I have a slight problem, I have all the tools necessary to do the job except for the large cable tie. Can I perform this job without using the cable tie on my head?
I have a set of different size cable ties. What width tie should I use and what torque should it be tightened to? Also cheers mate very helpful guide with no random anecdotes or vehicle specific instructions.
Great video! Thank you so much for mentioning that the self adjuster is supposed to work in reverse. I did a little more research and the XJ adjusts when you brake HARD in reverse, which never happens. I went out and did it 6 times in my driveway and I went from no rear brakes at all to perfect without having to lift a tool!
Great video dude, didn't go too good the first time for me.then i figured out why,so i went to the store and bought the cable tie for my head, and it was so easy the 2nd time around. didn't get the same colour though,but a green one worked fine. thanks dude !!
Awesome video Matt! Spent the entire day changing the shoes and drums but was wondering about the initial adjustment. I never noticed the little rubber plug. Everything you explain about the Jeep has helped me greatly over the last several years. Thanks for your efforts.
Thank you SO much. I've had my car in the air for almost a week because I accidentally started a brake job with my parking brake on. I had no idea how to loosen it enough to get rotors on it. Thank you, thank you, thank you!
I didn't have a large cable tie so I put a bunch of small ones together, worked perfect. But for real, thank you. I have been worried about how tight my shoes should be for a while, watching this helped me dial them in
If your brakes are adjusted properly look above the rear driveshaft. There is a but on a long rod that connects the e-brake lines to the handle, taker a socket and ratchet and screw the nut in till the e-brake tightens up. This is for an XJ if that is what you were asking for.
My brakes were so rusted, the star wheel was seized. And I don't believe they were working at all. I decided to replace everything. The shoes, star wheel, springs and all of the other hardware. Also replacing the wheel cylinders too. I've never seen brakes so rusted before. Jeep must of been sitting for a very long time before I bought it. Thanks for the great video!
Why would you want to disable an anti-head-bumping device? I wear mine everywhere. I like it so much better than than the football helmet I used to wear.
Anyone still here? Great video but I have a question, when you adjusted it, why would you want a drag, where it sounds like the breaks are rubbing (too close) to the drum?
If your adjuster isn't functioning, keeping it's threads absolutely positively spotless may be all you need to resolve it. On Jeeps the action required is cycling pressure on either shoe i.e. forward and reverse movement with hard braking (not the parking brake, which only spreads the bottom of the shoes) should ratchet the adjuster, assuming it's been set as shown here. You'll hear the faint clicking. I always just adjust them manually every now and then though ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Edit - according to Chilton's guide: _"Drive the vehicle forward and make one forward stop followed by a reverse stop. Repeat the procedure 8-10 times to equalize adjustment between the two sides. Bring the vehicle to a complete stop each time. Rolling stops will not activate the self-adjuster mechanism."_
Thanks for the tutorial. I adjusted mine a few clicks tighter before leaving on a trip. 500km in I smelled burning at the wheel and it was really hot. Adjusted it back about 25 clicks and it still makes a sound as though the shoe is touching slightly but the heat is gone. Not sure if I should replace this one now or if it's likely ok? And if I need to adjust both sides equally or this is ok
On my car when I pull the hand brake all the way up the car still moves. Even with the handle up I can push it forward and backwards. Are my rear brakes out of adjustment or are they worn. Also when driving and I hit the brake does that also mean that the rear brakes aren't working if they are out of adjustment?
The ZIP tie on the head is like the string mom would tie to your finger to help you remember to buy milk from the market you usually past by on your bike every day. But I would forget to buy the milk (NOT) in favor of a Mounds bar and an Ice Cream sandwich! Mom would ask 'Did you get the milk?" And as I always was quick to think on my feet I'd say, "Gee mom. That finger on which you tied the string was the 'You get what makes you happy sweetheart!" finger!!!!" …..Ah.....We had StarLac (powered milk) that night!!! Thanks mom!!!!!
where do you want the wheale to be at for movement when adjusting, I have mine at a little drag because my thinking was not to wear down the pads to much so the go half around then stop
On mine, the self adjuster is on the top beneath the wheel cylinder, there is no slot to reach a screwdriver in and adjust it with the drum assembled. If I leave enough room for the drum to fit over there is too much play and the pedal is squishy, if I adjust it tighter then there isn't enough clearance due to a slight "lip" worn into the edge of the drum. It's a Buick LeSabre and if I can't find a way of adjusting these properly I'm thinking of turning the lip off of the drums but I'm nervous about turning these on the off chance that I'll damage them, especially since I already exceeded my repair budget and dug into my two week grocery budget to make these repairs.
Thabks for the top and so if I want to loosen my brake so I dont hear rubbing I loosen the other way right? Or is it ok to leave it like that to have a slight rubbing sounds because my opposite wheel as practically no rubbing
Instead of replacing it right away, is it an option to oil or lube it? I am going to be doing this soon and I was wondering if cleaning a bit of the crud off and lubricating it was an option. Thank you in advance for your time and consideration!
Got a question for you ! I have an expensive air horn system year old stop blowing compressor fills up when air is released , fuse is good air horn is connected to original car horn which stills blows , how do I run a power line to bypass system just to check if horns went bad or its a problem in the electric system if you can make a video on that showing direct line to test horns would be great
On my daughters 2000 XJ the brakes where fine then all of a sudden she had no braking pulling and brake pedal to the floor into a parking spot. Would out of adjust drums cause that? I replaced the master cylinder which did seem to be leaking internally, and bled the brakes but same issue.
Changed front brakes calipers and pads .buster and master cylinder.now I cant get pedal to stiffen up .do the drum brakes need to b adjusted to get brakes working agean
Thank you for your useful video. Your TH-cam video very informative about adjusting brake drum. May God bless. Again, you're the hero..! Thank you, Sir...!
Thanks for the video, gonna try this on my 67 C20. Can't get my Parking brake to catch. Everything is hook up and tighten but won't grab when the hand brake is engaged. Hopefully just needs the adjustment, cross our fingers.
I know this is old but if you could comment or someone comment. I redid my entire drum brake assembly cause it needed to be done. What a pain in the ass but I got it all back together and checked my work and seems okay. Took the car for a ride and man the brake pedal felt soft too me it felt like only the front brakes where braking. And then I found my handbrake didn’t even hold the car. So do I just have to adjust them more. Plus the brake pedal kept making suction sound and never really seemed to be getting hard just like have pressure is this also a result of the drum brakes need to be adjusted more.
BleepinJeep right. 🤦♂️ one of the strings might have come off so got to fix that and I guess get new break parking shoes cus i check all bolts and they are tight. Makes a wobbling sound not all the time but sometimes which is weird. As if tire is flat? No shaking when I brake or when I drive tho. The rear is disk rotor and comes with drum 😩
@@zavalafrancisco23 my mechanic {me} forgot to tighten the lug nuts and the rear drivers side wheel came off on the interstate and i lost two springs but i was able to swipe a lugnut off of 3 other wheels and it got me home.
Thank you for the video. I did this today on a Toyota and its obviously much easier on a Jeep with the adjuster being to the bottom rather than at the top.
My 2016 subaru crosstrek has a drum breaks inside the disk as parking brake, when I lift the hand break, the car has an inch to move forward and backward but it emmets a click from both sides, is it some defect?
Hey BleepinJeep I have changed my brake shoes but can not get the drum plate back on? I noticed the wheel cylinder is not fully closed or compressed on the right side which I believed pushes the right shoe to the drum. Wheel cylinder with old brake shoe: oi63.tinypic.com/zwesmh.jpg New brake shoe: oi67.tinypic.com/14jylbn.jpg Please can you help me?
What direction do you turn the adjust the star to tighten or loosen parking brake without taking wheel apart and using the the hole from behind each wheel
Do this procedure to adjust the brakes first, then there should be an adjustment (sort of like a turnbuckle) along the cable for the parking brake that will let you tweak that. Make sure to do this adjustment first though!
Jaime Tale on my xj's the e-brake light is engaged from a little contact switch on the e-brake lever after it is pulled to a certain point. I would check this switch maybe for a bad spring.
you just solved the mystery of the clips left over in my brake parts kit. Covers for those little slots, the van didn't have them when I started. Googling "little black clip in brake parts" didn't help much
Great video ! Thanks! I have a question - are the adjuster screws designated as right side /left side? It doesn't look like they can be put on the wrong way. A guy is telling me that the adjusters on my 1990 Blazer are on the wrong side of each wheel. My adjusters look just like yours on this video . I told the guy I think mine are on there the right way. ? Help!
Properly adjusted brake shoes do not rub on drums... which is impossible as shown in this video without the axle/hub installed to hold the drum perfectly centered. With the drum off, turn the adjuster wheel until the drum will not fit over the shoes, and then back it off a little at a time until the drum can go on and rotate without rubbing on the shoes. The purpose of self adjusting systems is to compensate for shoes wearing down which is accomplished with abrupt stops while backing up, or maybe in some systems by applying the park/emergency brake. Removing a drum that has been in service often requires reducing the adjustment through the slot in the back so it's wise to teach yourself how to do that with the drum removed which as described in the video is best done with one tool to turn the wheel while another tool is holding the blade away from the wheel. Screw drivers work, but there are tools made for adjusting that work better. Usually (if not always) there are right hand thread adjusters on one side of the vehicle and left hand on the other and they should be installed cleaned and lubricated.
I’m having an issue. I replaced my drum brakes in the wheel cylinder all the springs. The adjusters looks good but the larger drum brake pad on my driver side is rubbing on the drum and it’s getting hot and I can smell the brake pad and I can feel heat coming from the rim and I don’t know what the problem is.
Great explanation, thanks Matt... I wondered what was wrong with my brake system, and I see that a whole lot of parts are missing 😕 Looks like I'll be searching for parts... again...
I have done mine but everytime they get hot they make a noise, is this normal until they bed in? very slight noise as you go around a corner stops if you tap the pedal
Im trying to figure out adjusting my 68 chevy drum brakes and ive made it worse. For some reason, you barely apply pressure to the pedal and it sticks and once it gives it locks the brakes down.
There are no springs inside of brake cylinder. There are two pistons that move out from center of cylinder. Also bottom gear it called a Star gear that expands brake shoes out or in depending on if you're taking off or after you have replaced brake shoes and replacing drum. I know this for a fact because I own 1990 Ford Bronco XLT and it has rear drum brakes. Replaced them a few time over the years. Also I have owned a 1967 Ford F100 and it all drum brakes. Got really good at mech work on all my vehicles. If you ever have a question on Ford vehicles especially trucks or Broncos ( 1988-1990) just ask. I'll be more than happy to help. My main vehicle is my 1990 Ford Bronco XLT 4x4 . 351 Windsor(5.8L)EFI, E40D tranny, 1356 Borg Warner transfer case
Where do i buy the head zip tie? Thats looks essential
FROM HIS WEB SITE!!
You must belong to the Zip Tie Indian tribe...
Ah yes that's a fine item
First time here and I'm like, is that a zip tie on his head 🤔😆
Make sure it's really tight on your head, trust me you do not want it loose enough to accidentally fall down to your neck.
Thanks for the video, you're the only one on the internet who could pull off having a zip tie around your head without it looking out of place.
Glad I could help
I'm not the only one who noticed his dang tie wrap
I have a slight problem, I have all the tools necessary to do the job except for the large cable tie. Can I perform this job without using the cable tie on my head?
The Headless Horseman No, I think you'll need the cable tie!
+BleepinJeep I have been using a black tie, and I think that's why my rear brakes always acted funny
I don't have the cable tie either!!! AAHHHH!!
I didnt even notice that... my word thats why I can never do anything correctly.
I have a set of different size cable ties. What width tie should I use and what torque should it be tightened to? Also cheers mate very helpful guide with no random anecdotes or vehicle specific instructions.
Wow watching in 2024...Still refreshing...thanks
The only video that tells u which direction to tighten or loosen the drum brakes. Thank u.
Excellent video. Told me everything I needed to know to loosen my brakes. I didn't see another video that clearly explained this. Thanks Friend!
Great video! Thank you so much for mentioning that the self adjuster is supposed to work in reverse. I did a little more research and the XJ adjusts when you brake HARD in reverse, which never happens. I went out and did it 6 times in my driveway and I went from no rear brakes at all to perfect without having to lift a tool!
Just replaced all the hardware, brake shoes and drum. Need to adjust and this video is just what I needed. Thanks!
I dont even know why i watch other channels. I always come back to your vids. You always have Everything i need to know.
Great video dude, didn't go too good the first time for me.then i figured out why,so i went to the store and bought the cable tie for my head, and it was so easy the 2nd time around. didn't get the same colour though,but a green one worked fine. thanks dude !!
🤣
If you can’t adjust your brakes you can always lower the zip tie around your neck and pull
😂😂bro not helping
Awesome video Matt! Spent the entire day changing the shoes and drums but was wondering about the initial adjustment. I never noticed the little rubber plug. Everything you explain about the Jeep has helped me greatly over the last several years. Thanks for your efforts.
By far the best video of drum brake adjustment. Much appreciated!
Zip tie seems to be doing its job, you spoke clear and concisely.
Fantastic video. I showed this one as part of a virtual lesson for my Automotive students.
Thank you SO much. I've had my car in the air for almost a week because I accidentally started a brake job with my parking brake on. I had no idea how to loosen it enough to get rotors on it. Thank you, thank you, thank you!
I didn't have a large cable tie so I put a bunch of small ones together, worked perfect.
But for real, thank you. I have been worried about how tight my shoes should be for a while, watching this helped me dial them in
If your brakes are adjusted properly look above the rear driveshaft. There is a but on a long rod that connects the e-brake lines to the handle, taker a socket and ratchet and screw the nut in till the e-brake tightens up. This is for an XJ if that is what you were asking for.
My brakes were so rusted, the star wheel was seized. And I don't believe they were working at all. I decided to replace everything. The shoes, star wheel, springs and all of the other hardware. Also replacing the wheel cylinders too. I've never seen brakes so rusted before. Jeep must of been sitting for a very long time before I bought it. Thanks for the great video!
Best video i seen yet on this.
And guess who has working rear breaks now....this guy! This also helped with my hand brake.
Freakin' GREAT video man! Never knew adjusting drum brakes was so simple until now. Going to try this on my 1993 ZJ.
Do I need a big zip tie around my head for this procedure?
sure..😂
yep
It's like cat whiskers. It prevents head bumps.
I tried it...worked like a charm! Now where is the video for removing the zip tie?
Why would you want to disable an anti-head-bumping device? I wear mine everywhere. I like it so much better than than the football helmet I used to wear.
Anyone still here? Great video but I have a question, when you adjusted it, why would you want a drag, where it sounds like the breaks are rubbing (too close) to the drum?
Im going to set mine a little looser than this guy showed us.
That was one of the more informative vids I saw on brakes. Tell them that they need that plug to prevent the nasty dust from getting back in--thanks.
If your adjuster isn't functioning, keeping it's threads absolutely positively spotless may be all you need to resolve it. On Jeeps the action required is cycling pressure on either shoe i.e. forward and reverse movement with hard braking (not the parking brake, which only spreads the bottom of the shoes) should ratchet the adjuster, assuming it's been set as shown here. You'll hear the faint clicking.
I always just adjust them manually every now and then though ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Edit - according to Chilton's guide:
_"Drive the vehicle forward and make one forward stop followed by a reverse stop. Repeat the procedure 8-10 times to equalize adjustment between the two sides. Bring the vehicle to a complete stop each time. Rolling stops will not activate the self-adjuster mechanism."_
Me 0:00: "Who's this fool with a zip tie on his head?!"
Me 0:30: "Everybody shut up, I'm learning!!"
enjoyed the show
Bravo! This is the best video on the subject on the internet. Thank you.
Man, keep detailing like that, that is awesome.
Thank you for the video. What was critical is putting it in reverse and breaking or pushing the emergency break.
Thanks for the tutorial. I adjusted mine a few clicks tighter before leaving on a trip. 500km in I smelled burning at the wheel and it was really hot. Adjusted it back about 25 clicks and it still makes a sound as though the shoe is touching slightly but the heat is gone. Not sure if I should replace this one now or if it's likely ok? And if I need to adjust both sides equally or this is ok
On my car when I pull the hand brake all the way up the car still moves. Even with the handle up I can push it forward and backwards. Are my rear brakes out of adjustment or are they worn. Also when driving and I hit the brake does that also mean that the rear brakes aren't working if they are out of adjustment?
Can you explain why you want a slight drag with brake pedal released?
They won't do anything at all if they're any looser than that.
The ZIP tie on the head is like the string mom would tie to your finger to help you remember to buy milk from the market you usually past by on your bike every day. But I would forget to buy the milk (NOT) in favor of a Mounds bar and an Ice Cream sandwich! Mom would ask 'Did you get the milk?" And as I always was quick to think on my feet I'd say, "Gee mom. That finger on which you tied the string was the 'You get what makes you happy sweetheart!" finger!!!!" …..Ah.....We had StarLac (powered milk) that night!!! Thanks mom!!!!!
You saved my ass, all of a sudden my truck wouldn’t roll. I watched your video and it all makes sense, thank you.
Thanks Bleepin Jeep. Excellent demonstration.
Ever consider doing a quarter panel cut and fold? It gets rid of that stupid rust pocket behind the rear tires, and looks cool as hell.
My forehead is turning purple. Thanks for the video.
Video helped big-time
Good shot of the brakes, also used on Dodge d 150 Pickup, 11 inch from 84 to 93. Thank you.
I ain't believing he pulled a rear axel just to make this video!!!! That is commitment!!!
he must have been replacing axle seals you dont pull axles to adj brakes ..😉
Premo my man can't tell it any simpler than that thanks for explaining.
Is the emergency brake supposed to be set when you do this or no?
I need the answer to this question!!!!
No
Excellent explanation...thank you
You are welcome!
Much better video than I thought it would be!
where do you want the wheale to be at for movement when adjusting, I have mine at a little drag because my thinking was not to wear down the pads to much so the go half around then stop
On mine, the self adjuster is on the top beneath the wheel cylinder, there is no slot to reach a screwdriver in and adjust it with the drum assembled. If I leave enough room for the drum to fit over there is too much play and the pedal is squishy, if I adjust it tighter then there isn't enough clearance due to a slight "lip" worn into the edge of the drum. It's a Buick LeSabre and if I can't find a way of adjusting these properly I'm thinking of turning the lip off of the drums but I'm nervous about turning these on the off chance that I'll damage them, especially since I already exceeded my repair budget and dug into my two week grocery budget to make these repairs.
Do.u have to have the e brake on while u adjuste them
Does my truck have to be in neutral to do the spin/fit check?
Do you need to bleed the rear breaks when changing the pads?
I have done many of these on different autos and BJ is right on.
Thabks for the top and so if I want to loosen my brake so I dont hear rubbing I loosen the other way right? Or is it ok to leave it like that to have a slight rubbing sounds because my opposite wheel as practically no rubbing
Instead of replacing it right away, is it an option to oil or lube it? I am going to be doing this soon and I was wondering if cleaning a bit of the crud off and lubricating it was an option. Thank you in advance for your time and consideration!
You could always take it out and deep clean it and then lube it up a bit... Just don't go to ham as you don't want excessive oil on your pads
@@darrentylor5473 thank you
so doing this will adjust the handbrake too ?
thanks you helped a german guy a Lot!
Now i know how to get my Impala back in order
Got a question for you ! I have an expensive air horn system year old stop blowing compressor fills up when air is released , fuse is good air horn is connected to original car horn which stills blows , how do I run a power line to bypass system just to check if horns went bad or its a problem in the electric system
if you can make a video on that showing direct line to test horns would be great
On my daughters 2000 XJ the brakes where fine then all of a sudden she had no braking pulling and brake pedal to the floor into a parking spot. Would out of adjust drums cause that? I replaced the master cylinder which did seem to be leaking internally, and bled the brakes but same issue.
Changed front brakes calipers and pads .buster and master cylinder.now I cant get pedal to stiffen up .do the drum brakes need to b adjusted to get brakes working agean
What is the thinker tube that runs into the back of the drum, not the brake fluid line but the other tube?
Is that your tactical zip tie in case you get stranded on the trail and need to repair your bleepin Jeep?
Which direction tion do I need to turn star to close in closer?
Do both rear tires have to be off the ground in order to spin the hub/tire? Have driver rear tire of ground only and it won't spin.
Thank you for your useful video. Your TH-cam video very informative about adjusting brake drum. May God bless. Again, you're the hero..! Thank you, Sir...!
Thanks for the video, gonna try this on my 67 C20. Can't get my Parking brake to catch. Everything is hook up and tighten but won't grab when the hand brake is engaged. Hopefully just needs the adjustment, cross our fingers.
Working on my 67 c20 as well! That's what brought me here. Good luck !
I know this is old but if you could comment or someone comment. I redid my entire drum brake assembly cause it needed to be done. What a pain in the ass but I got it all back together and checked my work and seems okay. Took the car for a ride and man the brake pedal felt soft too me it felt like only the front brakes where braking. And then I found my handbrake didn’t even hold the car. So do I just have to adjust them more. Plus the brake pedal kept making suction sound and never really seemed to be getting hard just like have pressure is this also a result of the drum brakes need to be adjusted more.
the first few seconds I thought you had on a white bandana on your head I was about to say Thug Life😂😂😂😂
Do we need to do this on the front drums as well?
What would happen if one of those springs that hold the break comes off?
And drove it around with loose springs!
Lots of noise and grinding
BleepinJeep right. 🤦♂️ one of the strings might have come off so got to fix that and I guess get new break parking shoes cus i check all bolts and they are tight. Makes a wobbling sound not all the time but sometimes which is weird. As if tire is flat? No shaking when I brake or when I drive tho. The rear is disk rotor and comes with drum 😩
@@zavalafrancisco23 my mechanic {me} forgot to tighten the lug nuts and the rear drivers side wheel came off on the interstate and i lost two springs but i was able to swipe a lugnut off of 3 other wheels and it got me home.
Hi, do I need to adjust both of the drum brakes?
is the zip tie holding holding your hair on?
If the axle was implace, is this the correct amount of wheel turn ? I'll be finishing up a rear brake on a cj7 tomorrow.
I might have missed it but does the parking brake have to be engaged when adjusting the gear thingy
Thank you for the video. I did this today on a Toyota and its obviously much easier on a Jeep with the adjuster being to the bottom rather than at the top.
Ahhhh. I see ur in the “salt belt” like me.
Nice vid!
My 2016 subaru crosstrek has a drum breaks inside the disk as parking brake, when I lift the hand break, the car has an inch to move forward and backward but it emmets a click from both sides, is it some defect?
Drinkinh game! Take a shot whenever he says "Adjust" or "Adjuster"!
I get the adjuster moves the pads closer to the rotor. but doesn't the wheel cyc. still have to travel just as far to push the pads against the drums?
+Joe Cozzo no, the piston stays out after you apply the brakes and only lets loose just enough to let the wheel spin.
Hey BleepinJeep
I have changed my brake shoes but can not get the drum plate back on?
I noticed the wheel cylinder is not fully closed or compressed on the right side which I believed pushes the right shoe to the drum.
Wheel cylinder with old brake shoe: oi63.tinypic.com/zwesmh.jpg
New brake shoe: oi67.tinypic.com/14jylbn.jpg
Please can you help me?
Before you adjust you have to have your parking break off right?
do you need to have the car in neutral to test turning the wheel/drum for tightness of brakes?
Some cars both tires need to be off the ground. And just in case you had a brain fart. Block the front tires. Don’t use the e brake.
great video. I thought I was going to have to change my brakes and all I needed to do was adjust it. thank you!
Thanks for the awesome video!!! I need this refresher for my 76 Ford Elite.
What direction do you turn the adjust the star to tighten or loosen parking brake without taking wheel apart and using the the hole from behind each wheel
Do this procedure to adjust the brakes first, then there should be an adjustment (sort of like a turnbuckle) along the cable for the parking brake that will let you tweak that. Make sure to do this adjustment first though!
Confusing at 4:50 you adjusted downward to loosen and then said the shoes are going outward.
Replaced the shoes drums and the adjuster it sounds terrible metal on metal backed them off a lot and still doing it any ideas?
Sounds like something is loose in there.
Maybe your brake shoe return springs need to be replaced
If my emergency brake light is slightly turned on but my truck does not have ABS can it be that one of the brake drums are too tight?
Jaime Tale on my xj's the e-brake light is engaged from a little contact switch on the e-brake lever after it is pulled to a certain point. I would check this switch maybe for a bad spring.
you just solved the mystery of the clips left over in my brake parts kit. Covers for those little slots, the van didn't have them when I started. Googling "little black clip in brake parts" didn't help much
1st time here and the zip is catchy asf
Great video ! Thanks! I have a question - are the adjuster screws designated as right side /left side? It doesn't look like they can be put on the wrong way. A guy is telling me that the adjusters on my 1990 Blazer are on the wrong side of each wheel. My adjusters look just like yours on this video . I told the guy I think mine are on there the right way. ? Help!
Properly adjusted brake shoes do not rub on drums... which is impossible as shown in this video without the axle/hub installed to hold the drum perfectly centered.
With the drum off, turn the adjuster wheel until the drum will not fit over the shoes, and then back it off a little at a time until the drum can go on and rotate without rubbing on the shoes.
The purpose of self adjusting systems is to compensate for shoes wearing down which is accomplished with abrupt stops while backing up, or maybe in some systems by applying the park/emergency brake.
Removing a drum that has been in service often requires reducing the adjustment through the slot in the back so it's wise to teach yourself how to do that with the drum removed which as described in the video is best done with one tool to turn the wheel while another tool is holding the blade away from the wheel. Screw drivers work, but there are tools made for adjusting that work better.
Usually (if not always) there are right hand thread adjusters on one side of the vehicle and left hand on the other and they should be installed cleaned and lubricated.
I’m having an issue. I replaced my drum brakes in the wheel cylinder all the springs. The adjusters looks good but the larger drum brake pad on my driver side is rubbing on the drum and it’s getting hot and I can smell the brake pad and I can feel heat coming from the rim and I don’t know what the problem is.
Great explanation, thanks Matt... I wondered what was wrong with my brake system, and I see that a whole lot of parts are missing 😕 Looks like I'll be searching for parts... again...
Thanks outing together a 68 gmc your teaching helps
I have done mine but everytime they get hot they make a noise, is this normal until they bed in? very slight noise as you go around a corner stops if you tap the pedal
did it go down some after driving awhile>>
I read somewhere that the e-brake should be adjusted with the lever 5 clicks up. Is that correct?
tighten it so it has a few clicks. but by half way it should lock up rear brakes
Thanks :)
This dude knows his jeeps.
dumb question- should the emergency brake be on for this?
+d0ntblinktwice no, that would stop the drum's from turning..
be sure to chalk front wheels if u r on jack stands.Disengage E brake. while u r working on it.
How can you tell if the adjuster is adjusting itself when you put it in reverse?
Im trying to figure out adjusting my 68 chevy drum brakes and ive made it worse. For some reason, you barely apply pressure to the pedal and it sticks and once it gives it locks the brakes down.
Thanks bro..very useful video
There are no springs inside of brake cylinder. There are two pistons that move out from center of cylinder.
Also bottom gear it called a Star gear that expands brake shoes out or in depending on if you're taking off or after you have replaced brake shoes and replacing drum.
I know this for a fact because I own 1990 Ford Bronco XLT and it has rear drum brakes. Replaced them a few time over the years.
Also I have owned a 1967 Ford F100 and it all drum brakes. Got really good at mech work on all my vehicles.
If you ever have a question on Ford vehicles especially trucks or Broncos ( 1988-1990) just ask. I'll be more than happy to help.
My main vehicle is my 1990 Ford Bronco XLT 4x4 . 351 Windsor(5.8L)EFI, E40D tranny, 1356 Borg Warner transfer case