Seems you've been watching Matt Risinger from the Build Show. He has great content. We're building a 40'x80' stick-built workshop and did the same thing around our perimeter at the wall/concrete junction and then up the wall 18 inches around the entire building for extra protection. We used a Polyguard product (joint filler in the wider gaps and then rolled on their Blue Barrier liquid flash) rather than the Zip Liquid Flash, but it worked just as well and is a similarly great sealant. We're also using it around all our door and window openings to produce a watertight seal. Once complete, we're going to couple it with 2 inches of Rockwool Comfortboard exterior insulation and a rainscreen for moisture mitigation. Congrats on your build.
That will be a great shop - vapor open and airtight! We have plans for something similar in the future 🙂 We have been watching Matt for years, and recently met him at the IBS show in Vegas! Awesome guy
This was my exact question- I'm going to use zip sheathing but want to either use blue barrier or prosoco (40% cheaper and impressive results from water tests ive seen)- in your opinion it did just as well?
@@feral664 The Blue Barrier products are excellent and we're very happy with them. I believe both products are great. I looked into Prosoco products, but if memory serves, the Polyguard Blue Barrier products were cheaper and I had better experience getting in touch with someone from Polyguard when calling. Their customer service is also top notch. Originally, I ordered the 10.2 ounce standard tubes of the gap filler and they were great. However, the company did a name change from Polywall to Polyguard and subsequently discontinued the standard tubes. They now only offer the gap filler in a 20 ounce sausage tube. Unfortunately, there was an issue with a supplier and the sausage tubes were splitting at the seams. I had placed an order for 15 sausage tubes and 7 of the tubes wound up splitting, making them unusable in my caulk gun. Upon contacting customer service and providing pictures of the damaged tubes, Polyguard promptly sent me 7 replacement tubes at no charge. They also said they were aware of the issue and had changed suppliers and so far I've had no additional problems. Because of my great experience with the company, I will continue to use their products on any of our future builds.
@@feral664, sorry for taking so long to reply. Yes, the Polyguard Blue Barrier products work great and I highly recommend them. We looked at Prosoco products as well, but from my experience, they were more expensive and the company wasn't as responsive as the Polyguard people.
we have a sealant in a small baskets, and it allowed to apply with a brush. Special waterproofing sealant what doesn't block water viper. We use it to cover mounting foam in the gap between window and construction. Sealant "A" water and viper proofing for internal isolation and sealant "B" waterproofing only for external use.
I believe a 29oz tube got close to the whole back wall done which is 37lf. I’d guess somewhere around 1oz = ~1.5lf. Or 1oz = 1lf to be on the safe side
Can you use this on OSB that is just Tyvek wrapped? I used some Persoco R Guard and sealed the bottom edge of my OSB but wasn't sure about applying this over Tyvek.
I wouldn't use it in that application, go for a tape product such as Siga Fentrim that will adhere well to both the concrete and WRB. Honestly though, if you sealed with Prosoco up the sheathing a few inches, you could just lap the Tyvek over and staple. I don't think an extra layer of Fentrim would do much if the air seal is already taken care of.
I'm considering building a home with Zip R6 sheathing so the sheathing would be 1" proud of the concrete below it. I have heard good things about Siga Fentrim tape. Another option to have a flat plane would be to have a wider bottom plate which is 1" proud of concrete so essentially sheathing would be in the same plane as the bottom plate. What are your thoughts? Thanks for the informative video.
We did consider Zip R6 but it was prohibitively expensive and hard to find in our area, plus we were concerned about the Amish framers in our area which would have no experience with the product blasting nails all the way through (hard enough to stop them from overdriving in normal sheathing). Many also argue that continuous insulation should be on the exterior of the sheathing. Fentrim is a great product from what I've seen, tricky in the corners though. The Liquid Flash seems bulletproof once dried
@@MasonDixonAcres If I can't find an framer experienced in installing Zip R sheathing then I will just use regular 7/16" OSB sheathing and cover that with 1" polyiso of which many brands are available. The materials cost with the latter option may be less but there will be more labor costs having to go around the house twice or 3 times if installing house wrap making the total cost likely equal or even more compared to using Zip R.
Right it depends on how much labor you are planning to do yourself versus hire, the extra trip may be too much. I’d recommend using normal Zip sheathing and Rockwool comfortboard for exterior insulation, fastened with 1x4 vertical furring strips to create a rain screen. It’s a fantastic vapor-open, airtight wall assembly. Trapped moisture between polyiso and zip could cause an issue
Love SIGA products (using Majrex, Rissan, and Fentrim IS20 on the interior) but it's harder to detail well around the corners and sheathing overhang with tape versus a fluid applied product.
No because the tape doesn't have a flat surface to adhere to. Also not sure if the acrylic adhesive sticks to cured liquid flash in general, it may. It is better to tape, then wipe off the tape's top coat with acetone where liquid flash needs to adhere (a step we didn't do but learned about later), then apply liquid flash
@@luktish The ZIP tape (face side) has some type of anti-stick shit on it. Gotta wipe all that off so the liquid flash can adhere to it. Also, ZIP says you can put liquid flash over tape, but they don't recommend taping over liquid flash.
Yes, because Tyvek is about 50 perms. It is NOT a vapor barrier. It’s a lousy water control layer too. Use real plywood on the bottom 4’ of the house and around and under windows and doors and at corners. Yes, the whole house. Go to 475 building supply for products that actually work.
@@laurieclarkson9180 Nope just when at the store watch the trigger mechanism. When you release the handle does it release the pressure on the tube. It really helps to not create dribble. It does not work though on really thick calling or stuff like PL
Yeah, Ive not bought a caulk gun for years, I just got the most rigid frame one that doesn't flex much but I usually always just trip the release after applying to stop the pressure as I spread the line as I went. I guess I will have to look at caulking guns again and see what new innovations I'm missing lol The other day I was around that sort of products area at hardware stores and just saw the same old tech caulk guns that I've always seen for decades. Maybe I missed seeing something better.
this isn't trapping water, you definitely do NOT want moisture/water in behind your wall. sealing the bottom stops air leaks/drafts, bugs, etc. from entering into wall cavities and trying to work into the building. there is zero issue will sealing bottom edge of osb, one of the easier penetration points on the exterior wall.
@@PomodoroArchitects correct but that mositure is supposed to be between the sheathing and the siding, not behind the sheating (Zip system) which is basically inside the wall. Sheathing needs to be airtight
Seems you've been watching Matt Risinger from the Build Show. He has great content. We're building a 40'x80' stick-built workshop and did the same thing around our perimeter at the wall/concrete junction and then up the wall 18 inches around the entire building for extra protection. We used a Polyguard product (joint filler in the wider gaps and then rolled on their Blue Barrier liquid flash) rather than the Zip Liquid Flash, but it worked just as well and is a similarly great sealant. We're also using it around all our door and window openings to produce a watertight seal. Once complete, we're going to couple it with 2 inches of Rockwool Comfortboard exterior insulation and a rainscreen for moisture mitigation. Congrats on your build.
That will be a great shop - vapor open and airtight! We have plans for something similar in the future 🙂 We have been watching Matt for years, and recently met him at the IBS show in Vegas! Awesome guy
This was my exact question- I'm going to use zip sheathing but want to either use blue barrier or prosoco (40% cheaper and impressive results from water tests ive seen)- in your opinion it did just as well?
@@feral664 The Blue Barrier products are excellent and we're very happy with them. I believe both products are great. I looked into Prosoco products, but if memory serves, the Polyguard Blue Barrier products were cheaper and I had better experience getting in touch with someone from Polyguard when calling. Their customer service is also top notch. Originally, I ordered the 10.2 ounce standard tubes of the gap filler and they were great. However, the company did a name change from Polywall to Polyguard and subsequently discontinued the standard tubes. They now only offer the gap filler in a 20 ounce sausage tube. Unfortunately, there was an issue with a supplier and the sausage tubes were splitting at the seams. I had placed an order for 15 sausage tubes and 7 of the tubes wound up splitting, making them unusable in my caulk gun. Upon contacting customer service and providing pictures of the damaged tubes, Polyguard promptly sent me 7 replacement tubes at no charge. They also said they were aware of the issue and had changed suppliers and so far I've had no additional problems. Because of my great experience with the company, I will continue to use their products on any of our future builds.
@@feral664, sorry for taking so long to reply. Yes, the Polyguard Blue Barrier products work great and I highly recommend them. We looked at Prosoco products as well, but from my experience, they were more expensive and the company wasn't as responsive as the Polyguard people.
we have a sealant in a small baskets, and it allowed to apply with a brush. Special waterproofing sealant what doesn't block water viper. We use it to cover mounting foam in the gap between window and construction. Sealant "A" water and viper proofing for internal isolation and sealant "B" waterproofing only for external use.
Hi. I love the content. Did you by chance calculate how many linear feet of sheathing/ concrete joint you could cover per tube?
I believe a 29oz tube got close to the whole back wall done which is 37lf. I’d guess somewhere around 1oz = ~1.5lf. Or 1oz = 1lf to be on the safe side
Can you use this on OSB that is just Tyvek wrapped? I used some Persoco R Guard and sealed the bottom edge of my OSB but wasn't sure about applying this over Tyvek.
I wouldn't use it in that application, go for a tape product such as Siga Fentrim that will adhere well to both the concrete and WRB. Honestly though, if you sealed with Prosoco up the sheathing a few inches, you could just lap the Tyvek over and staple. I don't think an extra layer of Fentrim would do much if the air seal is already taken care of.
There’s nothing odd about being satisfied with a job well done. 🤣. Nice work!
Can you give an idea of how many tubes to order? Was there anything special about the application gun?
I'm considering building a home with Zip R6 sheathing so the sheathing would be 1" proud of the concrete below it. I have heard good things about Siga Fentrim tape. Another option to have a flat plane would be to have a wider bottom plate which is 1" proud of concrete so essentially sheathing would be in the same plane as the bottom plate. What are your thoughts? Thanks for the informative video.
We did consider Zip R6 but it was prohibitively expensive and hard to find in our area, plus we were concerned about the Amish framers in our area which would have no experience with the product blasting nails all the way through (hard enough to stop them from overdriving in normal sheathing). Many also argue that continuous insulation should be on the exterior of the sheathing. Fentrim is a great product from what I've seen, tricky in the corners though. The Liquid Flash seems bulletproof once dried
@@MasonDixonAcres If I can't find an framer experienced in installing Zip R sheathing then I will just use regular 7/16" OSB sheathing and cover that with 1" polyiso of which many brands are available. The materials cost with the latter option may be less but there will be more labor costs having to go around the house twice or 3 times if installing house wrap making the total cost likely equal or even more compared to using Zip R.
Right it depends on how much labor you are planning to do yourself versus hire, the extra trip may be too much. I’d recommend using normal Zip sheathing and Rockwool comfortboard for exterior insulation, fastened with 1x4 vertical furring strips to create a rain screen. It’s a fantastic vapor-open, airtight wall assembly. Trapped moisture between polyiso and zip could cause an issue
Why not Fentrim tape on the long part of this and the liquid flash in corners.
What about using Zip's Flash Tape vs siga fentrum? It has adhered to concrete pretty well in my experience.
Love SIGA products (using Majrex, Rissan, and Fentrim IS20 on the interior) but it's harder to detail well around the corners and sheathing overhang with tape versus a fluid applied product.
About how many cartridges did you end up using for this?
I believe it was three 29oz tubes for the whole foundation.
How many feet was that?
Is't it better to do this first before taping the seams on the sheeting?
No because the tape doesn't have a flat surface to adhere to. Also not sure if the acrylic adhesive sticks to cured liquid flash in general, it may.
It is better to tape, then wipe off the tape's top coat with acetone where liquid flash needs to adhere (a step we didn't do but learned about later), then apply liquid flash
Looking for a super versatile and tough fluid applied flashing? Look no further: urlgeni.us/amzn/pUEx (affiliate link, thanks for your support!)
You should wipe the tape with acetone anywhere that you plan to apply liquid flash over.
Why? After the sealant is applied? What does it do?
@@luktish The ZIP tape (face side) has some type of anti-stick shit on it. Gotta wipe all that off so the liquid flash can adhere to it.
Also, ZIP says you can put liquid flash over tape, but they don't recommend taping over liquid flash.
Why did you both taping if you are likely to put siding or something over the concrete and wall of home ?
I think we just wanted it to look neat because we're OCD 😆
Are there any alternatives to this product that's available in home improvement stores or hardware stores? I can only find this product online.
Lumberyards that stock Zip should have it. Big box stores will not
@@MasonDixonAcres Do you have experience using siding sealant? I found some from Quad that hopefully can work just as well on my base walls.
Can you use this on plywood before putting tyvek on?
That should work just fine!
Yes, because Tyvek is about 50 perms. It is NOT a vapor barrier. It’s a lousy water control layer too. Use real plywood on the bottom 4’ of the house and around and under windows and doors and at corners. Yes, the whole house. Go to 475 building supply for products that actually work.
I would use the SIGA Tape.
Good product (we used Majrex and Fentrim IS20 on interior) but tougher to detail well around corners & door openings with the 1/2" sheathing overhang
Would redguard work for this?
Don't believe so
How’s it holding up?
Really well. Basically a firm rubber seal
That's no random thing, that's a Harbor Freight auto interior prybar tool! Lol
Pro tip, get a new calking gun that backs off after you stop squeezing the trigger.. I hate guns like the one you have!
Is there a brand name one that you would recommend? I hate that too.
@@laurieclarkson9180 Nope just when at the store watch the trigger mechanism. When you release the handle does it release the pressure on the tube. It really helps to not create dribble. It does not work though on really thick calling or stuff like PL
Yeah, Ive not bought a caulk gun for years, I just got the most rigid frame one that doesn't flex much but I usually always just trip the release after applying to stop the pressure as I spread the line as I went. I guess I will have to look at caulking guns again and see what new innovations I'm missing lol
The other day I was around that sort of products area at hardware stores and just saw the same old tech caulk guns that I've always seen for decades. Maybe I missed seeing something better.
Dont forget to liquid flash all your nails heads.
Yep we did do that!
Do you really wanna do that. Should it be able to drain and not trap water
thats what i was thinking
How would this prevent water runoff? If water ran down this layer of the wall, it would run off of this no problem.
this isn't trapping water, you definitely do NOT want moisture/water in behind your wall. sealing the bottom stops air leaks/drafts, bugs, etc. from entering into wall cavities and trying to work into the building. there is zero issue will sealing bottom edge of osb, one of the easier penetration points on the exterior wall.
This seems like a bad idea. Typically you always want moisture that might enter from above to be able to get out. This would trap it in.
@@PomodoroArchitects correct but that mositure is supposed to be between the sheathing and the siding, not behind the sheating (Zip system) which is basically inside the wall. Sheathing needs to be airtight
No drip edge?🤔
that comes after.
@@MasonDixonAcres thanks
As stiff a caulk. Lol