Thank you. This is just what I was looking for. I have a 1930’s house and the stem wall goes beyond the mud seal 1/2-2”. I came to the same conclusion but was tossing and turning in putting the metal in front of or behind the siding.
I would imagine you could find something like this in every state, but keep in mind that the video is only meant to provide those who have an existing problem like this with a possible solution.
the bottom detail is correct but its also necessary to prime the back and edges of the sheet with an oil based primer as well as the front before its nailed on, also a vertical L shaped flashing on the framing corners, the the primed plywood is then impervious to condensation formed when cold meets warm air internally , I did all this and its never bowed warped or cupped in the weather for over 20 years...
There are a lot of details in construction that are correct unnecessary for certain types of construction, building designs and climates. I'm glad to hear that you didn't have a problem painting the back of your plywood and hope that others read your comment. I've had problems painting lumber and trapping moisture which led to wood damage.
I'm confused. 😕 Doesn't the plywood sheathing go on the wall studs first and of course nailed to the wood sill? Then your flashing on top of that then place you paper on the wall in that order?
It all depends on whether or not you're going to be installing plywood sheathing. Older construction didn't require exterior sheathing, but as you said, the metal would go over the last piece of the framing process.
I have ten foot long pieces of z flashing. What do I do with adjacent lengths of flashing, just overlap them? Or do I need to seal/mechanically fasten that seam somehow? Thanks in advance for your answer, and for your very well produced videos!
I'm guessing about a 4 inch overlap will be fine and yes you could always use some type of sealant in between the pieces of metal for extra insurance against leaking.
i found mold in one wall in the basement, maximum at the sill plate/Rim Joists area and adjoining sub-floor. No ducts, electrical or pluming in this side.The patio door is just above this wall, and the wooden deck is built at the outside of this wall just leveled with the Rim Joists. the house siding is brick. what is your explanation and advise?
@ 2:19 you talk about pushing the z flashing in tight why not install a strip to make it stay at a slope like a long wedge shape or a 1/2" thick narrow furring strip right on top of the base of the wall, this will both give a natural tendency to make a slope away from the wall its also a good place to add a thick calk joint to keep bugs and air out. You could even put a bead of closed seal foam or strips from a panel cut at a 25 or 30 dg angle just glue it down install the flashing lay your siding 3/8" off the top of it for a calk joint on the wall. One more trick I see being done is overhang the bottom sheet by a few inches and lay them like its lap siding on each row up the house. then call the bottom lips of each joint. What your trying to do is stop bugs and air movement and keep water away from the wall studs and insulation. This will make for a tighter sealed home more energy efficient and cleaner. Any house that leaks a lot of air is going to draw in outside air and dust bugs or whatever else. All you ahve to do is pull apart a wall and see black insulation and this is key to showing just how much outside air get into your home. This is caused by forced air hvac system fireplaces and water heaters that use inside the home combustion air. That replacement air has to come from someplace and your walls leak air. Also because cold pushes hot when its real cold outside the cold outside air will try and push your heat out of the roof that's poorly insulated. Attics tend to show where air is leaking from your home. I'm not a contractor, I do not work in construction. Most of this stuff is just common sense things. If you pay attention to your house it will talk to you and tell you what's going on. I had a flex tube type dryer vent over 30' long the vinyl stuff that was outlawed 2 long pieces of it taped together behind sheet rock, its never been cleaned out. First off 30' is too long even for solid pipe second its was behind a finished space third it was filled up leaking and had marks where fires had tried to start beside filling the joist bay full of dryer lint it was filling the house with dust, and moisture, that warm air was getting trapped in the outside walls and the wood was soaking up the moisture cracking popping and making all kinds of racket late at night. When I figured out what this was I tore down the ceiling in the basement removed the lint and pipe plugged that outside wall. Moved the ven to a garage space with solid pipe vented it outside my total dryvent is now 3' long and it exits the house. Granted code says you can not vent into a garage, but it also says you can't run a vent over 30' + and never use vinyl type vent line or splice 2 of them together with duct tape. If I add 5/8" drywall soffit over the vent its within code safe and my clothes get dry faster and I use less energy. Why don't dryers use outside fresh air? like a HVAC system or water heater! That replacement air has to come from someplace. Direct vent appliances make more sense for anything that warms then removes air from the living space to outside. And you thought the kids were dragging all this dust! Its your house. And its costing you money is lost conditioned space air. House making a lot of loud popping tearing and funny noise at night? now you know what to look for.
2:19 you talk about pushing the z flashing in tight why not install a strip to make it stay at a slope like a long wedge shape or a 1/2" thick Yes I tend to talk too dam much.
What about the space created underneath the flash when you angle it down? There is an area where I feel moisture can get trapped under the flashing, no? Based on this illustration.
You bring up a good point and any areas where moisture can seep into or under the metal should be sealed with some type of sealant or flashed properly with metal. The end of the metal flashing will need to be sealed somehow if you had a situation similar to that shown in the video. Let me know if this doesn't answer your question.
Great illustration and advice. This video completely validated my suspicions about issues with my current flashing. The bottom of my home's siding is actually touching the flashing in places, and I need to get that 1/4" distance from the bottom of the siding to the top the flashing illustrated in your video at 5:05 - could someone please recommend a tool that I can use to create that gap, while not cutting into the back of the flashing and keep the cut straight? Thanks very much in advance.
Some people do it to keep out insects, but I think it would be better to leave it open or a least a small gap for moisture to escape if trapped behind flashing.
A moisture protection barrier or house wrap is normally required, but I have seen buildings constructed without it decades ago. I don't think it would be approved by your local building authorities or building department.
I had to fix a spot on my new house. I used pressure treated plywood. I put flashing in place. Worked it myself. But i put the flashing on the outside of the plywood. I used heavy duty exterior construction adhesive on the back of the flashing and good thick healthy bead between the wood and concrete so that when i nailed it to the wood and secured it to to concrete that it would work itself aournd the wood and flashing to hold it together. The next step for me is to build a small curb up against the plywood that will also sit on top of the existing concrete driveway to stop the water from getting up against the house. So far it has worked. Pardon the pun but knock on wood
I would just check the caulking regularly to make sure it isn't cracking or separating to allow moisture behind it. I've seen it done before, but it doesn't seem to work when the water on the siding is rolling into the gaps behind the metal.
You say metal, but could you use alternatives like copper or aluminum or would there be issues with those? They do make a thicker aluminum usually used for door threshold plates.
My slab overhangs about 24" can I use a standard size z-bar and cut a saw kerf in the concrete slab, this way I wouldn't have so much sheet metal laying on the slab. Thanks
I don't know for sure that would work, because the slot cut into the concrete would simply fill with water and leak into the other side. I will make a video in a few days and put a link here when it is completed with more information.
Very good question, but I've never heard anything from anyone about leaving a gap, simply install the building materials in the correct order so that water has the ability to drain correctly.
i cannot find any videos what so ever on replacement of a sill joist rim joist repair! whoever built deck on home Im replacing deck on didnt see your video or do it correctly now i have to remove a 10' section of rotted rim joist before building the deck to do it right
Good observation and I would imagine that it would be fine as long as the bottom of the siding isn't touching anywhere where water could accumulate and absorb into it. I wouldn't have a problem with a half inch gap, but others might, because it might not look aesthetically pleasing.
@@gregvancom thanks for replying back..you seem like a open minded person.... I like that and your video.. I diffently will subscribe to your channel..
@@gregvancom I am replacing siding on my girlfriends back family room.. it has a lot of windows that I am not removing.. so what's the best way to re-flash around the windows.. ?
If you're not going to remove the windows, then you could always seal the edges of the window, where it meets the original window flashing paper, before installing your building paper over the window flanges and flashing paper.
I have t1-11 siding should I culk the nails I put threw the side and top half of flashing and should I culk the plywood behind the siding and flashing.. and for the nails going threw the top half of flashing how far should be spaced out and are screws fine?
It seems to be a standard practice now to caulk nails I don't recommend caulking behind plywood and don't see a need to caulk the flashing. I wouldn't use screws and it's common to space the nails 6 inches on center along the bottom edge of the plywood siding.
@@AngelRivera-gm7bx Yes you can send me pictures and you can get our email address at the website. I'm referring to placing a little sealant on top of the metal that would be placed on the right side for example where the piece of metal on the left side that is going to sit on top of it will lap over it and it usually laps about 6 inches. If that makes sense.
+Graham L I've seen this type of damage often and most of the time it's from using the wrong materials. An example of this would be using thin metal, metal than rust quickly, poorly shaped or incorrectly bent metal. The picture that was sent to me was actually thin aluminum that tore or ripped, allowing water to flow freely into the building.
That should have been a transition mud seal. Never use z bar for foundation! I'm a sheet metal worker out of Southern California and from what I'm seeing your knowledge of sheet metal is very wrong . When lapping it should be sandwiched caulked or soldered every 4'' .
Where are you located? What's your contact info? I need some flashing. Proper flashing is hard to find. Transition Mud sills are hard to find. Home depot lowes doesn't sell them they only sell Z flashing and tons of stucco flashing, it's very frustrating. When you are trying to properly a mud sill. Regardless this video was very good because he explained why the plywood, would be rotting. Of course he could caulk that and make it stronger but lifting it up a quarter half inch off the base is a smart idea.
Because the water that got behind the siding or even in front of the siding could go underneath the metal and into the building. It might be a good idea for you to visit our website and check out the siding videos in the home building section and the siding repair videos in the repair section.
Sam Tidwell Most contractor would install it under the weather barrier (aka tar paper or tyvek) and would not put it under the plywood. Flashing is usually installed by the roofing and siding contractor after the framing contractor has sheathed the house with plywood or OSB. Any siding should be gapped according the manufacturer's instructions. I do not think putting flashing behind sheathing is generally correct.
@@gregvancom yeah there are 100 videos on youtube of guys fixing water penetration and damaged mud sills because guys did it the "Normal" way. I prefer the method in this video it adds a little cost, but you get better protection and efficiency at the sill...
Thank you. This is just what I was looking for. I have a 1930’s house and the stem wall goes beyond the mud seal 1/2-2”. I came to the same conclusion but was tossing and turning in putting the metal in front of or behind the siding.
Raising off the flashing a good distance keeps water and snow from collecting which slows down the Decay process .
What state do you guys build like this?? Where I am sills are flush with concrete and plywood hangs over and down past the concrete
I would imagine you could find something like this in every state, but keep in mind that the video is only meant to provide those who have an existing problem like this with a possible solution.
You can make your own "z". Give it a pitch, keep your bottom piece up a 1/4 inch.
the bottom detail is correct but its also necessary to prime the back and edges of the sheet with an oil based primer as well as the front before its nailed on, also a vertical L shaped flashing on the framing corners, the the primed plywood is then impervious to condensation formed when cold meets warm air internally , I did all this and its never bowed warped or cupped in the weather for over 20 years...
There are a lot of details in construction that are correct unnecessary for certain types of construction, building designs and climates. I'm glad to hear that you didn't have a problem painting the back of your plywood and hope that others read your comment. I've had problems painting lumber and trapping moisture which led to wood damage.
I'm confused. 😕 Doesn't the plywood sheathing go on the wall studs first and of course nailed to the wood sill? Then your flashing on top of that then place you paper on the wall in that order?
It all depends on whether or not you're going to be installing plywood sheathing. Older construction didn't require exterior sheathing, but as you said, the metal would go over the last piece of the framing process.
I have ten foot long pieces of z flashing. What do I do with adjacent lengths of flashing, just overlap them? Or do I need to seal/mechanically fasten that seam somehow? Thanks in advance for your answer, and for your very well produced videos!
I'm guessing about a 4 inch overlap will be fine and yes you could always use some type of sealant in between the pieces of metal for extra insurance against leaking.
i found mold in one wall in the basement, maximum at the sill plate/Rim Joists area and adjoining sub-floor. No ducts, electrical or pluming in this side.The patio door is just above this wall, and the wooden deck is built at the outside of this wall just leveled with the Rim Joists. the house siding is brick.
what is your explanation and advise?
Send me a few pictures and I will see if I can help. You can get our email address at the website.
@ 2:19 you talk about pushing the z flashing in tight why not install a strip to make it stay at a slope like a long wedge shape or a 1/2" thick narrow furring strip right on top of the base of the wall, this will both give a natural tendency to make a slope away from the wall its also a good place to add a thick calk joint to keep bugs and air out.
You could even put a bead of closed seal foam or strips from a panel cut at a 25 or 30 dg angle just glue it down install the flashing lay your siding 3/8" off the top of it for a calk joint on the wall. One more trick I see being done is overhang the bottom sheet by a few inches and lay them like its lap siding on each row up the house. then call the bottom lips of each joint.
What your trying to do is stop bugs and air movement and keep water away from the wall studs and insulation. This will make for a tighter sealed home more energy efficient and cleaner. Any house that leaks a lot of air is going to draw in outside air and dust bugs or whatever else. All you ahve to do is pull apart a wall and see black insulation and this is key to showing just how much outside air get into your home.
This is caused by forced air hvac system fireplaces and water heaters that use inside the home combustion air. That replacement air has to come from someplace and your walls leak air. Also because cold pushes hot when its real cold outside the cold outside air will try and push your heat out of the roof that's poorly insulated. Attics tend to show where air is leaking from your home.
I'm not a contractor, I do not work in construction. Most of this stuff is just common sense things. If you pay attention to your house it will talk to you and tell you what's going on.
I had a flex tube type dryer vent over 30' long the vinyl stuff that was outlawed 2 long pieces of it taped together behind sheet rock, its never been cleaned out.
First off 30' is too long even for solid pipe second its was behind a finished space
third it was filled up leaking and had marks where fires had tried to start beside filling the joist bay full of dryer lint it was filling the house with dust, and moisture, that warm air was getting trapped in the outside walls and the wood was soaking up the moisture cracking popping and making all kinds of racket late at night. When I figured out what this was I tore down the ceiling in the basement removed the lint and pipe plugged that outside wall.
Moved the ven to a garage space with solid pipe vented it outside my total dryvent is now 3' long and it exits the house. Granted code says you can not vent into a garage, but it also says you can't run a vent over 30' + and never use vinyl type vent line or splice 2 of them together with duct tape. If I add 5/8" drywall soffit over the vent its within code safe and my clothes get dry faster and I use less energy. Why don't dryers use outside fresh air? like a HVAC system or water heater! That replacement air has to come from someplace.
Direct vent appliances make more sense for anything that warms then removes air from the living space to outside. And you thought the kids were dragging all this dust! Its your house. And its costing you money is lost conditioned space air.
House making a lot of loud popping tearing and funny noise at night? now you know what to look for.
Thanks for the comment and if you are asking a question, I might've missed it and feel free to ask it again.
2:19 you talk about pushing the z flashing in tight why not install a strip to make it stay at a slope like a long wedge shape or a 1/2" thick
Yes I tend to talk too dam much.
What about the space created underneath the flash when you angle it down? There is an area where I feel moisture can get trapped under the flashing, no? Based on this illustration.
You bring up a good point and any areas where moisture can seep into or under the metal should be sealed with some type of sealant or flashed properly with metal. The end of the metal flashing will need to be sealed somehow if you had a situation similar to that shown in the video. Let me know if this doesn't answer your question.
Great illustration and advice. This video completely validated my suspicions about issues with my current flashing. The bottom of my home's siding is actually touching the flashing in places, and I need to get that 1/4" distance from the bottom of the siding to the top the flashing illustrated in your video at 5:05 - could someone please recommend a tool that I can use to create that gap, while not cutting into the back of the flashing and keep the cut straight? Thanks very much in advance.
Send to me a few pictures of your problem and I will see what I can do.
Thank you, Greg! I am sending the pics via email to your greg@homebuil... address.
Multi tool or a mini skillsaw
I installed peel and stick roofing membrane above my ledger board and draped it about a half inch over the ledger, where water can't get behind it.
Would putting sealant/caulk in the 1/4 gap between the bottom of the siding and top of the flashing actually help or hurt more in the long run?
Some people do it to keep out insects, but I think it would be better to leave it open or a least a small gap for moisture to escape if trapped behind flashing.
Great video ...my question is can I only use the studs for homewrap then the window and cover it with T1-11 water proof ply
Thanks... be blessed
A moisture protection barrier or house wrap is normally required, but I have seen buildings constructed without it decades ago. I don't think it would be approved by your local building authorities or building department.
I had to fix a spot on my new house. I used pressure treated plywood. I put flashing in place. Worked it myself. But i put the flashing on the outside of the plywood. I used heavy duty exterior construction adhesive on the back of the flashing and good thick healthy bead between the wood and concrete so that when i nailed it to the wood and secured it to to concrete that it would work itself aournd the wood and flashing to hold it together. The next step for me is to build a small curb up against the plywood that will also sit on top of the existing concrete driveway to stop the water from getting up against the house. So far it has worked. Pardon the pun but knock on wood
I would just check the caulking regularly to make sure it isn't cracking or separating to allow moisture behind it. I've seen it done before, but it doesn't seem to work when the water on the siding is rolling into the gaps behind the metal.
gregvancom the flashing i used was already bent in a 45. Ive got it well sealed up.
@@WARD5KUSTOMZ Sounds good, just keep your eye on it and if it ever cracks, simply fill the cracks.
I’m going through this exact issue right now on my three season room. Water damage over the years.
You say metal, but could you use alternatives like copper or aluminum or would there be issues with those?
They do make a thicker aluminum usually used for door threshold plates.
Yes, you can use other materials like copper. I don't know if aluminum will work great.
My slab overhangs about 24" can I use a standard size z-bar and cut a saw kerf in the concrete slab, this way I wouldn't have so much sheet metal laying on the slab. Thanks
I don't know for sure that would work, because the slot cut into the concrete would simply fill with water and leak into the other side. I will make a video in a few days and put a link here when it is completed with more information.
th-cam.com/video/tE3es9enb6g/w-d-xo.html see if this helps
Is it recommended to leave a gap between the house siding and the waterproof membrane to allow for water to trickle down?
Very good question, but I've never heard anything from anyone about leaving a gap, simply install the building materials in the correct order so that water has the ability to drain correctly.
the plywood sheet should be about an 1/2 to an inch up off the flashing solder to reduce water time on the base of the sheet wood. okay he said it lol
Great Explanation....Thank You!
Glad you liked it
What if the flashing was not installed on a shed, and water leaks inside? What is your recommendations on how stop the leaking?
If you can send me some pictures and I will see if I can come up with something. You can get our email address at our website.
Would this configuration work for pre engineered metal building. We have concrete slab and steel walls with insulation. Thx
I don't see why it wouldn't if it was a similar situation.
i cannot find any videos what so ever on replacement of a sill joist rim joist repair! whoever built deck on home Im replacing deck on didnt see your video or do it correctly now i have to remove a 10' section of rotted rim joist before building the deck to do it right
You should be able to find something on our website, but let me know if you can't. www.homebuildingandrepairs.com/repairs/framing/index.html
I thought you keep the siding up off the flashing a half inch..
Good observation and I would imagine that it would be fine as long as the bottom of the siding isn't touching anywhere where water could accumulate and absorb into it. I wouldn't have a problem with a half inch gap, but others might, because it might not look aesthetically pleasing.
@@gregvancom thanks for replying back..you seem like a open minded person.... I like that and your video.. I diffently will subscribe to your channel..
@@gregvancom I am replacing siding on my girlfriends back family room.. it has a lot of windows that I am not removing.. so what's the best way to re-flash around the windows.. ?
If you're not going to remove the windows, then you could always seal the edges of the window, where it meets the original window flashing paper, before installing your building paper over the window flanges and flashing paper.
@@gregvancom thank you
Great video! How and where are you attaching the z-shaped metal to the foundation?
The metal lays on top of the foundation and will be held in place by the siding after it has been installed.
thanks!
You're Welcome.
I have t1-11 siding should I culk the nails I put threw the side and top half of flashing and should I culk the plywood behind the siding and flashing.. and for the nails going threw the top half of flashing how far should be spaced out and are screws fine?
It seems to be a standard practice now to caulk nails I don't recommend caulking behind plywood and don't see a need to caulk the flashing. I wouldn't use screws and it's common to space the nails 6 inches on center along the bottom edge of the plywood siding.
Very helpful video, thank you.
Do I have to caulk between the metal and the wood? This will prevent air and water . Thanks
No that wouldn't be necessary, but you can install sealant at the ends of the metal or where they lap.
Thanks . Do you mean seal where the metal enter the wood ?
Could I send you a picture so you can see what I mean ?
Thanks..
@@AngelRivera-gm7bx Yes you can send me pictures and you can get our email address at the website. I'm referring to placing a little sealant on top of the metal that would be placed on the right side for example where the piece of metal on the left side that is going to sit on top of it will lap over it and it usually laps about 6 inches. If that makes sense.
A good tip. I had been wondering about this exact issue when I was drafting an out building for my backyard.
+Graham L I've seen this type of damage often and most of the time it's from using the wrong materials. An example of this would be using thin metal, metal than rust quickly, poorly shaped or incorrectly bent metal. The picture that was sent to me was actually thin aluminum that tore or ripped, allowing water to flow freely into the building.
That should have been a transition mud seal. Never use z bar for foundation! I'm a sheet metal worker out of Southern California and from what I'm seeing your knowledge of sheet metal is very wrong . When lapping it should be sandwiched caulked or soldered every 4'' .
Where are you located? What's your contact info? I need some flashing. Proper flashing is hard to find. Transition Mud sills are hard to find. Home depot lowes doesn't sell them they only sell Z flashing and tons of stucco flashing, it's very frustrating. When you are trying to properly a mud sill.
Regardless this video was very good because he explained why the plywood, would be rotting. Of course he could caulk that and make it stronger but lifting it up a quarter half inch off the base is a smart idea.
Why not just install the flashing on the outside of the plywood?
Because the water that got behind the siding or even in front of the siding could go underneath the metal and into the building. It might be a good idea for you to visit our website and check out the siding videos in the home building section and the siding repair videos in the repair section.
Sam Tidwell
Most contractor would install it under the weather barrier (aka tar paper or tyvek) and would not put it under the plywood. Flashing is usually installed by the roofing and siding contractor after the framing contractor has sheathed the house with plywood or OSB. Any siding should be gapped according the manufacturer's instructions. I do not think putting flashing behind sheathing is generally correct.
It will probably be okay, just as long as the water can't get trapped anywhere and can drain off safely.
@@gregvancom yeah there are 100 videos on youtube of guys fixing water penetration and damaged mud sills because guys did it the "Normal" way. I prefer the method in this video it adds a little cost, but you get better protection and efficiency at the sill...
Could you please give your webpage?
Thanks so much
A link to our website can usually be found in all of our video description boxes.
Do you still accept questions?
Yes, Ask here.
Nice Job
lol you bend the metal with the #2 bend being bent on a 12 to 15 degree angle. it isn't rocket science
How to square a house. Getting it square. Video
See if this helps www.homebuildingandrepairs.com/foundations/index.html
Well Done Video
Thanks
I would imagine, squirrel. Thanks
Squirrel.