You need the DTI gauge to be perpendicular to the lifter for an accurate reading, the measurements will be off when its set to an angle on the lifter like it was.
Brother, you are a trusting soul. I never assume any marks from the factory are accurate. When you've seen 2 extra millimeters of deck from the factory, you get suspicious of everything they've machined. I set zero on my degree wheel by putting a sparkplug with a bolt welded on the end into the cylinder then rotate to the stop in both directions then split the difference. I also never assume my measurement setup will be measuring accurately, so I check the timing at 40 thou open then 40 thou closed so I can mathematically find lobe center. Open and close numbers are pointless because you can't be certain your lift measurements are accurate, so lobe center is everything. Even if your valve lift measurement is in the tank, as long as it is consistent you can correctly time the cam by setting lobe center where the cam card says it should be. I guarantee you looking at your dial indicator's placement, you were not at the lift you thought you were, and yes, 4 thou ain't 40 thou, and if you want to get picky, 40 thou ain't a millimeter, that would be 39.6 thou. I brazed a crowfoot onto my dial indicator's point so I could have some room to work and get the dial indicator's shaft closer to perpendicular with the bucket's motion, and I work off the edge of the bucket because the shims will tiddly wink unless you're using a shim under bucket setup. I learned all this stuff 40 years ago building road race motorcycle engines. What I want to see is how to turn the crank without moving the degree wheel relative to the crank while the engine is in the chassis and the transmission is bolted up. Was hoping to see some kind of tool fitting over the crank with a big hex on it using the key, but sadly, not here.
Great video, is this required on all aftermarket camshafts? I have some BC 272 cams. Would you just install, measure clearances and be done or degreeing is a must?
What’s your cam card say? Degreeing them will give you a smoother idle. The way I figure it, the people that design cams are way smarter than I am. If they say to degree them, it’s a good idea to do so.
How much did you turn the exhaust side? And if you started with 8 before tdc and then did .040 lift why would it be 2 before tdc? And same same with the exhaust why 58 to start and 47 to finish?
If you look closely I was an idiot and only rotated it over .004 and not .040. I went back and fixed it off camera but didn’t record it since it was taking way longer than it should have with recording/talking. Follow the cam card and you’ll be good to go. 👌
Good eye, Sir!! Short version, I’m an idiot and forgot how to read for a min. I did correct the lift to .040” but didn’t record it. You are correct though on both counts. 🍻👍
Did you get your valve closing to match the cam card after degreeing - mine has an extra 4 degrees of duration - closes at 51 degrees ABDC instead of 47 degrees ABDC?
I appreciate you checking in. 🍻 Things are good here. I’ve been flying a lot pushing for a spot at a regional. Between work, flying, studying and general life stuff there hasn’t been much in the way of free time or cash flow for car stuff. The only car activity I’ve done lately has been filming for 1320 periodically.
No kidding?! That’s awesome! I fly out of COS. I’m hoping to do my commercial CR with Kevin in NM in May/June once I wrap up hours. If I end up flying out of ABQ for the CR I’ll hit you up. 🍻 It would be cool to grab food and talk 2J’s and airplanes for a bit before heading north if you’ve got the time.
It’s interesting you mention that. Lol I was just talking with somebody about this yesterday, literally. Buying the parts and tools to do this kind of stuff is super expensive. Consequently, without consistent view counts or significant sponsorship, uploads become predicated upon saving money to buy parts. Lol Most of these videos are shot after I get off work between 9p-2a. I’d LOVE to finally get this done and get back to driving it. Just need the spare coin to get there. If you have any suggestions, I’m all ears. 🍻👍
The video is awesome, friend. We have launched the 6500K led headlight bulb, would you like to try it? We wanna send it for you to try. Please check your email, hope to hear from you, thanks.
Such a great video! This deserves way more views for the 2JZ community
Thanks brother! Hopefully it helps some people when the time comes to do theirs. 🍻🤘
You need the DTI gauge to be perpendicular to the lifter for an accurate reading, the measurements will be off when its set to an angle on the lifter like it was.
Brother, you are a trusting soul. I never assume any marks from the factory are accurate. When you've seen 2 extra millimeters of deck from the factory, you get suspicious of everything they've machined. I set zero on my degree wheel by putting a sparkplug with a bolt welded on the end into the cylinder then rotate to the stop in both directions then split the difference. I also never assume my measurement setup will be measuring accurately, so I check the timing at 40 thou open then 40 thou closed so I can mathematically find lobe center. Open and close numbers are pointless because you can't be certain your lift measurements are accurate, so lobe center is everything. Even if your valve lift measurement is in the tank, as long as it is consistent you can correctly time the cam by setting lobe center where the cam card says it should be. I guarantee you looking at your dial indicator's placement, you were not at the lift you thought you were, and yes, 4 thou ain't 40 thou, and if you want to get picky, 40 thou ain't a millimeter, that would be 39.6 thou. I brazed a crowfoot onto my dial indicator's point so I could have some room to work and get the dial indicator's shaft closer to perpendicular with the bucket's motion, and I work off the edge of the bucket because the shims will tiddly wink unless you're using a shim under bucket setup. I learned all this stuff 40 years ago building road race motorcycle engines. What I want to see is how to turn the crank without moving the degree wheel relative to the crank while the engine is in the chassis and the transmission is bolted up. Was hoping to see some kind of tool fitting over the crank with a big hex on it using the key, but sadly, not here.
My thoughts exactly, how did he know the piston position?
Can you Show a pic of the Cam card please ?
Dont trust timing marks for actual TDC and look up cosine error.
Ok if you are just replacing your old cam gears and belt with 2 Greddy cam gears and belt, do you still have to do this?
Hello brother, any world cup cover? I don't know where to watch it to be honest
Not this year. I started a new job and still trying to stack vacay time. Hopefully next year I’ll be able to get back at it. 🤞
@@2JZAddict congratulations, okay I understand, i wish you good luck brother
Any tx2k22 upload? I've been waiting last twoo days
Keep an eye on 1320 Video’s channel. I’m shooting for them this weekend. I’ll be top end for rolls tomorrow and starting line for drags.
@@2JZAddict hell yeah 😎
Great video, is this required on all aftermarket camshafts? I have some BC 272 cams. Would you just install, measure clearances and be done or degreeing is a must?
What’s your cam card say? Degreeing them will give you a smoother idle. The way I figure it, the people that design cams are way smarter than I am. If they say to degree them, it’s a good idea to do so.
@@2JZAddict For sure man, thanks
This video will definitely help out a lot
Positive top dead center should be verified at the piston, not a mass produced casting partition............
How much did you turn the exhaust side? And if you started with 8 before tdc and then did .040 lift why would it be 2 before tdc? And same same with the exhaust why 58 to start and 47 to finish?
If you look closely I was an idiot and only rotated it over .004 and not .040. I went back and fixed it off camera but didn’t record it since it was taking way longer than it should have with recording/talking. Follow the cam card and you’ll be good to go. 👌
Can't wait for fire-up.
You and me both! It’ll be great to finally drive this car again. 🍻🤘
Gs1 need to be degree also?
all camshafts. check the cam car from GSC, it will be different for the S1's
Saw you only adjusted the cam to 0.004” lift but the cam card called for 0.040” lift - any reason for that?
Good eye, Sir!! Short version, I’m an idiot and forgot how to read for a min. I did correct the lift to .040” but didn’t record it. You are correct though on both counts. 🍻👍
@@2JZAddict thanks and love the videos - will be degreeing my bc276 cams the same method
Did you get your valve closing to match the cam card after degreeing - mine has an extra 4 degrees of duration - closes at 51 degrees ABDC instead of 47 degrees ABDC?
Just wondering where you've been buddy! Hope all is good your way
I appreciate you checking in. 🍻 Things are good here. I’ve been flying a lot pushing for a spot at a regional. Between work, flying, studying and general life stuff there hasn’t been much in the way of free time or cash flow for car stuff. The only car activity I’ve done lately has been filming for 1320 periodically.
@@2JZAddict ah nice! I know how all that goes, I wish you well in your endeavors! About where are you flying? I’m an ATC at ZAB (Albuquerque Center)
No kidding?! That’s awesome! I fly out of COS. I’m hoping to do my commercial CR with Kevin in NM in May/June once I wrap up hours. If I end up flying out of ABQ for the CR I’ll hit you up. 🍻 It would be cool to grab food and talk 2J’s and airplanes for a bit before heading north if you’ve got the time.
your saying 40 thoou versus 4 thou i think you mean 4 thou which is .004
You are correct. Dumb error while filming. It’s already been fixed.
Nice!
Thank you! 🍻👍
@@2JZAddict Wished I lived in Colorado, I'd throw wrenches around with ya 🍺
Didn't realize how dead this channel got with such slow upload. 🙏👐
It’s interesting you mention that. Lol I was just talking with somebody about this yesterday, literally. Buying the parts and tools to do this kind of stuff is super expensive. Consequently, without consistent view counts or significant sponsorship, uploads become predicated upon saving money to buy parts. Lol Most of these videos are shot after I get off work between 9p-2a. I’d LOVE to finally get this done and get back to driving it. Just need the spare coin to get there. If you have any suggestions, I’m all ears. 🍻👍
I wasn't commenting in support. Nor am I your mommy's breast to be sniveling your excuses for shortcomings into.
The video is awesome, friend. We have launched the 6500K led headlight bulb, would you like to try it? We wanna send it for you to try. Please check your email, hope to hear from you, thanks.