I used to hammer out bad concrete from basements, and re-pour floors on that pink foam. If you can imagine a concrete basement floor that isn’t cold when you walk on it in bare feet, that should tell everyone how amazing it is. Really amazing product.
Chuck, You ought to be teaching classes in bus building. There just seems to be so much mis-information floating around about almost every aspect of bus conversions. You’re a national treasure, skoolie-wyse!
Knowledge is power, Charlie. You may have a Degree in Philosophy. But you always pay attention while attending the University of Life. Philosophy teaches the disciplines of reason and logic. Life teaches the disciplines of integrity and honesty. Along with everything else that makes up the exceptional man that you are.
Well said. My personal variation on your statement would be that life presents us with the opportunities to embrace integrity and honesty and make them part of who we are. The choice is there and it’s up to us. Chuck chose wisely.
2003, for our ExpeditionVehicle build, we laid one-inch pink-board, then half-inch marine plywood painted on all surfaces to seal. . Our visible floor is bamboo around the perimeter, slate in the center. . Over two decades full-time live-aboard, the pink-board shows zero signs of compression or deterioration.
Hey Chuck, I am so glad I found you. I’m getting ready to start on my bus. I have a question. If you know you are going to tap into your tank for your heater , can you just tap into your tank before you finish the floor? It seems like it would be way easier to get to that way. Thanks
Great to know - Thanks for the demonstration - as I was SOLD on using 250, however in my local Phoenix, AZ market - was having a hard time finding it. Now I'm convinced that Foamular 150 will be more than adequate for my purposes!
Thanks for the great content. You are a good teacher. I learn many things from you. I totally appreciate it. Keep putting up great content. Have a blessed day!
Thank you. Now i dont have to do framing under my floors. I still plan on doing some wood just to have something to screw the boards into. But this saves a lot of time.
Great idea for a test. However, I am not one of those people who think they need to frame in the floor to prevent the foam crushing!!! Keep up the good work.
Too cool. And a lot of fun. My kids would have enjoyed this science when they were in kindergarten. Especially the one who got her undergrad degree in physics.
Great stuff! I knew it would be fine as this is the same stuff I used to put under in floor heat basement slab pours here in Canada. I think it's actual code now whether it's in floor heat or not.
I love this idea so much. Probably just because it confirms my own math. lol! Now I'm wondering if I really have to add wood framing my ceiling... Spray foam between the ribs, then cover foam boards with a layer of plastic paneling and headliner fabric and glue the whole panels up. Reduce thermal bridging.
Also thanks for the video, I’m laying down the floors in my stepvan later this month (hopefully) and I was planning on using the formular product. So this is good to see.
Any value in adding something rigid under the foam? I know floors can be wavy in the bus (mine are) not sure if it's as distributed with that sort of mess.
How about no subfloor osb either? Would attaching finish flooring directly to the foam board be suitable? Btw, I'm wanting to build a promaster, not a skoolie.
"No one likes a butt flappin' in the breeze!" ROFL! Greatest line ever. Also, while I don't believe it's an issue to not frame a foam floor, it would still be useful to see you walking from side to side on it. You hit the nail on the head (no pun intended) when you said to use tongue and groove, though, as that will prevent crushing the weak points. You'll still want to put some kind of support at the entrance, though. One thing I want to mention, which is probably pretty obvious, this only works for FOAM floors. I'll be using Havelock wool in mine and that means I need to frame it. Why did I choose Havelock wool? That's because it's fireproof, and I'm planning on putting fireproof paint over the wood where flamables are nearby. (Propane heater, wires, etc. That way if something would otherwise catch the place on fire, it'll naturally be quarantined.
You make fantastic videos! Could I ask you how thin I can go with the subfloor extruded polystyrene? I have a low profile Hiace and I can't afford using too much height.
I LOVED the bus not crushing the 4" & 1" foam board. ... What does that closed-cell spray foam do with this experiment? Or is the spray foam a frame REQUIRED product to be effective? Thank you for sharing your wisdom!
Where did you buy your foamiest? Am I correct to assume the kind they sell at Lowe’s and Home Depot is not the right kind since it is made for walls and not under slab?! Tia
My Dad had School Bus Company and He had a Floor Jack just like that one...we had 1 bus converted to camper Coleman stove 2 sets bunk beds portapotty fishing poles 28 inch cast iron skillet for fish frys...
you think your method of subflooring would also apply to a box truck? I'm wondering if they flex more and a frame would be required for some reason. I love how simple you do it.
Their are many engineering examples of composite roofs and floors like you are suggesting, structural it's a sound time tested solution in the building world.
Not surprised, but VERY cool to see. I'm happy you also used 1" material as well in this experiment, however I do enjoy a good breeze in the butt flaps every now & again.......
We really needed to see a point loading test without the osb material. Show how much the bus tire pushes in the foam. I would bet it pushes it in, but probably not as much as you think it would.
@@ChuckCassadyYT If I had to justify it for the sake of the video I would say it would show how awesome the foam material is, but to be honest it doesn't add anything to the conversation. It would just satisfy my curiosity on what would happen. My inner child was screaming "run it over!" Lol
The 1/2" or 3/4" subfloor is more than enough to hold screws/nails for any wall framing or cabinets you'd be putting in a skoolie. The fire rating is irrelevant. While it's not very fire resistant at all, if a fire got bad enough that it burned through the wood subfloor, the bus was going to be a total loss anyways.
@@shoutingback09 as a volunteer firefighter and some who would be sleeping in the bus, the fire rating is extremely relevant. Even if it is going to be a total loss, you still need time to escape.
My one concern with this technique isn't the crush resistance of the foam, but the strength of the adhesive and foam in tension or shear. Furniture (and passengers sitting in furniture) are going to be attached to the subfloor which is glued to the foam which is in turn glued to the chassis. Flip that upside down in a rollover accident or hit something hard that imparts a shearing force and the foam itself might split apart, sending everything attached to the sub floor flying. I suspect that this is why many buses and vans with wheelchair securements and L-track in the floor bolt all the way through to the body's subframe. That being said, wood framing wouldn't necessarily help with this either. And one might be able to get away with securing the subfloor to the chair rails on the sides of the body. And even if you do end up through bolting the subfloor to the body, drilling a few holes for mechanical fasteners is still easier, quicker and arguably creates less thermal bridging than building a frame to support the subfloor.
I plan to use my bus for full-time living in all four seasons. I am 5.1 in height so I don't plan to raise the roof. My sons are 6.3 & 6.4 (they won't be living with me but they will be visiting and taking an occasional road trip) so I want to use the 2-inch instead of the 4-inch. Can I get your advice?
I thought the framing around the insulation panels was so you had something to screw the plywood into? I had never heard of being concerned about it crushing.
It not about the weight of the bus, it about the glue of the plywood on to the insulation. It is all about the screw points of the plywood to a secure structure on the bus to keep the plywood truly down, with glue.
LOL ....you will never silence everybody !! I dont think its a compression issue people have , i think its more of a lack of mechanical fastener issue ... I may be wrong..
Physicist here. . . The board is stiff enough to spread the weight over a large enough area. If you drop the tire pressure below compressive strength of the foam, you wouldn't need the board at all.
i like them experiments but chuck wen ya'lls doin this you and Ben need ta be wear'n them there white lab coats ;0) BTW great demonstration off great gravitational pressure lol
Not sure how I stumbled across your channel but I must say I like your approach. Good work. I have a device that allows one to add Lifepo4 to an existing lead battery system. Might be a good fit in a bus. Feel free to contact me if you want to chat. Clark
@@ChuckCassadyYT I just noticed my longish response was dropped by TH-cam. I guess I shouldn't have included the email address. You can probably find it in your held comments. I'm in the US just now. I would love to chat. Our email is our channel name spelled out at gmail
No it will not, i have builds that are 7 years old with no warping. That is why we paint and seal the wood. We have decades of fine furniture experience in this shop and understand how wood lives. Sealed properly and glued well it will be extremely stable. They build homes out of SIPS panels without issue
@@ChuckCassadyYT could you do a video on how to paint and seal the flooring? Extreme newbie here. I would like for my build to last. Thank you in advance.
We’ve built 4 busses this way, math is your friend. People need to remember your not building a house, you’re building in a bus. Dimensional lumber has no place in a moving vehicle. Your 2 tires have a contact patch of roughly 10 by 10 inches each. At 15 psi rating the foam without the flooring over it would have supported 3000lbs or 5000 with the 25psi foam, add the flooring and that 24” by 24” patch can now support 14,400 lbs with the 25psi rated foam.
Nice baseline compression test. But I am also curious about degradation due to vibration over time, damage from heavy loads bouncing, point pressure of things like the fridge/freezer feet, impact damage if you drop something, all on the OSB, of course, not on the raw foam. Although no test is complete without testing the raw foam without OSB. Also test water, i.e. soaked and fully submerged tests, because you never know, right? "How would MythBusters do it?", that's what pops in my mind. Don't get me wrong, I despise foam, the environmental toxicity used in production, the pollution, the forever chemicals even long after you junk the bus, etc. I'd love hemp or rock wool or whatever. But at the present time, there's no better material for this application, where minimum weight, and highest R value at low temperatures are important. Similar for finished flooring, I'd love bamboo or something, but the problem of standing water, particularly in doorways, kitchen, toilet, sink, shower, windows, etc, it's problematic. So vinyl is probably best. The off-gassing makes me nauseous. We all can smell whether a floor is synthetic or natural. Marketing BS, corrupt politicians and big-money loosen regulations. Not falling for that nonsense. But again, in this application, at the present time, there seems to be no better material than composite polyvinyl floors. (Got a little off topic here, but have already seen the subfloor video, generally excellent.)
Good science, but not perfect science. A complete functional test would be to have equal plywood/foam combinations under all four corners (that's got to do with the mass vectors and stuff). For example, when weighing aircraft, all wheels have got to be at equal height, using scales under the wheels, or a combination of scales and height blocks. BUT, your point is still valid; no damage to the foam, regardless. Question: have you ever converted a bus to a complete cargo conversion? Not a combo cargo/living space. I always thought that, with the large interior space (without seats), roof lifted, and a functional, but large, one piece rear door, it would make a nice, cheap, poor-mans tractor-trailer. Certainly, one could get seasonal contracts with FedEx & UPS. Even a rolling work/machine shop!
there is no perfect science mon frere! I think you'd be better off buying a box truck than doing a roof raise on a bus and making a cargo door large enough to use, but thats just me!
It should even work with expanded polystyrene. I laid 2" of it over the concrete floor in my last house without framing, and then poured a 2" floating concrete screed on top. There was no concrete reinforcement, but I put a little chicken wire in it where the washing machine went, thinking the weight and vibration might crack it. Worked perfectly - no cracks. Later I moved the washing machine to another location where the floor was not reinforced, and there wasn't an issue.
I used to hammer out bad concrete from basements, and re-pour floors on that pink foam. If you can imagine a concrete basement floor that isn’t cold when you walk on it in bare feet, that should tell everyone how amazing it is. Really amazing product.
Chuck, You ought to be teaching classes in bus building. There just seems to be so much mis-information floating around about almost every aspect of bus conversions. You’re a national treasure, skoolie-wyse!
You, Chuck, are the “Mr. Wizard” of bus conversions! BRAVO!
Lol, you should just call your series, "This Old Bus." Every time I watch your stuff it reminds me of that show.
Especially the music.
It’s the background music. 😂 Very TOH.
Knowledge is power, Charlie. You may have a Degree in Philosophy. But you always pay attention while attending the University of Life. Philosophy teaches the disciplines of reason and logic. Life teaches the disciplines of integrity and honesty. Along with everything else that makes up the exceptional man that you are.
Aw man James that's really kind of ya. Thanks for your support!
That's so sweet!
Well said. My personal variation on your statement would be that life presents us with the opportunities to embrace integrity and honesty and make them part of who we are. The choice is there and it’s up to us. Chuck chose wisely.
2003, for our ExpeditionVehicle build, we laid one-inch pink-board, then half-inch marine plywood painted on all surfaces to seal.
.
Our visible floor is bamboo around the perimeter, slate in the center.
.
Over two decades full-time live-aboard, the pink-board shows zero signs of compression or deterioration.
this stuff is used as under slab insulation. building engineers know what they are doing and so does chuck
“This is good science.” ✨😂 I feel validated in my choice to not frame my floor. Thank you for the science!
You're welcome! It was fun to finally do the experiment
Hey Chuck, I am so glad I found you. I’m getting ready to start on my bus. I have a question. If you know you are going to tap into your tank for your heater , can you just tap into your tank before you finish the floor? It seems like it would be way easier to get to that way. Thanks
I was going to frame my flooring but after watching your vids, I decided to do the floating floor glued together and to floor. Thanks
This is great for a flat bus floor, but what about in a cargo van with the ribbed floor. Will the foam still hold up?
I have the 150 in my sub floor without framing. Works great.
You don't have to prove anything to me. If you say so... that's all I need. You're the man! 👍
Hahah thank yoi
Great to know - Thanks for the demonstration - as I was SOLD on using 250, however in my local Phoenix, AZ market - was having a hard time finding it. Now I'm convinced that Foamular 150 will be more than adequate for my purposes!
you'll be set!
Thanks for the great content. You are a good teacher. I learn many things from you. I totally appreciate it. Keep putting up great content. Have a blessed day!
Great test! Love your energy and approach to issues! Thank you!
Thank you. Now i dont have to do framing under my floors. I still plan on doing some wood just to have something to screw the boards into. But this saves a lot of time.
He just glues the plywood to the foam board.
Great idea for a test. However, I am not one of those people who think they need to frame in the floor to prevent the foam crushing!!! Keep up the good work.
With wood prices where they are, you have saved people a lot of money!!!
This video and the previous one super handy as I am currently doing my Econoline 250 sub floor!
Awesome nerdy experiment. Love it! And you're right about nobody likin' a butt flappin' in the breeze. Thanks for sharing.
Hahah yes! Thank you for watching
Have an awesome Independence Day, Charlie!
Hey! What about the van floor which has ridges, is that as stable as a flat surface?
Too cool. And a lot of fun. My kids would have enjoyed this science when they were in kindergarten. Especially the one who got her undergrad degree in physics.
Wow... this helps a lot. Not to mention the couple extra pounds we'll save that we can allocate somewhere else. Thanks for the video!
Great stuff! I knew it would be fine as this is the same stuff I used to put under in floor heat basement slab pours here in Canada.
I think it's actual code now whether it's in floor heat or not.
I love this idea so much. Probably just because it confirms my own math. lol!
Now I'm wondering if I really have to add wood framing my ceiling... Spray foam between the ribs, then cover foam boards with a layer of plastic paneling and headliner fabric and glue the whole panels up. Reduce thermal bridging.
I love watching your videos. So helpful.
Great experiment Chuck
Trying to crush something with a big ol' honk'n bus is always FUN!! 👍😃👍
Also thanks for the video, I’m laying down the floors in my stepvan later this month (hopefully) and I was planning on using the formular product. So this is good to see.
Thanks for this info. I will use it on my build.
Excellent!!! That video will go into infinity as the go to basher of 2×4 flooring studs! 💜
Yessssss!
Any value in adding something rigid under the foam? I know floors can be wavy in the bus (mine are) not sure if it's as distributed with that sort of mess.
Ok Bill Nye Science Guy!!!😂 Thanks for the visual and for always sharing ❤
How about no subfloor osb either? Would attaching finish flooring directly to the foam board be suitable? Btw, I'm wanting to build a promaster, not a skoolie.
Lots of people use a sheet of that under truck campers,in the bed of the truck,so that the cab over part of the camper clears the truck roof.
that makes sense!
"No one likes a butt flappin' in the breeze!" ROFL! Greatest line ever.
Also, while I don't believe it's an issue to not frame a foam floor, it would still be useful to see you walking from side to side on it. You hit the nail on the head (no pun intended) when you said to use tongue and groove, though, as that will prevent crushing the weak points. You'll still want to put some kind of support at the entrance, though.
One thing I want to mention, which is probably pretty obvious, this only works for FOAM floors. I'll be using Havelock wool in mine and that means I need to frame it. Why did I choose Havelock wool? That's because it's fireproof, and I'm planning on putting fireproof paint over the wood where flamables are nearby. (Propane heater, wires, etc. That way if something would otherwise catch the place on fire, it'll naturally be quarantined.
You make fantastic videos! Could I ask you how thin I can go with the subfloor extruded polystyrene? I have a low profile Hiace and I can't afford using too much height.
Amazing! Thanks so much for the video!!
I LOVED the bus not crushing the 4" & 1" foam board. ... What does that closed-cell spray foam do with this experiment? Or is the spray foam a frame REQUIRED product to be effective?
Thank you for sharing your wisdom!
You'd need to frame for spray foam
Dude your channel should have way more subscribers then these girls taking showers in a van. I've learned so much watching your videos.
Hahah well I'm working on it!
Where did you buy your foamiest? Am I correct to assume the kind they sell at Lowe’s and Home Depot is not the right kind since it is made for walls and not under slab?! Tia
good job guys. alot more real than the Psy-Fi we get from the establishment 👍 observable , demonstratable and repeatable. 🎯
Where can I purchase this? Most places I have looked are either out, or charge$120+ per sheet.
Outstanding Chuck
My Dad had School Bus Company and He had a Floor Jack just like that one...we had 1 bus converted to camper Coleman stove 2 sets bunk beds portapotty fishing poles 28 inch cast iron skillet for fish frys...
That sounds like a good time
Looking forward to this one for sure.
Seeing is believing. Point stated, point showed, and proof observed and confirmed.
Bingo!
Very cool experiment!
I used 2 inches of the same psi rated 4 inch foam u used, and walla, no crushing in my bus without framing
you think your method of subflooring would also apply to a box truck? I'm wondering if they flex more and a frame would be required for some reason. I love how simple you do it.
It would be great
@@ChuckCassadyYT thanks for the response! Have a great night.
Could you cut up old tires for insulation under the floor?
Rubber has very poor r value
What a great experiment!
Their are many engineering examples of composite roofs and floors like you are suggesting, structural it's a sound time tested solution in the building world.
Agreed! Had to finally prove it to skoolie fan
4 and 3/4 inch flooring!! A roof raise would be amazing!!!
Can someone tell me what type of foam Chuck uses??? Thanks
Not surprised, but VERY cool to see. I'm happy you also used 1" material as well in this experiment, however I do enjoy a good breeze in the butt flaps every now & again.......
Hahaha yes I agree
Yusss this is so true! I did the math on our bus and I'm like, we would have to have a pickup truck INSIDE the cab of the bus to crush the foam!
Exellento! Always learning!
We really needed to see a point loading test without the osb material. Show how much the bus tire pushes in the foam. I would bet it pushes it in, but probably not as much as you think it would.
not sure what a point loading test would add here since there will never be a point load on the foam
@@ChuckCassadyYT If I had to justify it for the sake of the video I would say it would show how awesome the foam material is, but to be honest it doesn't add anything to the conversation. It would just satisfy my curiosity on what would happen. My inner child was screaming "run it over!" Lol
Do you need to use 4” foam or can you use less height? Want to keep as much head room as possible
Of course you can but it's all a trade off
Can you do this on spray foam?
spray foam does not have a crush rating
Lol I think this was a joke
Do you glue the sub floor to the insulation or just let it float?
It's all glued
That's some good foam I'm going to do my floor your way
Two questions. How well does the foam hold screws and nails? What is the fire rating of the foam?
The 1/2" or 3/4" subfloor is more than enough to hold screws/nails for any wall framing or cabinets you'd be putting in a skoolie. The fire rating is irrelevant. While it's not very fire resistant at all, if a fire got bad enough that it burned through the wood subfloor, the bus was going to be a total loss anyways.
@@shoutingback09 as a volunteer firefighter and some who would be sleeping in the bus, the fire rating is extremely relevant. Even if it is going to be a total loss, you still need time to escape.
Nobody likes a butt flapping in the breeze lol your videos are very helpful. Thank you.
My one concern with this technique isn't the crush resistance of the foam, but the strength of the adhesive and foam in tension or shear. Furniture (and passengers sitting in furniture) are going to be attached to the subfloor which is glued to the foam which is in turn glued to the chassis. Flip that upside down in a rollover accident or hit something hard that imparts a shearing force and the foam itself might split apart, sending everything attached to the sub floor flying. I suspect that this is why many buses and vans with wheelchair securements and L-track in the floor bolt all the way through to the body's subframe.
That being said, wood framing wouldn't necessarily help with this either. And one might be able to get away with securing the subfloor to the chair rails on the sides of the body. And even if you do end up through bolting the subfloor to the body, drilling a few holes for mechanical fasteners is still easier, quicker and arguably creates less thermal bridging than building a frame to support the subfloor.
Indeed, we generally will through bolt things like seatbelts and seats
Chuck do you ever through bolt a whole floating floor?
I've dreamt of living in a skoolies for three years. I could live the rest of my years in peace. Just a dream I rekon. Bessings from Indina
What if you don't want to raise the floor an additional 4"?
Well then you're gonna have to do something else! Hahah not sure what to tell ya
I plan to use my bus for full-time living in all four seasons. I am 5.1 in height so I don't plan to raise the roof. My sons are 6.3 & 6.4 (they won't be living with me but they will be visiting and taking an occasional road trip) so I want to use the 2-inch instead of the 4-inch. Can I get your advice?
My baby boys got very tall too; I think I’d just raise the roof because I’d want them to be comfortable & welcome.
Its all a tradeoff! you'll be far better off than most with only 2"
@@ChuckCassadyYT Thanks
I thought the framing around the insulation panels was so you had something to screw the plywood into? I had never heard of being concerned about it crushing.
yep folks say that too, but that is also unnecessary with this method
Thanks for the class in skooolie floor 101…good info. Comment 420 🤙🏽
Tight 🤙🤙
thats insane how strong that stuff is.
It not about the weight of the bus, it about the glue of the plywood on to the insulation. It is all about the screw points of the plywood to a secure structure on the bus to keep the plywood truly down, with glue.
where are you form I thought you said Louisiana
Denver
You gained a follower
LOL ....you will never silence everybody !! I dont think its a compression issue people have , i think its more of a lack of mechanical fastener issue ... I may be wrong..
They'd be surprised how much of modern cars and even airplanes are glued together!
Video starts at 02:40
shouldnt you fasten it to the floor with more than just glue?.. a lot of weight gets attached to that floor, no?
You can do whatever you want, this is how I do it
Physicist here. . . The board is stiff enough to spread the weight over a large enough area. If you drop the tire pressure below compressive strength of the foam, you wouldn't need the board at all.
i like them experiments but chuck wen ya'lls doin this you and Ben need ta be wear'n them there white lab coats ;0) BTW great demonstration off great gravitational pressure lol
Not sure how I stumbled across your channel but I must say I like your approach. Good work.
I have a device that allows one to add Lifepo4 to an existing lead battery system. Might be a good fit in a bus. Feel free to contact me if you want to chat. Clark
Thanks! I have a hard time understanding the advantage of having multiple battery chemistries in the same bank... what's are the benefits?
Also. My wife was a big tiny house person before the boat. One of her builds was also on HGTV. Tiny house hunters
@@ChuckCassadyYT I just noticed my longish response was dropped by TH-cam. I guess I shouldn't have included the email address.
You can probably find it in your held comments.
I'm in the US just now. I would love to chat. Our email is our channel name spelled out at gmail
with changing tempatures and time that floor will warp with no framing.
No it will not, i have builds that are 7 years old with no warping. That is why we paint and seal the wood. We have decades of fine furniture experience in this shop and understand how wood lives. Sealed properly and glued well it will be extremely stable. They build homes out of SIPS panels without issue
@@ChuckCassadyYT could you do a video on how to paint and seal the flooring? Extreme newbie here. I would like for my build to last. Thank you in advance.
They make that foam for installation under foundations with a 80 psi compression strength in case anyone is still concerned.
Great point! I’ve seen it advertised as high as 100
It is being crushed. Had to rip out a lot of it in my warehouse because it could not hold the weight of a fork lift
What was the substrate on top of the foam between it and the wheels of the lift?
We’ve built 4 busses this way, math is your friend. People need to remember your not building a house, you’re building in a bus. Dimensional lumber has no place in a moving vehicle.
Your 2 tires have a contact patch of roughly 10 by 10 inches each. At 15 psi rating the foam without the flooring over it would have supported 3000lbs or 5000 with the 25psi foam, add the flooring and that 24” by 24” patch can now support 14,400 lbs with the 25psi rated foam.
That was the math I had going, too! I totally agree and I've seen the work you do, great buses! Thanks for watching
"Nobody likes a butt flapping in the breeze." True Story!
Chuck could even start referring to himself as "Norm Cassidy" in the intro to these types of videos.....
hahaha love that
That… is the jack of the gods!
Thors jack!
@@ChuckCassadyYT 😂 that which is lifted cannot come back down.
Exactly. It actually pushed the earth down
Nice baseline compression test. But I am also curious about degradation due to vibration over time, damage from heavy loads bouncing, point pressure of things like the fridge/freezer feet, impact damage if you drop something, all on the OSB, of course, not on the raw foam. Although no test is complete without testing the raw foam without OSB. Also test water, i.e. soaked and fully submerged tests, because you never know, right? "How would MythBusters do it?", that's what pops in my mind. Don't get me wrong, I despise foam, the environmental toxicity used in production, the pollution, the forever chemicals even long after you junk the bus, etc. I'd love hemp or rock wool or whatever. But at the present time, there's no better material for this application, where minimum weight, and highest R value at low temperatures are important. Similar for finished flooring, I'd love bamboo or something, but the problem of standing water, particularly in doorways, kitchen, toilet, sink, shower, windows, etc, it's problematic. So vinyl is probably best. The off-gassing makes me nauseous. We all can smell whether a floor is synthetic or natural. Marketing BS, corrupt politicians and big-money loosen regulations. Not falling for that nonsense. But again, in this application, at the present time, there seems to be no better material than composite polyvinyl floors. (Got a little off topic here, but have already seen the subfloor video, generally excellent.)
Good science, but not perfect science. A complete functional test would be to have equal plywood/foam combinations under all four corners (that's got to do with the mass vectors and stuff). For example, when weighing aircraft, all wheels have got to be at equal height, using scales under the wheels, or a combination of scales and height blocks. BUT, your point is still valid; no damage to the foam, regardless. Question: have you ever converted a bus to a complete cargo conversion? Not a combo cargo/living space. I always thought that, with the large interior space (without seats), roof lifted, and a functional, but large, one piece rear door, it would make a nice, cheap, poor-mans tractor-trailer. Certainly, one could get seasonal contracts with FedEx & UPS. Even a rolling work/machine shop!
there is no perfect science mon frere! I think you'd be better off buying a box truck than doing a roof raise on a bus and making a cargo door large enough to use, but thats just me!
sorry I missed it Soo I'll watch it ...lol
Bricks under ?????
Huh?
Nasa could use your type of science well done .
It should even work with expanded polystyrene. I laid 2" of it over the concrete floor in my last house without framing, and then poured a 2" floating concrete screed on top. There was no concrete reinforcement, but I put a little chicken wire in it where the washing machine went, thinking the weight and vibration might crack it. Worked perfectly - no cracks. Later I moved the washing machine to another location where the floor was not reinforced, and there wasn't an issue.
You don't frame to just insulate! It's much more important than just that.
I don't see any compelling reasons to frame
What is the importance, if I may ask? Is it to access plumbing, electrical easier?
Spray foam
So wait, I can put a bus INSIDE my bus!
քʀօʍօֆʍ
Sorry Charlie but a better test of real world situation would be dropping the jack fast. As we drive the rough roads and potholes will not be gentle