Tensioning Kraken Structures Deadeyes for Synthetic Standing Rigging
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 พ.ค. 2019
- I show you how I have been tensioning our dyneema standing rigging using Kraken Structures deadeyes.
Kraken Structures on Facebook - bit.ly/KrakenStructures
Nice job tying my Shroud Frapping Knot ;)
I used a halyard to tension.... So you don't need the bracing. Halyard pull direction is almost perfect as is.
Love the turks heads. One hint - when you're french whipping the tail at 10:18, lay a small loop in and whip over it. Once your tail is shorter than the whipping you've laid down, pass the tail through and pull on the loop to bury the tail into the whipping.
I'm not a sailing person, and I know nothing about what you are doing. That said, I think aesthetics, attention to detail, and pride in workmanship are more than enough reasons to choose this method over a simple turnbuckle. Just my $0.02. Billy, you continue to amaze me with your eye for detail and your patients and workmanship standards. You keep this landlubber coming back for more of your videos.
Your effort was well worth it Captain,looks amazing.
starting to like this more and more, great job
Beautiful job Billy. You'll be the first person I call if I need work done on my boat. :)
Really nice job on the camera work and explanation Billy, awesome! I use 2 to 3 feet of lashing, 80 cm to 1 meter, like you said because it has an improved throat angle for the lashings and there is less outward pull on the frapping knot in the center. Those are good reasons but most importantly it gives you the most room to absorb creep over time. I would have to do the math on the publish elongation rates for the 9 mm Dux, but you can actually figure out how much creep to expect over the next 5 to 10 years. Its a very small number of mm per year, but when you add it up over 10 years it can end up being a few inches.
Thanks so much Luke and thanks for all your useful comments and inputs here.
Nice work Billy. I am always impressed by good lashings and seizing. Just a little tip, use a Phillips screw driver for pulling tight. It slides out of the marlin knot easier without having to loosen it.
Learning a lot from you😊 thanks .
Well. so far so good.. that is tensioning the lines but how about controlling the position of the mast and tuning the rigging ?
Nice video! What is the knot on the red/grey dyneema covers on the bottom eyelids? Would really appreciate a video about how to tie them :)
why not use turnbuckles to tighten the dyneema.
Nice Job !! looks real good !! was wondering were you bought the Dyneema ? thx
If the frapping relies on friction, I'm curious why dyneema would be used for the lashing. It is notoriously poor not tying material due to its low friction coificient. Since the frapping doesn't require a high tensile strength, I wonder if some other UV resistant cordage with wouldn't work better.
Very interesting watching you actually do the tensioning. One question: with steel rigging, there are gages that one can use to accurately measure the tension are their similar gages for synthetic rigging?
There is some guidance on the Colligo website about what Loos gauge reading to use for synthetics but it really isn't a set science. There is a great deal of variation between sizes of Dyneema and the loads they are being subject to with different Rig plans on diff boats. The best thing to do (IMO) is first to tune you rig so the mast is straight and in column as you normally would. The resulting tension should never be piano-wire tight, nor should it be so slack that it bounces around. When sailing you should note the extra tension placed on the windward shroud while also noting the slack on the leeward shroud. If the leeward shroud is so slack that it is swinging around, then it is too slack. James from SV Zingaro has basically been 'tuning by eye' for about a year and finds that he has no need for a Loos gauge. Stay tuned here to Tula's Tech Talk, I am 100% sure Billy will be tracking, measuring, and commenting on the rig performance, tuning procedures, measured stretch, and other notes.
@@SteelDoesMyWill I've been thinking about this problem too and I think I have a solution (although I haven't validated it yet). I have a digital industrial scale, the kind that has a hook on either end, that can be placed in line. I expect that I could put a sample under tension, measure the load directly with the scale, and note the reading on a Loos scale.
Excellent instruction on a solid system. I don't know the forces on your boat but I was thinking that the 2mm frapping knot plus all those half hitches on the tail plus the velcro seems like overkill to secure the lashings. It looks like it takes a ton of time for each shroud. Plus for adjustment you have to untie all that and retie it just to adjust your shroud tension. I have a similar set up on my Wharram 38 but I just use the lashings and the tail to secure it at the end. It still takes 3-5 min to secure the tail with half hitches but way less than this idea. No question yours is more secure but how secure is really needed? What do you think? What does Kraken think? Just subscribed to his channel actually. Wish he had more vids.
LOL, I am working on more vids. I filmed a bunch and then never liked them after rough edit... so hard to try to publish vids while working full time plus having so many rig projects (ask Billy & Sierra how tough it is to keep up with filming and editing, and they are Pros!). The velcro on the frapping knot bitter end is dressing only, it has no mechanical binding strength. I use a 2.2 mm dyneema for the frapping knot because it ultimately creates a massively stronger frapping knot than the larger diameter lashing line itself (due to actual surface area contact). I splice an eye into either end of the frapping knot line so it is easy and fast to start and finish the frapping knot easily without additional knots. the frapping knot comes off in about 45 seconds and is completely reusable without having to cut anything. The French Hitching is a very nice way to dress the remaining tail of the lashing line, but you have a good point that it is time consuming to un-do each time you want to adjust the rig tension. I typically cut my lashing line shorter and splice an eye in the end, this way after I tension there isn't much tail to deal with and I just make an additional pass or two around the thimbles with the slack and secure it with another velcro One-Wrap. Billy has a good point that the French Hitching protects the lashings from headsail chafe.... buuuuuttt.... I wonder where the leather chafe sleeves are that I made for him? Billy? Sierra? LOL
@@SteelDoesMyWill Hey Thanks. My rig is new from the builder in Philippines. I love your deadeyes but can't see replacing mine now. Perhaps in a few years. Ill be watching your progress. Best of luck with the new biz! Hope you can quit your day job!
Interesting vid......I really like the synthetic cables ......but still don’t understand the benefit of using deadeyes & lashings over conventional turnbuckles. The extra weight for turnbuckles (at deck level) seems easily justified by their simple installation and ongoing adjustability.
you're right in that they are much simpler to tension and the weight savings is not too great. The only disadvantages COULD be that you don't have much room for error in your measuring and splicing of shrouds, the cost of new turnbuckles could be higher, and you still have the long term corrosion to consider on the turnbuckles. On a boat our size or bigger turnbuckles should definitely be a strong consideration especially if you are confident in your measuring and splicing and you know you are going to pre-stretch after splicing.
Really like your tech talks. Not sure if you want to answer this question but what size dux would you use on a 27 ft catalac with a 39 ft mast, single spreader (obviously).
I think the general consensus is to just go up one size. For us we replaced 8mm wire to 9mm cable. The consensus is to also size it for creep, not the breaking strength. Here is a chart by colligo that gives this information static1.squarespace.com/static/556621c8e4b02628a8d3bde8/t/562688a5e4b08b7d50464bfa/1445365925954/Stretch+Equavalents.pdf
thanks Billy, im headed to that link now
I have been looking into this, and I cant find a valid reason not to use a turnbuckle for tensioning. Not pure synthetic, but seems easier to me
Weight, possible expense, you have to measure and splice very precisely. A lot of people do though especially on bigger boats and it might be the right choice for you
How is it holding up after a year of usage?
Really really good. Doesn’t even need tensioning but I would do it anyway before another long trip
That's called a rolling hitch.
I am not sure which knot in the video you are referring to but there is absolutely no rolling hitch in this video whatsoever
@@TulasTechTalk Actually there is a rolling hitch and I saw you doing it on this video. It's where you wrap the line around another link of that same line that is coming from the opposite direction. You have to do two wraps around it but you did three which is OK I guess. I've only ever needed to do two. It's basically a slip knot if you slide it yourself or if the line is slippery or if the load is so great that it will slip on its own. I use it all the time. It's a great knot to use all the time.
OK, I just looked up what a rolling hitch is and they have listed differently than what I thought it was. It's basically the same thing but what I do is tie a knot around one thing and then take the bitter end and run it through another point. Then I take what's left of that line and wrap it around that part of the line that is between the first two points and the way I do that is doing what you did in the video but only two times. That's what I've always known as a rolling hitch. I guess it's called something different from what I was told. Sorry for the confusion.