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Lime Green Products
United Kingdom
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 25 ส.ค. 2015
Since its formation in 2002, Lime Green has established itself as the UK's foremost manufacturer of hydraulic lime mortar, lime plaster and lime render.
And by working with other companies and organisations, as well as through ongoing research and development in key areas such as product chemistry, environmental assessment and historic building maintenance, we continue to make our products even better.
That's why our products are used on some of Britain's best-known historic buildings and ecological developments, as well as smaller projects and individual self-builds.
As a family-owned business, our aim is to give you the best service possible. If you would like to know more about Lime Green and what we do, please call us on 01952 728611
And by working with other companies and organisations, as well as through ongoing research and development in key areas such as product chemistry, environmental assessment and historic building maintenance, we continue to make our products even better.
That's why our products are used on some of Britain's best-known historic buildings and ecological developments, as well as smaller projects and individual self-builds.
As a family-owned business, our aim is to give you the best service possible. If you would like to know more about Lime Green and what we do, please call us on 01952 728611
Lime Green Warmshell Internal Wall Insulation
Warmshell Internal Insulation is the complete, comprehensive method for insulating cold masonry walls from the inside. Carefully designed and tested as a system, it uses the remarkable ability of wood fibre and breathable lime plasters to keep your house warm, healthy and dry. Because we use sustainably grown wood, Warmshell is a very low carbon method of retrofit.
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Lime Green - New Mixing Plant 2018
มุมมอง 1K6 ปีที่แล้ว
The UK's leading manufacturer of lime based mortors, renders and plasters, Lime Green Products started building their new mixing plant in 2017...
How to use Lime Green Stipple Coat - a lime base coat, splatterdash or bonding coat
มุมมอง 12K9 ปีที่แล้ว
Lime Green's Stipple Coat prepares the wall providing extra adhesion for further coats of Lime Green Duro or Ultra. If internal or external masonry walls are very smooth or highly porous, then a standard lime base coat (also known as a splatterdash or bonding coat) may have difficulty sticking to the surface. Lime green Stipple coat will prepare them ready for the next coat of lime plaster or l...
How to use Coloured Lime Render from Lime Green Products
มุมมอง 25K9 ปีที่แล้ว
A "How To" video on Lime Green Product's range of lime based coloured renders. Lime Green Coloured Renders Our range of lime-based external render and decorative finishes give you the opportunity to enjoy the unique qualities of lime throughout your building project. From renovations and conversions through to new builds and developments, our Lime Render products offer high levels of flexibilit...
Pointing with Lime Mortar from Lime Green Products
มุมมอง 133K9 ปีที่แล้ว
A "How To" video on pointing with Lime Green Product's range of Lime Mortars. Our lime mortar and lime grout can be used for bedding and pointing brick, block and stone in a wide range of projects including building renovations, conversions, conservation work and eco-friendly new-builds. And because like all lime-based products they're ‘breathable', moisture within your walls can escape. Not on...
Does this work well if used to insulate the inside walls of an old stone barn conversion?
I would encourage people who live in a solid brick wall home to use this type of insulation because its cheap, easy to work with and is breathable. You need around 20mm minimum to make a difference.
i tried it but it did not work
Can you say what didn't work about it? I'm interested it using it myself.
I’ve not managed to get a consistent mix regardless. Also the video is very different to the actual instructions
Can you paint over this once its dry? Primer then top coat weathershield Dulux paint?
Like the sound of this. If I do an entire side of the house on 9" brick, what happens where the stairs or an internal wall meets the exterior? Is this a problem?
I am doing this myself too so will share what I found from researching, but please take it with a pinch of salt! In the case of an interior wall meeting the exterior, there is a recommendation of overlapping the insulation 300mm onto the internal wall to prevent cold bridging. In my case, I didn't have the space in the kitchen so went without it, but tried to ensure there were no gaps between the insulation of the external wall and the interior wall edge. For the staircase I don't think there is much you can honestly do, but I think you need to ensure the staircase can breath and is painted only with breathable paints, so if it collects moisture because of the cold, it will breath to dry itself and not rot. Moreover, wood is an insulator already so I expect it to act a bit like the wood fibre boards, so perhaps you would just insulate around it if there is space!
Thanks.@@brunogasparotto4284
i would love to witness this product be that creamy with 4 to 5 litres of water...its breadcrumb stage at that mix. I have tried various mix times and speeds on mixer and there is always spots of colour pigment dotted around the panels.
Ive just used this for the first time on a job and noticed the same thing
Poor Skills mortar to wet he is right handed so should point from right to left further compressing the last toolfull as he goes. He should also be creating a wedge shape on his hawk so the mortar goes all the way to the back of the joint.
I.
Never seen a claw hammer used with a brick chisel hey ho
Two more comments. 1. The mortar for sticking and pointing bricks cannot be stronger than bricks! The mortar is supposed to work and act as a cushion of stresses caused by changes in temperature and humidity. 2. You do not need to use steel bars to secure cracks that actually react with the highly alkaline lime mortar. Fiberglass reinforcements in the form of bars are available for sale. At the current prices of steel, composite reinforcements are cheaper than traditional ones ;-)
Use a pointing trowel...
No sand?
That's why it's called lime mortar...
This appears to be a premixed product.
Always remember to pack out the joint, unlike in this video.
Не рациональная работа при затирке швов
Decent products. A shame however that the tools/techniques in this vid aren’t as good. The mortar chosen for this job also looks questionable.
Please tell this is available in India i want it
Use pigments and mix in with your lime and do the job for half the cost
How do you secure hessian cover to the brickwork? I understand it needs weeks of protection from rain and wind. What's an easy way to secure hessian?
Put bricks on as to weights
Amazon.
@@ELLENFISHER2008 if the hessian is hanging vertically where are these bricks going? i'm guessing attaching it to the guttering somehow? 🤷🏻♂
@@MikeCarter we usually tie our hessian to the guttering and hang down then weigh bottom down to ground with bricks for example to stop it flapping or if gutter not available usually like long nails in top course hammered in to create a hook for the hessian
Terrible, do it old skool.
Didn't even wet the wall down on red brick, way too thick to make a proper lime rough cast/ dash coat. Its peeling off when tapping with a brush.. Anything lime based that you dont wet the wall first... Well it aint really lime.
This seems like a interesting product. Lime plasters with a colour pigment. It is very similar if not the same spec as K-rend application. As a lime plasterer in Suffolk/Norfolk where I do a lot of clay lump & timber frame houses I would only ever recommend a haired chalk or fiber chalk lime plaster to go on these types of buildings. I would only ever try a product like this on a solid brick construction. I do like the fact it's coloured and myself has clients ask all the time about lime plaster that is already coloured.
Cmkc
Can you mix hydrolic lime with lime putty so to quicken setting time ?
where we find this product in bolton?
Mortar for historic buildings should not be that wet when repointing. It should be drypack. You should be able to create a ball with the damp mortar. Also, the mortar needs to be PACKED into the joint, not lightly pressed in like that guy is doing. He's going to end up with air gaps inside the joints, and the outer mortar will just fall right off in short time. Don't cut the vertical joints with a grinder, or you end up cutting up the bricks like this bonehead did. Use a chisel! Yeah, it looks real good with vertical cuts in the bricks horizontal edges where they aren't supposed to be. Don't finish the joints until the mortar is thumbnail dry. You should barely be able to depress it with your thumbnail. Keep them damp by spraying afterwards, and cover from sunlight if the wall is in direct sunlight while curing.
Scott Mares thanks for adding your advice in your opinion is the brush finish necessary could we not just strike it with an iron like normal sand cement mix or would that not pure properly as the video suggests
Doesn’t hitting the joint with w Victorian churn brush compact the joints
@Welsh Simon think that's you
What a bonehead you are Scott. The video clearly explains that you should not use the angle grinder for the very reason you state. It then shows you an example, A 5 year old child could understand it.
@@SkillBuilder very disrespectful comment you are supposed to be a professional
I have specified this coloured mortar for a Norwich project, I was very pleased with the outcome and the contractors found it straight forward to use.
still good?
Good guidance for stipple coat applications.