Designing the WORLD'S BEST RESIN PRINTER
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 มิ.ย. 2024
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Buy your printers here (Alphabetical Order)
Anycubic Photon D2 - geni.us/PhotonUltra
Amazon - geni.us/AnycubicPhotonD2
Anycubic Photon Mono 2 - Anycubic - geni.us/PhotonMono2
Amazon - geni.us/AnycubicPhotonMono2
Anycubic Photon Mono X 6k S - geni.us/MonoX6Ks
Amazon - geni.us/AnycubicMonoX6kS
Anycubic Photon Mono M5 - geni.us/PhotonM5
Amazon - geni.us/AnycubicPhotonMonoM5
Anycubic Photon Mono M5s - geni.us/PhotonM5s
Amazon - geni.us/AnycubicPhotonMonoM5s
Elegoo Mars 3 Pro -shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=218327...
Amazon - amzn.to/3M3Mw45
Elegoo Mars 4 - shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=235104...
Amazon - amzn.to/48WLaC0
Elegoo Mars 4 Ultra - shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=235105...
Amazon - amzn.to/3tyz6a2
Elegoo Mars 4 Max - shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=233181...
Amazon - amzn.to/45tCvEd
Elegoo Mars 4 DLP - shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=232161...
Amazon - amzn.to/3FgVneT
Elegoo Saturn 8k - shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=218326...
Amazon - amzn.to/46MyCeI
Elegoo Saturn 2 - shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=218326...
Amazon - amzn.to/46I0xN2
Elegoo Saturn 3 - shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=235104...
Amazon - amzn.to/46Nxyr1
Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra - shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=235104...
Amazon - amzn.to/46mPNUl
Geeetech Alkaid: www.geeetech.com/365.html
Phrosen Sonic Mini 8k - www.kqzyfj.com/click-10054016...
Amazon - geni.us/PhrozenSonicMini8kS
Phrozen Sonic Mighty 8k - www.tkqlhce.com/click-1005401...
Amazon - geni.us/PhrozenSonicMighty8k
Phrozen Sonic Mighty 12k - www.dpbolvw.net/click-1005401...
Uniformation GKTwo - geni.us/Unfomation (Discount Code “FAUXHAMMER")
Amazon - geni.us/UniformationGKTWO
See all reviews (Alphabetical Order)
Anycubic Photon D2 - • What is a DLP 3D Print...
Anycubic Photon Mono 2 - • The LITTLE PRINTER tha...
Anycubic Photon Mono X 6k S - • Anycubic Photon Mono X...
Anycubic Photon Mono M5 - • Anycubic Photon Mono M...
Anycubic Photon Mono M5s - • Anycubic Photon Mono M...
Elegoo Mars 3 Pro - • The Sweet-Spot for 3D ...
Elegoo Mars 4 - • Elegoo Mars 4 9k Revie...
Elegoo Mars 4 Ultra - • Elegoo Mars 4 Ultra Re...
Elegoo Mars 4 Max - • Elegoo Mars 4 Max Revi...
Elegoo Mars 4 DLP - • Elegoo Mars 4 DLP Revi...
Elegoo Saturn 8k - • Why don't more people ...
Elegoo Saturn 2 - • Everything Wrong with ...
Elegoo Saturn 3 - • Elegoo Saturn 3 Review...
Elegoo Saturn Ultra - • Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra ...
Geeetech Alkaid: • Geeetech Alkaid Review...
Phrosen Sonic Mini 8k - • Phrozen Sonic Mini 8kS...
Phrozen Sonic Mighty 8k - • What Elegoo and Anycub...
Phrozen Sonic Mighty 12k - • Phrozen Sonic Mighty 1...
Uniformation GKTwo - • Uniformation GKtwo - B...
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For me the number 1 thing I really want is non-toxic resin, that's both safe for the user and the environment
I'm just wondering how many people are running these indoors with inadequate ventilation and slowly killing themselves with VOCs.
I've had mine for about 4/5 days with crappy ventilation and I don't see how people do it. I have a tent coming in and about to order a fan and hose. All resin printing is on pause until then.
I developed a nasty skin-allergy and sensitivity to resin and can’t resin-print anymore. Bye bye resin printers.
@@Weaver_Games definitely see some people posting pics in fb groups of them happily in their desktop rooms talking about how "they got used to the smell"
Agreed, I don’t think folks realise how toxic this stuff is
You hit the major things that we definitely want. One more feature I would like to become standard is that we have the ability to pull up the printer history and see what we've printed. When I'm printing models and I have multiple files, sometimes I forget which ones I've already done, it would be super easy to just go back and look at the history on the printer to see if I've printed that file yet but I've never seen it on any of them I've used.
The Saturn 3 Ultra actually has that, I just happened upon it while deleting some files I had save to it's memory. I don't know how many it will hold but it seem to have all the prints I had done so far.
I would personally love internal file storage on the printer and the ability to recover from power outages.
Hi, Ross... The thing with the ball mechanism instead of 4-screw I can explain very simple: theese ones are way more easy to clean versus 4-screw ones, where you always have either a lot of time taking resin off it or some resin left in all those cavities of usually 8 screws (4 for fastening the bracket to the plate itself)... or both )) Theese issues could easely be solved by manufacturers - yeah, by finally making "walls" along the edge of the build plate just like you stated in the video.
Also, the way that should cover be lifted is using of furniture hinges like four-joint ones. They have a lot of options on how the movement and rotation could be "transformed" the way that when the cover is fully lifted it won't go that much to the up or to the back.
The carbon filter circulation just should be turned on during the last for example 10 minutes of printing to not uselessly wear the filter off because you can't filter the fumes when they just continue filling the chamber, and when their concetration reaches full saturation level, the resin will just stop evaporating. Yeah, it works only when and if the chamber itself is sealed good enough.
Considering magnetic build plates... Sure, if they are available, it's really better to have them sticking really good, so they won't "release" from the magnet in case we have a large square of resin at the layer, but they are the only way to have something to be printed from the bed itself that can be very useful in case you aren't printing a miniature, but some engineering stuff. Not mentioning that you don't need to remove the build plate at all.
And just one more thing about the pixel size. I can't agree with you that pixel size lower than XXX doesn't matter. If you are printing miniatures that tends to have irregular surface, the pixel size just "diffuses" within the model form itselt. But try to print out for example a part of 1/35 truck model that have some regular flat surfaces that will have about 70-85 degrees inclination to the build plate, you'll get a very noticable aliasing since there gonna be like 10 to 1 regular pixel shift pattern. When I printed one of such on a 47 micron printer, it was very noticable. I mean that pixel size problem just doesn't appear on the models you print, so you mostly didn't get this issue.
As for the rest, a really nice video - even the title might sound a bit trivial, but IMHO you really pointed out things just as they are and they should be for the SLA printers. Thumbs up :-)
Ross, your deep dive into future resin printers has not only educated but also inspired. Your meticulous analysis and clear vision have earned you a lifelong subscriber.
Really appreciate your videos. Thank you so much for putting in all the work.
Yes yes and yes!
Thank you Ross you are awesome 💪🏻
Hope to see this implemented… well!
All solid points. Whoever makes this range of 3D printers would instantly dominate the resin landscape
You should use b-roll of the Black Forge Games wall mask more often. I just love it.
I should, it’s mostly my editors choice
Literally anything that would makes the process more user friendly! From the top of my head:
- an automated system to fill and empty the vat
- non toxic resin
- a faster way to change the fep that doesn’t require to unscrew and screw a million screws!
- a troubleshot system that stops the printing in case of failure
- everything you said
Dude! Right on! Agree with pretty much every item you addressed. Thanks for taking the time, really. 😊
Seeing as how you actually talk to the manufacturer, please make sure they ALL see this, please.
Again, thank you.
Incredible insight, Ross!!!!
Your deep dive into the future of resin printers showcases not just a passion for 3D printing but a clear roadmap for innovation. Your blend of technical critique and visionary outlook doesn't just speak to enthusiasts but serves as a crucial nudge to manufacturers. Here's hoping they take note and bring these ideas to life. Excited to see how these suggestions shape the next generation of printers!
I want this imaginary printer please
Easy removable flex build plate is the BEST thing I added to my Saturn Ultra 12k. Before, I was struggling so much removing 3d prints from the build plate, because they stuck to it like crazy. Now, its super easy...
So many great suggestions and application of Intuitive needs and examples of what insight from actual experience across many different companies technology should be used as a blueprint to move the industry forward.
Nice video! And very fair comments about those printers, that is why I like this channel so much! This guy really knows what he is talking about. And bought a reflex back in Sep, they worked incredibly well for printing minis, the most stable and easy to use printer I have ever had, saved me bunch time and effort on adjusting the printer. Money well spent for me
Thanks a ton,
Gotta be honest, your sense of humor had me click subscribe instantly! 😂🤣
Very new to the hobby with a second hand Photon S, so I can say from the reading I have been doing you hit most of the points I could think of. Good vid
Welcome aboard!
I agree with everything except one: resolution.
I don't know why everyone who prints miniatures focuses only on the details and forgets about the surface itself. In workshop practice, a surface roughness of Ra = 10µm is considered poor. A good smooth surface is at least 2.5µm. And if you want a shiny surface, you have to go well below 1µm. So in the case of 3D printers, there is still a long way to develop. Yes, I know, antialiasing, high resin viscosity, etc. But these are half-measures and everyone who has printed transparent items knows this. Moreover, not only miniatures are printed. Think about these beautifully designed objects, with contoured shiny surfaces decorated with matte inscriptions. Moreover, when it comes to figurines, the smoothness of the surface may also be important. Try printing a knight figure with shiny armor encrusted with ornaments. Or a glossy but studded skull. Due to these tiny non-gloss inlays, you won't be able to simply paint it glossy.
So I really hope that the technology will not stop at a measly 20µm, I will definitely be able to make use of 1µm voxels and even smaller ones. Not that I'm not happy with the current 30µm I'm currently getting. But the limit is definitely not 20µm.
Great video, thank you! I also like it the machine to copy's your printfile to the machine before printing like the gk2 does
A few of the things you mentioned like over exposing supports are better done in slicing than on the printer, and lychee can do this, so can UV tools with pixel dimming, Imo the best part of this is that curing supports more could allow for more brittle supports for tough resins that are usually too weak to print small supports. There is a difference between more cure time and intensity though, here I am talking about intensity which can only be varied between model and supports with pixel dimming which is why I say it's on the slicers not the printers. Alternativelty the printer could expose the supports and model and then stop exposing the model while it continues to expose the supports for longer. This would be a super simply way to print tough resins where it's hard to be dimensionally accurate while having good tensile strength, so you could find your exposure time for good strength with the cones and set that for support and use a different exposure time for the model set with a dimensional accuracy test (cones v3 is out soon and has both :0) For this to work either the printer maker could try to do something for it but imo it's again more up to the slicer. Why? well current printers are capiable of this if sliced right. All the slicer has to do is slice as normal, but then after each layer render a layer with just the supports and set it to the same layer height with no lift or a 10um lift (with most printers without changing G code a 0 lift defaults to a normal lift so 10um can be better), then that will expose the supports for longer, or they could just do pixel dimming which is already a thing as I said, either way it's more on the slicer, there is so much more that can be done on slicers, for example I heard ages ago that 3D AA only works on industreal printers, so I tested it and made a protptype 3D AA slicer and it works great on my saturn 1, the limitation is the slicer not the printer. Slicers could offer so much more but they are fairly limited, for example I've found through tests that lychess HD on AA does some sub pixel sampling but it's only a few samples unlike my 3D AA slicer which can do as many as I want on XY and also can do Z like some industreal slicers, the main difference here is that consumer slicers are made to run on the GPU so it slices much faster but can be limited as a result, meanwhile industreal slicers tend to run on the CPU and are designed to do take advantage of that.
Also UVT can make RERF like prints for any printer that supports per layer settings, it's too complex for most people tho. On the topic of intensity though, what the printers do NEED is UV light intensity controls, most printers today just can't adjust the UV light intensity so for combatting Z bloom you have to use pixel dimming which is good but on new printers with really bright lights it's not ideal to use by it's self because then you use way more power, generate way more heat which makes prints less consistient and wears out the LCD etc.
Also the thing about the using a cones test to figure out how much supports can hold isn't quite as simple as it seems because the results vary across different areas of the fep because that changes pull forces, and near by things change how pulls work which is why newer cones have walls to shield the cones from interferance, and the angle of supports affects stuff etc. So it's hard to go as into it as you want in terms of doing a test and then making auto supports based on that. imo just changing tip sizes is enough to compensate for different setups, eg weak flexy resins I don't use tips under about 0.2, with lychee .lys files I can quickly load minis with their supports and select by size and adjust.
Thank you for your very interesting and helpful comment. This is good to know!
These suggestions sound like the recipe for an amazing printer.
I have an anycubic mono 4k for almost 2 years now. I've had a fulament spring plate on it since i got it. I love it, it makes removing prints so simple. I have never had an issue with the spring plate slipping, moving, or pulling away. Every person I've known that had issues, had an issue with the magnet, and they had issues because they did not prep the build plate properly ( clean with alcohol, sand with 400 grit sand paper, clean again to remove sanding debris), or they did not follow instructions to leave the plate alone for 48 hours to let the adhesive fully set and cure before they tried to print with it.
Another potential problem is letting resin get between the magnet and the flex plate, which allows the plate to slip around sometimes.
It is the way. I'm so happy with mine.
I use a brewing belt as a vat heater in my Photon Mono X, it keeps my resin at 28C and Chamber between 20C and 22C depending on the ambient (East of England), the belt cost me £25.00 on Amazon and I can move it to my Saturn when I need to.
Like to see big brains in the comments. I've used one for a year or so and it was a game changer.
I've tested 9 Resin printers and have kept 2 - my original Creality LD-002H and my Anycubic Mono X 6Ks. I don't want to diss the ones I passed on, but the two that I kept simply work. While I love printing a mini or bust here or there, my printers are used mainly for prototype manufacturing. For the LD-002H, I use Syraya Tech's "Easy" resin. For the Anycubic, I use Anycubic's "Standard Resin +" and "ABS Like Resin +". If I was to consider a new printer, the GKTwo would definitely be the one.
Can you write down wich 9 you testet please? Or the other 7
Great video! I still don’t own a resin printer, mainly because I have enough miniatures already, but more importantly is that I don’t currently have a proper space to set it up where I can use it safely. You make amazing points in this video and maybe they will dial it in by the time I’m ready to own one.
Being new to the 3d printing thing to make models to practice painting minis and making dioramas, I went with the Bambu lab A1. Quality of resin printing looks awesome but I simply do not have the space and money to have lab level safety equipment, which I would need since I have a lot of allergies and I don't need another one (not to mention I don't want to kill my birds with the fumes). Also, I often see youtubers speak of "entry level 3d printer" but honestly, I don't want a first 3d printer, I want ONLY one. For me, it's like buying a regular paper printer: I don't want to have to buy a billion ones, I just want one that works.
Good choice and if you gone one that suits your needs, that’s always the best decision
OMG! I hope someone listens to you so I can finally buy my first and last resin 3D printer.
Yes to all of this. Us creators would love to be able to review something that has much of the friction that comes with multiple features that slow down the process reduced
Fantastic once again ! Can count on you for details
Thanks so much
Pretty much hit the nail on the head for perfect marks. This is basically what every company should be aiming for.
Yep, let’s see who does it
thanks for the amazing analysis you the one finaly say every truth. greets from germany
What a great video!
The only advantage to the non hinged lid is that when using they do a pretty good job at sealing out the resin fumes. Especially if you leave resin in between prints like I do.
Love your channel. Good job!
Cheers
Yea, a rubber seal would be important.
I just want an easy workflow. The original Saturn prints as good as I need it too. However, I would like to see some more innovation in autofill and resin emptying/storage.
Pretty much everything you said is exactly what I want in a resin printer.
I know it is probably unrealistic, but if they could get all of that what you described in a printer for £600 or less it would dominate the resin 3D printer space for years.
They probably wouldn't even need to make any upgrades.
Hey there. Happy late new year.
Im currently struggling with cold temperatures at my printing area. (In between 5°c and 12°c)
I read in a few places that by just preheating the resin prior to printing to around 28°c would be enough as the heat would be retained due to the heat released by each layer cured.
Have you tested anything related? Your intel is as always well appreciated
Wonderful ideas. What I often mention in surveys is providing reasonable accessories. Plate drip holder, vat lid, a small rubber window scrapper to mix resin instead of weird brushes etc., stick an simple thermometer sticker to the vat, add nitrile gloves rather than latex or worse gloves, add a screen protector foil in form of a tablet protector, but cut to size - and spares. Add a silicone mat for under the printer. Add a camera or camera mount inside the lid, so you down drown in fumes when doing a time-lapse. Anycubic apparently introduced a sensor for print errors which sounds quite nice too. I see many improvements in Halot Mage that I suggested in surveys (resin feed, fumes exhaust - much better than simple air filter, uv-proof lid for printing in sunlight, higher motor speed and more powerful light source), so I'm hopeful. Especially upgrading accessories I imagine would cost close to nothing when compared to printer production, but provide awesome benefit, especially for beginners - and cut much of the initial setup time.
The true REVOLUTION will come (if ever) when they come up with resin that does not have toxic fumes and is safe to work with. That is all I need and ask for.
For the different exposure time for the object and support, you can do it in Lychee Slicer, but it's compatible with only very few and old 3D printers using CWS file format (old Nova 3D, WanhaoD7, etc...). The restriction is not on the printer hardware, but on the file format and firmware...
Fantastic resin printer feature wish list @fauxhammer I am also lucky enough to have a HeyGears printer and it has been a joy to print with. But those other features you were saying would be a dream printer one day. Imagine being able to turn your printer on, and it just prints what you want it to print lol. Apart from having room to print, wash and cure, having a printer that takes a lot of the guess work out will bring a lot more people into resin printing.
I used to work for a start up company that did a conveyor belt style resin printer that would indefinitely print in an axis, I wish there was a consumer version of that but it was very complicated for mass production.
Very good points, I would love to have a printer ticking all these boxes.
But I think you miss one important feature of higher resolutions, and this is why I hope the race is not over: texture!
With resolutions up to 40μ you get a matt finish, with the best available resoulution now 19/24μ it is getting semi-gloss, and with 10μ and less we might be able to print glossy surfaces (and matt surface on the same model as well). This will be an obvious visual improvement.
Well this video had some information in it that will change how I resin printing, especially on these newer printers. I like fast printers but will not chase that dog because it mostly kills the looks. Looking at my setting I will be changing the AA to the lower setting. I typically print at 50um I’m moving that down to 30um. Just because of this video. I can do that because most of my printers will easily print that or close to that. I think this will be the year that resin printer will make a huge leap forward on there higher end printers which will flow down to the smaller size printers. Not everyone needs A GK2 or Saturn 2 or one of the bigger size printers. Great video thanks.
Great video!
I’d love it if you did one of these hypothetical videos for wash and cure stations. I know you don’t love reviewing them because they’re all the same mostly but, what would you/ the masses like to see from wash and cures moving forward. At the end of the day it is an important aspect of this as a hobby
Hi, have you compared the GK2 and Phrozen sonic mega 8ks? Any thoughts on which one is best would be appreciated. Thanks for all of the content!
I'm relatively new to resin printing. Love it but using a cheap printer and want to upgrade. After countless videos and such I came down to the heygear reflex or gk2. Would love to get ur opinion or anyone elses. Price obviously speaks as well but don't mind it.
Bambu Labs are gonna love this video @BambuLab
Thanks for your video
Thanks for your comment as always
Good points across the board. My ultimate printer is a full color bottom up machine. I'll get back to it soon, but if you check out the Mimaki 3DUJ-553 (something I came across while researching solutions), I certainly wish they'd make a consumer-grade version with two zeros less than what that one goes for.
Thinking about it, the lower chamber heater like the GK two is better than a vat heater. A lower chamber heater heats the part of the resin you want. A vat heater heats your model to while they are submerged in resin.
all I want is a non toxic resin that is food safe. A resin that can be put in an aquarium to decorate my aquarium. make utensils, bowls, cups, pots for plants,
I'd like the companies to have suggested PWM settings for the printers. My original Mega 8K had a massive bleedthrough problem until I realized I could turn down the intensity setting to help prevent it on larger prints. Or have a masking layer that can handle the full power would be nice.
Hi Ross
Could you create a video explaining the difference in light sources between COB and matrix? Some argue that a superior light source is more significant than screen resolution. Thanks
I like the specs. I think a built in flex plate bed would be great. I remember seeing a video of a printer that also had an automation which allowed it to auto clear the print bed for print farming. Personally the magnetic flex plates haven't made any difference for me from a regular bed they just cost way more to get into the system.
That is the Formlabs printer that has this, really cool!
Waiting for a fully isolated and well ventilated printer
You really nailed almost everything. Hope some manufacturers listen to this, especially those who are so close to having the perfect printer.
Only disagreements I have is the wifi, it's fine on the back, and the orange cover, that just clashes with my room, prefer blue, purple, or grey.
It would also be nice to see square screens, rather than rectangular, and larger sizes. I think too many of these manufacturers are just re-using screens from other devices, rather than having a purposely created screen.
DLP would be awesome, but the cost of that may still be a bit high.
How about we get one with a choice of colour Chassis like a Nokia 3310?
@@FauxHammer One thing I've wondered about the transparent coloured plastic, Why the colouring?
They are designed to prevent UV light from outside the chamber from curing resin inside the chamber.
So why are so many in different colours? Isn't it just a film on there, like we have with home windows?
Dark colours, especially red and blues, would do the best job at blocking UV, but we see lots of other colours like yellow, orange, and green that aren't ideal colours for blocking.
So I wonder if this would be a good video topic, how UV blocking works on resin printers.
General optional extras would be my 1 request, several things you mentioned cold just be upgrades that we could buy once we got started, at least forthose of us who aren't rich and have to prioritize.
good stuff
Great video
Great vid. Also i fullly agree on the elegoo plates🤮
A heated vat, Amen.. though I've been using a fermentation belt and it works perfectly even in lower than 15c though it takes longer to raise and I have a hard time getting the resin over 78f. I also have a chamber heater but I only use it to warm the chamber right before the print or if I need to open the chamber tk bring it back up quickly and shut it off when it reaches the desired temperature.. I find once the resin hits the desired temperature once the print begins you generally don't need to leave it on since the print process holds the resin temp unless it's under 50c. The fermentation belt though is a cheap kit. it's energy efficient and it is relatively low risk
On a wish list they should have an extractor fan with a 4"ducting connection so the fumes can be extracted and vented outside.
I'm most looking forward to seeing how Athena performs and whether it makes a big difference to the direction printer development goes. Who doesn't want more intelligence in addressing the biggest area of uncertainty/risk there is with any resin printing... how the the fep and build plate interact during printing. Monitoring this in a useful way seems like such a rich avenue for development. Uing tech to remove the human error risks of crashing something in to your vat, whilst at the same time getting feedback to on the fly tailor the printing process feels like it should be a big leap forward - I hope it is.
I'm not convinced a vat heater alone is enough tbh. The printer heats the resin to perfect temp and starts printing, then immediately dumps a large chunk of very cold metal in to it... I know it takes longer for a heated enclosure to get the resin up to temp, but at least that giant heat sink is also going to be at the same temp when it enters the resin. Nothing wrong with a vat heater, but I think more gneral heating is kind of important and not just a nice to have.
exposing supports more would also help address the issue of more flexible resins where support pillars are flexible enough that the partial print smacking in to the resin pool can bend them slightly out of place creating anything from slight layer imperfections to complete failures. You can of course just calibrate your exposure to address this, but its actually a nice idea to only do so for the bits you need it for, the supports.
Agree with everything you said
Bambu Lab will do the Thing 😂🤙🏻
Affordable jet fusion would be glorious.
Thanks for great video. The problem I have is if you add some of these changes etc, this will drive up the cost. Some of us love 3D Printing and enjoying these home printers etc. But must say love some of these ideas, makes logical sense.
Magnets built into the build plate. With a flex plate on top of them. Maybe a plastic or metal latch to keep the plate in place.
What’s the consensus on the Heygears? Is it worth the money they’re asking for?
I'm not suuuuuper sold on the vat heater yet, as opposed to heating from underneath the vat. That's because I remember years ago on Reddit that some guy tested out by heating his vat and measuring the temperature. And he found out that the resin in the center of the vat will eventually cool down, while the edges of the vat remain warm. Unless you can somehow mix the resin throughout the entire print duration, you might end up getting some inconsistent prints.
I'm feeling special as one of the 7 people who's never had issues with the ball mount on my Mars 3 or Saturn 2 8k.
As for filters - the one in my Saturn is making noise - I'm sure it's an issue with the fan. I print in my garage so when I'm taking the lid off I've got both doors open and a nice breeze blowing to carry away the fumes.
USB - front only. I don't want/need Wifi/ethernet on my printers but then I'm only printing for myself.
I can't believe you didn't bring up the dynamic wait time that Athena is using with the build arm sensor.
Otherwise, fantastic video - especially the different support exposure time.
Until I get hands on, I can’t calculate the value. But I am excited for it.
@@FauxHammer The feature most people pay attention to with the concept of a force sensor is how much time you can save with shorter lifts, usulally you have to make sure every lift releases so you need a high lift height, force sensors could allow for the lifts to be far lower for 90% of layers. For example I just got a saturn 3 ultra and by manually tweaking lift heights and placing puck at the edge of the pate I managed to print a 28 minute 50um puck, with a different resin i could do under 20 mins, this usually takes 2-3 hour and while I did use fast lifts, most of the time saved was by using lifts between just 1.5-2mm, I used a thing in UV tools to vary the lift height based on the surface area but it's very rudementaty so I had to do multiple prints and listen to the fep releases to get it this low. With a good force sensor theoretically this could just happen on every print first time.
However Andrew here is right to point out the wait time aspect, this is far less appriciated than the dynamic lifts, but it's just as handy. Most people use 5-15x normal exposure for base layers, without knowing it people use such long base exposures because the printer doesn't have time to push the resin to the right height, the inisial layers could be 6x what they should be and it lasts for about the first 1-2mm due to the plate surface area, this is why some bigger printers have holes in the plates. this also happens on any part of a print with high surface area and especially hollow things because then the print it's self can flex out and cause blooming which can be fixed by using longer wait times or just adding a hole for the suction cup or even a more ridgid printer can just do better with this. I use 2-3x normal exposure over just 2 burn in layers I can do this because I do very long wait times like 40s for the first 0.5mm and then slowly transition to normal times, This adds up to 15mins at 50um and double that at half the layer height so it can waste some time but it means better print reliability and it means I can directly print things without elephants foot or warping, I've even been able to print some of my mini chain mail direct to the plate with IIRC 1.6mm wide rings. I do this in UV tools and it has ways to do dynamic wait times for the whole print but again it's just guessing, very rudumental, a good force sensor could just wait until the force is settled and then print on every layer, base or normal alike which would result in ver better printing results because there would never be layer lines due to suction cups or high surface area or just low wait times. Now your right that you need to try athena before knowing how well it works but this is theoretiaclly what it can do
Any predictions on the next big breakthrough in resin printer and which firm will produce it?
Fun subject. I'd add one more vat feature: no sharp inside corners. Put a nice fat radius on those corners to make them easy to clean. This is one of my few gripes with the GK2. I find myself just giving up and not always getting the vat completely clean on that printer.
I've said this before on several channels including this one. Now that we have micron resolution smaller than the human eye can detect, I really think manufacturers will turn to these sorts of features in order to tempt us into upgrading. Because going from 24 micron to 12 micron res is not going to make a discernable difference except in increasing the time to print.
So we'll start to see app control, and wifi, and resin heating, and better UI's and so on and so forth, focused on making the user EXPERIENCE as good as it can be.
Would be great to see a FormLabs review on your channel, since you've got so much experience with such a diverse range of machines, it'll be nice to see how a top of the range printer compares to all the other printers you've already tried.
A large number of the features he said he wants are originally from FormLabs printers (not Uniformation, HeyGears, etc) or on FormLabs. So he’d probably end up saying that other than the price, a FormLabs printer ticks all the boxes. ;)
@@johnanderson2197yeah nearly every feature he mentioned wanting except the camera Formlabs has.
I’m moving in the other direction, we use 5 formlabs machines at work but resin costs are starting to get to the point ($8k a month) that it justifies spending engineering time to identify a cheaper resin/printer combo cause we could spend 40-50$ a liter instead of 200
Wish DLP’s would get more love, would like to see the mars 5 DLP.
You're really missing out on flex plates! I've been printing for three years and have had only one instance of the magnet peeling off, and even then it was only the corner and I caught it before any issues.
Used two part epoxy to adhere it back, and never had an issue since. Don't listen to the complaints, it makes life so much easier!
I know I'll have no issue with it, but my community will, I complain when a brand makes us put a printer together, like the Nova 3D hinges. So I'll complain if brands don't pre-fit these
@@FauxHammer They will? Seems like a silly thing to complain about, it's unbelievably simple. Even if companies don't pre-fit these on, Wham Bam makes these precisely to fit.
The only annoying thing about them is having to wait a couple days after initial installation for the glue to cure and fully adhere. I personally recommend these to anyone getting into 3D printing, so I'm surprised when people don't feel the same.
You hit a lot of the points that resin printers desperately need (and should have had years ago). Resin printers (mechanically) are so dead-simple compared to FDM that it's absolutely criminal we're still getting garbage without auto-leveling, vat heating, wifi-connection and remote management, controller boards not sold by a single monopoly who wields that power to hamstring us with locked down firmware and slicers, etc. I guess the good part about where we're at is that there's so much low-hanging fruit available for new entrants to the market to innovate on. I don't even think all of these things together would be a "Bambu Labs" reinvention moment, it's just common sense and honestly depressing that consumer SLA is still in the dark ages.
That said, here's my wish list for a slightly longer timeframe to bring resin printers into the modern age:
- Reinventing the vat/film system. Like you mentioned, the current films are fragile, finnicky, a huge pain to replace, and extremely messy. We need something that isn't ruined immediately if you press a plastic tool too hard trying to remove stuck bits of a broken print.
- Automatic filling/draining of resin from a vat. I know you mentioned vat filling systems, but draining is even more important for limiting the effects of resin fumes. Having a container (or multiple, like... an AMS) for resin to be pulled from for a print and then drained back into after a print is finished would go a long way towards limiting the fumes produced by heated resin that's "at-rest" (but still off-gassing) before and after a print is complete.
- Automatic print removal and cleaning. FormLabs has made progress on this front with their FormLabs Automation attachment. But their design could be improved. I'm imagining a finished print container filled with a cleaning solution (IPA or whatever) which the print drops into after being removed from the plate. That would be the holy grail for part printing, and the presence of cleaning fluid should soften the fall from the plate enough for most small to medium sized miniatures to survive. The cleaning solution could be agitated just like in a normal wash station for a user-defined amount of time, then the dirty solution could be drained into a "dirty" receptacle. If robot mop makers can do it, so can printers.
- Much better software and slicer integration. You touched on this, as well, but the thing that would drastically change my old resin printing workflow would be better algorithms for determining automatic supports. Currently we do everything based on overhangs, but support dynamics are just as much based on the size and weight of a model and the adhesion of the most recent layer to the film. We have all the data we need to be able to calculate approximate stresses, we just need to write the code to identify where thicker and more stable supports are needed. I haven't been printing with resin in the past ~6 months, so maybe this has improved since I last used Lychee. But given that Ty over at TableFlipFoundry is still spending his days teaching resin printer owners how to add supports by hand I sort of doubt it.
I acknowledge that a printer with these features would be pricey - more "prosumer" than consumer level - and some segments of the resin printer market will never want to pay $1000 for a printer. But one thing Bambu Labs showed the FDM printer market was that people will pay to not have to tear their hair out over a bargain $150 printer. I'd gladly pay $1000 or even $1500 for a resin printer that I could "set and forget" which is also much safer to operate due to the lack of a bucket full of liquid resin constantly producing harmful fumes and waiting to pollute my living spaces as soon as the lid opens.
For the voxels: actually pixels are not touching and have space between. Also we are talking about light curing an transparent medium. The light is bleeding. So even if you have a 70 micron pixel - the cured result will be bigger like the perfect pixel got a halo around. This would be like overextrusion on fdm but it is also needed to attach neighbored pixels.
You cant get away from it.
Nice feature list, which I pretty much agree with. The only thing I see a problem with is the resin autofill; the resin needs to be in a tank which has a stirrer or paddle to prevent the resin separating if not agitated.
God point
Okay now you all know what you need to do, get on it!
I’m a little surprised that you didn’t do a video like this earlier… Well, in a way I suppose you already have. By making suggestions for manufacturers in allll of your previous films.
I often wonder why companies simply don’t do the obvious. I settle on “money” probably being the issue. Not that they don’t have enough, but that “someone” is saying “this is good enough, put it out there so we can get paid at the least expense”. It’s a sad reality. But to your point (I don’t know if you actually said it or not) make the printer and give us the option to add on the extra goodies. We will buy them. We will use them. We will make better prints and continue to buy YOUR product.
They just have to do it first. I hope they hear you, Ross. Good work.
I don't know if this is a new printer or not but a similar one with a flip-up lid in my opinion even though I haven't used it quite yet but it is the creality halot mega
I'd add to this make the vat something you can put down without the FEP touching the surface. Four little stand-offs would solve this and additionally those stand-offs could go into the printer so you know you're properly aligned.
The very first anycubic printer had a door and I don't know why they and everyone else ever got rid of that. It's such an easy and practical solution.
Did you ever get your hands on the Prusa SL1S? Is the semi-pro price justified? it still has some features like the moving tank i didnt see on any "lower" price printers. Thanks for your videos learned a lot from them - I have 7 corexy printers, but want to get my feet wet in SLA printing soon :-)
It has a tiny build area...
God I wish some printer manufacturers would listen to this advice.
a 3d printer that suspend the resin mid air using ultrasonic sound , the models already can be converted to point clouds that are then converted to sound wave, now either it will be built by layers to have the possibikity for internal parts or as all model and then lasers will harden the part .
Agree with what you said. ALL calibration models should be built into the printer. Printers also need a temperature sensor and tell you whether your print is gonna fail, or include a heater. Whenever you have a new resin, the printer should have a button that simply say "I got new resin!" and it'll make various test prints and ask you to tell the printer which one performed best so it'll remember which resin in what temperature performed best.
you covered all the major points, what i would like is a heated tank where you can also have an airtight lid you can clip onto the top so where you want different resins or colours, you can just remove a tank, put the lid on and put a different tank straight onto the bed. this would save A LOT of time and mess
I am waiting to purchase my first resin printer but I dont have the money to make the same mistake I did when I bought my FDM printer. thank you for your reviews. I will follow closely as I learn more.
Thanks so much
whats the name of the 3d printer that compete with ultracraft and that printer can get upgrades in there parts
Great video - while some of the features are NOT a priority for my workflow (I just set the lid on the floor next to my chair, while I take off the prints - easy peasy) - this video was filled with a ton of great ideas.
Side note: I think a lot of folks are missing the biggest benefit of ACF film.
No, it is not the speed that I think is most important - it is the property that makes the speed possible.
Prints don't stick to ACF as much as other film.
That - is a game changer right there.
Sure, it means you can pull away faster - but what it really means - is for the masses who are NOT experts on redoing supports on models - that we have LESS FAILED PRINTS.
For me - speed is nice, quality is important - but LESS FAILED PRINTS.
There is a joke in one of my hobby groups about getting into resin printing "I am getting really good at printing supports....".
I would love to see you put some ACF on the GKtwo - and see how that works out.
Regardless of my love for successful prints over everything else - this was a great video; thank you for making it and sharing it with the community.
Hopefully, we will see many of your valuable ideas incorporated into more printers.
Ive had ACF on my GKTwo for almost 6 months.... I print larger models and the ACF almost doubled the speed I can print. If I was doing Mini's I wouldnt use ACF I think. When it comes down to printing at.03 or less I did notice a difference.. The ACF is a big player when your going bigger on the models. It does decrease the quality of mini's BUT i found out the thickness of the ACF vs the thickness of a NFEP or others is almost the same if not exactly.... so what I did was buy another vat and have ACF on one and PFA on another... If Im going to print mini's I just switch out the tray... no relevel required. In my slicer i have two printers set up with the lift speeds and such adapted to the film.. I just have to remember which one is which. On the front of the vat I actually mark what film is on them.
@@theanimearmy9205
Thank you for your comment.
I like the GK two, but I don't know how much I like the clip system that holds the vat in place. One of my GK two's pops the vat forward a couple of millimeters once a print starts... It still works but I'm pretty sure that's not supposed to happen. My other gk two, and maybe I'm doing it wrong, but you can hear the vat, not just the fep, move during printing. Being lifted up and dropped back down. Maybe I'm just doing it wrong when I replace the fep, making it too tight, ldk.
Build it Faux, they will come...(buy it) I know I would.
Your awesome for making this video. Making us all dream for the future.
I noticed my m5s heating up the resin during printing. Started having fails when the temps dropped and when I touched the resin (with glove obviously) when cleaning the vat (the cured sheet) it was nice and warm
Yeah you’ll get some heat from it yeah and when ambient temp drops, you need to redo all exposure tests
Please help, wat is the best option for a completely new NEVER used one before printer. Price is under £400 and it’s for printing armies for the old world so models and some scenery. Help needed and the reviews looked at 😁
I want a 20k DLP Jupiter with a heated vat and auto resin refill for those 50 hour prints.