Great video! Some of the pitting did look a bit concerning. Being 531 it's only about 0.7mm thick in the centres of the main tubes, so you don't need much pitting before you start to lose quite a bit of strength.
It's may well be plain guage 551 instead of butted. Seat tube internal diamete of 26.8r is usually a good indicator of this. Poking an endoscope into the top and down tubes should confirm.
Media blast the frame make sure it is solid, no holes, prime with high build primer, paint and clear coat. That beautiful 531 frame deserves a second life.
Please!!! After Cleaned everything, You Will have a Nice Original Patina!! Keep Original paint and a good varnish and yo Will have a Amazing frame. Polish all the others parts! Final Result Will be a BEAUTIFUL BIKE.Regards from Brasil!
Did the sort off same thing on a old 1964 triumph bike didn't no what to do with it to so I got a 90 road bike for 50 pounds and put most things on the triumph it took a couple off months to put it all together with a bit of head scratching but it's done I love riding around on it and people ask what it is love it great video mate just took me back when your video came up thanks👍👍
Beautiful old frame, Very CARLTON liked with the over wrapped seat stays and CLAUD/HOLDSWORTH with the curved brake bridge. The pitting in the Steel would be my concern, if like that on the outside what’s the interior going to be like. Certainly a big project with little return . I’ve restored a 1950 HOBBS OF BARBICAN a 1949 HOLDSWORTH LA QUELDA and a 47 CLAUD BUTLER, currently working on a 71 CARLTON FLYER. Lots of money spent purely for the joy of preserving them and occasionally riding them but never to sell.
Well - fun fact - one of the main frame builders at Allin actually came from Claud Butler, Peter Cobb. The potential rust on the inside of the frame is a concern for me too.
@ ah interesting, that would explain that then. I’ve always tired to preserve the original finish but sometimes you can’t. My HOBBS was acquired from a 94 year old gentleman who’d had it for a longtime, him being the second owner. At some point he’d repainted it himself so apart from the enamelled head badge the original finish had gone. So professional repainting and finishing was necessary, well worth it though. I get as much enjoyment seeing peoples appreciation of it as the enjoyment it gives me.
Whatever you decide, I’d love to see how this project comes out. Please don’t abandon it. However I’d be concerned about the strength of the frame if it was my bike.
If it was mine, I'd get off the loose surface rust and then clear-coat the frame, so leaving it patinated but stable. And buy high quality transfers from Lloyd's, they've probably got the correct ones.
@MonkeyShred ...ah yes, good point! the frame would have to be perfectly flat in that area. BTW, do you use Lloyds Cycles (in Kent I think), for their excellent period graphics? I ordered from them recently, and was highly impressed by their transfers. Super website they have too. Cheers!!
I'd treat the frame with rust converter for now, if I didn't fancy the cost of full restoration; that would prevent it getting worse at least, and buy me some time. But my first thought was the gentlest media blasting that would strip it, and a good paint job.
@MonkeyShred It's better to be realistic, I think, cos that is a lovely bike, and it deserves the best. We can't save them all, but maybe somebody with deeper pockets can save this one.
That just needs a light rub down and a clean, give the frame a rub over with ACF50 every 6 months or so and it'll never get any worse. Would be a crime to repaint it imo
@MonkeyShred I prefer patina to shininess tbh, only original once and all that, I think cleaned and polished up it would look just as special as a full repaint, etc
I always have the same dilemma with frames like this, I really want to restore them to their "former glory" or even reto-mod, and it can be done DIY if you take your time and get good quality 4k paint (or at least lacquer) I know because I've done it. But the issue is, in practice their "former glory" isn't always that glorious, and unless it says "Colnago" on the down tube, nobody is going to pay you for the hard work you put in.
The frame is tremendous. It would be sinfull to paint it. Just the lightest of rub downs and a satin clear coat is the max. The problem is the rest of it. The greatest advancement in cycling pleasure in the last 50 years are the compact cassettes with wide ratio gears and STI levers. They make time on a bike so much more pleasurable compared to yeaster years
I have never commented on a youtube video... I own 8 Allin's in varying conditions, one of which, an olive green Stan Butler standard I ride daily. Another Fillet brazed model I fully restored and built up with Shimano 11spd 105. This frame and fork was built by Peter Cobb who was a master frame builder. Allin poached him from one of the larger companies after the war. The Special model was his best work and the seat cluster with the topeyes almost touching is supposedly a very hard feature to pull off. Allin's were my families LBS so I have a particular interest in the marque. Send me the frame and fork and I will restore it for free, (I paint cars for a living) it will be a pleasure. I will take pictures as I go so you have an idea whats happening. If thats the way you decide to go of course. Like you said Allin is one of the best English Frame builders and is definitely worth doing. I dont like to restore anything original but, this has seen better days and needs doing IMHO.
In my opinion it's not worth saving. I'm not an expert or an engineer but too me that's too much rust, I would never feel comfortable that it won't crack after hitting some bump in the road. The thing is there are some fair pits on the outside, but there will also be some rust on the inside of the tube, so is there really enough? Not sure, probably depends on the weight of the load and the road condition, etc. However I do as usual love the video.
Appreciate that thought Bruce. It's something that I've definitely been thinking of too. After all - I did have an 80s steel framed road bike randomly snap on me - that could have just been thousands of miles and the stress point of the downtube shifter bosses though. But the internal rust is still a thought!
Gently remove any loose debris from the frame and wax it. A respray would ruin it. If it's plain guage rather than butted 531 it'll be fine. A 26.8mm seat post diameter is usually an indicator that it's plain guage, but you could always use an endoscope/borescope to look at the inside of the tubes. Give it a clean, polish and full service and assign it to light duties.
If it were me, _if_ it's still structurally sound, I'd daub it with rust converter (which also strips all remaining paint), then fill the pitting with car body filler (taking extra care around those beautiful Nervex lugs), then a rattle can paint job. A primer, colour layer, and then a 2k clear coat will give a decent and durable enough result for a fraction of the cost of a professional respray. As you said, it's kind of a total loss as it sits - full restore will never make its money back, and no one will buy it as is either, at least not for an amount of money that'll make it worth the hassle. I'd keep and ride it myself if it were my size, if not I'd consider calling it a day after primer so the next owner can choose the colour. Would still be some time invested, but only very little in materials, and more of a preservation project for posterity.
Yeah I reckon even at a reasonable £250 it would be like flogging a dead horse. Oxalic Acid is a good call though. I've done that before - just need a big bath of it.
Not too much - luckily all the parts are in good condition so costs would be minimal for a preservation restoration - ie treat the rust and protect it, rebuild the wheels and replace other worn cosumables. I'd probably be looking around £250 to sell
@@florinb4668 Around that yes - I haven't looked at the costs properly but I don't think it would be too much. I do sell on eBay a little bit - not as much as before though
The frame looks to rusty to be safe to ride again. If thats the idea you will need to go deep against the rust, and check the corners. In spanish those frame are callen piped, and the point of those pipes can get some play with time and rust bc the soldature was made of lead, and that promotes the humidity
Please convert the rust with chemicals or steam to stop any further corrosion asap. After that your finishing options are open to your imagination, but stopping the corrosion is definitely step 1. Do have to agree that nothing being seized is a hopeful sign.
Depends how much it owes you but if you don't see it amongst your own collection, I'd Ebay the bare frame and stash the components in your spares hoard. I've got bikes I've spent way too much on and I would struggle to sell - lesson learnt. If you love it though... that's different.
I don't think a build would be too costly if I was to just preserve it and I'm thinking a sale in the region of £250 would be reasonable for it fully working - rebuilt wheels and all but the market is kind of dead right now.
![เปิดคำทำนาย นอสตราดามุส - บาบา วานก้า ปี 2025 คนทั่วโลกต้องเจออะไรบ้าง? | แฉ 11 ธ.ค. 67 [2/3] |GMM25](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/xmTIKWJUMPM/mqdefault.jpg)
That nothing was seized on that old beauty screams 'Save me!' to me hahah
Haha yeah you're probably right!
lol, fully understand why you bought it I wouldn't let such a beautiful lugged steel frame like that walk out of my life either... Hi Torvey!
Yeah it’s a fantastic frame eh and I like how it’s spec’d too.
Those lugs are too cool for someone with a sandblasting unit to pass up !
Sand blasting is the easy part. Respraying is the main trouble and cost.
A bit of a light rub down and then a good clean....keeping all of the Patina and just sorting the mechanicals ❤
Always worth a try isn't it!
Great video! Some of the pitting did look a bit concerning. Being 531 it's only about 0.7mm thick in the centres of the main tubes, so you don't need much pitting before you start to lose quite a bit of strength.
It's may well be plain guage 551 instead of butted. Seat tube internal diamete of 26.8r is usually a good indicator of this. Poking an endoscope into the top and down tubes should confirm.
@linseyyoung1772 Was 531 ever plain gauge? You may well be right but I didn't think it was as double butting was Reynolds's USP really.
Media blast the frame make sure it is solid, no holes, prime with high build primer, paint and clear coat. That beautiful 531 frame deserves a second life.
It does. Media blasting requires a respray though and that’s just not in my budget.
Id just clean, polish, rebuild and preserve. Think it's gonna look great 👍
Could be worth a shot!
Save! 🚲
Worth a try eh
Good timing for me, I have put my summer spec univega sport outside, I'm taking notes for next year.
Good to see Torvi still going too.
She’s doing great 🙂
Very cool I always look forward to seeing your projects!!!
Thanks!
Please!!! After Cleaned everything, You Will have a Nice Original Patina!!
Keep Original paint and a good varnish and yo Will have a Amazing frame.
Polish all the others parts!
Final Result Will be a BEAUTIFUL BIKE.Regards from Brasil!
There's patina and then there's rusty tubes haha. But yes - I'm leaning in that direction
Did the sort off same thing on a old 1964 triumph bike didn't no what to do with it to so I got a 90 road bike for 50 pounds and put most things on the triumph it took a couple off months to put it all together with a bit of head scratching but it's done I love riding around on it and people ask what it is love it great video mate just took me back when your video came up thanks👍👍
Linseed oil the rust and clean and rebuild.
I think that is the option to go with.
Beautiful old frame, Very CARLTON liked with the over wrapped seat stays and CLAUD/HOLDSWORTH with the curved brake bridge. The pitting in the Steel would be my concern, if like that on the outside what’s the interior going to be like. Certainly a big project with little return . I’ve restored a 1950 HOBBS OF BARBICAN a 1949 HOLDSWORTH LA QUELDA and a 47 CLAUD BUTLER, currently working on a 71 CARLTON FLYER. Lots of money spent purely for the joy of preserving them and occasionally riding them but never to sell.
Well - fun fact - one of the main frame builders at Allin actually came from Claud Butler, Peter Cobb. The potential rust on the inside of the frame is a concern for me too.
@ ah interesting, that would explain that then. I’ve always tired to preserve the original finish but sometimes you can’t. My HOBBS was acquired from a 94 year old gentleman who’d had it for a longtime, him being the second owner. At some point he’d repainted it himself so apart from the enamelled head badge the original finish had gone. So professional repainting and finishing was necessary, well worth it though. I get as much enjoyment seeing peoples appreciation of it as the enjoyment it gives me.
Whatever you decide, I’d love to see how this project comes out. Please don’t abandon it. However I’d be concerned about the strength of the frame if it was my bike.
If it was mine, I'd get off the loose surface rust and then clear-coat the frame, so leaving it patinated but stable. And buy high quality transfers from Lloyd's, they've probably got the correct ones.
Hmmm - applying new decals over the rust and original paint - I wonder...
@MonkeyShred ...ah yes, good point! the frame would have to be perfectly flat in that area. BTW, do you use Lloyds Cycles (in Kent I think), for their excellent period graphics? I ordered from them recently, and was highly impressed by their transfers. Super website they have too. Cheers!!
Great
I'd treat the frame with rust converter for now, if I didn't fancy the cost of full restoration; that would prevent it getting worse at least, and buy me some time. But my first thought was the gentlest media blasting that would strip it, and a good paint job.
Yeah unfortunately for me a full restoration would never be on the cards for this.
@MonkeyShred It's better to be realistic, I think, cos that is a lovely bike, and it deserves the best. We can't save them all, but maybe somebody with deeper pockets can save this one.
A frame is only too rusty when you can see inside the frame. Well, anything worse than 531 I'd say a patch of rust is enough for a write off though 😂
When you can see the inside 😂
That just needs a light rub down and a clean, give the frame a rub over with ACF50 every 6 months or so and it'll never get any worse. Would be a crime to repaint it imo
I think a full professional restoration would be amazing given the quality of the parts but for me to repaint it myself - yes - that would be a crime.
@MonkeyShred I prefer patina to shininess tbh, only original once and all that, I think cleaned and polished up it would look just as special as a full repaint, etc
I always have the same dilemma with frames like this, I really want to restore them to their "former glory" or even reto-mod, and it can be done DIY if you take your time and get good quality 4k paint (or at least lacquer) I know because I've done it. But the issue is, in practice their "former glory" isn't always that glorious, and unless it says "Colnago" on the down tube, nobody is going to pay you for the hard work you put in.
I’ve sprayed frames before too and they’ve come out pretty good but not to the quality this frame deserves.
The frame is tremendous. It would be sinfull to paint it. Just the lightest of rub downs and a satin clear coat is the max. The problem is the rest of it. The greatest advancement in cycling pleasure in the last 50 years are the compact cassettes with wide ratio gears and STI levers. They make time on a bike so much more pleasurable compared to yeaster years
Think about getting it shotblasted followed by a single colour powder coat resto-mod. Tickle to Torvi.
Hi Torvi!!!! 😊
I have never commented on a youtube video...
I own 8 Allin's in varying conditions, one of which, an olive green Stan Butler standard I ride daily.
Another Fillet brazed model I fully restored and built up with Shimano 11spd 105.
This frame and fork was built by Peter Cobb who was a master frame builder.
Allin poached him from one of the larger companies after the war.
The Special model was his best work and the seat cluster with the topeyes almost touching
is supposedly a very hard feature to pull off.
Allin's were my families LBS so I have a particular interest in the marque.
Send me the frame and fork and I will restore it for free, (I paint cars for a living) it will be a pleasure.
I will take pictures as I go so you have an idea whats happening.
If thats the way you decide to go of course.
Like you said Allin is one of the best English Frame builders and is definitely worth doing.
I dont like to restore anything original but, this has seen better days and needs doing IMHO.
Oily rag it. Torvy approves.
I think that would be the way to go to begin with.
would you get more parting it out?
Restore that frame immediately! Entertain me! You have the skill. Advance.
Haha thanks for the trust!
I really get interest in that derailleur. If you want le got please let me know
Strip all the paint off it to bare metal. Clean the metal up and then clear laquer the bare metal so it's protected but visible for all to see.
In my opinion it's not worth saving. I'm not an expert or an engineer but too me that's too much rust, I would never feel comfortable that it won't crack after hitting some bump in the road. The thing is there are some fair pits on the outside, but there will also be some rust on the inside of the tube, so is there really enough? Not sure, probably depends on the weight of the load and the road condition, etc. However I do as usual love the video.
Appreciate that thought Bruce. It's something that I've definitely been thinking of too. After all - I did have an 80s steel framed road bike randomly snap on me - that could have just been thousands of miles and the stress point of the downtube shifter bosses though. But the internal rust is still a thought!
Remove Rust + clearcoat and make it a survivor/rat with all components returning on it.
Leaning towards that idea.
Gently remove any loose debris from the frame and wax it. A respray would ruin it. If it's plain guage rather than butted 531 it'll be fine. A 26.8mm seat post diameter is usually an indicator that it's plain guage, but you could always use an endoscope/borescope to look at the inside of the tubes. Give it a clean, polish and full service and assign it to light duties.
If it were me, _if_ it's still structurally sound, I'd daub it with rust converter (which also strips all remaining paint), then fill the pitting with car body filler (taking extra care around those beautiful Nervex lugs), then a rattle can paint job. A primer, colour layer, and then a 2k clear coat will give a decent and durable enough result for a fraction of the cost of a professional respray. As you said, it's kind of a total loss as it sits - full restore will never make its money back, and no one will buy it as is either, at least not for an amount of money that'll make it worth the hassle. I'd keep and ride it myself if it were my size, if not I'd consider calling it a day after primer so the next owner can choose the colour. Would still be some time invested, but only very little in materials, and more of a preservation project for posterity.
Keep alive.
I think so.
Maybe oa bath the frame to get rid of the rust and a clear coat. But for resale i just scrap bikes like that now. Market is dead.
Yeah I reckon even at a reasonable £250 it would be like flogging a dead horse. Oxalic Acid is a good call though. I've done that before - just need a big bath of it.
Restore.
How much you think will cost to do it?
Not too much - luckily all the parts are in good condition so costs would be minimal for a preservation restoration - ie treat the rust and protect it, rebuild the wheels and replace other worn cosumables. I'd probably be looking around £250 to sell
So,restored you would ask £250 for it?
U don't sell on EBay anymore?
@@florinb4668 Around that yes - I haven't looked at the costs properly but I don't think it would be too much. I do sell on eBay a little bit - not as much as before though
oil all the rust clean it and ride it !!
That's what I am leaning towards - a light cleaning, try and remove some of the scale - treat rust and protect with some boiled linseed oil
Ive never seen a 3 speed freewheel.
The frame looks to rusty to be safe to ride again. If thats the idea you will need to go deep against the rust, and check the corners. In spanish those frame are callen piped, and the point of those pipes can get some play with time and rust bc the soldature was made of lead, and that promotes the humidity
Please convert the rust with chemicals or steam to stop any further corrosion asap.
After that your finishing options are open to your imagination, but stopping the corrosion is definitely step 1.
Do have to agree that nothing being seized is a hopeful sign.
Don’t worry. Rust converter will be applied to hopefully stop it rusting further.
Sandblasting the frame + clearcoat?
The whole frame? No not this one. I don't think this one is a bare metal bike type
É mesmo só para encher um vídeo inteiro para mostrar um quadro de bicicleta ..
You must have watched a different video. More than a frame was shown here.
Id keep the original paint ,just treat the rust , please don't paint it
I've already said I won't paint it ;) It'd be a crime for me to attempt it - and cost way to much for a professional
if it is a steal frame why not strip the paint off and put the frame into Varsol bath
Because stripping the paint would lead to a respray and that is definitely not on the cards
Strip the frame respray clean parts and reassemble lovely old bit of histort😊
Im getting ready to do that to my wife's 80s schwinn road bike.
I've already said a respray is definitely off the cards
Flog it for parts
As a last resort
Depends how much it owes you but if you don't see it amongst your own collection, I'd Ebay the bare frame and stash the components in your spares hoard.
I've got bikes I've spent way too much on and I would struggle to sell - lesson learnt. If you love it though... that's different.
I don't think a build would be too costly if I was to just preserve it and I'm thinking a sale in the region of £250 would be reasonable for it fully working - rebuilt wheels and all but the market is kind of dead right now.
Try to sell it as a kit, and let the new owner decide if and how to refurbish.
Always an option!
Please do not use a ratchet as a hammer, the hammer might get jealous.
If not hammer - than why hammer shaped? :)