White wire connected to a breaker should be taped red or blacked since its not a neutral, other than that everthing looks great, I like how you did the exposed portion in flex steel conduit and secured it to the hoist.
Thanks for the tip! I’ll put some tape on there next time I open the box. I thought about buying 10-3 so I had a red wire for the 2nd hot... but went the cheap route.
I really appreciate your video. I just had my new Atlas 10K installed and the very limited instructions did not help me with the Limit switch install. I would have liked to see how you installed and adjusted the limit switch as well. Instructions that I have are not very detailed. This is just what I needed to see. I will order a On / Of switch like yours as well. Thank you !
Thanks excellent video and professional detail. Really enjoy your videos without all the music, jokes and unimportant nonsense others include. thanks again!!
Sweet setup, I'm installing a 4-post lift at my house and this was very helpful in helping me decide how to wire the power unit. I'll be posting at least 3 videos about my install too, Thanks for posting.
Thanks, I ordered the switch and enclosure like yours. I was just going to put a single pole cut off but this is so clean and I like the hole I can put a hitch pin clip into. I won't need to lock it.
Very clean install! I do like the motor starter switch. I'll be honest, I installed my disconnect box and clips to the lift with good ol' fashioned #8 self tappers. They worked a treat, the columns are thick but soft.
I have the same Atlas lift and the cheap contacts inside the contactor intermittently welded shut! This kept the motor & lift running until it hit the upper bar limit switch. You mentioned that you installed the emergency shutoff in case the up button sticks, well it’s not just the button that could stick and in my case it was the cheap contacts in the white relay contactor. The contacts melted together.
Nice clean work! Im wiring a 220v lift today that is very similar. Nice explanation on the cut off switch wiring. Going to implement that into what i am doing!
thx for the video....i just had a the Atlas 9KOH installed...should have done it myself....anyways, I used your idea to add a switch. I mounted mine directly to the column and I used a 20amp switch and used 12 gauge stranded wire to a 20amp/220volt breaker.
My switch broke in the on position. Lucky for me when I put my lift in outside I only had one permanent 220 source (my well) so I just added an outlet with a cut off switch to my well and when I want to use the lift I plug it in so when the switch on the lift locked into the on position I just unplugged it. No it’s not technically to any code but when used only one appliance is used but works for me at my home where no one cares but me. I’m just glad I had the option to turn it off. It’s an old lift so no fancy interrupter switch. One day I’ll change it… Been saying that for 10 yrs….
Trying to put in a new button switch for the up and down of the lift and having problems getting the incoming power white and black wires to the line side of the pump and the normally open and common side of the button how do you wire the new button in is what I’m asking?
Electricians correct me if I'm wrong, but shouldn't this be wired with 10/3 using black and red as the two lines and the green as ground? White has no business being hooked up like this.
I went 30” from the wall to the base plate so I can roll a 24” cart through there. Since the columns are narrower than the base plates themselves, it leaves a lot of room to walk by holding a tire for example. The position is perfect for me. I have it set up to back cars in, and I’m really liking it so far. I would change the position of my lights, which are 6’ off the wall, because it’s creating a darker/shadowed area on the wall side when a car is lifted. They probably should have been 3-4’ off the wall.
Was the switch just an add on? Or did the lift need that to function. I'm wiring one up this week but I didn't see no switch nor was it mentioned. My plan was to just send power to it and thought it was controlled by the bar/lever thats already on the lift.. thanks for the help
I added the shutoff switch, as my breaker panel is quite far from the lift. The instructions for the lift recommended to add a switch, and most local codes require it. If the button on the lift sticks you have no way of stopping the motor without another switch close by. An exception would be if the breaker panel is very close to the lift. I recommend following whatever your local code prescribes.
If it only rises by 400 mm, Whether there is a safety lock. Whether the safety lock can work. This type of clear floor lift should have two limit switches, one for the column and one for the top. Finally, I am an lift manufacturer from China.
I don’t actually think there is another limit switch in the column because the motor doesn’t cut out when it gets to the top, the hydraulic cylinders are just maxed out. Just like a tractor when you reach the top of the travel with the bucket - the sound changes and you know to stop.
@@ShawnFerret Yes, but some novices don't stop. Rising again, again and again. The cylinder will break down. The limit switch of the column can protect the oil cylinder.
What do you use to get those bends so nice and square in the breaker panel? Great idea to label the wires with Romex insulation. I have a metal building so all my wiring is MC. Don't know what I could use.
did the switch need to be double pole to run both hots through it? my diagram that came with my lift only shows using one of the hots to go through the limit switch and also inline with the manual shut off switch same wire. i am about to do a rough wire up to run the pump and bleed the cylinders. still looking for a manual cutoff switch to use.
@@ShawnFerret you think it will get messed up with a single pole? cause that how it looks like the top out switch is wired up. only one of the wires run through that switch.
@@fashionrider712istunthi9 the limit switch just cuts the power signal from the up switch. If you add another shutoff switch there, it doesn’t protect for anything that could go wrong in the circuit board or relay, it only protects against the up switch sticking. So you would still run the risk of the lift running away and not being able to completely cut power.
I just like the look better when using a switch box. I would have used SOOW if I was making a plug at the ceiling - probably wouldn’t have been a bad idea. The MC was extra given to me by a friend so I never looked at prices.
Wow, nice catch. I had to go back and look at the video a few times. Honestly I’m not sure why I decided to do that in the moment - this was a few years ago. It would have been better to keep the colors matching but it doesn’t impact the function since they are both hot wires.
How do you like the shop size with the lift in? I'm starting to plan one and debating how wide to go to fit a lift, another car and have enough space to work.
I’m really happy with the 32’ width! The lift is spaced 30” off of where the interior wall will be, so you can still roll a cart between it and the wall. I still have room to go two additional cars wide next to the lift if I was just storing them. Even at 28’-30’ wide there would still be plenty of room for the lift and just one car with working room.
Some 220v motors can be rewired for 110v. I have a BEND-PAK that is currently wired for 110v, but I will be wiring it back to 220v for lower current draw.
The 30 amp breaker in the panel is the only load protection for the circuit. There is nothing to protect you from putting something too heavy on the lift, if that’s what you mean. I’m pretty sure this lift would bend or break the arms off before the hydraulics stalled out.
@@ShawnFerret I have a bend pak lift and it’s states there’s “no thermal protection” the inspector says I need to get a switch installed that is a starter for the the motor and provides a thermal protection for the motor itself. If the switch were to fail or draw too much power the newly installed switch would add protection for the motor. Much like a refrigerator or electric powered power washer. They have thermal protection built in.
@@ThomasJurk-tm3gr ohhh I see. The Leviton switch I installed is just a motor interrupt switch but doesn’t offer thermal protection that I’m aware of. There was no labeling on this lift that indicated it needed or lacked thermal protection. It seems like that would require a sensor on the motor? I’ve got no experience though, I’m just a DIY guy relying on my local codes, not a professional at all.
hi, wondering, my daughter is getting a lift for free (guy moved to place with lifts and current building will be taken down) it's been 'unprofessionally' rewired by previous owner but hey it's free... but we don't have 240 for our garage which is like 200 ft from the house and were thinking of getting a generator that can provide sufficient power as it's cheaper than laying proper electricity to the building plus she is just gonna use it once in a blue moon... more like car tire changes etc and fixing her car and maybe some friends, thoughts????
@@ShawnFerret thank you sir , I just ordered one off of Amazon that’s supposed to be a 30 amp double poll switch with the Sam box but it’s a different part number
@@HectorRamirez-bo9kv nice! I got mine from Amazon too. There was an option for the switch and box together as well. I just went with what shipped the fastest.
White wire connected to a breaker should be taped red or blacked since its not a neutral, other than that everthing looks great, I like how you did the exposed portion in flex steel conduit and secured it to the hoist.
Thanks for the tip! I’ll put some tape on there next time I open the box. I thought about buying 10-3 so I had a red wire for the 2nd hot... but went the cheap route.
How tall is your ceiling ,I'm getting ready to order a lift. A CL-2-9 KSCX 9000 Symmetric. Don't know which is better, I'll hope for the best.
It actually could be taped red, blue, brown, black, purple or orange. Any color but white or green.
@@TommyDMoore-vc8sl sorry I missed this comment until now. My ceiling height is 143.5” from concrete to drywall.
I really appreciate your video. I just had my new Atlas 10K installed and the very limited instructions did not help me with the Limit switch install. I would have liked to see how you installed and adjusted the limit switch as well. Instructions that I have are not very detailed. This is just what I needed to see. I will order a On / Of switch like yours as well. Thank you !
@@williamogrady6567 thanks! The lift installation company installed the limit switch and I didn’t make any adjustments to it.
Great walk through! Like the cutoff switch with the lock-out-tag-out groove, can't wait to see more
Thanks excellent video and professional detail. Really enjoy your videos without all the music, jokes and unimportant nonsense others include. thanks again!!
Thanks for the kind words!
Sweet setup, I'm installing a 4-post lift at my house and this was very helpful in helping me decide how to wire the power unit. I'll be posting at least 3 videos about my install too, Thanks for posting.
Thanks, Clint! Glad it helped and enjoy your lift.
Thanks, I ordered the switch and enclosure like yours. I was just going to put a single pole cut off but this is so clean and I like the hole I can put a hitch pin clip into. I won't need to lock it.
I hope the setup works for you! I only shut it off when I plan to be away for an extended time.
@@ShawnFerret I plan on using it similar to you. I just think it's a good extra line of defense. Thanks
Very clean install! I do like the motor starter switch. I'll be honest, I installed my disconnect box and clips to the lift with good ol' fashioned #8 self tappers. They worked a treat, the columns are thick but soft.
Best video on TH-cam about this! Thanks bud
Thank you! I appreciate the kind words.
The sexy voice makes it hard to concentrate on the video, but at the same time it's very informative. Let's get those lifts wired up guys!
😂😂
I've had a button stick and it caused damage, so this really should be MANDATORY if you want a lift.
Agreed!!
I have the same Atlas lift and the cheap contacts inside the contactor intermittently welded shut! This kept the motor & lift running until it hit the upper bar limit switch. You mentioned that you installed the emergency shutoff in case the up button sticks, well it’s not just the button that could stick and in my case it was the cheap contacts in the white relay contactor. The contacts melted together.
Good to know!!
Nice clean work! Im wiring a 220v lift today that is very similar. Nice explanation on the cut off switch wiring. Going to implement that into what i am doing!
Thank you!! Have fun with your install. I’m sure you will love it when it’s done.
thx for the video....i just had a the Atlas 9KOH installed...should have done it myself....anyways, I used your idea to add a switch. I mounted mine directly to the column and I used a 20amp switch and used 12 gauge stranded wire to a 20amp/220volt breaker.
Awesome! Glad the video was useful to you. I felt the same way on the install. Hope you have fun with your lift.
Very clean! Thank you for sharing.
Thanks!
My switch broke in the on position. Lucky for me when I put my lift in outside I only had one permanent 220 source (my well) so I just added an outlet with a cut off switch to my well and when I want to use the lift I plug it in so when the switch on the lift locked into the on position I just unplugged it.
No it’s not technically to any code but when used only one appliance is used but works for me at my home where no one cares but me.
I’m just glad I had the option to turn it off. It’s an old lift so no fancy interrupter switch.
One day I’ll change it… Been saying that for 10 yrs….
I thought about wiring mine to a plug as well. I think that’s a pretty good disconnect option too.
Great video! Surely helped a lot of people including me. Thanks.
So glad it helped!!
You make my day… thank you
Good job I'm about to install two of them this week and appreciate your video
Thanks! Good luck with the installs.
Thank you for the lecture
Great video, I am installing my lift in my garage next week. Does that 220 switch come in red like the furnace disconnects?
Great video and detail instructions.
Thank you!
Nice video great explanation thanks very helpful
Thanks, glad it’s helpful!
Never seen a relay fail closed but i guess you can never be TOO safe...
Thank you
Very good video
Thank you!!
Too technical for my brain, but very impressive!
Trying to put in a new button switch for the up and down of the lift and having problems getting the incoming power white and black wires to the line side of the pump and the normally open and common side of the button how do you wire the new button in is what I’m asking?
Can I have the drawing , what size of wire and cable did you advise
Electricians correct me if I'm wrong, but shouldn't this be wired with 10/3 using black and red as the two lines and the green as ground? White has no business being hooked up like this.
An electrician chimed in at the start and said the white wire needs to be clearly marked with red electrical tape.
What is the distance between the lift and your wall? Is that enough room to move around? Would you place it differently if you had to do it again?
I went 30” from the wall to the base plate so I can roll a 24” cart through there. Since the columns are narrower than the base plates themselves, it leaves a lot of room to walk by holding a tire for example. The position is perfect for me. I have it set up to back cars in, and I’m really liking it so far. I would change the position of my lights, which are 6’ off the wall, because it’s creating a darker/shadowed area on the wall side when a car is lifted. They probably should have been 3-4’ off the wall.
@@ShawnFerret Good thinking about the cart size.
Was the switch just an add on? Or did the lift need that to function. I'm wiring one up this week but I didn't see no switch nor was it mentioned. My plan was to just send power to it and thought it was controlled by the bar/lever thats already on the lift.. thanks for the help
I added the shutoff switch, as my breaker panel is quite far from the lift. The instructions for the lift recommended to add a switch, and most local codes require it. If the button on the lift sticks you have no way of stopping the motor without another switch close by. An exception would be if the breaker panel is very close to the lift. I recommend following whatever your local code prescribes.
nice job, how did the inspection go
I’ll let you know when they get here 😂
If it only rises by 400 mm,
Whether there is a safety lock.
Whether the safety lock can work.
This type of clear floor lift should have two limit switches, one for the column and one for the top.
Finally, I am an lift manufacturer from China.
I don’t actually think there is another limit switch in the column because the motor doesn’t cut out when it gets to the top, the hydraulic cylinders are just maxed out. Just like a tractor when you reach the top of the travel with the bucket - the sound changes and you know to stop.
@@ShawnFerret Yes, but some novices don't stop.
Rising again, again and again.
The cylinder will break down.
The limit switch of the column can protect the oil cylinder.
@@Car_Lift_Manufacturer neat feature.
How thick is the concrete under the lift post?
I have 6" under the lift. This particular lift only requires 4" though.
What do you use to get those bends so nice and square in the breaker panel? Great idea to label the wires with Romex insulation. I have a metal building so all my wiring is MC. Don't know what I could use.
I just bend the wires by hand inside the panel. It takes a little more time to make them straight and clean but it’s not difficult to do.
@@ShawnFerret looks really nice and straight. I have to try harder
did the switch need to be double pole to run both hots through it? my diagram that came with my lift only shows using one of the hots to go through the limit switch and also inline with the manual shut off switch same wire. i am about to do a rough wire up to run the pump and bleed the cylinders. still looking for a manual cutoff switch to use.
Yes it needed to be double pole for both hots in order to cut all power to the unit.
@@ShawnFerret you think it will get messed up with a single pole? cause that how it looks like the top out switch is wired up. only one of the wires run through that switch.
@@fashionrider712istunthi9 the limit switch just cuts the power signal from the up switch. If you add another shutoff switch there, it doesn’t protect for anything that could go wrong in the circuit board or relay, it only protects against the up switch sticking. So you would still run the risk of the lift running away and not being able to completely cut power.
thanks
No problem!
How to wire the limit switch on top ? Just 2 wires and wire to wire ?
It gets wired in series with the main switch circuit. The limit switch is normally closed and creates an open in the circuit when activated.
Any reason you used MC cable vs SJOOW/SOOW? Looks like MC is currently 2+x SOOW/SJOOW in NY.
I just like the look better when using a switch box. I would have used SOOW if I was making a plug at the ceiling - probably wouldn’t have been a bad idea. The MC was extra given to me by a friend so I never looked at prices.
I’m a rookie, why do you have the white/black wire swapped on each side of the switch?
Wow, nice catch. I had to go back and look at the video a few times. Honestly I’m not sure why I decided to do that in the moment - this was a few years ago. It would have been better to keep the colors matching but it doesn’t impact the function since they are both hot wires.
@@ShawnFerret thanks for clarifying for me.
How do you like the shop size with the lift in? I'm starting to plan one and debating how wide to go to fit a lift, another car and have enough space to work.
I’m really happy with the 32’ width! The lift is spaced 30” off of where the interior wall will be, so you can still roll a cart between it and the wall. I still have room to go two additional cars wide next to the lift if I was just storing them. Even at 28’-30’ wide there would still be plenty of room for the lift and just one car with working room.
Read the name of the switch and immediately thought of Larry Leavitt.
Yes! RIP!
Are all of those hydraulic pumps runs out of 220?
There are smaller hydraulic 2-post and scissor lifts that run off 110v. Dannmar MaxJax is a popular 2-post.
Some 220v motors can be rewired for 110v. I have a BEND-PAK that is currently wired for 110v, but I will be wiring it back to 220v for lower current draw.
Dangerous to have a white wire on power side, just tape it a power color. I knew others would say it after I watched your video.
What size of wire is used?
I used 10 gauge.
Where to get switch?
I got the motor cutoff switch on Amazon, it is a Leviton brand switch.
Hi Shawn,
How can I contact you?
You just did! I haven't had a compelling reason to list contact info on YT yet. Maybe that will change one day.
Can I have the drawing
Wrong wiring sorry, You need 10/3, here you don’t have neutral
Does this work as a over load protector?
The 30 amp breaker in the panel is the only load protection for the circuit. There is nothing to protect you from putting something too heavy on the lift, if that’s what you mean. I’m pretty sure this lift would bend or break the arms off before the hydraulics stalled out.
@@ShawnFerret I have a bend pak lift and it’s states there’s “no thermal protection” the inspector says I need to get a switch installed that is a starter for the the motor and provides a thermal protection for the motor itself. If the switch were to fail or draw too much power the newly installed switch would add protection for the motor. Much like a refrigerator or electric powered power washer. They have thermal protection built in.
@@ThomasJurk-tm3gr ohhh I see. The Leviton switch I installed is just a motor interrupt switch but doesn’t offer thermal protection that I’m aware of. There was no labeling on this lift that indicated it needed or lacked thermal protection. It seems like that would require a sensor on the motor? I’ve got no experience though, I’m just a DIY guy relying on my local codes, not a professional at all.
@@ThomasJurk-tm3gr also jealous of the Bendpak.
@@ShawnFerret thank you sir much appreciated!
I have volume all the way up and can barely hear u
hi, wondering, my daughter is getting a lift for free (guy moved to place with lifts and current building will be taken down) it's been 'unprofessionally' rewired by previous owner but hey it's free... but we don't have 240 for our garage which is like 200 ft from the house and were thinking of getting a generator that can provide sufficient power as it's cheaper than laying proper electricity to the building plus she is just gonna use it once in a blue moon... more like car tire changes etc and fixing her car and maybe some friends, thoughts????
A free lift sounds great! I don’t have any experience with generators. Hope you can find a safe solution.
Do you have a part number to the switch and box?
Switch: Leviton MS302-DS
Box: Leviton N13NC-DS
@@ShawnFerret thank you sir , I just ordered one off of Amazon that’s supposed to be a 30 amp double poll switch with the Sam box but it’s a different part number
@@HectorRamirez-bo9kv nice! I got mine from Amazon too. There was an option for the switch and box together as well. I just went with what shipped the fastest.
Can I have the drawing