I chuck the bearings in the freezer and the case in the oven at 150c, when mum's gone shopping 😉 don't forget to air the kitchen or you'll get sprung. Great work.
That last part where you tap the crank on either side was a breth of fresh air my crank sat perfect with 0 resistance🎉. Thanks for the video. It helped alot
Yep, done a couple of rebuilds of these engines on my old slider. Once as it's was trashed when I brought it. The other time when the oil pump failed. Are you going to install a gear up kit to go with the 70 kit?
We didn't get the Slider in Australia, but we did get the PGO PMX which is a very close copy of the Slider, fun to ride! No not on this one, the customer just wants a little bit more acceleration as he's primarily riding in 60kph zones. He'll get that, and more🤘😎🤘
Its better to hammer the bearing with a piece of wood instead of a metal socket. Or on a wooden table. Ive seen them crack with the slightest touch of the hammer on the socket. And also on the rolling nut cases in the cvt cover when they hammer the case in by hitting on the clutch side. Ive also got a request if i may: Could you please make a video explaining the functionality of the brass weights on the Stage6 Torque control clutch? I cant find info on it anywhere.. only that its used on some kartings jetskis and snowmobiles .. but not what they actually do and how to set it up. Btw Love your videos
Yes so true.. As long as the bearing internals aren't stressed I'd imagine wood would do the trick too. I personally like that the socket ensures that only the outer ring of the bearing receives pressure. In most cases we would have a block of wood underneath the casing, but the plastic ended hammer we have here is pretty soft.
@@scooterstreetau true but it was not in the bearing slot, where i saw them crack 4 times (on 1 i did it) was almost in the middle of the case, where it curves down after the variator area :/ Specially if the case isnt flush with the table, that 1mm play makes all the difference. I hollowed out a piece of wood to fit the outter ring of the bearing and hammer on the wood, and the case on a yoga matt 🤣 I believe it happens more often on old stressed cases.
@@scooterstreetau nice one, love all your videos. Got a 95 pre bug couple of weeks ago. Exact same as one I had in 98 when I was 16. Stock 50cc. Upgrading slowly but surely. Much love from Liverpool England.
In the early days the Aerox and BW100 were very popular in Aust. Still to this day there is a fair trade for these 2 models. Use the factory crank unless converting to the water cooled engine upgrade.
The last bolt seized removal operation, is also a trap into the obvious well practiced solutions like heat, essential for red loctite addicts , but not always clear for me is to replace the good bolts and torque down so distortion is minimal . Trained professional eyes always tuned in is what mechanics tell they poses. Pain in the neck brother .
Always a good idea to exercise restraint with loctite.. We usually only recommend for brake bolts, and used sparingly at that. The best rule (particularly with hex bolts) is if a bolt is even remotely questionable, replace it.
When filming a video for YT we try to do it in a manner that shows it can be done at home by someone with little tool time and a small arrangement of tools.
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I chuck the bearings in the freezer and the case in the oven at 150c, when mum's gone shopping 😉 don't forget to air the kitchen or you'll get sprung. Great work.
😂😂 Love these stories...just cooking Zuma cookies..
That last part where you tap the crank on either side was a breth of fresh air my crank sat perfect with 0 resistance🎉. Thanks for the video. It helped alot
Ahh cheers, An old racer/mechanic showed me this back in 2006 and it works.
Brother can you give all names of the parts those have been removed and replaced. Please
Seeing how often you work on scooters,I'm amazed that I am yet to see you guys use a case splitter or crank puller.
We will do our best to keep amazing you🪄
Yep, done a couple of rebuilds of these engines on my old slider. Once as it's was trashed when I brought it.
The other time when the oil pump failed.
Are you going to install a gear up kit to go with the 70 kit?
We didn't get the Slider in Australia, but we did get the PGO PMX which is a very close copy of the Slider, fun to ride! No not on this one, the customer just wants a little bit more acceleration as he's primarily riding in 60kph zones. He'll get that, and more🤘😎🤘
Its better to hammer the bearing with a piece of wood instead of a metal socket. Or on a wooden table. Ive seen them crack with the slightest touch of the hammer on the socket. And also on the rolling nut cases in the cvt cover when they hammer the case in by hitting on the clutch side.
Ive also got a request if i may: Could you please make a video explaining the functionality of the brass weights on the Stage6 Torque control clutch?
I cant find info on it anywhere.. only that its used on some kartings jetskis and snowmobiles .. but not what they actually do and how to set it up.
Btw Love your videos
Yes so true.. As long as the bearing internals aren't stressed I'd imagine wood would do the trick too. I personally like that the socket ensures that only the outer ring of the bearing receives pressure.
In most cases we would have a block of wood underneath the casing, but the plastic ended hammer we have here is pretty soft.
@@scooterstreetau true but it was not in the bearing slot, where i saw them crack 4 times (on 1 i did it) was almost in the middle of the case, where it curves down after the variator area :/
Specially if the case isnt flush with the table, that 1mm play makes all the difference.
I hollowed out a piece of wood to fit the outter ring of the bearing and hammer on the wood, and the case on a yoga matt 🤣
I believe it happens more often on old stressed cases.
@@joaomelo61 Yes we should do better, we have a sheet of condensed foam 60mm thick. We use it next time to show more care🤩
How do you replace the 2 bushings where you mount the engine to the subframe mine blew out riding
Use a press to push them out and install new, some people use bearing but the rubber provides the best cushioning.
@@scooterstreetaui just ordered some bearing because i didnt find bushings but i dont wanna split my case again
The bearings offer short term solution and they have no give.@@robintanckere7822
@@scooterstreetaudo you maybe know where i can buy rubber fittings for the engine mount
Yamaha@@robintanckere7822
Do you just use general brake cleaner in the pressurised bottle? Sorry for the silly question.
Yes🚿🔫
@@scooterstreetau nice one, love all your videos. Got a 95 pre bug couple of weeks ago. Exact same as one I had in 98 when I was 16. Stock 50cc. Upgrading slowly but surely. Much love from Liverpool England.
@@mojofilter96 Thanks Mojo🙌 These scooters are a classic now, very hard to come by now. 🍻
How do you get the bearings off the crank without damaging them?
Special bearing pulling tool. Google "bearing puller"
Do you guys have these parts on your website for the Yamaha Zuma 50cc scooter because I would absolutely love to buy them
Yes we do, here is the link.
www.scooterstreet.com.au/product-category/yamaha-zuma-50/
@@scooterstreetau thanx merry Christmas to guys at the shop
@@nigelmcclure6440 👍👍🎄🎄🎅🎅
Pls help. My zuma making a whirring/ screeching noise when I rebuilt my bike but im 99% sure i lube the bearings
Lightly tap the crank shaft on the right hand side, if this does not help dismantle the engine and find the issues.
@@scooterstreetau thank you i will try
As a MBK/Yamaha collector, i appreciate this videos so much. How rare is a aerox 100cc in Australia? And which crank is safe to install these days?
In the early days the Aerox and BW100 were very popular in Aust. Still to this day there is a fair trade for these 2 models.
Use the factory crank unless converting to the water cooled engine upgrade.
Would love more yamaha jog r stuff
No Jog R in Australia, we only have CY and CV.
I just actually subscribed to your Channel right now bud because do you sell your parts on your website
Thanks for the SUB, it helps us make more Vids. Much appreciated🎅
Hi what crankshaft company made it ?
Jasil
The last bolt seized removal operation, is also a trap into the obvious well practiced solutions like heat, essential for red loctite addicts , but not always clear for me is to replace the good bolts and torque down so distortion is minimal . Trained professional eyes always tuned in is what mechanics tell they poses. Pain in the neck brother .
Always a good idea to exercise restraint with loctite.. We usually only recommend for brake bolts, and used sparingly at that. The best rule (particularly with hex bolts) is if a bolt is even remotely questionable, replace it.
I think it's good customer service to speed the process up like that in order to reduce the customer's labour charge.
When filming a video for YT we try to do it in a manner that shows it can be done at home by someone with little tool time and a small arrangement of tools.
Brother can you give all names of the parts those have been removed and replaced. Please
High compression Crankshaft, Main bearing and oil seals, Tecnigas exhaust, Malossi sport 70cc kit, Malossi vriator.
@@scooterstreetau thank you soo mush
@@scooterstreetau I have an old mbk like yours that I want to rebuild it thank you
Ok will be a great project.@@aliamran6954
I put it together to the point you did in the video and the crank doesn’t spin
Check it out find out why. Are seals correct?
@@scooterstreetau i haven’t put the seals in yet, my buddy says that it’s probably not correctly mounted bearings but i put them in pretty good
@@blaz4698 Ok chek the bearing are inserted all the way in to the cases. Split and try again👍👍
Weak steel to be eatin by some aluminum?💩
Yes indeed. Thanks for watching.
Always love you're content.
We appreciate the support✌@@tjjohnston7920