Please note that eFuse also has a second, very different meaning in electronics: a One-Time Programmable memory bit integrated into the silicon die, for example you can permanently write protect or even read-protect the memory inside microcontrollers, game consoles like Xbox an PS have eFuse banks in the CPU to prevent firmware downgrade, etc.
damn you got me there! I was about to say the same thing! XD Yeah, those consoles do use eFuse to prevent downgrade and in the case of the Xbox 360, Per-console CPU keys are also stored on the eFuse.
The best protection for your circuit is when you accidentally soldered same-gendered connectors on both device and supply side. Can't smoke any electronic if you can't power it in the first place.
You have just solved a design problem I’ve been dealing with for almost a year!!!! Thanks you so much. I had no idea that these chips existed. Dang. I’m too old. Got my Electrical Engineering degree 46 years ago. Used a slide rule. No cell phones and no HP calculators. Oh, well. I will be using JLCPCB and building a new revision of my board with these efuses on them. Now to study the data sheet. GREAT SCOTT is really great!! Thanks for a really great video!!
They have been around in a single chip for decades but only last 10 years been small enough for things like Smartphones, Portable Game Consoles and high power compact chargers
I remember building one of these using a MOSFET and two transistors - It initially was meant to be a low-battery cut-off, but wound up having good short-circuit protection capabilities...
Excellent. You have revived my interest in hobby electronics. I've lost count of how many times I ruined projects but not taking care of this stuff! Keep up the good work.
I have been designing these into my designs for years - eFuses offer a lot of control over the behavior of circuit protection. You do have to be careful because you can induce various issues like oscillations and SOA violations that get ugly quickly. Pay close attention to both the circuit design AND the PCB layout
@@henrikemppainen2511 'Safe Operating Area' generally speaking, it refers to the parameters that collectively will heat up the silicon die on the MOSFET switch. The part is damaged at a certain temperature and the designer needs to manage the device well enough to stay within the safe operating temps. It can be tricky.
I love your videos. They are just clean, concise and detail oriented. I'm always looking forward to your videos to learn more. Keep up the great work Mr.Scott
What I appreciate about this post is the suggestion to take the circuit apart right after the work is done. Not to enjoy the experiment too long, but to move on directly to the next one.
Idk why but your segments where you write and explain really sink in more mentally than if you were to just be talking. It's partially what keeps me engaged in the videos 👌
Very cool. There might be a big market for eFuse demo boards with trim-pots for adjusting voltage and current control, and Pheonix connectors so people could wire these into their projects. Post-assembly powered functional testing would be a great application. I can't tell you the number of times I've seen small circuits boards scrapped during manufacturing because there was a short somewhere that damaged something on first power up (during functional testing). By controlling the power to the UUT, these could even protect against damage to other components in a system or the test equipment, to some extent.
You’re amazing, thanks for sharing all this knowledge. I’m a hobbyist and you make easier for all of us to understand and apply the concept to our projects. Thanks!
For reverse voltage protection just pop a full bridge rectifier IC before the eFuse and boom you have circuit working in normal and also in reverse polarity. The 1.2V drop might not be goos though.
Commodore 64 has a notoriously bad PSU with its 5V DC overvoltage mishaps. This would be a great project to do an overvoltage protector for it! Nice one, "Scott"!
Thank you for sharing your vast knowledge! My biggest problem now is geographical location, since I now live in Brazil (6000 miles away from my native England), there are very few components available here, you need to order from China or buy in quantities of thousands from Farnell, Mouser etc!
Spectacularly good timing having just got to the point in a project where I'm thinking about protection circuits. I discovered that, having laboured long and hard on the project, it draws so little current that the power banks I've tried to used to power it simply switch off. We're back to batteries and the inevitable possibility of some klutz (likely me!) getting the power in wrong. As ever, great video. Thanks 😊
It's an absolute non-feature, they should at least make it possible to disable. I guess you could always add a parallel power resistor that burns off some extra current to make the ""smart"" power bank know you don't want it to shut down. Sounds incredibly stupid when thinking about it, intentionally wasting power of a battery... Good lord, modern electronics.
@@westelaudio943 yup, the extra resistor running in parallel would likely do the deed, but we're agreed that this is a complete waste of power. I would have thought that a function to switch this mode off on a power bnak wouldn't be too hard to engineer. A long press on the power on button, perhaps?
Great, maybe this is my next solution, working with colleagues capable of breaking anything they touch... One thing I've learned at work is: _Regardless of the amount of protection I put in my circuits, my (non-tech) colleagues will always find a way to destroy them..._ They have: - Put a powered PCB on top of a metal table, during testing... - Ripped a USB-B port of my board, trough hole version... - Reversed the polarity, on a prototype in which I told them to wait on me before powering it... - Used the wrong adapter / battery / voltage... - Used it outside without proper watertight enclosure... - Put multiple PCB's on top of each-other, while powered... - Peeled of a 0402 capacitor, because they thought it looked like a dirty breadcrumb... - ... I would dare the military to lend them one of their armored vehicles, for testing purposes. My colleagues would probably break it within the next 5 minutes, by just looking at it.
The other day I connected a 3.3 volt voltage regulator to 12 volts. Switching the switching power supply on and off went well several times. But when switching, the power supply unit must have charged itself to over 14 volts, limit of the V regulator. The voltage regulator short-circuited and the circuit behind it suddenly had 7 volts. I heard the 4 volt tantalum capacitor explode. The IC behind it was specified up to 5.5 volts, but survived. From my box I then put a diode and a 78L12 in front of the new 3.3 volt voltage regulator. So the 3.3 V regulator doesn't see more than 10 to 12 volts, that's in the rules. The 78L12 will not be able to regulate well with a 12 volt input, but it will certainly withstand voltage peaks. I didn't have a 78L09 that would be the better choice. Another possibility would be to build a 3.3 volt regulator with an LM317. But I didn't have any space left.
Hi. I am late to the party but when a short is created on the circuit, does power resume immediately when the short is removed? Or is there some sort of reset necessary?
Great video as always! The only thing that wasn't very explanatory to me is what and why was exactly calculated to realize the under voltage protection
Im not sure if you have mentioned this before but another method of reverse voltage protection is a bridge rectifier circuit. Then no matter the polarity, the circuit still gets the correct polarity at the sacrifice of the small voltage drop of the diodes.
@@markderlo212 "extensive" is relative to the project. Most diodes I have used in this exact scenario have a 0.7 Volt drop. That was no where near "extensive" for my purposes.
only at low currents; @ 500mA it will be at least 0.4V and if you have already a supply of say 3V3 then you will get 2V9 or less to supply you circuit - it simply might be too low. And that eFuse @ 500mA will have a drop of just ~ 45mV
Probably pointed out already but so far the comments I have read did not say it. What I generally do to add a simple reverse voltage protection, is just using an bridge rectifier. There is a small drop in voltage but in the cases I have used it, it does not really mater. With this, more than a protection it allows to use whatever polarity you give to it. Did not know of these circuits either.
But then again my circuits look very different to yours. I use a lot of relays and premade modules, because I don't have the time or patience to solder or prototype stuff.
These Efuse IC's are very different to the current limiting automotive fuses. This chips are mainly interested for variable voltage power supplies such as batteries - and protect from undervoltage, overvoltage, over and under current and reverse polarity, rather than over current. they're mainly interested for areas where user error is involved and server grade equipment rather than a standard fuse.
You should definitely do it. You don't need to spend a lot either. Get yourself a ESP32 or ESP8266 or an Arduino Uno - and some basic components and you'll be going onto more advanced things in no time. Always a great place to start as they're cheap and easy to learn basic principles! Good luck :)
Those efuses are a different thing. The ones in this video are like fuses but better - more controllable, resettable... The Samsung ones are a bit more evil. They will blow if you modify the firmware and there is no way to reset them. A similar concept is used in laptop batteries, if the BMS circuit detects any problems it will blow a fuse and disable the circuit, making it unnecessarily hard to repair the battery.
Why not use a diode bridge and ldo? It'll CONVERT to the correct voltage, AND correct any polarity to the circuit. The LDO can be chosen to avoid over current. Some have thermal shutdown too.
I really appreciate your videos. Even when I don't feel like going to the bench for a week or two, these are so easily digestible and are perfect small applications I can make use of later. Thanks!
I find it easy enough to use a simple diode for reverse voltage protection. A step further would be a bridge rectifier. Either would prevent current from flowing in reverse through the project whatever it might be.
That's a good solution for a fixed power circuit but if you're using batteries you're reducing your voltage headroom by whatever the diode reverse voltage is. Using a P-Channel mosfet gets around that issue since you can spec ones with really low Rds on. I did that for a battery powered high-precision frequency source last year.
My expirence states that Arduinos/AVRs don't really need reverse current protection if fused. When connected backwards - those start to fry consuming more than 500mA tripping fuses before any real damage is done. Don't want to experiment though.
I normally purchase from Jameco since they have reasonable pricing and wave shipping and handling for orders over a certain limit. I used Mouser a few years ago since they were the only supplier that had a specific value inductor that I needed for a MMIC circuit. Shipping UPS ground was at a flat rate of $5. Just now I checked and they charge $7.99 to ship an order via UPS ground, UPS 2nd day, or FedEx 2nd day. They have no minimum order requirement. Tbh, it isn't worth placing a small order. I'd order a lot of ten at 79 cents each or add other items to the order.
And then come the EU customs. 23-27% tax on all costs (parts + shipping), then customs and customs handling fees added on top, then you pay VAT on the customs handling fees as well. That's how you pay $70 for $2 worth of parts. And the paperwork, oh misery.
AWW MAN Electronics basics Love the basics Again here commenting just after getting notification by leaving my all work aside whose deadline has past a year ago🤣
"where's the fun in reading the datasheet?" 1 min later: "according to the datasheet..." I joke, you have great detailed videos. Thanks for explaining even the basics, this helped more than my undergrad degree ever did.
Very informative. I was using a power bank in a project and it would cut out all the time, after roughly a few seconds. I've also tried my very good Anker power bank and it behaved the same. So I've given up on that and just use a 2S lipo directly. I don't think I was drawing a huge amount of current.
@@tmkkka8093 This is my current hypothesis, but it still seems to turn off faster than I'd expect and would do so even while I'm drawing current controlling motors in the 500mA - 1A range. Overall, I'm just not happy using power banks to run my projects.
Do you warn JLCPCB of the upcoming demand, before you create these videos? I see that JLCPCB does have one model in-stock for SMT assembly (with limited supply)--but I wonder how long that will last, now that you've educated everyone!
can you make a device that control multiple batteries (having seperate BMS, different capacity, different age). the device can have multiple terminals to connect multiple battery banks and able to control charge/discharge without hurting the older/smaller battery. I think this could have potential application for solar battery bank that we can combine any batteries with different types, ages and capacity.
Bro please tell you how great of all electronics hobbiest and best of electronics is Great Scott And how you learned all the basic electronics and how to understand the circuit diagrams easily to make a project by understanding the circuit diagrams because of difficulty to understand the circuit diagrams
Thanks for so interesting and easy to follow videos!👏🏻 would this eFuse also work as a protection for USB port in a computer while connected to an Arduino board in a circuit powered with an external 12Vdc power supply? I’m worried for my laptop USB integrity when plugging it to externally powered circuits.
I didn't want to deal with this mess so with my last product I put in a bridge rectifier and check the voltage with a voltage divider before my device turns on. Seems like a good option if you have a free ADC pin and it works fine with reverse voltage and only requires the bridge rectifier and 2 resistors. Same cost, fewer parts. The only downside I can think of is voltage drop. Why would you advise against this strategy instead?
I'm making a project that needs the voltage current limited to 150mA. I want to use the Efuse for this project, what resistor value do I need to limit the current to 150mA?
Great video, thanks. Would like to hear more about timing and power envelopes, for example, would an eFuse chip be suitable for managing/protecting the pulse loads caused by stepper motors operating at high speed?
You videos are always fun and informative to watch. Just a quick note, absolutely nothing negative, but somehow you tend to add an "s" after a consonant at the end of some words, while speaking. Is it because German is your motherlanguage? Anyways, two thumbs up!
Love this video, currently struggling with how to power a project and this will be a great help! If you could do a video on powering projects with mains 12v power supplies that would be great.
What do you mean by mains 12v power supply. Do you mean just 12v DC? (Through an adapter plugged into AC wall power?. If so the source (i.e mains) has nothing to do with the 12v and you only have to deal with the 12v DC - exactly the same as if it were coming from a battery. Hope that helps
I have to say... you have the neatest hand writing but you're a monster with the highlighter haha.
MORE ORANGE. :-D
He sometimes destroys his nice handwriting by painting over again
@@nickwallette6201 to the drive or I will just wonder why you didn't want her for doctor 😂💊💊💊💊💊💊💊💊💊💊💊
@@bennycheungwl Uh... happy 4/20 to you, too! 😘
I think it's a deliberate attempt to generate comments.
It works.
Please note that eFuse also has a second, very different meaning in electronics: a One-Time Programmable memory bit integrated into the silicon die, for example you can permanently write protect or even read-protect the memory inside microcontrollers, game consoles like Xbox an PS have eFuse banks in the CPU to prevent firmware downgrade, etc.
damn you got me there! I was about to say the same thing! XD
Yeah, those consoles do use eFuse to prevent downgrade and in the case of the Xbox 360, Per-console CPU keys are also stored on the eFuse.
I was wondering why GreatScott would be talking about efuses, maybe a collab with MVG. This makes sense now, thanks!
I just asked about this...
Really odd :/
⬆️🆙⬆️
That's horrible. That's planned obsolescence
I didn’t even know this was available as a component! Great Scott!
It is an awesome component :-)
yes!
There’s an IC for everything... if you have enough time to dig through the spec sheets that is :)
I only heard this thing when modding consoles like Xbox 360 using this fuses to prevent firmware downgrade
currently unavailable and shipping is 12GBP from U.S. *bah*
The best protection for your circuit is when you accidentally soldered same-gendered connectors on both device and supply side. Can't smoke any electronic if you can't power it in the first place.
How about the power supply damage then? Did you calculate it?
Gay mating
Thats gay
Any (in)competent fool will be sure have the appropriate gender-bender on hand for just such cases...🔌💥
Protection, sex, smoking... good stuff.
You have just solved a design problem I’ve been dealing with for almost a year!!!! Thanks you so much. I had no idea that these chips existed. Dang. I’m too old. Got my Electrical Engineering degree 46 years ago. Used a slide rule. No cell phones and no HP calculators. Oh, well. I will be using JLCPCB and building a new revision of my board with these efuses on them. Now to study the data sheet.
GREAT SCOTT is really great!! Thanks for a really great video!!
Thanks for the feedback :-) I am glad that I could help :-)
i've used circuits (with discrete components) that did OV/UV/OC protection over the years, but this is the first time I've seen all that in ONE CHIP
They have been around in a single chip for decades but only last 10 years been small enough for things like Smartphones, Portable Game Consoles and high power compact chargers
I remember building one of these using a MOSFET and two transistors - It initially was meant to be a low-battery cut-off, but wound up having good short-circuit protection capabilities...
The chip also has an ESD protection up to 2k volt, which is great.
Excellent. You have revived my interest in hobby electronics. I've lost count of how many times I ruined projects but not taking care of this stuff! Keep up the good work.
I have been designing these into my designs for years - eFuses offer a lot of control over the behavior of circuit protection. You do have to be careful because you can induce various issues like oscillations and SOA violations that get ugly quickly. Pay close attention to both the circuit design AND the PCB layout
What's SOA in this context?
@@henrikemppainen2511 'Safe Operating Area' generally speaking, it refers to the parameters that collectively will heat up the silicon die on the MOSFET switch. The part is damaged at a certain temperature and the designer needs to manage the device well enough to stay within the safe operating temps. It can be tricky.
I love your videos. They are just clean, concise and detail oriented.
I'm always looking forward to your videos to learn more. Keep up the great work Mr.Scott
Really enjoy how you explain the elements as you go through the projects. Very clear even to a non electronic guy. 😁
What I appreciate about this post is the suggestion to take the circuit apart right after the work is done. Not to enjoy the experiment too long, but to move on directly to the next one.
Idk why but your segments where you write and explain really sink in more mentally than if you were to just be talking. It's partially what keeps me engaged in the videos 👌
Very cool. There might be a big market for eFuse demo boards with trim-pots for adjusting voltage and current control, and Pheonix connectors so people could wire these into their projects. Post-assembly powered functional testing would be a great application. I can't tell you the number of times I've seen small circuits boards scrapped during manufacturing because there was a short somewhere that damaged something on first power up (during functional testing). By controlling the power to the UUT, these could even protect against damage to other components in a system or the test equipment, to some extent.
Scott, you’re a LEFT handed genius
Watching this after accidentally reversing voltage and blowing up my buck converter along with some other electronics
Hey thats exactly what I've just done! Stoopid circuits....
@@bobbyferguson8802 same. Blew up a 555 a few hours ago
At least we saw whata mosfet looks on the inside! Its orange
me too, $10 loss :(
@@JohnUsp 10$ for a buck converter that doens't even have a fuse or overvoltage protection? Sounds like a shit deal ngl.
You’re amazing, thanks for sharing all this knowledge. I’m a hobbyist and you make easier for all of us to understand and apply the concept to our projects. Thanks!
For reverse voltage protection just pop a full bridge rectifier IC before the eFuse and boom you have circuit working in normal and also in reverse polarity. The 1.2V drop might not be goos though.
Commodore 64 has a notoriously bad PSU with its 5V DC overvoltage mishaps. This would be a great project to do an overvoltage protector for it! Nice one, "Scott"!
You're 40 years too late. SMH
@@DiffEQ You're 41 years too late. SMH my head.
Thank you for sharing your vast knowledge! My biggest problem now is geographical location, since I now live in Brazil (6000 miles away from my native England), there are very few components available here, you need to order from China or buy in quantities of thousands from Farnell, Mouser etc!
Now, I can't sleep at sunday(Korean time)
because this time is when your video normally uploads!
Sleep later, learn first xD
@@jubaerhasan4723 lol true
I hope you still enjoyed the video ;-)
true
Spectacularly good timing having just got to the point in a project where I'm thinking about protection circuits. I discovered that, having laboured long and hard on the project, it draws so little current that the power banks I've tried to used to power it simply switch off. We're back to batteries and the inevitable possibility of some klutz (likely me!) getting the power in wrong.
As ever, great video. Thanks 😊
It's an absolute non-feature, they should at least make it possible to disable. I guess you could always add a parallel power resistor that burns off some extra current to make the ""smart"" power bank know you don't want it to shut down. Sounds incredibly stupid when thinking about it, intentionally wasting power of a battery... Good lord, modern electronics.
@@westelaudio943 yup, the extra resistor running in parallel would likely do the deed, but we're agreed that this is a complete waste of power. I would have thought that a function to switch this mode off on a power bnak wouldn't be too hard to engineer. A long press on the power on button, perhaps?
Great, maybe this is my next solution, working with colleagues capable of breaking anything they touch...
One thing I've learned at work is: _Regardless of the amount of protection I put in my circuits, my (non-tech) colleagues will always find a way to destroy them..._
They have:
- Put a powered PCB on top of a metal table, during testing...
- Ripped a USB-B port of my board, trough hole version...
- Reversed the polarity, on a prototype in which I told them to wait on me before powering it...
- Used the wrong adapter / battery / voltage...
- Used it outside without proper watertight enclosure...
- Put multiple PCB's on top of each-other, while powered...
- Peeled of a 0402 capacitor, because they thought it looked like a dirty breadcrumb...
- ...
I would dare the military to lend them one of their armored vehicles, for testing purposes. My colleagues would probably break it within the next 5 minutes, by just looking at it.
The other day I connected a 3.3 volt voltage regulator to 12 volts. Switching the switching power supply on and off went well several times. But when switching, the power supply unit must have charged itself to over 14 volts, limit of the V regulator. The voltage regulator short-circuited and the circuit behind it suddenly had 7 volts.
I heard the 4 volt tantalum capacitor explode.
The IC behind it was specified up to 5.5 volts, but survived.
From my box I then put a diode and a 78L12 in front of the new 3.3 volt voltage regulator.
So the 3.3 V regulator doesn't see more than 10 to 12 volts, that's in the rules.
The 78L12 will not be able to regulate well with a 12 volt input, but it will certainly withstand voltage peaks.
I didn't have a 78L09 that would be the better choice.
Another possibility would be to build a 3.3 volt regulator with an LM317. But I didn't have any space left.
Staedtler felt marker pens are the best for diagrams. Good choice!
Besides fusing we could use a power surge protection system that safeguards the electronics to prevent the most susceptible components in our radios.
Hi. I am late to the party but when a short is created on the circuit, does power resume immediately when the short is removed? Or is there some sort of reset necessary?
Great video as always! The only thing that wasn't very explanatory to me is what and why was exactly calculated to realize the under voltage protection
Im not sure if you have mentioned this before but another method of reverse voltage protection is a bridge rectifier circuit. Then no matter the polarity, the circuit still gets the correct polarity at the sacrifice of the small voltage drop of the diodes.
but you will have extensive voltage drop on 2 diodes, even if you use Shottky. And power losses.
@@markderlo212 "extensive" is relative to the project. Most diodes I have used in this exact scenario have a 0.7 Volt drop. That was no where near "extensive" for my purposes.
Awesome! Will def incorporate this into my circuits.
Side note. Man, you only need ONE pass with a highlighter.
All that is needed for reverse voltage protection is a Schottky diode in series with Vcc. It has a typical Vf of about .15 volts.
only at low currents; @ 500mA it will be at least 0.4V and if you have already a supply of say 3V3 then you will get 2V9 or less to supply you circuit - it simply might be too low. And that eFuse @ 500mA will have a drop of just ~ 45mV
I nailed the "Let's get started!" with you first play through
Thanks for the video and tip. Normally you go too fast with the explanation, but this time everything was easy to follow.
Glad it was helpful!
Probably pointed out already but so far the comments I have read did not say it. What I generally do to add a simple reverse voltage protection, is just using an bridge rectifier. There is a small drop in voltage but in the cases I have used it, it does not really mater. With this, more than a protection it allows to use whatever polarity you give to it. Did not know of these circuits either.
I just use automotive fuses and prewired fuse holders. They're cheap and simple and are easy to connect using wago 221s or spade crimp connectors.
But then again my circuits look very different to yours. I use a lot of relays and premade modules, because I don't have the time or patience to solder or prototype stuff.
These Efuse IC's are very different to the current limiting automotive fuses. This chips are mainly interested for variable voltage power supplies such as batteries - and protect from undervoltage, overvoltage, over and under current and reverse polarity, rather than over current. they're mainly interested for areas where user error is involved and server grade equipment rather than a standard fuse.
Watching your videos is pushing me to learn electronics and do some DIY projects
Thanks
You should definitely do it. You don't need to spend a lot either. Get yourself a ESP32 or ESP8266 or an Arduino Uno - and some basic components and you'll be going onto more advanced things in no time. Always a great place to start as they're cheap and easy to learn basic principles! Good luck :)
Finally a pure electronics video is out! We love these videos keep making them.....thanks!
Great video. Pro-tip: Wait for the pencil paint to dry completely before using the highlighter.
Walkie talkies!!
At least I am not the only one. Looking forward the video.
Can't say how much valuable information it was thanks man
It was actually very very helpful ♥️
Wow! What a coincidence? I was thinking of efuses(the ones used by Samsung Knox) today in the evening.
I knew it ;-)
Those efuses are a different thing. The ones in this video are like fuses but better - more controllable, resettable...
The Samsung ones are a bit more evil. They will blow if you modify the firmware and there is no way to reset them. A similar concept is used in laptop batteries, if the BMS circuit detects any problems it will blow a fuse and disable the circuit, making it unnecessarily hard to repair the battery.
@@sasodoma Consoles also use them to prevent people downgrading the firmware to an exploitable version
@@sasodoma Yeah, the are mostly to permanently store data.
Thanks for this video, this eFuse ic simplifies a lot building circuits by reducing the amount components used for protection and safety :)
Yep. My thoughts exactly :-)
@@greatscottlab i have to redesign my future DIY multi channel lab bench psu because of this and thanks to this will be even better
Why not use a diode bridge and ldo? It'll CONVERT to the correct voltage, AND correct any polarity to the circuit.
The LDO can be chosen to avoid over current. Some have thermal shutdown too.
I really appreciate your videos. Even when I don't feel like going to the bench for a week or two, these are so easily digestible and are perfect small applications I can make use of later. Thanks!
Very well produced and clearly explained video. Thank you.
I find it easy enough to use a simple diode for reverse voltage protection. A step further would be a bridge rectifier. Either would prevent current from flowing in reverse through the project whatever it might be.
That's a good solution for a fixed power circuit but if you're using batteries you're reducing your voltage headroom by whatever the diode reverse voltage is. Using a P-Channel mosfet gets around that issue since you can spec ones with really low Rds on. I did that for a battery powered high-precision frequency source last year.
0:45 that struggle is real.
Happens way too often ;-)
@@greatscottlab USB-C for the win!
Hi, best reverse voltage protection it the bridge diode rectifier ;-)
My expirence states that Arduinos/AVRs don't really need reverse current protection if fused. When connected backwards - those start to fry consuming more than 500mA tripping fuses before any real damage is done. Don't want to experiment though.
When thinking about Mouser or DigiKey some insane shipping costs come to my mind
Generally not any worse than Aliexpress and it doesn't take a month.
I normally purchase from Jameco since they have reasonable pricing and wave shipping and handling for orders over a certain limit. I used Mouser a few years ago since they were the only supplier that had a specific value inductor that I needed for a MMIC circuit. Shipping UPS ground was at a flat rate of $5. Just now I checked and they charge $7.99 to ship an order via UPS ground, UPS 2nd day, or FedEx 2nd day. They have no minimum order requirement. Tbh, it isn't worth placing a small order. I'd order a lot of ten at 79 cents each or add other items to the order.
And then come the EU customs. 23-27% tax on all costs (parts + shipping), then customs and customs handling fees added on top, then you pay VAT on the customs handling fees as well. That's how you pay $70 for $2 worth of parts. And the paperwork, oh misery.
@@gumo77 When I ordered from Mouser they payed the custom for me, and had it delivered to Sweden. No problems can't that is how they always do.
you could use a rectifier bridge for reverse voltage protection
Your videos are amazingly useful and instructive. Thanks!
Such a cool video. Ill watch this a few times. I want to protect my drone build
wish I had an efuse on my last project;
killed it with accidental short
Thanks for the product review, this one is new to me. I'll be using this in the future.
AWW MAN
Electronics basics
Love the basics
Again here commenting just after getting notification by leaving my all work aside whose deadline has past a year ago🤣
Glad you like them!
@@greatscottlab always have been
I love your channel. Solid content. After every sentence you take a breath in and it maddens me.
But but but, if he didn't breath, then he'd die. Who would we get such great videos from then??
konten konten terbaik dari channel ini 👍👍👍 channel terbaik
Good to learn about the ic.Thanks!
More videos like this, about chips and circuits
Thanks you for making a video on protecting circuits.
You are welcome and I also already did a few about this topic.
Im Just thinking can you use a full Bridge rectivier to protect for Reverse Vorlage?
"where's the fun in reading the datasheet?"
1 min later: "according to the datasheet..."
I joke, you have great detailed videos. Thanks for explaining even the basics, this helped more than my undergrad degree ever did.
Would be nice to see an eFuse with external power MOSFET, to handle higher currents.
Great video, but choose a more exciting example project than a blinking led
Very informative. I was using a power bank in a project and it would cut out all the time, after roughly a few seconds. I've also tried my very good Anker power bank and it behaved the same. So I've given up on that and just use a 2S lipo directly. I don't think I was drawing a huge amount of current.
Some powerbanks go into sleep mode when there is no current or little current that they classify as no current.
@@tmkkka8093 This is my current hypothesis, but it still seems to turn off faster than I'd expect and would do so even while I'm drawing current controlling motors in the 500mA - 1A range. Overall, I'm just not happy using power banks to run my projects.
Interesting IC, I didn't know about it, thanks for the video. Cheers! :)
GreatScott, why not just use a full bridge rectifier for reverse voltage "correction"? It can even work with reversed voltage!
Do you warn JLCPCB of the upcoming demand, before you create these videos? I see that JLCPCB does have one model in-stock for SMT assembly (with limited supply)--but I wonder how long that will last, now that you've educated everyone!
can you make a device that control multiple batteries (having seperate BMS, different capacity, different age). the device can have multiple terminals to connect multiple battery banks and able to control charge/discharge without hurting the older/smaller battery. I think this could have potential application for solar battery bank that we can combine any batteries with different types, ages and capacity.
For reverse voltage you could just throw a full bridge rectifier, Then there Are no reverse voltages
Bro please tell you how great of all electronics hobbiest and best of electronics is Great Scott
And how you learned all the basic electronics and how to understand the circuit diagrams easily to make a project by understanding the circuit diagrams because of difficulty to understand the circuit diagrams
Awesome! Thanks a lot, dude! 😃
Stay safe and creative there! 🖖😊
Thanks, you too!
How do you reset the Efuse??
GREAT VIDEO!!!!......again
Looking at the picture in aliexpress, the product that you linked in video description does not look like the one in video. Can you check the link?
Do these cheap protections come with costs to efficiency? Obviously the overvoltage case did but the others weren't immediately obvious to me.
I know it may be a bit of a meme to say old John's is the best but it really actually is. I'm not sure what the black thing is meant to be!
Thanks for so interesting and easy to follow videos!👏🏻 would this eFuse also work as a protection for USB port in a computer while connected to an Arduino board in a circuit powered with an external 12Vdc power supply? I’m worried for my laptop USB integrity when plugging it to externally powered circuits.
Best reverse voltage device is a bridge rectifier
I didn't want to deal with this mess so with my last product I put in a bridge rectifier and check the voltage with a voltage divider before my device turns on. Seems like a good option if you have a free ADC pin and it works fine with reverse voltage and only requires the bridge rectifier and 2 resistors. Same cost, fewer parts.
The only downside I can think of is voltage drop. Why would you advise against this strategy instead?
How about a undervoltage protection for a 18 volt power tool accu.
"A new new awesome project"
When you say eFuse, will it also act lick a traditional fuse if there is a dead short on the output, if so how does it reset?
Thanks
They're very awesome indeed... unless you're a console hacker
What does that mean console hacker what do you do with it iam getting into hacking so iam scraping as much information
I'm making a project that needs the voltage current limited to 150mA. I want to use the Efuse for this project, what resistor value do I need to limit the current to 150mA?
Much appreciated this topic.. Thank you for sharing.
My pleasure!
The greatest scott!
Thanks for the great video as usual
What powerbanks do you use?
Have you ever built the portable power packs like you used in this video?
Great video, thanks. Would like to hear more about timing and power envelopes, for example, would an eFuse chip be suitable for managing/protecting the pulse loads caused by stepper motors operating at high speed?
You videos are always fun and informative to watch. Just a quick note, absolutely nothing negative, but somehow you tend to add an "s" after a consonant at the end of some words, while speaking. Is it because German is your motherlanguage? Anyways, two thumbs up!
Nice idea 💡
Love this video, currently struggling with how to power a project and this will be a great help! If you could do a video on powering projects with mains 12v power supplies that would be great.
What do you mean by mains 12v power supply. Do you mean just 12v DC? (Through an adapter plugged into AC wall power?. If so the source (i.e mains) has nothing to do with the 12v and you only have to deal with the 12v DC - exactly the same as if it were coming from a battery. Hope that helps
Why not just use a Schottky rectifier for inverted polarity protection?
Cool video, diode and fuse for protection..
Nice just was in need of a power protection circuit for my project
and over current(I did not skip forward)
I have a GaN Charger that uses both an eFuse and a Resettable Fuse
efuse!
New knowledge!
Thanks a lot!
My pleasure!