Thank you for the clear and concise tutorials. Definitely one of my top favorites for ONI tutorials. Sadly, my dupes are still starving, suffocating, and making messes. Oh, and I have glob monsters coming out of the overflowing toilets. I'm hopeless, but still having fun.
I must admit pufts are certainly one of, if not the most difficult critters to ranch. I haven't run one before, but I have researched designs and have an idea in mind. I will run lots of tests to ensure they then work in practice!
pufts are a little tricky, but not hard. the way to think of it is like this, pufts to themselves will only drop puft prince eggs. puft princes only drop puft eggs. when both are in the same room, the puft will create a 49%, 49%, and 2% chance of laying a dense, squeaky, or prince egg respectively. ranching the puft and puft prince are super easy, since the prince only needs oxygen to support. a 6-prince stable can be established in your colony serviced by a spom. as for the puft, you will want to have a sublimation station being fed by ethanol distillers. one sublimation station supports up to 8 pufts, enough for 88 dusk caps. the squeaky puft is not something you would build a large ranch for. the reason is that the only source of chlorine is from the chlorine vent, and from space flights. furthermore, you only need one, due to the incredible .5 kg/cycle bleach stone consumption of the waterweed plant. this means that one puft will support 57 plants. so, you only need to have a large room where excess pufts and puft princes can be added to get the one or two eggs needed. dense pufts are the hardest to manage, but i imagine that it can be kept going by keeping the incubators for both dense pufts and princes in a large reserve room. this will keep the dense puft egg laying chances for more dense pufts high.
@@commonsense-og1gz While I appreciate the reply and in-depth look, my main reason for the need of bleach stone is unrelated to cooking up some lettuce. It’s for the geotuner building as increasing water production is more intriguing to me. Unfortunately I know the mechanics of puffs but less so the best way to use automation to “set and forget” the ranch. Luckily Echo’s first ranching video was for pufts so I’m no longer worried.
@@commonsense-og1gz I agree with most of what you say, but the issue is doing a 'set and forget' ranch for dense or squeaky pufts. There is no really simple way to do it in any of the normal ways other ranches work, so as far as I can work out a timer based system is needed.
@@xenosai371 I'm interested to see how Echo's design works in practice, it seemed a little inelegant, and not at all scaleable. If you do run it then please let me know how it goes. I have come up with a similar idea using timers, but I believe I have a neater execution that is scaleable, and I'll include that in the puft critter tutorial bite.
To think I view this video series in such high regard, I save them for later. Relishing a tutorial video for dining or a comfortable spot? Dissapointment in myself or a major applaud for you.
Thanks, although I didn't really have in mind that going through the critters (and then plants) was really an extension but should be part of key tutorials. It's just that you can't do all the critters justice in one video without making it super long. They really do vary a lot when you think about it!
@@GCFungus Which is still the best way to deal with it. Too many videos out there for ONI that are 30+ minute of some guy rambling on without getting to the point when they are suppose to be a tutorial
The hatch may be the most perfect creature that ever existed. They're cute, they eat rocks and poop out coal, and are delicious. They're really the cow of the ONI universe. (Just never ever, and I repeat ever, watch them lay an egg.)
I do like hatches, but they aren't my favourite as I find their sustainability to be much worse than the slickster. IMO the slickster is like the better hatch and lets me play with oil!
Hello , ty for ur guides, can I keep a cuddle pip in the incubator room? or is that gonna mess the automation up for lullabies? like for example cuddle pip setting off the automation without any dupes nearby to lullaby, or to turn off the incubator without the egg getting lullabied. (also cuddle pips are heavier then dupes which is kind of bad for automation with weight) another question I have is about the timers, isnt there 600 seconds in a cycle? and we have 615 seconds on our automation, so eventually we are gonna miss cycles in the long run right? sry kind of new to the game, and I am not sure about these.
Yes the cuddle pips to walk on the weight plates, so as far as I'm aware you have to use the timer sensors. For your second question, there is indeed 600s in a cycle, but the lullabied buff duration lasts for the 600s. That's why the timer waits for 600s and is not cycle based. Yes it will move in relation to the cycle (you probably want an uptime of more like 60-90s depending on how big your base is), but this is the most efficient way.
I'm not sure what you specifically mean by room requirements, but if you mean the amount of space each critter requires (and therefore the maximum you can fit in a 96 tile ranch), then I presented the numbers here as the stable limit, and it is also available on the wiki. If you mean more detail about what is needed to ranch each critter, then that is what I am covering in the individual Critter Tutorial Bites.
This is only somewhat related, but do you feel this is any value is stating that the true hard mode achievement of ONI, beyond the settings, is a temporal run without Ranching critters? I say this only because I feel ever since its inception, and the release of the critter sensor, that ranching totally eclipsed farming for everything, really.
I'm not sure I entirely agree, I think farming is still equally as viable as ranching in terms of quantity produced. Even simply using bristle blossoms makes easily sustainable food, and wild planting is always a good option. Critter meat certainly has a lot of advantages too though.
If BBQ wasn’t so high of a morale food, I think it would bother me much less. Dealing with quantity problems is hardly fun, but quality / complexity is the soul of the game and BBQ is way too easy.
@@Waggabagaboo BBq is the same quality as Berry sludge (that doesn't spoil and doesn't require a skill) and grub preserve (Spaced out) and one less than mushroom wrap and stuffed berry, it's not that big of a deal
There's one criter stat that's been neglected quite a bit. The age of a wild criter at which it lays an egg. Would you include that info in specific criter videos?
I hadn't thought to because generally it's just not very important. Most critters are best ranched domestically, and if you are using wild critters then their egg production rate is generally unimportant. The only real exception I can think of is pokeshells which are difficult to feed domestically. Did you have something specific in mind that you wanted the info for? The information is available on the wiki too.
@@GCFungus I extensively use various wild criters for many roles, and each has it's own small benefits. • Main one is: if kept for passive refinement without care, they are little bit more efficient. Compared to 20% of glum tamed ones, wild criters have 25% metabolism. Examples: sage hatches trapped around the compost pile; slicksters at the bottom of a pit without constant source of CO2 (just as cleaning agents); or smog slugs as free pumps in a room adjacent to a Saturn hydrogen farm. • They don't starve if not fed and only given enough space. Examples: longhair slickster at the top of a closed CO2/chlorine chamber to remove tiny amounts of unwanted oxygen. If tame one is kept like that it can starve before any accidental oxygen for removal would appear. In most cases I keep them in big enough room not to make them confined, but trapped with minimal space to move to save frames on pathfinding. For example: It's nice to keep that longhair one on a single tile with a deodorizer. That way any offgassing pO2 will be filtered and deleted as well, and they don't require to move to inhale (unlike pufts, or morbs to pass gas) thus removing its pathfinding completely. So the overall rule is: wild criters reproduce around 2/3 of their lifespan, but it's actually quite unique for each. It is spot on 100/150 for grubgrubs for example, but it's 20/25 for shine bugs, and 65/100 for hatches, so if you're trying to micro relocation or ~manual evolution~ just before or after the egg is laid, then this number matters. Example: if the room is not big enough, keeping criters with their eggs (after they reproduced) can halt other criters reproduction to the point when you're "naturally" diminishing the population with time. In this case, finding ones that laid an egg and removing them keeps the population "under"-crowdedat all time. ;) ...aaaalso I'm a sucker for keeping the world as wild as I can and i enjoy micro dupes and criters as much as automating stuff. :P So IDK, maybe it's just my silly playstyle, but I use that info quite often -and since there's no such info on wiki- [EDIT. the info is there. i'm just blind], I was wondering if you'd include that information in your tutorials (which are the best out there imho btw
For the eggs, isn’t there possibly a better way with automation to ensure that the number of eggs in the stable remains just high enough to not cramp them?
You can do a system that only removes eggs when the total count is above 8 (using a critter sensor), but it can be difficult to not sweep them all out in one go, or to have eggs constantly looping on a conveyor rail. My current position, though, is that there is no benefit to leaving the eggs in the ranches. Removing them quickly always guarantees the ranches are running at maximum production and having the eggs inside has no benefit. As long as you have the incubators then the ranches will always be filled when a critter is available, and you don't even need to power them to get that benefit. I suppose the cost at that point would be the refined metal, which isn't too hard to get in large amounts from the mid game.
Just curious, but will you be doing a video on updated Geotuner builds? I'm definitely struggling to make one with only 5 Geotuners. They're barely hot enough for steam turbines and cooling these rooms seems really difficult
@@fooltheroyal8691 For those it should be fairly straightforward I believe. The hot water geysers will output at 195 degrees with 5 geotuners, so simply put steam turbines on and collect the water out. For the cool vents, they will now produce at 90 degrees so can simply be pumped out. The polluted water seems the most tricky as it would make 130 degree water, but with some geotuner inefficiency it may be difficult to keep high enough - in which case you'll have to treat like a cool steam vent (the easiest way is generally to cool these). In all cases you'll need an aquetuner cooling loop for the steam turbine, but that's fairly standard.
i cant wait to see pacu farming. In every playthrough i have never farmed pacus, i just let them die naturally. But i can see for certain start biomes like swamp and certain efficient ways to get isoresin i would need to learn how to do this.
it's super easy, you make a box of mesh tiles so they don't swim away from the feeder with enough space for a feeder, a fish release and maybe a shipping bin and a auto sweeper to take the eggs away automatically, then you can either starvation ranch them forever for a whole lot of pacu fillet (and lag), put the eggs next to boiling petroleum so they flop towards it and die or put them in a storage box in boiling petroleum so they break, become raw egg and instantly become omellete
By far the most common way is drowning, which I will explain for relevant critters. The general idea is to raise the water level when critters are detected (using airlocks), and then dropping it once they are dead. Many of the critters though might also be useful if left alive.
I didn't know Cuddle Pips existed and when they hugged the egg I think my heart melted.
"They evolve into meat" this is the lowkey version of the phrase "If animals don't want to be eaten then why are they delicious?"
Thank you for the clear and concise tutorials. Definitely one of my top favorites for ONI tutorials. Sadly, my dupes are still starving, suffocating, and making messes. Oh, and I have glob monsters coming out of the overflowing toilets. I'm hopeless, but still having fun.
I'm sure you'll get there - keep at it!
"size like many things in life it matters"gave me a laugh !!
I can not wait to see how you deal with pufts considering you always seem to have an elegant solution for things
I must admit pufts are certainly one of, if not the most difficult critters to ranch. I haven't run one before, but I have researched designs and have an idea in mind. I will run lots of tests to ensure they then work in practice!
pufts are a little tricky, but not hard. the way to think of it is like this, pufts to themselves will only drop puft prince eggs. puft princes only drop puft eggs. when both are in the same room, the puft will create a 49%, 49%, and 2% chance of laying a dense, squeaky, or prince egg respectively. ranching the puft and puft prince are super easy, since the prince only needs oxygen to support. a 6-prince stable can be established in your colony serviced by a spom. as for the puft, you will want to have a sublimation station being fed by ethanol distillers. one sublimation station supports up to 8 pufts, enough for 88 dusk caps.
the squeaky puft is not something you would build a large ranch for. the reason is that the only source of chlorine is from the chlorine vent, and from space flights. furthermore, you only need one, due to the incredible .5 kg/cycle bleach stone consumption of the waterweed plant. this means that one puft will support 57 plants. so, you only need to have a large room where excess pufts and puft princes can be added to get the one or two eggs needed.
dense pufts are the hardest to manage, but i imagine that it can be kept going by keeping the incubators for both dense pufts and princes in a large reserve room. this will keep the dense puft egg laying chances for more dense pufts high.
@@commonsense-og1gz While I appreciate the reply and in-depth look, my main reason for the need of bleach stone is unrelated to cooking up some lettuce. It’s for the geotuner building as increasing water production is more intriguing to me.
Unfortunately I know the mechanics of puffs but less so the best way to use automation to “set and forget” the ranch. Luckily Echo’s first ranching video was for pufts so I’m no longer worried.
@@commonsense-og1gz I agree with most of what you say, but the issue is doing a 'set and forget' ranch for dense or squeaky pufts. There is no really simple way to do it in any of the normal ways other ranches work, so as far as I can work out a timer based system is needed.
@@xenosai371 I'm interested to see how Echo's design works in practice, it seemed a little inelegant, and not at all scaleable. If you do run it then please let me know how it goes. I have come up with a similar idea using timers, but I believe I have a neater execution that is scaleable, and I'll include that in the puft critter tutorial bite.
Finally the critter tutorial, i was waiting for this vídeo for too long, real thanks fungus you work is incredible
Should this tutorial be called ranching?, It has a foucus in the ranching aspect off critter care than the critter in question
Thanks for watching and the kind words! I even updated the name to include ranching at your suggestion.
Thank you and your voice is very pedagogical.
I have now watched many of your videos - just wanted to say thanks for making them. :)
Another great tutorial, looking forward to the critter series!
Thank you for the concise and informative tut. Much appreciated!
Love that joke about the stable size! And amazing tutorials! I'm looking forward to more content! Subscribing!
wake up new tutorial bite just dropped
love this shit! keep it up, man!
To think I view this video series in such high regard, I save them for later. Relishing a tutorial video for dining or a comfortable spot? Dissapointment in myself or a major applaud for you.
This is a smart way to extend your channel
Thanks, although I didn't really have in mind that going through the critters (and then plants) was really an extension but should be part of key tutorials. It's just that you can't do all the critters justice in one video without making it super long. They really do vary a lot when you think about it!
@@GCFungus Which is still the best way to deal with it. Too many videos out there for ONI that are 30+ minute of some guy rambling on without getting to the point when they are suppose to be a tutorial
Loved this video! Of course all the others too lol. But it's good to know how to better optimize the stables with automation :P
The hatch may be the most perfect creature that ever existed. They're cute, they eat rocks and poop out coal, and are delicious. They're really the cow of the ONI universe. (Just never ever, and I repeat ever, watch them lay an egg.)
I do like hatches, but they aren't my favourite as I find their sustainability to be much worse than the slickster. IMO the slickster is like the better hatch and lets me play with oil!
@@GCFungus same, i always end up storing all my oil for the sour gas boiler and getting my petroleum from the slicksters
Need to make a few more vids to add the new creatures :) please
Hello , ty for ur guides, can I keep a cuddle pip in the incubator room? or is that gonna mess the automation up for lullabies? like for example cuddle pip setting off the automation without any dupes nearby to lullaby, or to turn off the incubator without the egg getting lullabied. (also cuddle pips are heavier then dupes which is kind of bad for automation with weight)
another question I have is about the timers, isnt there 600 seconds in a cycle? and we have 615 seconds on our automation, so eventually we are gonna miss cycles in the long run right?
sry kind of new to the game, and I am not sure about these.
Yes the cuddle pips to walk on the weight plates, so as far as I'm aware you have to use the timer sensors. For your second question, there is indeed 600s in a cycle, but the lullabied buff duration lasts for the 600s. That's why the timer waits for 600s and is not cycle based. Yes it will move in relation to the cycle (you probably want an uptime of more like 60-90s depending on how big your base is), but this is the most efficient way.
I have holidays next week, thinking to make a planetoid a zoo with all criters, I will probably pick the moosy gas asteroid as is a barrant wasteland.
If doing domestic that would be really tricky, as there's not a lot of space or resources out there...
Could you suggest where to find room requirements for each critter ?
I'm not sure what you specifically mean by room requirements, but if you mean the amount of space each critter requires (and therefore the maximum you can fit in a 96 tile ranch), then I presented the numbers here as the stable limit, and it is also available on the wiki. If you mean more detail about what is needed to ranch each critter, then that is what I am covering in the individual Critter Tutorial Bites.
@@GCFungus Got it, thank you! Your tutorials are truly unique.
DUDE THANK YOU
This is only somewhat related, but do you feel this is any value is stating that the true hard mode achievement of ONI, beyond the settings, is a temporal run without Ranching critters?
I say this only because I feel ever since its inception, and the release of the critter sensor, that ranching totally eclipsed farming for everything, really.
I'm not sure I entirely agree, I think farming is still equally as viable as ranching in terms of quantity produced. Even simply using bristle blossoms makes easily sustainable food, and wild planting is always a good option. Critter meat certainly has a lot of advantages too though.
If BBQ wasn’t so high of a morale food, I think it would bother me much less. Dealing with quantity problems is hardly fun, but quality / complexity is the soul of the game and BBQ is way too easy.
@@Waggabagaboo BBq is the same quality as Berry sludge (that doesn't spoil and doesn't require a skill) and grub preserve (Spaced out) and one less than mushroom wrap and stuffed berry, it's not that big of a deal
The smooth hatch looks like a tick
Is there a way to increase their metabolism? From the base 100%?
No, you'll just have to ranch more if you want them to eat more!
@@GCFungus thank you.
There's one criter stat that's been neglected quite a bit. The age of a wild criter at which it lays an egg. Would you include that info in specific criter videos?
I hadn't thought to because generally it's just not very important. Most critters are best ranched domestically, and if you are using wild critters then their egg production rate is generally unimportant. The only real exception I can think of is pokeshells which are difficult to feed domestically. Did you have something specific in mind that you wanted the info for? The information is available on the wiki too.
@@GCFungus I extensively use various wild criters for many roles, and each has it's own small benefits.
• Main one is: if kept for passive refinement without care, they are little bit more efficient. Compared to 20% of glum tamed ones, wild criters have 25% metabolism.
Examples: sage hatches trapped around the compost pile; slicksters at the bottom of a pit without constant source of CO2 (just as cleaning agents); or smog slugs as free pumps in a room adjacent to a Saturn hydrogen farm.
• They don't starve if not fed and only given enough space. Examples: longhair slickster at the top of a closed CO2/chlorine chamber to remove tiny amounts of unwanted oxygen. If tame one is kept like that it can starve before any accidental oxygen for removal would appear.
In most cases I keep them in big enough room not to make them confined, but trapped with minimal space to move to save frames on pathfinding. For example: It's nice to keep that longhair one on a single tile with a deodorizer. That way any offgassing pO2 will be filtered and deleted as well, and they don't require to move to inhale (unlike pufts, or morbs to pass gas) thus removing its pathfinding completely.
So the overall rule is: wild criters reproduce around 2/3 of their lifespan, but it's actually quite unique for each. It is spot on 100/150 for grubgrubs for example, but it's 20/25 for shine bugs, and 65/100 for hatches, so if you're trying to micro relocation or ~manual evolution~ just before or after the egg is laid, then this number matters. Example: if the room is not big enough, keeping criters with their eggs (after they reproduced) can halt other criters reproduction to the point when you're "naturally" diminishing the population with time. In this case, finding ones that laid an egg and removing them keeps the population "under"-crowdedat all time. ;)
...aaaalso I'm a sucker for keeping the world as wild as I can and i enjoy micro dupes and criters as much as automating stuff. :P
So IDK, maybe it's just my silly playstyle, but I use that info quite often -and since there's no such info on wiki- [EDIT. the info is there. i'm just blind], I was wondering if you'd include that information in your tutorials (which are the best out there imho btw
For the eggs, isn’t there possibly a better way with automation to ensure that the number of eggs in the stable remains just high enough to not cramp them?
You can do a system that only removes eggs when the total count is above 8 (using a critter sensor), but it can be difficult to not sweep them all out in one go, or to have eggs constantly looping on a conveyor rail. My current position, though, is that there is no benefit to leaving the eggs in the ranches. Removing them quickly always guarantees the ranches are running at maximum production and having the eggs inside has no benefit. As long as you have the incubators then the ranches will always be filled when a critter is available, and you don't even need to power them to get that benefit. I suppose the cost at that point would be the refined metal, which isn't too hard to get in large amounts from the mid game.
Just curious, but will you be doing a video on updated Geotuner builds? I'm definitely struggling to make one with only 5 Geotuners. They're barely hot enough for steam turbines and cooling these rooms seems really difficult
I didn't plan to - to be honest with the nerf I really don't think they're that strong or interesting. Which geyser are you using it on?
@@GCFungus Just varying water geysers since Water Geysers are the key to life. The more water the more you can expand.
@@fooltheroyal8691 For those it should be fairly straightforward I believe. The hot water geysers will output at 195 degrees with 5 geotuners, so simply put steam turbines on and collect the water out. For the cool vents, they will now produce at 90 degrees so can simply be pumped out. The polluted water seems the most tricky as it would make 130 degree water, but with some geotuner inefficiency it may be difficult to keep high enough - in which case you'll have to treat like a cool steam vent (the easiest way is generally to cool these). In all cases you'll need an aquetuner cooling loop for the steam turbine, but that's fairly standard.
@@GCFungus Alright, I'll try testing some steam turbine builds. ^^
i cant wait to see pacu farming. In every playthrough i have never farmed pacus, i just let them die naturally. But i can see for certain start biomes like swamp and certain efficient ways to get isoresin i would need to learn how to do this.
it's super easy, you make a box of mesh tiles so they don't swim away from the feeder with enough space for a feeder, a fish release and maybe a shipping bin and a auto sweeper to take the eggs away automatically, then you can either starvation ranch them forever for a whole lot of pacu fillet (and lag), put the eggs next to boiling petroleum so they flop towards it and die or put them in a storage box in boiling petroleum so they break, become raw egg and instantly become omellete
CRITTAAHH!
4:30 💀
4:30 bruh
4:34
And I was told that size doesn't matter..
Well it's how you use it too...
I comment to help statistics
Size matter, I see what you did there lol
"Baby overflow"
How to kill creature automatically?
I think you missed the search box
xd
Do people really need tutorials for this game?... I mean I can make a BUNCH lol
By far the most common way is drowning, which I will explain for relevant critters. The general idea is to raise the water level when critters are detected (using airlocks), and then dropping it once they are dead. Many of the critters though might also be useful if left alive.
"they 'evolve' into meat"
nooooo..
I'm afraid so...
"Like many things in life, does definitely matter" xkljcvzxclkvbcxb
This comment contains nine words consisting of at least three symbols.