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Especially those 'like and subscribe bla' before the video has even started. So many do that and at this point it has become redundant. A 10 ohm resistor won't help though.
if you don't have a resistor, load your batteries into a TV remote control, that oughta put some load on it. Then measure the voltage on the battery terminals while they're in the remote control.
You know what would be great? A whole section of multimeter instructions. How-to's! I understand there are actual college classes the subject? I would be obsessed with that playlist. I have this giant Fluke my boss paid $1000 for and I only use, like, five functions.
if you don't have a resistor, load your batteries into a TV remote control, that oughta put some load on it. Then measure the voltage on the battery terminals while they're in the remote control.
You've told 'em how to measure, but not what they should be measuring. At what threshold voltage would we consider an alkaline battery dead under a 100 ohm load? Having a measurement but not knowing how to interpret it isn't very useful.
I was also wondering what voltage is considered still "good" for a 1.5V battery - 1.4? 1.3? Hope some clarity is offered..although I know I can find this on google as soon as I'm finished typing this response :)
@@danc2014 Yup, depends on the current draw. Which is why I specified "under a 100 Ohm load", as that's the example resistor value he used in his video.
There are some battery testers that provide a load, such as the ZTS MBT-1 tester, but many do not. The MBT-1 is a fantastic tester that tests many many different types of batteries beyond your standard 1.5v AAA, AA, C, and D cells.
I pull the batteries out of lights & such when I put them in storage, in case of corrosion. I end up with a lot of partially used batteries as a result. If I use the 100 ohm load test described, should anything below 1.5V be recycled? I expect battery requirements will depend on device the device, but I'm looking for a good (not perfect) rule for keeping "good" (used) batteries. Thanks for posting this!
Two 12V headlight bulbs wired in parallel should do. Of course the bulbs will come ON but you need to measure battery voltage for any significant drop. Or simply leave the battery installed in the car, keep the engine OFF, turn ON the headlights and measure for any significant voltage drop.
Hi, amazing video and great info! One question: Can you use the multimeter to test for current without the resistor? I mean, is there any buit in function that will act like a load to measure current? I'm using a regular cheap generic multimeter. Thanks
I don't think so. I do have a battery tester that will do this. It has a needle with Good, Bad etc and works for AA AAA 9V and (unsupported) button cells, like the CR2016 -> CR2032. You can find these at Bunnings, they have been selling the same model for years now.
Yeah…,bc everyone has a resistor just laying about!! 😂😂😂 In conclusion: if it tests over 1.5 (no resistor) the battery is good - > 1.49 and the battery is no good. Is this correct? Let me tell you about the time my EX husband handed me the capacitor from a camera flash - twice!! 🤣🤣🤣
My multi meter has a battery test setting which i assume has that 100 ohm resistance built in. Edit* just tested the meter with my other meter & when the battery test is selected & i probe the battery testing meter & it reads 75ohms.
The actual impedance value is not critical as long as it’s realistic approximation of the load, I always assumed it was built into the meter as you observed.
Thanks! I've been having issues with batteries passing a voltage no-load test as being good but the devices they powered not working well. I didn't know that inserting a 100 Ohm resistor method would provide such a different result.
I would like to see your take on testing Lithium batteries, to see how it compares to what I've been doing based on advice from 'batteries only' retailers.
Wouldn't the meter inherently provide a load (resistance)...simply by having the current flow through its wires and internal electronics? Why is there even a need to provide a load to measure the potential difference?
Does this work to test a car battery? If so, what size of a resistor is required? Also, does the resistor size increase depending on the volts of a battery?
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2 ปีที่แล้ว +2
You can simply measure short circuit current in a short period of time not to drain or overheat the battery. If the short circuit current is more than few amps (depends on the battery) battery is usually good. To do this put the multimeter in DC Current mode in AMPS (not miliAmps) and test it: red on plus, black on minus side. Testing should not be longer than couple of seconds (2-3) to prevent damage to the battery
So this helps to compare a completely dead battery from a new battery, but what about a marginal battery - one that outputs 1.45V or 1.4V under load? Is that considered dead?
If I get suspicious about a battery, I'll short it briefly then check the voltage. If the voltage is down a bit and going up, it's not so good. If the voltage is pretty much he same and not going up, it's ok. If the voltage is lower than 2/3 of the rated voltage, it's dead. Others above this but not 'full' will join the line of semi-dead batteries to die over a period of time driving a clock !
How to load test a car battery? How do the battery "analyzers" work.. you know them were you put in like CCA/EN and you get if battery are good or bad.. internal resistance etc.. i know there are big battery loaders for car batterys but.. would be nice to have something like this as an alternative.
if you don't have a resistor, load your batteries into a TV remote control, that oughta put some load on it. Then measure the voltage on the battery terminals while they're in the remote control.
Great way to test it with a light load. It can also be tested under load in the device it's installed if it's accessible, but I like your way for a quick test.
@@EngineeringMindset The section of interest in your new video (battery testing with a load) is identical, so nothing new was learned. It's at the end so I spent time watching the whole thing. Slightly devious.
I have a really cheap battery tester. It shows "batt V" with two settings: 1.5 and 9. Can I test a 12v MN21/23 battery using one of those settings? Thanks for a clear and useful video.
My 10 year old Casio caculator batteri, original battery is at 1.53 V, should be at 1.5V, but assumed it would have dropped after being used for 3 years of high school and 3 years so far of engineering studies, I don't get why it hasn't dropped, it's not a capacitator, and it's not a solar model calculator, just a plane old no thrills scientific caculator...
Why does it sometimes read 1.5 but is not good and how is that then helpful knowing it's still 1.5 if it's not a true test? Also what number is considered "dead"?
He totally forgot too mension that even if the voltage is under the specific 1.5 V for ex aa, or aaa batteries is still usefull, Its when the battery is totally useless the voltage is under 0.8 V and not worth using at any device for ex a remotecontrol for a tv. Soo never throw your batteries away before using them up them totally. Is both good for nature and your less spend money
What if the resistor is more than 100 Ohm. I used a small usb music player as resistor having 8 MOhm. Perhaps that is no good, since the current is too small.
hey i have a batter pack, its for an old rc car and its rated 6 volts for 5 batteries together, i read the voltage ( the charger didnt work ) and it read 0.315 volts, dead or rechargeable?
With many batteries lying around the house, the kids end up mixing them with new ones and they all read 1.5v, a load test will surely help separate them, thanks 👍
I don't understand how the current goes through the wires to the resistor and doesn't just go straight through the battery like it does without the resistor attached.
The resistance of the resistor (?!) isn't infinite, so some current will flow through it. An AA battery has its own internal resistance of maybe 0.5 ohms, and we know the resistor is 100 ohms, or 200x greater, so we would expect 200x more electrons to flow through the battery than through the resistor.
First of all , the battery inside the multimeter (1.5v or 9v) must be brand new for most accurate results. If the internal battery is dead, you will be getting false readings like 1.5volts on a nicd/nimh battery, 1.7volts on an alkaline , 240volts AC on wall plug etc...
Thank you! Exactly what I was curious about as I measured my dead AAA battery’s and still got 1.566V and was left puzzled. As the new ones only had 1.599V
Is there any way we can measure the current from the battery? For example, if it's a 25000mAh AA battery, how can I measure the 2500mAh current output from the battery???
the input resistance of the voltmeter is way to high to serve as a load (1-10 MOhm) so there is very little current flow from the battery -> 1.5 V / 1 MOhm = 1.5 μA if you put a 100 Ohm resistor in parallel, you still have ~100 Ohm (99.99000) -> 1.5 V / 100 Ohm = 15 mA, that's a lot more current flowing (more load) Now if the battery is full, there is enough "juice" inside to keep the voltage near the rated value. If the battery is dead, there's no "juice" left to feed the voltmeter and the resistor with the rated 1.5 Volts :(
@@SystemX1983 thanks man that helped me sort this out better in my head. Just curious, on a 1.5V battery, what voltage would be considered dead? 1,4, 1.3....1.0? how far down?
@@FineTuned wikipedia says a really dead battery can still have 0.8 to 1.0 volts ... in general it depends on the connected circuit, for example a tv remote can still operate with a battery that seems dead for a high power LED torch :)
....if it has .86 volts left it means there's still energy in it? But it can't produce the rated voltage and so any device that would use it would say their dead?
What are the odds of this needing to be done on high end or lets say lithium or cell batteries? That extra step stinks to have to get together and im totally surprised I didnt know this!
I have recently attached a USB Power supply to my infrequently used Multimeters, to eliminate the possibility of Battery acid leakage inside the meter. Available in USB 5V DC to 6, 7.5, 9 or 12V Boost & 1.5, 3 or 4.5V Buck, Converters Plug size similar to a USB Memory stick. Cost around US$5 each, on EBay. For the small inconvenience of having to attache one of these Multimeters to a USB Charger, I don't have to worry about Battery leakage in any of these meters.
Hi everyone. I've tried this method. I bought a big bag of resistors from 1 ohms to 40k and despite following this tutorial, the voltage does not drop at all for AAA, AA and 18650 batteries. I've switched to the ohms setting on the multimeter and it does show near enough the right ohms for the resistors.
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Which alkaline battery is good Energizer or duracell or Jcb ?
😂
It’s great that you just jump right in to the material without some kind of annoying intro like so many others feel the need to do. Thank you!
Especially those 'like and subscribe bla' before the video has even started. So many do that and at this point it has become redundant. A 10 ohm resistor won't help though.
Yes thank you for saying this!
Thats true
yeahh !!
if you don't have a resistor, load your batteries into a TV remote control, that oughta put some load on it. Then measure the voltage on the battery terminals while they're in the remote control.
You know what would be great? A whole section of multimeter instructions. How-to's! I understand there are actual college classes the subject? I would be obsessed with that playlist.
I have this giant Fluke my boss paid $1000 for and I only use, like, five functions.
Five?! I just know how to make mine beep.
if you don't have a resistor, load your batteries into a TV remote control, that oughta put some load on it. Then measure the voltage on the battery terminals while they're in the remote control.
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Perhaps you will discover uses for the other functions, by a ... fluke.
You've told 'em how to measure, but not what they should be measuring. At what threshold voltage would we consider an alkaline battery dead under a 100 ohm load? Having a measurement but not knowing how to interpret it isn't very useful.
I was also wondering what voltage is considered still "good" for a 1.5V battery - 1.4? 1.3? Hope some clarity is offered..although I know I can find this on google as soon as I'm finished typing this response :)
That depends on the use. A wall clock works fine at 1.2 v but a laser pointer would not.
@@danc2014 Yup, depends on the current draw. Which is why I specified "under a 100 Ohm load", as that's the example resistor value he used in his video.
A rule of thumb like xx% drop from no load voltage at a specific current would be nice to know.
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Direct to the point. Easy to understand easy to learn. This channel is highly recommended for future engineers
How would this compare to a consumer battery tester? Can battery testers also show 1.5 v when depleted or do they have that resistor trick built in?
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There are some battery testers that provide a load, such as the ZTS MBT-1 tester, but many do not. The MBT-1 is a fantastic tester that tests many many different types of batteries beyond your standard 1.5v AAA, AA, C, and D cells.
Thanks! I appreciate that there is no long intro, straight to business and very clear explanation :)
I pull the batteries out of lights & such when I put them in storage, in case of corrosion. I end up with a lot of partially used batteries as a result.
If I use the 100 ohm load test described, should anything below 1.5V be recycled? I expect battery requirements will depend on device the device, but I'm looking for a good (not perfect) rule for keeping "good" (used) batteries.
Thanks for posting this!
Nice tip about using a resistor. 👍
Two 12V headlight bulbs wired in parallel should do. Of course the bulbs will come ON but you need to measure battery voltage for any significant drop.
Or simply leave the battery installed in the car, keep the engine OFF, turn ON the headlights and measure for any significant voltage drop.
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Video should be titled how to check a battery with a multimeter AND a resistor. What if I don’t have a resistor lying around?
Skill issue
True, I have a volt meter that I use for different things but I do not have a resistor just lying around.
"Nominal" voltage should be mentioned.
Hi, amazing video and great info! One question: Can you use the multimeter to test for current without the resistor? I mean, is there any buit in function that will act like a load to measure current? I'm using a regular cheap generic multimeter. Thanks
I don't think so. I do have a battery tester that will do this. It has a needle with Good, Bad etc and works for AA AAA 9V and (unsupported) button cells, like the CR2016 -> CR2032.
You can find these at Bunnings, they have been selling the same model for years now.
Yeah…,bc everyone has a resistor just laying about!! 😂😂😂
In conclusion: if it tests over 1.5 (no resistor) the battery is good - > 1.49 and the battery is no good. Is this correct?
Let me tell you about the time my EX husband handed me the capacitor from a camera flash - twice!! 🤣🤣🤣
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Great explanation without bs. I think my meter's battery check mode includes some resistance already.
My multi meter has a battery test setting which i assume has that 100 ohm resistance built in.
Edit* just tested the meter with my other meter & when the battery test is selected & i probe the battery testing meter & it reads 75ohms.
The actual impedance value is not critical as long as it’s realistic approximation of the load, I always assumed it was built into the meter as you observed.
Thanks! I've been having issues with batteries passing a voltage no-load test as being good but the devices they powered not working well. I didn't know that inserting a 100 Ohm resistor method would provide such a different result.
I've never tested my batteries under load. I feel like I've wasted 40 years. Thank you!
Thank you very much, Great work. is this work for the re-chargeable batteries too?
Why don't the manufacturers put a battery test option on the multi meter dial to incorporate a 100 Ohm resister. Would make life easier.
Many multimeters do have it.
My Greenlee multimeter have a 1.5V and a 9V load test which I never used before, until watching this video ;
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Great video! But could you explain why this happens? Please
like a car engine trying to drive uphill, it has to work harder. sitting in your driveway idling isn't actually working but still a good engine.
I remember way back in tech school, an instructor once sad, "batteries don't go dead, their internal resistance goes up until they are not usable"
Simple and clear explanation👍
The LoZ function on my Fluke 117 performs a similar function with no need for an added resistor. Great video and very well presented.
Damn, I have the 115 and no such luck. 😭
How do you have such equipment and you need to watch this video?
@@AutoFirePad it's not your business. 🙃
@@Sunstepa Wasn't talking to you :)
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I would like to see your take on testing Lithium batteries, to see how it compares to what I've been doing based on advice from 'batteries only' retailers.
Excellent demo with the 0.86V result.
I checked so much battery but I tought if it is above 1 volt it is still good... thanks E.M.
Wouldn't the meter inherently provide a load (resistance)...simply by having the current flow through its wires and internal electronics? Why is there even a need to provide a load to measure the potential difference?
My respect for you. I bought this thing to test the batteries and had no idea what to do but this video showed everything I need to know. Many thanks.
Does this work to test a car battery? If so, what size of a resistor is required? Also, does the resistor size increase depending on the volts of a battery?
Can I use the same method while the battery is under load inside a flash light if I don't have a resistor at hand? Thanks!
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You can simply measure short circuit current in a short period of time not to drain or overheat the battery. If the short circuit current is more than few amps (depends on the battery) battery is usually good.
To do this put the multimeter in DC Current mode in AMPS (not miliAmps) and test it: red on plus, black on minus side. Testing should not be longer than couple of seconds (2-3) to prevent damage to the battery
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Brought to you by Duracell! Jk thanks for the content,I love your channel.
So this helps to compare a completely dead battery from a new battery, but what about a marginal battery - one that outputs 1.45V or 1.4V under load? Is that considered dead?
If I get suspicious about a battery, I'll short it briefly then check the voltage. If the voltage is down a bit and going up, it's not so good. If the voltage is pretty much he same and not going up, it's ok.
If the voltage is lower than 2/3 of the rated voltage, it's dead. Others above this but not 'full' will join the line of semi-dead batteries to die over a period of time driving a clock !
How to load test a car battery? How do the battery "analyzers" work.. you know them were you put in like CCA/EN and you get if battery are good or bad.. internal resistance etc..
i know there are big battery loaders for car batterys but.. would be nice to have something like this as an alternative.
if you don't have a resistor, load your batteries into a TV remote control, that oughta put some load on it. Then measure the voltage on the battery terminals while they're in the remote control.
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Great video as always 👍
Thanks for sharing this simple walkthrough of how to check the condition of a somewhat used battery 👍😀
Great way to test it with a light load. It can also be tested under load in the device it's installed if it's accessible, but I like your way for a quick test.
If it is a remote controller, would Input both batteries in and then test each with the multimeter?
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@@EngineeringMindset The section of interest in your new video (battery testing with a load) is identical, so nothing new was learned. It's at the end so I spent time watching the whole thing. Slightly devious.
Downvote. My multimeter's direct voltage section has 200m, 2000m, 20, 200, and 1000 to choose from. What should I choose?
I have a really cheap battery tester. It shows "batt V" with two settings: 1.5 and 9. Can I test a 12v MN21/23 battery using one of those settings? Thanks for a clear and useful video.
My 10 year old Casio caculator batteri, original battery is at 1.53 V, should be at 1.5V, but assumed it would have dropped after being used for 3 years of high school and 3 years so far of engineering studies, I don't get why it hasn't dropped, it's not a capacitator, and it's not a solar model calculator, just a plane old no thrills scientific caculator...
While checking Amperage in aaa battery it's heated itself, why?
Why does it sometimes read 1.5 but is not good and how is that then helpful knowing it's still 1.5 if it's not a true test?
Also what number is considered "dead"?
He totally forgot too mension that even if the voltage is under the specific 1.5 V for ex aa, or aaa batteries is still usefull, Its when the battery is totally useless the voltage is under 0.8 V and not worth using at any device for ex a remotecontrol for a tv. Soo never throw your batteries away before using them up them totally. Is both good for nature and your less spend money
What if the resistor is more than 100 Ohm. I used a small usb music player as resistor having 8 MOhm. Perhaps that is no good, since the current is too small.
The difference between alligator clips and crocodile clips: The eyes on crocodile clips face forward. [Try to find the eyes.]
hey i have a batter pack, its for an old rc car and its rated 6 volts for 5 batteries together, i read the voltage ( the charger didnt work ) and it read 0.315 volts, dead or rechargeable?
Thank you so much. What a great instructional video 🙂
Why would a battery that's dying still read 1.5V just because it doesn't have a load such as the resistor?
How exactly do I find how many Ohms I need? I want to test a 3V battery and have no clue what resistor value I should use.
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Who else is here because their father didn't teach them this stuff xd
👍👍👍👍👍👍 great vid for entry level like me... forever there will be entry level people
Can a resistor be anything that connects the current? Like can a resistor just be a paper clip
Do i need to use a different resistor if i want to test a 12V 1.3Ah house alarm battery? Thanks
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what if it’s a rechargeable battery does the voltage changes when the battery charge is low or charge is high
Why did my resister randomly stopped working?
Why 100ohms resistor how do you determine which is necessary
Excellent video. Thank you!
Just found your channel, great stuff!
how do you size the resistor based on the battery being tested?
Informative. Thank you.
With many batteries lying around the house, the kids end up mixing them with new ones and they all read 1.5v, a load test will surely help separate them, thanks 👍
Excellent, cheers from Canada....I had a similar problem...got a new 1.5 V from $ Store...my 1983 Citizen clock is running again...
Where and what kind of resistor do I buy
👍👍👍
I don't understand how the current goes through the wires to the resistor and doesn't just go straight through the battery like it does without the resistor attached.
The resistance of the resistor (?!) isn't infinite, so some current will flow through it. An AA battery has its own internal resistance of maybe 0.5 ohms, and we know the resistor is 100 ohms, or 200x greater, so we would expect 200x more electrons to flow through the battery than through the resistor.
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First of all , the battery inside the multimeter (1.5v or 9v) must be brand new for most accurate results.
If the internal battery is dead, you will be getting false readings like 1.5volts on a nicd/nimh battery, 1.7volts on an alkaline , 240volts AC on wall plug etc...
Great video, but what is the wattage of the resistor?
For 1.5 v battery, 1/4 watt would be fine.
Thank you
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I have a DCA and a DCV setting on my multimeter. None of those settings give me readings on a brand new battery.
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Can some tell me if the battery is gone
On the battery they written 3.6v
But when i measure it it shows me 2.49
yes, it should be around 3.6v. even like 3.4v is a sign of a dead battery.
Great 👍
Am I the only one that can’t understand this because they are showing a photo instead of the actual meter?
Watch our multimeter tutorial
Wattage rating on those 100ohm? 1/5w?
Should i get 5% or >1% tolerance 0.5w?
I`m looking for a resistor to match the 18650 batteries, the one used in Bosch/Makita screwdriver with 3.5 V. Any idea? Thanks!
Crocodile clips. That's funny. 🇺🇲🐊
Thank you! Exactly what I was curious about as I measured my dead AAA battery’s and still got 1.566V and was left puzzled. As the new ones only had 1.599V
Can you explain how REMOTE CONTROL CAR TOY'S WORKS 😁😁
Is there any way we can measure the current from the battery?
For example, if it's a 25000mAh AA battery, how can I measure the 2500mAh current output from the battery???
But why multimeter is not serving the battery as Load why we have to use an external resistance to use it as Load #PleaseHelp
Some have it built in for 1.5 and 9V
Measuring voltage isn't the same as checking a battery, you should keep the current close to 0 so that the voltage isn't affected much.
the input resistance of the voltmeter is way to high to serve as a load (1-10 MOhm)
so there is very little current flow from the battery -> 1.5 V / 1 MOhm = 1.5 μA
if you put a 100 Ohm resistor in parallel, you still have ~100 Ohm (99.99000) -> 1.5 V / 100 Ohm = 15 mA, that's a lot more current flowing (more load)
Now if the battery is full, there is enough "juice" inside to keep the voltage near the rated value.
If the battery is dead, there's no "juice" left to feed the voltmeter and the resistor with the rated 1.5 Volts :(
@@SystemX1983 thanks man that helped me sort this out better in my head. Just curious, on a 1.5V battery, what voltage would be considered dead? 1,4, 1.3....1.0? how far down?
@@FineTuned wikipedia says a really dead battery can still have 0.8 to 1.0 volts ...
in general it depends on the connected circuit, for example a tv remote can still operate with a battery that seems dead for a high power LED torch :)
Why isn't it 0 V when it is dead?
Good golly, there has got to be a simpler way to test batteries. All this test equipment you'd have to buy at your local hardware store. 🤦♂
....if it has .86 volts left it means there's still energy in it?
But it can't produce the rated voltage and so any device that would use it would say their dead?
Electricity is so strange you try to logically understand it and it never has a logical reason how things happen in it
Hello! Thanks
Can you do sn actual video instead of sliding pictures?
Do rechargeables at 1.2v have a shorter runtime given equal mAh to a 1.5v battery?
good jobs
how low should the voltage be compared to it's rating to consider it dead and not just half used or something?
What are the odds of this needing to be done on high end or lets say lithium or cell batteries? That extra step stinks to have to get together and im totally surprised I didnt know this!
Can anyone tell please how to check EV cars hybrid battery?
fok so i need a resistor
You didn't show the settings on the meter
See our multimeter tutorial video
Sir, it can be used also on car battery? Thank you..
What resistor would you use for a 9 volt battery?
Nice. How to check 3.7 Liion battety on this way ?
Thank you for the video, okay what about if the result 1.3V OR 1.4V without load?
Without load is unreliable
I have recently attached a USB Power supply to my infrequently used Multimeters, to eliminate the possibility of Battery acid leakage inside the meter.
Available in USB 5V DC to
6, 7.5, 9 or 12V Boost &
1.5, 3 or 4.5V Buck, Converters
Plug size similar to a USB Memory stick. Cost around US$5 each, on EBay.
For the small inconvenience of having to attache one of these Multimeters to a USB Charger, I don't have to worry about Battery leakage in any of these meters.
Check our new Multimeter tutorial out ➡️ th-cam.com/video/4lAyzRxsbDc/w-d-xo.html
this is great, i actually had this happen recently and now i know how to measure more accurately!
Hi everyone. I've tried this method. I bought a big bag of resistors from 1 ohms to 40k and despite following this tutorial, the voltage does not drop at all for AAA, AA and 18650 batteries. I've switched to the ohms setting on the multimeter and it does show near enough the right ohms for the resistors.
If the battery is ok, there should be no drop… Are your batteries really in bad shape?
But how do you check if you have a connected circuit?
why 100ohm
How many volts would a laptop battery be?