I just replaced two idlers, and the tensioner pullies yesterday with a new belt and alternator. All bolts going into the aluminum are rated at 18 ft lbs per the factory manual. I made sure they were all very clean, used some blue locktite, and went to about 22-23 ft-lbs for a better piece of mind. Putting on a new belt is a mine bender. I did it primarily from below. The belt needs to be positioned before reinstalling the tensioner. The final step to slip the belt on means pulling the belt off the alternator. Then fully depress the tensioner (from the top) and slip the belt over the nose of the alternator. My new belt was tight and I used a wide flat screwdriver to get it over the 8 grove alternator pulley while the tensioner was fully depressed. If you did this every day it would go faster, but it has been 3 years since I did it last. And ++ on regreasing all the bearings. Not sure if this is a good choice but i used Mobilith SHC 100 Red Lithium Complex Grease
on those pulleys with sealed bearings you can, very carefully, remove the seals and re-grease 'em. the key is gently removing those seals. I just had to replace the tensioner pulley AND idler pulley; both were dry as hell. what ever it is they use at the factory turns brittle and gets hard as a rock after a while. Both froze up an chewed the belt to hell an back. I'm 5' 10" and had to use a step ladder to access the engine compartment on a E250 4.6L Econoline Van and what a PITA to work on.
@@snoopy5736 yeah got a friend to go underneath and together we got it in about 10 minutes, he was able to feed it around the fan then up and I fed it back to the power steering. doing it by myself I'd still be there. :}
@@snoopy5736 well I had to replace the belt as it tore itself apart because of the not so hot grease they use on those pulleys from the factory. The tensioner pulley came apart and the idler pulley was frozen, thus the belt ripping itself apart. be advised those 'sealed' ball bearings (wish they were roller types) can be greased with good stuff you just have to be extra careful removing the seals so you can replace them. because of the way a Van is, I had to hang the tensioner with a wire so I could start those three bolts.
I had to use a torque wrench as I didn't have a dedicated tool, it was at least long enough and I could adjust the bit as I had very little room to work with.
I just replaced two idlers, and the tensioner pullies yesterday with a new belt and alternator. All bolts going into the aluminum are rated at 18 ft lbs per the factory manual. I made sure they were all very clean, used some blue locktite, and went to about 22-23 ft-lbs for a better piece of mind. Putting on a new belt is a mine bender. I did it primarily from below. The belt needs to be positioned before reinstalling the tensioner. The final step to slip the belt on means pulling the belt off the alternator. Then fully depress the tensioner (from the top) and slip the belt over the nose of the alternator. My new belt was tight and I used a wide flat screwdriver to get it over the 8 grove alternator pulley while the tensioner was fully depressed. If you did this every day it would go faster, but it has been 3 years since I did it last. And ++ on regreasing all the bearings. Not sure if this is a good choice but i used Mobilith SHC 100 Red Lithium Complex Grease
on those pulleys with sealed bearings you can, very carefully, remove the seals and re-grease 'em. the key is gently removing those seals. I just had to replace the tensioner pulley AND idler pulley; both were dry as hell. what ever it is they use at the factory turns brittle and gets hard as a rock after a while. Both froze up an chewed the belt to hell an back.
I'm 5' 10" and had to use a step ladder to access the engine compartment on a E250 4.6L Econoline Van and what a PITA to work on.
Thanks for sharing!
Taking off the fan shroud is the key, also accessing it from under works well too
@@snoopy5736 yeah got a friend to go underneath and together we got it in about 10 minutes, he was able to feed it around the fan then up and I fed it back to the power steering. doing it by myself I'd still be there. :}
@@moss8448 i try to use a bungee cord to hold the belt if ur not replacing it
@@snoopy5736 well I had to replace the belt as it tore itself apart because of the not so hot grease they use on those pulleys from the factory. The tensioner pulley came apart and the idler pulley was frozen, thus the belt ripping itself apart. be advised those 'sealed' ball bearings (wish they were roller types) can be greased with good stuff you just have to be extra careful removing the seals so you can replace them.
because of the way a Van is, I had to hang the tensioner with a wire so I could start those three bolts.
I replaced mt belt tensioner with a duralast unit and the pulley portion broke off completely.
Haven't had much luck with Duralast lately. Advance Auto likes to push those things.
I noticed you replaced this a year ago, how's the Gates pulleys been holding up for you, any issues?
No issues at all!
By the way, this is a delivery van that puts 30k miles + (a year).
@@e39M5e46M3 Thanks buddy. Much appreciated
@@e39M5e46M3 my vans at 352k its an 03 e250 4.6
What is the size of the socket for the belt tensioner??
10 mm
@@TechBillionaire Had to be huh?
@@snoopy5736 haha, yeah. You lost yours too?
I had to use a torque wrench as I didn't have a dedicated tool, it was at least long enough and I could adjust the bit as I had very little room to work with.
Chingón
Havana moon by Chuck berry