Thanks for sharing your video Jim. Regarding the Master Cylinder bleeding procedure, one alternative that worked really well for me was to perform the bleed procedure while installed on the vehicle, which should ensure air has been purged from the master cylinder prior to reconnecting into the brake system and with minimal brake fluid spillage. Here is how I did it: Prior to proceeding, spray the master cylinder (MC) brake lines and booster nuts with a good lubricant and let it soak ( 1 to 5 minutes depending on how much rust is observed) 1. Place a catch rag under the MC and disconnect the two attached brake lines and remove the existing unit. You may also want to disconnect the MC booster hose, accelerator and cruise control cables (if equipped) from their hold down brackets 2. Install the new MC (one nut snug tight should be sufficient) with the brake lines still detached. If the new MC did not come with the rubber gasket, you may need to use a donor from the old one. 3. Add the bleeder kit per the instructions 4. Top off the brake fluid and pump the brake pedal SLOWLY until all the air bubbles disappear (typically between 15 to 30 pumps) 5. Loosen the MC nut(s) so that there is a little play and remove one of the bleeder hoses and begin threading one of the brake lines by hand (5 to 10 turns should be sufficient) 6. Repeat the same procedure for the last line 7. Tighten both MC mounting nuts to spec (132 inch/lbs) 8. Tighten the MC brakes lines snug tight and wipe down both lines with brake cleaner fluid and paper towel 9. Tighten each line another 1/4 to 1/2 turn or until the fluid no longer drips from the line 10. Ensure the brake reservoir is topped off and pump the brake pedal another 5 to 10 times 11. Recheck the lines for leakage and tighten in 1/4 inch increments until no further leakage is visible 12. Start the vehicle and ensure the pedal firmly stops somewhere between 1/4 and 1/2 to the floor 13. If more travel is observed, check for leaks at each wheel and bleed each wheel cylinder per the owner's manual
In navy basic training firefighting class they teach recruits to turn threaded fittings backwards until the threads are felt to align (there's a "click" feel) before threading inward to avoid cross threading - reason of course being if you foul up the threads & can't extinguish fire, where ya gonna go in the middle of the ocean? Virtually guarantees a crossthread-free life. Also saves a ton of time with stubborn won't-go-in hardline fittings. Best tip anyone ever taught me.
Thanks for taking the time to put this up here. Yours is one of rather few how-tos on this generation of Accord, and the only one I've found so far worth a damn. So, thanks again!
I was working on a 91 honda prelude and everything is the same except the brake lines are on the other side. thanks for a great video, the explanation at the beginning on how to tell if it is your master cylinder really came in handy for me as well. keep up the wonderful work!
Just wanted to thank you for the video it helped me alot when I installed my cylinder today unfortunately one of the brake lines got stripped and extended my change out another 45 mins. but all in all went well and now I GOT BREAKS YIPPEE LOL
tubejim101 Well, I did it exactly like you did it in the video and it worked perfect. Turned out to be not be that big of deal. However, when I went to bleed my brakes at each tire I discovered I had a broken lug on one tire and couldn't get it off, so it went unbled. I've got my brakes back, but they're super spongy. The tires won't lock up but will stop the car. So, here is my question...was only doing 3/4 of the bleeding a waste of time? Is it all 4 tires, or don't bother? Look forward to your thoughts and thanks a million for the video, like I said, it was awesome and saved my ass!
Exact same problem on our 1990 Honda Accord EX....fluid keeps dropping after refilling it and the pedal keeps getting spongier but ABSOLUTELY no leaks that are seen around the master cylinder, reservoir, tires, calipers, brake hoses, or brake lines. I even park the car over pieces of clean card board and will park over clean pavement in store's parking lots but NEVER see a drop of brake fluid dripping on them. I ended up saying the leak has to be between the brake's master cylinder and power booster whereby the fluid is leaking around the master cylinder's push rod and being pumped back into the power booster, and so now waiting for our local auto parts store to get the master cylinder ordered in so I can change it and see if that's definitely the problem. If not, where else would the brake fluid be going, right!
www.quora.com/How-do-you-find-a-brake-fluid-leak-or-bad-master-cylinder Neil Hamilton, Been a certified motor and diesel mechanic for the past 50 + years Answered Apr 10, 2017 If your brake fluid level keeps dropping and there are absolutley no visable signs of leakage any where , then rest assured the brake fluid is leaking past the brake plunger seal into the brake vacuum booster and is gradually being sucked into the air intake manifold and burnt in the cylinders . This happens at such a slow pace you will never see any smoke in the exhaust. Replace the brake master cylinder and bleed all 4 brake lines right back to the wheel cylinders to get rid of any trapped air bubbles . If you dont then the brake pedal will feel spungy .As a side benefit you will have fresh fluid and get rid of any build up of dirt accumulated in the system . Your brake system will work much better and give you more years of trouble free service.
@get-the-lead-out.4593 I have the same problem. I can't find the leak and I also took off the vacuum line to the brake booster, and I didn't see any leak whatsoever. I tried pushing the pedal down. But I'm not sure what I'm looking for. I mean yes, I can hold down the brake pedal for more than 15 seconds? I'm not understanding this test? I feel absolutely now difference in my breaking when I'm driving?
@6955beneign , shouldn't you be able to see the brake fluid if it is leaking in the brake booster? I mean I took my air hose off my brake booster and I didn't see any signs of any leakage? I'm having the same problem, I checked all 4 tires, wheel wells, and everything. I looked everywhere to see if there is a leak. When I drive, I constantly look to see if a leak occurs. How do we know 100% sure it's a leaky brake master cylinder? Before we just replace it? I felt no difference in my brake pedal whatsoever when I'm driving.
Question Can Master cylinder be going bad if I don’t have any break fluid from the bleeder screw coming out but I do in the front breaks bleeder screw.
thanks for that video... it empowered me to replace my own master cylinder in my 89 honda civic DX.. it has a similar type of assembly in a similar location.. And similarly, there was no gasket where the master meets the booster.. However, now that I replaced it I have a leak in that zone... should I just redo the install, clean it up and add a silicone gasket of some sort?
+k7michal Brakes are a serious safety issue. If it does not seem right, I would take it in and have someone look at it. There is a very good chance, that your Honda dealer would look at it for free if you did an oil change.
+tubejim101 thank you for the quick reply... luckily the leak is slow and I can always top it off. I went from having to pump my breaks to less pumping of the break and now topping it off...
Thanks well done video. & you're right, I'm a GM guy but always have to back check on my mom's car. Because Hondas are different" LOL this damn thing bleeds RR,Fl,LR,FR Bled it 3X before I leaned this. Any video on the struts?
1994 Honda Accord Wagon: Installed New Master Cyl. I noticed a white waxy / grease build-up around the push-rod seal on the old M/C, I think that maybe some of that waxy substance may have gotten into my brake lines and causing my M/C to remain in closed mode. Any ideas on how to unblock clogged brake lines without having to replace them? Which one is the Sending line and which is the Return?
+tubejim101 Thank you for your reply. I just replaced the front right caliper. I removed and checked the main brake/ caliper hose and it was totally clear so I know it's not a blocked brake line. When I pop the bleeder it squirts, and when I loosen the main hose banjo bolt it leaks and so it can't be my lines so let's talk about the push rod......I did replaced the Mas.Cyl. and I made an attempt to clean the wall around the pushrod; I don't believe that I turned the pushrod but just in case.... should I be turning clockwise or counter? and How will I know exactly how many turns I may need to apply. Also-- I did replace a 3 ft. brake line under the hood which leads to the rear port on the Mas.Cyl. Would this have any bearing with this situation? Thank you so much for your reply!
I need help with solving a clutch or transmission problem I am having on my Manual Transmission Honda Accord 1997. I was finding the transmission hard to switch a week ago. Then two days ago the shifter did not move at all while the engine was on, but moved freely while the engine was not working (i.e. ignition of). I then noticed the Clutch Fluid Tank Empty. I added DOT 3 fluid. After this with difficulty shiftier moved when the engine was working from 1st to 2nd. I did not bleed the Clutch Fluid Tank yet. The shifter moves freely without the engine is not working. Any idea as to how to solve this problem. Best regards
Only know how Honda did it for 90 to 93 on the Accords, and 92 to 00 on the Civics. You really should be using Honda transmission fluid. I have not done much work on transmissions. One thing you can check. Have someone step on the clutch, and someone watching the clutch slave cylinder. Make sure it is moving when clutch is pressed. There are some toothed rings in the clutch. That are basically the gears. If they are messed up, think it would be easier to just swap the transmission for a good used one.
I have a 95 Accord. My master cylinder looks just like the one in this video. The problem that I am having is the brakes lock up. It's just the front brakes that lock up. I have put 2 sets of calipers and pads on the car. I also have replaced the brake hoses. Do you have any idea what my problem could be?
+januaryman169 How is it locking up? Does it unlock? How it is locking up, would help point to a direction. Two things come to mind. Anti-lock brakes, and proportion valve.
tubejim101 It's interesting that you mention that. My Honda has abs brakes. I bought the car with this problem. Years ago, I bought an S-10 that the brakes locked up on as well. I replaced all the components starting with brake hoses, calipers, and master cylinder. The problem still persist. So, then I replaced the proportion valve and fixed the problem. I mentioned all that because when I looked at the Honda the first time, i was thinking the proportion valve. Most everyone I talk to tells me it's the calipers or brake hoses. As for the abs. I pulled all the fuses and relays for the abs and still had the problem. You don't have to touch the brakes at all. Drive down the road and the brakes will stop the car.
januaryman169 it's possible the brake booster rod needed to be adjusted....there needs to be a .020 inch gap where the master cylinder engages the brake booster rod ...if there is no gap at all then the brakes will always be engaged
Hi, still great video, I have gradual sinking I noticed in traffic, ebrake to the rescue! I have the 5th gen eg civic 16 valve 1.3 carb.... Question : Are the Master Cylinders to fit my OLD model STILL available NEW??!
tubejim101 cheers I've got it on now and it's sorted the problem out! Thank You for the link👍🏽👍🏼👍🏽👍🏼👍🏽 I've even put a review on amazon for the product.
I have a 92 civic. My pedal goes to the floor. I did the same things you did to diagnose after the car was off it held the pressure as I was pumping the brake and held it.it didn't go down after the 15 seconds.There's no leaks around the cylinder. It has fluid. Could it still be the cylinder going out?
Dropping that 👍 9 years later 🔧. Thanks!
Thanks for sharing your video Jim. Regarding the Master Cylinder bleeding procedure, one alternative that worked really well for me was to perform the bleed procedure while installed on the vehicle, which should ensure air has been purged from the master cylinder prior to reconnecting into the brake system and with minimal brake fluid spillage. Here is how I did it:
Prior to proceeding, spray the master cylinder (MC) brake lines and booster nuts with a good lubricant and let it soak ( 1 to 5 minutes depending on how much rust is observed)
1. Place a catch rag under the MC and disconnect the two attached brake lines and remove the existing unit. You may also want to disconnect the MC booster hose, accelerator and cruise control cables (if equipped) from their hold down brackets
2. Install the new MC (one nut snug tight should be sufficient) with the brake lines still detached. If the new MC did not come with the rubber gasket, you may need to use a donor from the old one.
3. Add the bleeder kit per the instructions
4. Top off the brake fluid and pump the brake pedal SLOWLY until all the air bubbles disappear (typically between 15 to 30 pumps)
5. Loosen the MC nut(s) so that there is a little play and remove one of the bleeder hoses and begin threading one of the brake lines by hand (5 to 10 turns should be sufficient)
6. Repeat the same procedure for the last line
7. Tighten both MC mounting nuts to spec (132 inch/lbs)
8. Tighten the MC brakes lines snug tight and wipe down both lines with brake cleaner fluid and paper towel
9. Tighten each line another 1/4 to 1/2 turn or until the fluid no longer drips from the line
10. Ensure the brake reservoir is topped off and pump the brake pedal another 5 to 10 times
11. Recheck the lines for leakage and tighten in 1/4 inch increments until no further leakage is visible
12. Start the vehicle and ensure the pedal firmly stops somewhere between 1/4 and 1/2 to the floor
13. If more travel is observed, check for leaks at each wheel and bleed each wheel cylinder per the owner's manual
In navy basic training firefighting class they teach recruits to turn threaded fittings backwards until the threads are felt to align (there's a "click" feel) before threading inward to avoid cross threading - reason of course being if you foul up the threads & can't extinguish fire, where ya gonna go in the middle of the ocean? Virtually guarantees a crossthread-free life. Also saves a ton of time with stubborn won't-go-in hardline fittings. Best tip anyone ever taught me.
Thanks for taking the time to put this up here. Yours is one of rather few how-tos on this generation of Accord, and the only one I've found so far worth a damn. So, thanks again!
I was working on a 91 honda prelude and everything is the same except the brake lines are on the other side. thanks for a great video, the explanation at the beginning on how to tell if it is your master cylinder really came in handy for me as well. keep up the wonderful work!
+Tman Knoll Thank you.
I have the same car, and a new master cylinder but I don't now if replaceing it will help, brake pedal goes to floor
Just wanted to thank you for the video it helped me alot when I installed my cylinder today unfortunately one of the brake lines got stripped and extended my change out another 45 mins. but all in all went well and now I GOT BREAKS YIPPEE LOL
Very good video. I have never attempted to change a master cylinder before, but I think I can after watching this...wish me luck!
Let us know how it turns out.
tubejim101 Well, I did it exactly like you did it in the video and it worked perfect. Turned out to be not be that big of deal. However, when I went to bleed my brakes at each tire I discovered I had a broken lug on one tire and couldn't get it off, so it went unbled.
I've got my brakes back, but they're super spongy. The tires won't lock up but will stop the car. So, here is my question...was only doing 3/4 of the bleeding a waste of time? Is it all 4 tires, or don't bother?
Look forward to your thoughts and thanks a million for the video, like I said, it was awesome and saved my ass!
bruce keeler So does the lug nut make the lug spin, when you try and take it off? Which wheel could you not bleed?
tubejim101 Ya, it spins but won't come out. Taking it to Schwab in the morning. It is the passenger rear.
I have a 1993 Honda LX.Very clear instructions.Thanks!
Thank you
you have saved me so much effort, thank you so much
Looking forward to try your towel idea. Thanks for sharing.
Exact same problem on our 1990 Honda Accord EX....fluid keeps dropping after refilling it and the pedal keeps getting spongier but ABSOLUTELY no leaks that are seen around the master cylinder, reservoir, tires, calipers, brake hoses, or brake lines. I even park the car over pieces of clean card board and will park over clean pavement in store's parking lots but NEVER see a drop of brake fluid dripping on them.
I ended up saying the leak has to be between the brake's master cylinder and power booster whereby the fluid is leaking around the master cylinder's push rod and being pumped back into the power booster, and so now waiting for our local auto parts store to get the master cylinder ordered in so I can change it and see if that's definitely the problem. If not, where else would the brake fluid be going, right!
Keep us posted on how it goes.
www.quora.com/How-do-you-find-a-brake-fluid-leak-or-bad-master-cylinder
Neil Hamilton, Been a certified motor and diesel mechanic for the past 50 + years
Answered Apr 10, 2017
If your brake fluid level keeps dropping and there are absolutley no visable signs of leakage any where , then rest assured the brake fluid is leaking past the brake plunger seal into the brake vacuum booster and is gradually being sucked into the air intake manifold and burnt in the cylinders . This happens at such a slow pace you will never see any smoke in the exhaust.
Replace the brake master cylinder and bleed all 4 brake lines right back to the wheel cylinders to get rid of any trapped air bubbles . If you dont then the brake pedal will feel spungy .As a side benefit you will have fresh fluid and get rid of any build up of dirt accumulated in the system .
Your brake system will work much better and give you more years of trouble free service.
@get-the-lead-out.4593 I have the same problem. I can't find the leak and I also took off the vacuum line to the brake booster, and I didn't see any leak whatsoever. I tried pushing the pedal down. But I'm not sure what I'm looking for. I mean yes, I can hold down the brake pedal for more than 15 seconds? I'm not understanding this test? I feel absolutely now difference in my breaking when I'm driving?
@6955beneign , shouldn't you be able to see the brake fluid if it is leaking in the brake booster? I mean I took my air hose off my brake booster and I didn't see any signs of any leakage? I'm having the same problem, I checked all 4 tires, wheel wells, and everything. I looked everywhere to see if there is a leak. When I drive, I constantly look to see if a leak occurs. How do we know 100% sure it's a leaky brake master cylinder? Before we just replace it? I felt no difference in my brake pedal whatsoever when I'm driving.
Thanks for this video man
Your welcome.
i could be wrong, bu i think that pedal test you did tests the 'brake booster', and not the master cylinder or brake system
great tutorial thumbs up !! thanks
Question
Can Master cylinder be going bad if I don’t have any break fluid from the bleeder screw coming out but I do in the front breaks bleeder screw.
Yes?
thanks for that video... it empowered me to replace my own master cylinder in my 89 honda civic DX.. it has a similar type of assembly in a similar location.. And similarly, there was no gasket where the master meets the booster.. However, now that I replaced it I have a leak in that zone... should I just redo the install, clean it up and add a silicone gasket of some sort?
+k7michal Brakes are a serious safety issue. If it does not seem right, I would take it in and have someone look at it. There is a very good chance, that your Honda dealer would look at it for free if you did an oil change.
+tubejim101 thank you for the quick reply... luckily the leak is slow and I can always top it off. I went from having to pump my breaks to less pumping of the break and now topping it off...
Thanks well done video. & you're right, I'm a GM guy but always have to back check on my mom's car. Because Hondas are different" LOL this damn thing bleeds RR,Fl,LR,FR Bled it 3X before I leaned this. Any video on the struts?
Think I just have on for rear struts:
Removing rear Civic Struts
1994 Honda Accord Wagon: Installed New Master Cyl. I noticed a white waxy / grease build-up around the push-rod seal on the old M/C, I think that maybe some of that waxy substance may have gotten into my brake lines and causing my M/C to remain in closed mode. Any ideas on how to unblock clogged brake lines without having to replace them? Which one is the Sending line and which is the Return?
+Sam Rosario Should have your brakes serviced at a shop, if you are having trouble with them. Sounds like your pushrod needs adjustment.
+tubejim101 Thank you for your reply. I just replaced the front right caliper. I removed and checked the main brake/ caliper hose and it was totally clear so I know it's not a blocked brake line. When I pop the bleeder it squirts, and when I loosen the main hose banjo bolt it leaks and so it can't be my lines so let's talk about the push rod......I did replaced the Mas.Cyl. and I made an attempt to clean the wall around the pushrod; I don't believe that I turned the pushrod but just in case.... should I be turning clockwise or counter? and How will I know exactly how many turns I may need to apply. Also-- I did replace a 3 ft. brake line under the hood which leads to the rear port on the Mas.Cyl. Would this have any bearing with this situation? Thank you so much for your reply!
I need help with solving a clutch or transmission problem I am having on my Manual Transmission Honda Accord 1997.
I was finding the transmission hard to switch a week ago.
Then two days ago the shifter did not move at all while the engine was on, but moved freely while the engine was not working (i.e. ignition of).
I then noticed the Clutch Fluid Tank Empty. I added DOT 3 fluid. After this with difficulty shiftier moved when the engine was working from 1st to 2nd. I did not bleed the Clutch Fluid Tank yet. The shifter moves freely without the engine is not working.
Any idea as to how to solve this problem.
Best regards
Only know how Honda did it for 90 to 93 on the Accords, and 92 to 00 on the Civics. You really should be using Honda transmission fluid. I have not done much work on transmissions. One thing you can check. Have someone step on the clutch, and someone watching the clutch slave cylinder. Make sure it is moving when clutch is pressed. There are some toothed rings in the clutch. That are basically the gears. If they are messed up, think it would be easier to just swap the transmission for a good used one.
Is that an oem replacement cylinder? Or does it matter?
Bought it at Napa. It is after market. Works well.
Thanks for the response
so its normal for the fluid to be escaping after putting the reservoir and cap on top?
Would say no. Where is it escaping from?
tubejim101 from the 2 ports that is before installing and after the technique
godinez456
No, should not be leaking.
Good vid n info thanks!
I have a 95 Accord. My master cylinder looks just like the one in this video. The problem that I am having is the brakes lock up. It's just the front brakes that lock up. I have put 2 sets of calipers and pads on the car. I also have replaced the brake hoses. Do you have any idea what my problem could be?
+januaryman169 How is it locking up? Does it unlock? How it is locking up, would help point to a direction. Two things come to mind. Anti-lock brakes, and proportion valve.
tubejim101 It's interesting that you mention that. My Honda has abs brakes. I bought the car with this problem. Years ago, I bought an S-10 that the brakes locked up on as well. I replaced all the components starting with brake hoses, calipers, and master cylinder. The problem still persist. So, then I replaced the proportion valve and fixed the problem. I mentioned all that because when I looked at the Honda the first time, i was thinking the proportion valve. Most everyone I talk to tells me it's the calipers or brake hoses. As for the abs. I pulled all the fuses and relays for the abs and still had the problem. You don't have to touch the brakes at all. Drive down the road and the brakes will stop the car.
+januaryman169 Wonder if cruise control would do something like that?
januaryman169 it's possible the brake booster rod needed to be adjusted....there needs to be a
.020 inch gap where the master cylinder engages the brake booster rod ...if there is no gap at all then the brakes will always be engaged
Hi, still great video, I have gradual sinking I noticed in traffic, ebrake to the rescue! I have the 5th gen eg civic 16 valve 1.3 carb.... Question :
Are the Master Cylinders to fit my OLD model STILL available NEW??!
amzn.to/2une399
tubejim101 cheers I've got it on now and it's sorted the problem out! Thank You for the link👍🏽👍🏼👍🏽👍🏼👍🏽
I've even put a review on amazon for the product.
Yo yo I have a 91 prelude si 4ws just curious if it's the same for that car, cause I have a new master cylinder just haven't installed it yet
The testing should be the same.
@@tubejim101 thanks
I have a 92 civic. My pedal goes to the floor. I did the same things you did to diagnose after the car was off it held the pressure as I was pumping the brake and held it.it didn't go down after the 15 seconds.There's no leaks around the cylinder. It has fluid. Could it still be the cylinder going out?
alex sanchez Have you done any work on the brakes?
My brake booster whistles when I'm turning why
Because he does not know the words :)