exactly right. i used this months ago when i set up my printer, just upgraded a bunch of stuff and wanted to do a full refresh tune up but of course i forgot how, so i opened up the book of ricky to save the day.
Your series on the Sonic Pad is literally the best and most accurate information available to date. Thank you so much for making these videos. It would be AMAZING if you made an Advanced Series as well. I have improved my prints 10 fold due to your videos. Thank you!
I've been trying to do this without much success. Your video explained the process in such an easy and manageable way. Thanks to you, I now have better quality AND faster prints as a result.
Thank you so much for this series of videos aimed toward Sonic Pad users. There's so much negativity around this device, people saying it's crap and "just get a raspberry pi" etc, it makes it hard to find help. Your videos are great and honestly Creality should be paying you for providing support documentation!!
Your channel has quickly become my go to for all questions 3D printing. Unlike other content creators, you actually have something to say. Where as most of the others just use the information to hear the sound of their own voices. I have a ton of questions but I’ll try to spread them out between the videos that are already covering something similar. As far as pressure advance, I understand the test, the purpose and desired outcome. What I’m curious about is why the pressure isn’t calculated in real time by monitoring the amps used by the stepper motor which is a decent representation of the rise or fall in nozzle pressure. I’ve only been into 3d printing for about 3-4 months now. I started with an Ender 3 (1.0), then realized I needed to increase print volume so I got an Ender 3 S1. Wanting to print more exotic filaments, and having developed some brand loyalty, I just got a K1C . A new line of filament from polymaker called Fiberon is basically all engineering grade filaments. What’s more, all of their filaments have printing profiles for the BambúLabs X1 Carbon which has properties that aren’t to far from the K1C . I downloaded the config files and manually setup filament profiles in Creality Print (I know most people aren’t fans) and found that the filament print variables fall within the parameters of the K1C . The PPS-CF is at the upper limit of the K1C print temp but should work. I have 2 spools of Fiberon arriving today, the PETG-rCF and PET-CF17 so we’ll see how it goes. Thanks for the videos!!
Thank you for all of the videos and work you do. Really saved us all a ton of time in researching and explaining klipper features and set up. Your channel has been my number one resource in getting my printer upgraded. Kudos my man!
0.578 is my number for an Ender 3 v2 with a Bowden tube and a Minimus shroud. The test model printed out with a very obvious bulging corner, to a small area that was good, and then an edge that was falling in. Thank God for your videos, Ricky! The test calibration cube printed out perfectly.
thanks again bro.i used this video a long time ago and came back as im retuning my printer. i cant thank you enough for what you share here, ive used all these videos to help me get a job printing. you are the man!
Thank you for this video series. I spent the weekend following this series to the letter and I learned a lot. The most important thing I learned was my E3S1 Pro w/Sonic Pad was never going to be dimensionally accurate and I ordered an X1C.
Just a little tip for anyone attempting to do this. While its visible in the slicer settings but it is not mentioned to have turned off in your personal settings, make sure to also turn off "jerk control" because this is essentially what we are tuning and like mentioned to turn off "acceleration control" it fights pressure advance. I am not a slicer guru like some and printed 3 terrible cubes before I stumbled across that pressure advance is Klippers version of jerk.
Brilliant content you have helped me, from building my ender 3 v2 to doing my first print and now setting up my sonic pad I've only been 3d printing for about 8 weeks thank you 😊
Thank you for this series of videos on the Sonic Pad. I've worked my way through them, and I'd say my Ender 3 S1 is printing nicely and faster now that I have my Sonic Pad setup and calibrated!
Yet another in a long line of awesome videos. Keep up the great work Ricky. I just installed a Sprite Pro on my Ender 3 Max NEO that I already had using the Sonic Pad. It was quite an ordeal thanks to a total lack of documentation from Creality for using the Sprite Pro with the Sonic. Pressure advance is the only thing I haven't finished up and am going to do that shortly. Ironically the Sonic offered up a brand new firmware update this morning that said it directly supports the Sprite Pro, but once again, zero documentation and you cannot even see this firmware release on Creality or Cloud websites.
Love all these videos and followed them perfectly…. Almost perfectly. Pay attention to how you enter the new pressure advance setting. Somehow I entered 0.71 when it should have been .071. Prints were horrible.
Your videos are amazing. Always to the point and very clear with directions. I was hesitant to get the sonic pad, but once I saw you were using one and had videos, I was much more comfortable getting it. I am all up and running! And prints look amazing, at blazing speed. Thanks.
Awesome, i'm glad my videos gave you the confidence to take the plunge and, more importantly, that you are happy with your purchase. Thanks for the comment👍
Having just got into 3d printing 2 months ago, I cant thank you enough for these videos. Excellent stuff. Can I ask now that the sonic pad has had some time to develop and improve, would you consider making an update video series on whats changed since releasing these guides? An "advanced" guide to go with this? Regardless, you deserve much more than just a coffee IMO. Id like to buy you dinner, too. LOL. Ive now subscribed and look forward to your future content. Again, thank you, Ricky.
Thank you for these detailed videos. Bought a S1 Plus and a Sonic Pad and im super new to 3D printing. But with your videos, i've been able to get things going pretty quick. Much appreciated!
I want to mention something, i have creality cr m4 with sonic pad. Sliced gcode with slicer manipulated pressure advance doesn't change anything. I had to change it in the sonic pad. Thanks a lot for the amazing tutorial. You are a life saver.
This is a brilliant series. Thank you so much. Everything is becoming much clearer Any chance you could provide some information on using the movement parameters when printing.
So...what if after only like 2 layers it's underextruding and getting stringy? Is that still just same formula? If I print a regular print there's lumps all over
Thank you so much for spending the time to make these videos! I've just upgraded to the Creality CR-M4 with a Sonic Pad. I've been following along often replaying your videos numerous times to get the information sunk into my aging brain, but I'm stuck now. I'm using CURA and the Endor 3 v1 Pro profile to work my CR-M4 (I can't find any CR-M4 profiles anywhere) but at this point when I try to print the Square Tower I get to 99% and then get the following error: Unable to parse move 'G1 Z0.2 E' I tried other files and get the same error at 99%. Creality Print doesn't give me this error, but I would really rather use CURA. Any suggestions as to why this is happening? Thanks, again this is an awesome series... The manual Creality didn't supply! Update: I learned that the End G-Code from the Creality PDF has a typo, and should read: G1 Z0.2 E-2 F2400
Thank you for your very helpful videos, I followed all the instructions and now I would like to try to print the object you see at 5:15 but I can't find the file.
Thank you for this series about the Sonic pad! Truly briliant!👌 But I have a question, when I do the pressure advance test my prints looks great just at the bottom and then starts to get worse higher up. Can I set a negative value to start the calibration just to sort out the perfect measurement?
Ricky, you made an excellent playlist, but you didn't mention *how many WALLS* should be set for the test. I've always seen just one, but in your video, it seems like there are 2 or 3... Can you clarify?
Hi, it doesn't really matter as it's only the outside corners that we are looking at. I believe I just left the walls at the default value for this profile so it was 2 or 3. You could just use 1 to save time and filament too.
I would very happily accept a piece of cake Yvonne🙂 I love that people like yourself, the non-stereotypical 3d printer user, are finding my videos useful. This hobby is for everyone, thanks for all your comments through the Sonic Pad series👍
Thank you this video series @RickyImpey ! But I have one question: these setting for Cura (Layer Height, Print Speed, Travel Speed, etc), are they only for this pressure test or do I need to keep them for future printing?
First of all...LOVE your videos I've watched this entire series over these last few months since I got my first printer (Ender 3 S1 Pro) and the Sonic Pad!! Quick question though, I'm finding sharp corners at higher speeds and accel to have huge divots in the seams so is there any benefit to running the pressure advance test at the higher speeds and accel that you would be printing at? Perhaps a speed of 150-200 mm/s and accel of 2000 or more instead of 100/500? I'm not entirely sure if it's pressure advance related yet, but wanted to ask anyways.
Hi Ricky! Thanks for the videos!! I just printed the tower. Do I have to restart the Sonic Pad after printing or are the command line codes (SET_VELOCITY_LIMIT SQUARE_CORNER_VELOCITY=1 ACCEL=500 - *Direct Drive* - TUNING_TOWER COMMAND=SET_PRESSURE_ADVANCE PARAMETER=ADVANCE START=0 FACTOR=.005 in my case) only used once? I saw in a previous video I had to enter a code after completion so the printer got back to the normal state (Rotational distance -> m82)?
That was just a quick model I created with lots of square corners to try and show the difference pressure advance can make. I don't have it uploaded anywhere.
Thankyou for making the videos and I am getting a lot out of your videos, but I do have 1 request. Slow down. It seems like you have speed up the screens even as you are entering. New to 3d printing, I am having to replay sections many times to try and keep up. Possibly make a written guide that one can follow step by step? Thanks!
DITTO... I have to play some sections several times because Ricky speaks fast, and not so clearly, so I'd echi the rquest to Ricky "please slow down and speak clearly", however, his videos are some of the best around, too.
Thank you for a great series. I'm struggling with the methodology on this one. Your procedure describes setting the layer height to %75 of the nozzle diameter (i.e. 0.4mm x 0.75 = 0.3 mm). I think this is appropriate if you are normally printing at 0.3mm layer height. But what if you normally print at 0.12 or 01.5mm? It reasons to me the nozzle pressure will very highly depending upon your actual print height. Shouldn't we do this PA calibration at your normal height? I've been scratching my head. I did a calibration at the %75 (0.3mm) and print at 0.12mm. It looks terrible. I'm going to repeat this method but at my normal slice height and see how it affects output. I'm not challenging you here, merely trying to reach a better level of understanding.
Ricky, your walkthroughs are amazing! Keep up the good work. I was hoping you could give me a pointer above .2 layer height with my 06 nozzle. 75% is out of the question, I cant get this tower to print. I've been working on it for three days and nothing I do seems to help. I'm lost! I have followed you all they way through tin sonic pad serries. Please Help!
Hi, have you tried a smaller layer height just to get it to print? The 75% part isn't critical and is mainly to speed the print up but also to help make defects more critical.
I had a similar problem: stock Ender 3 V2 hot end, but with a 0.6mm CHT nozzle. A layer height of 75% of the nozzle width (0.45mm) at 100mm/s with a 0.6mm nozzle would require 27mm^3/s of flow; way above what this hot end can do. I printed the tower with the above settings but a 50mm/s print speed. It worked (for the purposes of the test) but it was struggling. If I did it again I'd reduce the layer height to 0.3mm to give the hot end an easier time.
My first layer along with every layer looks awful. Gaps in the filament 6 layers up please help I don't know what else to do. I have a glass bed and the mesh diagram showing 0.0X for most points however the mesh diagram is not flat and looks distorted in one corner
!! {"code":"key112", "msg": "Move exceeds maximum extrusion (1.200mm^2 vs 0.640mm^2) See the 'max_extrude_cross_section' config option for details", "values": [1.200, 0.640]} i get this error
The console codes is made of two parts, one is to set_velocity_limit acceleration, the second is the printer-specific set_pressure_advance test parameters, make sure both are entered. I once forgot to enter the first command and ended up factory resetting everything only to realize my mistake later on, lol.
Thank you, Ricky! that was the most clear and simple explanation, I've seen! It helped me to configure pressure advance on my Ender 5 S1 with Sonic Pad connected - I did everything according to your guide: 1. PID tune (bed + extruder) 2. verified E-Step (it was fine) 3. Input shaping 4. Pressure advance Than I printed ringing tower with full speed 250 mm/s - the print was succeesfull, however I still see some minor ghosting. My understanding was that Klipper should shape the speed profile disregarding the speed I've set in slicer (PrusaSlicer in my case). Is it correct? Or should I still lower the speed in the slicer to avoid ghosting?
Hi, in a way, yes and yes. Klipper will attempt to reach the speed settings you ask it to but it will limit and control the acceleration using your input shaping tune plus any other acceleration settings. There is also only so much the input shaping sensor can do and sometimes some more fine tuning of the resonance compensation is necessary. There is some good information here if you want to learn more: www.klipper3d.org/Resonance_Compensation.html
iv watched every video up to this one and just now seeing "Since recent firmware change, it is necessary to issue a 'restart' command after changing any settings or following any calibration procedures.*Do i have to go back through every step again? Also is restart command the same as SAVE_CONFIG because that restarts it as well
Ricky what fans and shroud are you using on your sprite extruder in the video? Would you recommend it? Im having trouble with overhangs since the Sonic Pad unless I really slow things down. I'm guessing it's a cooling issue. I mostly print PETG. +++ I think I’m mistaken I thought that was Sprite extruder!
I run the Minimus Cooler on my E3v2 but currently standard cooling on my S1 Pro with a Sprite extruder. The cooling is the weak part though and needs work. I plan to do something about this soon.
for some reason the extruder motor gets disabled following your guide, do you know what could be the cause of this? I've just received my pad today and all the other vids u made worked perfectly. thx for your time u put in these understandable tutorials anyway!
If you have the web ui open and watch the gcode screen that you enter commands on as it's printing the test piece , you can see what it's adding for pressure advance and if quick , can find the best layer and use the number that's on the screen to get real f'n close , just my 2c , .085 is what web ui said and I ended at .087
Every time I try to start the tuning tower print it starts printing the first layer and then gives an error that says that the "move exceeds maximum extrusion" and stops the print. I looked over and watch the whole video again, but nothing works. I basically give up at this point.
These videos are awesome! I’ve been fighting with the sonic pad for 5 hours tonight and I’m back at step 1. Any chance you want to make a video on changing the config file when you add a sprite extruder? I’ve got a Neo max that I put a sprite extruder on. Had it configured perfect with marlin but Klipper is kicking my rear.
I don't have the wiring loom to fit a sprite to my V2 so I can't test it but is it not just a case of setting a different rotational distance and probe offsets? I didn't think they used different board pins but I could be wrong.
@@RickyImpey You are spot on. I got the rotational distance set perfect thanks to your video. Hitting 100 mm spot on everytime now. The probe offsets and extruder offsets are what keep giving me issues. Every example I find online has me probing off the bed. The ones that do probe close have me printing out of center on the bed. That seems to be my last hang up is just finding the right positioning to enter for the sprite.
Thanks for some great videos. I have followed all up until now with no problem . I have come to slice the tower and get the message unable to slice due to small layer temperature setting ? any Ideas? using the imported normal PLA profile This appears to have sorted itself out after re starting this morning?
Yes, this is a new setting with Cura, I believe it's in the cooling section, you may need to make it visible. It confused me for a while too. I believe you need to ensure that it isn't lower than the first layer temperature.
Great material, thanks again for taking the time to share this. I Have an ender 3 s1. I've followed all your videos to this point, but I cannot get this cube to print properly at all at these new speeds (profiles from previous video), not to mention the retraction makes a terrible noise. Every layer is literally missing chunks out of the sides, lots of separation. The only way I initially was able to get it to print is to slow it back down to pre-sonicpad speed of 60mms. So taking a different route I've increased the flow rate to 120%, then 150% which hasn't made any difference. I didn't have the vibration sensor, so I tried it with both acceleration control on and off, but no difference. Just using esun PLA+. I've ordered a vibration sensor, is it just that it can't print at these speeds without the vibration sensor? I'm happy if that's the case, otherwise starting to feel like maybe there is actually something wrong with the printer Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
OK worked it out with a bit more trial and error. Went back to scratch and whatever I did I must have accidentally messed up somthing as the horrible retraction noise has gone. I've also upped the nozzle temperature by 5% so printing 220 for PLA+ and between that and the retraction issue so far so good, almost perfect in fact! don't even have the vibration sensor yet. Thanks
The code you enter before running the print zeros the pressure advance before then changing for each layer it so you can repeat the process exactly every time.
Question for you is there a code I need to add or delete after I am done this to erase the 2 I placed in to run the test? Secondly has anyone experienced worse print quality since doing this?
Thanks again Ricky for clear direction. I ran this test on my ender 5 s1 and saw clear deteriation on the corners. However, when I ran the test on my stock ender 3 v2, I could see no clear flaws on any exterior walls. Pressure advance is set on default 0. Is this unusual?
@@RickyImpey I stopped the print because of initial adhesion problems. And I wondered if I lost my command lines when I restarted. After that attempt I had a bowden tube fail and I'm waiting for a replacement. So I haven't gotten a re-do.
WIth my Ender S1 Pro, I did all PA test, all other tests before and after including the speed and etc.. Then I tried to print a model (probably a not very good one) and my extruder started to tear the filament from the the bed. After several unsuccessful trials, I reset everything but I havent been able to print anything since. Changed the nozzle, reset everything, increase, decrease various heat factors, simply does not work. Interesting.
Another great video, I managed to follow through all the steps but perhaps I have missed something as getting a popping sound when printing. It’s not all the time though. I have the sonic pad on a Ender 3 s1 pro. Any ideas anyone?
A popping sound can often be a symptom of moisture in your filament. Do you have a way to dry your filament?> If not, try this: th-cam.com/video/WC3jvuq-uq8/w-d-xo.html
So, found out after dismanteling the extrusion element i went to take a closer look at the motor itself. Does it really does nothing or??? Well yes its moving very fast but back and forth. Bad luck in flashing i thought so i flashed the original creality firmware onto it. Same result. Ok faulty stepper motor so i took exactly a spare one and this one did the same thing moving very fast back and forth. So i prolly somehow burned out the driver? Logic says to look at the last thing you changed before things start going bad. And that is connecting the Sonic Pad. So what i have now is a unusable pad, and a printer that costed me 529 euro.
Firstly, a big thanks for you videos, nothing to say just a really clear perfect job! On my brand new ender 3 S1 pro, i just ran the input shaping and pressure advance test in a row (after all your other test mention in the series in the right order, PID, E-steps etc..) The test tower was printed perfectly with really straight lines on 0.3 layer hight with no ghosting at all (with a kinda mate black finish with my PLA). After setting the pressure advance (10.68mmX0.005=0,0534 pressure advance value) my calibration cube and benchy (printed at 60mm/s instead of 100mm/s for the tower test and with 0.02 layer hight) looks kinda glassy with some micro ghosting on the lines. But the cube and benchy now have perfect angles. Do you think i need to run both tests again? is it possible that the sonic pad didnt saved the input shaping test correctly? I can send pictures if needed. Thanks a lot!
The matte vs glossy look is purely temperature related, lower nozzle temperature to have a more matte look, and increase to have glossy look. Glossy make all imperfection more visible. You can go in the config file in the WebUI of the sonic pad to see if the input shaping are saved, look at the bottom of the file you should see a DO NOT EDIT with a #*# [input_shaper] and some value under it. Also make sure you uncheck the 'enable acceleration control' in your slicer.
After the test print do I have to set a command for leaving the pressure advance test mode or is this command only active for the next print and then dissable automatically?
OK Ricky, help some of us fence riders out. I am capable of adding Klipper to my Ender 3v2 via other means ( additional computer etc) but the ease of the SonicPad is tempting. However, bottom line, do you suggest one over the other (roll my own or purchase Sonic Pad) and if not, why not. Am I lazy? Probably. TY in advance.
If you have the kit and ability to add klipper without the Sonic Pad then save yourself some money. However, if you want the screen near your printer rather than having to have your phone or laptop nearby then the Sonic Pad could be the best option.
One question - will it be necessary to repeat the tuning steps for different materials, or will the tuned up settings done with PLA work for PETG , ABS etc as well ? Very usable info om this channel. Creality should bed ashamed to not provide this themselves.
Strictly speaking, yes you would need to tune for every filament but in practice, you'd need to see if there are any issues with a test print. It might not be something you could see.
Once I have done this, if I want to print at a higher speed should I redo the pressure advance test with the speed turned up or will it compensate for it in the firmware?
i only made it to 15mm. could I have other issues with my printer or should I make the adjustment and keep going? my pressure advance setting will only be .075. i have a ender 3 s1 pro.
This calibration is related to the speed which the test is performed (100mm/s). If we want to increase the speed we should run this calibration with different speed right? I printed on 160-170 mm/s after performing the calibration successfully and my print have issues with the corners. All your tests I guess is performed in 100mm/s. Personally I want to pump up the speeds even more.
Haha I just asked the same question. For kicks I'm gonna run a PA test with 200 mm/s and 3500-5000 accel tonight and do a benchy. I'm trying to take these divots out of the corners like you I believe!!
Hello Ricky, question when doing the pressure advance cube to test. do I need to put my flow rate at 100% or leave it as what I have it. I have tried this before and made chance and It seem to have made it worse. for me.
I very rarely change flow so I would do mine at 100%. However, if you can't get good quality and you've tuned rotational distance then use whatever you plan you slice with. It's all about dialing in the best quality for your machine so use whatever looks best if my settings aren't working for you👍
I have followed all the videos starting with the basics playlist and after finishing this pressure advance tutorial i printed a calibration cube. The first few layers are warped and their edges are rough. I am using the creality cura profile and the only thing i changed was the retraction. I have an Ender 3 S1 Pro. Any advice? After tweaking the initial temperatures most of the issue is gone.
Do I still need to input a retraction setting? Or do I leave retraction off for the test as it might mess up the flow? Or does pressure advance eliminate the need for retraction at all?
How do you update the printer.cfg file where it actually saves/updates to the printer firmware? A friend of mine has the sonic pad hooked up to his Ender 5 Plus, along with a new sprite extruder installed. Since he installed the sprite extruder, he now needs to edit the printer.cfg file with new probe offsets and PID settings, but he cant seem to get it to save. The issue he is having is that when he edits the printer.cfg file via mainsail in the web browser, and then clicks save/restart firmware, nothing actually gets updated in his printer firmware. After he edits and saves/restarts firmware, it still homes off center. In addition to that, the settings he edited in the printer.cfg will reset back to default if he powers the printer and sonic pad off/on. Any idea how to resolve this issue, and actually update the firmware settings?
Hello Ricky i have been waiting your videos on the sonic pad to set up my,everything was going well until setting up pressure advance whe i went to to print the square it stop at 99% and displayed !! Unable to parse move 'G1 Z0.2 E' how can i fix this issue thanks
Your end g-code in Cura must have an error in it. Go line by line and make sure that it matches exactly what is in the PDF from Creality. I had the exact same problem and it was because I copy/pasted and it messed up the code.
Your channel is like the manual we wish we had.
exactly right. i used this months ago when i set up my printer, just upgraded a bunch of stuff and wanted to do a full refresh tune up but of course i forgot how, so i opened up the book of ricky to save the day.
💯 Used it to set up my first printer and back here for another one.
Your series on the Sonic Pad is literally the best and most accurate information available to date. Thank you so much for making these videos. It would be AMAZING if you made an Advanced Series as well. I have improved my prints 10 fold due to your videos. Thank you!
honestly its been a life saver this sonic pad is not plug n play and all lol if you want to get the most out of it that is lol
I've been trying to do this without much success. Your video explained the process in such an easy and manageable way. Thanks to you, I now have better quality AND faster prints as a result.
Bro you are so incredibly underrated
This whole series is absolutely amazing
Thank you so much for this series of videos aimed toward Sonic Pad users. There's so much negativity around this device, people saying it's crap and "just get a raspberry pi" etc, it makes it hard to find help. Your videos are great and honestly Creality should be paying you for providing support documentation!!
Huge thank you for this series. A lot of the forums have this information but don't do the explaining to the level of detail you do
Your channel has quickly become my go to for all questions 3D printing. Unlike other content creators, you actually have something to say. Where as most of the others just use the information to hear the sound of their own voices.
I have a ton of questions but I’ll try to spread them out between the videos that are already covering something similar.
As far as pressure advance, I understand the test, the purpose and desired outcome. What I’m curious about is why the pressure isn’t calculated in real time by monitoring the amps used by the stepper motor which is a decent representation of the rise or fall in nozzle pressure.
I’ve only been into 3d printing for about 3-4 months now. I started with an Ender 3 (1.0), then realized I needed to increase print volume so I got an Ender 3 S1. Wanting to print more exotic filaments, and having developed some brand loyalty, I just got a K1C . A new line of filament from polymaker called Fiberon is basically all engineering grade filaments. What’s more, all of their filaments have printing profiles for the BambúLabs X1 Carbon which has properties that aren’t to far from the K1C . I downloaded the config files and manually setup filament profiles in Creality Print (I know most people aren’t fans) and found that the filament print variables fall within the parameters of the K1C . The PPS-CF is at the upper limit of the K1C print temp but should work. I have 2 spools of Fiberon arriving today, the PETG-rCF and PET-CF17 so we’ll see how it goes. Thanks for the videos!!
Your videos are invaluable.
A wealth of knowledge and well made.
Thanks very much.
Thank you for all of the videos and work you do. Really saved us all a ton of time in researching and explaining klipper features and set up. Your channel has been my number one resource in getting my printer upgraded. Kudos my man!
0.578 is my number for an Ender 3 v2 with a Bowden tube and a Minimus shroud. The test model printed out with a very obvious bulging corner, to a small area that was good, and then an edge that was falling in. Thank God for your videos, Ricky! The test calibration cube printed out perfectly.
Same setup. I got 0.528
thanks again bro.i used this video a long time ago and came back as im retuning my printer. i cant thank you enough for what you share here, ive used all these videos to help me get a job printing. you are the man!
Thank you for this video series. I spent the weekend following this series to the letter and I learned a lot. The most important thing I learned was my E3S1 Pro w/Sonic Pad was never going to be dimensionally accurate and I ordered an X1C.
Same Setup here😂
Stl for tower in very first link,took me 15 minute's to find it for those wondering,Thanks again for great content
What does it mean if the print is crappy from the first layer and doesn't get any better?
My calibration cube came out the best print i have ever had,thanks ever so much
Ricky, your cadence is perfect. The info is accurate and easy to follow. Thank you for filling a glaring hole in Creality's documentation.
Just a little tip for anyone attempting to do this. While its visible in the slicer settings but it is not mentioned to have turned off in your personal settings, make sure to also turn off "jerk control" because this is essentially what we are tuning and like mentioned to turn off "acceleration control" it fights pressure advance. I am not a slicer guru like some and printed 3 terrible cubes before I stumbled across that pressure advance is Klippers version of jerk.
This is by far the best how to setup the Sonic Pad with a 3d printer. Thanks a lot!
Brilliant content you have helped me, from building my ender 3 v2 to doing my first print and now setting up my sonic pad I've only been 3d printing for about 8 weeks thank you 😊
Thank you for this series of videos on the Sonic Pad.
I've worked my way through them, and I'd say my Ender 3 S1 is printing nicely and faster now that I have my Sonic Pad setup and calibrated!
the best sonic pad vidoes, thank you!!!
Yet another in a long line of awesome videos. Keep up the great work Ricky. I just installed a Sprite Pro on my Ender 3 Max NEO that I already had using the Sonic Pad. It was quite an ordeal thanks to a total lack of documentation from Creality for using the Sprite Pro with the Sonic. Pressure advance is the only thing I haven't finished up and am going to do that shortly. Ironically the Sonic offered up a brand new firmware update this morning that said it directly supports the Sprite Pro, but once again, zero documentation and you cannot even see this firmware release on Creality or Cloud websites.
Love all these videos and followed them perfectly…. Almost perfectly. Pay attention to how you enter the new pressure advance setting. Somehow I entered 0.71 when it should have been .071. Prints were horrible.
Your videos are amazing. Always to the point and very clear with directions. I was hesitant to get the sonic pad, but once I saw you were using one and had videos, I was much more comfortable getting it. I am all up and running! And prints look amazing, at blazing speed. Thanks.
Awesome, i'm glad my videos gave you the confidence to take the plunge and, more importantly, that you are happy with your purchase. Thanks for the comment👍
Thank you so much for this series of videos. Without it my sonic pad is just a fancy screen
Having just got into 3d printing 2 months ago, I cant thank you enough for these videos. Excellent stuff. Can I ask now that the sonic pad has had some time to develop and improve, would you consider making an update video series on whats changed since releasing these guides? An "advanced" guide to go with this? Regardless, you deserve much more than just a coffee IMO. Id like to buy you dinner, too. LOL. Ive now subscribed and look forward to your future content. Again, thank you, Ricky.
Good idea, I'll give it some thought.
Thank you for these detailed videos. Bought a S1 Plus and a Sonic Pad and im super new to 3D printing. But with your videos, i've been able to get things going pretty quick. Much appreciated!
I want to mention something, i have creality cr m4 with sonic pad. Sliced gcode with slicer manipulated pressure advance doesn't change anything. I had to change it in the sonic pad. Thanks a lot for the amazing tutorial. You are a life saver.
I love this series this is the only channel I trust
This is a brilliant series. Thank you so much. Everything is becoming much clearer
Any chance you could provide some information on using the movement parameters when printing.
Thank you so much for this and all your other videos, you’re brilliant at explaining things and I’ve learned so much!
It really is a pleasure to help and know people find it useful in some way👍
Loving all these videos. Thank you!
This is such a nice concise video! Can't wait to tune this on my S1 Pro with sonic pad later!
So...what if after only like 2 layers it's underextruding and getting stringy? Is that still just same formula? If I print a regular print there's lumps all over
Hi, I have the same ¨crappy¨, Have you fixed? Im running a E3v2 without CR, neither BL !!
thank you so very much for all your videos...i learned soo much from them..!!!
Amazing video series greatly helpful !
Important note here - run the restart command after this to return cornering back to normal operations
Amazing content as always. I’m off to have a go at that! 🎉
Enjoy!
Thank you so much for spending the time to make these videos! I've just upgraded to the Creality CR-M4 with a Sonic Pad. I've been following along often replaying your videos numerous times to get the information sunk into my aging brain, but I'm stuck now. I'm using CURA and the Endor 3 v1 Pro profile to work my CR-M4 (I can't find any CR-M4 profiles anywhere) but at this point when I try to print the Square Tower I get to 99% and then get the following error: Unable to parse move 'G1 Z0.2 E' I tried other files and get the same error at 99%. Creality Print doesn't give me this error, but I would really rather use CURA. Any suggestions as to why this is happening? Thanks, again this is an awesome series... The manual Creality didn't supply!
Update: I learned that the End G-Code from the Creality PDF has a typo, and should read: G1 Z0.2 E-2 F2400
Thank you for your very helpful videos, I followed all the instructions and now I would like to try to print the object you see at 5:15 but I can't find the file.
Thank you for this series about the Sonic pad! Truly briliant!👌
But I have a question, when I do the pressure advance test my prints looks great just at the bottom and then starts to get worse higher up. Can I set a negative value to start the calibration just to sort out the perfect measurement?
Mine does the same thing
Ricky, you made an excellent playlist, but you didn't mention *how many WALLS* should be set for the test. I've always seen just one, but in your video, it seems like there are 2 or 3... Can you clarify?
Hi, it doesn't really matter as it's only the outside corners that we are looking at. I believe I just left the walls at the default value for this profile so it was 2 or 3. You could just use 1 to save time and filament too.
Thank you very much for this video! It has helped me a ton!
So perfectly clear! Brilliant video thanks. If I were not an OAP on a pension I would not only buy you a coffee I would include cake!
I would very happily accept a piece of cake Yvonne🙂 I love that people like yourself, the non-stereotypical 3d printer user, are finding my videos useful. This hobby is for everyone, thanks for all your comments through the Sonic Pad series👍
Fantastic video's
Thank you this video series @RickyImpey !
But I have one question: these setting for Cura (Layer Height, Print Speed, Travel Speed, etc), are they only for this pressure test or do I need to keep them for future printing?
First of all...LOVE your videos I've watched this entire series over these last few months since I got my first printer (Ender 3 S1 Pro) and the Sonic Pad!! Quick question though, I'm finding sharp corners at higher speeds and accel to have huge divots in the seams so is there any benefit to running the pressure advance test at the higher speeds and accel that you would be printing at? Perhaps a speed of 150-200 mm/s and accel of 2000 or more instead of 100/500? I'm not entirely sure if it's pressure advance related yet, but wanted to ask anyways.
Hi Ricky! Thanks for the videos!! I just printed the tower. Do I have to restart the Sonic Pad after printing or are the command line codes (SET_VELOCITY_LIMIT SQUARE_CORNER_VELOCITY=1 ACCEL=500 - *Direct Drive* - TUNING_TOWER COMMAND=SET_PRESSURE_ADVANCE PARAMETER=ADVANCE START=0 FACTOR=.005 in my case) only used once? I saw in a previous video I had to enter a code after completion so the printer got back to the normal state (Rotational distance -> m82)?
You can either send the command "restart" in the consloe or just restart the sonic pad manually. this will clear the printer
Great series, I have one question though do you have a link to the last print that you showed?
That was just a quick model I created with lots of square corners to try and show the difference pressure advance can make. I don't have it uploaded anywhere.
Thankyou for making the videos and I am getting a lot out of your videos, but I do have 1 request. Slow down. It seems like you have speed up the screens even as you are entering. New to 3d printing, I am having to replay sections many times to try and keep up. Possibly make a written guide that one can follow step by step? Thanks!
DITTO... I have to play some sections several times because Ricky speaks fast, and not so clearly, so I'd echi the rquest to Ricky "please slow down and speak clearly", however, his videos are some of the best around, too.
Thank you for a great series. I'm struggling with the methodology on this one. Your procedure describes setting the layer height to %75 of the nozzle diameter (i.e. 0.4mm x 0.75 = 0.3 mm). I think this is appropriate if you are normally printing at 0.3mm layer height. But what if you normally print at 0.12 or 01.5mm? It reasons to me the nozzle pressure will very highly depending upon your actual print height. Shouldn't we do this PA calibration at your normal height? I've been scratching my head. I did a calibration at the %75 (0.3mm) and print at 0.12mm. It looks terrible. I'm going to repeat this method but at my normal slice height and see how it affects output. I'm not challenging you here, merely trying to reach a better level of understanding.
Ricky, your walkthroughs are amazing! Keep up the good work. I was hoping you could give me a pointer above .2 layer height with my 06 nozzle. 75% is out of the question, I cant get this tower to print. I've been working on it for three days and nothing I do seems to help. I'm lost! I have followed you all they way through tin sonic pad serries. Please Help!
Hi, have you tried a smaller layer height just to get it to print? The 75% part isn't critical and is mainly to speed the print up but also to help make defects more critical.
I had a similar problem: stock Ender 3 V2 hot end, but with a 0.6mm CHT nozzle. A layer height of 75% of the nozzle width (0.45mm) at 100mm/s with a 0.6mm nozzle would require 27mm^3/s of flow; way above what this hot end can do. I printed the tower with the above settings but a 50mm/s print speed. It worked (for the purposes of the test) but it was struggling. If I did it again I'd reduce the layer height to 0.3mm to give the hot end an easier time.
amazing... thanks!!
My first layer along with every layer looks awful. Gaps in the filament 6 layers up please help I don't know what else to do.
I have a glass bed and the mesh diagram showing 0.0X for most points however the mesh diagram is not flat and looks distorted in one corner
Thank you!
!! {"code":"key112", "msg": "Move exceeds maximum extrusion (1.200mm^2 vs 0.640mm^2)
See the 'max_extrude_cross_section' config option for details", "values": [1.200, 0.640]}
i get this error
The console codes is made of two parts, one is to set_velocity_limit acceleration, the second is the printer-specific set_pressure_advance test parameters, make sure both are entered.
I once forgot to enter the first command and ended up factory resetting everything only to realize my mistake later on, lol.
Thank you, Ricky! that was the most clear and simple explanation, I've seen!
It helped me to configure pressure advance on my Ender 5 S1 with Sonic Pad connected - I did everything according to your guide:
1. PID tune (bed + extruder)
2. verified E-Step (it was fine)
3. Input shaping
4. Pressure advance
Than I printed ringing tower with full speed 250 mm/s - the print was succeesfull, however I still see some minor ghosting.
My understanding was that Klipper should shape the speed profile disregarding the speed I've set in slicer (PrusaSlicer in my case).
Is it correct?
Or should I still lower the speed in the slicer to avoid ghosting?
Hi, in a way, yes and yes. Klipper will attempt to reach the speed settings you ask it to but it will limit and control the acceleration using your input shaping tune plus any other acceleration settings. There is also only so much the input shaping sensor can do and sometimes some more fine tuning of the resonance compensation is necessary. There is some good information here if you want to learn more: www.klipper3d.org/Resonance_Compensation.html
@@RickyImpey Thank you!
If you don't set the bottom layer to the layer height, then the mouse ears will only be an outline.
Make sure you turn off enable firmware retraction in the Klipper menu if you have added that. plugin.
iv watched every video up to this one and just now seeing "Since recent firmware change, it is necessary to issue a 'restart' command after changing any settings or following any calibration procedures.*Do i have to go back through every step again?
Also is restart command the same as SAVE_CONFIG because that restarts it as well
Ricky what fans and shroud are you using on your sprite extruder in the video? Would you recommend it? Im having trouble with overhangs since the Sonic Pad unless I really slow things down. I'm guessing it's a cooling issue. I mostly print PETG.
+++ I think I’m mistaken I thought that was Sprite extruder!
I run the Minimus Cooler on my E3v2 but currently standard cooling on my S1 Pro with a Sprite extruder. The cooling is the weak part though and needs work. I plan to do something about this soon.
for some reason the extruder motor gets disabled following your guide, do you know what could be the cause of this? I've just received my pad today and all the other vids u made worked perfectly. thx for your time u put in these understandable tutorials anyway!
If you have the web ui open and watch the gcode screen that you enter commands on as it's printing the test piece , you can see what it's adding for pressure advance and if quick , can find the best layer and use the number that's on the screen to get real f'n close , just my 2c , .085 is what web ui said and I ended at .087
what is the name of the sharp corner object you printed at the end of the video?
Every time I try to start the tuning tower print it starts printing the first layer and then gives an error that says that the "move exceeds maximum extrusion" and stops the print. I looked over and watch the whole video again, but nothing works. I basically give up at this point.
These videos are awesome! I’ve been fighting with the sonic pad for 5 hours tonight and I’m back at step 1. Any chance you want to make a video on changing the config file when you add a sprite extruder? I’ve got a Neo max that I put a sprite extruder on. Had it configured perfect with marlin but Klipper is kicking my rear.
I don't have the wiring loom to fit a sprite to my V2 so I can't test it but is it not just a case of setting a different rotational distance and probe offsets? I didn't think they used different board pins but I could be wrong.
@@RickyImpey You are spot on. I got the rotational distance set perfect thanks to your video. Hitting 100 mm spot on everytime now. The probe offsets and extruder offsets are what keep giving me issues. Every example I find online has me probing off the bed. The ones that do probe close have me printing out of center on the bed. That seems to be my last hang up is just finding the right positioning to enter for the sprite.
@@harrison0550 Have you double checked your X and Y dimensions in your config file and your slicer to make sure they match?
Thanks for some great videos. I have followed all up until now with no problem . I have come to slice the tower and get the message unable to slice due to small layer temperature setting ?
any Ideas? using the imported normal PLA profile
This appears to have sorted itself out after re starting this morning?
Yes, this is a new setting with Cura, I believe it's in the cooling section, you may need to make it visible. It confused me for a while too. I believe you need to ensure that it isn't lower than the first layer temperature.
Great material, thanks again for taking the time to share this. I Have an ender 3 s1. I've followed all your videos to this point, but I cannot get this cube to print properly at all at these new speeds (profiles from previous video), not to mention the retraction makes a terrible noise. Every layer is literally missing chunks out of the sides, lots of separation. The only way I initially was able to get it to print is to slow it back down to pre-sonicpad speed of 60mms. So taking a different route I've increased the flow rate to 120%, then 150% which hasn't made any difference.
I didn't have the vibration sensor, so I tried it with both acceleration control on and off, but no difference. Just using esun PLA+. I've ordered a vibration sensor, is it just that it can't print at these speeds without the vibration sensor? I'm happy if that's the case, otherwise starting to feel like maybe there is actually something wrong with the printer
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
OK worked it out with a bit more trial and error. Went back to scratch and whatever I did I must have accidentally messed up somthing as the horrible retraction noise has gone. I've also upped the nozzle temperature by 5% so printing 220 for PLA+ and between that and the retraction issue so far so good, almost perfect in fact! don't even have the vibration sensor yet. Thanks
Thanks for the videos. I’ve changed my pressure advance setting. If I want to redo the test, do I need to set it back to 0?
The code you enter before running the print zeros the pressure advance before then changing for each layer it so you can repeat the process exactly every time.
Question for you is there a code I need to add or delete after I am done this to erase the 2 I placed in to run the test? Secondly has anyone experienced worse print quality since doing this?
Thanks again Ricky for clear direction. I ran this test on my ender 5 s1 and saw clear deteriation on the corners. However, when I ran the test on my stock ender 3 v2, I could see no clear flaws on any exterior walls. Pressure advance is set on default 0. Is this unusual?
Did you use the correct command for the bowden setup on your E3V2?
@@RickyImpey I stopped the print because of initial adhesion problems. And I wondered if I lost my command lines when I restarted. After that attempt I had a bowden tube fail and I'm waiting for a replacement. So I haven't gotten a re-do.
@@haushogg ah yes, you have to enter the last command again before a reprint. That will be it.
WIth my Ender S1 Pro, I did all PA test, all other tests before and after including the speed and etc.. Then I tried to print a model (probably a not very good one) and my extruder started to tear the filament from the the bed. After several unsuccessful trials, I reset everything but I havent been able to print anything since. Changed the nozzle, reset everything, increase, decrease various heat factors, simply does not work. Interesting.
Another great video, I managed to follow through all the steps but perhaps I have missed something as getting a popping sound when printing. It’s not all the time though. I have the sonic pad on a Ender 3 s1 pro. Any ideas anyone?
A popping sound can often be a symptom of moisture in your filament. Do you have a way to dry your filament?> If not, try this: th-cam.com/video/WC3jvuq-uq8/w-d-xo.html
How did he get .4 for his pressure advance the model would have to be 80mm in height. It is not did he mean you multiply by .05 and not .005?
谢谢！
So, found out after dismanteling the extrusion element i went to take a closer look at the motor itself. Does it really does nothing or??? Well yes its moving very fast but back and forth. Bad luck in flashing i thought so i flashed the original creality firmware onto it. Same result. Ok faulty stepper motor so i took exactly a spare one and this one did the same thing moving very fast back and forth. So i prolly somehow burned out the driver? Logic says to look at the last thing you changed before things start going bad. And that is connecting the Sonic Pad. So what i have now is a unusable pad, and a printer that costed me 529 euro.
@RickyImpey Do you have a link to the model being printed at the end of your video?
I get sending the commands - but once it is set do we need to change it back to a default or is it temporary after the test is complete?
Thats exactly what I was wondering myself.
Firstly, a big thanks for you videos, nothing to say just a really clear perfect job!
On my brand new ender 3 S1 pro, i just ran the input shaping and pressure advance test in a row (after all your other test mention in the series in the right order, PID, E-steps etc..)
The test tower was printed perfectly with really straight lines on 0.3 layer hight with no ghosting at all (with a kinda mate black finish with my PLA). After setting the pressure advance (10.68mmX0.005=0,0534 pressure advance value) my calibration cube and benchy (printed at 60mm/s instead of 100mm/s for the tower test and with 0.02 layer hight) looks kinda glassy with some micro ghosting on the lines. But the cube and benchy now have perfect angles.
Do you think i need to run both tests again? is it possible that the sonic pad didnt saved the input shaping test correctly? I can send pictures if needed. Thanks a lot!
The matte vs glossy look is purely temperature related, lower nozzle temperature to have a more matte look, and increase to have glossy look. Glossy make all imperfection more visible. You can go in the config file in the WebUI of the sonic pad to see if the input shaping are saved, look at the bottom of the file you should see a DO NOT EDIT with a #*# [input_shaper] and some value under it. Also make sure you uncheck the 'enable acceleration control' in your slicer.
After the test print do I have to set a command for leaving the pressure advance test mode or is this command only active for the next print and then dissable automatically?
It is only active for the next print it runs, then it is disabled
OK Ricky, help some of us fence riders out. I am capable of adding Klipper to my Ender 3v2 via other means ( additional computer etc) but the ease of the SonicPad is tempting. However, bottom line, do you suggest one over the other (roll my own or purchase Sonic Pad) and if not, why not. Am I lazy? Probably. TY in advance.
If you have the kit and ability to add klipper without the Sonic Pad then save yourself some money. However, if you want the screen near your printer rather than having to have your phone or laptop nearby then the Sonic Pad could be the best option.
There doesn't appear to be an STL file for the tower?
In the very first link,not obvious however
@@dannyg2922 Ah!! Thanks.
I've added a direct link now, thanks
Thanks! After this test, do I undo the changes in the profiles setting, or do I keep them ( eg layer height , infill and printing speeds)
Just hit the reset icon at the top next to the drop down arrow or select a different profile to reset all of the changes, don't keep them.
One question - will it be necessary to repeat the tuning steps for different materials, or will the tuned up settings done with PLA work for PETG , ABS etc as well ? Very usable info om this channel. Creality should bed ashamed to not provide this themselves.
Strictly speaking, yes you would need to tune for every filament but in practice, you'd need to see if there are any issues with a test print. It might not be something you could see.
Once I have done this, if I want to print at a higher speed should I redo the pressure advance test with the speed turned up or will it compensate for it in the firmware?
Do we have to do anything with those commands we enter into our console or do they just override once we've finished this test print?
i only made it to 15mm. could I have other issues with my printer or should I make the adjustment and keep going? my pressure advance setting will only be .075. i have a ender 3 s1 pro.
This calibration is related to the speed which the test is performed (100mm/s). If we want to increase the speed we should run this calibration with different speed right? I printed on 160-170 mm/s after performing the calibration successfully and my print have issues with the corners. All your tests I guess is performed in 100mm/s. Personally I want to pump up the speeds even more.
Haha I just asked the same question. For kicks I'm gonna run a PA test with 200 mm/s and 3500-5000 accel tonight and do a benchy. I'm trying to take these divots out of the corners like you I believe!!
Hello Ricky, question when doing the pressure advance cube to test. do I need to put my flow rate at 100% or leave it as what I have it. I have tried this before and made chance and It seem to have made it worse. for me.
I very rarely change flow so I would do mine at 100%. However, if you can't get good quality and you've tuned rotational distance then use whatever you plan you slice with. It's all about dialing in the best quality for your machine so use whatever looks best if my settings aren't working for you👍
does it have to be 75%? that makes my layer height 0.45mm and my extruder cnnot keep up with the flow rate and just skips at 100mm/s
I did this and my x axis looks amazing but my y axis has gone to s*** any suggestions?
I have followed all the videos starting with the basics playlist and after finishing this pressure advance tutorial i printed a calibration cube. The first few layers are warped and their edges are rough. I am using the creality cura profile and the only thing i changed was the retraction. I have an Ender 3 S1 Pro. Any advice?
After tweaking the initial temperatures most of the issue is gone.
cant get this damn file to stick to my bed
Same here
Do I still need to input a retraction setting? Or do I leave retraction off for the test as it might mess up the flow? Or does pressure advance eliminate the need for retraction at all?
how do I issue the restart command after changing settings?
How do you update the printer.cfg file where it actually saves/updates to the printer firmware? A friend of mine has the sonic pad hooked up to his Ender 5 Plus, along with a new sprite extruder installed. Since he installed the sprite extruder, he now needs to edit the printer.cfg file with new probe offsets and PID settings, but he cant seem to get it to save.
The issue he is having is that when he edits the printer.cfg file via mainsail in the web browser, and then clicks save/restart firmware, nothing actually gets updated in his printer firmware. After he edits and saves/restarts firmware, it still homes off center. In addition to that, the settings he edited in the printer.cfg will reset back to default if he powers the printer and sonic pad off/on. Any idea how to resolve this issue, and actually update the firmware settings?
i cant find the second stl you used to check how the corners turned out , can anyone help
Is pressure advance different on PLA and PETG?
It can be. The only way to know is to test what you want to use.
Hello Ricky
i have been waiting your videos on the sonic pad to set up my,everything was going well until setting up pressure advance
whe i went to to print the square it stop at 99% and displayed !! Unable to parse move 'G1 Z0.2 E' how can i fix this issue thanks
Your end g-code in Cura must have an error in it. Go line by line and make sure that it matches exactly what is in the PDF from Creality. I had the exact same problem and it was because I copy/pasted and it messed up the code.
My test cube comes out with so many waves on it and very flimsy. Nothing like the video. Very stressful after the new sonic pad firmware update