Hey Dave, I'm a 62 year old 4-wheeler, Had'm all but I love my 2000 Grand but I didn't know about the calipers. Your a good man. THANK YOU
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Great vid chief!! If anyone has teves, dump them fast. Akebonos are more stable. Teves are known to 'walk' the front brake pad around the rotor because teves require the wire clip to stabilize the front pad with the rear pad (on the same rotor). Teves will get stuck and grind a path into your rotor's front side or walk all over the front end causing wobble in your steering even when new, this is why Jeep went to Akebonos as factory standard in the WJ after early 2002, I believe. I researched after one of my Akebonos seized up last week. Also remember to maintain your brake fluid, if the fuild is not clear flush and replace (on the WJ start bleeding rear passenger first, rear driver, front passenger and end with front driver side). Oh and hells yes a stuck/seized caliper can cause death wobble, I had it after the passenger side seized up going 60 down a mountain, not fun times. If anyone does a caliper switch out, highly recommend you pony up some dough for new rotors/pads too so you can heat mate everything (brake in). Either amazon or RockAuto just don't get the cheap crap, get rotors made to OE standard in steel thickness and steel grade OMix-ada rotors are pretty good, (Mopar wants $100 per rotor). I'm running them now on the front and with the new calipers and pads the brakes are cool as hell, pedal feel is amazing and not even a slight vibration. Last tip, if you buy new rotors and do any kind of off-roading, even to check the mail, do NOT buy rotors with fancy holes or slats cut into them, they just trap rocks, dirt, debris and grind down your pads and rotors not to mention cause irritating high pitched squealing. Replace rotor with only standard smooth faced rotors. Also, screw you death wobble!
@ Yea, Eric is a big fan of breaking in his brakes that way. I read something on a box of pads not too long ago about going 60-0 10 times then 30-0 5 times to "properly" do it.. seemed excessive! I have been asking folks since what they do to see if anyone has heard of that level of bluing. No one has yet
Was looking to find out what the difference was between the two. You described not only that, but why Akebono are better. I sure appreciate your excellent description and help. When I need to replace them, I will now have the exact item I need on hand. Thankyou sir. Well done !
I noticed that difference on mine last week when I was getting new tires and did not know! Good info, looks like my next change out part after I get the shocks done this weekend with be new Brake Calipers! Thank you and Keep up the good work with the Vids!!
I still have the original calipers on my 99 WJ I have al ways changed the wire when I do the pads and I have never had a problem.However I do have the teves calipers new in a box.That probably why I haven’t had any problems with the originals.
I got no idea how I missed this one. But yeah, this is the first real mod I did to mine. It was dragging the right front inner pad on a regular basis and the left rear inner. Akebonos on the front and brand new rears got put in last year. No problems since, but we all know it will take a little longer than a couple of seasons to really screw them up :) Side note: I painted all 4 of them with vht caliper paint before they went on. Why? I hateses the rustses and it already has more than I ever want to see again!
@@DEInTheGarage So far so good... lemme look again after winter is over :) I made a booboo when I painted...I prepped with brake cleaner. Should have used xylene. But I baked it, so we'll see.
Teves are heavier and hold heat so the don't cool as fast as Akebono. You have to buy loaded calipers to get the brackets because they use different brackets as well. I messed around for 4 years having brake problems continually, then switched to Akebono and all do now is replace pads.
Sounds like our long trip through New Hampshire. One ATE was smok'n on the highway and pulling hard to the left. This is a dead-stock setup. We all got a hotel and I borrowed some tools from their nice maintenance guy. Two years later it happened again. I looked into it and learned ATEs were pretty sketchy. I called Jeep and they said it takes a lot of parts and it's too expensive to change over. I got to looking at photos and I didn't see and issue so I ordered some Cardone calipers, since they have brackets that are needed. Been 4 years and all's good. Just be sure the new calipers come with the brackets---not all do.
Damnn after looking at this video, I realized that when I bough my brake rotors, pads, and calipers, I bought the teves instead of the akebono set. I'll just keep them on till they give issues/ next brake job.
FYI most wj have ate teves calipers and need ate teves pads. And easier to replace and find cheap but good. I just buy spare parts so there is no issue. Just upgrade the pad and rotor for your use. I dog my rock crawlers with no issues from the ate teves brakes ever.
I have 02 WJ with one side having Teves/ATE and the other has Akebono. I think it was the front with Akebono. I was told Chrysler upgraded the 02 WJ from Teves to Akebono in the front on a recall in 04. I'm not sure because I didn't own it then. Only had mine since early 2022.
Thanks so much! Going to swap mine over too. I don't have death wobble but I know my rotors are warp cause when I step on my brakes I feel a vibration.
Thank You for the great video and valuable information. I have a 2001 jeep grand cheroke laredo. I may have to replace the calipers. akebono sounds like the way to go.
I noticed my Akebono's (2001 WJ 4.7,) Front piston crumbled. I was using an old brake pad and c-clamp and resetting the pistons. I was spraying brake cleaner on the caliper as noticed this. I wound up installing a new Caloper, Thank you jeep for making the caliper exchange a piece of fucking cake!
True! It is doable also. You can swap the D30 knuckles from a WJ onto the D30 of an XJ. You also get the benefit of full crossover steering, though it is not a simple project. MartinBuilt has a great video on it if you are interested
So, in your vid you mentioned you thought the locked caliper was due to the vehicle sitting so long. Since the wire hardware is visible at anytime....and this was one of the disadvantages, seems like that is an easy one to maintain. Putting one side in and holding the pin in with visegrips as you push the other spring tension arm on is easy enough. We are down to the calipers not being rebuilt properly in the remarks and a 4 piston system that probably never gets brake fluid change or maintenance in a harsh offroad environment. I suppose this is driven because we Jeep guys replace things like brakes only when they fail and do no PM. You sure this is a Teves issue? BTW, the company name is pronounced "Tehves" as a two syllable word with a soft E.
I have a 2002 wj. The lady that I bought it from only drove it in town. So hardly ever drove it over 35 mph. When it shirts into overdrive it has a vibrating noise. Any suggestions.
D&E In The Garage I bought 2 new ones today. One would not bleed. Not a stop. Tried gravity bleeding for 2 hours. Nothing. Then tried with a friend pumping the pedal. Nothing. I took it off while hooked up and only the bottom piston pushed out and then eventually leaked around the piston. Taking in back to NAPA in the morning. Hopefully will work. The drivers side installed and bled just fine. Ever hear of this?
Love your channel. I got a question, You said your brakes got hot, My rear brakes are teves. I notice a burning smell from them. also what appears to sound like a slight grinding when in motion. I replaced my pads recently because I thought a rock got stuck between the pad and rotor, There were a few grooves in the rotor. I still get the same issues. Could it be a stuck caliper? If so should I replace them as well as rotors and pads with Akebono? I have those in the front. Thanks for your opinion and advice.
Hi There from Quebec, love your vids Man! I can't recall in which of your videos, but you mentionned that using ford rotors which were a direct swap, instead of redrilling WJ rotors to fit XJ's bolt patterns in doing the WJ to XJ knuckle steering conversion... Which ford what year/model?
Is there a difference in the teves and akebono rear caliper too? The rear calipers on my 02 like to seize up, I do have teves in the front that I want to switch out.
I understand that the fronts take the brunt of the braking but they should've done the rears in an akebono style as well. Why have two different style brakes on the same car when one has been proven to be superior to the other. And again I know the rears don't do as much as the fronts so people will say it doesn't matter but again akebonos are just better so why not? Anyone lifting thier wjs are getting the same size tires all around. why not a better brake to support the bigger tires and towing? Yes I get that the fronts do the bulk of the work. I get that.
Yes, but it is not as simple as described in this video. You need to take the knuckles from a WJ and swap them onto the Dana 30 on your XJ. That part is a direct swap. then you will need to make some modifications to your drag link as the WJ knuckles are setup for crossover steering. Additionally (and I do not know this first hand, just what I have heard) you need to cut and grind parts of your sway bar links and calipers for turning clearance. I think a spacer much also be added to the knuckled to matchup the rotor and caliper. There is a guy on youtube who did this names MartinBuilt. His video is really great.
All depends.. If you are having braking issues, first I would upgrade from teves to akebono front calipers if you WJ didnt come with them. I have run D/S Rotors on my WJ and didn't notice much different.
@@DEInTheGarage no issues with my 01 right now. I have the undesirable ones on it now. I don't remember which one it is. Just waiting to smell that familiar smell of burning pads on mine. Lol
The flaw in these calipers is with the slide pins. Their weather resistance sucks and are very liable to get stuck. Otherwise, there is literally no difference in how they operate or how one would generate more heat vs the other. Those wires are "anti-rattle" devices. They do nothing but keep the caliper from shaking over bumps. They only fall off because people don't get them in there all the way.
Fucker sold me a Jeep and said he redone all the brakes but I learned the hard way when I pulled up in the driveway and my rim was nearly on fire.. ATE calipers are complete garbage and I wanted to upgrade to the Akebono's but I wasn't sure if I they'd be a direct swap..
The teves suck I've had countless issues with them. I was stupid enough to put teves back on when I re did my calipers and I'm having brake alignment issues with brand new calipers hooray
@@robertmerritt7271 when your rotors are either too far out or too far in by a few thousandths of an inch and you end up with a dragging condition caused by misalignment of the contact surfaces. Ended up being shitty aftermarket rear wheel bearing races that caused the condition so I had to re do them. NEVER GET DURALAST REAR WHEEL BEARINGS FOR JEEP WJ, the races are too big. They'll install fine but you end up with the condition mentioned above
Hey Dave, I'm a 62 year
old 4-wheeler, Had'm all but I love my 2000 Grand but I didn't know about the calipers. Your a good man. THANK YOU
Great vid chief!! If anyone has teves, dump them fast. Akebonos are more stable. Teves are known to 'walk' the front brake pad around the rotor because teves require the wire clip to stabilize the front pad with the rear pad (on the same rotor). Teves will get stuck and grind a path into your rotor's front side or walk all over the front end causing wobble in your steering even when new, this is why Jeep went to Akebonos as factory standard in the WJ after early 2002, I believe. I researched after one of my Akebonos seized up last week. Also remember to maintain your brake fluid, if the fuild is not clear flush and replace (on the WJ start bleeding rear passenger first, rear driver, front passenger and end with front driver side). Oh and hells yes a stuck/seized caliper can cause death wobble, I had it after the passenger side seized up going 60 down a mountain, not fun times. If anyone does a caliper switch out, highly recommend you pony up some dough for new rotors/pads too so you can heat mate everything (brake in). Either amazon or RockAuto just don't get the cheap crap, get rotors made to OE standard in steel thickness and steel grade OMix-ada rotors are pretty good, (Mopar wants $100 per rotor). I'm running them now on the front and with the new calipers and pads the brakes are cool as hell, pedal feel is amazing and not even a slight vibration. Last tip, if you buy new rotors and do any kind of off-roading, even to check the mail, do NOT buy rotors with fancy holes or slats cut into them, they just trap rocks, dirt, debris and grind down your pads and rotors not to mention cause irritating high pitched squealing. Replace rotor with only standard smooth faced rotors. Also, screw you death wobble!
OMIX-ADA is the way to go. What is your process for heat mating (we always call it "blueing") new pads?
@ Yea, Eric is a big fan of breaking in his brakes that way. I read something on a box of pads not too long ago about going 60-0 10 times then 30-0 5 times to "properly" do it.. seemed excessive! I have been asking folks since what they do to see if anyone has heard of that level of bluing. No one has yet
Was looking to find out what the difference was between the two. You described not only that, but why Akebono are better. I sure appreciate your excellent description and help. When I need to replace them, I will now have the exact item I need on hand. Thankyou sir. Well done !
Good INFO I'm doing the WJ Caliper swap on the ZJ, so thanks for the info. AKEBONO for the WIN!
I noticed that difference on mine last week when I was getting new tires and did not know! Good info, looks like my next change out part after I get the shocks done this weekend with be new Brake Calipers! Thank you and Keep up the good work with the Vids!!
Great video Doug. I'm doing this , I've had to replace my rotors every year and I'm tired of it.
Thanks. My 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee just toasted both front Teves calipers. Off to the auto store to change style. 225,000 miles. Need new ones.
Hell yeah bro! I'm doing the WJ knuckle and akebono caliper upgrade to Beach Jeep! I can't wait.
Damn.. cant wait to see that vid! That is a dope swap, but I hear there is a LOT involved
@@DEInTheGarage yup... I'm stoked tho! Maybe next summer
Im doing the same, how was your swap after four year?
I just had my Teves lock up in my 99 and leave me on the side of the road. Will be upgrading all of them while I am at it. Thanks for the info!
I still have the original calipers on my 99 WJ I have al ways changed the wire when I do the pads and I have never had a problem.However I do have the teves calipers new in a box.That probably why I haven’t had any problems with the originals.
Thank you for showing me the difference. I am changing mine out on my 2002 Overland!
I got no idea how I missed this one. But yeah, this is the first real mod I did to mine. It was dragging the right front inner pad on a regular basis and the left rear inner. Akebonos on the front and brand new rears got put in last year. No problems since, but we all know it will take a little longer than a couple of seasons to really screw them up :)
Side note: I painted all 4 of them with vht caliper paint before they went on. Why? I hateses the rustses and it already has more than I ever want to see again!
Nice! How is the paint holding up?
@@DEInTheGarage So far so good... lemme look again after winter is over :)
I made a booboo when I painted...I prepped with brake cleaner. Should have used xylene. But I baked it, so we'll see.
Teves are heavier and hold heat so the don't cool as fast as Akebono. You have to buy loaded calipers to get the brackets because they use different brackets as well. I messed around for 4 years having brake problems continually, then switched to Akebono and all do now is replace pads.
Sounds like our long trip through New Hampshire. One ATE was smok'n on the highway and pulling hard to the left. This is a dead-stock setup. We all got a hotel and I borrowed some tools from their nice maintenance guy. Two years later it happened again. I looked into it and learned ATEs were pretty sketchy. I called Jeep and they said it takes a lot of parts and it's too expensive to change over. I got to looking at photos and I didn't see and issue so I ordered some Cardone calipers, since they have brackets that are needed. Been 4 years and all's good. Just be sure the new calipers come with the brackets---not all do.
This is great. I’ve had non stop issues with the front brakes on my WJ. Switching styles today as one of the fronts is currently seized up again 🤦♂️
Damnn after looking at this video, I realized that when I bough my brake rotors, pads, and calipers, I bought the teves instead of the akebono set. I'll just keep them on till they give issues/ next brake job.
FYI most wj have ate teves calipers and need ate teves pads. And easier to replace and find cheap but good. I just buy spare parts so there is no issue. Just upgrade the pad and rotor for your use. I dog my rock crawlers with no issues from the ate teves brakes ever.
I have 02 WJ with one side having Teves/ATE and the other has Akebono. I think it was the front with Akebono.
I was told Chrysler upgraded the 02 WJ from Teves to Akebono in the front on a recall in 04.
I'm not sure because I didn't own it then. Only had mine since early 2022.
Thanks so much! Going to swap mine over too. I don't have death wobble but I know my rotors are warp cause when I step on my brakes I feel a vibration.
I guess I lucked out and have the better calipers in when I bought my 01 WJ .
Is it a limited?
Thank You for the great video and valuable information. I have a 2001 jeep grand cheroke laredo. I may have to replace the calipers. akebono sounds like the way to go.
Some 2001's already have them, so check for the tension spring that is only on the Teves
I noticed my Akebono's (2001 WJ 4.7,) Front piston crumbled. I was using an old brake pad and c-clamp and resetting the pistons. I was spraying brake cleaner on the caliper as noticed this. I wound up installing a new Caloper, Thank you jeep for making the caliper exchange a piece of fucking cake!
Does this bolt on or do I need to get different parts to put on
These would make a great upgrade to the XJ single piston calipers...
True! It is doable also. You can swap the D30 knuckles from a WJ onto the D30 of an XJ. You also get the benefit of full crossover steering, though it is not a simple project. MartinBuilt has a great video on it if you are interested
I can't find any rear akebono.. do the fronts fit rear?
So, in your vid you mentioned you thought the locked caliper was due to the vehicle sitting so long. Since the wire hardware is visible at anytime....and this was one of the disadvantages, seems like that is an easy one to maintain. Putting one side in and holding the pin in with visegrips as you push the other spring tension arm on is easy enough. We are down to the calipers not being rebuilt properly in the remarks and a 4 piston system that probably never gets brake fluid change or maintenance in a harsh offroad environment. I suppose this is driven because we Jeep guys replace things like brakes only when they fail and do no PM. You sure this is a Teves issue? BTW, the company name is pronounced "Tehves" as a two syllable word with a soft E.
I have a 2002 wj. The lady that I bought it from only drove it in town. So hardly ever drove it over 35 mph. When it shirts into overdrive it has a vibrating noise. Any suggestions.
I noticed NAPA sells them with or without mounting bracket. If it’s a swap out, why not just reuse the old bracket? Thanks!
I honestly do not know if the bracket is the same. Is it?
D&E In The Garage I bought 2 new ones today. One would not bleed. Not a stop. Tried gravity bleeding for 2 hours. Nothing. Then tried with a friend pumping the pedal. Nothing. I took it off while hooked up and only the bottom piston pushed out and then eventually leaked around the piston. Taking in back to NAPA in the morning. Hopefully will work. The drivers side installed and bled just fine.
Ever hear of this?
The bracket is different between the two.
Excellent Video!
THANK YOU SIR
it is not directly a direct.... swap .. you hv to also change the brackets. Teve brackets are different
Love your channel. I got a question, You said your brakes got hot, My rear brakes are teves. I notice a burning smell from them. also what appears to sound like a slight grinding when in motion. I replaced my pads recently because I thought a rock got stuck between the pad and rotor, There were a few grooves in the rotor. I still get the same issues. Could it be a stuck caliper? If so should I replace them as well as rotors and pads with Akebono? I have those in the front. Thanks for your opinion and advice.
Hi There from Quebec, love your vids Man! I can't recall in which of your videos, but you mentionned that using ford rotors which were a direct swap, instead of redrilling WJ rotors to fit XJ's bolt patterns in doing the WJ to XJ knuckle steering conversion... Which ford what year/model?
Big help thanks mate
You can run 15” rims with the ATE/Teves calipers. With the Akebonos the 15” dont fit.
Interesting... i did not know that. I have Teves when I ran 15's on my WJ. Good info. Thanks
They will with a large positive offset, but then you're sticking the wheels out pretty far which screws with the scrub radius.
Will Alenonos work with a 16” wheel or do you need 17”?
Is there a difference in the teves and akebono rear caliper too? The rear calipers on my 02 like to seize up, I do have teves in the front that I want to switch out.
great video!
Can akebono caliper be put on the back wheels also or just the front?
You are the man great video. And you answered all my questions to the tee thank you. Love my 2000 wj second best jeep I've ever owned
I understand that the fronts take the brunt of the braking but they should've done the rears in an akebono style as well. Why have two different style brakes on the same car when one has been proven to be superior to the other. And again I know the rears don't do as much as the fronts so people will say it doesn't matter but again akebonos are just better so why not? Anyone lifting thier wjs are getting the same size tires all around. why not a better brake to support the bigger tires and towing? Yes I get that the fronts do the bulk of the work. I get that.
really both calipers use same bracket? that makes the choice even easier
Yep, direct bolt on.
@@DEInTheGarage on the jeepforum they say you absolutely need another bracket. I'm stumped..
Can this swap be done for my 97 xj? Or my 97 xj?
Yes, but it is not as simple as described in this video. You need to take the knuckles from a WJ and swap them onto the Dana 30 on your XJ. That part is a direct swap. then you will need to make some modifications to your drag link as the WJ knuckles are setup for crossover steering. Additionally (and I do not know this first hand, just what I have heard) you need to cut and grind parts of your sway bar links and calipers for turning clearance. I think a spacer much also be added to the knuckled to matchup the rotor and caliper. There is a guy on youtube who did this names MartinBuilt. His video is really great.
@@DEInTheGarage thank you guys I've been getting the wrong pads for my wj form a few years now u know
did Akebono ever come stock in wj if so what year
Yes, they came stock on the WJ from halfway through 2001 (my 2001 WJ came with them) for the rest of the WJs production life
What's your opinion on slotted and drilled rotors for a wj in an offroad environment?
All depends.. If you are having braking issues, first I would upgrade from teves to akebono front calipers if you WJ didnt come with them. I have run D/S Rotors on my WJ and didn't notice much different.
@@DEInTheGarage no issues with my 01 right now. I have the undesirable ones on it now. I don't remember which one it is. Just waiting to smell that familiar smell of burning pads on mine. Lol
The flaw in these calipers is with the slide pins. Their weather resistance sucks and are very liable to get stuck.
Otherwise, there is literally no difference in how they operate or how one would generate more heat vs the other.
Those wires are "anti-rattle" devices. They do nothing but keep the caliper from shaking over bumps. They only fall off because people don't get them in there all the way.
My breaks are almost to steel but just bought a red 99 wj 4x4 and it has the akebono. Had to watch this to confirm the type hahaha I got lucky
LOL LOVE the Chris Christie reference!
Right on ✊🏻
The caliper bracket is different
Fucker sold me a Jeep and said he redone all the brakes but I learned the hard way when I pulled up in the driveway and my rim was nearly on fire.. ATE calipers are complete garbage and I wanted to upgrade to the Akebono's but I wasn't sure if I they'd be a direct swap..
100% direct swap. same mounting hardware, same rotor. different pads
@@DEInTheGarage I'll trade you my reman ATE crap from Auto Zone lol
The teves suck I've had countless issues with them. I was stupid enough to put teves back on when I re did my calipers and I'm having brake alignment issues with brand new calipers hooray
What are brake alignment issues???
@@robertmerritt7271 when your rotors are either too far out or too far in by a few thousandths of an inch and you end up with a dragging condition caused by misalignment of the contact surfaces. Ended up being shitty aftermarket rear wheel bearing races that caused the condition so I had to re do them. NEVER GET DURALAST REAR WHEEL BEARINGS FOR JEEP WJ, the races are too big. They'll install fine but you end up with the condition mentioned above
You don't know...
Do i need to switch caliper bracket, or just the caliper?