Which Side Of A Router Base Should You Use?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 พ.ค. 2020
- If you've ever wondered which side of a router base you should use, here's my take AND a fix to make sure your router sub base is centered around your router bit. Don't forget to check out the FLASH SALE on OLight's website on May 8th! Take 30% and 40% off on certain items and 10% off ALL the time using the code INSPIRE10 at checkout! olight.idevaffiliate.com/idev...
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Your explanation makes sense. What would be a good use for the flat side? Why does it exist?
I had to chuckle at "If anybody is still watching" .. thinking to myself.. are you freaking kidding me? We're glued to every word. The name "Inspire" is a perfect fit. Thanks again for fabulous content.
Thank you. Resourceful is another word you used that is important. More people need to think outside the box. Again thank you.
Such an awesome comment. Thank you very much!
Agree totally!
Brilliant, I had always used the flat edge and had experienced all the issues you described. Thanks you explained it so clearly.
Hi there this is Dave from England I just come across your video and watched it all the way through hello what you said my perfect common sense a simple self centring jig that took 5-minutes to make ensures you never stray from the line I've used the round and the flat part before and I think I will adopt your way thank you very much for explaining it so well and all the very best stay safe and I'll keep watching
For anyone that wants a commercial option I own the Bosch centering cone. The metal rod has a 1/4” and 1/2” side with a separate plastic cone so it can be used on any rougher with an adjustable sub base and either size collet. It runs for about $7 on Amazon. Hope this helps.
For somebody like me who is new to all this woodworking stuff, you have described how to use the router perfectly for a novice. As so many have said, you have a skill not only at woodworking but at describing perfectly how to use the tool, without waffling on about other things. You have inspired me to go and make some jigs straight away. Thank you
This makes such great sense. I use the straight edge often and I do exactly as you describe - I sometimes screw it up! Thanks
I never gave whether or not my router base was centered a second thought. I have had the sub base off too...thanks for a great video and perfect advice.
Great video for all of those who never had to think about this before.Because I used a dovetail jig with a bushing,to fit the template I had to figure this problem out before.I used a hand sink bit with a wide pyramid shape,knocked it out the handle (8mm shaft thanks god) and grinded it flat in the drillpess.As long I work with different tools I never come across another tool that’s so versitile as a router.Seems like the different situations to use it,to get a job done is endless.Like Collin Knechts triangle base for framemoulding etc.Keep it coming.Well done,and sorry for my bad grammar.Greatings from Germany
I've never been very router savvy so this was great info. The centering rang very true with me because doing layout for work i have to actually true up my levels and plumbrods. A lot of people wouldn't think that levels get out of well level but they do. Good practice to make sure your tools are staying plumb, level and square.
Hi Jody,
This video blew my mind and to think I was doing it incorrectly by using the straight edge of the router base all this time!
Thank you so much for this little tip, it's much clearer now after seeing you do it. Couple of weeks back I was making a box and dados for putting in dividers in and I wasn't paying attention and slightly moved the router off the straight edge and immediately the dado strayed off path, this actually happened 3 more times!
Just loving your honest videos and gems of knowledge that comes with it.
Thank you! You taught me things I had never thought of! This is great I now have knowledge before even trying and screwing up. Been a little intimidated by my router to only using it in the router table. Know I am going to venture into using the plunge base! Thank you again excellent video! I too chuckled at "If your still watching". Of course I am!
This is awesome. I am new to wood working and was really wracking my brain on how to get good clean cuts like this. My last attempt was successful enough but was a royal pain and would not have looked good if it hadn't been mostly hidden by the rest of the piece. So I am looking forward to trying this out.
You are blessed with the unique gift of the ability to explain your actions AND humility, I have worked wood for 60 to 70 years and I learn something almost every video.
Oh man, this explains the issue I had the other day. Not an experienced router user and assumed the flat part of the base was for following a fence/edge. Well afterwards I had little variations in my cut and I put it down to my skill level. Will use the round part of the base from now on. Thank you very much
I'm doing my first cabinetry project ever and using a router to make shelf dados, and this was invaluable advice. My dados wobbled a bit, but not as badly as they would have if I'd been using the straight side. Thanks! and subscribed.
Just bloody fantastic, been struggling with my router for so long and now I know why. Thank you so much
Thank you for the clear explanation , very helpful! I always used the flat edge and now i feel more confident getting a round base
OF COURSE I'm still watching! Thanks for this excellent discussion. Especially the DIY centering cone. That's on my to-do list!
I use the round edge too. I had not thought of the sub-base coming out of concentricity, will be making a entering cone on the lathe real soon to check my routers. Many thanks!
Getting back into router work after a layoff, and it is amazing how much I did not know. Just never thought much about the layout of the sub-base plate....Thanks for making it simple to understand...
Superb video this mate. The straight edge is a pain in the ass and i was making this mistake constantly!! Thank you 🙏
Love this. Very simple and direct video on setting up a centering cone. Thanks a bunch Jody
Harleymike/chicago
Good thinking and good advice, I know when ever I using a cutting device i.e. saw router drill etc I want to feel the cutting not the friction of the guide I am using, and also pay attention to the cut line, motor RPM/sound, so having one less thing to pay attention to is a very good thing. and Probably Rocks too ?
I was wondering why use the round side too, you automatically think the straight edge is better, now I know the correct method. Thanks for putting things straight, very clear, calm explanation. Sometimes we call those divider calipers in the UK.
Been looking through your videos now. And you truly are inspired. Thank you so much for all your help and tips. Really appreciate 🌼
Great video. As a hobbyist, I never realized the whole centering thing! I almost always used the straight edge. Not anymore!
Another great video. More common sense in the shop. Keep doing what you do! Thanks
This is the second video I have seen suggesting using the round side and it works and makes perfect sense.
The type of router you have there usually has a metal guide fence and when that is put on the router you can see that it is positioned to either side of the round base.
So what your saying here makes perfect sence. Good video. 👍🏻
Awesome class, thank you, I’m new in this wood work trying save some money on my house repairs.
I have a centering cone, this is so simple and informative, thank you.
Some good tips there.Thankyou.
I made an 18mm rebate/rabbet jig similar to yours but with a snug fit when running along the straight part of the base as well as touching the opposite rounded part.
Being 6'2",I have no problem reaching across a 24" board for full width rebates in cabinets.
I also included a 6mm base under the rails which was cut through with the 1st cut using an 18mm cutter,much like a circular saw straight guide.
That way I can simply align the cutout in the jig with either edge of the intended rebate for perfect results,with a single pass, every time.(Just remember to have the jig the right way round which is easy due to marking the baseplate outline on the 6mm ply base.)
Everything was sanded to P180 before assembly so it runs pretty smoothly,especially with a dab of camelia oil on the contact areas once in a while.
I fully agree with your point about ergonomics though and if I was ever unlucky enough to be doing rebates all day,I'd probably consider your approach!
Top class video and very helpful to me as a hobby woodworker. When my router is facing towards me it has a grooved centre (center) mark on the base so I know that I'm ploughing a straight line.
Best wishes from Ireland.
Great explanation! Weird side note: Just last night while routing 3/4" dados for a channel system, I eventually realized my base being slightly off center and me rotating the router a bit to avoid the clamps on my straight edge, those dados were perfect while the others were too tight. But the fluke of me realizing if I rotated the router I could then widen the dado a hair on the return pass and get them dialed for the channel inserts.. then coincidentally learning the flip side of that with your lesson, kinda funny.
Thanks for explaining why my cut may have been skewed on my last project, I'm happily learning how to use a router.
Great video. Very clear explanations. Just as I thought of questions they were answered! Thank you.
As a retired machinist of 38 year's I was waiting if you were going that way kudos to YOU....
You, sir are correct. I have a Craftsman router and i went out and checked it. Sure enough it is a lot more comfortable using the round part of the sub-base. I also noticed the metal part of my router is curved inward so it is difficult to put it in wrong, but I still have over sized holes in case I need to use them. Even so, I plan to a cone similar to yours just because it looks easier then trying to look around the perimeter to see if the sub-base is centered. By the way, as of now, I never plan to use the flat part of my router again. Thank You Very Much!
Great video.
My favourite routers are round based like the Makita 3612C and the Triton routers. That's a great idea, much more simple and probably accurate than the method i currently use. Although i have never had a problem with accuracy I will check my round base routers using the divider method tomorrow. Thanks.
So simple, it's a "why didn't I think of that?" moment. Thanks for this simple solution. I always used the flat and far too many times I failed to keep it flat to my guide.
This is a wonderful video. I have to agree with the 'round side' approach. My trim routers have an indexed ring on the base and I like to make various sub-bases out of acrylic. I use a small end-mill and rotary table to solve the concentric problem and this allows me to rabbet in a ring for my template guides, but I really like your approach using a cone chucked in the spindle - hard to go wrong. Another way to measure is with a 0.25 pin (not a wood dowel) chucked in and then use a dial caliper to walk around the base. Just discovered your channel and like everything I've watched - content, presentation, and honesty...
Really enjoyed this video. The subject matter was interesting and informative and delivery was spot on.
Excellent content as usual. Can always pick up some great tips while attending Inspire Woodcraft school. Also, like your coffee cup on the workbench too. Cheers.
Thank you, for presenting another approach toward more accurate router work (David)
nice trick, I have one sub base that someone tried to modify so it is not good to use to center off of but you could use a compass to center things up. quick and easy.
Great idea to center the base... Looking back, my router base was off so my cutter would be off.. Thanks for the great vids..
Good illustration for beginners,perfecto
You know the more woodworkers set up their equipment with a mindset like a machinist ( as far as calibration goes ) the better his or her results will be.your router setup is a perfect example..nice job all around...stay safe...
Awesome advice. I'm a 60 year old rookie wood worker (just getting started). I'm a draftsman but I'v always admired carpenters, finish carpentry craftsmen and general woodworking. One thing, centering can be verified using a metal ruler with a hole at one end using the shaft you used to place the centering jig. Greetings from Puerto Rico and thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Funny you mentioned this because I originally did that as well, I just needed a system that was easier for most folks to understand. Thanks so much for watching!
This was very informative. I have always used flat edge, but not anymore.
Salt of the earth guy... I am a handyman, doing an gym cabinet with a customer I have worked with for years. This tip on the router set up was awesome.
I've had to figure these things out myself over the past few years of owning a router, and this video literally covers all the bases (pun intended).
I do wanna add that when installing a router in a router table, using the same centering technique can be valuable if you want to add a permanent ruler on the table's surface. That allows you to subtract/add half the diameter of the bit being used and set the fence with a bit less fumbling around with calipers - although setting to a line is usually more accurate anyway (and better yet, making test cuts in scrap first. something I often fail to do)
Great point!
That's pure genius. Thanks for the tip!
Thank you that was really educational and useful demo. 😊
Great sub base centering method!
Very interesting.. still trying to get to grips with my router. thanks
Thanks, I finally will get my router next week I'm very excited, watching lots of videos so I know some what how to use it when I get it
Oh nice! It's such a useful and unique tool. You will love it I'm sure!
You’re a scientist man. I love your explanations and always learn something
Great video I'm going to use this on my routers.
I bought a router before the lock down. I am yet to start operating it. Videos like these are my go to "User Info". Thanks for making this video
Thank you for explaining how to make sure your router bits are centered.
Thanks.. I really enjoy your videos.. and look forward to them keep up the awesome work!
You my friend have a skill to explain at a level that is easy to grasp and understand which is very helpful to me as a “Woodworkerwannabe”. Enjoy your channel very much👍
Well thank you!
Thank you very much, for the first time i now understand. Thank you again.
I’ve bought the Bosch centering cone, but to be honest the quickest centering method I found, which is straight from the manual itself, is using the screws included with the router in the bags that are made to insert in the sub base for centering with their cone shaped heads.
Awesome explanation. Thank you!
Great tips & so well put over.. many thanks. 5*👍
Great info, keep the good information flowing
Makes a lot of sense. Thanks again Jodee.
Just watched this excellent video. I just bought a brand new router and expected the round base plate to be centered and the diameter to be consistent. Unfortunately it was neither meaning it is only possible to "center" the base plate when measured at certain places on the plate. I think this may be a more common problem than is appreciated. Looks like I will need to build a new, more accurate, base plate. Thanks, Larry
Another great video. It's the first video I chose to view this morning when I saw it was up.
Well thanks for choosing this one!
Was parfect, keep exploring to keep teach us. Thanks.
Great solution for centering the subbase.. A drill bit would be great to put the cone on. Everybody has some and you can use the one you created the hole in the center of the cone
I'm kinda late coming to the conversation but THANKS I learned so much and I totally get it. BRAVO
As they say never to old to learn cheers great tip
Another great video, the teacher in you is great to watch. In te case of this particular video, despite already knowing a lot of what you were explaining, I was still invested in it. That tells a lot about how well you convey things in an interesting manner that keeps viewers riveted and coming back.
Keep up the good work and stay safe.
Greetings from Portugal
Such a great comment. Thank you so much!
@@InspireWoodcraft Thank YOU for reading and replying 👍
Plywood cone is such a brilliant solution!
I've seen a Japanese guy doing a similar thing out of epoxy, with the rod already included inside, it is a great idea 🙂
Thanks for the info, it will help a lot.
Great video Jody, you explain things very well. When you explain something in a video and a question pops up in my mind your answering it in the very next sentence, it seem like you think of all the questions that people can possibly think of and you answer it right away. I swear you could be a teacher. Well I guess you are if you look at it because people learn from your channel. Thank you professor Jody. Lol 🤓🎓📏📐🔨📖. Looking forward to your next video. P.S. Don't get stressed out about making more videos. Don't let this happen to you🤪🤯.
Ha! It's hard not to feel some sort of pressure to constantly be putting out something. I really appreciate the kind words and encouragement. Thank you!
Excellent + and yes indeed I did learn something - thanks.
Whoa there horsie! Love the flashlight but it's dam expensive and SOLD OUT lol.
Good point! Great demo!
Thanks, nice explanation.
Good instruction, thanks.
Sir,
Thank you for an interesting and informative video.
It's all perfectly logical, especially for that kind of router.
I have some experience that runs contrary however.
1 - Using the round part of the base against a straight edge (as you demonstrate) requires that the workpiece be an inch or so wider than if the flat edge be used.
2 - We all know that: with the straight edge to your right (as you demonstrate with the T square) you draw the router towards yourself so that the cutting force presses the router base against the straight edge. Propelling the router in the opposite direction has the opposite effect and provides a force tending to drift the router away from the straight edge unless held firmly.
So providing we propel the router in the right direction (towards you in this example) it won't have the tendency to drift that you suggest at 5:04.
Further, if edge planing with the router, drift isn't a problem as it only cuts fresh air and the router can be passed again if necessary.
3 - If you're cutting along (not across) a long workpiece, on your particular router you can still use the circular part of the base, opposite the flat. However some routers have a pair of flats. This isn't without advantage: it enables narrower work (by about 2") to be worked in a slot or dado jig.
4 - At 13:30 you play dawn the need for precision to "Several thousandths of an inch". I use a Mitutoyo vernier caliper and aim to work to a few thou. It makes the difference between force fit, snug fit and sloppy fit.
Stay well. Regards, Clive.
Brilliant thanks from lock down UK
You know when I saw the title to this video I was like, I know which way to use a router, I don't need no help with my stinkin router.... Well after watching the video I did need help with my stinkin router and I learned several things. Great video.
As always I love your videos. Centering cones can be purchased for any type router for just a few dollars.
Awesome! Thanks for sharing the info.
I'm a big fan of Olight. I have several of their products.
I like the comment, that you made, about one point on the round part versus the flat part, which could lose contact easily.
impressive ill definitely keep this in my back pocket. I made a 2 foot by 4 foot router table thats flat to 0.003 in at the center from the edge and i abuse the hell out of my router bits making dados and edge trim, best part is that the table collects 95% of all dust because the dust is extracted thru the center hole instead of the fence. Additionally my table saw is on casters and at the exact height as the router table so i can use the fence on the saw to give me infinite length.
Just awesome, thank you !!
Good argument for that use. I did wonder why at first
You can use the bosch Or most centering cones on most routers.
It it has a rod 1/2" On one side and a 1/4" Rod on the other side of the cone. So it fits both collets and the cone is tapered on both sides. Typically it's used to center a router bit collar.
In case you don't have a collar but want to center a base whose center opening is bigger than the cone diameter use a disk of wood stuck in center with a centered hole in between..
Thanks, spot on what I wanted.
I have the exact same router. I use a milescraft base plate that removes the flat edge. The kit also comes with a centering pin to make sure the bit is in the center of the plate. The base also holds bushings so never have to change it out.
Interesting. Thanks for sharing. I will have to look into that. Have you ever tried the factory Bosch bushings with the plunge base? I always mean to get them but then I never have that big of a need for them so I always pass it up.
@@InspireWoodcraft actually, i have to correct myself. The milescraft is smaller than the baseplate. I only use it for my spiro graph. The powermatic base is the one that is bigger than the baseplate. That is the one i use with a guide. I have the port cable bushings set that i picked up at a yard sale for $5 over 10 years ago. They screw into both the milescraft and the powermatic. I also picked up the craftsman spirograph that came with the miles craft baseplate and 2 brass bushings at the same yard sale with about 30 router bits. The spirograph is amazing. 3 templates lets you do around 50 designs. Also came with templates to do letters and numbers.
Great tip!
I was wrong, thanks for showing me things I hadn't figured out!