日本茜、土付きで保存した生根で染める。Harvest Rubia akane fresh roots with soil attached for 50 days, and dye them.

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 พ.ย. 2024
  • ニホンアカネは、乾燥する間に赤色素が減り黄色素が多くなり、生根染の赤色に染まらない。(2012年の化学分析結果より)インドアカネは乾燥しても赤く染まる。
    蕾がつく前の根が活性している夏、8月中旬に収穫、半分を翌日に染め(映像公開中)、残りの半分は、土付きのまま、紙に載せ、ビニール袋に入れ、密閉しないでダンボール箱に入れて暗くし、涼しい場所で保存した。根から新芽が出ているか、活性していることを時々確認しながら、保存し、50日余りあとに染めた。
    材料:
    ・絹着尺布12.7g、絹ストール18.2g、羊毛布1枚8gを2枚=16g)、苧麻布17.3g
    ・50日余り保存した茜生根362g
     (各布の重さの割合で、生根を4つに分ける。布1gに対し根の量は約5.64g/g)
     絹着尺用の根の重量: 71.628g、同様に絹ストール用根: 102.648g、
     羊毛布用根: 90.24g、苧麻布用根: 97.572g
    ・クエン酸(食品用、洗濯用、掃除用など)
    ・ソーダ灰(中和用、洗濯ソーダ、ラーメンのかん水など食品用)
    ・pH紙(pH0〜14)
    工程:
    先媒染 染める1週間前、それぞれの布の10%の重さの焼明礬(10%o.w.f)を少量の熱湯で溶かし、水を加え、布を入れ、加熱、60度前後で30分媒染、取り出して、絞り、水洗、乾燥。同じことを染める前に再度行った。
    抽出:ステンレスタンクに水5Lを入れ、クエン酸0.05%~0.1%溶液程度でpH4にする。 
      (酢を使った酸性抽出より赤く染まる)
       刻んだ根を入れ、加熱、90度で30分間抽出を2回行い、液を1つにして中和、その液
       を布の重さの比で4つに分ける。
    染色:
    1日目、先媒染を2回行った布をそれぞれの液に入れ、加熱、90度で蓋をして、加熱を止め30分染色、放冷。
    2日目、布を取り出して、乾燥、低温の媒染液に入れ、弱火で媒染30分ー水洗、染液に戻し、加熱ー90度で蓋をして、加熱を止め30分染色〜放冷。冷めたら水洗ー乾燥。
    *ニホンアカネの黄色素は、セルロース繊維の麻にはほとんど染まらないことが解る
    When dried, Japanese Akane roots do not stain red like the colors dyed with raw roots. (2012 analysis)
    Harvested on August 17, 2020, half dyed the next day, and the footage of the process has already been released at the workshop.
    This time, I imagined how the dyer was dyed after the 8th century when Akane-dyeing was recorded in KOJIKI, and put half of the roots at this time on paper with soil, put it in a plastic bag, put it in a cardboard box, and stored it in a cool and dark place. Since sprouts emerged from the roots, it was confirmed that they were active, and they were stored so that air could enter and they would not dry out.
    Ingredients:
    ・Silk cloth 12.7g, silk stole 18.2g, 1 wool cloth 8g 2 pieces = 16g), ramie cloth 17.3g
    ・Raw root 362g (stored for more than 50 days)
    (Divide the raw roots into 4 parts according to the weight of each cloth. Approximately 5.64 g/g of roots per 1 g of cloth)
    Root weight for each cloth:
    for silk kimono cloth-------71.628g, for silk stole------102.648g
    for wool cloths----------------90.24g, for ramie cloth---97.572g
    ・Citric acid (acidic extraction: food, laundry, cleaning, etc.), dyed more red than vinegar.
    ・Soda ash (neutralizing the extract: soda ash is used for washing, for food,etc)
    ・pH paper (pH 0-14)
    Process:
    Mordanting: One week before dyeing, dissolve 10% of the weight of each cloth in alum (10% owf) with a small amount of boiling water, add water, put the cloth, heat, mordant at around 60 degrees for 30 minutes, and take out. Squeeze, wash with water, and dry. I did it again before dyeing the same thing.
    Extraction:
    Put 5 L of water in a stainless steel tank and adjust to pH 4 with citric acid.
    Put the chopped roots, heat, extract twice at 90 degrees for 30 minutes, neutralize the liquid into one, and divide the liquid into four by the weight ratio of the cloth.
    dyeing:
    On the first day, put the cloth that had been mordanted twice into each solution, heat it, cover it at 90 degrees, stop heating, dye it for 30 minutes, and let it cool.
    On the second day, take out the cloth, dry it, put it in a low-temperature mordant solution, mordanting on low heat for 30 minutes-wash it with water, return it to the dyeing solution, heat it, cover it at 90 degrees, stop heating, dye it for 30 minutes ~ release cold. When it cools, wash it with water and dry it.

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