Thanks for the video. I've been using the Lucas Zinc additive for years. Half a bottle per oil change is enough. Buy it when O'Rielly has $3 off on sale.
Done to test different type means you lied I just watched you do it you put the monitor close to the engine when you first tried then afterwards you didn't put it on there at all
To honest if you listen it sounded like a lower pitch. Now was the sound doc'd who knows. It also looked like he was in the same area not 100 perfect but close. So it would have to be a last resort thing. Also I would try this if the other additive oil didnt work ie regular lucas because this has a Cat Con warning.
Use a product called slick 50 with FTF resin make sure it has that in it. Back in the day this product was so good even after you had ran all the engine oil out of your car it would still run for at least half an hour or out. I know cuz it worked for me. It was a big storm hit a big rock all the oil came out of my Volkswagen Beetle and at that point I filled it up put oil and ran it with the FTF resin as well and got back home, took her to a shop change of hand had oil in a car still work
Some informative information for some of the naysayers which is very easy information to acquire about zddp. Back in the early 2000s before the EPA started really cracking down on 02 emissions a lot of motor oils contained more zinc some oils contained up to 2000 ppm but over the years oil companies have added less and less zinc to meet with emission standards regarding catalytic converters and also due to the fact that many newer built cars burn oil. If you have a perfectly running car or truck that you know is not obviously burning oil there is no harm in adding this stuff to your engine it will definitely boost its protection and honestly it's a lot safer alternative than some of the other additives like motorkote that contains chlorine paraffin which can turn to hydrochloric acid reduce the oils total Base number and promote sludge. And honestly if you're worried about this stuff ruining your catalytic converters then your catalytic converters are going to be ruined anyway because if your car is burning oil that's going to destroy your catalytic converter just as quickly. Just be sure to do your research on how much zddp to add your motor oil too much can be a bad thing it can affect the oil viscosity and throw the additive package out of balance. For the Lucas I personally would not add more than half a bottle per oil change this stuff is heavily concentrated.
I do like the product and I do use ZDDP, ( Jack Murphy ) I use it in all my engines, Air cooed as well, use it sparingly with catalytic converters, 1/2 oz. ZDDP to a Qt. of oil, You won't have any problems and it will increase the life of your engines
Lower grade engine oils have lower resistance to evaporation. Cheap engine oil with or without the zinc additive is going to have an effect on the catalytic converters. Hydrocarbons not burned in the combustion chamber will inevitably be burned in the CAT and thus ruin it. Zinc additives are not bad, especially when used with quality engine oil.
Most of that noise is from the mechanical cam driven high-pressure fuel pump by the right side of the valve cover. I have a 2013 accent when I bought it the plastic cover/noise insulation was missing during winter cold starts it’s ridiculously loud
Be careful adding things like this to the oil. More antiwear additives aren't necessarily better and it has been proven that adding more additives can actually reduce the oil's protection capabilities. 540 RAT actually did a test of a bunch of oils and he tried adding ZDDP Plus to several different oils and found that it actually significantly reduced the oil's film strength, the opposite of what most people (including myself) would expect because it threw the oil's additive package out of balance.
The temperature has to be between 700 and 1100C for the ZDDP to form a coat. Remember, this is supposed to be added when a vehicle is new. For engine builders. As a preemptive measure.
I use Lucas zinc additive on all my cars no problems another product that I just discovered is BG Moa that stuff is great it really quieted down my engine
The oil that’s required is a 20 weight. When you add this it bumps it to like a 35-40 weight oil. Yes it’s quite because the oil is thicker. Thinner oils for tight clearance gives you mileage. Thicker oils protect and coat metals better. So is it worth running a light weight for more mileage or for more protection a heavy weight that cuts wear by at least 1/4. You decide. Zinc does help and likely if you need this your already burning oil. So just bypass a cat and you won’t have any issues.
It literally got louder, but that's because your now a quart over what you're supposed to have in your engine. You're supposed to replace a quart of oil with that.
@kskip4242 thats the thing I can anyone to do it... every one keep telling me one mistake on changing the chain I could slang a rod... but some times I think it's like a tick... cause it only does it after my engine warms up...
@@jonathanlyman5705 I mean I can't really tell you for sure unless I'm there with the car hearing it run but it could be the exhaust manifold leaking a little bit too up on the engine. It's tough to say for sure without being able to hear what your noise is.
Motor up is a chlorinated paraffin which is a bit risky to use in an internal combustion engine. Chlorinated paraffin is mainly for use in cutting technologies such as metal fabrication where it serves as an EP component during the cutting process since being a chlorine compound (bleach) it is very slippery. The problem with running it in an internal combustion engine is that the byproducts of the combustion process can have a chemical interaction with the chlorinated paraffin and break it down in to hydrochloric acid which can and does then result in heavy wear and etching of the metal inside of the engine. Major oil companies actually did extensive testing of chlorinated paraffin in motor oils extensively in the late 1950's through the early 60's and found that although the chlorinated paraffin works very well at the beginning, it then begins to break down for the reasons already mentioned and even during a 3000 mile oil change interval the chlorinated paraffin suffers enough breakdown and conversion to hydrochloride which then resulted in significant engine damage that they finally gave up on the idea and it was thereafter banned from being a component of motor oils. So based on that, I highly recommend that you flush that stuff out of your engine and use a much safer alternative such as Lubegard Bio/Tech Engine Protectant which uses a Bio-Ester molecule rather than a chlorinated paraffin and is safe for your engine.
I purchase Lucas and the knocking still therel. Spark plugs were changed in march and set spark plugs 🔌 correctly, the rubber with number was line up correctly, 2 different menhanical claim rod is knocking and motor is gone.
Hi Bro, Ultimate Power Oil Additive more better to reduce noise and fuel consumption. It can be use in engine, gear box, fuel tank. Minus 20% fuel consumption in different cars. Amazing ❤
@@erinericsson if your car is burning oil I don't think a zinc additive will help but just throw some in there. It's not going to instantly kill your cats...
Great videos Have you tried the Restore engine additive yet? I use it at every oil change and the old Dodge 3.5 V6 runs smooth with 150k miles. Thanks again
Running that additive in that, particular engine will cause issues. VVT and oil additive like that is not a good combination. That engine also requires thinner oil and that additive will make it thicker decreasing the flow characteristics. You also flunked this test by not putting the mic in the exact same spot for testing.
@@billyjunks my bad, but seriusly, the use of that additive can destroy the cat converter. you can search for yourself the real use of zink additive and how oil companies use this additive less and less since the use of cat converters. for me is the best anti-wear additive but if someone watches this video and start to use this additive every oil change then the cat goes bad, who's to blame? the bottle says right away DON'T USE IF YOUR CAR HAS CAT CONVERTER.
@@D16Y8PWR I say follow manufacturer's instructions also its bad for catalytic converters and the reason is if you have a oil consumption issue but doesn't wear cause more oil consumption and could this help prevent wear? As i say follow manufacturer's recommendations i myself look into a product before using to avoid problems.
Test Is flawed, you need a fixed microphone location during your test not waiving it around farther away from the Motor after you add the additive. In the beginning of of video you held the Mic on your tester super close for a second next to the yellow dipstick handle. I love Lucas products. Your test in my opinion is false.
For more information on Lucas or where to find it click the link below.
amzn.to/2E501ND
Thanks for the video. I've been using the Lucas Zinc additive for years. Half a bottle per oil change is enough. Buy it when O'Rielly has $3 off on sale.
Done to test different type means you lied I just watched you do it you put the monitor close to the engine when you first tried then afterwards you didn't put it on there at all
To honest if you listen it sounded like a lower pitch. Now was the sound doc'd who knows. It also looked like he was in the same area not 100 perfect but close. So it would have to be a last resort thing. Also I would try this if the other additive oil didnt work ie regular lucas because this has a Cat Con warning.
It work for my 01 camry but it dont work asap I had let the car sit about 2 weeks i can hear a big diffrence
Do it again 😂
I agree he put it up in the air after adding
Definitely want to try this on my next synthetic oil change. '03 chevy z71, 245K miles
Your microphone was much further away than the initial level - clearly when you finished the video, you held the mike far way from the same spot,
Use a product called slick 50 with FTF resin make sure it has that in it. Back in the day this product was so good even after you had ran all the engine oil out of your car it would still run for at least half an hour or out. I know cuz it worked for me. It was a big storm hit a big rock all the oil came out of my Volkswagen Beetle and at that point I filled it up put oil and ran it with the FTF resin as well and got back home, took her to a shop change of hand had oil in a car still work
Some informative information for some of the naysayers which is very easy information to acquire about zddp. Back in the early 2000s before the EPA started really cracking down on 02 emissions a lot of motor oils contained more zinc some oils contained up to 2000 ppm but over the years oil companies have added less and less zinc to meet with emission standards regarding catalytic converters and also due to the fact that many newer built cars burn oil. If you have a perfectly running car or truck that you know is not obviously burning oil there is no harm in adding this stuff to your engine it will definitely boost its protection and honestly it's a lot safer alternative than some of the other additives like motorkote that contains chlorine paraffin which can turn to hydrochloric acid reduce the oils total Base number and promote sludge. And honestly if you're worried about this stuff ruining your catalytic converters then your catalytic converters are going to be ruined anyway because if your car is burning oil that's going to destroy your catalytic converter just as quickly. Just be sure to do your research on how much zddp to add your motor oil too much can be a bad thing it can affect the oil viscosity and throw the additive package out of balance. For the Lucas I personally would not add more than half a bottle per oil change this stuff is heavily concentrated.
I do like the product and I do use ZDDP, ( Jack Murphy )
I use it in all my engines, Air cooed as well, use it sparingly with catalytic converters, 1/2 oz. ZDDP to a Qt. of oil, You won't have any problems and it will increase the life of your engines
One more thing, If you have a motorcycle or ATV with a wet clutch don't use it. Jack Murphy
Lower grade engine oils have lower resistance to evaporation. Cheap engine oil with or without the zinc additive is going to have an effect on the catalytic converters. Hydrocarbons not burned in the combustion chamber will inevitably be burned in the CAT and thus ruin it. Zinc additives are not bad, especially when used with quality engine oil.
Most of that noise is from the mechanical cam driven high-pressure fuel pump by the right side of the valve cover. I have a 2013 accent when I bought it the plastic cover/noise insulation was missing during winter cold starts it’s ridiculously loud
Be careful adding things like this to the oil. More antiwear additives aren't necessarily better and it has been proven that adding more additives can actually reduce the oil's protection capabilities. 540 RAT actually did a test of a bunch of oils and he tried adding ZDDP Plus to several different oils and found that it actually significantly reduced the oil's film strength, the opposite of what most people (including myself) would expect because it threw the oil's additive package out of balance.
Well when you're broke, and can't wait 3 weeks for a bullshit mechanic, its actually a miracle
The temperature has to be between 700 and 1100C for the ZDDP to form a coat. Remember, this is supposed to be added when a vehicle is new. For engine builders. As a preemptive measure.
I use Lucas zinc additive on all my cars no problems another product that I just discovered is BG Moa that stuff is great it really quieted down my engine
Is there an additive for automatic gearboxes?
Thanks for this video... will this product work for a 1999 grand marquis?
The oil that’s required is a 20 weight. When you add this it bumps it to like a 35-40 weight oil. Yes it’s quite because the oil is thicker. Thinner oils for tight clearance gives you mileage. Thicker oils protect and coat metals better. So is it worth running a light weight for more mileage or for more protection a heavy weight that cuts wear by at least 1/4. You decide.
Zinc does help and likely if you need this your already burning oil. So just bypass a cat and you won’t have any issues.
What camera are you using
You notice how you hold the decimal reader real close before you add Lucas and then after you hold it about 8 inches away ?
You should do a comparison between the Lucas oil stabilizer and the XM5 oil stabilizer which is made by hmfoil.
Can u use this in a Harley 2020 m8?
It literally got louder, but that's because your now a quart over what you're supposed to have in your engine. You're supposed to replace a quart of oil with that.
Just put this in my 230 thousand mile nissan 3.0 VQ v6 and almost complete git rid of the timing chain and valvetrain noise.
Do you think this will work on 99 grand marquis
Do you think this will work on a 99 grand marquis?
@@jonathanlyman5705 nope, if a Ford modular V8 is making that kind of noise you better get that chain replaced.
@kskip4242 thats the thing I can anyone to do it... every one keep telling me one mistake on changing the chain I could slang a rod... but some times I think it's like a tick... cause it only does it after my engine warms up...
@@jonathanlyman5705 I mean I can't really tell you for sure unless I'm there with the car hearing it run but it could be the exhaust manifold leaking a little bit too up on the engine. It's tough to say for sure without being able to hear what your noise is.
I think that liqui moly ceratec is the best for noises.
A product called motor up fix the bad lifter tick in a motor I had one time
Motor up is a chlorinated paraffin which is a bit risky to use in an internal combustion engine. Chlorinated paraffin is mainly for use in cutting technologies such as metal fabrication where it serves as an EP component during the cutting process since being a chlorine compound (bleach) it is very slippery. The problem with running it in an internal combustion engine is that the byproducts of the combustion process can have a chemical interaction with the chlorinated paraffin and break it down in to hydrochloric acid which can and does then result in heavy wear and etching of the metal inside of the engine. Major oil companies actually did extensive testing of chlorinated paraffin in motor oils extensively in the late 1950's through the early 60's and found that although the chlorinated paraffin works very well at the beginning, it then begins to break down for the reasons already mentioned and even during a 3000 mile oil change interval the chlorinated paraffin suffers enough breakdown and conversion to hydrochloride which then resulted in significant engine damage that they finally gave up on the idea and it was thereafter banned from being a component of motor oils. So based on that, I highly recommend that you flush that stuff out of your engine and use a much safer alternative such as Lubegard Bio/Tech Engine Protectant which uses a Bio-Ester molecule rather than a chlorinated paraffin and is safe for your engine.
the decibel meter may be lower but it you can still hear the knocking
Do I have to change my oil before using it?
I would say so. You want it in your oil so, for cost benefit, do it after an oil change.
I purchase Lucas and the knocking still therel. Spark plugs were changed in march and set spark plugs 🔌 correctly, the rubber with number was line up correctly, 2 different menhanical claim rod is knocking and motor is gone.
What did you end up doing
I run it in my 14 silverado, I don't have cat. converters. though
Esa noche México lloró 😭😭😭
So im supposed to follow my manual but your telling me to add something that is not designed for, i really hope this works 😂 😅
What year is it? Those engines had a recall and they are replaced for free
This engine doesn't fall into the recall. What can we try for our next video?
@@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO bestline lubricants, prolong or even BG MOA
Lucas oil👍👍👍
Yes what can we try next?
Interesting car chemistry BG and Baryman. Well, other products from Lucas.
Redline break in additive
You have to give it a day or two of driving for it to mix in properly
Hi Bro, Ultimate Power Oil Additive more better to reduce noise and fuel consumption. It can be use in engine, gear box, fuel tank. Minus 20% fuel consumption in different cars. Amazing ❤
I read that ZDDP can damage new engines, is that true?
Zinc is being removed from new oils because it harms catalytic converters. I use it in my 2014 car that has no catalytic converters no problem.
@@pistolgrip500 i wanna do this because my used cars are burning oil. Is there a link to figure out how to override the O2 sensors so i can do this?
@@erinericsson if your car is burning oil I don't think a zinc additive will help but just throw some in there. It's not going to instantly kill your cats...
@@pistolgrip500Everything built after 1974 has a catalytic converter.
Great videos
Have you tried the Restore engine additive yet?
I use it at every oil change and the old Dodge 3.5 V6 runs smooth with 150k miles.
Thanks again
Yes i use it but i need to make a test what do you think we should do for the test?
Measure compression before and after on an old engine.
my bike burn oil,which oil additive recommend?
Lucas stabilizer
C.ShuWei Schaeffer’ Neutra 131. (in the fuel, diesel and OIL) it did stopped my oil consumption 100% in my F-250 4x4. Love it!
you didn't put the mic close to the eng as you did the 1st time
Tbh I just use my regular syntetic 5w30 penzoil with like a 2 qts of 25w50 valvoline vr1 high zinc to to the same effect
Great thanks for sharing and what would you like to see next?
I wouldn't call that a knock, definitely a rattle or tick though.
Was thinking the same thing ! Lol I have some engines knock in the past and it's way louder than this
Running that additive in that, particular engine will cause issues. VVT and oil additive like that is not a good combination. That engine also requires thinner oil and that additive will make it thicker decreasing the flow characteristics. You also flunked this test by not putting the mic in the exact same spot for testing.
Royal Purple HPS VS amsoil signature series
Thanks please keep suggesting and i will move your video to the top.
ENGINE STIL HAS A KNOCK LOL
Is this a Hyundai?
Yes but that doesn’t stop engine knocking !! Don’t misinform the people !!! It just quiets the noise but you will eventually have to fix it !!!
That engine sounds terrible, even after the additive
its a GDI engine, its normal for GDI engines to be noisy
He held the mic further away after adding the Lucas.
LOL you said it's for older engines, you mean newer engines!
Actually it's for engines with flat tappet camshafts, which are only in older cars.
There's a difference between flat tappet lifters and Cams and then you got hydraulic rollers and Cams
Im pretty sure thats the injectors like the n54
You should have held the meter across the street for even better results.
that additive is not for cars with cat converters, did you read the instructions?
Looks like someone didn't watch the video
@@billyjunks my bad, but seriusly, the use of that additive can destroy the cat converter. you can search for yourself the real use of zink additive and how oil companies use this additive less and less since the use of cat converters. for me is the best anti-wear additive but if someone watches this video and start to use this additive every oil change then the cat goes bad, who's to blame? the bottle says right away DON'T USE IF YOUR CAR HAS CAT CONVERTER.
@@billyjunks thanks sir
@@D16Y8PWR I say follow manufacturer's instructions also its bad for catalytic converters and the reason is if you have a oil consumption issue but doesn't wear cause more oil consumption and could this help prevent wear? As i say follow manufacturer's recommendations i myself look into a product before using to avoid problems.
@@D16Y8PWR and what can I use in a car with DPF?
Diesel engine.
That will raise zddp to much zddp which will damage engine check it
There is no any improvement dude ! All you did is just making the sound meter little bit far from the engine so you get less sound reding
Test Is flawed, you need a fixed microphone location during your test not waiving it around farther away from the Motor after you add the additive. In the beginning of of video you held the Mic on your tester super close for a second next to the yellow dipstick handle. I love Lucas products. Your test in my opinion is false.
Not bad but it's not a knock it's a CV joint that bad 😅🎉
Couldn't tell the difference
Car sounds horrible. Diesel in disguise?
No it's just a KIA
Smh...
Anymore,these additives fix everything. I remember a head gasket used to mean it's scraped. No no moe
Lies