if you ever have the flow sensor damaged, that will be because is next to a 90, it needs to be at least 8 to 12 inches of straight pipe before the salt cell.
Its a mechanical timer which most pool pumps came with before smart pumps with built in timers were available. So my pump runs on its internal timer and the mechanical timer switches the IntelliChlor on and off.
Thanks for follow up, I have a new Pentair pump but mech timer still sends power to run it at night, so would I need to program pump to come on bypassing mech timer??
Remove the Phillips head screw and remove the cover to the power supply box. Separate and cap off the power wires with wire nuts. Now, no power to the power box when the cell isn’t in use. Since the power box is almost as much as the cell, might as well save it as much as possible.
When the water temperature gets down in the 50s (don't know exact temp) the generator will not generate chlorine. At this point you can just shut off the unit. As you saw in the video, this is where I remove the IntelliChlor and put the spacer in and also put a floater in the pool with a tab. Thanks for watching.
I enjoyed the video, well done and good points. However what has me surfing the net for tips is that we're in Maryland and we close our pool every year. That means the Inteli Pump, Intellichlor and whatever else that might be fragile in the winter cold, gets disassembled and stored inside... in the house vs. the garage. That said, our Intellichlor units are having a lifespan of only 2 seasons each... that = 5 months per season = 10 month lifespan = $$$$ and hardly worth the trouble... at that price anyway... they're $600 or so a pop never mind the inconvenience. There are newer chemicals in the marketplace which look to be much cheaper and less hassle on a yearly basis. Our pump runs nonstop... speeds may vary but it never stops. Wife's undergrad was in Chemistry (4.0) so we've a pretty good handle on the chemistry.
It could do with the settings, I run at 20% for my 25,000 gallon pool for about 12 hours per day. If you run the unit longer or at a higher percentage it will reduce the life span. Thanks for watching and good luck.
@@LandingZoneHome Thanks for the reply... we typically run ours around 20% and it's an inground 20 x 45 heated concrete pool = about 40,000 gallons? Following my post here I chanced into another "ask the pool guy" and he had any interesting revelation even the folks at Pentair hadn't offered.... to see how much life you have left in your chlorinator press the "more" button and hold for 3 seconds... and voila, whatever lights up is what you have left... or in our case... nothing! He also calculates a season so, if you're on a 3 month program you'll get roughly 5 years; 6 months (as we are) about 2.5 yrs... spot on! Well that's right pricey! Here's the link, enjoy: askthepoolguy.com/when-a-salt-cell-lifetime-expires/
Are those titanium bolts or something? Why can’t we just pick them up from the hardware store for $5-10. Worst comes to worst you need to weld a large top cap to a hex bolt. Should last a lifetime. They are using dissimilar metals which is why it is rusting. It should all be stainless.
if you ever have the flow sensor damaged, that will be because is next to a 90, it needs to be at least 8 to 12 inches of straight pipe before the salt cell.
Good tip, thank for watching.
Thanks for your video. Reading the IC 40 manual it requires at least 12” of straight pipe on the input side.
Appreciate the info and thanks for watching.
its true.. the way it is, is not good for flow sensor..
Pool store often have old Intellichlors they will give you to use as a spacer. That’s what I use.
That works, thanks for sharing.
Great tips thanks👍
Thanks for watching.
Why not just turn off power to the intellichlor but let the pump run during the cold winter months?
The plates inside the Intellichlor will continue to collect minerals from the passing water.
How do you keep the timer from sending power to generator?
Its a mechanical timer which most pool pumps came with before smart pumps with built in timers were available. So my pump runs on its internal timer and the mechanical timer switches the IntelliChlor on and off.
Thanks for follow up, I have a new Pentair pump but mech timer still sends power to run it at night, so would I need to program pump to come on bypassing mech timer??
@@blacktalon1597 Does the timer have the removable On and Off tabs? You may want to call Pentair customer service.
Remove the Phillips head screw and remove the cover to the power supply box. Separate and cap off the power wires with wire nuts. Now, no power to the power box when the cell isn’t in use. Since the power box is almost as much as the cell, might as well save it as much as possible.
What do you do when the salt generator says "cold water cutoff"? I've been using liquid chlorine.
When the water temperature gets down in the 50s (don't know exact temp) the generator will not generate chlorine. At this point you can just shut off the unit. As you saw in the video, this is where I remove the IntelliChlor and put the spacer in and also put a floater in the pool with a tab. Thanks for watching.
@@LandingZoneHome thank you sir!
I enjoyed the video, well done and good points. However what has me surfing the net for tips is that we're in Maryland and we close our pool every year. That means the Inteli Pump, Intellichlor and whatever else that might be fragile in the winter cold, gets disassembled and stored inside... in the house vs. the garage. That said, our Intellichlor units are having a lifespan of only 2 seasons each... that = 5 months per season = 10 month lifespan = $$$$ and hardly worth the trouble... at that price anyway... they're $600 or so a pop never mind the inconvenience. There are newer chemicals in the marketplace which look to be much cheaper and less hassle on a yearly basis. Our pump runs nonstop... speeds may vary but it never stops. Wife's undergrad was in Chemistry (4.0) so we've a pretty good handle on the chemistry.
It could do with the settings, I run at 20% for my 25,000 gallon pool for about 12 hours per day. If you run the unit longer or at a higher percentage it will reduce the life span. Thanks for watching and good luck.
@@LandingZoneHome Thanks for the reply... we typically run ours around 20% and it's an inground 20 x 45 heated concrete pool = about 40,000 gallons? Following my post here I chanced into another "ask the pool guy" and he had any interesting revelation even the folks at Pentair hadn't offered.... to see how much life you have left in your chlorinator press the "more" button and hold for 3 seconds... and voila, whatever lights up is what you have left... or in our case... nothing! He also calculates a season so, if you're on a 3 month program you'll get roughly 5 years; 6 months (as we are) about 2.5 yrs... spot on! Well that's right pricey! Here's the link, enjoy:
askthepoolguy.com/when-a-salt-cell-lifetime-expires/
Great ideas. Thank you for sharing
Shawn, thanks for watching.
What do you use to make that spacer for winter use?
I purchased it from Amazon, here is the link: Intellchlor (Pentair) Bypass Cell Spacer:► amzn.to/3fA4cSo
No need for a spacer if the pool is shut down. We cap off the pipes so no critters make a home and take the unit inside.
You have that installed completed wrong. You’re supposed to have it on a straight run of at least 8” before and after.
Just when I thought I could trust the professional install you tell me it is wrong. Way to late now to change but it works great. Thanks for the info.
Are those titanium bolts or something? Why can’t we just pick them up from the hardware store for $5-10. Worst comes to worst you need to weld a large top cap to a hex bolt. Should last a lifetime. They are using dissimilar metals which is why it is rusting. It should all be stainless.
The bolts are stainless and the documentation stated why they use the brass bushing but I can't remember. Thanks for watching.