This is a fantastic tutorial. It is not something I had even considered and I edit in Lightroom virtually every day. This will definitely be on my new process list. Thank you so much.
There are so many times that I try to post process my Fuji camera photos with the film style created by the camera but I can never quite seem to capture it. With this new feature I might be able to. Thank you for presenting this.
Thanks so much for sharing this information. This is what I have been looking for, will be very helpful and speed up my process. I like to spend my time with my camera and not my laptop.
Really well done, thank you, Matt. I will create a develop setting based a Passport Colour Checker. I'll try to make this one of the first things I shoot when I get new equipment or change workflow. If I understand correctly, I am matching a known colour source and you are matching the camera style we see in the back of the camera and jpegs. I imagine I could add an additional preset that added the jpeg look chosen in the calibration selection. Keep up the great work, Matt! Have a great day, Rick.
Very informative video. Do you know if there is anyway to do this or something similar with an earlier non CC version of Lightroom (Lightroom 5)? I totally agree that sometimes the preview looks awesome but very quickly it becomes flat and lifeless. It can take a lot of tweaking to replicate that look individually as well. I shoot RAW and JPG but due to the limitation of my version of Lightroom not supporting my newer Nikon DSLR I also have to convert the files to DNG format prior to editing.
Thanks Matt, clear and concise as always. Would a custom camera prrofile (created with a Color Checker Passport) solve this problem? Just like the profiles included in LR, you can apply your custom calibration as a preset. Cheers, Dan Moynihan
Great video Matt. One question. How can I apply multiple presets during Import? I want to apply the jpeg preset I just learned from Matt and a lens correction preset.?
No. pick any image, choose your camera calibration option ... then go to add the preset, and unselect everything shown - then choose the calibration and lens correction options - and save it with some name you like. Same net effect has having 2 presets... use it on import and you're there.
Helpful and clear as usual Matt! Do you subscribe to the notion of shooting in RAW and having your camera set to FLAT - as that gives you the most realistic histogram when looking live in your LCD in the field? Or do you typically choose an appropriate profile for your Sony based upon what you are shooting? Thanks for sharing your expertise!
Hi Alan - yes, I shoot in raw and make any adjustments myself in post. I don't look at the histogram so I can't speak much to that. I just turn on the blinkies in camera and if it blinks at me I know I have a problem. If not, I'm good :-)
I've seen (and found from personal usage) that the histogram (and hence, the blinkies) are based upon the cooked image - meaning, the one adjusted based upon the profile. By setting it to FLAT it helps to get rid of "false positives" - meaning, the contrast added (for example) by a landscape profile may end up pushing some of the highlights up which might result in blinkies which may cause you to underexpose more than necessary. Of course, with the modern DSLRs and their ISO invariance capabilities that's not usually a problem... ;-)
I know that I shouldn't be asking this as it will probably make me look like a dummy but that seems to be an awful lot of trouble to make a raw file look as good as a jpeg.
No problem if it doesn't work for you. it's a 7 minute video and I'm teaching. If I had to do that myself from start to finish, it would take about a minute or so, so it's not really investing a lot of time. And then you have a preset so you're good to go :-)
Meto thats a great point you bring up. Heres the reason behind shooting raw: It gives you the power to create almost any look. If you mess up you can fix a lot more things in RAW and almost nothing in JPEG. What Matt does here might sound like a lot of steps but you could learn something about a setting that could help you way down the line. Knowing your tools inside in out is key. Learning new ways to edit is growth
Thank Matt. As always very useful tips! I have a question though.... if I shoot Raw and JPEG with say landscape style calibration, do you import both sets of files and then apply the appropriate calibration to just the Raw files, but using the JPEG as the sample, or do you just import the raw and ditch the JPEG's, using them only to see what the image is like on your camera's screen . Hope that makes sense 😊
Brian The image you see on the back of your camera is a JPEG image generated by the camera so you can view what your image looks like. The camera generates this image for viewing no matter what settings you choose for images saved to your card(s). I would bet that Matt shot the images for the video and chose RAW and JPEG in camera for exporting. Once he has the preset made he probably changed the setting to RAW only and applies his landscape preset during import. By doing this all of his newly imported images look like the Landscape JPEG and this gives him a better starting point for further editing. Many people do shoot both RAW and JPEG if they have an immediate need for the image. Examples may be to share with someone or post on social media before you have time for full editing.
Thanks for the video, however after shooting with my A7 III I only see versions 1 through 5 listed under calibration, none of which produce anything like the results you show in this video. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
why not just look what profile is set in the camera?? (Or in the Exif info; may be dependant on the Manufacturer) Can I ask if you do this?? I knew that but have a hard time deciding if I want to do it. Caz I found their are almost as many cases were I find it advantages to start from a flatter rendering. For me working on files starting from Camera Landscape tend to get an over-processed over saturated look very quickly. And why do the work of pulling it out afterwards by hand. Would you want that applied e.g. for a Portrait?? Of cause other times it saves some time. But really not that much . I Found for nikon its a little bit of Contrast and about 31 of Vibrance and you are their. And moving the sliders takes a few sec. P.S. At the same time I also though about using Camera Neutral as an default.... Hoping the color representation would be better then Adobe Standard... But in the end I sticked with Adobe and just switch in manually for a very few cases when I cant get the results I want.
An easy to understand tutorial, but, why would you want all your beautiful RAW files to look just like JPG's? Isnt this defeating the object of shooting in RAW?
How so? You still retain all the data in shooting raw which is the purpose of shooting raw. Using the camera profiles is a nice starting point if you like any of the looks of any of the camera profile presets. Once set, you edit further from there. One thing I miss when editing my a7rii raw files is the ability to use those sweet canon color profiles for good looking skintones as a starting point. I miss canon colors..
For me it doesn't defeat the point. The point of shooting raw is that I have access to pull back the highlights or open the shadows and change exposure a lot more than I do with JPG. It's not the "look" that makes raw good or bad - it's the flexibility.
So on your next shoot you take some pictures of say your partner or your pet and they are all imported processed as vivid? No thanks its like processing them twice over. Surely the whole point of RAW files is that you can push them further in post and process them individually depending on the picture content. Not to have them processed twice. Perhaps we should agree to disagree on this one.
The whole point of RAW files is that you have a lot more data to (yes) push them further in post... but only if necessary. JPEG isn't a crippled format, it's actually pretty good, and it's possible to make very good JPEG files out of camera. So, utilizing the extra data and pushing files further in post isn't always necessary (and in fact it's necessary for only about 5% of the time - unless maybe you shoot landscape all the time, the extra DR can be useful then). (There's also the possibility for better noise reduction and sharpening but that doesn't seem to be the issue here.) And ultimately, the dude's just talking about when you find your RAW files too bland. He's not talking about the entirety of image editing.
"the dude's just talking about when you find your RAW files too bland" I think that your missing the point here, RAW files by nature are going to be bland, because they are unedited, if you shoot RAW then they have to be edited and surely no one wants to edit their photos to look just like a jpg, there would be no point shooting in RAW. IMHO youre better off learning how to record actions in PS to add saturation, sharpening and contrast etc than learning how to add a preset to make it look like a jpg. No one would buy a race car and then tune it to run like a production road car would they? I enjoy editing my images as much as I enjoy taking them, to me its all part of the photography process, yes it can be a steep learning curve but there are thousands of great youtube videos showing every aspect of how to edit RAW files, why make then look average?
This is a fantastic tutorial. It is not something I had even considered and I edit in Lightroom virtually every day. This will definitely be on my new process list. Thank you so much.
Oh my goodness I've been looking for an answer to this forever. Super helpful tutorial! Thank you!
Just want to be the first to say it. of all the great Lighroom tutorial this has been the BEST of them all. THANK YOU!
You're welcome :-) And thanks for being the first!
There are so many times that I try to post process my Fuji camera photos with the film style created by the camera but I can never quite seem to capture it. With this new feature I might be able to. Thank you for presenting this.
Thanks so much for sharing this information. This is what I have been looking for, will be very helpful and speed up my process. I like to spend my time with my camera and not my laptop.
Thanks! Really appreciate you providing all of this info. I learn something every time.
No sweat Tom. Thx.
Really well done, thank you, Matt. I will create a develop setting based a Passport Colour Checker. I'll try to make this one of the first things I shoot when I get new equipment or change workflow. If I understand correctly, I am matching a known colour source and you are matching the camera style we see in the back of the camera and jpegs. I imagine I could add an additional preset that added the jpeg look chosen in the calibration selection.
Keep up the great work, Matt! Have a great day, Rick.
Thanks Matt! I learned a lot from this
Great method. thanks Matt. Now I have my Sony a77 set on Raw only. Now I know why I need it to be on RAQ & Jpef. thanks again
That's such an incredibly useful tutorial. Thanks!!!!!
Nice cool feature indeed. Thanks Matt for sharing :)
thank you very much Matt,really helpful
Very informative video. Do you know if there is anyway to do this or something similar with an earlier non CC version of Lightroom (Lightroom 5)? I totally agree that sometimes the preview looks awesome but very quickly it becomes flat and lifeless. It can take a lot of tweaking to replicate that look individually as well. I shoot RAW and JPG but due to the limitation of my version of Lightroom not supporting my newer Nikon DSLR I also have to convert the files to DNG format prior to editing.
Thanks Matt, clear and concise as always.
Would a custom camera prrofile (created with a Color Checker Passport) solve this problem?
Just like the profiles included in LR, you can apply your custom calibration as a preset.
Cheers,
Dan Moynihan
Thanks I wondered how to do it via import!!
Great video Matt. One question. How can I apply multiple presets during Import? I want to apply the jpeg preset I just learned from Matt and a lens correction preset.?
No. pick any image, choose your camera calibration option ... then go to add the preset, and unselect everything shown - then choose the calibration and lens correction options - and save it with some name you like. Same net effect has having 2 presets... use it on import and you're there.
got it......thanks for your help.....
Helpful and clear as usual Matt! Do you subscribe to the notion of shooting in RAW and having your camera set to FLAT - as that gives you the most realistic histogram when looking live in your LCD in the field? Or do you typically choose an appropriate profile for your Sony based upon what you are shooting? Thanks for sharing your expertise!
Hi Alan - yes, I shoot in raw and make any adjustments myself in post. I don't look at the histogram so I can't speak much to that. I just turn on the blinkies in camera and if it blinks at me I know I have a problem. If not, I'm good :-)
I've seen (and found from personal usage) that the histogram (and hence, the blinkies) are based upon the cooked image - meaning, the one adjusted based upon the profile. By setting it to FLAT it helps to get rid of "false positives" - meaning, the contrast added (for example) by a landscape profile may end up pushing some of the highlights up which might result in blinkies which may cause you to underexpose more than necessary. Of course, with the modern DSLRs and their ISO invariance capabilities that's not usually a problem... ;-)
I shoot raw on my CF card and JPEG on my SD card (just in case). I do set my style to Neutral so the JPEG is the least amount "cooked/baked" in.
Excellent teacher!
Thank you!
thanks! That is really helpful!
I know that I shouldn't be asking this as it will probably make me look like a dummy but that seems to be an awful lot of trouble to make a raw file look as good as a jpeg.
No problem if it doesn't work for you. it's a 7 minute video and I'm teaching. If I had to do that myself from start to finish, it would take about a minute or so, so it's not really investing a lot of time. And then you have a preset so you're good to go :-)
Meto thats a great point you bring up. Heres the reason behind shooting raw: It gives you the power to create almost any look. If you mess up you can fix a lot more things in RAW and almost nothing in JPEG. What Matt does here might sound like a lot of steps but you could learn something about a setting that could help you way down the line. Knowing your tools inside in out is key. Learning new ways to edit is growth
Awesome video
Thank Matt. As always very useful tips! I have a question though.... if I shoot Raw and JPEG with say landscape style calibration, do you import both sets of files and then apply the appropriate calibration to just the Raw files, but using the JPEG as the sample, or do you just import the raw and ditch the JPEG's, using them only to see what the image is like on your camera's screen . Hope that makes sense 😊
Brian The image you see on the back of your camera is a JPEG image generated by the camera so you can view what your image looks like. The camera generates this image for viewing no matter what settings you choose for images saved to your card(s). I would bet that Matt shot the images for the video and chose RAW and JPEG in camera for exporting. Once he has the preset made he probably changed the setting to RAW only and applies his landscape preset during import. By doing this all of his newly imported images look like the Landscape JPEG and this gives him a better starting point for further editing. Many people do shoot both RAW and JPEG if they have an immediate need for the image. Examples may be to share with someone or post on social media before you have time for full editing.
John Blackwood Thanks for the explanation John. Will give the preset idea shot. 👍
Thank you!
Cool, The best Master!!!
Thanks for the video, however after shooting with my A7 III I only see versions 1 through 5 listed under calibration, none of which produce anything like the results you show in this video. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
same here.
i think this is because that video is old and needs an update. But why would Adobe change this?
why not just look what profile is set in the camera?? (Or in the Exif info; may be dependant on the Manufacturer)
Can I ask if you do this??
I knew that but have a hard time deciding if I want to do it. Caz I found their are almost as many cases were I find it advantages to start from a flatter rendering. For me working on files starting from Camera Landscape tend to get an over-processed over saturated look very quickly. And why do the work of pulling it out afterwards by hand. Would you want that applied e.g. for a Portrait??
Of cause other times it saves some time. But really not that much . I Found for nikon its a little bit of Contrast and about 31 of Vibrance and you are their. And moving the sliders takes a few sec.
P.S. At the same time I also though about using Camera Neutral as an default.... Hoping the color representation would be better then Adobe Standard... But in the end I sticked with Adobe and just switch in manually for a very few cases when I cant get the results I want.
Heyyy Matt. You’ve had a haircut Mate. You’re just trying to impress us. LOLOL. KEEP UP THE TUTORIALS Matt. We need you. Neville J.
From Oregon?
Lightroom 2017 CC. There is no RA box?
Not sure about that Scott. It was added last November.
Updated LR, Thanks. It's there now :P
shift-R will turn it on and "D" will take you back to single image. I had the same experience once...
thnx for tips
Aloha from Maui!!! I can tel where these are from. :)
You cannot do this in LR 6 then Matt?? I have no R/A option.....
An easy to understand tutorial, but, why would you want all your beautiful RAW files to look just like JPG's? Isnt this defeating the object of shooting in RAW?
How so? You still retain all the data in shooting raw which is the purpose of shooting raw. Using the camera profiles is a nice starting point if you like any of the looks of any of the camera profile presets. Once set, you edit further from there. One thing I miss when editing my a7rii raw files is the ability to use those sweet canon color profiles for good looking skintones as a starting point. I miss canon colors..
For me it doesn't defeat the point. The point of shooting raw is that I have access to pull back the highlights or open the shadows and change exposure a lot more than I do with JPG. It's not the "look" that makes raw good or bad - it's the flexibility.
So on your next shoot you take some pictures of say your partner or your pet and they are all imported processed as vivid? No thanks its like processing them twice over.
Surely the whole point of RAW files is that you can push them further in post and process them individually depending on the picture content. Not to have them processed twice.
Perhaps we should agree to disagree on this one.
The whole point of RAW files is that you have a lot more data to (yes) push them further in post... but only if necessary. JPEG isn't a crippled format, it's actually pretty good, and it's possible to make very good JPEG files out of camera. So, utilizing the extra data and pushing files further in post isn't always necessary (and in fact it's necessary for only about 5% of the time - unless maybe you shoot landscape all the time, the extra DR can be useful then).
(There's also the possibility for better noise reduction and sharpening but that doesn't seem to be the issue here.)
And ultimately, the dude's just talking about when you find your RAW files too bland. He's not talking about the entirety of image editing.
"the dude's just talking about when you find your RAW files too bland"
I think that your missing the point here, RAW files by nature are going to be bland, because they are unedited, if you shoot RAW then they have to be edited and surely no one wants to edit their photos to look just like a jpg, there would be no point shooting in RAW.
IMHO youre better off learning how to record actions in PS to add saturation, sharpening and contrast etc than learning how to add a preset to make it look like a jpg. No one would buy a race car and then tune it to run like a production road car would they?
I enjoy editing my images as much as I enjoy taking them, to me its all part of the photography process, yes it can be a steep learning curve but there are thousands of great youtube videos showing every aspect of how to edit RAW files, why make then look average?
If you shoot jpeg ..... why ?
The folks at Adobe should come out with a lightroom update that'll stop changing the RAW files as after they're imported.