@FixItWithJake THANK YOU!!! Just an FYI, because your video was the best of sooooo many I viewed on the IC40 sensor issues, errors and replacement, I mentioned you in my Amazon review for the Optimum flow sensor I bought. Long story short: Never owned a pool before. In December 2022, my wife and I purchased a home in SC with a beautiful pool that was built in 2019. When we had the pool inspected, the Low Salt indicator was on and the chlorine levels were low. We were told that is normal when the air temps are below 52 degrees. Fast forward, air temps are in the 80s now, pool temp is 75. Low salt light still on, control panel shows 2050 ppm, dipstick shows 2800 and pool store test shows 2900 ppm salt, but 0 total and free chlorine. We’ve had a company servicing our pool since early March. They came out and did a $190 diagnostic visit because their tech said the power to the IC 40 was off. We never saw it off. Always on and always with the Low Salt light on. Their tech said the cell was shot. $1,500 to replace it and and other $190 to install. I cleaned the unit and it really wasn’t too bad. I thought I was doing good by ordering a new IC 40 on Amazon for $1050 and was going to install it myself. I patted myself on the back for saving about $700. Then I stumbled onto this video of yours. Having 30 days to return the new cell after it arrived, I opted to order a new $39 sensor form Amazon as well and give that a try. Worst case scenario in my opinion, if the sensor did t work, I only saved $670 then. Lol! We’ll the sensor arrived yesterday. Thankfully because of your video, I knew I could replace the sensor with the IC40 still attached to the pool plumbing. That was such a help!! Thank you for showing that! Also l, thanks for the wiring diagram and tutorial. My old sensor had three wires and the new one had four. Thanks to you, I knew which ones went where. In less than 10 minutes the old was removed, the new was installed and it was powered back up. After about 10 minutes of alternating high and low salt lights, it calibrated itself. For the first time since buying this house, I see a green Good Salt light. Salt level on the panel is 3050 ppm and by dip stick 2900. I already set up the return of the unopened new IC40, left a review for the sensor and tagged you in the review. Awesome job brother, thank you for saving me about $1,500 with this great video. PS - I fired the pool service company, will be disputing the charges for their ridiculous diagnostic fee by which they found the cell shot. Also, after I replaced the sensor, I checked cell life and have 40% remaining! Thank you again.
Great job GK. This comment made my day! I'm so glad you were able to restore your cell especially since it still has 40% life left! Thanks for the shout out on Amazon! Below 57F water temp can expect a cold water or low salt light. Above that, it should be going away. In the winter you will want to turn it off and use normal chlorine. Try to get your salt levels up to 3600-4000ppm. Do it slowly. One day at a time and let each bag dissolve so you don't go over 4000ppm. I let me robot drive around each time and mix it all up. I just had to get mine back up after all the rain this winter dropped it down to 1500ppm. It took me a week to slowly get it up and I used this test kit over and over. Works so well: amzn.to/3ApHFnJ
This video was extremely helpful. Couldn’t get anyone out to help me fix this problem, and by watching this video I was able to do it myself in 30 minutes for less than $50. Incredibly grateful!
If the cell has 3 wires and new switch has 4, red-red / white-white / black on the cell and blue and green on the new switch. Do you connect black-blue and leave green by itself?
Every sensor that I’ve purchased has come with a small paper instruction manual that tells you how to wire it. It explains three versus four wires and the colors. I’m not sure all sensors have the same color wire so I would refer to the small instruction manual that came with your sensor instead.
Awesome tutorial video. I have that problem and will start working on it right now. The pool service people want $1100.00 just to replace my Intellichlor IC 40!
Thanks for the video! If the red lights are only present during the diagnostic test and not during normal operating conditions, is the flow still bad? Also, would a bad flow switch cause the system not to produce chlorine? Thanks!
So right after you turn on your pump the salt, so will turn on and go in the diagnostic mode. That runs for about five minutes. After that time all the red light should go out and if it becomes normal green lights, then you have no issues. Yes if the flow switch is bad, it can stop your chlorine production. Either doesn’t know that there’s proper water flow so will not produce chlorine. Or if your salt level is too high or too low it’ll also prevent it from producing chlorine. And the flow switch is a bit temperamental. So always do a really good salt level test not using the salt cell sensor. Just use a basic Taylor test kit.
Great video. My chlorinator- 60 is producing salt, but it is not ready on my easy touch system. I have a Pentair. Do you still think it might be my flow switch?
The little card mounted on the back wall of your AC touch. System is called a surge card and takes 24 V AC from the saltwater transformer and converts it to 35 V DC that powers assault Cell. If your circuit breaker pops with the salt cell disconnected, that is a good indication that the surge card is bad. To confirm that unplug the two small red wires marked as AC from the surge card and see if the breaker no longer pops.
@@fixitwithjake 10amp fuse pops only when the salt cell is connected. Had a case with Pentair and nothing they can do. Everything I’ve been reading leads to salt cell needs replacing.
Hi and thanks for your video! I have the IC40 chlorinator and salt level lights (good and low) are BOTH flashing and the FLOW red light is on. The flow is fine... i cleaned it out with MA and its still lit up like a Christmas tree with these lights flashing that shouldnt be. Now i do have to say the water temp is at about 55degrees. I just dont remember this being such an issue in years passed. Is all this due to water temp? My salt level is at 3400 so that checks out too. You think this could all be the cell? Its about 7 yrs old.
It is because the water temp is outside the operating range for the cell. Also your cell is probably near the end of its life after that many years. Double check that you don’t have it installed backwards. It’s easy to mix that up. There’s an arrow showing the direction of water flow.
@@fixitwithjake Yes its definitely installed with the flow going correct direction. I have solar cover on so lets see if that helps. Otherwise you think a cell replacement is in order?
@creative5435 Pentair’s cell is rated at 10,000 hrs. Figure out hike many hours a day your pump runs and see how many days/years it’s been used. Leaving it installed and on in the winter when the water is cold will reduce its life. I take mine inside in the winter and replace it with a plug until the water gets back to the operating range for spring to fall. Because my pool is open here around and the pump is running every single day. Get the water temperature up to the required range and try it for a few few days and see if that fixes things. If that doesn’t you could replace the flow switch that would be the next step just like the video says. And if that doesn’t fix it, they need a new Cell. Don’t mess with the aftermarket ones. There’s none that work well with Pantera they only save you two to $300 and have almost no warranty or tech support.
I have a flashing green for the Cell indicator which says "Inspect cell" I acid cleaned the blades as I always done, but still is flashing only 3yrs. old.
thanks for this video, have ordered a sensor for 42$ on amazon using your link. Our IC 40 must be at least 5 yrs old but when we test how many hrs of use it has had (by holding down the "more" button for 3 seconds and watching the green lights) it only reads 20% (see manual), showing lots of potential life left in it. I was wondering what app you are using on your phone at the end of the video?
Let’s hope a new sensor fixes it! It’s def worth the try. The app I am using is the Pentair Screen logic Wi-Fi system. Control your pool from your phone. I just made an install video on it, on my other TH-cam channel here: th-cam.com/video/c806qqqEoKI/w-d-xo.html
@@fixitwithjake thanks Jake, watched the video, the pentair control center antenna looks like the one I already have to go with the remote control unit, are they the same?
The salt cell should not be ON if the pump is off. It should be wired in such a way that the pump timer shuts off and so does the salt cell power. Go to page 35 and street troubleshooting the lights www.pentair.com/content/dam/extranet/nam/product-related/product-manuals/pool-and-spa-equipment/intellichlor/IntelliChlor_Owners_Manual_Version_3_units_after_Nov_2011_English.pdf
First off, good job getting it replaced. If it’s flashing red/green that is the start up process. You need to let it do that for aprox 5 mins. If the red and green stops and you end up with a red flow light it could mean a number of things. It could mean that you don’t have your valves open properly, poor pump pressure, a dirty or clogged filter system, or an obstruction inside the salt cell. Go to page 28 to read more about these www.pentair.com/content/dam/extranet/nam/product-related/product-manuals/pool-and-spa-equipment/intellichlor/IntelliChlor_Owners_Manual_Version_3_units_after_Nov_2011_English.pdf
I did everything you said here but it still says no flow. I backflowed it, cleaned it everything. I hate the system. Seriously I’m considering going back to Chlorine. It’s way too sensitive
@@fixitwithjake Yeah, I just replaced the new flow sensor, nothing worked. Prior to that I had back flowed the pool quite well as well as cleaned the salt cell correctly with muriatic acid. The unit is four years old and it has about 40% life left. I just don’t believe in the system. It’s so finicky. It has been reading high salt levels even with this new sensor but when I run an independent test the salt limits are well within limits.
@@fixitwithjake Yes, brand new sensor this afternoon. I took the water flow all the way up to 3500 RPM. Still nothing. I bought a cheaper replacement for the IC40 at Leslie’s. It’s called the splash. It plugs into the existing Intellichlor Control box and with a discount I got it for $540 which is half the price of the original. And then even when the original a lot of these online businesses are saying it is back ordered and could be months. I was never really impressed with the original OEM system. Even if I get a few years out of it it’s worthwhile experiment
Thanks for sharing this intel. At first I thought I’d need a replacement too and was not happy about the out of stock and inflated prices. Happy to hear there are other options for the day we need to replace ours. Let us know how yours holds up! Thanks again !
@@fixitwithjake so far so good. I installed it in about five minutes. It really does hook right up in terms of dimensions as well as the connector for the data. You can run the RPM on this generic one significantly lower than the intellichlor and still have it generate… i’m probably saving 300 W. It is relatively basic but that’s actually a good thing. It has a pretty convenient display that tells you what percentage of chlorine you’re making, if it’s trying to figure out flow, etc. It’s a digital display that is backlit. So far so good, definitely generating chlorine based on my test strips. I will check in in about a year to let you guys know how it goes but again, if I can get three or four years out of this, I’m never going back
Great video, thanks. I cleaned my IC40 yesterday with a 1:4 muriatic acid/water mix and today I’m getting a flashing green (high salt) light on the salt level part of the screen. Last week the pool store (Leslie’s) showed my salt to be 3200 ppm. I also backwashed a few days ago, so if anything, it should be low. Water doesn’t taste salty either. Pool store said I should reset it. I can’t find instructions on that. I pressed the “more” button but it didn’t change anything after going through its cycle. The less or more buttons don’t seem to work but the app lets me change the sanitizer level which has been at 80%. Any thoughts? Thanks
Hi there. The older model IC40s have an option to recalibrate them in the manual. The newer ones like mine don’t allow for that. I called Pentair to ask them how to recalibrate. They were confused and didn’t help. Second I called I got a better tech who said I can’t recalibrate. After that I decided to replace the flow sensor bc that is also the salinity sensor. That fixed the salt levels issue. Soooo, see if you can recalibrate, if u can’t, swap out the cheap flow/salt sensor and that should help.
@@fixitwithjake Thanks so much. I was on the phone with Pentair for 35 minutes today and the guy tried to do all kinds of diagnostics and in the end told me to replace the flow sensor/switch. $50. Hopefully it’ll fix it. Thanks again
Chris, are any of the lights lighting up when the pump turns on? Or it’s all dark? A bunch of lights should be flashing when it first turns on. If not lights at all besides the flow light, start checking the wire connection from the salt cell to the control box or power supply. Thick black cord that screws into place. And check that no circuit breakers are tripped.
@fixitwithjake Thx for the reply. Yes, when I power on the unit all the light come on at least once. Even if the flow light blinks briefly, the low and high salt blink back and forth until it levels out like normal. But the flow light doesn't stay lite not even continuously red or green. Once the cell levels out the red low salt light is on and three lights at the sanitizer output are green. I can decrease output but it won't increase above the third light. I thought changing the flow sensor would at least get the flow indicator to come on, but no luck.
Because it is still reading as low salt it may not allow your salt cell to turn on and thus the green flow sensor light as well. But to be honest, I’m just guessing here on the logic. Is it possible that you installed either your flow sensor backwards, or the entire salt cell backwards in the wrong direction? Because that is a common error and if that is the case, then the flow sensor, it has water, pushing it into the closed position at all times. Have you had your salt levels checked with a tailor test kit or a Leslie pool store? That is also super important that you get an accurate measurement and do not rely on the salt cell for your salinity measurement.
I did some more research on this one today and I cannot come up with a relevant answer. I would call Pentair technical support on the phone and let them know about the flow light not illuminating and see what they have to say? Have you verified that the wire connections are all working well on your new flow sensor? I would definitely start there.
That’s one diagram from one manufacture. There’s several manufactures for these flow switch it so it’s possible that you have a different wiring set up. Every flow switch off used comes with a small instruction manual that tells you what color goes to what wire. So I would refer to the little paper manual that came with your switch…..
Did you install the salt cell back in the proper flow direction? Or is the flow switch in the proper direction? If either one is installed backwards, the water is just gonna push on the switch and not allow it to work and trigger a flow light.
@FixItWithJake THANK YOU!!! Just an FYI, because your video was the best of sooooo many I viewed on the IC40 sensor issues, errors and replacement, I mentioned you in my Amazon review for the Optimum flow sensor I bought.
Long story short: Never owned a pool before. In December 2022, my wife and I purchased a home in SC with a beautiful pool that was built in 2019. When we had the pool inspected, the Low Salt indicator was on and the chlorine levels were low. We were told that is normal when the air temps are below 52 degrees. Fast forward, air temps are in the 80s now, pool temp is 75. Low salt light still on, control panel shows 2050 ppm, dipstick shows 2800 and pool store test shows 2900 ppm salt, but 0 total and free chlorine.
We’ve had a company servicing our pool since early March. They came out and did a $190 diagnostic visit because their tech said the power to the IC 40 was off. We never saw it off. Always on and always with the Low Salt light on.
Their tech said the cell was shot. $1,500 to replace it and and other $190 to install.
I cleaned the unit and it really wasn’t too bad. I thought I was doing good by ordering a new IC 40 on Amazon for $1050 and was going to install it myself. I patted myself on the back for saving about $700.
Then I stumbled onto this video of yours. Having 30 days to return the new cell after it arrived, I opted to order a new $39 sensor form Amazon as well and give that a try. Worst case scenario in my opinion, if the sensor did t work, I only saved $670 then. Lol! We’ll the sensor arrived yesterday. Thankfully because of your video, I knew I could replace the sensor with the IC40 still attached to the pool plumbing. That was such a help!! Thank you for showing that! Also l, thanks for the wiring diagram and tutorial. My old sensor had three wires and the new one had four. Thanks to you, I knew which ones went where. In less than 10 minutes the old was removed, the new was installed and it was powered back up. After about 10 minutes of alternating high and low salt lights, it calibrated itself. For the first time since buying this house, I see a green Good Salt light. Salt level on the panel is 3050 ppm and by dip stick 2900. I already set up the return of the unopened new IC40, left a review for the sensor and tagged you in the review.
Awesome job brother, thank you for saving me about $1,500 with this great video.
PS - I fired the pool service company, will be disputing the charges for their ridiculous diagnostic fee by which they found the cell shot. Also, after I replaced the sensor, I checked cell life and have 40% remaining!
Thank you again.
Great job GK. This comment made my day! I'm so glad you were able to restore your cell especially since it still has 40% life left! Thanks for the shout out on Amazon! Below 57F water temp can expect a cold water or low salt light. Above that, it should be going away. In the winter you will want to turn it off and use normal chlorine. Try to get your salt levels up to 3600-4000ppm. Do it slowly. One day at a time and let each bag dissolve so you don't go over 4000ppm. I let me robot drive around each time and mix it all up. I just had to get mine back up after all the rain this winter dropped it down to 1500ppm. It took me a week to slowly get it up and I used this test kit over and over. Works so well: amzn.to/3ApHFnJ
This video was extremely helpful. Couldn’t get anyone out to help me fix this problem, and by watching this video I was able to do it myself in 30 minutes for less than $50. Incredibly grateful!
Wow, nice job! You definitely have the DIYer spirit! Glad this was helpful!
If the cell has 3 wires and new switch has 4, red-red / white-white / black on the cell and blue and green on the new switch. Do you connect black-blue and leave green by itself?
Every sensor that I’ve purchased has come with a small paper instruction manual that tells you how to wire it. It explains three versus four wires and the colors. I’m not sure all sensors have the same color wire so I would refer to the small instruction manual that came with your sensor instead.
Awesome tutorial video. I have that problem and will start working on it right now. The pool service people want $1100.00 just to replace my Intellichlor IC 40!
Thank you!!! Success on my end. Really appreciate you taking the time to share this video! Let many blessings will fill your life with joy!
I reallly hope this will do. Thanks so much for this video. Will buy a flow switch today 👍
Thanks for the video! If the red lights are only present during the diagnostic test and not during normal operating conditions, is the flow still bad? Also, would a bad flow switch cause the system not to produce chlorine? Thanks!
So right after you turn on your pump the salt, so will turn on and go in the diagnostic mode. That runs for about five minutes. After that time all the red light should go out and if it becomes normal green lights, then you have no issues. Yes if the flow switch is bad, it can stop your chlorine production. Either doesn’t know that there’s proper water flow so will not produce chlorine. Or if your salt level is too high or too low it’ll also prevent it from producing chlorine. And the flow switch is a bit temperamental. So always do a really good salt level test not using the salt cell sensor. Just use a basic Taylor test kit.
Great video. My chlorinator- 60 is producing salt, but it is not ready on my easy touch system. I have a Pentair. Do you still think it might be my flow switch?
Have you had any issues with cell popping the 10amp fuse? Could flow switch cause it or cell electronics shot? Cell is just over 2 years old.
The little card mounted on the back wall of your AC touch. System is called a surge card and takes 24 V AC from the saltwater transformer and converts it to 35 V DC that powers assault Cell. If your circuit breaker pops with the salt cell disconnected, that is a good indication that the surge card is bad. To confirm that unplug the two small red wires marked as AC from the surge card and see if the breaker no longer pops.
@@fixitwithjake 10amp fuse pops only when the salt cell is connected. Had a case with Pentair and nothing they can do. Everything I’ve been reading leads to salt cell needs replacing.
Hi and thanks for your video! I have the IC40 chlorinator and salt level lights (good and low) are BOTH flashing and the FLOW red light is on. The flow is fine... i cleaned it out with MA and its still lit up like a Christmas tree with these lights flashing that shouldnt be. Now i do have to say the water temp is at about 55degrees. I just dont remember this being such an issue in years passed. Is all this due to water temp? My salt level is at 3400 so that checks out too. You think this could all be the cell? Its about 7 yrs old.
It is because the water temp is outside the operating range for the cell. Also your cell is probably near the end of its life after that many years. Double check that you don’t have it installed backwards. It’s easy to mix that up. There’s an arrow showing the direction of water flow.
@@fixitwithjake Yes its definitely installed with the flow going correct direction. I have solar cover on so lets see if that helps. Otherwise you think a cell replacement is in order?
@creative5435 Pentair’s cell is rated at 10,000 hrs. Figure out hike many hours a day your pump runs and see how many days/years it’s been used. Leaving it installed and on in the winter when the water is cold will reduce its life. I take mine inside in the winter and replace it with a plug until the water gets back to the operating range for spring to fall. Because my pool is open here around and the pump is running every single day. Get the water temperature up to the required range and try it for a few few days and see if that fixes things. If that doesn’t you could replace the flow switch that would be the next step just like the video says. And if that doesn’t fix it, they need a new Cell. Don’t mess with the aftermarket ones. There’s none that work well with Pantera they only save you two to $300 and have almost no warranty or tech support.
I have a flashing green for the Cell indicator which says "Inspect cell" I acid cleaned the blades as I always done, but still is flashing only 3yrs. old.
thanks for this video, have ordered a sensor for 42$ on amazon using your link. Our IC 40 must be at least 5 yrs old but when we test how many hrs of use it has had (by holding down the "more" button for 3 seconds and watching the green lights) it only reads 20% (see manual), showing lots of potential life left in it. I was wondering what app you are using on your phone at the end of the video?
Let’s hope a new sensor fixes it! It’s def worth the try. The app I am using is the Pentair Screen logic Wi-Fi system. Control your pool from your phone. I just made an install video on it, on my other TH-cam channel here: th-cam.com/video/c806qqqEoKI/w-d-xo.html
@@fixitwithjake thanks Jake, watched the video, the pentair control center antenna looks like the one I already have to go with the remote control unit, are they the same?
I have an IC40. My flow light is green all the time, even when I turn the pump off. It has a new flow switch. What can it be?
The salt cell should not be ON if the pump is off. It should be wired in such a way that the pump timer shuts off and so does the salt cell power. Go to page 35 and street troubleshooting the lights www.pentair.com/content/dam/extranet/nam/product-related/product-manuals/pool-and-spa-equipment/intellichlor/IntelliChlor_Owners_Manual_Version_3_units_after_Nov_2011_English.pdf
I replaced mine and it’s still flashing red to green on the salt reading and the flow light stays on red? Any recs?
First off, good job getting it replaced. If it’s flashing red/green that is the start up process. You need to let it do that for aprox 5 mins. If the red and green stops and you end up with a red flow light it could mean a number of things. It could mean that you don’t have your valves open properly, poor pump pressure, a dirty or clogged filter system, or an obstruction inside the salt cell. Go to page 28 to read more about these www.pentair.com/content/dam/extranet/nam/product-related/product-manuals/pool-and-spa-equipment/intellichlor/IntelliChlor_Owners_Manual_Version_3_units_after_Nov_2011_English.pdf
I don't know where you're located but in Cali a flow switch is $185 cost plus tax
I just checked and they are still $46 for a quality aftermarket switch. The one I recommend is this one. It is what I use myself. amzn.to/3OviDd2
I did everything you said here but it still says no flow. I backflowed it, cleaned it everything. I hate the system. Seriously I’m considering going back to Chlorine. It’s way too sensitive
Is there a water flow issue that you can tell? Is the water flowing slow or fast? Did you try replacing the “flow sensor”
@@fixitwithjake Yeah, I just replaced the new flow sensor, nothing worked. Prior to that I had back flowed the pool quite well as well as cleaned the salt cell correctly with muriatic acid. The unit is four years old and it has about 40% life left. I just don’t believe in the system. It’s so finicky. It has been reading high salt levels even with this new sensor but when I run an independent test the salt limits are well within limits.
@@fixitwithjake Yes, brand new sensor this afternoon. I took the water flow all the way up to 3500 RPM. Still nothing. I bought a cheaper replacement for the IC40 at Leslie’s. It’s called the splash. It plugs into the existing Intellichlor Control box and with a discount I got it for $540 which is half the price of the original. And then even when the original a lot of these online businesses are saying it is back ordered and could be months. I was never really impressed with the original OEM system. Even if I get a few years out of it it’s worthwhile experiment
Thanks for sharing this intel. At first I thought I’d need a replacement too and was not happy about the out of stock and inflated prices. Happy to hear there are other options for the day we need to replace ours. Let us know how yours holds up! Thanks again !
@@fixitwithjake so far so good. I installed it in about five minutes. It really does hook right up in terms of dimensions as well as the connector for the data. You can run the RPM on this generic one significantly lower than the intellichlor and still have it generate… i’m probably saving 300 W. It is relatively basic but that’s actually a good thing. It has a pretty convenient display that tells you what percentage of chlorine you’re making, if it’s trying to figure out flow, etc. It’s a digital display that is backlit. So far so good, definitely generating chlorine based on my test strips. I will check in in about a year to let you guys know how it goes but again, if I can get three or four years out of this, I’m never going back
Great video, thanks. I cleaned my IC40 yesterday with a 1:4 muriatic acid/water mix and today I’m getting a flashing green (high salt) light on the salt level part of the screen. Last week the pool store (Leslie’s) showed my salt to be 3200 ppm. I also backwashed a few days ago, so if anything, it should be low. Water doesn’t taste salty either. Pool store said I should reset it. I can’t find instructions on that. I pressed the “more” button but it didn’t change anything after going through its cycle. The less or more buttons don’t seem to work but the app lets me change the sanitizer level which has been at 80%. Any thoughts? Thanks
Hi there. The older model IC40s have an option to recalibrate them in the manual. The newer ones like mine don’t allow for that. I called Pentair to ask them how to recalibrate. They were confused and didn’t help. Second I called I got a better tech who said I can’t recalibrate. After that I decided to replace the flow sensor bc that is also the salinity sensor. That fixed the salt levels issue. Soooo, see if you can recalibrate, if u can’t, swap out the cheap flow/salt sensor and that should help.
@@fixitwithjake Thanks so much. I was on the phone with Pentair for 35 minutes today and the guy tried to do all kinds of diagnostics and in the end told me to replace the flow sensor/switch. $50. Hopefully it’ll fix it. Thanks again
Welcome. Sure seems like the flow sensor fixes a lot of errors involving bad measurements and readings. One of the cheapest places to start too.
What if the flow light isnt lite at all? I tried replacing tbe sensor. Still no light lite on the flow
Chris, are any of the lights lighting up when the pump turns on? Or it’s all dark? A bunch of lights should be flashing when it first turns on. If not lights at all besides the flow light, start checking the wire connection from the salt cell to the control box or power supply. Thick black cord that screws into place. And check that no circuit breakers are tripped.
@fixitwithjake Thx for the reply. Yes, when I power on the unit all the light come on at least once. Even if the flow light blinks briefly, the low and high salt blink back and forth until it levels out like normal. But the flow light doesn't stay lite not even continuously red or green. Once the cell levels out the red low salt light is on and three lights at the sanitizer output are green. I can decrease output but it won't increase above the third light. I thought changing the flow sensor would at least get the flow indicator to come on, but no luck.
Because it is still reading as low salt it may not allow your salt cell to turn on and thus the green flow sensor light as well. But to be honest, I’m just guessing here on the logic. Is it possible that you installed either your flow sensor backwards, or the entire salt cell backwards in the wrong direction? Because that is a common error and if that is the case, then the flow sensor, it has water, pushing it into the closed position at all times. Have you had your salt levels checked with a tailor test kit or a Leslie pool store? That is also super important that you get an accurate measurement and do not rely on the salt cell for your salinity measurement.
I did some more research on this one today and I cannot come up with a relevant answer. I would call Pentair technical support on the phone and let them know about the flow light not illuminating and see what they have to say? Have you verified that the wire connections are all working well on your new flow sensor? I would definitely start there.
@fixitwithjake Thank you. I went ahead and spent the 1k on a new cell. Appreciate all the support.
Cell has red, white, black wires. Switch has red, clear, blue, green. Is it red-red, white-clear, black-blue, green alone?
Here is a photo for you: m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71phNasDhtL._AC_SL1500_.jpg
Thank you. I left green by itself and the cell still reports no flow. I’ll connect black-blue-green.
That’s one diagram from one manufacture. There’s several manufactures for these flow switch it so it’s possible that you have a different wiring set up. Every flow switch off used comes with a small instruction manual that tells you what color goes to what wire. So I would refer to the little paper manual that came with your switch…..
Yes the black-blue-green is correct. After instal, the flow light is still red…🤔
Did you install the salt cell back in the proper flow direction? Or is the flow switch in the proper direction? If either one is installed backwards, the water is just gonna push on the switch and not allow it to work and trigger a flow light.
My salt cell keeps flashing green and I have no idea what’s wrong with it. Help please
The top light that is labeled "GOOD" is flashing green?
@@fixitwithjake no, the Status
Cell is blinking
Thank you for this. This is a bad design overall. It’s really stupid the way that that sensor only last maybe two years. Very flimsy.
Sure seems like they could have more of a diagnostic light to let us know its the sensor going bad vs other elements.