GNB LiHV Battery 2S 350mAh | 10 Months Later

I made this video on 3/12/2024.
I really like these batteries. I know some are asking if I'm still running these batteries and yes, I still am. They have been very consistent and I don't even put it to storage and sometimes I charge it 5x a day! I'm still getting the same punch and runtime. Please note that I only charge at .7-1.0 amp. Rarely I would use 1.5-2.0 when I need battery asap for a race or when trying to set a fast lap.
Use couple code: TJMAC
Where I bought the batteries: www.hobby-addi...
First video of this battery: • Good and Cheap 2S LiPo...
Please comment if you have any questions. Thanks!
For photos, please check my TH-cam Community page: / @tjaymacrc

[@mfdoomtree3753]

I'm the only guy at our club using these babies...love them! I like them better than the Reflex hard packs. I charge them at 1.2. I always charge them on LiHV for the first charge of the day then back down to Lipo. They always peak at 8.45 when charged at Lipo and feel really consistent from start to finish of the race. Also, you can't beat the cost of these.

[@tjaymacRC]

This is good to know! I've never got mine to charge over 8.41. Thanks for sharing.

[@EMU1]

Small explanation to add... When Lithium batteries are charged to about 80-85% of their capacity, it doubles the cycles that are capable in the pack. Similarly, when the pack is discharged to 20% remaining capacity it doubles the cycles compared to discharging to 0 capacity (3.2v for both LiPo and LiHV). So, in an ideal setup to maximize cycle count and reduce fade on the pack, using a LiHV pack charged to LiPo termination voltage (4.2v /cell), you will get roughly 85% of the capacity of the cell (300mAh out of the 350mAh pack). However, compared to a LiPo 300mAh pack there will be considerably less drop in performance over the cycle and over more cycles. The discharge curve of 80-20% capacity is relatively linear in comparison to the high initial drop in power when going from 100-80%, and 20-0%. So over the run, the pack will feel that it changes less.
Charging a LiPo over voltage (higher than 4.2v) will drastically reduce cycle counts, and could start to feel degradation in performance after as few as 10-15 cycles where capacity drops considerably.
In a simple explanation. Many cell phones now have a way to limit charge to 80% without needing to unplug it. That will double the cycles of the battery and reduce degradation of capacity over time. Similarly, charging the phone when it hits 20% remaining capacity will also increase the amount of cycles that the battery has. Leaving the battery below 20% and above 80% charge level will have a continuous degradation on the cell.

[@tjaymacRC]

Thanks for sharing this Eugene!

[@MrDmill78]

Out of curiosity, what charger do you use?

[@tjaymacRC]

I have 3 chargers: Hitec X2, Hitec RDX1 and SkyRC B6 Neo. I use all of them.

[@DxeNvtsukii]

@@tjaymacRCthese are the chargers you use to charge the batteries that your showing in this video right ?

[@tjaymacRC]

@@DxeNvtsukiiThat’s correct.

[@MultiAp101]

@@tjaymacRCmaybe you could explain how your charging these batteries with your best charger. I’m new to the game and have the Reflex batteries but have not found a good way to charge them.

[@tjaymacRC]

@@MultiAp101 I don’t really take care of my batteries. I figured they’re so cheap I’ll just buy new ones but even after over a year, none of my batteries had slow down on me. I charge them at 1a. I don’t discharge and I don’t put them to storage mode. I just make sure to not over discharge while driving. So around 80 laps, I need to stop and change batteries. Although I have gone pass 110 laps many times and these cheap batteries are still going.
Sorry, I’m no help here but Lipos are a lot better than the AAA NiMH that you won’t have to worry too much about it.
What I do:
-Charge at Lipo Balance 1a.
-Drive up to 80 laps (on 24-28x 16 size track)
-Put away and do the same the following week.