How to do a bit change in the middle of a project on a CNC machine (shapeoko xxl)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 พ.ค. 2019
- One of the biggest challenges I had when learning to use my Shapeoko CNC was doing a bit change in the middle of a project. In today's video, I will sho you how to change your CNC mill so you can complete multiple tool paths on your CNC
I am using a Shapeoko XXL, but this will work for any CNC machine.
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All I had to hear was, "you need to run separate nc programs", change your tools and set new z-zero manually between programs, and rely on the machine or yourself to keep x & y zeroed.
I bought bitsetter to solve this problem...but ur solution is the work of a master, who uses knowledge and what he has at his disposal to get the job done...great job and video...a million thanks...
TRZ I love that CNC machine especially when it is carving everything out. keep those videos coming. Peace brother
I'd like to say thanks for the information. I'm not using the same program as you. But i can definitely do a bit change the same way you did.
I just started recently with my machine and still learning. But one trick I came up with is to take a picture of the x,y,z positions and when changing bits for new toolpath, I just go to the x,y positions and then zero out the z. But a previous commenter stated that he positioning is remembered. So I’ll have to check that out.
Great video this is missed by so many others.
Thanks David!
Very helpful. Thank you!
Great job!! Very helpful, thanks👊🏼👊🏼👍🏼
Thanks Jeff!
What I do is insert a small spot outside of my workpiece (usually toward me centered) as a 5 second tool path so it pauses for the bit change away from my work piece... so far it has seemed the fastest easiest I have found... Great video though, it’s an easy way for sure
I have the xxl and have also found that if you use a drill stop set from home depo you can set up your second,3rd, 4th bit on your first zeroing. When you zero the first bit put bit 2 in, drop router to zero then the bit to the paper like normal and tighten. Then zero the drill stop on the collet nut.
Do this with every bit you have and
At least that way when you're prompted for Tool change it's literally just the plug in the bit and send it (like the software makes it seem to be) and you can produce a quantity much faster more automated.
Also a dab of Loctite and a flat spot goes a long way for the collar to not slide over time ensuring the drill stop is flush against the collet nut.
Great informative video Brother
when you went to the zero position with the v bit did you re probe the corner or just go to work position? because the bit i am changing to is longer than my other bit, the Z will be off if i dont re probe but i am worried it wont probe exactly how it was before and it might go slightly off
If I'm not mistaken you only have to re-zero out the Z axis correct? It should still remember the X&Y even though you used jog. As long as you don't manually move the axis by hand while changing the bit (like if you put side pressure on the router and it slips position).
That is correct
If u set the XYZ with the touch probe with the end mill and run that code (circle), can you then use the touch probe to do the Z with you V bit for the “Subscribe!? Wouldn’t that be a perfect way to do it? I like you method, but it doesn’t work for me when accuracy has to be 100%. Thanks for sharing.
Carbide 3D just released the Bitsetter probe which automates tool length setup. Now it will pause the machine move to the front of the work spares and prompt you to shut the router down and replace the but. Then click next and it will go over and touch off on the bitsetter probe with the new tool to zero its height.
Errr figures lol. Ima have to check that out. Thanks for the heads up Iujon!
That CNC machine is very nice
That is a awesome idea my Brother good one,See you again later much love Bro :)
Thanks brother!
@@ToolReviewZone You Are The Man :)
Haha right back at ya TJ!
Great Video. I do it the same as you.
Thanks Michael!!!
I want do make multe circles with A cross in middle is it posible
Love that table, So jealous!
Yeah I'm busting out some Steelers signs as we speak bro. Love this thing!
CNC KING
Still think your skills got me beat bro!
When my program finishes the first cut the router does not raise up and go to the home position. It just stays in the place where the program finished . Suggestion on what I’m doing wrong
You have to adjust your height limit on the program. If you don't set that, it won't raise high enough
Mine won’t move itself back for a bit change. Making it difficult to change bits. How do I fix this ?
In UGS you could setup a macro to make it move to a predefined position.
Wow your depth per pass is way less than my even automatically suggested. Mine auto set at .092 which is around 3/32 per pass..... every time i carve i am always slowing the feed rate on the fly.
Yeah its really up to how you want to set it up. I like the shallow but faster passes
@@ToolReviewZone i think im gonna give that a try cuz i always feel like its cutting too much
I think the reason the circle was cut in one go is because I think you might have set the depth per pass way too high. Did I hear you say 4? Was that 4 inches or mm?
Probably. It was 4mm
Now they have the BitSetter, which does all that automatically.
Change all M0 commands, after the first, to M6 and use GSender. and you don't need to split into two GCode files.
What does this do?
@@arbjful The m6 command will cause gSender to pause (make sure you have Pause selected in the gSender Tool Change Settings) the program so you can change to the next tool bit and zero it. Hit Resume and the program will carry on carving with the new tool fitted.
@@pw3111 is it possible to do the z offset routine for the new tool bit, during the pause?
@@arbjful yes it is. As long as you have “Pause” set up in the gSender “Tool-change” setting, it will pause when it reads an M6 command so you can change the tool and re zero it. An M0 command basically freezes the jogging controls but the M6 allows you to jog. Hence re zero the new bit.
Where is the bell to ring
Just go to 13:25 for the actual bit change. " zero'd it out', saved you 16 minutes thank me later.
This is what the Carbide Create site recommends. Seems the same as yours. docs.carbide3d.com/tutorials/tool-change/
Lay it down!!
Ratt n Roll! 🤟