We are here with you through all the struggles Red! This car is going to be great in the end i know it. I say put the twin carbs on and scarp the old. I think that electronic choke would help with the startups and check the plugs as well. But That carb is leaking from everywhere so i would say start with the carbs you are going to be using in the long haul.
That is a Weber 32/36 DGV carb? The adjusting screw in the base of the carb, must be the iddle mixture adjuster, it sets the amount of fuel for the iddle circuit of the carb. When you tight it, you're cutting fuel to the iddle circuit, when you loose it you're letting more fuel to the circuit. In general, that screw must be 1 and a half to 2 and a half turns from close position for a good iddle mixture, less turns means the carb has a big iddle jet for your engine, more turns means a smaller iddle jet than necesary. The screw near where the thottle cable is attached, is for set the engine iddle speed. For adjust the carb, I follow the next procedure: set the iddle mixture to 2 turns from close position, and the iddle speed to about 1.000 rmps: then close the iddle mixture one quarter of a turn each time, until the rpms begins to drop...then backup the mixture screw half a turn. To this point, I set the iddle rpms to about 850-900 rpms for a steady iddle. In your case, I believe your carb is leaking gas everywhere, even inside the engine, so adjusting it is near imposible (and likely flooding your engine, this will explain the hard time starting it). If you want to keep this carb, it will need a full refurbish. Also, for better tunning, you'll need an tachometer you can see when adjusting the carb (could be an electronic unit that attachs to a sparkplug cable), and very recomended (but not necesary) a sort of external lambda sensor of the type with a exhaust terminal probe, so you can track the mixture in real time. Also, check your timing: I believe for your car must be set to about 10° BTDC at iddle with the vacuum unit in the distributor disconnected, but better check your repair manual. I hope you can find the problem, for enjoy that beautiful car!
Thank you for the information! I've ordered a rebuilt kit for the carb. It's a 34 dgec solex carb branded as weber. If after the rebuild I am still having issues I will most likely switch to the twin carbs or purchase a brand new unit.
We are here with you through all the struggles Red! This car is going to be great in the end i know it. I say put the twin carbs on and scarp the old. I think that electronic choke would help with the startups and check the plugs as well. But That carb is leaking from everywhere so i would say start with the carbs you are going to be using in the long haul.
That is a Weber 32/36 DGV carb? The adjusting screw in the base of the carb, must be the iddle mixture adjuster, it sets the amount of fuel for the iddle circuit of the carb. When you tight it, you're cutting fuel to the iddle circuit, when you loose it you're letting more fuel to the circuit. In general, that screw must be 1 and a half to 2 and a half turns from close position for a good iddle mixture, less turns means the carb has a big iddle jet for your engine, more turns means a smaller iddle jet than necesary. The screw near where the thottle cable is attached, is for set the engine iddle speed. For adjust the carb, I follow the next procedure: set the iddle mixture to 2 turns from close position, and the iddle speed to about 1.000 rmps: then close the iddle mixture one quarter of a turn each time, until the rpms begins to drop...then backup the mixture screw half a turn. To this point, I set the iddle rpms to about 850-900 rpms for a steady iddle. In your case, I believe your carb is leaking gas everywhere, even inside the engine, so adjusting it is near imposible (and likely flooding your engine, this will explain the hard time starting it). If you want to keep this carb, it will need a full refurbish. Also, for better tunning, you'll need an tachometer you can see when adjusting the carb (could be an electronic unit that attachs to a sparkplug cable), and very recomended (but not necesary) a sort of external lambda sensor of the type with a exhaust terminal probe, so you can track the mixture in real time. Also, check your timing: I believe for your car must be set to about 10° BTDC at iddle with the vacuum unit in the distributor disconnected, but better check your repair manual. I hope you can find the problem, for enjoy that beautiful car!
Thank you for the information! I've ordered a rebuilt kit for the carb. It's a 34 dgec solex carb branded as weber. If after the rebuild I am still having issues I will most likely switch to the twin carbs or purchase a brand new unit.
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throw those twins on !