I made a Kegerator a while back, from a refrigerator and have a suggestion. It does cost a little more, but for running wires it works great. If you get a replacement gasket (rubber part that seals the door) you can remove the gasket from the door and put the new one on the frame of the refrigerator, instead. You can then run the wires behind the gasket and use a little silicone caulk around them, to make sure there are no leaks. You can also make "nicks" in the back of the gasket (this works better) for the wires and then seal with the caulk. It even worked for my air lines for my CO2 so I didn't have to keep my tank inside and didn't have to put holes, in possibly the wrong areas. You can try to remove the old gasket and move it to the frame, regluing it, but if you mess up, you will just have to get a new one anyway.
What a fantastic tutorial! I have been flirting around the edges of this "hobby" by experimenting with curing pork loins, this tutorial gives me the information I need to take into account when making a decision on how far into this I want to go. Thank You!
this is one of the best descriptions and advice I have seen. I have been looking at going down this path and this has given me the confidence to go ahead. plus i already have the inkbirds I need and can reallocate now. awesome bru!
Thank you for watching. I don't think moving back to SA is an option now. Kids are well settled here...and I am loving being in Europe...love the history and travel options....and of course MEAT!
Best description I’ve seen on TH-cam, super clear and well explained!!! Just have a quick question, can you please share a diagram of the white box set up? Thanks for your time and the patience you had putting this video together for us!!!!
A brand new single door unit- delivered is to the house in the USA 26cubic ft, is $3,000USD And a double door unit is $4400 USD. they will run for 15-20 years without problems! True brand units!
100%, but not many home curers can afford $ 3,000.00 let alone $ 4,400.00. I have been curing in maturing chambers like I have demonstrated here for near on 20 years with fantastic success.
great information Gil, thanks for your time. Q: if you would use a dehumidifier, it will have to be a desiccating one due to the low temperature inside the chamber; that would add significant price to the system. thanks,
That isn’t a question. Also no, desiccants are not crazy expensive. You can purchase chemical desiccants which sit in a container at the bottom of the curing chamber.
Wonderfull video! The best so far. I am in the fase of creating a cellar curing chamber in Denmark. I am my self a doctor. How do you avoid fungus growing on your meat without ventilation?
I found it very useful, thank you. I am in the process of setting up my chamber and i have a couple of questions if I may? 1 does the fridge built in thermostat conflict with the controller in any way and two I am thinking I might need to add some sort of heat as we just had two weeks of -11 where I am or I don't do any curing in winter as my chamber will be in a unheated detached garage.
Just a suggestion on your heating device…..use a nursery heating mat. Inexpensive and doesn’t put out any light that will cause deterioration in your meat. they are fairly low wattage which works really well as you won’t overshoot your temps.
I appreciate your presentations, and the clear, calm style employed. Thank you. I have a question please. I’m beginning to set up a chamber. I’ve procured a standard single door bev display fridge. There is no fan in it. It’s just a refrigerated box. Also: Inkbird temp controller, Inkbird humidity controller, ultrasonic humidifier 2.6l, a small dehumidifier (which may or may not be used; I’ll test the box in action first). I believe you mentioned the chamber cannot be used to do both fermented and other types of cured meats. My question is, can you elucidate this point a little bit more please? I’m an experienced chef, but a novice regarding this level of meat curing/cheese curing. Thank you.
Hi - apologies for taking this long to respond. I must have missed your question. It is not so much that you cannot use the chamber as a fermenting chamber and a maturing chamber...you can, however, it becomes difficult to manage because if for example you have a bunch of meats maturing in the chamber and now you want to add some more sausage, then you will have to remove the meats already in there to create the correct climate for the fermenting - remember, fermenting is at a higher humidity than maturing - at least 10% difference and your temperature should also be higher, 18C+ as opposed to 12 or 13C. But if you are only doing one cure at a time then by all means it will be easy to manage.
Thank you for this very informative video. I'm looking at using a single door chiller to start me off on this journey. I noticed that these chillers have fans at the top -for air cooling. Will the fans create any issues on curing like meat prematurely drying? I also found Inkbird's temp and humidity controller in one ITC 608T? Will that do too?
thank you for your kind comment. Yes, the fan may interfere if the air flows directly over the meat. I do not like having fans in a maturing chamber because the airflow causes the outer layer of the meat to dry out quicker, potentially causing case hardening. I suggest hanging some paper strips where you would be hanging...and if they are moving, you may have a problem. If this is the case, you could try disconnecting the fan - but the problem with a cooler like this is that the fan is usually necessary to move the cool air around, so it will not work well if the fan is disconnected. Try that...but if it is not possible, you may need to create some faring to redirect the air. The Inkbird you suggest is similar to the SHT-2000 that I use. I do like having a combination controller because that way, you have fewer bulky items around your chamber and also fewer wires having to be directed into your chamber...so in short...yes the ITC608T should be perfect!
@@curesmithnet wow! I did not expect a quick response. Thanks for your insights and confirmation on the 608 and effect of the fan on curing. I was able to find a video on the fix for the fan. Apparently connecting a smaller fan with controls and in reverse may help redirect and control the air flow... and so we'll try and see how we can adapt the concept. I am also consulting an Engineer friend on the possibility to reverse the wiring and ad fan controls so that the fan blows upward instead of downward -in the least disturbing manner. Your work here is an inspiration hope you can post more how to videos on curing as they are easy to understand. TGIF!
@@judetiongco6339 Anytime, would you mind sharing that video of the fan, as I get asked this question a lot of times, and this may be worth sharing with other curesmiths. Yes, I am certainly starting to get more active here. I am finishing my book on curing, and we are developing an 8-day course, which will be delivered in Parma, Italy, in September 2025! I am now working up to try and post something daily...check out the reels we have posted over the last few days :). Anyway, keep me posted as to how you get along with your curing chamber...
Hello mate, and thank you for the great video. I am building a curing chamber myself and I have a struggle with a high humidity when the compressor is off, it goes to 95% I watched your video a couple of times but I don't understand how you lower your humidity without a dehumidifier. If humidity goes above 72.2% the compressor is switched on is that it? But if so wouldn't this lower the temperature below 12 degrees?
HI there. Thanks for the complement! So I have controllers on both the compressor/ fridge as well as the humidifier. It does sometimes take a bit of tweaking to get this right...The controller controlling the fridge turns the fridge off when it hits 12C....actually it is a little before so say 12.5C because it will continue to cool down. I don't really mind if it goes lower...but I don't want it to go lower than 8C. So if it goes below 12 for a couple of minutes that is fine. The humidifier is set to turn on when the humidity drops below 71% (odd)...it will continue to drop until there is enough humidity in the chamber again in order to start raising it. So what I am trying to do here is to ensure that it does not go below 65%. But here comes the thing. My hunidifyer is set to switch off when the humidity reaches around 72%...because the moisture in the air will continue to raise the humidity. So what most people do is set their cutoff at 75%...it can then take the humidity up over 80% quite quickly. It is best to get a data logger (Govee) and test test test. On the humidifier score, it is literally a play between 1 and 2 percent. In other words, I am not turning the humidifier on when it reaches 65% because it is still going to drop for some time...and I do not turn the humidifier off when it reaches 75% because it is going to go up still. You also need to play with this when the chamber is full of meat because that adds additional moisture from the meat. The best is to log all the data until you get to a sweet spit. That saying there are instance where these tweaks do not help and you may have to introduce a dehumidifier. If this is necessary then it is important to add it. All I am saying in the video is that I want to try and be as uncomplicated as possible and also ensure that my chamber is not cluttered. You are welcome to email me at info@curesmith.net...let's try and resolve your problem.
@@curesmithnet Thank you for your response and detailed explanation. I'm doing some testing for now and collecting data, at the moment I am controlling the fridge only by humidity and keeping it between 68-80% it is round 5min working & 30min not and the temperature is not an issue it stays between 10-13 degrees. I have something in mind if you are interested in my progress I will keep you up to date by email. Thanks once again and cheers.
Most hardware stores will have humidifiers with an analogue switch, or search on the internet...www.google.com/search?q=humidifier+with+analogue+switch&oq=humidifier+with+analogue+switch&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOdIBCTEyMTUxajBqMagCALACAA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
Hello, would you please explain the pros and cons of UVC lights in a chamber. Would it not kill the good bacteria with the bad? Good for curing steak but not salami? Thank you for the videos and sharing your knowledge.
You should NEVER have UV lights in your chamber. Firstly, yes, it will kill ALL bacteria, including the good, but even worse is that it will make the fat in your meat rancid.
In Buenos Aires, Argentina, a high percentage of ambient humidity predominates. In case of high humidity in the drying chamber.... Would opening the drink fridge (1 door) once a day be enough? Would a dehumidifier be enough? And what features should a dehumidifier have for a 420 liter chamber? Thanks in advance !
Hello there ! A great video ! I am a out to build my first chamber(controllers and all) but due to no too much space I think of buying 85L wine cooler ( H 84.5cm ; W49 ; D 53.5 ) Do you think tye size will be good enough for a few pieces of meat . Tha k you
Hi Victor! Fantastic! One word of advice...I would suggest you rather go for a smaller refrigerator (bar fridge) rather than a wine cooler. Wine coolers seem to generate a lot of humidity, and that in itself causes a number of problems. Besides, they are also a lot more expensive than normal refrigerators. Just remember to buy a refrigerator that is ANTI-FROST.
How much power does a diy curing chamber use? I see an ultra sonic humidifier on amazon that uses 22 watts. Is that 24/7 or only as needed? Would an upright freezer be fairly efficient? I figure the higher temps would really cut down on power use. I'm off grid and looking into cured meats, I raise pigs.
Reaching out to any and all. I am setting up a small, new frost free frig. Here in the US the ones we buy have a max temp of 45 degrees, about 7.5 C. I just got my Ink bird for the temp control. should I set the frig temp to it's highest temp, let the ink Bird shut that off at 45 then adding a soft heater to raise/maintain the avg temp to 55 degrees F 13-15 C? Thank You for any responses.
your fridge temp setting won’t make any difference as the Inkbird will do all the on/off control. You might will need to disconnect the fridge thermostat as it is tied into the compressor start/stop control and may prevent compressor operation - at least on some models. If you unplug the thermostat you’ll likely need to add a jumper to reconnect the wires that are left open after pulling the plug………leaving that circuit open would not allow the compressor to start. Try just plugging the fridge into your inkbird first and see if it works without messing with the thermostat. If not you’ll need to bypass it (thermostat). You should have an electric schematic with your fridge and can trace how the controls work. Regarding heating source I recommend a small nursery heating mat. They don’t put out light that is detrimental to the meat and are low watts so you are less likely to overshoot temps.
Hi Gil. Do you mind explaining how you put the cables through the fridge door - do you cut the door insulation and put the piece of foam in the cut opening, or do you only tape the foam on top of the cables, without cutting the door insulation? Putting the cables through the door - have you noticed lot of air to escape through the opening or is the foam sufficient to create an air seal?
Hi, No I did not cut anything. I just pass it through. The magnetic strip is flexible enough to allow for the cables to pass through. I do not like cutting through any parts, but you could...as long as you ensure that there are no places where insects can get through.
New refrigerators with frost free sistem have a lot of cooling pipes in the lateral walls...how can we know were to drill to not drill on those pipes? 🤔
@@ardeleansorin7476 Ardelean, I have destroyed two refrigerators in the past, so now I just steer clear of drilling through them. May I ask why you want to drill through the wall?
HI, no, in my opinion, you should never require a dehumidifier, especially if it is a no-frost refrigerator. BUT there are times and certain conditions that require a dehumidifier - for example, if your ambient humidity is above 80% then it is likely you will require a dehumidifier.
I just started to cure meats, my chamber on average is around 12 celsius. Which is still in the temperature range. However, i see other instructions and most are set at around 2 to 3 degrees celsius. Can you advise on the temperature difference? Thank you
Hi there. Anything below 10C is too low. This is going to slow down the process significantly, and will also effect the quality of the meat. Best temperature range is between 12-16C. I try keep mine between 12-13C as I find this the optimal temperature range. Happy to help where I can. Good luck on your journey.
I lived in an environment by the ocean(Caribbean) with an average of 85 f degree and about 90% humidity. Indoor without AC it’s about 90 to 95f degree. Any recommendations? My other question is that you recommend covering your glass doors but I have seen commercial equipment for curing display with glass doors. Why is that?
Oh my goodness..I am so sorry...I seemed to have missed this comment from you - I sincerely apologise!. Yes, in conditions like that you will more than likely have to introduce a dehumidifier. You can contact me at info@curesmith.net to see if I can assist you. On the glass door...yep, I have seen many commercial agers with glass doors. These are usually meat aging machines for aging steaks etc. I have rarely seen commercially built maturing chambers that have glass doors. I must say that I find it odd when meat aging machines have glass doors, because the fat on the meat goes rancid. I have been in fancy steakhouses where they have these machines displaying the aging meat...looks really cool...but as soon as I taste the meat I can taste the rancidity. Most people don't know this and they think that it is just the meat that is "funky". Age/ Mature the meat in the dark!
Hi there. You really do not need to go up by much more...but yes, that is a bit low. All that happens at this lower temp is that it takes a bit longer for the process. But if you do want to take it a bit higher, then a heat lamp would be sufficient? I would not use normal lightbulbs as you will more than likely get rancidity from the light.
frig i cant find a mioni fridge thats frost free and no freezer built in. if they are frost free, they got a freezer and if they dont got a freezer, they have the back plate thing. is there a way to just turn off the freezer part?
Hi, I am sorry, but I am not really an electrician. Best is to speak to a fridge specialist. There must be a way to disconnect the thermostat...or to reset it so that it is the same as the fridge part.
Yep - here where I am it is also 220v...just make sure when you order it you select the right one, because most sites offer EU and US...pick EU...also normal 2 point plug.
Any brand is ok. BUT, make sure that if you are building a bespoke maturing chamber you get a single door (so it is NOT split into a refrigerator and freezer) - and they should be NO-FROST refrigerators.
Hello friend, i found one like u have in video ,, comercial fridge with double door, but minimum temp are 2+ and maximum 10+, but if we need 16 do u think that is problem?
Hello, i have a mini fridge and got both ink birds controllers, my temperature is well managed but i am very scared for the humidity. I need to hang a good piece of meat in there and it keeps dropping to 36% and up to 90% with an average humdity of 74%, the the drop from 90 to 36 is on a 10 minutes period and it slowly gets back to 80% in 20 mins, but yes, the time between both peaks (36%) is always ~1h. Is this a big problem? Is the important thing that the average on an hour ~75%?
Sorry for only responding now - I clearly missed this comment - apologies. YES, such a big drop is not ideal, however, your average is good at 74%. Can you send me your HIGH/LOW temp and HIGH/ LOW humidity to my email, gilfer@preservepigs.com?
@@curesmithnet Hello, turns out it's because of how the water in the air freezes and gets removed from the fridge. I added a humidifier and a dehumidifier, now, it's always between 70% and 80%.
@@cupidonsauce1208 - cool, yeah you have a fridge with a freezer plate at the back - same as the one I am using in the video. Makes it a bit more challenging!
Hi my fridge isnt frost free like yours so it drips down the back. Im using the inkbird temp and humidity controlers.. i want to keep my chamber at 16c and between 58-62% humidity what setting should i use? So far the temp controler is at 15.5 with a 1c difference up and down and but still goes from 14-17c that i can live with.. i have a dehumidifier plugged into the humidity controller set to 55%rh with a 2% up and down but it spends most the time between 70-80%rh
Hi, the fridge I use is also not frost free and drips along the back. May I ask why you are looking at 16c and a humidity of 58-62%. For setting up the maturing chamber as a standard chamber that can mature most meats it is best to get your temperature down to 12-13C and your humidity is good at 70-80% - best if it averages out at 75%.
@@martink4205 Aaah, ok. It does take a bit to play around and get your settings right. I would set the Inkbird at 16.5 with a 1c difference. Start there. The problem is you will never get a stable temperature as it will ebb and flow as the motor comes on and off. But you need to just play...you may find that your settings on the ink bird do not correspond perfectly with the temperature inside the chamber. The same goes for the humidity. Remember, with the water dripping down the back, you are going to get a humidity issue, and because you are wanting a higher than usual temp, it will mean more condensation. It may be worthwhile to get a frost-free fridge in your instance.
Well, you do want mould - mould plays an important role in making many cured meats. 60% is on the low side for a generalist maturing chamber. Prosciutto and larger cuts can indeed do with lower humidity, even as low as 55%, but you need higher humidity for dry-cured sausages and smaller whole-muscle cures. Go to is +65%...in my experience, 75% is a good humidity to aim for. You want Nalgiovense (or similar penicillin moulds), which plays a variety of roles in the process...above 80%, and you start getting some interesting and unwanted moulds.
Nope - my door hinges are just fine...and you know what - I actually drive on the right side of the road - but despite all that, the meat still tastes great ;)
I made a Kegerator a while back, from a refrigerator and have a suggestion. It does cost a little more, but for running wires it works great. If you get a replacement gasket (rubber part that seals the door) you can remove the gasket from the door and put the new one on the frame of the refrigerator, instead. You can then run the wires behind the gasket and use a little silicone caulk around them, to make sure there are no leaks. You can also make "nicks" in the back of the gasket (this works better) for the wires and then seal with the caulk. It even worked for my air lines for my CO2 so I didn't have to keep my tank inside and didn't have to put holes, in possibly the wrong areas. You can try to remove the old gasket and move it to the frame, regluing it, but if you mess up, you will just have to get a new one anyway.
Thank you for your comment. That is an excellent idea. I am due to build a new chamber and will definitely do it this way!
What a fantastic tutorial!
I have been flirting around the edges of this "hobby" by experimenting with curing pork loins, this tutorial gives me the information I need to take into account when making a decision on how far into this I want to go. Thank You!
Good lukc...and PLEASE keep me updated as to your progress.
this is one of the best descriptions and advice I have seen. I have been looking at going down this path and this has given me the confidence to go ahead. plus i already have the inkbirds I need and can reallocate now. awesome bru!
Thank you kindly!
Great stuff.
I am noticing a South African accent, hopefully with the movement in the Cape, you might to get to move back home some day soon.
Thank you for watching. I don't think moving back to SA is an option now. Kids are well settled here...and I am loving being in Europe...love the history and travel options....and of course MEAT!
Best description I’ve seen on TH-cam, super clear and well explained!!! Just have a quick question, can you please share a diagram of the white box set up? Thanks for your time and the patience you had putting this video together for us!!!!
Apologies for only responding now...I missed this comment. Send me an email to gilfer@preservepigs.com and I will send you a diagram.
Excellent tutorial! Cred!
Thank you!
Fantastic , very kind to take the time to share ,
Thank you for a very informative video.
A brand new single door unit-
delivered is to the house in the USA 26cubic ft, is $3,000USD And a double door unit is $4400 USD. they will run for 15-20 years without problems! True brand units!
100%, but not many home curers can afford $ 3,000.00 let alone $ 4,400.00. I have been curing in maturing chambers like I have demonstrated here for near on 20 years with fantastic success.
Ahhhh no music! Thank you!!!! :)
that was the first video I made...was still learning...am still learning :)
great information Gil, thanks for your time. Q: if you would use a dehumidifier, it will have to be a desiccating one due to the low temperature inside the chamber; that would add significant price to the system. thanks,
That isn’t a question. Also no, desiccants are not crazy expensive. You can purchase chemical desiccants which sit in a container at the bottom of the curing chamber.
Wonderfull video! The best so far. I am in the fase of creating a cellar curing chamber in Denmark. I am my self a doctor. How do you avoid fungus growing on your meat without ventilation?
Thank you for your comments. May I ask why you do not want the mould?
@@gilferreira4382 I would be ok with healthy mould.. Where do you get the white mould?
I found it very useful, thank you. I am in the process of setting up my chamber and i have a couple of questions if I may? 1 does the fridge built in thermostat conflict with the controller in any way and two I am thinking I might need to add some sort of heat as we just had two weeks of -11 where I am or I don't do any curing in winter as my chamber will be in a unheated detached garage.
Just a suggestion on your heating device…..use a nursery heating mat. Inexpensive and doesn’t put out any light that will cause deterioration in your meat. they are fairly low wattage which works really well as you won’t overshoot your temps.
I appreciate your presentations, and the clear, calm style employed. Thank you. I have a question please.
I’m beginning to set up a chamber. I’ve procured a standard single door bev display fridge. There is no fan in it. It’s just a refrigerated box.
Also: Inkbird temp controller, Inkbird humidity controller, ultrasonic humidifier 2.6l, a small dehumidifier (which may or may not be used; I’ll test the box in action first).
I believe you mentioned the chamber cannot be used to do both fermented and other types of cured meats. My question is, can you elucidate this point a little bit more please?
I’m an experienced chef, but a novice regarding this level of meat curing/cheese curing.
Thank you.
Hi - apologies for taking this long to respond. I must have missed your question. It is not so much that you cannot use the chamber as a fermenting chamber and a maturing chamber...you can, however, it becomes difficult to manage because if for example you have a bunch of meats maturing in the chamber and now you want to add some more sausage, then you will have to remove the meats already in there to create the correct climate for the fermenting - remember, fermenting is at a higher humidity than maturing - at least 10% difference and your temperature should also be higher, 18C+ as opposed to 12 or 13C. But if you are only doing one cure at a time then by all means it will be easy to manage.
@@curesmithnet thank you. I hope all’s well for you.
Thank you for this very informative video. I'm looking at using a single door chiller to start me off on this journey. I noticed that these chillers have fans at the top -for air cooling. Will the fans create any issues on curing like meat prematurely drying? I also found Inkbird's temp and humidity controller in one ITC 608T? Will that do too?
thank you for your kind comment. Yes, the fan may interfere if the air flows directly over the meat. I do not like having fans in a maturing chamber because the airflow causes the outer layer of the meat to dry out quicker, potentially causing case hardening. I suggest hanging some paper strips where you would be hanging...and if they are moving, you may have a problem. If this is the case, you could try disconnecting the fan - but the problem with a cooler like this is that the fan is usually necessary to move the cool air around, so it will not work well if the fan is disconnected. Try that...but if it is not possible, you may need to create some faring to redirect the air. The Inkbird you suggest is similar to the SHT-2000 that I use. I do like having a combination controller because that way, you have fewer bulky items around your chamber and also fewer wires having to be directed into your chamber...so in short...yes the ITC608T should be perfect!
@@curesmithnet wow! I did not expect a quick response. Thanks for your insights and confirmation on the 608 and effect of the fan on curing. I was able to find a video on the fix for the fan. Apparently connecting a smaller fan with controls and in reverse may help redirect and control the air flow... and so we'll try and see how we can adapt the concept. I am also consulting an Engineer friend on the possibility to reverse the wiring and ad fan controls so that the fan blows upward instead of downward -in the least disturbing manner.
Your work here is an inspiration hope you can post more how to videos on curing as they are easy to understand. TGIF!
@@judetiongco6339 Anytime, would you mind sharing that video of the fan, as I get asked this question a lot of times, and this may be worth sharing with other curesmiths. Yes, I am certainly starting to get more active here. I am finishing my book on curing, and we are developing an 8-day course, which will be delivered in Parma, Italy, in September 2025! I am now working up to try and post something daily...check out the reels we have posted over the last few days :). Anyway, keep me posted as to how you get along with your curing chamber...
best video.good job!
Hello mate, and thank you for the great video. I am building a curing chamber myself and I have a struggle with a high humidity when the compressor is off, it goes to 95% I watched your video a couple of times but I don't understand how you lower your humidity without a dehumidifier. If humidity goes above 72.2% the compressor is switched on is that it? But if so wouldn't this lower the temperature below 12 degrees?
HI there. Thanks for the complement! So I have controllers on both the compressor/ fridge as well as the humidifier. It does sometimes take a bit of tweaking to get this right...The controller controlling the fridge turns the fridge off when it hits 12C....actually it is a little before so say 12.5C because it will continue to cool down. I don't really mind if it goes lower...but I don't want it to go lower than 8C. So if it goes below 12 for a couple of minutes that is fine.
The humidifier is set to turn on when the humidity drops below 71% (odd)...it will continue to drop until there is enough humidity in the chamber again in order to start raising it. So what I am trying to do here is to ensure that it does not go below 65%.
But here comes the thing. My hunidifyer is set to switch off when the humidity reaches around 72%...because the moisture in the air will continue to raise the humidity. So what most people do is set their cutoff at 75%...it can then take the humidity up over 80% quite quickly.
It is best to get a data logger (Govee) and test test test. On the humidifier score, it is literally a play between 1 and 2 percent. In other words, I am not turning the humidifier on when it reaches 65% because it is still going to drop for some time...and I do not turn the humidifier off when it reaches 75% because it is going to go up still.
You also need to play with this when the chamber is full of meat because that adds additional moisture from the meat. The best is to log all the data until you get to a sweet spit.
That saying there are instance where these tweaks do not help and you may have to introduce a dehumidifier. If this is necessary then it is important to add it. All I am saying in the video is that I want to try and be as uncomplicated as possible and also ensure that my chamber is not cluttered. You are welcome to email me at info@curesmith.net...let's try and resolve your problem.
@@curesmithnet Thank you for your response and detailed explanation. I'm doing some testing for now and collecting data, at the moment I am controlling the fridge only by humidity and keeping it between 68-80% it is round 5min working & 30min not and the temperature is not an issue it stays between 10-13 degrees. I have something in mind if you are interested in my progress I will keep you up to date by email. Thanks once again and cheers.
Great video, but if i use the inkbird will i have to make that box ?
No, because Inkbird is already cased.
I having hard time to find an humidifier analog, with no switch off. What model do you show? Thanks for share your skills and knowledge.
Most hardware stores will have humidifiers with an analogue switch, or search on the internet...www.google.com/search?q=humidifier+with+analogue+switch&oq=humidifier+with+analogue+switch&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOdIBCTEyMTUxajBqMagCALACAA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
Hello, would you please explain the pros and cons of UVC lights in a chamber. Would it not kill the good bacteria with the bad? Good for curing steak but not salami? Thank you for the videos and sharing your knowledge.
Yes, you should not have UVC lamps inside the chamber in my opinion.
You should NEVER have UV lights in your chamber. Firstly, yes, it will kill ALL bacteria, including the good, but even worse is that it will make the fat in your meat rancid.
You should nit have a UV lamp because UV light causes meat (particularly fat) to go rancid - so no UV light should be in your curing chamber.
In Buenos Aires, Argentina, a high percentage of ambient humidity predominates.
In case of high humidity in the drying chamber....
Would opening the drink fridge (1 door) once a day be enough?
Would a dehumidifier be enough? And what features should a dehumidifier have for a 420 liter chamber?
Thanks in advance !
Hello there ! A great video ! I am a out to build my first chamber(controllers and all) but due to no too much space I think of buying 85L wine cooler ( H 84.5cm ; W49 ; D 53.5 ) Do you think tye size will be good enough for a few pieces of meat . Tha k you
Hi Victor! Fantastic! One word of advice...I would suggest you rather go for a smaller refrigerator (bar fridge) rather than a wine cooler. Wine coolers seem to generate a lot of humidity, and that in itself causes a number of problems. Besides, they are also a lot more expensive than normal refrigerators. Just remember to buy a refrigerator that is ANTI-FROST.
Thank you :)
How much power does a diy curing chamber use?
I see an ultra sonic humidifier on amazon that uses 22 watts. Is that 24/7 or only as needed? Would an upright freezer be fairly efficient? I figure the higher temps would really cut down on power use. I'm off grid and looking into cured meats, I raise pigs.
Reaching out to any and all. I am setting up a small, new frost free frig. Here in the US the ones we buy have a max temp of 45 degrees, about 7.5 C. I just got my Ink bird for the temp control. should I set the frig temp to it's highest temp, let the ink Bird shut that off at 45 then adding a soft heater to raise/maintain the avg temp to 55 degrees F 13-15 C? Thank You for any responses.
your fridge temp setting won’t make any difference as the Inkbird will do all the on/off control. You might will need to disconnect the fridge thermostat as it is tied into the compressor start/stop control and may prevent compressor operation - at least on some models. If you unplug the thermostat you’ll likely need to add a jumper to reconnect the wires that are left open after pulling the plug………leaving that circuit open would not allow the compressor to start. Try just plugging the fridge into your inkbird first and see if it works without messing with the thermostat. If not you’ll need to bypass it (thermostat). You should have an electric schematic with your fridge and can trace how the controls work.
Regarding heating source I recommend a small nursery heating mat. They don’t put out light that is detrimental to the meat and are low watts so you are less likely to overshoot temps.
Hi Gil. Do you mind explaining how you put the cables through the fridge door - do you cut the door insulation and put the piece of foam in the cut opening, or do you only tape the foam on top of the cables, without cutting the door insulation? Putting the cables through the door - have you noticed lot of air to escape through the opening or is the foam sufficient to create an air seal?
Hi, No I did not cut anything. I just pass it through. The magnetic strip is flexible enough to allow for the cables to pass through. I do not like cutting through any parts, but you could...as long as you ensure that there are no places where insects can get through.
New refrigerators with frost free sistem have a lot of cooling pipes in the lateral walls...how can we know were to drill to not drill on those pipes? 🤔
Hi, you are right, and that is exactly why I suggest you do not drill through the side panels. There is no reason to.
@@gilferreira4382 so all refrigerators with static cooling systems are ok for drilling side panels...right?
@@ardeleansorin7476 Ardelean, I have destroyed two refrigerators in the past, so now I just steer clear of drilling through them. May I ask why you want to drill through the wall?
@@gilferreira4382 for serzors, humidifier and dehumidifier.....
Looks up parts diagram for your model it will show we're everything is 😁
What does light do and why can't it get into the chamber?
Light causes fat to go rancid.
If I have a no frost refrigerator, I need a dehumidifier to or the refrigerator is enough?
HI, no, in my opinion, you should never require a dehumidifier, especially if it is a no-frost refrigerator. BUT there are times and certain conditions that require a dehumidifier - for example, if your ambient humidity is above 80% then it is likely you will require a dehumidifier.
Sry bcs i ask u to much but i have one more question, what do u think about this fridge i found this cheap.
REFRIGATOR ,,ACCONA,,
I am sorry when I google Accona it give me many options...please share a link for me to take a look at.
when you open your fridge for air circulation, how long you usually have it opened?
Hi - I do not open the fridge for longer than 2-3 minutes.
I just started to cure meats, my chamber on average is around 12 celsius. Which is still in the temperature range.
However, i see other instructions and most are set at around 2 to 3 degrees celsius.
Can you advise on the temperature difference?
Thank you
Hi there. Anything below 10C is too low. This is going to slow down the process significantly, and will also effect the quality of the meat. Best temperature range is between 12-16C. I try keep mine between 12-13C as I find this the optimal temperature range. Happy to help where I can. Good luck on your journey.
What about using uv light to kill microbes?
You want microbes...it is part of the process. If you add UV light you will make the fat go rancid. There should be no light in the chamber.
I lived in an environment by the ocean(Caribbean) with an average of 85 f degree and about 90% humidity. Indoor without AC it’s about 90 to 95f degree. Any recommendations?
My other question is that you recommend covering your glass doors but I have seen commercial equipment for curing display with glass doors. Why is that?
Oh my goodness..I am so sorry...I seemed to have missed this comment from you - I sincerely apologise!. Yes, in conditions like that you will more than likely have to introduce a dehumidifier. You can contact me at info@curesmith.net to see if I can assist you.
On the glass door...yep, I have seen many commercial agers with glass doors. These are usually meat aging machines for aging steaks etc. I have rarely seen commercially built maturing chambers that have glass doors. I must say that I find it odd when meat aging machines have glass doors, because the fat on the meat goes rancid. I have been in fancy steakhouses where they have these machines displaying the aging meat...looks really cool...but as soon as I taste the meat I can taste the rancidity. Most people don't know this and they think that it is just the meat that is "funky". Age/ Mature the meat in the dark!
How do I raise my chamber temp. My shop is 6 to 9 degrees C. average during the winter months. Heat lamp of some type? lightbulb ? thanks
Hi there. You really do not need to go up by much more...but yes, that is a bit low. All that happens at this lower temp is that it takes a bit longer for the process. But if you do want to take it a bit higher, then a heat lamp would be sufficient? I would not use normal lightbulbs as you will more than likely get rancidity from the light.
frig i cant find a mioni fridge thats frost free and no freezer built in. if they are frost free, they got a freezer and if they dont got a freezer, they have the back plate thing. is there a way to just turn off the freezer part?
Hi, I am sorry, but I am not really an electrician. Best is to speak to a fridge specialist. There must be a way to disconnect the thermostat...or to reset it so that it is the same as the fridge part.
Is the STH controller compatible for 220v in South Africa?
Yep - here where I am it is also 220v...just make sure when you order it you select the right one, because most sites offer EU and US...pick EU...also normal 2 point plug.
Thanks so much.@@curesmithnet
Hello, do you recommend model of a new refrigerator that’s optimal to convert to curing chamber?
Any brand is ok. BUT, make sure that if you are building a bespoke maturing chamber you get a single door (so it is NOT split into a refrigerator and freezer) - and they should be NO-FROST refrigerators.
Hello friend, i found one like u have in video ,, comercial fridge with double door, but minimum temp are 2+ and maximum 10+, but if we need 16 do u think that is problem?
Hi, yes, you need to just get temperature and humidity controllers as I explain in the video.
Hy I try to access the website but apprently is impossible to create a new account ; is the website still active ?
I am busy redoing the website...sorry...if you send me your email I will let you know as soon as it is up and running again.
Hello, i have a mini fridge and got both ink birds controllers, my temperature is well managed but i am very scared for the humidity. I need to hang a good piece of meat in there and it keeps dropping to 36% and up to 90% with an average humdity of 74%, the the drop from 90 to 36 is on a 10 minutes period and it slowly gets back to 80% in 20 mins, but yes, the time between both peaks (36%) is always ~1h.
Is this a big problem? Is the important thing that the average on an hour ~75%?
Sorry for only responding now - I clearly missed this comment - apologies. YES, such a big drop is not ideal, however, your average is good at 74%. Can you send me your HIGH/LOW temp and HIGH/ LOW humidity to my email, gilfer@preservepigs.com?
@@curesmithnet Hello, turns out it's because of how the water in the air freezes and gets removed from the fridge. I added a humidifier and a dehumidifier, now, it's always between 70% and 80%.
@@cupidonsauce1208 - cool, yeah you have a fridge with a freezer plate at the back - same as the one I am using in the video. Makes it a bit more challenging!
@@curesmithnet exactly but it it works! I just sliced my Bresaola this morning and it turned out great.
Hi my fridge isnt frost free like yours so it drips down the back. Im using the inkbird temp and humidity controlers.. i want to keep my chamber at 16c and between 58-62% humidity what setting should i use? So far the temp controler is at 15.5 with a 1c difference up and down and but still goes from 14-17c that i can live with.. i have a dehumidifier plugged into the humidity controller set to 55%rh with a 2% up and down but it spends most the time between 70-80%rh
Hi, the fridge I use is also not frost free and drips along the back. May I ask why you are looking at 16c and a humidity of 58-62%. For setting up the maturing chamber as a standard chamber that can mature most meats it is best to get your temperature down to 12-13C and your humidity is good at 70-80% - best if it averages out at 75%.
@@curesmithnet im not using it for meat i just saw the same equipment and thought youd be able to help
@@martink4205 Aaah, ok. It does take a bit to play around and get your settings right. I would set the Inkbird at 16.5 with a 1c difference. Start there. The problem is you will never get a stable temperature as it will ebb and flow as the motor comes on and off. But you need to just play...you may find that your settings on the ink bird do not correspond perfectly with the temperature inside the chamber. The same goes for the humidity. Remember, with the water dripping down the back, you are going to get a humidity issue, and because you are wanting a higher than usual temp, it will mean more condensation. It may be worthwhile to get a frost-free fridge in your instance.
60% humidity works well so u dont get molds u dont want!!
Well, you do want mould - mould plays an important role in making many cured meats. 60% is on the low side for a generalist maturing chamber. Prosciutto and larger cuts can indeed do with lower humidity, even as low as 55%, but you need higher humidity for dry-cured sausages and smaller whole-muscle cures. Go to is +65%...in my experience, 75% is a good humidity to aim for. You want Nalgiovense (or similar penicillin moulds), which plays a variety of roles in the process...above 80%, and you start getting some interesting and unwanted moulds.
for gods sakes man...invert them door hinges! Oh Great...don't me you drive on the left side of the road too? Haha!
Nope - my door hinges are just fine...and you know what - I actually drive on the right side of the road - but despite all that, the meat still tastes great ;)