I tried my best to capture the first part of how I paint my CN "Zombies" on this Athearn Genesis GP38-2w. Please let me know how I can improve for part 2.
Thank you Mike. It took me a long time to work up to this but having done a few, it isn't a bad as I thought it would be. Taping off the areas is a good starting point. Understanding that mistakes will happen but they can be painted over takes the pressure off.
Thanks very much Rod. Yup, about 4 hours into this paint job, nevermind the 15 LEDs this engine has. Gotta love the challenge or you wouldn't do it. Take care
Matt. I am speechless. WoW ! Thank you for sharing your technique. Although dunno if I am ready to try a Zombie Draper Taper. I think CN locomotives are in my future. Just for your tutorial.
Well I'm glad you enjoyed the vid. The zombie paint scheme is like many things in life, complicated... until you break it down into its individual parts. That's what I struggled with. I've looked at this loco for over 2 years and never touched it. Then I disassembled the layers and went from there. I needed to build up confidence in my painting abilities first, but I think I'm good with at least trying any paint scheme now. Cheers
Awesome Matt. So always best to have a prototype to follow.... I was going to say Tamiya tape but you answered that. Acrylics to start?, not enamel- enamel takes to long to dry? The pink is basically to represent the engines primer color showing through, right? I literally just did my first airbrushing on Wades warehouse buildings. it went well but I don't have a good place to set-up and no vent. on your next vid, place the text overlay at the top or bottom of the vid so we can still see the application.. we will see in the next vid but you always need to top-coat to seal the colors or can you get away with not? Glad you did the Zombie Paint!! Cheers🍻 Earl
Hey Earl. Good to hear from you. I stopped using dull coat to seal in paint a year ago. I still use it on decals though. If you wait a day you can tape over the previous layer. This was a 4 day process for me. You need a painters mask if you don't have a booth. Plastic particles in your lungs are likely deadly in the long run. Acrylics as the base, oils, powders, etc on top. Will do with the text move on part 2! Cheers
I have an Ahearn's RTR older GP38 CN #4713. It was lashed up to CN's GMD-1 1437 when I first saw them in Burlington GO Yard doing switching. It was love at first sight for the GMD-1! I even did a vid of them. #4713 is what I want to dive into and do this to it. it will be fun and your vids with what Wade has been giving me pointers on should be a good leaning experience! Funny thing is that they both have the same set of numbers!, I'd wonder it CN did that on purpose?. I have to ask wade that...LOL I have #1437 that wade weathered for me and Adam just bought me Waterloo Central #1012 that was originally #1437. I love those GMD-1 Cheers 🍻 Earl
@@mattw9667 It's funny but everybody has a different approach to it. I think it's NSmodeler that I first watched doing airbrushing and weathering. But the just of it is to dive in, make mistakes and get better!!LOL
Awesome tutorial Matt. Love the re-use of the chop saw blade.
Haha, you noticed! We bought a property from a deceased metal worker. I shop there before going to the hardware store. Thanks for watching Troy!
Excellent work!
Thanks Jeff. Appreciate the feedback
Fantastic Matt looks great thanks for showing and sharing with us how to try it or do it. Excellent job have a great evening take care 😎
Thank you Mike. It took me a long time to work up to this but having done a few, it isn't a bad as I thought it would be. Taping off the areas is a good starting point. Understanding that mistakes will happen but they can be painted over takes the pressure off.
Looks fantastic great job
Thanks very much James
love it! great how to :) thanks for sharing this!
Morning Robin. Thanks for watching
great job,CN main line to US is in my back yard and CN have some of those each day for the local
Thank you. Yeah, wonder when they'll all get replaced? For now, they are interesting subjects
Really nice work. Tip: a small pair of channel lock pliers works wonders on the Tamiya caps. Just don't squeeze so hard you crack the cap!
Thanks Bill. Those caps are killing my hands!
That is Brutal, but I love it so far. Thanks for taking the trouble to do the vid, I know how long it takes once videoing has stopped. Rod down-under.
Thanks very much Rod. Yup, about 4 hours into this paint job, nevermind the 15 LEDs this engine has. Gotta love the challenge or you wouldn't do it. Take care
Matt. I am speechless. WoW ! Thank you for sharing your technique. Although dunno if I am ready to try a Zombie Draper Taper. I think CN locomotives are in my future. Just for your tutorial.
Well I'm glad you enjoyed the vid. The zombie paint scheme is like many things in life, complicated... until you break it down into its individual parts. That's what I struggled with. I've looked at this loco for over 2 years and never touched it. Then I disassembled the layers and went from there. I needed to build up confidence in my painting abilities first, but I think I'm good with at least trying any paint scheme now. Cheers
@mattw9667 Thank you Fren.
Good luck in your journey. Have fun and start on a Bluebox! Haha
I would love to know how you make your beacon lights?
I know I've covered it. I think it was in the CN 4762 build.
th-cam.com/video/3QBAKc8s9CU/w-d-xo.html
@@mattw9667ok. Thank you!
Awesome Matt. So always best to have a prototype to follow.... I was going to say Tamiya tape but you answered that. Acrylics to start?, not enamel- enamel takes to long to dry? The pink is basically to represent the engines primer color showing through, right? I literally just did my first airbrushing on Wades warehouse buildings. it went well but I don't have a good place to set-up and no vent. on your next vid, place the text overlay at the top or bottom of the vid so we can still see the application.. we will see in the next vid but you always need to top-coat to seal the colors or can you get away with not? Glad you did the Zombie Paint!!
Cheers🍻
Earl
Hey Earl. Good to hear from you. I stopped using dull coat to seal in paint a year ago. I still use it on decals though. If you wait a day you can tape over the previous layer. This was a 4 day process for me. You need a painters mask if you don't have a booth. Plastic particles in your lungs are likely deadly in the long run. Acrylics as the base, oils, powders, etc on top. Will do with the text move on part 2! Cheers
@@mattw9667 I'll have to dig out my mask from when I did some drywall.
Thanks Matt!
Different kind of mask, get one that filters paint fumes too
I have an Ahearn's RTR older GP38 CN #4713. It was lashed up to CN's GMD-1 1437 when I first saw them in Burlington GO Yard doing switching. It was love at first sight for the GMD-1! I even did a vid of them. #4713 is what I want to dive into and do this to it. it will be fun and your vids with what Wade has been giving me pointers on should be a good leaning experience!
Funny thing is that they both have the same set of numbers!, I'd wonder it CN did that on purpose?. I have to ask wade that...LOL
I have #1437 that wade weathered for me and Adam just bought me Waterloo Central #1012 that was originally #1437. I love those GMD-1
Cheers 🍻
Earl
Nice collection you have going Earl. Wade is a master so you're in good hands
@@mattw9667 It's funny but everybody has a different approach to it. I think it's NSmodeler that I first watched doing airbrushing and weathering. But the just of it is to dive in, make mistakes and get better!!LOL
Exactly. I just wouldn't dive in on a rivet counter! Bluebox, dive away!
You could do this to 4777 or 4775
CN has quite a few options for sure
I think you need to create one for me
Hahaha. When's your birthday?
@ October next year
...so i have time to practice!
@@mattw9667 yes you do
@ you can start anytime, 4777 would look fantastic,
Great work!
Thank you David!