It was a Gates timing belt component kit. It had 68,700 miles on it when the water pump decided to take a dump. I’ve heard multiple stories from other shop others about the failure of Gates. Guys are saying they are dropping in quality.
Thanks a lot. I just installed Aisin TB kit on my 2011 Odyssey. My garage almost convince me to install a Gates kit, because waranty with Napa was better. Yeah right : they will replace components if they fail, but not labor time!! Did you see some coolant dripping before the grinding noise??
I could not see coolant until o took off the lower timing belt cover. So that being said I drilled 2 small holes at the most bottom part of the lower timing belt cover so that if the WP starts weeping again I will be able to see it. It was was such a small leak that the coolant was going down at suck a small amount didn’t even really notice it.
@@bundysgarage I have a 2002 acura tl type s and with 180,000 plus mile the water pump and belt were done at about 80,000 miles. I really don't know what brand they use. They charge about 800. Not the dealer. What brand do you recommend ?
Thanks for the vid,. I tore mine down to the valves and did new valves, valve seals, and all new gaskets and seals. Just in the process of dressing the head for install, looking at addressing all the ancillary brackets. Being as i have this old girl torn down to her nickers at 350K, I figured it's the least I could do for it's life of service lol. I ultrasonically cleaned everything, got rid of most of the corrosion in the front end, mostly consisting of brackets, hardware etc. cleaning, dressing, painting lol. It's dudes like you who make it possible. Without stuff like this, I would have no where near the confidence I do today in my mechanical abilities. These Honda J35's are a fun lot. It's been a walk in the park, especially after having done the cam phazers, oil pump and timing on my F150. I learned new words that day; words that aught not be uttered :| lol . Point being is I've learned soooo much. Thanks. If you look hard enough, there is a full service manual out there. The one I have here is for the 06 to 08 Honda pilot, it's clear, concise, logical and well illustrated. Doesn't look like someone photocopied a crayon drawing on a potato. I can provide specific screenshots if someone needs. Just poke me with what you are looking for. Otherwise, ,ike I said, It's out there. The book is about > 2500 pages. Thanks again for the sauce partner ;) If anyone reading this would like to see more like this, please support this chap.
Here's a trick I used when I was doing cam seals while the head was on the engine. Use 2 drywall screws, and screw right into the seal 180° from each other. You now have 2 points where you can pull the seal out from the engine. It's much easier than using a pick to wrestle it out of position.
Hi Bundy. I have to swap an engine in my 2007 Odyssey. I have done engine swaps in the past, so I am comfortable with the job. The "new" engine has 125,000 miles on it. Would you replace all the seals and o-rings you show in this video and your rear main seal video? Cam and crank seals with the end cap o-ring...rear main seal and the o-ring? I'll also be doing timing belt, valve cover and valve adjustment(I've done those before). Much easier with the engine out of the vehicle. I am nervous about installing new seals and not doing it right and causing a leak. Especially the rear main seal where you have to use the hondabond RTV with that plate the rear main seal sit in. What would you advise?
You have to hondabond around the outside edge of the camshaft end covers, otherwise, it will leak again. I know, because it happened 20k miles after I replaced that o-ring. I ended up removing that cap once more, replacing the o-ring once more. But the second time, I used hondabond, it never leaked again.
I put a light coat on the outer perimeter of the end cap itself, not on the o-ring, enough to squeeze out a thin line of it outside the cover. I used a small brush to smear it on so I don't overload it. The seeping and misting happens between the head and the cap. It was actually causing a big oil mess around that area.
Thanks for Honda videos-great info and well done. I have Honda J35-A6 in airplane using an aftermarket ECU. Engine #1 with 168 hours blew piston #5, Engine #2 with 21 hours blew piston #5. What's with number 5? The metal between the top and middle rings sheered off causing crankcase blow by - oil pressure went from 60 to 90 PSI - any ideas why same piston would fail??
Hello there is a lot of talk about whether the cams can be moved back and forth safely while still being attached to the rest of the engine. Meaning people said valves can bend and/or throw the timing off etc. Can you give some clarity I know you have quite the experience working on the Honda v6 J series.
I've been a loyal follower from every Honda video to your washing machine videos if you recall. Enjoying all your Honda J series videos. Very helpful. Keep them rolling. Artie. Still trying to research a good scan tool with bi directional control that will work well on Hondas. Looking at launch, Autel and even autoenginuity. Any input on the Launch Diagun IV or IV+. I know there Chinese knockoffs trying to find reliable inputs on their quality and performance. Thanks much 👍❤️
I recently replaced timing belt and resealed oil pan and front plate new o-ring on oil plate. After the third day I noticed my oil pan wet with oil. Any suggestions? I did not change cam-seals??? Any comments appreciated.
Let me know how it goes! It’s a great feeling when everything. Goes back together and you fire it up for the first time. One quick side note, make sure you do a valve adjustment on all intake and exhaust valves before starting it.
BundysGarage it took me a few days to finally get it all together and do the valve adjustment. anyways its all done and fixed! idles and drives great! but it is now smoking pretty bad on both head. the smoke is coming from the area where the cats meet the block. i think its coming from the valve covers. nothing out the exhaust. it will start smoking within 1 minute after the car is started. its a white smoke im think its oil. any ideas as to what is causing this?
Not hard. Just pop it out. Don’t scrape the mating surface and then tap in the new one with a big socket. Don’t install it dry, out some grease or oil on it before installing.
BundysGarage So are Chevy 350s. It's the tips and tricks that I like. If it makes an engine better I'm all in. If it's horsepower or cosmetic, I want to learn it all.
Why are YOU making a how to Video ?? just started you video and you greased the o-ring with grease ... not special die electric grease that doesnt SWELL rubber or the special grease that is used for caliper lubrication seals that also doesn't swell rubber .. see where I'm going with this ? You used the wrong grease its not a matter of if it will fail but how soon as that rubber will swell to 5 times the size and the force of the cam moving will tear it .. This is specifically why they don't use petroleum grease for these types of applications. Not only did you inexperience cause you potential issues down the road but any person dumb enough to watch a how to video off someone who is clearly doing something for the first time ? you cause them to break shit as well
Dont believe me ? ask any painter that uses black "rubber" squeegee for applying body putty what happens if you leave the 3 inch squeegee in thinner to clean it and forget it till a few hours later then its 12 inches wide.... grease does same thing to rubber
Wait ? my bad what I said holds true for rubber components on a lot of parts of the car but since the cam seal is designed to keep oil in possibly the seal isnt rubber but something else instead ?
which timing belt kit was on before break down and how many miles on the failed water pump??
Thanks
It was a Gates timing belt component kit. It had 68,700 miles on it when the water pump decided to take a dump. I’ve heard multiple stories from other shop others about the failure of Gates. Guys are saying they are dropping in quality.
Thanks a lot. I just installed Aisin TB kit on my 2011 Odyssey. My garage almost convince me to install a Gates kit, because waranty with Napa was better. Yeah right : they will replace components if they fail, but not labor time!!
Did you see some coolant dripping before the grinding noise??
I could not see coolant until o took off the lower timing belt cover. So that being said I drilled 2 small holes at the most bottom part of the lower timing belt cover so that if the WP starts weeping again I will be able to see it. It was was such a small leak that the coolant was going down at suck a small amount didn’t even really notice it.
@@bundysgarage I have a 2002 acura tl type s and with 180,000 plus mile the water pump and belt were done at about 80,000 miles.
I really don't know what brand they use. They charge about 800. Not the dealer. What brand do you recommend ?
Go with a Aisin timing belt component kit. Or if money is not an issue go with Honda OE parts
I feel you are the good man to show your professional technique. I won't miss any honda repair video from you.
Thanks for the vid,. I tore mine down to the valves and did new valves, valve seals, and all new gaskets and seals. Just in the process of dressing the head for install, looking at addressing all the ancillary brackets. Being as i have this old girl torn down to her nickers at 350K, I figured it's the least I could do for it's life of service lol. I ultrasonically cleaned everything, got rid of most of the corrosion in the front end, mostly consisting of brackets, hardware etc. cleaning, dressing, painting lol.
It's dudes like you who make it possible. Without stuff like this, I would have no where near the confidence I do today in my mechanical abilities. These Honda J35's are a fun lot. It's been a walk in the park, especially after having done the cam phazers, oil pump and timing on my F150. I learned new words that day; words that aught not be uttered :| lol . Point being is I've learned soooo much. Thanks.
If you look hard enough, there is a full service manual out there. The one I have here is for the 06 to 08 Honda pilot, it's clear, concise, logical and well illustrated. Doesn't look like someone photocopied a crayon drawing on a potato. I can provide specific screenshots if someone needs. Just poke me with what you are looking for. Otherwise, ,ike I said, It's out there. The book is about > 2500 pages.
Thanks again for the sauce partner ;)
If anyone reading this would like to see more like this, please support this chap.
Im glad you made a video of this, I figured it was pretty straight forward but people on the Acura forums struggled to describe this simple process.
Here's a trick I used when I was doing cam seals while the head was on the engine. Use 2 drywall screws, and screw right into the seal 180° from each other. You now have 2 points where you can pull the seal out from the engine. It's much easier than using a pick to wrestle it out of position.
Thanks for the tip
Wonder if that will work on oil pump seal???
So long as the seal comes out in that direction and it has sufficient 'girth' to be penetrated by 2 screws simultaneously.
Good information on water pumps seizing. I didn't know they did that I thought they just leaked when they go bad.
Thanks-i had to take cam gear back off-forgot that bracket👍👍👍
Thank you, for giving us great information.
Would have been nice to see how you remove the cam pulley and torque to spec
HondaSolutions I would also like to know. My heads out and replaced stem seals. Now I cannot find a groove to lock it unless I need a special tool
Hi Bundy. I have to swap an engine in my 2007 Odyssey. I have done engine swaps in the past, so I am comfortable with the job. The "new" engine has 125,000 miles on it. Would you replace all the seals and o-rings you show in this video and your rear main seal video? Cam and crank seals with the end cap o-ring...rear main seal and the o-ring? I'll also be doing timing belt, valve cover and valve adjustment(I've done those before). Much easier with the engine out of the vehicle. I am nervous about installing new seals and not doing it right and causing a leak. Especially the rear main seal where you have to use the hondabond RTV with that plate the rear main seal sit in. What would you advise?
You have to hondabond around the outside edge of the camshaft end covers, otherwise, it will leak again. I know, because it happened 20k miles after I replaced that o-ring. I ended up removing that cap once more, replacing the o-ring once more. But the second time, I used hondabond, it never leaked again.
Did you apply a light coat to the inside of the seal or did you put globs around the inside where the seal sits?
I put a light coat on the outer perimeter of the end cap itself, not on the o-ring, enough to squeeze out a thin line of it outside the cover. I used a small brush to smear it on so I don't overload it. The seeping and misting happens between the head and the cap. It was actually causing a big oil mess around that area.
How do I keep the wheel from spinning when I torque the bolt. Is there a tool for that?
Thanks for Honda videos-great info and well done. I have Honda J35-A6 in airplane using an aftermarket ECU. Engine #1 with 168 hours blew piston #5, Engine #2 with 21 hours blew piston #5. What's with number 5? The metal between the top and middle rings sheered off causing crankcase blow by - oil pressure went from 60 to 90 PSI - any ideas why same piston would fail??
Did you use loctite for camshaft bolt ?
Negative
Hello there is a lot of talk about whether the cams can be moved back and forth safely while still being attached to the rest of the engine. Meaning people said valves can bend and/or throw the timing off etc. Can you give some clarity I know you have quite the experience working on the Honda v6 J series.
Could the cam gear seals be replaced with engine still in car ? 07 tl type s
Useful info!
I've been a loyal follower from every Honda video to your washing machine videos if you recall. Enjoying all your Honda J series videos. Very helpful. Keep them rolling. Artie. Still trying to research a good scan tool with bi directional control that will work well on Hondas. Looking at launch, Autel and even autoenginuity. Any input on the Launch Diagun IV or IV+. I know there Chinese knockoffs trying to find reliable inputs on their quality and performance. Thanks much 👍❤️
I have a question why did the oring seals when y replase the it looked like it was one size to big
What?
I recently replaced timing belt and resealed oil pan and front plate new o-ring on oil plate. After the third day I noticed my oil pan wet with oil. Any suggestions? I did not change cam-seals??? Any comments appreciated.
Why is the new camshaft seal brown, while the old one is black?
Guess Honda changed manufacturers. The vehicle is 17 years old.
Cuz it's been touching oil for so long that it turned black! :P
I took my head to go get machined and he had to take off the timing belt pulley. could I lose timing whenever he puts it back on? its a j32 head
No the pulley and cam are “keyed” so it can only go back on one way, so you will not lose the timing mark.
BundysGarage thanks man. im putting it back together today. should be done this afternoon
Let me know how it goes! It’s a great feeling when everything. Goes back together and you fire it up for the first time. One quick side note, make sure you do a valve adjustment on all intake and exhaust valves before starting it.
BundysGarage will do!
BundysGarage it took me a few days to finally get it all together and do the valve adjustment. anyways its all done and fixed! idles and drives great! but it is now smoking pretty bad on both head. the smoke is coming from the area where the cats meet the block. i think its coming from the valve covers. nothing out the exhaust. it will start smoking within 1 minute after the car is started. its a white smoke im think its oil. any ideas as to what is causing this?
Nice video!
How hard is this to do with the engine in the car? Like as part of a timing belt job?
Not hard. Just pop it out. Don’t scrape the mating surface and then tap in the new one with a big socket. Don’t install it dry, out some grease or oil on it before installing.
@@bundysgarage cuál es el torque de apriete del tornillo del centro del árbol de levas?
One leftover wire😎im sure it goes to that clip but my clip is empty😜 gona have to go see what ive forgotten😎
The more cars get more complexed. The more I want a Honda.
Honda’s and Toyota’s are very easy to work on
BundysGarage So are Chevy 350s. It's the tips and tricks that I like. If it makes an engine better I'm all in. If it's horsepower or cosmetic, I want to learn it all.
Tanks great easy
Well yeah, I would do this if I had my engine out of the car.
Why are YOU making a how to Video ?? just started you video and you greased the o-ring with grease ... not special die electric grease that doesnt SWELL rubber or the special grease that is used for caliper lubrication seals that also doesn't swell rubber .. see where I'm going with this ? You used the wrong grease its not a matter of if it will fail but how soon as that rubber will swell to 5 times the size and the force of the cam moving will tear it .. This is specifically why they don't use petroleum grease for these types of applications. Not only did you inexperience cause you potential issues down the road but any person dumb enough to watch a how to video off someone who is clearly doing something for the first time ? you cause them to break shit as well
Dont believe me ? ask any painter that uses black "rubber" squeegee for applying body putty what happens if you leave the 3 inch squeegee in thinner to clean it and forget it till a few hours later then its 12 inches wide.... grease does same thing to rubber
Wait ? my bad what I said holds true for rubber components on a lot of parts of the car but since the cam seal is designed to keep oil in possibly the seal isnt rubber but something else instead ?