Two more comments. 1. The mortar for sticking and pointing bricks cannot be stronger than bricks! The mortar is supposed to work and act as a cushion of stresses caused by changes in temperature and humidity. 2. You do not need to use steel bars to secure cracks that actually react with the highly alkaline lime mortar. Fiberglass reinforcements in the form of bars are available for sale. At the current prices of steel, composite reinforcements are cheaper than traditional ones ;-)
@@MikeCarter we usually tie our hessian to the guttering and hang down then weigh bottom down to ground with bricks for example to stop it flapping or if gutter not available usually like long nails in top course hammered in to create a hook for the hessian
Mortar for historic buildings should not be that wet when repointing. It should be drypack. You should be able to create a ball with the damp mortar. Also, the mortar needs to be PACKED into the joint, not lightly pressed in like that guy is doing. He's going to end up with air gaps inside the joints, and the outer mortar will just fall right off in short time. Don't cut the vertical joints with a grinder, or you end up cutting up the bricks like this bonehead did. Use a chisel! Yeah, it looks real good with vertical cuts in the bricks horizontal edges where they aren't supposed to be. Don't finish the joints until the mortar is thumbnail dry. You should barely be able to depress it with your thumbnail. Keep them damp by spraying afterwards, and cover from sunlight if the wall is in direct sunlight while curing.
Scott Mares thanks for adding your advice in your opinion is the brush finish necessary could we not just strike it with an iron like normal sand cement mix or would that not pure properly as the video suggests
What a bonehead you are Scott. The video clearly explains that you should not use the angle grinder for the very reason you state. It then shows you an example, A 5 year old child could understand it.
Poor Skills mortar to wet he is right handed so should point from right to left further compressing the last toolfull as he goes. He should also be creating a wedge shape on his hawk so the mortar goes all the way to the back of the joint.
I have specified this coloured mortar for a Norwich project, I was very pleased with the outcome and the contractors found it straight forward to use.
still good?
Always remember to pack out the joint, unlike in this video.
Two more comments.
1. The mortar for sticking and pointing bricks cannot be stronger than bricks! The mortar is supposed to work and act as a cushion of stresses caused by changes in temperature and humidity.
2. You do not need to use steel bars to secure cracks that actually react with the highly alkaline lime mortar. Fiberglass reinforcements in the form of bars are available for sale. At the current prices of steel, composite reinforcements are cheaper than traditional ones ;-)
Use a pointing trowel...
Please tell this is available in India i want it
How do you secure hessian cover to the brickwork? I understand it needs weeks of protection from rain and wind. What's an easy way to secure hessian?
Put bricks on as to weights
Amazon.
@@ELLENFISHER2008 if the hessian is hanging vertically where are these bricks going? i'm guessing attaching it to the guttering somehow? 🤷🏻♂
@@MikeCarter we usually tie our hessian to the guttering and hang down then weigh bottom down to ground with bricks for example to stop it flapping or if gutter not available usually like long nails in top course hammered in to create a hook for the hessian
Can you mix hydrolic lime with lime putty so to quicken setting time ?
Mortar for historic buildings should not be that wet when repointing. It should be drypack. You should be able to create a ball with the damp mortar. Also, the mortar needs to be PACKED into the joint, not lightly pressed in like that guy is doing. He's going to end up with air gaps inside the joints, and the outer mortar will just fall right off in short time. Don't cut the vertical joints with a grinder, or you end up cutting up the bricks like this bonehead did. Use a chisel! Yeah, it looks real good with vertical cuts in the bricks horizontal edges where they aren't supposed to be. Don't finish the joints until the mortar is thumbnail dry. You should barely be able to depress it with your thumbnail. Keep them damp by spraying afterwards, and cover from sunlight if the wall is in direct sunlight while curing.
Scott Mares thanks for adding your advice in your opinion is the brush finish necessary could we not just strike it with an iron like normal sand cement mix or would that not pure properly as the video suggests
Doesn’t hitting the joint with w Victorian churn brush compact the joints
@Welsh Simon think that's you
What a bonehead you are Scott. The video clearly explains that you should not use the angle grinder for the very reason you state. It then shows you an example, A 5 year old child could understand it.
@@SkillBuilder very disrespectful comment you are supposed to be a professional
No sand?
That's why it's called lime mortar...
This appears to be a premixed product.
where we find this product in bolton?
Decent products. A shame however that the tools/techniques in this vid aren’t as good. The mortar chosen for this job also looks questionable.
Poor Skills mortar to wet he is right handed so should point from right to left further compressing the last toolfull as he goes. He should also be creating a wedge shape on his hawk so the mortar goes all the way to the back of the joint.
Не рациональная работа при затирке швов
Cmkc