@@robhallphoto I agree that if it's needed, it's better to be off the fixture. I just didn't realise it would be so big, clearly I've never used one of these or one similar.
It's nice. Love to use it with a large Softbox and the Vl300 with the fresnel. Toss in another Vl300 for rear separation and hair. A VL300 to light the background and a Vl150 for an accent light. Nice old Holywood lighting setup. Without changing ISO from 100.
Hey Rob. Thanks for the Video. You are using so many different Lightstands in your Studio. Any chance to make a Video about them? What is your favorite and why?
Awesome, thanks. How do you think it'll perform for stills? I mostly (only) shoot stills and have been wondering if I should add some continuous lights to my kit. Cheers mate!
Unfortunately I’m not certain how the M600Bi handles output over its Bicolor range. Most Bicolor systems can only max output when mixed. For example a 300w Bicolor LED has 150w of CTB beads and 150w of CTO beads, and can only hit 300w when they are mixed - producing 4300k color temp light. But if you go to either end (3200 or 6500), you only get 150w. But more recently they’ve begun putting enough “bead power” to draw full at either extreme, giving you a uniform max output at any color across the range. I know the M1200Bi is designed this way. I’m not sure if the M600Bi is (though I would assume so). If it is not a uniform max, then I’d stick with daylight and gel when needed. If it is, I would go with the Bi so long as I was primarily using soft modifiers. If you plan on heavily using fresnels and barn doors, you’ll probably see some color fringing on the edges, where one color of LED reaches but the other does not. So really depends on your use case and how helpful bicolor would be to your projects.
WoW that control box is massive.
It's on par with the rest of the industry at this power level. I'll take the big control box if it means a smaller fixture.
@@robhallphoto I agree that if it's needed, it's better to be off the fixture. I just didn't realise it would be so big, clearly I've never used one of these or one similar.
It's nice.
Love to use it with a large Softbox and the Vl300 with the fresnel. Toss in another Vl300 for rear separation and hair. A VL300 to light the background and a Vl150 for an accent light. Nice old Holywood lighting setup. Without changing ISO from 100.
Greater Overview Rob! Like button Smashed.
Nice take. Thanks for the video. Did you receive the protective foam that goes onto the yoke/into the the reflector?
Hey Rob. Thanks for the Video. You are using so many different Lightstands in your Studio. Any chance to make a Video about them? What is your favorite and why?
please show light meter readings for output in these videos.
Great video. Where did you get those backdrops? They are beautiful
Awesome, thanks. How do you think it'll perform for stills? I mostly (only) shoot stills and have been wondering if I should add some continuous lights to my kit. Cheers mate!
For some reason this was on sale about 6 weeks back so picked it up then. Fresnel and Barndoors just got delivered really want to try them out
Really?! How much did you get it for?
@@robhallphoto $1,119
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Would you go with the D model or the bi?
Unfortunately I’m not certain how the M600Bi handles output over its Bicolor range. Most Bicolor systems can only max output when mixed. For example a 300w Bicolor LED has 150w of CTB beads and 150w of CTO beads, and can only hit 300w when they are mixed - producing 4300k color temp light. But if you go to either end (3200 or 6500), you only get 150w.
But more recently they’ve begun putting enough “bead power” to draw full at either extreme, giving you a uniform max output at any color across the range. I know the M1200Bi is designed this way. I’m not sure if the M600Bi is (though I would assume so).
If it is not a uniform max, then I’d stick with daylight and gel when needed. If it is, I would go with the Bi so long as I was primarily using soft modifiers. If you plan on heavily using fresnels and barn doors, you’ll probably see some color fringing on the edges, where one color of LED reaches but the other does not. So really depends on your use case and how helpful bicolor would be to your projects.
How do you avoid blinding your subject?
Could a 300 Watt LED light be enough to illuminate portraits or a full body outdoors?
Depends on things like ambient brightness and if diffusion is used. Softbox in daylight? Absolutely not. Wide angle reflector in shade? Possibly.