
Put one at each end of your dispersing tube bet taht would get thicker deeper coverage sweet video pretty cool idea sir
Great job. This is top on my list to build when we move to our next house next year.
Heck yeah man I’ll be building my 2 fog boxes this weekend and putting videos out hopefully I’ll master it from your videos!
Observation: by putting a blower directly in the line, you are A) beating vapors back into droplets. B) introducing a LOT of moisture to an electrical motor. Solution: use a clean out junction. The straight connects between your box and discharge hose, and the bend is where you add the fan. This both prevents the problems above, and introduces unrestricted cool air. Conversely, you can place the junction and fan at the end of the pipe and pull the fog, but you lose the cool air boost. Keep up the good work!
A clean out or wye fitting won't work unless you add an inner pipe to create a venturi that funnels the incoming air from the blower past the opening that connects to the chiller. Without it you will only get backdrafting into your chiller that will push all of your fog right back out of the inlet no matter how or where you hook it up. I'm currently in the process of tinkering with such a setup and learning a lot about how it works and what it's limitations are. Putting the blower at the end of the fog tube will negate all of the holes along the way and you will only get fog coming from the end of the tube where the blower is pulling it to. So far the best way is having the blower inline and running it slow. using a 12v blower reduces the risk of mixing electricity and water (but does not eliminate it). The main issue has been the destruction of every blower caused by the moisture once it gets stored for the season.
That was def worth a few bucks
Thanks! Much appreciated! And my first ever super thanks! :)
Awesome effect! Thank you for sharing!
I'm signing you up for Shark Tank 😉🦈
"Haunt Tank"
@@OakLaneCemetery exactly! 👻🎃💀🕷️
This is so awesome I want one so bad!!
i made almoust the same , but i put also 3 frozen waterbottles in there , works reel good :)
Really impressive! I know the intent is NOT to use any ice but would chilling the water have any measurable effect on the fog being output? Just goes to show how COMBINING technologies can produce an award-winning effect! Congrats! Thanks for sharing.
Chilling the water or adding ice to it will reduce the mister's output and could damage the heads. - th-cam.com/video/C8D-g9EPXXY/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=TheHouseofHydro
@@OakLaneCemetery Good to know. Thanks!
VERY nice! Looks so good!
Can you provide links to the mister and blower you used? This is amazing!
Any 10 head mister and a marine bilge blower will work. You have to put a speed control on the blower to slow it way down. - th-cam.com/video/od-nG93ywDA/w-d-xo.html
I was looking at the 4” flanges but the pipe side doesn’t match up (too small) for the 4” pipes. How did you handler he transition? Also, where did you source the 3” flex pipe?
I found the flex hose at work in a pile of discarded drain pipe they used to clear the blockages when one of our waste pits overflowed. The company that does the work discards to pipe after using it because there is so much trash and paper pulp accumulated inside they can not use it again. Took me a while to get it all cleared out so I could use it. Not really sure where to source it from elsewhere. I was really lucky to find so much of it. The flange I used was drain flange, which is slightly different than pvc in that it is thinner than pvc so that makes the outer diameter is smaller. That's why I used the rubber coupling between the 4" flange and the 3" drain line. The rubber reducer has enough give to make up for the difference in the outer diameter of the flange and the blower slips right over it on the 3" side. (See 0:51 in the video to get a closer look at the rubber reducing fitting)
What kind of blower and ultrasonic thing? Do you have links?
Out of curiosity, how was the decision on the hole size and spacing made? I literally just ran 3" pipe through my front yard last night and haven't yet drilled the holes. I was thinking to start with 18" and 1/2" holes, but this video was having me question this choice.
Based on my experience with using 6" pipe where my hole spacing was 12", I did some calculations and measured the flow algorithms, then consulted a pie chart and referenced Guomack's Guidebook on Laminar Flow, then decided to just take a stab in the dark on my 3" tube and drill some 1" holes spaced at whatever I felt like, which was 9" spacing with the first few feet at 18" spacing. lol. I actually DID put some thought into those first few 18" spaced holes though. I noted that with my previous tube a lot of the fog was being pushed out in the first few feet. Hence the wider spacing in the first few feet of the new hose.
Maybe this is a dumb question, but does this make the fog comparatively much more "wet" vs. traditional methods?
Actually that is a GREAT question, and YES it does seem to create more condensation inside the tubing or piping as well as on outside surfaces it touches, mainly closest to where it exits the piping. If you think about it, it's logical because we are adding a ton of moisture to the fog. You have to really watch this setup to prevent the buildup from filling your tubing or piping. NO LOW SPOTS! I run mine slightly downhill from the box and I added small 1/8in holes to the underside of my fog tube to allow any buildup of moisture to drain. I would not recommend this setup for indoor use because of the wetness of it.
Did you use premixed fog juice or a 1-1-1 glycerin propylene glycol and water mix?
20% Glycerin to 80% Distilled Water per gallon mix
SO I have been trying to use fluorescent dye pellets, used for testing for leaks, to make fog juice glow in black light but no go. So now I'm suspecting that there's a possibility of making the fog glow when combining the pellets with the water...???
The only thing that will do is ruin the heads on the ultrasonic mister. Same for adding it to fog juice. In a fog machine any additives will burn off and leave a residue on the injector that will eventually clog it. In a mister it will coat the ceramic heads and eventually gook them up enough to not function. The ONLY way to make colored fog is to use lighting to make it appear to glow whatever color you want it to be. My ambient lights are green, so my fog appears green when it's under them. You can make colored SMOKE easily by burning whatever chemical creates the color you want, but real smoke is nasty stuff and colored smoke is doubly so. Experiment with lighting from underneath the fog with LED strips. Many cool effects can be created like realistic flames or toxic green gas. Look at how Froggy's Fog's A1 Thanos Fog Blaster creates glowing fog effects for inspiration.
What blower was used please, in the UK here so would need to find a UK version
It is a 12v marine bilge blower. They can be found on Amazon. You will need a 3v-12v control to slow it down. You will probably need a different style of plug on the speed control since you are in the UK
amzn.to/3Y6DqIX
amzn.to/3Y54KHR
I wonder if adding ice to the mix would change anything. Being in Canada, air temps are pretty low come the night of spooks.
I get this comment over and over since I first made this thing. Everyone is so entrenched in the old style ice chillers they are convinced nothing else will work. The whole point of this is to eliminate having to buy and manage ice and the mess that comes with it. Instant low fog at the flip of a switch. It 100% works just as well, if not better and for a MUCH longer time than using the old style ice chillers, no matter what type or how big. I've yet to hear back from anyone using an ultrasonic chiller in colder weather, but since it works by adding moisture to the fog instead of cooling it, I suspect the result will be the same no matter the temperature - low fog. (Except that in really cold weather the water in the box could freeze). As of this date I have yet to see anyone get an even miniscule improvement by keeping ice in the mix despite there being several TH-cam videos of people doing it. In my opinion continuing to use ice with an ultrasonic chiller is a waste of time and money. Wetting the grass helps propagate the fog across a yard, but that's about the only help it needs. If you make an ultrasonic chiller and it does not create super low fog, you need to tweak things because something is not right. Box might be too small, blower might be running to high, or fog machine is too weak.
Excellent job! Thank you
I have 8 ADJ low lying foggers that need ice. They are great, however having so many, it's a pain. What motor and ultrasonic mister did you purchase? Can you link? I need this in my life!
There is a parts list in the description here - th-cam.com/video/od-nG93ywDA/w-d-xo.html
So, I wonder if you did put ice in the water if that would help even further? Since it would chill the water that is being turned into mist.
Adding ice will greatly reduce the mister's ability to create mist. It has an optimum operating temperature range and going below that causes it to not work as well. The whole point of this is to get away from using ice and by adding ice you will just be creating a big, inefficient ice chiller and probably damage a $100 mister head. Ultrasonic chillers needs no additional help. They already work far better than any home made ice chiller ever made.
The House Of Hydro talks about temperature and misters here - th-cam.com/video/C8D-g9EPXXY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=D4Kua_f9nIXfNT7X
Why do you have a fog machine on top of the tub if you are using ultrasonic mist instead?
Because the water mist from the ultrasonic mister itself does not spread very far or become very dense. The fog machine fog is dense and spreads far, but does not stay low to the ground. If you combine the two the fog that comes out is both thick and dense and spreads far without rising into the air. It's all about using the water vapor from the ultrasonic mister to make the glycerin fog from the fog machine "wetter" so that it hangs lower to the ground to create the low lying "swampy" fog effect.
Oh I see. I thought the whole idea of the ultrasonic was to replace the fog machine. So really, it just replaces ice? What kind of fog machine is that? Does it work on a timer, or continuous?
Yes it just replaces the ice. With this setup all you have to do it turn it on and low fog will keep coming out for as long as there is water and fog fluid in it. Depending on the water tank and fogger size, that could be a very long time. Mine would probably take 8 or more hours to run out of water and fog fluid. With ice chillers the heat from the fog melts the ice pretty quickly and it has to be replaced every so often. Also as the ice melts, the low lying effect will diminish. The only advantage to the ice chillers is that they are cheap and easy to make.
My fog machine is a Froggy's Fog Titan 1200 machine. I needed a large fog machine and large ultrasonic water box because of the long tube and large area I want to cover. Smaller ultrasonic setups can be made with smaller fog machines, but it won't produce the same volume of fog a big setup will. I run my fog machine with an attached timer set to give a full blast of fog for 10 seconds, every 120 seconds. This keeps a nearly continuous flow of fog coming out of the tube.
@OakLaneCemetery , wow cool! I have an older "The Fog Machine" that doesn't even list the watts. So I have no idea what size it is, but guessing around 400. The problem I have been having with it is that it takes so long to heat up the juice between producing fog. You have to wait til the light turns green before pressing the button. It seems like 5 minutes between. By that time, all the fog on the ground is gone. There is a timer remote that can be bought, that I was considering purchasing, but still the heating time between is still the issue. I have a very small area, and the 400 works fine when it is fogging, but like I said, the heating time in between ruins the effect by the fog dissipating. I assume the 1200 heats faster in order to work every 120 seconds?
Yea, most fog machines are pretty useless without a timer. All of them have an initial heat up time to get the element up to temperature and each time the fog cycles through the element, it cools some. Once it gets below operating temp the machine pauses to let it heat up again. Trying to run one continuously by holding down the button until the fog stops will cause this to happen faster. With a timer, you can set it to make shorter bursts that don't cool the element as much, so the reheat time in between can be much lower. I keep the little 400w fogger I use in the cauldron creep set to do a 3 second burst once a minute and it will do about 10 or 15 cycles before it needs to stop and reheat. There are pro machines out there that can run nonstop, but they cost 1000s of dollars. If you get a timer be sure it is compatible with your machine. There are a bunch of different types, but most small cheap machines use the same type of timer.
Where did you get that blower ? Awesome affect man. Looking to do something like this this year.
There is a parts list in the build video
Just found your channel and subbed. Great builds! A question on using a rolling toolbox. I understand why you moved away from the tote. I was wondering if you had considered or tried using rolling coolers/ice chests. There seem to be quite a few of them for sale on used marketplaces. Should be sturdy enough not to flex and I believe they’re usually airtight. Thanks for sharing your experiences - great stuff!
What kind of trunk are you running it through?
The box is a large Kobalt tool box. There is a parts list in the build video
What adapter are you using at the blower from the 3 inch pipe
It's shown at 2:33 in this video. I lucked out and it fit perfectly inside the bilge blower I used. th-cam.com/video/od-nG93ywDA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=PX4i52eZOkzZgp9n&t=154
I guess nothing you found to go on the outside to keep it to 3 inch without reducing it to 2 inch on the inside?
I'm sure there is something somewhere that would fit outside instead of inside, I just used what I had lying around. It was originally used to fit a piece of flexible vacuum hose that connected the chiller to a 6" tube. I tend to use a lot of parts I have lying around in my builds to save a few bucks.
I'm working on mine now and went with the 3-inch to 3-inch rubber and clamps tighten down over the blower. Just in case anyone else is building fog chiller
For the PVC pipe inlet and outlets, how are you keeping them firmly attached to the box? Do you just slide them in and the resistance between the pipe and box is good enough, as long as the hole is the about the same size as the PVC pipe diameter?
I glued a short piece (about an inch sticking out) of pipe inside the fitting then glued a slice of straight connector (again about an inch) on the inside of the box to hold them in place. I didnt want a long fitting sticking out inside. Ive seen others use drain flanges to attach theirs.
@@OakLaneCemetery Gotcha! Thank you. Any recommendations on glue to use, or should I stick with PVC cement?
PVC glue is fine. I glued the pipes together with pvc cement then used silicone around the seams to ensure it was sealed airtight.
Awesome build, can we get a complete parts and supplies list? That build looks a bit more than the average and I don't want to miss details, thanks!
Check the description on the other video I did th-cam.com/video/od-nG93ywDA/w-d-xo.html
Have you tried Froggy's Poseidon Aqua Fog Fluid to see if it makes a difference?
How did you power up the bilge blower. Meaning what did you use for 12v power?
amzn.to/3WM1nVr
@@OakLaneCemetery thank you so much for your quick response. That’s amazing controller I think
@@OakLaneCemetery I’d love to colab some things I do. How best to reach you?
I spend most of my social media time on Facebook, but I am also on Instagram, Reddit, Imgur and here of course. Facebook is the best bet.
I will have to try the 3” hose on mine also. What fog juice are you using?
Using my own mix leftover from last year.
@@OakLaneCemetery I live in Florida so it rarely gets cold enough for the fog to lay low to the ground. Thank you for all of your info and guidance. My laser swamp was a big hit last year because of the fogger
Wow this is amazing, thanks for the video. I am going to try to replicate this build to get the same low lying fog. Question, what type of fog juice are you using?
any difference using the bilge pump at the end of the run versus at the beginning? Have a similar setup and will look at using 3" this year.
Probably not, I've done it both ways and don't see a difference. Either way, be prepared for moisture to accumulate inside the blower and hoses. I drilled a little hole on the underside of my blower to let it drip out and a series of holes in the underside of the fog tube to do the same. Try to keep the outlet hose either sloped downhill, or humped in the middle to minimize any buildup there.
@@OakLaneCemetery Awesome, thanks! Great work!
What is the run time with the amount of water?
About 3 days before I have to top it off. It consumes about an inch and a half to 2 inches of what's in the tank during a 4-6 hour run. I do a full water change every 3 days anyways just to ensure the water does not start to get funky and stagnant. Don't want to be atomizing toxic water and wafting it all over people. That's how Legionnaires' disease happens. Keep your water fresh.
One thing I couldn't find in the parts list (on any of the 3 fog chiller videos) is the rubber coupler you are using? Is it a straight 3" coupler that connects your bilge to the outlet pipe or does it have a step down? Its hard to tell with only getting a quick glimpse of it in the video.
Any info you have would be amazing!
It was a 3" to 2" step down rubber coupling. A 3" hose or pipe, or the bilge blower should fit snugly OVER the 2" side instead of in it. There is a clear shot of it at 2:34 in the rebuild video here - th-cam.com/video/od-nG93ywDA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=-Afm5IF0Cey-fjKJ&t=154
@OakLaneCemetery thanks! I thought that piece must have gone away with the removal of the flex tubing removal with the latest build.
Any reason you don't have the bilge going inside of a standard straight 3" rubber coupling?
Appreciate it!
The original vacuum hose I used would not go inside a 3" straight coupling and if it did I wouldn't have been able to seal it airtight because of the wire that was in it. I took it to Lowes and test fitted things until I found the 2" to 3" rubber coupling that fit perfectly inside the vacuum tube instead of around it. Didn't even need a clamp it was such a good fit. With the new fog tube I've eliminated the short piece of vacuum tube but by happy coincidence that same rubber adaptor also perfectly fits the bilge blower the same way so there was no need to change it.
I just finished building the ultrasonic fog box with a mobile job box - thank you for sharing this! Fast question: have you tried icing the water in the box? Possibly even using dry ice? It might damage the ultrasonic mister, but I wonder if cooling the water would help the fog density. I know from past experience the ultrasonic mister tends to warm up the water quite a bit after an hour or so.
Don't do it - th-cam.com/video/C8D-g9EPXXY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=JB_Iot0JI0NfN-F4
@@OakLaneCemetery Ah! Good to know, thank you!
I actually to two 1 gallon iced tea containers, filled them with water and stuck them in the freezer. Then when it was time to use them, I put both containers close to the outlet for the fog. Seemed to work better than just the ultrasonic mister. Just my opinion.
I was also using a large cooler instead of what he was using. I don’t think the 2 gallon jugs cooled the water down that much.
But of course, even a slight breeze is our worst enemy.
@@OakLaneCemetery Thank you! Btw, I have a few gallons of Freezin Fog from Froggy's that I was going to use, but it's meant to be used with a chiller. Think I should switch to Swamp Juice? Not sure if that matters at all.
The only difference between "freezin" fog juice or "low lying" fog juice and regular is proportion of glycerin it contains. All fog juice is just made from glycerin and water. Cheap stuff is like 5-10% glycerin, normal "good stuff" is probably 15-20% and low lying is likely 20-30% glycerin. More glycerin makes thicker clouds of fog, but over around 30% and it starts to gunk up your machine. It does not matter whether you use a chiller or not. The juice will still work either way, it just won't be low lying without a chiller. I order food grade pure glycerin from Amazon and mix it 20% with distilled water to make my own fog juice. Works great and I can get 5 gallons of juice out of a gallon of glycerin for what one gallon of pre made juice costs.
Great Job. Thanks for Sharing.
Good stuff ! Did you use special heavy fog fluid or regular ? Thanks
Any decent quality fog fluid should work fine.
What are the parts for the blower and the sleeve that connect to the box ? Links please
Neither Lowe's nor home depot seems to be carrying 3 inch piping. Would 4 inch work, or would this disperse too much?
Not sure what my pipe is or where to find it as I found it in a pile of trash. 4" will work fine.
@@OakLaneCemeterythank you sir.
The fog is great. 3" tube is half the size of 6" tube, but it still sticks out. How do you hide it?
I don't really. I run it against the front of the house and nobody seems to notice it. When it's running the fog obscures it.
Hello. Is it 3 inch inside diameter?
It's whatever size fits whatever fitting you want to use. Don't take my tutorials to be the exact right way to do it. Think of them as more of a guide to help you to make your own. Improvements to this rig are constantly being made by people. Everyone tends to use slightly different fittings, piping and other parts depending on how big they make their setup so I can't say for sure that exactly what I used will fit what you used. What I can say is don't go under 3" or over 4" for the pipe, fittings and hose. That seems to be the sweet spot. Mine works GREAT, but is admittedly a bit haphazard and frankensteined together because I've made so many changes and alterations over the past couple of years.
What foggers are you using please?
I use a Froggy's Titan 1200 for my ground fog and a little cheapo 400w from Spirit Halloween for my cauldron creep.
Hi again. So my brother did this and he said it kept it low well for a good 20min or so, but then the fignstarted to rise. He openeed the chiller and the water was considerably hotter which is why it probably started to rise. How do you mitigate this? Do you add ice to your water every hour or so? How do you counter the warming of the water? We are in Michigan. Thanks!!
How big is his water box and how deep is the water? I have never had mine be able to do more than slightly warm the water. Icing the water is counterproductive and will reduce the output of the mister. It should run fine until water temps reach about 140, which is pretty damn hot. Things that have stopped my mister from working or made it work intermittently were not purging air from the floats, which cased it to float just a tiny bit too high and keep turning off and on, and having the water level go down to the point that the cord to the mister lifted it out of the water enough to stop working. I've never had the water get hot enough to cut off the mister! It sounds like his box is too small, or his water is not deep enough.
Also - even a TINY bit of wind will screw up any low fog. Sometimes you can't even feel the breeze but the fog is ruined. I watch my torches for indications on what the air is doing. Flames straight up and calm - awesome fog! Flames leaning or flapping means there IS a breeze, even if I can't feel it so I know that if my fog isn't doing right, that is likely the issue. As long as the mister is running when he opens the lid to check it SHOULD be making low fog if wind conditions are right. The only other factor I can think of that might kill the effect is having the blower too high. If it's too high it will suck all of the mist out of the box before it can mix with incoming fog. You want it really low so it's just barely pulling mist out of the box.
@@OakLaneCemetery he doesn't have a blower, sorry didn't mention that. I think he built his from scratch using a mister. He's never seen your video until I showed him yours. Let me get more info. Thanks!!
Oh, and one more thing I thought of - make sure the fogger IS NOT JAMMED RIGHT AGAINST THE INLET PIPE! Doing so will cause the fog to not be able to mix with cooler outside air and fully expand. You will have weaker fog and a lot of the fog juice will not even vaporize. It will just squirt out as a hot liquid, which might eventually cause what you are describing. (though it would take a hell of a lot of it!) Pull it back 2 or 3 inches so air can get in there and mix. You will loose zero fog if your setup is right because the bilge blower will gently draw it in and keep it from escaping.
This looks perfect! Will you be doing a more detailed tutorial step by step? I'd love to know more about the fogger you used, juice, and interior cooler set up.
There are several videos on the fog effect and 2 ultrasonic fog tutorials in my video library
@@OakLaneCemeterythank you so much for showing this! It is so appreciated!
Can you please give a list of all items and where you got them pleade
There is a list in the description for the rebuild of the Ultrasonic Chiller. It's a couple of years old so the links may be broken now. th-cam.com/video/od-nG93ywDA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=cVwrV4w7DtvPyVab
It looks like you have some sort of lock collar on the inside of your outlet pipe. Is that just a piece of 3” pipe that’s been cut and stretched?
I’m curious how you secured the 3” pipe for the inlet and outlet to the chest. I’d be nervous using only silicone. And I noticed that collar, so wanted to ask.
Thanks!
Yes! I did use rings cut from pvc pipe to make fittings that would sandwich the toolbox between the 2 sides. I cut them from an old, damaged elbow fitting I had lying around. A straight connector would work just as well, probably better since it's made to fit. . One of the small details I overlooked when I made this tutorial.
@@OakLaneCemetery Thanks!
When you say a “straight connector”, do you mean a coupling on each side of the chest wall?
Yes, the coupling would go inside to secure the pipe from pulling out. You want the inner pipe to be short enough that the coupling fits tight against the tote or toolbox on the inside so that it makes a secure fit with no wiggle room. You will still need to seal around the edges of the hole inside and out to ensure there is no fog leakage. It takes a surprisingly small gap to let fog leak out. Like I said, I used pieces cut off of an old elbow fitting to secure the inside of my pipes, but a coupling would work the same.
@@OakLaneCemetery Thanks. Is it necessary to have a coupling for the pipe on the outside of the chest?
For the side it will depend on the type of discharge hose you connect. You might need just a straight coupling, or you might need a step up or down fitting. On top you will just need the elbow.
Would you mind posting a list of the materials? I couldn't find a Kobalt box like that with a seal for the lid and wheels.
There's a material list on one of his other videos. However, even with the item number (1407437), I couldn't find it. th-cam.com/video/od-nG93ywDA/w-d-xo.html
Making this will be my last project for this year and I'm having a heck of a time finding 3" drain pipe. It seems like everything is 4", could that be a local thing?
Look a vacuum hose instead. Apparently the tube I found is some kind of heavy duty stuff. 3" pvc pipe would work the same as well, but just wouldn't be flexible, but depending on how you are using it, flexibility might not be needed. PVC would have the advantage of being able to use shorter lengths connected by straight fittings to create whatever length you desire, then break down for storage. Cheap dryer vent hose or vacuum hose can be used to connect pvc to the mist box and blower. OR just go with 4" drain. I was using 6" before just fine.
Have you tried using the fan to “push” from the other side of tub? I’m having terrible water collecting within the fan housing.
Does not work. Pushing the air get the fan out of the moisture, but it will create fog leaks everywhere. Drill a small hole in the blower right under the fan. This will let the water out before it builds up so much. I had to do a series of small holes in the bottom of my fog tube as well. It was filling with water.
Okay, thank you. I’ll try it tonight.
@@OakLaneCemetery that worked great, final set up tonight…a laser went out for my swap, it still looks great! Thank you for all the work and testing you do!!! Where can a send you a vid of it?
Great stuff! Do you need the big $250 dollar fog machine or can you get a similar effect with the $60 dollar machines?
A less expensive machine can be used, but you might have to downsize the water chamber from what mine is. I'm covering my entire yard with just one fog machine and one distribution tube so I need a machine with high output. For a smaller area a smaller machine and box can be used. I would still use the big 10 head mister though to ensure there is enough moisture to blend with the fog.
What knd of pump do you use? I am looking for a way or moving water fog with droplets 20nm to 50nm.
This is not just water fog alone. It's a mix of glycerin fog and water fog. I'm using a marine bilge blower to move the fog down the tube. I use a speed control to slow the blower way down.
Wow that’s impressive!
First of all, thanks for the great videos! Very inspiring! One question about the Ultrasonic Fogger floats, do you think a guy could make his own out of pink styrofoam? On a tight budget and need to save some money to make this build happen. Thanks
Either that or pool noodles as long as they hold the mister at the proper level. Keep an eye out, I've seen a few misters that come with a float that only cost a few more bucks than one without.
I'm having a heck of a hard time finding 3 inch non perforated drain pipe. Can you share and tips on where to look?
Wish I could, but I lucked out and found the piece I have in a trash pile. The original 3in tube I was using to connect the box and the old 6in fog tube was vaccum hose. Maybe start there in your search.
@@OakLaneCemetery Thanks so much. I was actually able to find some. A bit pricey but the only option I found was 100ft for $100. I hope it fits nicely over the 3in blower motor exhaust
If it doesn't you can always use a rubber adaptor sleeve and hose clamps.
Very impressive
Just got my mister delivered and other components today. Question: water consumption for the mister, have you had any testing on how long it last before you have to fill up your tote backup? Built a double 5 gallon chiller last year and looking forward to not having to deal with lbs of ice. Thx a bunch for posting
Mine seems to lose about an inch of water a night (4 hour run). I have to top it off around every 3rd night. When I top it off I usually go ahead and dump it out and refill it fully so that my water does not start to get funky. Don't want to be blasting everyone with funky vapor that could make someone sick. Keep it fresh and clean.
@@OakLaneCemetery thanks so much for the reply and information. On a side-note when researching the misters some stated they could handle adding water-soluble pigments. I'm going to do some testing to see if it will mix with the fog . I'll let you know the results on this thread. That is the other 'fog holy Grail' to see if you can get it colored.
One more question… what do you have the output set to on your timer remote? I’m finding that any more than the lowest setting creates too much pressure in the chest and drain pipe.
Yes, I have mine set very low. You want it to be just barely pulling the mist out of the chest. If you were to have it set higher it would empty the chest of mist and there would be nothing in there for the fog to mix with. Don't worry, the fog machine blast will push everything down the tube and there will still be enough of a negative pressure to stop or slow any small fog leaks.
@@OakLaneCemetery I have the bilge fan turned down low.
I’m talking about the fog output dial on the timer remote for the Titan 1200.
I set my Titan 1200 for 10 seconds every 2 minutes. This may or may not be right for you because of differences in how your setup is built. Unless you have exactly the same parts I do and exactly the same diameter and length fog tube as mine (which is highly doubtful) you will need to experiment and adjust your timing accordingly. I sat and watched mine run and got a rough estimate of how long fog would continue to flow from the fog tube between blasts. Then I set my fogger to about 3/4 of that estimate so that I would get an almost continuous flow. Start with a long gap between fog blasts and reduce the time until you are happy with the effect.
@@OakLaneCemetery Interesting. I’m assuming your timer remote doesn’t have a dedicated output dial, then. In addition to “Interval” and “Duration” dials, mine also has a dial named “Output” that controls the strength of the fog blast.
No, it has it, I'm just not 100% sure what I had it on though. Most likey 75-100%
What did you use to cut your storage bin? I’m using a cooler and trying to decide what would be the best to cut up my cooler
And also you think a 2 inch outlet pipe is too small? I have a 4 inch duct fan 135 CFM
A hole saw. Very carefully and slowly
2" is probably too small unless you are making a downsized version with a smaller mister and fogger.
@@OakLaneCemetery yea I have a whole saw and it’s pretty small cooler, like a standard cooler. The hole saw bit I have is 2 1/4 and then I have a 3 1/8 so I figured I’d try the 2 inch first and see if it works 😬
@@OakLaneCemetery yea I have a whole saw and it’s pretty small cooler, like a standard cooler. The hole saw bit I have is 2 1/4 and then I have a 3 1/8 so I figured I’d try the 2 inch first and see if it works 😬
This is super cool! How many emitters does your ultrasonic unit have?
I'm using a 10 head unit.
I love the upgraded fog tube! I am actually upgrading our fog solution to be exactly like yours. Got the mister and marine pump last week and already have the tube. I was happy to see you move to the smaller tube as that is what I was going to try...thanks for proving it out for me lol. I found a cheap float valve and am going to add a garden hose adapter to it so the water will continue to remain full. Do you have any issues with heat inside the sealed box? Thanks for making it easy for me to make!
No issues with heat. Keep a close eye on the condition of your water to ensure you do t get any bacterial growth. I dump and refill every 2 days.
@@OakLaneCemetery Will do! Thanks. Last question, did you see a big difference when you moved the pump to sealed toolbox vs having it farther away (as shown in previous version)? Thanks again!
Not sure what you mean. The small water pump in the 1st version was eliminated by using floats in version 2
@@OakLaneCemetery my bad. I'm talking about the marine pump/fan. In an earlier version I believe you had it positioned at end of 6" outlet tube/pipe. Now you have it right at the outlet of the sealed toolbox before tube. Wondering if you saw better output flow. Thanks
Ah! No, no real difference other than with it positioned at the top there is less likelihood that condensation will settle inside of it. It was just simpler to just put it up top between the new tube and the box because the tube was long enough to go across the house and still room to go around the corner to the fogger. Less is usually better with any type of connection. Less parts = less to fail. Condensation buildup is a HUGE issue with this ultrasonic setup. All of that water vapor coats everything it touches and starts to collect and the next thing you know you have gallons of water settled in the piping. With the 6" drain it was not an issue because if it did build up a few inches in the bottom there was still plenty of room for the fog to flow through. I'm going to put a series of small drain holes in the underside of the new 3" tube to ensure it does not collect.
Excellent, oh mighty halloween master!
Woah. What’s the secret sauce here if ice isn’t used? The mister?
No secret sauce. Turns out water vapor works even better than an ice chiller. Check my videos for the tutorial.
What fog fluid was used in this video? Bog fog from freddy's?
I make my own. 20% pure vegetable glycerin to 80% distilled water.
@@OakLaneCemetery Thanks! Is that because the lie low effect is better, or because it's a lot cheaper? (or both?)
The low effect comes from the chiller not the fog. There is no fog juice that will give you low fog without a chiller of some sort. Making it myself saves a ton of money. I can make 5 gallons of fog juice from a single gallon of glycerin and 5 gallons of distilled water.
I am using 20%. 20 percent is equal to 1/5 or one fifth. 20% = 20/100
Great job!
this is awesome!
I thought you didn't need a fog machine with this setup, just the pond mister
No, you still need both. The mister just replaces the ice that the old style chillers used. Same concept, less hassles, better results.
@@OakLaneCemetery gotcha! It looks like a killer blanket of fog
i was going to do that last year and then make the setup this year from an idea i got from the more professional rigs. i decided to make a trash can chiller to save a little bit of money last year instead. seeing this video reminded me of doing this for this year. but apparently everyone is doing this now so the price of the misters have shot up significantly over last year. they're even labeled on amazon as use for Halloween and with fog machines. 🙄
Search around. 2 weeks ago I was able to find a couple of 10 heads on Amazon that came with a weatherproof power supply and floats for around $120, which was about in line with what I paid when I made mine almost 3 years ago. Some sellers have caught on to the seasonal demand, but not all of them. Watch Ebay too.
Impressive
AWSOME!!!
That fan can't be making it better. That Titan is rated at 20k cfm of fog and that fan is probably 200cfm. You're choking it out.
That's not what the fan is there for. Without it the fog will only move from the box when the fogger is pushing it. The fan is on a very low setting that creates a gentle continuous flow of fog out of the box between blasts. When the fogger kicks on it pretty much pushes right past the little blower anyways.
the bigger question is cost lol
$200-$300 for this build as compared to well over $1000 for the pro units that work the same.
Bit more than I can justify paying but it is a cool concept.
And then I see this...
Ice chillers are gonna be a thing of the past real soon. lol These things work so well.
That looks amazing but I'd bet that you do not need the ultrasonic bit in place. By the time it's reaching the first hole, it's below ambient
PS, thank the good lord for the MUTE button. Kill EDM
It absolutely does not work without the mister. No matter the length of pipe is still mostly goes airborne within a few feet. With the mister it crosses the entire yard and still stays right on the ground.
@@OakLaneCemeteryWill give it a shot. Just finished setting up a cooler/dry ice setup but will compare in coming days. Just need the weather to cooperate.
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Yep. If it's even a little bit windy, I don't run it. Save the fog juice for better conditions. October where I am is pretty calm weather wise so I'm foutunate to get a lot of no wind nights.