Nice work on the buggy. I have the vw front and 2x3 on back so I only get about 12 inches travel. Your videos have inspired me to re design. Will like to have your set up . Thanks for the great videos
Good work! Read through some of these comments and realised you may be re-working some of your suspension. I'm willing to bet there's a yoke with the spline count, diameter, and u-joint size you need that's available in a factory or aftermarket application off the shelf. Just might take some digging.
You are absolutely correct. Although this suspension is working great, of course I need to make another that is bigger and badder. ;-) I'm working on the front right now. But gathering parts for the rear. And I'm doing exactly what you said. Doing a deep scour of the web to find a yoke that will fit the new hub assemblies and have a U joint at the other end. This will hopefully be stronger and have less welding. Thanks for the comment!
Hi Doug, just a thought could you put a rubber or urethane coupler from axles to transmission to ease the torque? also that would give the trans time to catch up to axle. Just a thought.
That's not a bad idea. Some AWD cars used to use a viscous coupling. But that wouldn't work here. Thanks for the idea though. If I can think of a way to do something like that I will. It would be great to soften the blows to the transaxle.
Nice job I've been running beefed up stock arms with type 2 CV joints seems to work fine would raced prepped 934 CV and some race arms been cheaper plus less things to break
How do you keep from granading the Transmissin? What is your “easy fix weak link?” I understand in another video you explained that your running a stock bus trans that you had rebuilt. Weaker clutch that has a little give??
The weak link is my foot on the clutch pedal. And letting off the gas when I feel the tranny unloading over eneasy terrain. I'm not kidding, with this setup if I let her rip the differential housing will most likely let loose. So in short I baby her when needed. Wish I had a better answer....
Before I switched it to A Arm it had a set of trailing arms that I had made for it. They were basically 3x2 trailing arms with a straight pivot. The straight pivot was key. I was not a fan of the camber change on the stock setup trailing arms.
Whats the adapter flange part number for those and do you happen to know if they make them for type 1 flanges . I've been wanting to make some of these myself but having a hard time finding them.
That adaptor is made by Drivelines NW Part # HS 3102-86 I paid $48 each. It bolts right onto a type 2 flange. I'm not aware of any decigned for a type 1 flange. Hope that helps and good luck with the project.
For being done by hand it's really true, but not perfect. If this was a driveshaft this would not work. It would be to out of balance. But it's an axle not a driveshaft. So it spins at tire RPM, which compared to regular driveshafts, is really slow. I have about 700 miles on these now and even at 60mph they look fine and I don't feel any vibs from them.
I didn't balance it. I suppose I did say screw it. 😁 But remember in this application it's an axle, not a driveshaft. So it's spinning 5.37 times slower than a driveshaft would. 5.37 is my R&P. There are no vibrations I can feel.
drive.google.com/drive/folders/1lryaC5lcM3sBJkxIujj82SkGArNbV4B_ That has the driveshaft flanges on it. They bolt right up to a type 2 CV flange. The rest of the parts came from a 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Front and rear driveshafts. Wranglers and Cherokees from around those years have pretty similar driveshafts. So lots to choose from in junkyards.
The components for this driveshaft came from a 1998 Jeep Cherokee front and rear driveshafts. I cut them up and welded the pieces back together the way I needed them.
Enjoying all your work. However seems you didn't preheat before your weld. Stubs are at best 4140 and at worst 4340. Lots of preheat 350 and post heat 300-400 an allowed to cool very slowly. Totally possible but I would use 71m dualshield from lincoln instead of (assuming) er70s-6. Love your vids!
babcockcopper, You are correct, I did not preheat with torch. As you know you can't just jump in and weld something like this. It will stress the welds and crack them, which it did to the initial tacks. What I did was make some tacks to hold it in position. Then I did some stitches. Some of these held some were cracking. Then I make a small weld all the way around. The small weld all the way around is for preheating. Then I make the final weld all the way around with quite a bit of heat and filler. Then I set it to cool on its own. Seems to hold, I've used this technique before. Didn't go over any of this in the video as I don't really recommend it, it's a bit hillbilly. Guess I'll see when she's up and running. I did use 70S-6 for filler, thanks for the tip on the 71m. I'll ask them about that at the weld shop. Thanks for the comment and info, let me know if you see anything else that you think I could reasonably do better.
I am going to build one myself and I can assure you mine will likely be more hillbilly... I enjoy your vids very much. I only commented as I have built many custom yokes and drive shafts for heavy equipment and mining operations. I like your approach and it shows to aspiring young people that you dont have to have all the latest and greatest tools to do some really nice work and problem solving.
The axles originally came out of a 1995ish Jeep Grand Cherokee. The stub axles started life as micro stubs from Latest rage before I started cutting things up.
@@DougBugBuilder yeah well I was looking for like the adapter to the transaxle. I feel I could do it but i feel that that first connection would need to spot on you know what I mean. The shop said bring it over we'll get it mated up thank you for your replies and videos you help me a ton on my sandrail you're basically building it without touching it
@@DaFonz29 If you look in my build specs in the shared folder I do have the model number of the adaptor I used. That might help. It bolts right up to a type 2 CV flange. If you can't find it let me know and I'll dig up the part number.
Oldhawkins, They might, or might not. Because they are after the transaxle they only spin at tire rotation RPM. So at 60mph they will be spinning about 600rpm. But thanks for the heads up. Once the bug is up and running I will look into having them balanced should I decide to keep them.
I was tested by torture, even though not allowed to test GOD every thing they do every way max effort is ungodly sick demonic shit, ck pay them back GOD 100 fold or 1000 fold what they sowed in hell & darkness.
This guy is the real deal, good job sir !!!
Thanks Buddy!
Nice work on the buggy. I have the vw front and 2x3 on back so I only get about 12 inches travel. Your videos have inspired me to re design. Will like to have your set up . Thanks for the great videos
Cali Coca, sounds like a cool buggy! Thanks for the kind words. Good luck with your re-build!
comment 59: looks like a great suspension control arm angles setup, super 2x strong w/full range.
Thanks!
THANK YOU
You are welcome!
Good work! Read through some of these comments and realised you may be re-working some of your suspension. I'm willing to bet there's a yoke with the spline count, diameter, and u-joint size you need that's available in a factory or aftermarket application off the shelf. Just might take some digging.
You are absolutely correct. Although this suspension is working great, of course I need to make another that is bigger and badder. ;-)
I'm working on the front right now. But gathering parts for the rear. And I'm doing exactly what you said. Doing a deep scour of the web to find a yoke that will fit the new hub assemblies and have a U joint at the other end. This will hopefully be stronger and have less welding.
Thanks for the comment!
Hi Doug, just a thought could you put a rubber or urethane coupler from axles to transmission to ease the torque? also that would give the trans time to catch up to axle. Just a thought.
That's not a bad idea. Some AWD cars used to use a viscous coupling. But that wouldn't work here. Thanks for the idea though. If I can think of a way to do something like that I will.
It would be great to soften the blows to the transaxle.
Nice job I've been running beefed up stock arms with type 2 CV joints seems to work fine would raced prepped 934 CV and some race arms been cheaper plus less things to break
Less things to break, but not cheaper. I got these parts from the junkyard. So the parts investment for these was really low.
Just Fricking Awesome!!!
lol, Thanks man.
or should I ask where did you get that u joint axle
How do you keep from granading the Transmissin? What is your “easy fix weak link?” I understand in another video you explained that your running a stock bus trans that you had rebuilt. Weaker clutch that has a little give??
The weak link is my foot on the clutch pedal. And letting off the gas when I feel the tranny unloading over eneasy terrain. I'm not kidding, with this setup if I let her rip the differential housing will most likely let loose. So in short I baby her when needed. Wish I had a better answer....
where did you get the u joint adapters ? I want those for my 68 bug
What was the other setup before? I'm looking to build a set of arms like it for my buggy
Before I switched it to A Arm it had a set of trailing arms that I had made for it. They were basically 3x2 trailing arms with a straight pivot. The straight pivot was key. I was not a fan of the camber change on the stock setup trailing arms.
Whats the adapter flange part number for those and do you happen to know if they make them for type 1 flanges . I've been wanting to make some of these myself but having a hard time finding them.
That adaptor is made by Drivelines NW
Part # HS 3102-86
I paid $48 each.
It bolts right onto a type 2 flange. I'm not aware of any decigned for a type 1 flange.
Hope that helps and good luck with the project.
What type of telescopic arrow did you use?
What kind of car? 1:27
Most of the parts I used to make these axles were taken from Jeep Grand Cherokee's front driveshafts. Like late 90's early 2000's models.
how true was it after welding? wont it wobble?
For being done by hand it's really true, but not perfect. If this was a driveshaft this would not work. It would be to out of balance. But it's an axle not a driveshaft. So it spins at tire RPM, which compared to regular driveshafts, is really slow. I have about 700 miles on these now and even at 60mph they look fine and I don't feel any vibs from them.
@@DougBugBuilder I was wondering the same does it not wobble the car itself
@@DaFonz29 No it doesn't, at least not that I can feel.
How do you go about balancing it? Do you just say screw it? Is there any vibrations because of it?
I didn't balance it. I suppose I did say screw it. 😁 But remember in this application it's an axle, not a driveshaft. So it's spinning 5.37 times slower than a driveshaft would. 5.37 is my R&P. There are no vibrations I can feel.
Doug Bug lol okay, thank you. I’m getting ideas and well ideas for now😬😃
What are the drive shafts out of. All so do you have a parts list. Of this project
drive.google.com/drive/folders/1lryaC5lcM3sBJkxIujj82SkGArNbV4B_
That has the driveshaft flanges on it. They bolt right up to a type 2 CV flange.
The rest of the parts came from a 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Front and rear driveshafts. Wranglers and Cherokees from around those years have pretty similar driveshafts. So lots to choose from in junkyards.
you should like put a parts list name brand price. thanks
what drive shaft are you using there?
The components for this driveshaft came from a 1998 Jeep Cherokee front and rear driveshafts. I cut them up and welded the pieces back together the way I needed them.
Enjoying all your work. However seems you didn't preheat before your weld. Stubs are at best 4140 and at worst 4340. Lots of preheat 350 and post heat 300-400 an allowed to cool very slowly. Totally possible but I would use 71m dualshield from lincoln instead of (assuming) er70s-6. Love your vids!
babcockcopper, You are correct, I did not preheat with torch. As you know you can't just jump in and weld something like this. It will stress the welds and crack them, which it did to the initial tacks. What I did was make some tacks to hold it in position. Then I did some stitches. Some of these held some were cracking. Then I make a small weld all the way around. The small weld all the way around is for preheating. Then I make the final weld all the way around with quite a bit of heat and filler. Then I set it to cool on its own. Seems to hold, I've used this technique before. Didn't go over any of this in the video as I don't really recommend it, it's a bit hillbilly.
Guess I'll see when she's up and running. I did use 70S-6 for filler, thanks for the tip on the 71m. I'll ask them about that at the weld shop.
Thanks for the comment and info, let me know if you see anything else that you think I could reasonably do better.
I am going to build one myself and I can assure you mine will likely be more hillbilly... I enjoy your vids very much. I only commented as I have built many custom yokes and drive shafts for heavy equipment and mining operations. I like your approach and it shows to aspiring young people that you dont have to have all the latest and greatest tools to do some really nice work and problem solving.
What kind of axles are those?
The axles originally came out of a 1995ish Jeep Grand Cherokee. The stub axles started life as micro stubs from Latest rage before I started cutting things up.
awesome man thank you.
I need these bad for my porsche 996 transaxle
Yeah they've been working pretty good. And they go 40 degrees.
@@DougBugBuilder I couldn't find any online. I found a shop to make me some. Hopefully they're not super expensive lol
@@DaFonz29 I made these with parts from the junkyard. But if you give a shop your specs they should be able to fab up a pair for you. Good luck.
@@DougBugBuilder yeah well I was looking for like the adapter to the transaxle. I feel I could do it but i feel that that first connection would need to spot on you know what I mean. The shop said bring it over we'll get it mated up thank you for your replies and videos you help me a ton on my sandrail you're basically building it without touching it
@@DaFonz29 If you look in my build specs in the shared folder I do have the model number of the adaptor I used. That might help. It bolts right up to a type 2 CV flange. If you can't find it let me know and I'll dig up the part number.
song name though?
Those shafts have to be checked for run out and balanced or you will get severe vibration that will destroy your u-joints or worse.
Oldhawkins, They might, or might not. Because they are after the transaxle they only spin at tire rotation RPM. So at 60mph they will be spinning about 600rpm. But thanks for the heads up. Once the bug is up and running I will look into having them balanced should I decide to keep them.
comment 59: not many ppl using bugs bc none to b had w/ quality base needed & no comforts either. 2/2/21' 9;11/3:50 am real time
I was tested by torture, even though not allowed to test GOD every thing they do every way max effort is ungodly sick demonic shit, ck pay them back GOD 100 fold or 1000 fold what they sowed in hell & darkness.