@@nostalgiaholic4874 They're illegal is most places from what I've heard but it's not enforced much. People will be buying these for many years to come from what I assume.
@@nathanburrill8000 gotta read the fine print. Engine size is important. I can run a 49 cc with no license. I have a driver's license and cars but I'm making a 49cc because it's legal in my city. Gunna have the law screenshot just in case I get stopped. A high visibility vest will help you get left alone because you are less of a danger btw. Shows you are trying to be safe.
@@nostalgiaholic4874it might not be road legal but getting your hands on them will be incredibly easy. In Canada if you put it on a bicycle and it runs on gas then it’s a moped or scooter, doesn’t matter what displacement. Yet you order them online and they shop right to you.
The issue with the bearings crushing in the new tensioner pulley - you can solve that problem with a bearing spacer from a skateboard wheel setup designed for that very purpose in that application as these pulleys uses the identical 608 type bearings. If the distance between the bearings differs to that of a skateboard wheel, then I'm sure it can be sorted with a Dremel or an angle-grinder.
@@nathanburrill8000 yep indeed they are, I throw in those bid-dollar 'bones' high precision bearings (that Tony Hawk used to endorse) into my pulleys just because I can lol
Tension is the biggest key to belt drives. Ask anybody with a belt drive motorcycle just how tight those belts are. I would say that the belt is tensioned right if you can't roll the belt past 90 degrees when turning it by hand. Then the next challenge you have with all that tension will be bearings.
As a motorbike rider who has worn many a sprocket down to shark"s teeth, it is extremely valuable to me to have a voice in the yt community who obviously has experienced and knows well the travails of the two-stroke bicycle path.
I had a Kawasaki 250 street bike with belt drive, and it was nice. Cut down on vibrations, don't have to worry about it stretching, and it's quieter. I liked that bike. I have owned a ton of different older motorcycles. My first Motorcycle was a Hodaka Super Rat 100. I have owned a Can Am, and KTM as well, along with all the common Japan brands. These motorized bike are what we as kids wished we could do with chainsaw engines. 30 years later, and it's a reality. I feel like a kid again. lol
Good video! I always wondered about the belt drive like so many other people. Thanks for the review. I was surprised that the front or the rear pulleys didn't have walls on the sides to keep the belt from falling off. I guess the walls on the tensioner was enough. Yes, you're right about the tension being very important because the size of the teeth on the pulleys and the belt are so small when compared to a chain sprocket. It doesn't take much loss in tension for the teeth to skip. Frame rigidity could be the problem that causes the belt to lose tension. That's something you cannot fix!
Belt tension WILL be your undoing. I know it's not quite the same, but the belt drive on my 4 stroke transmission stripped really quickly even though it felt tight. Although I ordered a new belt from a specialist, I really didn't have the 4 stroke running long enough to tell if it was just a quality issue or not
Shift Kits are great if you're reasonably mechanically inclined. My first motorized bike was built from the frame up with a older steel road bike frame, semi deep dish wheels, 7 speed cassette, a strong derailleur, heavy duty BMX chain, parts from 2 different "china girls" and Sick Bike Parts shift kit with a White Industries hub. After working through engine reliability issues I could ride it for a month on end without issues. It could lift the front tire from a stand still and hit 40mph on flat. I posted a picture on a bike forum back in like 2016-17. I don't agree with you saying it's a bad sign that there isn't many videos with follow ups. Some of us use our bikes to do things other than post videos of our bikes. Sorry maybe I should have but I was homeless at the time while trying to maintain at least one job and a bunch of other stuff. I've thought about a shift kit with all belts. Could be cool if for nothing else the novelty but that's a novelty I probably won't be doing immediately. Regardless thanks for posting content trying to help with MB's.
Really do enjoy your vids even though I haven't touched a motorized bike in two years . The arch style tensioner was one of the best products I bought for my bike and work on the Cranbrook well . I also used a lawnmower deck pulley for my tensioner wheel . Worked like a charm. Adjusting my chain was a 3 minute ordeal . You make my favorite motorized bike channel . You aren't selling a product , your sharing experience ! Thanks for sharing your passion , its hard to get good information as a new tinkerer . You make things nice for the novice assembler ! When I first laid my hands on a motorized bike accurate information was rare so I did a lot of surfing and had to decifer right from wrong by reading comments . You eliminate that problem. Thanks for your hard work!!!
I could see these working well with the BT80 Bullet Train. Since it has electric start and a centrifugal clutch, there would never be sudden application of load.
I heard what you said about 2 stroke pull start kits. A while ago I bought a pull start kit for my 2 stroke. Unfortunately when I tried to test it, it was about 8 degrees outside and there was no way it was going to start the bike at that temperature. Soon after I took the kit off because I had no money at the time to buy extended pedal crank so I would not be able to pedal. It was just a generic amazon pull start kit but it was very well made and came with all the hardware required to install it. It even came with instructions which was a first. I would say if you have wide pedal cranks then get one because then you can start your bike without pedaling. It would be especially easy to tune your bike or work on it because instead of going out and starting it, you can just start the bike inside or at the shop area. As always awesome video and have a good day. Although I think overall a chain is better than the belt kit. Good luck fixing belt slack.
I also have installed the belt drive system on my Motorbike I named Frankenbike. It's my first belt drive system and I'm loving it. I did have a small issue with the tensioner bearing, but thanks to your videos and trial and error it's a great system. Mad Luv N Respect!
Sounds like the belt drive would be a good add on for the BT80 engine, or as you said towards the end of the video, a 4 stroke build. I'm currently running a huasheng 49cc 4 stroke on my F-zero and may try it.. though the BT80 kits have been looking better by the day. Either way, I feel a belt drive could be beneficial to my city commuter. Thanks for the solid review!
Great information I was seeing these kits and was wondering what the results would be. Just bought that same bike to do my second gas bike build. Learned some do's and don'ts on the first build on my 30 year old Huffy scout.
You are mistaken sir, the number one killer of front forks is broom handles! lol This channel has become my number one go-to info spot when i need a straight forward and thorough no-bull examination of anything motorbike related. My bike is a Schwinn "SWindler" - i am in the process of spring overhaul and freshening up at the moment. I know many would balk at the springer front end of the Swindler, but it is adjustable and I ride on roads and highways only and it has served me well. I did have to cut out a bit of the secondary frame to fit the engine head but i have a Fred Chelminski 6cc and they are super tall. Also, as far as I know, they are no better than the cheaper aftermarket heads made in China which run about 40 bucks nowadays?
Thanks for the video I was wondering about the belt drive I’ll stick with a chain don’t mind the noise and if it breaks I have an extra one in my bag was thinking there’s got to be a Weedwhacker out there with a pull start that’ll work on our motors
Back in the '60s, one of the major players (I believe it was Toro), brought out a lawn mower that had a rather unique starter. To use it, you popped up the folding lever/ hand crank at the top. Then you wound it against spring tension 4 or 5 revolutions. When you flipped the lever back over again, it released the spring and the motor would make 9 or 10 revolutions on it's own. It was almost never necessary (unless you NEVER did any maintenance), to have to doit twice in order to get the motor going.
if you add the spacers that are on a skateboard truck it allows you to get adequate tension without crushing the bearing but i went with the angle tensioner for more stability and reliability
Well I have my 2nd thoughts on purchasing a belt drive kit. I appreciate the review an installation of the kit incase I purchase one in the future Be safe and enjoy the ride🤟
Sweet.Thanx for reviewing those.The teeth ripping sound is exactly why I hadn't bought a kit too.I am also waiting for a 'Pull start'kit that's not pot metal and plastic.I'm seriously leaning towards drilling a hole in the magneto cover,and using a rubber plug after starting with a battery powered drill.
For the riding you do trails" I'd definitely slap on some decent suspension forks" no more numb hands & helps smooth out the ride as well as vibration and we all know that vibration helps to make things loose if it's not Teflon knotted or loctited I found some 140 mm front forks that are pretty decent they're actually air assisted with a lockout so you get the best of both worlds suspension and a regular stiff fork" found an ocean Pacific op frame heavy gauge aluminum and rear dropouts the dropouts are great for motorbikes they're very reminiscent of a BMX frame called a thruster, which are really cool since you can put an axle dropout adjuster on each side to center your rim and keep it where it needs to be even when you have the axle tightened it's a little more insurance and security
Ma respect to you ma guy definitely looking forward to ordering me a driveblet kit thanks for the video like always love the vibe may god bless you guys out there stay safe may God bless the family and the whole world 🌎🙏
Motorized bikes are such a wonderful idea, and they have been around for a really long time. I remember the "Bike Bug" front wheel friction drive kit from Sears back in the '70s. But it absolutely amazes me that such a great idea that has been around for so long has not evolved into something a zillion times better. In fact, the "Bike Bug" may have actually been better quality than anything available today. Ebikes, which I consider to be almost completely worthless unless you want to ride somewhere that a gas bike is not allowed (and it needs to be a fairly short ride due to the extremely limited no pedal range on Ebikes) have evolved into very high quality bikes, where everything fits and works properly, without having to be rigged, yet gas bikes have not. Gas bikes like Helio and PhatMoto LOOK like they are well designed and well made, but are still basically junk. It seems like rear mount friction drive is the best and most reliable way to power a bike with a gas engine, but it eliminates mountain bike tires. Frame mount chain drive, which seems to be the most popular, also seems to be by far the worst. Chainstay mounted chain tensioners made out of tin and plastic screen door rollers, and rag joint rear sprockets, made out of the sidewalls of old tires, both of which will do their best to kill you, engines, gas tanks, and exhausts that don't fit properly, it's like there isn't anything that isn't wrong with these kits. I know it doesn't need to be that way. I have put tens of thousands of miles on factory made mopeds, like Puch, Tomos, Peugeot, and a few others, doing 500+ mile trips at 30 mph, without a single problem. Everything fit, everything was well made, (true, none of it was made in China) and there are still mopeds (which are motorized bicycles, they have a 2 stroke engine and pedals) from the '70s out there which still run fine today. I have a 1979 Puch/Kromag that I wouldn't hesitate to take anywhere. Unfortunately mopeds are no longer made. It sure would be nice if gas powered motorized bicycles could be made as well as mopeds used to be. Toothed belts are actually a very reliable drive system. They are currently used on many very large motorcycles, including Harleys. The only difference between those and what you have seems to be quality, or lack thereof.
In Poland, GNOM bicycle engines were produced in the 1950s, and Malcherek in the 1930s and after the war. In general, friction drive is the worst possible solution; the main disadvantages are rapid tire wear and the roller slipping on a wet surface. WSK Gnom silnik rowerowy 0,6 km th-cam.com/video/dltyEb6xV5c/w-d-xo.html SILNIK ROWEROWY MALCHEREK DO ROWERU SM 57 th-cam.com/video/_zWcbHAGj_M/w-d-xo.html For more videos search: gnom silnik rowerowy or rower z silnikiem Stefana Malcherka
Nice, might get one for an electric build. Those HTD5m pulleys in large sizes are extremely expensive and 120t like this as I could tell isn't even available to get. Plus it fits to the nice hub mount. For belt tension: they like to be tight tight. So get the right sized belt length ideally.
Watch a motorcycle video on belt drive VS chain drive, pros and cons. Sadly one is not overall superior to the other. The biggest pro to a belt drive seems to be longer life and less maintenance but it robs a bit more power than chain and can't be used on high HP motorcycles. Using the lightest wheel, chain, rear sprocket and tire with the least rolling resistance as possible will create less rotational mass and make a noticeable increase in power.
18:36 You mention the 2 problems belt tension and belt slipping/belt teeth shredding.I noticed when you installed the belt tensioner that it was too near the left side frame dropout which will not give much possibility of adjustment.Perhaps the belt is too long and its not like a chain where you can remove a link.Sixty dollars..no.I'm going to stick with the 415 chain.
I believe that your tensioner should be as close to the front sprocket as possible this will help a lot the halfway chain drive position of the tensioner not a good spot for the belt you want it right next to the drive gear for sure!
I was seriously thinking about getting one of these. I run an arch chain tensioner. I'm wondering if that would help with getting the right tension? Thanks for the review!!! I'm just now getting into the motorized bike thing and i'm addicted. Thanks for the review. Subbed!! 👍
I bet your slipping belt problems will be over, if you put another tensioner, right behind the motor, like a spring loaded type. Get it real close to the little cog, so it can get the belt to wrap around it better and have the tension really close to it, when you try to start it.
To keep drive gears, chain or belt from wearing out to early and lasting! Looser belt - chain slack is better than being to tight, more friction equals wearing out parts and breaking things. Top end will be slower when to tight and to much friction!!! Chain slack in the center top measurement. I run between 1/2" minimum and a 1 and 7/8" maximum. To snug and I could barely pedal my motorized bike.
Don't do off road riding so I run the Staton friction drives so I can use various 2stroke powerheads and don't like the long heavy chains seems like a small ' V ' belt would be more reliable and longevity . if perfected I would go w the 80cc motors especially if someone like Zanoah would do a *12 or 14k rpm motor
You said there were 2 bearings that if you tighten they lock? You need to disassemble them and put a washer in between that only hit the inner diameter but not the outer diameter, basically finding the correct diameter. Not sure if it came with the correct inner and outer washers but you need those also.
How bout try putting a ebike front motor hub on one of the 2 stroke bike to make it AWD, I’m attempting to do a bike build like this but would like to see a full installation and review of it.
For that tensioner with 2 bearings, it should have a specific metal shim/spacer washer/cylinder between the two bearings inner races, such that you're clamping on much harder metal that is supported for a fixed width, where you wont even touch the bbs to tighten since outer races held by themselves together or shim rim inside machined pulley. Of course it can also depend on mount bolt, is it long enough, does it have enough stand off to support first inner race without pulley grinding sides or is it all threads? I think a v-style belt that is thicker that runs on pulley 'sprockets' mounted with high tension of course would work a lot better. Typically what scooters use.
Did China girl philosophy is that if it's not broken, break it and if someone else advances the design hopefully it's easy for her to reverse engineer it
Carry a good folding saw on the Rides. Can't hurt to cut up the trees to help clear the roads. The belts drives worry me. I have experiences with Belt Drives on everything that had them.
I stumbled onto this type drive by Googling serpentine belt drive for motorized bicycles... but showed nothing of the sort on the serpentine belt Drive... so maybe I will hit the junkyard and experiment... it could work... they hold up under Heat under a hood.... thought about a AC compressor electric 12 volt clutch also..... anyway it's just an idea... have to see where it goes... maybe a 212 predator with electric 12 volt Magneto and Battery????
Nice tutorial video but my engine kit didn't come with a sprocket puller, and I ordered one for 9 dollars and it didn't fit. Do you know were I can order one that does fit?
Starting can be be avoided with a electric start engine, a few exist but i have no experience,they also seem to have better pull starters as well but and part compatibility is slim between them and the chinadolls, and tensioning would probably be easier with a ranbow tensioner, just my 2¢
I like the belt drive but i had to take mines off because I had the wrong size belt I don’t have a regular bike so I had to order belts & ordered one not wide enough & it kept goin sideways while trying to start it & yea I do not like that start up sound & I was thinking the same thing need a pull start will be better but overall the belt drive is great 👍🏾
Can you do a 40mile durability test on the Lock and Load friction bike I'm thinking about getting one myself but I don't know if I can come up with the money just yet and I'm seeing how durable they are I know I want to get one of those over the kind that you usually use just because of less maintenance and less parts that can break I'm 21 and I've had 4 open-heart surgeries 3 heat Strokes I have really bad arthritis and because of the heat Strokes I can't be out in the heat for too long so I'm looking for something I can get out there with and enjoy that I love doing still without the worry of breaking down and being out of luck cause I don't have a vehicle...
hi my name is John, I'm from Australia, I have a50cc 2 stroke, my engine is hooked up to the where the pedals are, but I cut of the pedals,so I have 21 gears,it has a larger sprocket on the engine side so it will take of, I can use all the normal gears, and it goes like a motorcycles
Hey, i know this is not a yd100 motor but it would be interesting to see a video about possibly cutting the top off the jug to make a 2 peice head. This would mean you could easily check your cylinder and piston aswell as add a high compression head, ive heard about it and seen it done 1 time before. Ill link the video in the replies if i can find it. Edit: i found the video and linked it in the replies
Hi, I wanted to build a motor bicycle but I was wondering what engine kit to buy. Should I buy the zeda 80 for 180? Or should I get a cheap chinese kit for 100$ because I can't find a place that ships the pk80 to my address
Hey I love the vids! I just put together my kit on Saturday and had a few minor problems. When I pedal the bike up to about 10mph and drop the clutch the bike wants to start, but quickly loses power and stalls. Just wondering if any of these are potential causes, fuel mixture (16:1), low idle? When it does start, the following frequently happens...I engage the clutch when slowing to make a turn, the engine races even if I’m not touching the throttle. Any tips or advice would be appreciated!
The issue I'm running into now is that the wheel becomes difficult to freely spin with all this belt tension... The tighter the belt the harder the motor has to work :(
What's a good cheap bike to motorize. My kit will be here Tuesday. I was gonna use my old mountain bike but it's in worse shape then I remembered so I'm looking into buying a new bike to pit it on
Hi, I think I can make it work. I put the Preditor 212cc on my Schwinn trike & it's a monster. Having some spoke issues but I have a pair of motorcycle wheels on the way. It's insane & I don't recommend anyone do it. My phone showed 64 mph and throttle left. Biggest issue is stopping it.
I cannot say how correct you are if you want more speed jackshaft is not the trick go to a 32 or 36 sprocket you will lose your takeoff speed but the motor work last longer just because if you're cruising 20 30 mph you don't have to tack it out that's all I personally believe 30 40 miles an hour is fast enough on a bike I did not feel this way a while back if you want to make your bike last get good spokes and a hub adapter instead of the rag joint that comes in the kit plain and simple that's the solution
![[#2024MAMA] ROSÉ (로제), Bruno Mars - APT. | Mnet 241122 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dgGqD28J6aQ/mqdefault.jpg)
next thing to test is the jackshaft or centrifugal clutch :)
yep. he should test it
The issue with those pulleys is the hardware used to attach them.
I usually start my bike by kicking down on the pedal with the bike up on the center kickstand.
That's such a nice looking bike, HOVER.
too much time and money for little power. might as well go with the Predator 79 or 212. that's my personal options i can't speak for the rest.
It's only a matter of time until someone releases a CVT kit for these
I don’t think so there becoming illegal in more places all the time only a matter of time till you can’t get these anymore from what I understand
@@nostalgiaholic4874 they will still be produced for a long time for sure.
@@nostalgiaholic4874 They're illegal is most places from what I've heard but it's not enforced much. People will be buying these for many years to come from what I assume.
@@nathanburrill8000 gotta read the fine print. Engine size is important. I can run a 49 cc with no license. I have a driver's license and cars but I'm making a 49cc because it's legal in my city. Gunna have the law screenshot just in case I get stopped. A high visibility vest will help you get left alone because you are less of a danger btw. Shows you are trying to be safe.
@@nostalgiaholic4874it might not be road legal but getting your hands on them will be incredibly easy. In Canada if you put it on a bicycle and it runs on gas then it’s a moped or scooter, doesn’t matter what displacement. Yet you order them online and they shop right to you.
The issue with the bearings crushing in the new tensioner pulley - you can solve that problem with a bearing spacer from a skateboard wheel setup designed for that very purpose in that application as these pulleys uses the identical 608 type bearings. If the distance between the bearings differs to that of a skateboard wheel, then I'm sure it can be sorted with a Dremel or an angle-grinder.
Good idea. I didn't realize they were the same size before
@@nathanburrill8000 yep indeed they are, I throw in those bid-dollar 'bones' high precision bearings (that Tony Hawk used to endorse) into my pulleys just because I can lol
Tension is the biggest key to belt drives. Ask anybody with a belt drive motorcycle just how tight those belts are. I would say that the belt is tensioned right if you can't roll the belt past 90 degrees when turning it by hand. Then the next challenge you have with all that tension will be bearings.
Thank god someone that makes quality videos decided to review this. I’ve been considering it but I couldn’t really find out if it was worth it
Glad I could help!
Yeah you're interested in I love it from Jamaica Everton don't come from Jamaica you could really really nice and interested
Maybe thank someone besides God
As a motorbike rider who has worn many a sprocket down to shark"s teeth, it is extremely valuable to me to have a voice in the yt community who obviously has experienced and knows well the travails of the two-stroke bicycle path.
thanks Swamp DuDe
I had a Kawasaki 250 street bike with belt drive, and it was nice. Cut down on vibrations, don't have to worry about it stretching, and it's quieter. I liked that bike. I have owned a ton of different older motorcycles. My first Motorcycle was a Hodaka Super Rat 100. I have owned a Can Am, and KTM as well, along with all the common Japan brands. These motorized bike are what we as kids wished we could do with chainsaw engines. 30 years later, and it's a reality. I feel like a kid again. lol
Good video! I always wondered about the belt drive like so many other people. Thanks for the review. I was surprised that the front or the rear pulleys didn't have walls on the sides to keep the belt from falling off. I guess the walls on the tensioner was enough. Yes, you're right about the tension being very important because the size of the teeth on the pulleys and the belt are so small when compared to a chain sprocket. It doesn't take much loss in tension for the teeth to skip. Frame rigidity could be the problem that causes the belt to lose tension. That's something you cannot fix!
FINALLY!! I’ve been waiting for someone to THOROUGHLY test this kit! Thank you!!!
Belt tension WILL be your undoing. I know it's not quite the same, but the belt drive on my 4 stroke transmission stripped really quickly even though it felt tight. Although I ordered a new belt from a specialist, I really didn't have the 4 stroke running long enough to tell if it was just a quality issue or not
Shift Kits are great if you're reasonably mechanically inclined. My first motorized bike was built from the frame up with a older steel road bike frame, semi deep dish wheels, 7 speed cassette, a strong derailleur, heavy duty BMX chain, parts from 2 different "china girls" and Sick Bike Parts shift kit with a White Industries hub.
After working through engine reliability issues I could ride it for a month on end without issues. It could lift the front tire from a stand still and hit 40mph on flat.
I posted a picture on a bike forum back in like 2016-17.
I don't agree with you saying it's a bad sign that there isn't many videos with follow ups.
Some of us use our bikes to do things other than post videos of our bikes.
Sorry maybe I should have but I was homeless at the time while trying to maintain at least one job and a bunch of other stuff.
I've thought about a shift kit with all belts. Could be cool if for nothing else the novelty but that's a novelty I probably won't be doing immediately.
Regardless thanks for posting content trying to help with MB's.
I'm a jack shafted bike guy myself and I too have wondered whether this would be a good setup for the primary
Really do enjoy your vids even though I haven't touched a motorized bike in two years .
The arch style tensioner was one of the best products I bought for my bike and work on the Cranbrook well .
I also used a lawnmower deck pulley for my tensioner wheel . Worked like a charm.
Adjusting my chain was a 3 minute ordeal .
You make my favorite motorized bike channel . You aren't selling a product , your sharing experience !
Thanks for sharing your passion , its hard to get good information as a new tinkerer . You make things nice for the novice assembler !
When I first laid my hands on a motorized bike accurate information was rare so I did a lot of surfing and had to decifer right from wrong by reading comments .
You eliminate that problem.
Thanks for your hard work!!!
I just got my motorized bike put together the other day and took her for a ride yesterday and she flies 👌🏻
I could see these working well with the BT80 Bullet Train. Since it has electric start and a centrifugal clutch, there would never be sudden application of load.
I heard what you said about 2 stroke pull start kits. A while ago I bought a pull start kit for my 2 stroke. Unfortunately when I tried to test it, it was about 8 degrees outside and there was no way it was going to start the bike at that temperature. Soon after I took the kit off because I had no money at the time to buy extended pedal crank so I would not be able to pedal. It was just a generic amazon pull start kit but it was very well made and came with all the hardware required to install it. It even came with instructions which was a first. I would say if you have wide pedal cranks then get one because then you can start your bike without pedaling. It would be especially easy to tune your bike or work on it because instead of going out and starting it, you can just start the bike inside or at the shop area. As always awesome video and have a good day. Although I think overall a chain is better than the belt kit. Good luck fixing belt slack.
I also have installed the belt drive system on my Motorbike I named Frankenbike. It's my first belt drive system and I'm loving it. I did have a small issue with the tensioner bearing, but thanks to your videos and trial and error it's a great system. Mad Luv N Respect!
I was one of the people that requested this. Thank you man. I almost bought that same kit
Skateboard wheels have a metal spacer between the bearings on the axle to prevent squeezing together! Put a steel tube spacer in tensioner wheel
Great vid.love the trails. glad someone reviewed belt drive
Thanks 👍
Sounds like the belt drive would be a good add on for the BT80 engine, or as you said towards the end of the video, a 4 stroke build. I'm currently running a huasheng 49cc 4 stroke on my F-zero and may try it.. though the BT80 kits have been looking better by the day.
Either way, I feel a belt drive could be beneficial to my city commuter. Thanks for the solid review!
Great information I was seeing these kits and was wondering what the results would be. Just bought that same bike to do my second gas bike build. Learned some do's and don'ts on the first build on my 30 year old Huffy scout.
Yeah! A new HOVER video!
You are mistaken sir, the number one killer of front forks is broom handles! lol This channel has become my number one go-to info spot when i need a straight forward and thorough no-bull examination of anything motorbike related. My bike is a Schwinn "SWindler" - i am in the process of spring overhaul and freshening up at the moment. I know many would balk at the springer front end of the Swindler, but it is adjustable and I ride on roads and highways only and it has served me well. I did have to cut out a bit of the secondary frame to fit the engine head but i have a Fred Chelminski 6cc and they are super tall. Also, as far as I know, they are no better than the cheaper aftermarket heads made in China which run about 40 bucks nowadays?
Thanks for the video I was wondering about the belt drive I’ll stick with a chain don’t mind the noise and if it breaks I have an extra one in my bag was thinking there’s got to be a Weedwhacker out there with a pull start that’ll work on our motors
Back in the '60s, one of the major players (I believe it was Toro), brought out a lawn mower that had a rather unique starter. To use it, you popped up the folding lever/ hand crank at the top. Then you wound it against spring tension 4 or 5 revolutions. When you flipped the lever back over again, it released the spring and the motor would make 9 or 10 revolutions on it's own. It was almost never necessary (unless you NEVER did any maintenance), to have to doit twice in order to get the motor going.
if you add the spacers that are on a skateboard truck it allows you to get adequate tension without crushing the bearing but i went with the angle tensioner for more stability and reliability
Best TH-cam channel for motorized bikes, love it
Well I have my 2nd thoughts on purchasing a belt drive kit. I appreciate the review an installation of the kit incase I purchase one in the future Be safe and enjoy the ride🤟
Sweet.Thanx for reviewing those.The teeth ripping sound is exactly why I hadn't bought a kit too.I am also waiting for a 'Pull start'kit that's not pot metal and plastic.I'm seriously leaning towards drilling a hole in the magneto cover,and using a rubber plug after starting with a battery powered drill.
Be carful, the threads on the mag nut strip out really easy. I found out the hard way
@@LAHover Oh.Ok,Thnx.
Great video..👍 This answered some questions (or thoughts ) I had about trying this set up on my personal bike.. 🚴♂️Great Demo..👍
Glad it was helpful, thanks :)
I wonder if using a compression release while starting would give a little softer start if that makes sense
Cool video. I like your dedication to this hobby and to sharing with others the wealth of information you have.
For the riding you do trails" I'd definitely slap on some decent suspension forks" no more numb hands & helps smooth out the ride as well as vibration and we all know that vibration helps to make things loose if it's not Teflon knotted or loctited I found some 140 mm front forks that are pretty decent they're actually air assisted with a lockout so you get the best of both worlds suspension and a regular stiff fork" found an ocean Pacific op frame heavy gauge aluminum and rear dropouts the dropouts are great for motorbikes they're very reminiscent of a BMX frame called a thruster, which are really cool since you can put an axle dropout adjuster on each side to center your rim and keep it where it needs to be even when you have the axle tightened it's a little more insurance and security
Dop frame is a beach cruiser and it already has the 12 gauge spokes
Test a centrifugal clutch or jackshaft
Ma respect to you ma guy definitely looking forward to ordering me a driveblet kit thanks for the video like always love the vibe may god bless you guys out there stay safe may God bless the family and the whole world 🌎🙏
Motorized bikes are such a wonderful idea, and they have been around for a really long time. I remember the "Bike Bug" front wheel friction drive kit from Sears back in the '70s. But it absolutely amazes me that such a great idea that has been around for so long has not evolved into something a zillion times better. In fact, the "Bike Bug" may have actually been better quality than anything available today. Ebikes, which I consider to be almost completely worthless unless you want to ride somewhere that a gas bike is not allowed (and it needs to be a fairly short ride due to the extremely limited no pedal range on Ebikes) have evolved into very high quality bikes, where everything fits and works properly, without having to be rigged, yet gas bikes have not. Gas bikes like Helio and PhatMoto LOOK like they are well designed and well made, but are still basically junk. It seems like rear mount friction drive is the best and most reliable way to power a bike with a gas engine, but it eliminates mountain bike tires. Frame mount chain drive, which seems to be the most popular, also seems to be by far the worst. Chainstay mounted chain tensioners made out of tin and plastic screen door rollers, and rag joint rear sprockets, made out of the sidewalls of old tires, both of which will do their best to kill you, engines, gas tanks, and exhausts that don't fit properly, it's like there isn't anything that isn't wrong with these kits. I know it doesn't need to be that way. I have put tens of thousands of miles on factory made mopeds, like Puch, Tomos, Peugeot, and a few others, doing 500+ mile trips at 30 mph, without a single problem. Everything fit, everything was well made, (true, none of it was made in China) and there are still mopeds (which are motorized bicycles, they have a 2 stroke engine and pedals) from the '70s out there which still run fine today. I have a 1979 Puch/Kromag that I wouldn't hesitate to take anywhere. Unfortunately mopeds are no longer made. It sure would be nice if gas powered motorized bicycles could be made as well as mopeds used to be.
Toothed belts are actually a very reliable drive system. They are currently used on many very large motorcycles, including Harleys. The only difference between those and what you have seems to be quality, or lack thereof.
In Poland, GNOM bicycle engines were produced in the 1950s, and Malcherek in the 1930s and after the war. In general, friction drive is the worst possible solution; the main disadvantages are rapid tire wear and the roller slipping on a wet surface.
WSK Gnom silnik rowerowy 0,6 km
th-cam.com/video/dltyEb6xV5c/w-d-xo.html
SILNIK ROWEROWY MALCHEREK DO ROWERU SM 57
th-cam.com/video/_zWcbHAGj_M/w-d-xo.html
For more videos search:
gnom silnik rowerowy
or
rower z silnikiem Stefana Malcherka
Well done on video good information 🚲💨💨💨💨💨 seen those belts before but never got into it thanks for showing 💨💨💨💨🤙👍💯
Thanks 👍
@@LAHover welcome 🚲💨💨💨💨💯🤙👍
Always wanted you to try one of those out before I buy one to see what will happen
Nice, might get one for an electric build.
Those HTD5m pulleys in large sizes are extremely expensive and 120t like this as I could tell isn't even available to get.
Plus it fits to the nice hub mount.
For belt tension: they like to be tight tight.
So get the right sized belt length ideally.
dam my guy gotta whole bag full of wheels for those tension setups lol
Was thinking about going this route. Not bikebarry, amazon had same thing much cheaper. Im worried about bearings waring faster with more tension.🤔🍻
Watch a motorcycle video on belt drive VS chain drive, pros and cons. Sadly one is not overall superior to the other. The biggest pro to a belt drive seems to be longer life and less maintenance but it robs a bit more power than chain and can't be used on high HP motorcycles.
Using the lightest wheel, chain, rear sprocket and tire with the least rolling resistance as possible will create less rotational mass and make a noticeable increase in power.
Just built a huffy cranbrook. My coaster was hitting the bolts on the sprocket. If you tighten those bolts a little more they should clear it.
Thanks for all your work
I have the golden eagle kit with a Tanaka 40cc 2 stroke with a gates belt, and it chews belts rather easy. Alignment is super finicky
I was thinking the same to just add the spring tensioner as well as the frame mount one. Hopefully that will alleviate any slack or slipped.
18:36 You mention the 2 problems belt tension and belt slipping/belt teeth shredding.I noticed when you installed the belt tensioner that it was too near the left side frame dropout which will not give much possibility of adjustment.Perhaps the belt is too long and its not like a chain where you can remove a link.Sixty dollars..no.I'm going to stick with the 415 chain.
Just commented on your wipeout video just wanted to thank you for all your videos and it should help with my installs this week.
I believe that your tensioner should be as close to the front sprocket as possible this will help a lot the halfway chain drive position of the tensioner not a good spot for the belt you want it right next to the drive gear for sure!
A pull start kit will help. They do make them for 2 strokes.
3:16 what do I do if I already striped the teeth on the puller? Do I have to buy a new one or is there any way to fix it.
what si8ze sprocket
I was seriously thinking about getting one of these. I run an arch chain tensioner. I'm wondering if that would help with getting the right tension? Thanks for the review!!! I'm just now getting into the motorized bike thing and i'm addicted. Thanks for the review. Subbed!! 👍
Now that you mention it, I do think the arch tensioner would be the best way to go. In fact I think I will try one too. Thanks for the tip :)
@@LAHover you're welcome. looking forward to the review
Lots of great info 👍 that’s good content sir
Much appreciated
That blue Cranbrook is almost irresistible
what you could do is weld a coaster brake slot on there like threesixzero does with their frames with their coaster break setups
just make sure it's on the upper side like i had done with my crainbrook
If you can get past the slippage it seems like it'll be alright for the street
I agree. Side note, I have no idea what it will do if it gets a little wet.
A pull start mod would fix that, but they aren't reliable enough.
@@jonathanvaldez2460 I was thinking the same. I may still try one anyways.
@@LAHover I would watch how that goes.
I bet your slipping belt problems will be over, if you put another tensioner, right behind the motor, like a spring loaded type. Get it real close to the little cog, so it can get the belt to wrap around it better and have the tension really close to it, when you try to start it.
To keep drive gears, chain or belt from wearing out to early and lasting! Looser belt - chain slack is better than being to tight, more friction equals wearing out parts and breaking things. Top end will be slower when to tight and to much friction!!! Chain slack in the center top measurement. I run between 1/2" minimum and a 1 and 7/8" maximum. To snug and I could barely pedal my motorized bike.
Don't do off road riding so I run the Staton friction drives so I can use various 2stroke powerheads and don't like the long heavy chains seems like a small ' V ' belt would be more reliable and longevity . if perfected I would go w the 80cc motors especially if someone like Zanoah would do a *12 or 14k rpm motor
You said there were 2 bearings that if you tighten they lock? You need to disassemble them and put a washer in between that only hit the inner diameter but not the outer diameter, basically finding the correct diameter. Not sure if it came with the correct inner and outer washers but you need those also.
Great review... I would like the belt drive but like you said, a good pull start system still doesn't exist...
Nice belt job try riding it in the neighborhood paved streets etc, hard to tell what's going on ? But great video thank you
How bout try putting a ebike front motor hub on one of the 2 stroke bike to make it AWD, I’m attempting to do a bike build like this but would like to see a full installation and review of it.
Nice video amigo, well I stay with the chain....😊 Cheers from Portugal.
Could you do a jackshaft kit next
U pop out 1 bearing on idler and fabricate a sleeve and pop the bearing back and the bearings wont crush
For that tensioner with 2 bearings, it should have a specific metal shim/spacer washer/cylinder between the two bearings inner races, such that you're clamping on much harder metal that is supported for a fixed width, where you wont even touch the bbs to tighten since outer races held by themselves together or shim rim inside machined pulley. Of course it can also depend on mount bolt, is it long enough, does it have enough stand off to support first inner race without pulley grinding sides or is it all threads?
I think a v-style belt that is thicker that runs on pulley 'sprockets' mounted with high tension of course would work a lot better. Typically what scooters use.
As ling as these engine been out u think They would have upgraded them threads to thicker ones
Did China girl philosophy is that if it's not broken, break it and if someone else advances the design hopefully it's easy for her to reverse engineer it
I was thinking about doing the same thing, but I kept thinking about the stretch and the tension, and by the way your cat looks just like mine
Awesome video
Awesome video. Thank you for doing this for us. End with a bang. Lol
you have a lot of compression just by loocking that gear not spining even when hammering
What if instead of grease for the chain, you get something sticky for the belt?
Miss my bike gotta get it back together
Great videos! Is your bike a Huffy?
People hit the brakes there and speed up there. That's why the ruts are there
That make sence.
About flats. Invest in popless inner tubes. they are a life saver.
Carry a good folding saw on the Rides.
Can't hurt to cut up the trees to help clear the roads.
The belts drives worry me. I have experiences with Belt Drives on everything that had them.
I stumbled onto this type drive by Googling serpentine belt drive for motorized bicycles... but showed nothing of the sort on the serpentine belt Drive... so maybe I will hit the junkyard and experiment... it could work... they hold up under Heat under a hood.... thought about a AC compressor electric 12 volt clutch also..... anyway it's just an idea... have to see where it goes... maybe a 212 predator with electric 12 volt Magneto and Battery????
Nice tutorial video but my engine kit didn't come with a sprocket puller, and I ordered one for 9 dollars and it didn't fit. Do you know were I can order one that does fit?
Starting can be be avoided with a electric start engine, a few exist but i have no experience,they also seem to have better pull starters as well but and part compatibility is slim between them and the chinadolls, and tensioning would probably be easier with a ranbow tensioner, just my 2¢
See BT 80 engine kit for e start and pull start
I'm confused. You turned the wrench clockwise to loosen the original sprocket, but turning it clockwise tightened the new sprocket?
I wondered about that for a few seconds too.Inside bolt to break off,and the removal tool had reverse to put into the gear.
the puller has a small plunger that screws in and pushing on the clutch shaft. This pulls/pushes the sprocket off the shaft.
@@LAHover oh that's right. You did say you used the puller for both applications.
I like the belt drive but i had to take mines off because I had the wrong size belt I don’t have a regular bike so I had to order belts & ordered one not wide enough & it kept goin sideways while trying to start it & yea I do not like that start up sound & I was thinking the same thing need a pull start will be better but overall the belt drive is great 👍🏾
Can you do a 40mile durability test on the Lock and Load friction bike I'm thinking about getting one myself but I don't know if I can come up with the money just yet and I'm seeing how durable they are I know I want to get one of those over the kind that you usually use just because of less maintenance and less parts that can break I'm 21 and I've had 4 open-heart surgeries 3 heat Strokes I have really bad arthritis and because of the heat Strokes I can't be out in the heat for too long so I'm looking for something I can get out there with and enjoy that I love doing still without the worry of breaking down and being out of luck cause I don't have a vehicle...
mine did not last 5 miles :( I do not recommend the friction drive kit.
@@LAHover Thank you for your reply back, guess I'll have to look into more kits...
hi my name is John, I'm from Australia, I have a50cc 2 stroke, my engine is hooked up to the where the pedals are, but I cut of the pedals,so I have 21 gears,it has a larger sprocket on the engine side so it will take of, I can use all the normal gears, and it goes like a motorcycles
I am shift gears up or down.
Hey, i know this is not a yd100 motor but it would be interesting to see a video about possibly cutting the top off the jug to make a 2 peice head. This would mean you could easily check your cylinder and piston aswell as add a high compression head, ive heard about it and seen it done 1 time before. Ill link the video in the replies if i can find it.
Edit: i found the video and linked it in the replies
th-cam.com/video/hvhQk6f3pKU/w-d-xo.html
Any tighter you would think it would be hard on the bike wheel bearings. Cool though. Lets see how it does with some of that thick mud you have there!
Be careful as tbis may over tighten the Mag nut.
The pull start for these engines are attached to the Mag rotor.
I actually bought 2 different pullstart kits and neither ever worked regardless of any adjustments.
Pick up the back tire and kick start it with the petals won't work unless motor starts easily
Hi, I wanted to build a motor bicycle but I was wondering what engine kit to buy. Should I buy the zeda 80 for 180? Or should I get a cheap chinese kit for 100$ because I can't find a place that ships the pk80 to my address
Hey I love the vids! I just put together my kit on Saturday and had a few minor problems. When I pedal the bike up to about 10mph and drop the clutch the bike wants to start, but quickly loses power and stalls. Just wondering if any of these are potential causes, fuel mixture (16:1), low idle? When it does start, the following frequently happens...I engage the clutch when slowing to make a turn, the engine races even if I’m not touching the throttle. Any tips or advice would be appreciated!
Mr Bike, thanks I’ll look into those!
Are you leaving the choke up by chance?
@@LAHover No
Where has LA hover been?
HOVER What IF YOU PUT A ARCH TENSIONER WITH DOUBLE PULLEY ONE PULLS DOWN OTHER ONE PULLING UP .MAYBE YOU WOULDN'T NEED THE SPRING TENSION .
The issue I'm running into now is that the wheel becomes difficult to freely spin with all this belt tension... The tighter the belt the harder the motor has to work :(
You should test a Centrifugal clutch that they sell on ebay
Good day sir quik question can a 36 sprocket Bolt on a the same place where the dis normally install on the rear hub
What's a good cheap bike to motorize. My kit will be here Tuesday. I was gonna use my old mountain bike but it's in worse shape then I remembered so I'm looking into buying a new bike to pit it on
Don't know if I would want a belt drive on a trail rider, maybe street only... By the way where's the star of the show Henry ? lol
Hi, I think I can make it work. I put the Preditor 212cc on my Schwinn trike & it's a monster. Having some spoke issues but I have a pair of motorcycle wheels on the way. It's insane & I don't recommend anyone do it. My phone showed 64 mph and throttle left. Biggest issue is stopping it.
I've got a 49cc 4 stroke and a bt80
Hello, I have a 49cc kit. Can I convert it to 80cc?
Please help. Greetings from Turkey
I cannot say how correct you are if you want more speed jackshaft is not the trick go to a 32 or 36 sprocket you will lose your takeoff speed but the motor work last longer just because if you're cruising 20 30 mph you don't have to tack it out that's all I personally believe 30 40 miles an hour is fast enough on a bike I did not feel this way a while back if you want to make your bike last get good spokes and a hub adapter instead of the rag joint that comes in the kit plain and simple that's the solution